Instruction Manual

Assembling Handlebar1. Open the neck socket with the supplied Hexagon key.

2. Insert the handlebars in the neck socket.

3. Place face plate back on and screw back on.

Assembling Front WheelFirmly insert the wheel between the forks so that it rests securely in place. Replace the tab washers and axle nuts and fasten securely ensuring that the tab washers locate into the holes provided. Using the spanner, re-tighten the nut on the front brake to secure the front brake cable. Brake pads should be between 1.5 – 2.0mm away from rim.

Assembling the Brake System1. Attach the front brake through the fork.

2. Put the inner brake cable through the holes of the bolts.

3. Tighten the cable and fix the brake arm.

4. Adjust the brake pad and screws, make sure the pad in the right position.

Attaching the Saddle

If not already attached, firmly push the narrow end of the seat post into the hole on theUnder side of the saddle, and tighten using the quick release.

Note: the minimum insertion mark must not be visible.

Attaching the Pedals

Ensuring that you are inserting the pedal into the correct side, firstly stand your bicycle in the upright, then screw each pedal by hand into the cranks and tighten using the spanner.

REMEMBER that the left pedal should be fitted anti-clockwise while the right pedal should be fitted clockwise.

CHECKING AND ADJUSTING YOUR BICYCLE

Keeping your bicycle in the upright position; stand with a leg either side of the front wheel, holding the wheel firmly in position. Loosen the handlebars using the Hexagonal key, and adjust to the right height and position for use. Note: the minimum insertion mark must not be visible. The mid-section of the handlebars must be aligned with the front wheel. Tighten into place.

Sit on your bicycle to gauge a suitable position use. The ideal height will allow your toes to touch the ground comfortably.

To adjust the position of the saddle, loosen the nut on the main unit situated at the bottom of the seat post and adjust and tighten.

Note: the minimum insertion mark must not be visible.

Before riding your bicycle for the first time ensure that your brakes work. Gently roll your bicycle backwards and forwards and test that each brake works individually.

When you sit on your bicycle with your hands on the handlebar, your left brake lever operates the rear brake system and your right lever operates the front brake system.

To obtain the best performance from your bicycle, check the tyre pressure by squeezing each tyre between your index and middle finger and thumb. The tyre should feel firm and if necessary pump air into it. Refer to the manufacturer’s recommendation as shown on the tyre sidewall.

MECHANICAL MAINTENANCE:

It is extremely important that your bicycle is checked and serviced at regular intervals to ensure its reliability and especially that it is safe to ride.

Cleaning and lubrication also forms an important tool in the proper maintenance of yourBicycle and this is covered in more detail immediately after this section.

The following checks are suggested:

Before your ride – check:

When you are riding, please use a bicycle helmet for your safety.Set reflectors on your bicycle for possible national legal requirements when you ride on the public road.The maximum total weight is 100kg. (bicycle+rider+luggage)Wheels are tightly secured.Tyres are inflated to correct pressure (indicated on side-wall of tyre). Also check condition of tyres for cuts etc. (Note: It is a good idea to carry a puncture repair kit or spare inner tube, tyre levers and pump with you).Handlebar, stem and headset locknut are tight and that the steering turns smoothly.Squeeze the brake levers to ensure sufficient pressure can be applied without the lever touching the handlebars. Also ensure brake blocks are aligned correctly with the rim and the blocks are not badly worn.Brake cables are not frayed at the end.Gears operate correctly and smoothly.Wheels are running true by spinning them. You can also check that mudguards, if fitted, are correctly adjusted at this time.The height of the seat can be adjusted from 650mm to 1020mm. The vertical distance from the ground to the top of the seat surface, measured with the seat in a horizontal Position and with the seat-pillar set to the minimum insertion depth.

After long or hard rides or at least every month of regular use – check the above as well as the following:

Clean, degrease and lubricate your bicycle.Crank, bottom bracket fittings and pedals are tight.Tyre wear and general condition for cuts, glass, thorn etc.

Spokes are not loose or broken. These need to be attended to before the bike can be ridden again and you would probably need to get these done at bicycle shop.Hubs are running smoothly.Tyres are free from imbedded objects such as thorns, glass or nails.

Every 12 months

Unless you have a good knowledge of bikes, we suggest that you take your bike to your local dealer for a full service. If this is not feasible we suggest you use the following checks:

Frame and forks for any damage or cracks.Wheels are true and if not replace or repair if necessary.Tyres for wear, replace or repair if necessary.Brake tracks on rims are not badly worn, also clean and degrease.Brake levers, brake adjusters, break cable and nipple attached to levers are in good order. Any sign of wear on cable to nipple joint replace inner wire.Brakes and brake blocks are to be replaced if excessive wear is evident and e-set brakes.Replace the chain wheel teeth especially if it is an alloy chain wheel, the same chain wheel ring is used most of the time. Worn chain wheels can significantly affect gear changing.Check the chain for wear and stiff links, clean and re-grease chain or replace if necessary. The chain will stretch with use and should be changed before causing excessive wear to the chain wheel or sprockets (approximately every 1500 – 2000 miles or every 2 years if riding approximately 25 miles per week).Cranks are attached securely.Front shifter and rear derailleur for wear and especially check the rear derailleur in respect of straightness and the jockey wheel.Bottom bracket fittings for wear and disassemble and re-grease or replace if required.Headset moves smoothly by turning the wheel. Also check side movement by applying the front brake and try rocking the bike. If any movement is found, the headset may need cleaning, adjusting and re-greasing or the bearing may need replacing or even a complete new headset may need fitting.

If in doubt always consult a bike dealer or qualified mechanic.

Please note that these schedules are suggestions, frequent and heavy use of your bike such as off road riding will require more frequent maintenance.

Remember good maintenance will prolong the life of your bike and components and ensure yours and other people’s safety.

RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING OF FASTENERS

1). Handlebar: 200kgf.cm2). Handlebar stem: 200kgf.cm3). Saddle and pillar: 200kgf.cm4). Wheel: 300kgf.cm5). Quick release mechanism: 200kgf.cm

CORRECT ADJUSTMENT OF GEARS How to Adjust Your Front Derailleur?Use a 5mm Allen wrench and loosen the bolt holding the cable on the front derailleur. Push the old cable out and then thread the new cable through the shifter, through the stays and down into the derailleur. It is recommended that if you are going through the effort to replace the cable you should replace the housing at the same time. Use a good cable cutter to ensure a clean cut of the housing, essential for optimal shifting.Before putting the cable in adjust the low setting on the derailleur: with no cable shift the chain to the biggest cog and put the chain on the little chaining. The chain should have approximately 1mm clearance between the chain and the inside plate of the derailleur. Back out the inside screw on top of the derailleur to move the unit inward, towards bottom bracket. Once the 1mm is set, put the cable through the derailleur arm.

Make sure the adjustment at the shifter is screwed most of the way in. Tighten down the holding screw on the derailleur arm. Shift the shifter into middle chain ring position. You will eventually want the same 1mm between the chain and inner plate. Back the adjustment screw out to increase the cable tension and move the plate outwards. You may have to reset the cable on the derailleur arm if more adjustment is needed.

Next, shift to the big ring and shift to the smallest cog in the back. You should have 1mm of clearance between the chain and the outside plate now. Adjust the outer screw on the top of the derailleur to get this. Back the screw out to move it towards the outside. Tighten the bolt holding the cable and go for a test ride.

How to Adjust Your Rear Derailleur?

Use a 5mm Allen wrench and loosen the bolt holding the cable on the rear derailleur. Thread the shift cable through the cable stays and tighten it in the rear derailleur with as little slack as possible. Make sure that the adjustment screw on the shifter is in the midpoint of the adjustment.

Shift the chain into the big chain ring and the smallest cog. As you turn the cranks to pedal the bike, make sure that the chain rides silently on the small cog. If it does not and tries to skip up to the next biggest cog, unscrew the high (marked H) setting screw on the back of the derailleur. If the chain is trying to skip out beyond the small cog, tighten the screw slightly.

Perform adjustments in 1/4-turn increments. Next, shift the chain into the small chain ring and biggest cog. Perform the same check on the cog. Loosen the low (marked L) screw to move the chain to the inside and tight to move towards the outside. After the screws are set, shift to the middle chain ring and the smallest cog. Check to see if the shifters will shift the chain into the next highest cog when shifted once.If the chain does not shift, unscrew the cable adjustment screw on the back of the derailleur until the cable jumps up onto the next cog. Try shifting back and forth between these two gears. If the cable does not want to shift up quickly enough, increase cable tension by unscrewing the cable adjustment screw. If it does not want to shift down to the smallest cog, decrease cable tension by screwing the cable screw in.

Repeat this step for the next couple of gears until all are shifting correctly. If you are having trouble getting the shifting right, it could be a number of problems: 1. dirty or dry cables - clean and lube thoroughly; 2. bent derailleur hanger - look to see if it is bent. Bad cable - replace it. New chain/old gear cassette or vice versa.

ADJUSTING YOUR BRAKESYour brakes are already fine-tuned by the manufacturer. Still please check that when you squeeze the levers hard, they do not touch the handlebar. If they do, you can adjust the brakes by tuning the brake cable-adjusting barrel anti-clockwise. After adjustment turn the lock nut hard clockwise. If the brakes still fail then have your dealer check them.

NORMAL SPARE PARTS ASSEMBLY Tire and Tube1) Pump up the tube slightly. Slip one edge of the tyre into the rim. Push the tube's valveInto the rims hole and then, starting from the valve, push the tube inside the tyre. Make sure the valve stem is upright and the tube isn't twisted.2) Begin to place the second edge of the tyre onto the rim. (Only about 75 percent of the tyre will go on easily, the rest needs to be coaxed onto the rim). For really stubborn tyres, use tyre levers to lever the tyre on slowly making sure not to pinch the tube.3) When completed, pump a bit more air into the tube to check that it isn't caught and the tyre is properly seated on the rim. Once satisfied, you can inflate the tyre fully.Brake Block Holder1) After removing the old brake block, which can be done by simply unscrewing the nut on the block anti-clockwise using the hexagonal key, take away the old brake block and put the new brake block in the screw halfway.2) Adjust the block height and angle in relation to the rim. Make sure when you use the brake, the brake blocks contact the center of the rim, and that they are parallel to the rim.3) Adjust the distance between both brake blocks and the rim to allow 1mm of space each side to allow the wheel to rotate freely.4) After above adjustments, secure the nut tight.

Warning: This bicycle is not designed for off road use or stunts. Periodic Inspections of the Frame, Fork and Suspension joints

Every twelve months, check your frame, fork and suspension, as with all mechanical components, the bicycle is subjected to wear and high stresses. Different materials and components react to wear or stress fatigue in different ways. If the design life of a component has been exceeded, it may suddenly fail possibly causing injuries to the rider. Any form of crack, scratches or change of coloring in highly stressed areas indicate that the life of the component has been reached and it should be replaced.

ChainInspection

The chain must be kept clean and frequently lubricated in order to extend its life as longAs possible. It will require replacement if it stretches breaks or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure that there are no shift links, they must all move freely.

The chain should be lubricated with light oil at least one month, or after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions. Take care to wipe off excess oil, and not to get oil on the tyres or rim breaking surfaces.

Adjustment and ReplacementOn derailleur-geared bicycles the rear derailleur automatically tensions the chain.

REPLACEMENT PARTS / SPARESFurther assistance is available for the setup of the cycle, technical difficulties and spare parts. Please refer to the contact details on the back page.

Where possible please return the damaged part for identification purposes.

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