“I like to spend some time in Mozambique.The sunny sky is aqua blue,

and all the couples dancing cheek to cheek.It’s very nice to stay a week or two.”—Mozambique, Bob Dylan, 1976

Mozambique came to Dublin on a drizzly, dreich day, crackling through the transistor radio permanently tuned to Radio Caroline in the bedroom I shared with my sisters. The hypnotic drawl of Bob Dylan told the tale of a magical land where people fell in love on a sunny beach. I had only the vaguest idea of where this beautiful tropical paradise of ‘aqua blue skies’ might be, but I knew I wanted to be there someday. Finally, last year, that

day came and I touched down on the beautiful island of Benguerra after an exhilarating helicopter flight over the turquoise sea from the coastal African town of Vilanculus.

Edna O’Brien asked for a vault of very fine wines, Christy Moore opted for the Uillean Pipes and Graham Norton requested a mirror. Fans of the BBC’s Desert Island Discs will recognise that these of course were the luxury items the prospective castaways

on a mythical deserted island were allowed to bring with them. Me, I opted for a Canon SX60 Powershot to capture the unspoilt perfection of a true desert island where nothing was expected or needed other than to stop the clock and soak up the sensory feast of sun, sea, and sky. I lost time transfixed by the blood red sunsets, the ebb and flow of the Indian ocean and the many shades of blue from the palest jade to the steely cobalt beyond the reef. The bleached white beach – pristine save for my footprints – magnified the feeling of aloneness at Benguerra, even though a five-minute walk would bring me to the library and lounge where fellow humans were always to be found. Most appeared to be there just to cater to whatever whim

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Norah Casey ventures to the beautiful island of Benguerra for

sea safaris, castaway picnics, whale watching and a voyage to

the deserted Paradise Island that inspired Bob Dylan.

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Idyllic waterfront dining

Blue on blue – paradise waters

Feeling spoilt, with every whim catered for

my chilled out and uncluttered mind desired; an ice-cold glass of Chardonnay, a welcome shade to escape the midday sun or a leisurely chat with Thys, the funny, charming man in charge. This is a level of bliss often promised in the glossy travel brochures, but rarely experienced.

I have been a fan of travel firm AndBeyond for a long time so when I heard the company had acquired and renovated this former fishing lodge a couple of years ago I had it firmly on the bucket list. Benguerra is the second largest island in the Bazaruto Archipelago and is part of a protected marine-conservation area. Compared to other island retreats, Benguerra is different in that this little corner of AndBeyond paradise is nestled in among a thriving island population; fishermen head out in the early morning and late evening and locals scour the beach when the tide is out for mussels and razor clams. Although still quite small, it is bigger than most island escapes at seven miles by three and a half miles and mixing with the local community is a must to get a sense of island life.

The jaw-dropping beauty of mother nature, with a helping hand from the exceptional staff at Benguerra, provides activities at the resort. Our days were packed with underwater sea safaris while snorkelling over the majestic coral and diving beneath the waves to hear the sonic calls of the dolphins as they swam

in circles around the boat. We ventured out further into the ocean on the dive boat one day and after a couple of hours shrieked with excitement when we spotted our first of many humpback whales break the surface as they soared upwards before splashing back into the ocean, their distinctive tail fins slapping the water. It was a truly wondrous and unforgettable experience, watching these magnificent, acrobatic mammals nearing the end of their annual migration from Antarctica to the Indian Ocean for the mating season. The ethereal oceanic symphony of the male whales could be heard faintly above the thrashing and blowing of the female herd. My camera captured the moments but it’s impossible to describe the feeling of standing on a tiny boat in this vast expanse of ocean with a front row seat to watch these ancient sea giants. What I particularly love about the ethos of AndBeyond is its commitment to the environment and local communities. Benguerra Island Lodge supports the Oceans Without Borders initiative which protects endangered marine life. In these waters, as well as the whales and the dolphins, Africa’s

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last sustainable population of the rare dugong can be found along with a vulnerable ecosystem that stretches to Somalia. It’s good to know that this part of the coastline is being protected and supported.

Early one morning we took a longer journey on the lodge’s catamaran, one I had dreamed about since childhood. We headed to the deserted island of Santa Carolina where Bob Dylan wrote that famous song and was rumoured to have played the piano in a palatial hotel where the jetset partied in the sixties. The island was renamed Paradise Island and back in the day boasted 250 rooms, a private airstrip and its own chapel. The hotel was abandoned in 1973 when the owner, fearing for his life, fled when the country achieved independence and was on the cusp of a bloody civil war. Now the ruins of faded glory echo with the ghosts of laughter, music and ‘couples dancing cheek to cheek’ beneath a sky of aqua blue. All that’s left are the skeletal remains of what must have been a stunning Art Deco ballroom with the pillars still standing and a crumbling staircase

leading to nowhere. Graffiti adorns the walls of the former grand hotel and the hollowed-out rooms and overgrown gardens are all that’s left of the splendour of its hay day. It was one of the highlights of our trip to Mozambique and we stayed some time visiting the island, imagining the grandeur of the guests sipping cocktails while listening to Bob Dylan playing the baby grand.

Benguerra is a very special place, worthy of a top spot on your bucket list to mark something important in your life. For some it is a celebration of marriage. For others, it might be a birthday, an anniversary or a treat for just getting through years of work or raising children. Whatever the reason, I know you will feel invigorated and recharged by the beauty and the sensory overload of this magical place. As well as the camera capturing those special moments I took lots of ‘mind snaps’ during my wonderful time there to sustain me during the long winter months. My favourite moment of each day was sitting quietly on the beach to watch the sun slip into the ocean after another day in paradise.

The setting for our Castaway-style picnic

Whispers of a glamorous past on Paradise Island

Unforgettable whale watching moments

The beach bar – our retreat

Travelling in style

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M E M O R A B L E M O M E N T SBenguerra was full of precious moments it was hard to choose just one.

Our private ocean...or so it felt!

Our evening sundowners spot

M y t o p 5 . . .1 . Sipping a cold beer one evening with Dara, our faces shiny from

hours of snorkelling, at the permanently landlocked colourful dhow that serves as the perfect beach bar.

2 . A wonderful Castaway-style picnic on a temporary sand island under a vivid blue canopy. A chilled bottle of wine awaited us and the staff served a simple but superb seafood salad with silver cutlery and crisp white napkins. Afterwards, the staff left us to our own devices lying on our personal sun beds, swimming in the clear sun-dazzled waters of our own private piece of ocean, where we felt we were truly reliving the Robinson Crusoe experience.

3 . Every night we gathered around the fire with our fellow guests to enjoy a drink before dinner. Dara and I were the only ones not on honeymoon but our newly-weds were great company and we stayed later and later each night enjoying the banter with our amiable host Thys along with Renoir, Fernando, Heike and the rest of the team. So much so that Thys organised a special treat one night when the ‘Benguerra boyband’ featuring a troupe of local children, including Sergio’s two brothers came to dance for us. They did amazing sand dances and, better still, taught us all some traditional moves.

4 . Sitting perfectly still in the early morning watching a host of little visitors take over the infinity pool. Benguerra is a bird sanctuary and home to more than 100 species, including the crab plover, olive bee-eater and green coucal.

5 . Loving the local horses rescued by Pat and Mandy Retzlaff. The couple rescued over 100 horses from President Robert Mugabe’s brutal regime and the surviving seven live out their days ambling the beautiful beaches of Benguerra. These gentle souls bear the scars of their inhumane treatment but, rest assured, they were cosseted by myself and Dara each and every afternoon.

Pat and Mandy’s rescue horses

Stunning sunsets

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“My favourite moment of each day was sitting quietly on the beach to watch the sun slip into the ocean after another day in paradise”

Beautifully themed bedrooms that opened onto our deck

Inside the Cassinha at Benguerra Island Lodge

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G O O D T O K N O WYou can travel to Benguerra Island Lodge by boat from the mainland but most guests opt for the ten minute helicopter ride from Vilanculos. The Lodge has 13 thatched roof beach villas. There are two Cabanas slightly smaller than the ten Cassinhas but all with stunning ocean views and beautifully furnished with an African themed décor of dark wood and bright blue textiles, a four-poster king bed, an oversized luxury bathtub and an outdoor shower area. The room design seamlessly blends the outside in, with floor-to-ceiling glass doors that open on to the deck and infinity pool. The outside Sala features comfortable sofas, loungers and a four-seater dining table providing plenty of options for shade or sun throughout the day. The suspended double beach bed over a thatch shade was a lovely feature and perfect for early evening sundowners. There is also a larger Casa Familia with interconnecting rooms which is ideal for families or groups. The dive centre is well equipped with expert instructors and its own diving boat and catamaran. Guests are introduced to their private butler on arrival. Ours was a wonderful young man called Sergio who catered for our every need, bringing breakfast each morning and creating wonderful dinner experiences on the beach or at the Lodge. He made sure the bar was stocked with our favourite items even sending a night cap to our room each evening. All meals and drinks are included along with a selection of activities.

G E T T I N G T H E R EFurther details from Belfast–based travel specialists Mahlatini (Mahlatini.com; ask for Claire Picknell who organised our trip) and details of Benguerra Island Lodge from Andbeyond.com. Flights were from Dublin to Johannesburg (via Addis Ababa) with Ethiopianairlines.com.

Beautiful moments spent whale watching The private deck and

infinity pool

Looking after our every need

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