MA. Vesna Srnić

ContentsContents

A brief history of photographyA brief history of photography Agency “Magnum”Agency “Magnum” Fashion photographyFashion photography ““High-fashion model look”High-fashion model look” Erotic photographyErotic photography Photography as a part of installationPhotography as a part of installation

A brief history of A brief history of photographyphotography Invented in 1839 Invented in 1839

(daguerrotype)(daguerrotype) Photorealism: artists Photorealism: artists

almost “lost their jobs” almost “lost their jobs” (photo.portraits-quicker, (photo.portraits-quicker, cheaper)cheaper)

1920´s photography 1920´s photography became creative mediabecame creative media

Laslo Moholy-Nagy Laslo Moholy-Nagy imports it at “Bauhaus” imports it at “Bauhaus” (art school, Germany)(art school, Germany)

Effort-experimental and Effort-experimental and abstract visual abstract visual expressionexpression

Photomontages Photomontages creators:creators:

Kurt Schwiters, El Kurt Schwiters, El Lissitzky, Willi Lissitzky, Willi Baumeister, Max ErnstBaumeister, Max Ernst

Man Ray makes Man Ray makes photograms and uses photograms and uses solarizationsolarization

Henri Cartier-Bresson, “Place de l'Europe. Henri Cartier-Bresson, “Place de l'Europe. Gare Saint Lazare”, Paris, 1932 Gare Saint Lazare”, Paris, 1932 (cover photo from the book “On Photography”, Farrar, Straus & (cover photo from the book “On Photography”, Farrar, Straus & Giroux, New York, 1977)Giroux, New York, 1977)

1940´s and 50´s: pure 1940´s and 50´s: pure photography and photography and naturalism (Bauhaus)naturalism (Bauhaus)

1960´s Robert 1960´s Robert Rauschenberg creates Rauschenberg creates complex combined complex combined technicstechnics

Interventions: Interventions: scratching and scratching and painting on emulsion; painting on emulsion; colouring negatives; colouring negatives; solarisation;solarisation; christalisationchristalisation

Combined technics Combined technics and practice of and practice of conceptual and post-conceptual and post-conceptual age (1970conceptual age (1970´s and 80´s)´s and 80´s)

Željko Jerman, interventions on photo paper, 1975

Agency “Magnum”Agency “Magnum”

Huge influence on Huge influence on contemporary contemporary photography:”Magnumphotography:”Magnum””

(US)(US) -Edward Weston -Edward Weston

(“Pepper”,1930), Henri (“Pepper”,1930), Henri Cartier Bresson, Robert Cartier Bresson, Robert Capa, David SeymourCapa, David Seymour

Documentary photo., Documentary photo., still nature, portraits, still nature, portraits, landscapeslandscapes

E.Weston,”Pepper”,1930E.Weston,”Pepper”,1930(Susan Sontag, photo from the book “On Photography”, Farrar, Straus & Giroux, New York, 1977)

Fashion photographyFashion photography

Richard Avedon,Irving Richard Avedon,Irving Penn (tend to atelier Penn (tend to atelier or studio ambience)or studio ambience)

After 1945 in US: After 1945 in US: Englishmen introduce Englishmen introduce natural ambience, and natural ambience, and gather around gather around “Vogue” magazine-“Vogue” magazine-Helmuth Newton, Helmuth Newton, David Montgomery, David Montgomery, David Bailey David Bailey

Richard Avedon: “Dovima with elephants”, Richard Avedon: “Dovima with elephants”, Evening dress by Christian Dior, Paris, 1955Evening dress by Christian Dior, Paris, 1955(photo from http://www.artnet.fr/)

““High-fashion model look”High-fashion model look”

Fashion photograph Fashion photograph seeks: transformation, seeks: transformation, acting ability and acting ability and photogenie (mental photogenie (mental picture as autoerotic picture as autoerotic capacity)capacity)

Top models: Linda Top models: Linda Evangelista, Naomi Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Christy Campbell, Christy Turlington, Cindy Craford, Turlington, Cindy Craford, Claudia SchifferClaudia Schiffer

Advertisment Advertisment photography very often photography very often includes fashion, erotics includes fashion, erotics and humorous aspectsand humorous aspects Christian Dior,Christian Dior,

““Flamenco”, 2003Flamenco”, 2003

(model: Adina Fohlin)(model: Adina Fohlin) (http://www.vogue.co.uk)

• Elie Saab, Elie Saab, ““Vogue”, 2003Vogue”, 2003 (model: Karolina (model: Karolina Kurkova)Kurkova) (http://www.vogue.co.uk)

/www.vogue.co.uk//www.vogue.co.uk/

The best creators and fashion houses:The best creators and fashion houses:

Christian Dior, Calvin Klein, Christian Christian Dior, Calvin Klein, Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurant, Donna Karan, Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurant, Donna Karan, Viviane Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Viviane Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Gucci, Givenchy, Rudolph Valentino,Gianni Gucci, Givenchy, Rudolph Valentino,Gianni Versace, Giorgio Armani, Chanel, Prada Versace, Giorgio Armani, Chanel, Prada itditd..

Contemporary Contemporary photography: stresses photography: stresses sexuality as total sexuality as total denudenessdenudeness

Not as Nude any Not as Nude any more, it is without more, it is without emphasised emphasised proportionsproportions and and transcendence, just transcendence, just as nakedness, sex as nakedness, sex affiliation, it affiliation, it emphasises one`s emphasises one`s own sex favorisation own sex favorisation

• Stephan Lupino: COCO, 1989

Erotic photographyErotic photography

(Sexualy confused person) (photo: Courtesy of the Artist)

• Croatian Croatian "Mapplethorpe", the "Mapplethorpe", the world famous world famous photographer Stephan photographer Stephan Lupino: "Tina & fish" Lupino: "Tina & fish" (1995)- is also a (1995)- is also a "camp", because Tina "camp", because Tina wears glass bra, two wears glass bra, two circular aquariums with circular aquariums with fish, but without irony, fish, but without irony, here the woman is here the woman is simply eroticly feminine simply eroticly feminine and selfsufficient.and selfsufficient.

Stefan Lupino: “Tina&Fish”, Stefan Lupino: “Tina&Fish”, 1995.1995.

Photography as a part of Photography as a part of installationinstallation

Ambiguity of woman Ambiguity of woman individuum is artisticly individuum is artisticly presented in Croatian presented in Croatian artist Vlasta Delimar`s artist Vlasta Delimar`s opus (installation “No opus (installation “No name", 1993) name", 1993)

Personal appearance Personal appearance strenghtens her not strenghtens her not only as sexualy only as sexualy conscious artist, but as conscious artist, but as mother, lover,wife, mother, lover,wife, housewife, saint as housewife, saint as well...well...

Installation "No name", 1993Installation "No name", 1993( mirror, photography,paint, textile) (Photo: Courtesy of the Artist)