May 22, 2014

Written by Gerald Jones, wonderfully captured by Roshanda Cummings. Article originally appeared on ThisIsVallejo.com

Let’s just face the facts, for most folks, Vallejo isn’t a destination town. Besides a day trip to

Marine World (Six Flags Discovery Kingdom for our out-of-town readers), it’s plausible that the

city by the bay is a defunct amusement park away from being reduced to a roadside pit-stop on a

well-trodden Napa Valley route. However, there’s an absorbing “cool thing” brewing in Vallejo: an

economic resurgence downtown; collaboration between fresh entrepreneurs and longtime

business leaders, and a more small-business-friendly local government. But there’s something

particularly special that’s got people buzzing around town, our very own artisan brewery. A

brewery that is brewing more than just beer.

On recommendation from Koham Press’ Ben Rogers, I decided to wash down a slice of Napoli’s

pizza with a frothy golden ale, obscurely named the Saginaw. To be honest, I’m not much of a

beer drinker and I don’t feel the slightest bit of emasculation that my girlfriend is more

knowledgeable about “hops and seasonal beers” than I can ever hope to be. Still, my taste buds

retain an affinity for quality. No sir, this wasn’t the watered down light stuff in red plastic cups,

idly waiting to be intruded upon by a ping pong ball. According to my “staunch” palate (and a

more reliable source in my girlfriend--who later enjoyed it at the Sardine Can), this here was a

testimony to fine craftsmanship. And the best part: it’s carefully and locally brewed by Kent

Fortner and Ryan Gibbons, co-founders of Vallejo’s Mare Island Brewing Co.

Located in the ferry terminal, the Tap Room stands shielded by colosal, scruffy painted doors that

beckons curious glances from those who pass by. Trying not to trip over small buckets of nails and

other unidentifiable trinkets, Ryan and I make our way outside where he explains the plans for

beautifying the waterfront with a garden before revealing the table arrangements. “The coolest

thing is we get to look right over there and say that’s where the beer comes from,” remarks

Gibbons, pointing to the brewing space across the way at Mare Island. He begins on the history of

the coal sheds in detail, the place where the brewing will take place, and the Coal Shed Artists

who inhabit coal shed #1; the artists are responsible for the Tap Room's amazing zinc bar table

tops.

Outside with Ryan Gibbons (on the left), peering over to Mare Island

The brewing is in perfect hands. Both Fortner and Gibbons enjoyed storied tenures in

winemaking with Fortner being an owner of his own wine brand and where they became good

friends. Gibbons was also a brewer at Petaluma’s revered brewery, Lagunitas. Fortner was

originally looking for a space to extend the wine brand with a tasting room but both agreed that

beer was more of a defining characteristic of the Vallejo community than wine. “Nothing does

Vallejo better than beer, its industrial grit screams beer,” remarks Gibbons.

Back inside I really take in the place, transfixed by its pending grandeur and in awe at how the

place is organically infuses the elements of Mare Island that no amount of imposed branding can

achieve. “This reclaimed wood here comes from the demolition of Building 417 on the island,”

says Gibbons. He begins to excitedly explain why the old growth wood they have is sturdier than

other wood (population density of forests); the plans for a 55-gallon truck drum that is (1) being

welded by an MI welder, (2) to be turned into a coffee table; a space for live music and the stark

contrast of wood and corrugated steel “to keep it Mare Island.”

“To keep it Mare Island”... a slogan that conjures up images of the mysterious peninsula

on the other side of the channel.

Entering the former thriving naval shipyard, Mare Island gives off a haunting post

Chernobyl/Pripyat quietness. However, here radiation in the air isn’t much of a concern. The

dilapidated eye-sore of former military housing units and abandoned buildings that are riddled

with vague graffiti, shattered windows, are enough to scare people off. However, if you travel

further back, Mare Island becomes a blossoming beauty. Driving down the road, creepy-crawler

inhabited barracks are replaced with the emergence of beautiful homes the size of mansions,

once housing military officials up in the ranks. For seven years now, Kent Fortner and his wife

have called one of these Victorian-styled quarters home. In addition to other small business that

inhabit the island, there’s the Mare Island golf course, Touro University and the Vallejo School

District office that quietly keep Vallejo humming. The development plans for the post-

apocalyptic parts of Mare Island are constantly shrouded in local rumors of “a movie studio” and

other wishful projects. In all the speculation for the future planning of Mare Island, what gets lost

is the preservation of its rich history.

“The coolest thing about this is that I can be in New York and talk to people about

Mare Island.”

— Fortner

They are both keenly aware of sharing Mare Island History.

Ryan: "Mare Island as a brand has a great rich history that

really labels itself. Coming up with the names of the beers

has been one of the best parts. I love history; doing

research I learned the very first ship built was the

Saginaw. I couldn't wait [to name it] and [I ] texted my

partner and told him the first beer had to be named the

'Saginaw'. We’re able to carry on history through the

names of beer that evoke conversation.”

Kent Fortner (far right) sharing his thoughts on what makes the perfect brew.

Kent: “I'm not sure what's going to take [the

development of Mare Island] forward, [but] this is

important for me. There’s the museum and a lot of

the curators are widows of World War II veterans,

but they're gonna possibly be gone in another ten

years---that entire generation who fought for our

freedom. It’s not that were some great stewards

of history---we try--but what's needed for Mare

Island is a vehicle to take the [historic] path and

put it on solid economic future footing. It's hugely

gratifying to be able to take that history and put it

a new format that's a little more casual, a bit more

hip. If someone wants to come and talk 200 years

of history [with us], we've got them covered. If

someone wants to come out and enjoy a beer on

the waterfront, we've got them covered.”

Ryan Gibbons (Left) & Kent Fortner (Right), founders of Mare Island Brewing Company; all smiles--

brewing something special.

Ah yes, my taste buds begin to tingle with thoughts of that delicious Saginaw I quaffed down a

week ago. The opening day line-up will consist of a stout, the dark rich beer aptly dubbed “Coal

Shed”, an Indian Pale Ale that will begin brewing in a week, and a barreled Belgian style beer. “It’s

a nice balance,” says Fortner. “Of course we’ll have seasonal stuff but you’ll have to definitely

come in for that,” adds Gibbons with a boyish grin. And come they will. “We haven't done one lick

of advertising, people just seem hungry and thirsty for this thing, they've been incredible,” says a

wide-eyed Fortner. Yes, people are definitely excited for the opening of Vallejo’s very own

brewery. Even the City is on board, working arduously to rewrite archaic zoning ordinances that,

in Kent’s words, “date back to the drunken sailors, red light district days.” Everyone has been

excited because Vallejo is taking another step in the right direction. “There's a lot of change you

can see in Vallejo, we’re just excited to be a part of that. It's the last gem in the bay where the

waterfront property hasn’t been developed to its potential,” says Gibbons.

Beer can stimulate boisterous conversation among the most clammed up of us but what if it

could also elicit stories of President FDR paying a visit to Mare Island during World War II? Better

yet, what if the brewing of a beer could stimulate the growth of a city that's been traditionally

steeped in a slothful economy? In Mare Island Brewing Co. we just may have a viable blueprint.

“Vallejo can be an awesome craft brewing destination similar to Petaluma with Lagunitas and 101

North,” says Gibbons. “There’s an awesome movement in artisan brewing going on. The place is

right, the time is right. This is something that people [can] say, 'That's my Vallejo'." Indeed it is

our Vallejo, Kent, indeed it is.