MARY WANG JOINS TORY BURCH/2 WAL-MART FIGHTS BACK/18Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • September 24, 2004 • $2.00

WWDFRIDAYBeauty

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Color TherapyNEW YORK — Almay’s

diagnosis is that mass-

market cosmetics

shoppers will benefit from

a little color analysis. Its

newest makeup collection,

Intense i-Color, is

organized into four color

families — based on eye

color — and is said to

make selecting the most

flattering eye shadow

shades foolproof. Intense

i-Color, expected to be

Almay’s biggest franchise

with first-year retail sales

projections of $20 million

to $30 million, will debut

in stores in early 2005.

For more, see page 11.

By Julie NaughtonNEW YORK — Get ready for Donald Trump,lifestyle brand.

As if the real estate mogul and reality TVstar weren’t ubiquitous enough, the EstéeLauder Cos. now plans to turn Trump into

a beauty titan. Lauder on Thursdayconfirmed a deal to launch a fragrancecalled, simply, Donald Trump TheFragrance. It will initially be soldexclusively in Federated Department

Lauder Comes Up Trumps in Celebrity Scents

See The Smell, Page 6

BEAUTYDonald Trump and Estée Lauder Cos. team for Donald Trump TheFragrance, which will launch in Federated stores in November.

Aramis, the fragrance that sparked the rise of the men’s prestige categoryin 1964, is continuing efforts to renew its namesake business.

Kim Cattrall, best known for her vixen role in “Sex and the City,” has signeda deal with Liz Claiborne Cosmetics to be the face of Spark Seduction.

GENERALMary Wang is departing as brand president of DKNY to become presidentof Tory by TRB, the women’s lifestyle collection designed by Tory Burch.

Hispanic talk-show star Cristina Saralegui is adding fashion to her résumé,launching the Cristina Sportswear collection, licensed to Sutton Creations.

Wal-Mart placed full-page open letters in 15 California newspapers to rebutcriticism of its plan to build 40 supercenters in the Golden State.

SUZYThe marriage between Alix Van der Kemp and Count Pierre de laRochefoucauld…Campaigning with Clooney…A Hoppen happening.

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● PLAY TIME: Teen queen Hilary Duff will team up with Mattelto introduce a range of Barbie dolls called Fashion Fever, a girls’apparel and accessories line, and a Barbie fragrance. “She’s thenew Barbie ambassador,” said Stacey Gomoljak, director of pub-lic relations for Mattel. Duff will be joined by her older sister,Haylie, in one of two national TV spots that will air in the nextfew weeks. Additional TV, print and outdoor ads will roll out laterthis fall. Fashion Fever dolls will feature the legendary Barbiewith her “friends” Drew, Kayla and Teresa — all of them wearingtrendy, contemporary fashions. A new clothing line for girls willbe sold exclusively at Federated Stores this fall, including T-shirts, tops and denim. And a Barbie fragrance was launched inAugust in partnership with Puig Beauty and Fashion Group.

● GOOD EXERCISE: Neiman Marcus Stores’ chief executive offi-cer Karen Katz made $162,541 pretax by exercising some of herstock options on Wednesday, according to a filing with theSecurities and Exchange Commission. Katz, who is also presi-dent of the flagship division of Neiman Marcus Stores GroupInc., exercised 5,000 options at a strike price of $24.50 for a totalof $122,500, and then sold those class A common shares at slight-ly more than $57 for a total of $285,041. Following the transac-tion, Katz still owned 10,000 options with a $24.50 strike price.

In Brief

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WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 20042

NEW YORK — Sean “P. Diddy” Combs might beknown for a certain bravado, but next monthhe’ll have reason to brag.

The Black Retail Action Group, known asBRAG, will present Combs with a special recog-nition award at its 34th Annual Scholarship andAwards Dinner Dance at the Sheraton New YorkHotel & Towers on Oct. 15.

Harlan Brandon, chief executive officer of hiseponymous shoe collection, will receive the J.J.

Thomas Innovators award. Business achievementawards will go to Anne Carter, vice president ofdiversity at May Department Stores Co.; JuliusWalls, ceo of Greyson Bakery; Gary Williams,owner of the Gary Williams showroom, and JeanGriffin, vice president and group design directorat Fairchild Publications, which publishes WWD.

Founded in 1970, BRAG is a nonprofit groupdevoted to ending discrimination on the basis ofrace or native origin.

Retail Group to Honor P. Diddy

By Lisa Lockwood

NEW YORK — Mary Wang, brand president of DKNY,has been named president of Tory by TRB, thewomen’s lifestyle collection designed by Tory Burch.

Wang has been president of the DKNY brandsince 2002, where she oversaw all aspects of thewomen’s, men’s, accessories and footwear busi-nesses. Before that, she was president of U.S.wholesale at Coach, and earlier held executiveposts at Emanuel and Tommy Hilfiger. Her mostrecent role at DKNY marked her return to thefirm, having previously been vice president ofmerchandising for DKNY Women’s and later pres-ident of DKNY Women’s.

She will join Tory by TRB in early Novemberand will be responsible for all global sales, produc-tion, merchandising and marketing. She will bebased at the company’s Midtown offices opening

shortly at 10 East 33rd Street here and will report tothe company’s board, which consists of ChristopherBurch, chairman and chief executive officer, andhis wife, Tory Burch, founder and creative director.Christopher Burch is also a venture capitalist.

Jeffry Aronsson, ceo of Donna Karan Inter-national, couldn’t be reached for commentThursday, but said in a statement, “She [Wang]helped us rebuild the brand and importantly devel-oped an innovative merchandising, production andsales team who work in alignment with the creativedesign team headed by Jane Chung. Editorial andretail response has been very positive, and this isreflected in the growing sales at retail.” Aronssonsaid “a successor will be named shortly to continuethe turnaround and momentum she and the teamhave realized for the DKNY brand.”

Tory by TRB, a lifestyle collection of sports-wear and accessories, was launched in August

2003 by Tory Burch and her Hong Kong partner,Fiona Kotur Marin. The first line hit stores lastFebruary. Priced between contemporary andbridge, items include rhinestone-trimmed caftans,sportswear, outerwear, handbags, footwear, jewel-ry, home products, candles and terry-cloth beachtowels. Wholesale prices range from $16 for a cot-ton embellished tank to $124 for cashmeresweaters to $425 for a rhinestone tunic.

Neither Wang nor Tory Burch could bereached for comment, but Tory Burch said in astatement she expects Wang’s “expertise in salesand merchandising will be crucial in establishingour wholesale business, as well as growing ourpresence in retail.”

The company has a flagship at 257 ElizabethStreet in NoLIta here. The collection is also car-ried exclusively by Bergdorf Goodman and is soldonline at toryltd.com and Vivre.com.

Robert Burke, senior vice president of fashionand p.r. at Bergdorf Goodman, said, “We’re doingextremely well with the Tory by TRB line. We hada party last week, and 400 people showed up.Tory’s doing something unique. She’s not follow-ing anyone. It’s very fashionable.”

He believes Wang will do well there. “Mary is avery smart merchant and she understands the re-tailers and the retailers’ needs,” said Burke.

For spring, the Tory by TRB line is expected tobe rolled out to major stores, according to JonnyLichtenstein, director of p.r. at Tory by TRB. Mostrecently, Lichtenstein was a freelancer and beforethat was director of p.r., men’s wear for Michael Kors.

Another new hire at Tory by TRB is Stephanievan Watzdorf, who has been named director of de-sign development. Most recently, she was vicepresident of design at Ann Taylor, and also helddesign posts at Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani.

Wang Named President at Tory BurchWWW.WWD.COM

PARIS — Louis Vuitton on Thursdayfeted what it is billing as the largest lux-ury store in China, a 9,700-square-footunit in Shanghai in the Plaza 66 building.

The location more than doubled insize to accommodate all the company’sproduct categories, including ready-to-wear, shoes, watches and fine jewelry— many of which were not previouslyavailable on the Mainland. Notablefeatures of the two-level store includea 1,100-square-foot VIP salon.

Vuitton counts 11 boutiques inChina out of a worldwide total of 332.The brand has opened 15 stores world-wide since the beginning of the year,including its largest store on FifthAvenue in New York.

Yves Carcelle, president of LouisVuitton, said in a statement that thenew Shanghai store reflects the grow-ing importance of the Chinese luxurygoods market.

Vuitton’s Large-Scale Approach

“She [Wang] helped us rebuild the brand and importantlydeveloped an innovative merchandising, production and salesteam who work in alignment with the creative design team.”— Jeffry Aronsson, Donna Karan International

The new

Vuitton store

in Shanghai.

The new

Vuitton store

in Shanghai.

“I’m just an accessory.”— Brad Pitt at the Emmys.

Quote of the Week

Do you dare?

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Next week in La Belle France (let’s keeppolitics out of this), one of the grandest ofweddings will take place at the magnificentChateau de Versainville, a huge 18th-century castle in Normandy. If you motor

from Paris for le mariage, it will take you three hours, butdo believe me, it will be well worth it. The lineage alone ofthe bride and groom and the navy blue blood of many ofthe guests is really quelque chose. The French are verygood at quelque chose.

The bride is Alix Van der Kemp and the groom is CountPierre de la Rochefoucauld. The bride’s parents areElisabeth de Ribes and Frank Van der Kamp and, écoutez,the bride’s grandparents are none other than the Countand Countess de Ribes, Edouard and Jacqueline, to thosewho know them best. Jacqueline de Ribes, a grand mère?Mais, non. It cannot be.

Those of you who are experts in international societyand the fashionables who inhabit it — and that means all ofyou, doesn’t it? — will instantly recall the exotic, sloe-eyed Countess de Ribes. For decades she has been themost gloriously glamorous figure in the purlieus of the trèsriche and the très grand. The best dressed of the bestdressed, she is the kind of amazing woman who makes anentrance even when she goes out to walk le chien. Menhave fallen at her feet for years, but she and her husband,the Count, a Paris banker, have remained together throughhowever you say thick and thin in French. The bride’sother grandfather was the late Gerald Van der Kamp, awonderful man of giant intellect and charm who broughteven more glory to Versailles and Giverny when heserved as curator.

The groom’s parents are Count and Countess Jacquesde la Rochefoucauld and if that name rings bells, yes, oneof his noble ancestors was the great French moralist andmemoir writer, one of whose many maxims was, “Thepleasure of love is loving.” Well, OK.

The bride-to-be’s wedding gown, designed by Ungaro,is a gorgeous confection of ivory taffeta and lace withwhich she will wear a tiara of diamonds and pearls. The

wedding dinner at Versainville has been organized byFrance’s inestimable Pierre Celeyron, who can make ashanty look like a dream, so you can imagine what willhappen when they let him loose at the castle, where theseated dinner is for 400 of the sublime.

An idea of who will be there? Well, how about thepresident of the Louvre, Henri Loyrette, and MadameLoyrette; the former Minister of Culture, Jean JacquesAiguillon, plus our Ambassador to France, Howard Leachand his wife, Gretchen. Then there are Prince andPrincess Michael of Greece; Jean Gabriel Mitterand; theDuke and Duchess de la Roche-Guyon of theRochefoucauld family; the Duke and Duchess of Rutland,coming from England; the Duke and Duchess of Liancourt;

Her Royal Highness the Duchess de Orleans; PrincessLaure de Beauvau-Craon; Prince and Princess Maximiliande Merode, and His Imperial and Royal HighnessArchduke Carl Christian of Austria. Sounds like fun to me.

●And here’s more grand titles, all coming to New York on

Oct. 7 when the Hispanic Society of America will celebrateits Centennial Gala at the Metropolitan Club. Who will bethere? None other than Their Royal Highnesses, thePrince and Princess of Asturias, better known perhaps asCrown Prince Felipe of Spain (very good-looking) and hisnew bride, Crown Princess Letizia (very, very good-looking), who were married in Spain in May. This will betheir first visit to the U.S. since then, and 300 distinguishedguests from Spain and the Americas are expected at theblack-tie dinner-dance given by the society, which wasfounded in 1904 by Archer Huntington, the Americanscholar and philanthropist, to promote the study of the richarts and culture of Spain and its influence throughout theworld. Now, the society’s museum and library collectionsinclude more than half a million works from The BronzeAge on. The co-chairs of the evening are Susan andColeman Burke and Katharine and George Moore.

●Andie MacDowell takes her beautiful head of hair to

Queen Latifah’s “Beautyshop” in November, the comedywith Mena Suvari, Alicia Silverstone, KevinBacon andAlfre Woodard. Andie, whose film career began in 1984with Glenn Close dubbing her voice because of a heavySouthern accent in “Greystoke: The Legend of Tarzan,Lord of the Apes,” went on to achieve leading-lady statusand next month will receive a Medal of Honor in the Artsfrom Winthrop University, the same school she attended

for two semesters only to be told shewouldn’t go far in acting. Ha-ha.

●George Clooney has been in New

York helping his daddy, Nick Clooney,who used to be a host on theAmerican Movie Classics network,raise money for his Congressionalcampaign in Kentucky. Clooney, whoreturns to Italy this week to shoot thefinal scenes for his movie, “Oceans12,” has this minute signed on withFiat to be the ambassador for theircute new minivan. George has justwrapped the television commercial,which will air in Europe for whatwould have been about 6 billion lire ifItaly still had lire. So let’s just say it’s amultimillion dollar deal. Thecommercial shows George being luredinto the SUV on a road near his LakeComo villa by a beautiful brunette,who locks Clooney in the car anddrives away with him. The spot endswith the line, “George not included.”Maybe they could have sold a lot morecars if they had figured out how toclone Clooney.

●Friends of Elizabeth Hurley think

she just might be pregnant with hersecond child. She’s showing all thesigns. She’s been dating her boyfriend,Arun Nayer, for 18 months and she hasoften said she would like a playmatefor her two-year-old son, born fromher unfortunate relationship withHollywood producer Steve Bing. InBombay, the story is rife in thetabloids, but Nayer — who recentlydivorced his wife, an Italian model, sohe could be free to marry Elizabeth —is denying impending fatherhood. This

is one of those things that only time will tell. ●

The British interior designer Kelly Hoppen, who hasdone things for Jude Law, Donna Karan and Sir Elton John,is coming to town next week to check out her newboutique at Bergdorf Goodman, which will open early nextmonth. It will be a showcase for her line of homefurnishings, cushions, linens and artifacts from around theworld, all perfumed with her signature room scents. Theopening will also celebrate the publication of her newbook, “Kelly Hoppen Style: The Golden Rules of Design.”Among those expected at the Hoppen happening areKimberly and StevenRockefeller, Patty Hearst and Sallyand Rufus Albemarle.

eye®

By Aileen Mehle

Suzy

WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 20044

Un Mariage Royale ● Campaigning With Clooney ● A Hoppen HappeningWWW.WWD.COM

Andie

MacDowell

Andie

MacDowell

Elizabeth HurleyElizabeth Hurley

Jacqueline

de Ribes

Jacqueline

de Ribes

We remain committed to our vows.Ten years ago, Martha Stewart Weddings vowed to be the pre-eminent upscalebridal magazine in America and has kept that promise. Renowned for its beautifulphotography and award-winning design, Weddings faithfully delights its loyalaudience of sophisticated brides and grooms who spend over 80 minutes with themagazine*. From the engagement to the honeymoon, Weddings introduces ourreaders to the best experts, resources and inspiration to help them realize theirwedding-day dreams.

Celebrating 10 Years of Wedding Bliss.Join in the celebration and create a great reception for your ad. Call Marcia Miller, Publisher, at 212.827.8146.*Source: Martha Stewart Weddings Newsstand Reader Survey, Winter 2003

The Beauty Report

Stores doors beginning in mid-November.This news confirms a WWD report

that ran on Friday, Sept.17. For those who may groan at the idea

of the scent of The Donald, be fore-warned: Lauder and Trump have bigplans for the brand and even hint it couldeventually do over $100 million in sales— and that’s at the low end of Lauder’saspirations for the project, said WilliamLauder, chief executive officer of theEstée Lauder Cos. It could net Trump acool $2 million a year in royalties.

Lauder has said publicly on morethan one occasion that the company willonly entertain new brands with thepotential to ultimately reach that kind ofvolume. “We’re exploring all our optionsto build this into a megabrand,” saidLauder. “We all want this to be huge.”

“Donald Trump has developed into alifestyle brand — from his real estate andhis hotel empires to his best-selling booksand apparel,” said Fabrice Weber, presi-dent of Aramis and Designer Fragrances,whose division will oversee the brand.“The fragrance is clearly a piece of thatuniverse. We want to be number onewherever we are with this scent.”

That works just fine with Trump’slofty goals for the brand: “I like to benumber one,” he said in an interview inhis offices Thursday.

Speaking of number-one status,Trump’s top-rated reality show on NBC,“The Apprentice,” which draws 41.5 mil-lion viewers a week, returned to thescreen for a second season on Sept. 9,and Levi Strauss & Co. has said that onetask for the contestants on this season’sedition will be to freshen marketingplans for the Levi’s brand. Trump toldWWD Thursday that he would like toissue a similar challenge to his appren-tices to create a marketing plan forfuture additions to his beauty brand.Such a project, he said, would likelycome in the show’s third season.

As well, “The Apprentice” is involvedwith a number of household names thisseason, said Trump, who reeled off a listthat included Pepsi and Cunard.Thursday’s episode was slated to unveila new toothpaste from Procter & Gamble,Crest Vanilla Mint. “The first year, wewere selling lemonade,” Trump saidwith a chuckle, “and that was fine, too.”

The terms of the deal were not dis-closed, and neither Lauder executivesnor Trump would discuss financial par-ticulars, although Lauder said with alaugh, “it’s a beneficial deal for all par-ties.” But industry sources estimatedthat Trump will receive royalties ofabout 5 percent from Lauder, and anindustry observer noted that manycelebrity deals are for at least threeyears, with renewable clauses.

While the charismatic, self-professedbillionaire has been approached with anumber of potential fragrance deals overthe years, he said that he chose to workwith Lauder for a number of reasons —among them, a longtime friendship withWilliam Lauder and his father, Leonard,who is chairman of the company.“William has been a good friend for along time, as has Leonard,” said Trump.“I was never energized to do a fragranceuntil William called.”

When asked what his favorite smell —aside from money — is, Trump chuckledas he replied, “I’d really be in trouble if Itold you that.”

Presumably, Trump’s eponymousscent, with accords named for his busi-ness acumen, includes at least a few ofhis favorite ingredients. Formulated byFirmenich, the scent’s three accords —or top, middle and drydown notes —

include “Confidence,” a top note withbright citrus, refreshing mint, cucumberand black basil; the middle accord,“Success,” with green and aromaticnotes rounded out by spice and pepperaccents, and the drydown accord,“Character,” which includes exoticwoods, herb notes and vetiver.

The Trump fragrance brand willlaunch with one product, a 3.4-ounce bot-tle that will retail for $60. The sleek glassbottle is a ridged geometric shapecapped in gold, which is intended to bereminiscent of Trump Tower. The outerpackaging is of gold with black accents

and a black interior. Trump said that future plans include

a women’s fragrance, men’s and women’sancillaries, as well as “as many scents asthe market will support.”

When asked what his target market forthe first fragrance was, Trump — whonoted that he’s currently mentioned inabout six rap songs — said that he believesthe scent will appeal to a broad range ofmen, “including people of very substantialmeans, and urban consumers.”

“Like everything Donald does, thiswill be a very aspirational product,” saidLauder. “We think it will have exception-al appeal.”

Because the Trump brand is heading

to market so soon after being created, thedecision was made to initially do anexclusive distribution deal withFederated Department Stores, saidWeber. The agreement will take the scentinto about 400 of the chain’s doors,including Macy’s and Bloomingdale’snationwide, by Nov. 15.

“There simply wasn’t time to producethe quantity [of product] that we wouldneed for a multimillion-dollar launch forthis holiday season,” said Lauder. “Butrather than wait, we wanted to capitalizeon the success of ‘The Apprentice’ forthis holiday season — which meant that

we could go only into a small number ofdoors at first.” Federated, due to itsheavy concentration in New York City —a key Trump territory — as well as itspresence elsewhere in the U.S. made theretailer the logical choice, said Lauder.

“Our concern was to have an adequatesupply of this fragrance for the holidayselling season,” added Weber. “While wewould have loved to have had the fra-grance everywhere at once, we needtime to produce more of this scent — aswe are sure it will be a blockbuster.”

In 2005, the brand will expand to otherU.S. department store doors. Eventually— and possibly in 2005 — the brand willbe launched globally, said Lauder.

And Trump doesn’t rule out the occa-sional public appearance to promotethe scent, although his jam-packedschedule isn’t likely to afford him theopportunity to do a great deal of them.“I’m a little busy,” he said, somewhatironically, “but I want this to be a bigbusiness. I like being number one. It’sbetter than losing!”

Extensive national print advertisingis planned, both at launch and beyond,said Weber; a list of the specific maga-zines in which ads will appear has notbeen finalized. The ads, created in bothsingle-page and spread formats, featureTrump and his fiancée, model MelaniaKnauss, in Trump’s boardroom. Thecampaign has been shot by MarioTestino.

Trump’s deal is the latest in a slew ofcelebrity beauty deals signed over thelast year — although Lauder is quick topoint out that Trump isn’t a typicalcelebrity, as in a fashion designer oractor. “Donald is unique, which we thinkwill work in our favor,” Lauder said. “Welike to think out of the box, and this is anexample of that thinking.”

The Trump fragrance is yet anothersign of the changing landscape of the fra-grance business and the revival ofcelebrity scents. And Lauder is leadingthat transformation as much as any beau-ty company. Early this year, BeyoncéKnowles teamed up with Tommy HilfigerToiletries’ for the new scent, True Star,and in May Lauder linked up with Sean“P. Diddy” Combs to develop a Sean Johnbeauty collection.

But Lauder isn’t the only one. In earlySeptember, Kimora Lee Simmons andCoty signed a beauty license; actor AlanCumming signed with ChristopherBrosius’ new indie firm to do his own fra-grance, coming in February, and in May,Trump’s fellow reality TV star, ParisHilton, signed a deal with Parlux to do afragrance that will roll out in November.Britney Spears inked a deal withElizabeth Arden for fragrance, skin careand color cosmetics in March and has ascent, Curious Britney Spears, rollingout now. The mass side includes Coty’sdeals with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsenand Celine Dion, as well as an agreementannounced by ABC Daytime and Wal-Mart to produce an “All My Children” fra-grance, which will be “created” in a sto-ryline on the soap, then sold in Wal-Marts beginning early next week.

Spokesperson gigs are just as hot,with the latest being Kim Cattrall’s dealwith Liz Claiborne Cosmetics (see relat-ed story on page 10.) Others signedrecently include Nicole Kidman’s deallast October to represent Chanel No.5;Charlize Theron’s August agreement tobe the face of Dior’s J’adore; ScarlettJohansson’s February signing to be theface of Calvin Klein’s Eternity Moment,and Ashley Judd’s June pact to frontAmerican Beauty, the newBeautyBank/Kohl’s brand coming fromthe Estée Lauder Cos. next month. Thesecond of the Kohl’s brands, Flirt, will beheadlined by a different star each sea-son, with the first, songstress MichelleBranch, coming in October.

Other stars currently filling the pres-tige world’s galaxy include JenniferLopez for Coty’s Lancaster division, whois widely credited with singlehandedlyreviving the celebrity fragrance genre;Liv Tyler, the face of Givenchy’s VeryIrresistible Givenchy and Givenchy’snew makeup line; Catherine Zeta-Jones,the face of Elizabeth Arden’s eponymousproducts — and beauty’s elder states-woman, Elizabeth Taylor, who has creat-ed fragrances under her name withElizabeth Arden since the Eighties.

The Smell of Money: Lauder, Trump Unite

WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 20046

Fabrice Weber and Donald Trump,

in Trump’s office Thursday.

Continued from page one

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NEW YORK — Aramis, the fragrance that sparked therise of the men’s prestige category in 1964, is continu-ing efforts as a division of the Estée Lauder Cos. torenew its namesake business.

A year after launching the Aramis Life brand withAndre Agassi as a spokesman, Lauder’s Aramis andDesigner Fragrances unit intends to launch a scent inconjunction with Donald Trump (see separate story onopposite page). Also, a special version of Aramis’ origi-nal scent, called Classic, has been created for this fall.

The brand that was originally inspired by JosephLauder, Estée’s husband, who wanted a product of hisown, turns 40 in a fragrance industry that’s perhapsnever been more challenged — given the maturity of theestablished U.S. fragrance market, coupled with the fre-quency of new launches in recent years. The new Aramisefforts are meant to draw focus to the brand amid a mar-ket that has been in decline in the U.S. for years.

“Anything in fragrance right now is a tough proposi-tion,” noted equity analyst William Schmitz, a vicepresident at Deutsche Bank. Considering the high costsof a launch and the follow-up support necessary to sus-tain a brand, he noted, “The economics aren’t playingout the way they should.”

According to data from NPD Beauty, a division of TheNPD Group, the men’s fragrance and skin care categoryin U.S. department stores hovers at just less than $1 bil-lion, while the women’s fragrance businessalone is nearly twice that.

The Aramis fragrance business — whichrepresents about 75 percent of what industrysources have estimated to be at least a $200million brand globally, including Lab Series— got a boost last year with the launch ofLife. The younger, more active Aramis brandfor which Agassi was signed reportedly dou-bled Aramis’ fragrance business. EstéeLauder’s president and chief executive offi-cer, William Lauder, noted in a recent earn-ings announcement that Aramis Life, in conjunction withthe company’s stalwart women’s scents, helped the cor-poration’s fourth-quarter fragrance sales rise 10 percentto $1.22 billion, an increase attributed in large part to im-proved travel retail sales.

Meanwhile, the small but rapidly growing men’sgrooming category is experiencing unprecedentedgrowth, and Aramis is trying to capitalize on that de-mand with its Lab Series brand.

Fabrice Weber, president of Aramis and DesignerFragrances, acknowledged during a recent interviewthat while the men’s prestige grooming category certain-ly has a long way to go before it reaches the critical mass— some would say saturation — displayed by the nearly$2 billion women’s skin care category, the men’s skincare market has achieved enough bulk to become viable.In years past, Weber noted, “The industry was at its in-fancy, so the numbers were fairly easy to double. I thinkwe [marketers] all are generously projecting this marketto triple or quadruple within the next five to six years.”

Aramis’ four decades in the fragrance categorynotwithstanding, the brand was ahead of the curve inthe men’s prestige grooming category when it launchedLab Series in 1987. In the last 17 years, it has watchedthe assortment grow to represent a quarter of theAramis brand’s total business. And while it may be un-told years before the prestige men’s grooming marketdevelops to the point where the nearly $50 million LabSeries brand is more than a blip on the $5.8 billionLauder corporation’s bottom line, the fact is that LabSeries is highly visible in what marketers have dubbedan “exploding” grooming market.

William Lauder emphasized during a presentation

to investors last week the “core” nature ofAramis within the company and the impor-

tance of the U.S. — an “established” market — to thecompany as a whole. He added, however, that he hopesbetween 60 and 70 percent of the company’s total busi-ness mix will come from outside of North Americawithin the next five to seven years. Weber noted thatforeign markets are already grounds for activity forseveral brands within the Aramis portfolio.

The global Aramis Classic fragrance collection in-cludes some 65 fragrance and ancillary stockkeepingunits worldwide. Besides Life and the original Classic,other fragrances in the Aramis stable include Devin,900, New West, Tuscany and JHL.

“The market has exploded in dollar terms, if youwill,” said Weber, discussing challenges on the men’sside of the fragrance business. “What we see today arethe excesses of the industry in general — there’s a defi-nite saturation in the segment due to the number ofbrands and the number of launches within each brand.”Nevertheless, Lauder also recently noted that for atleast the past 12 years, “approximately 30 percent of thesales of the Estée Lauder Cos. have been made up ofproducts launched within the last three years. We needto ensure we keep [consumers] interested with our cre-ativity and newness.”

This holds true for Aramis Classic this season, asnewness comes in the form of a return to its roots. Aspecial edition of the Aramis Classic fragrance, whichwas originally launched in 1964, was rolled out thismonth. Aramis’ U.S. distribution base comprises rough-ly 2,000 doors, Weber noted, and that number ranges ashigh as 13,000 doors globally, including travel retail. Aspecial 8.1-oz. version of the Classic scent, called thePresidential Edition, is packaged in a wooden box that

doubles as a vanity tray. Packaging will reflect the 40thanniversary tie-in and the original Aramis design. Topromote the Classic twist, a new visual is intended torenew the in-store effort. Meanwhile, Aramis continuesto support Life nationally, with print images of Agassi.

Since 2001, Aramis has hovered at around the num-ber 13 position in U.S. department stores, according toNPD. More recently, that ranking has slipped, due inpart to the influx of new men’s brands. While Aramisstill perseveres among the top 20 men’s scents, the bar-rage of men’s launches shows no signs of slowing — nofewer than 20 are on deck for this season, including theEstée Lauder brand’s Beyond Paradise for Men lastmonth, and Escada’s Magnetism for Men and HugoBoss Energize next month.

Meanwhile, Lauder continues to dominate thewomen’s side, with half of the top 10 women’s scents inU.S. department stores. Separately, in the nearly $43million men’s prestige grooming category, Aramis’ LabSeries skin care brand, which is in about 1,500 U.S.doors, was second in 2003 only to the top-ranking brandfrom Clinique: Skin Supplies for Men.

Globally, the men’s grooming market is estimated tobe in the neighborhood of $14 billion, according totracking firm Euromonitor. Paltry numbers, to be fair,compared with the total beauty category, which WilliamLauder claimed last week was an $87 billion global in-dustry, $29 billion of which is generated by prestige.

The global Lab Series collection features 38 prod-ucts, a number that varies by market. For instance, inthe U.S. — a less-developed men’s grooming market percapita than some European nations — it’s 22 sku’s.

Advertising appropriations by Aramis Inc. havebeen influenced in recent years by a proliferation ofmen’s magazines. But the publications have alsohelped the category grow with their editorial coverage,Weber acknowledged, multiplying sales and yieldingbigger ad budgets to be split among the men’s books.

Furthermore, “We will continue to [focus] ourspending in those areas of our advertising and promo-tion which fuel the growth for our brands,” Lauder toldinvestors and analysts recently.

The mass market, where the men’s grooming categoryis already “enormous,” Weber noted, whets the appetitesof male consumers to trade up to more expensive prestigebrands designed for them — especially if they perceive ef-ficacy. That’s perhaps what Lab Series, which is billed aperformance-driven collection, is best positioned to cap-ture, as the men’s prestige grooming category is expectedto continue its growth in the next several years. “A signifi-cant number of prestige consumers come from mass,”Weber noted. “So from that perspective, I don’t think we’veseen any downside yet, when we talk grooming per se.”

— Matthew W. Evans

NEW YORK — The top executives of The EstéeLauder Cos. Inc. enjoyed increases in salary andbonus for fiscal year 2004, according to Securities andExchange Commission documents filed this week.

William P. Lauder, who was chief operating officerof the company in 2004, received a 15.6 percent in-crease in salary to $1.3 million, up from $1.1 million in2003, according to a proxy statement filed with the SECon Wednesday. His 2004 bonus rose by 14.6 percent to$1.8 million from $1.5 million in 2003.

Lauder was promoted to president and chief exec-utive officer of New York-based Estée Lauder, effec-tive July 1, the date the company began its current fis-cal year. He will receive a base salary of $1.5 million

annually until June 30, 2007, according to a Form 8-Kfiled Tuesday. That’s an increase of 15.4 percent fromhis salary as chief operating officer. Lauder’s plannedbonus payout will be $2 million each year.

Fred H. Langhammer, president and chief execu-tive officer of the company in the last fiscal year,brought in a salary of $2 million, up 5.3 percent from2003. He had a bonus of $3 million, an increase of 3.4percent from the prior year.

Leonard A. Lauder, chairman of the board, had asalary of $1.8 million, also up 5.3 percent from 2003.Lauder’s annual bonus increased 3.4 percent to $1.8million.

— Meredith Derby

Estée Lauder Executives See Salaries Increase

Aramis at 40: A Challenging Age

Ted Danson was a celebrity spokesman during the Eighties.

Growing Clients’ Profits with Public Displays of Perfection

At The Royal Promotion Group, image is everything– their clients’ image that is.

Since June 1991, Bruce Teitelbaum, president of TheRoyal Promotion Group, has aggressively developed andreinforced a spotless image and lofty reputation for hiscompany. Today the privately owned firm stands over100 strong, equipped with “state-of-the-art technology

and abilities” to provide clients with all they need tocompose a visual message for their brands at retail.

“Retail is incredibly competitive. You only havea couple seconds to make a brand impression

on the customer, and sometimes in-storepresence is the only presence a brand has,”Teitelbaum shared, explaining The Royal

Promotion Group knows what it takesto make every design sell product – be it through a countertop

display, a shop-in shop concept, or an entire retail environment.When it comes to designing, developing and manufacturing displays,

collateral and retail environments, its experience has taken the companymany places. From a new health and beauty aids department in Krogerto Vera Wang’s bridal salon, the company’s experience spans a wide spectrum from mass to prestige.

When The Beauty Rules ApplyWhen FreshLook, the leader in the color contact lenses category

approached The Royal Promotion Group to develop a visual merchandising program to help reinforce their position in-store, RPG’srecommendation had a lot of people listening. The strategy was to treatthe color lenses as a beauty accessory. This seemed logical due to theirapplication and their ability to transforms one’s appearance with a singleapplication. How was a color lens different from an eye shadow?

The dramatic result was a fully-integrated display program thatranged from inexpensive window displays, hanging elements, lenticularwall signs and molded counter units to a technology-driven interactivevideo unit. The video unit (modeled after the small screens that are currently all the rage on JetBlue Airways) engaged the customer with acustom tailored video prompting them to select their own eye color.Different lens colors then appeared on the same model in music videofashion, allowing the consumer to experience the transformation ofone’s image instantly. The program, now operational in over 2,000 locations, ranging from Wal-Mart to LensCrafters to private doctors’offices, has caught the attention of both loyal and new users.

A Lifestyle Brand With A New Point of ViewMattel’s new Barbie soft line extension, appropriately named, “With

Love, Barbie”, was a priority initiative with its retail partners at Federated.The line consists of apparel, accessories, cosmetics and a new fragrance. The goal was to pull these branded products together and create alifestyle image in-store.

Enter The Royal Promotion Group. In true Barbie style, shop-in-shopsand visual enhancement items including custom fixtures, furniture andsignage, were developed to represent the brand’s lifestyle image. The innovation of selling a new fragrance in the children's apparel departmentput the fragrance floor stand front and center. The shops created an experience that could be shared by mothers and daughters alike.

Blurring The Lines Between Mass and Prestige When international prestige fashion and fragrance conglomerate Puig

set its goals high to enter the mass market with a prestige fragrance,Spirit Antonio Banderas, they called on their partners at The RoyalPromotion Group. The concept of drawing on experience from the prestige market for application within the mass sector has garnered attention and coined a new acronym “masstige”.

According to Teitelbaum, “Our expertise is drawn from all classes of trade. Crossing these lines allows us to bring bright ideas, with provensuccess, to a new category. Take a fabulous looking package and department store displays, apply them to all mass retailers from K-Martto Walgreens, and we are selling a prestige product in 20,000-plus locations.”

“We needed to be able to garner a higher price point for the fragrance,and we needed to portray that image in-store,” related Greg Black,senior marketing manager, Puig. Black added that he knew of TheRoyal Promotion Group because “they’re all over the place,” and that heunderstood the firm’s penchant for prestige and perfection. “And so weapproached Bruce (Teitelbaum) and his crew to get that prestige look,”which, he noted, was certainly achieved.

As their varied client list shows, project size or scope doesn’t matter to The Royal Promotion Group – every display is created to perfection.Continuing to bring innovation to all sectors of the market is its ultimate goal. “Good design is good design – it’s not necessarily associatedwith cost,” Teitelbaum said. He believes the innovations in the prestigecategory can be interpreted into more affordable systems for the mass industry.

Building a New Retail FutureHow does a company that seems to have done it all for clients, ranging

from Nine West and Timberland to Unilever and L’Oreal, take itsservices to new heights?

The past two years marked the opening of the new retail division thatdesigns and builds shop-in-shops and full retail stores. Now, accordingto Teitelbaum, “We can offer our partners services that range from asimple display to a full retail store.”

With clients already on board, including Vera Wang, Clarins, Gucci,Kiehl’s, Federated, Dillards, M.A.C, Carolina Herrera, Mattel,Calvin Klein, Warnaco and many more, The Royal Promotion Groupis applying its true merchandising expertise to all display categories.“Many groups can design an efficient retail space, but try to do it andeffectively sell 3,000 units of product, and you will see why so many people are relying on our expertise,” Teitelbaum explained.

The Royal Promotion Group’s retail staff consists of designers fromthe furniture and interior design industries, as well as architects andproject managers to oversee the details from start to finish. The principalof designing an effective program for each brand is a philosophy TheRoyal Promotion Group has learned well from its display experience.According to Ellen Friedman, vice president, “What works for oneclient does not necessarily work for the next. We have become extremelyskilled at interpreting lifestyle trends and applying the right look to theproject at hand.”

So what will the future bring? Look for the L’Oreal Paris’ newBeverly Center store (the first in the U.S.); a La Prairie retail store inthe Ritz Carlton, Grand Cayman; and a new store concept for H20Plus – and that’s just the beginning.

ADVERTISEMENT

The Royal Promotion Group

119 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-246-3780Key Contacts: Bruce E. Teitelbaum, president, bruceteitelbaum@royalpromo.com • Ellen L. Friedman, vice president, ellenfriedman@royalpromo.com

Barbie Macy’s Herald Square Clarins Bloomingdale’s 59th StreetVera Wang Bridal Boutique

NEW YORK — TV’s sexiest p.r. maven is turning herattention to a new beauty project.

Kim Cattrall, perhaps best known for her role asp.r. whiz — and femme fatale — Samantha Jones onHBO’s “Sex and the City,” has signed a deal with LizClaiborne Cosmetics to be the face of its new scentmasterbrand, Spark Seduction, which will belaunched this fall. Spark Seduction joins the two orig-inal Spark scents and their ancillaries, whichClaiborne launched in fall 2003.

“The tag line in our advertising featuring Kim de-scribes her as an actress, a producer and a seduc-tress,” said Art Spiro, president of Liz ClaiborneCosmetics. “She’s all those things, and more. We werelooking for someone who personified the seductivequalities of this fragrance and its launch. No onecould be better than Kim for that role.”

Added David Hirschler, vice president of market-ing for Liz Claiborne Cosmetics, “Both men andwomen view Kim as being seductive, which made herideal for this role.” Hirschler added that he and Spiroexpect Spark Seduction to be “a strong pillar” for thecompany, given “Kim’s participation, as well as thepower of the scents and their packaging.”

The print campaign, featuring Cattrall in a slinkysilver gown reclining on a pile of pillows with a come-hither expression on her face, has been shot by SanteD’Orazio. It will begin appearing in November fash-ion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, includingGlamour, Allure, Self and GQ. The scent will beginrolling out in mid-October.

In addition to her role in Claiborne’s ads for SparkSeduction, Cattrall is filming a new movie, “IcePrincess,” expected to be released in 2005.

Neither of the executives would comment on theterms of Cattrall’s contract, including its length orhow much the actress is being paid. Industry sourcesestimated, however, that Cattrall had signed on for atleast a year and is likely earning about $1 million forthe gig.

Claiborne returned to the perfumers responsiblefor the original Spark scents — Firmenich’s HarryFremont for the men’s, and Firmenich’s Jean-ClaudeDeVille for the women’s — to concoct the SparkSeduction juices. The men’s scent is a cool aromaticwith accords of white pepper, cardamom and grape-fruit, layered with a woody base of silver birch, vetiv-er, patchouli and musk. The women’s scent, a lush flo-ral, has top notes of clementine, guava and hy-drangea; middle notes of magnolia, passion flowerand tuberose, and a drydown of frangipani, apricotskin and musk.

The Spark Seduction line will include a 3.4-oz.

women’s eau de parfum spray, $52; a 3.4-oz. men’scologne spray, $52; a 6.7-oz. women’s body lotion, $30,and a 2.6-oz. men’s deodorant, $14. As well, gifts-with-purchase and holiday gift sets are planned. All will beavailable in Claiborne’s full U.S. department storedistribution, currently about 2,200 doors.

None of the executives would comment on pro-jected sales or advertising spending, although in-dustry sources estimated Claiborne is hoping forsales of $30 million at retail in the duo’s first year,with at least $5 million to be spent on advertisingand promotion.

Cattrall is the latest in a flood of celebrities enter-ing the prestige beauty market over the last year, ei-ther as faces or as creators.

— Julie Naughton

The Beauty Report WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 200410

NEW YORK — Bulgari is adding a facet toits Blu lineup.

The noted luxury jewelry and accessorieshouse, which already markets eight scents, is be-ginning to roll out Bulgari Blu NottePour Femme and Bulgari Blu NottePour Homme — two scents that com-prise the brand’s first “evening scent”masterbrand, said Bulgari execu-tives. Both scents join the firm’s Blucollection and are permanent addi-tions to the house’s fragrance lineup.

Paolo Alberti, executive vicepresident of Bulgari’s perfume andlicenses division, noted that the BluNotte scents are characterized by“deep, warm and enveloping” notes.

“[These scents] embody refinedseduction, along with the secretsand mystery of the night — the con-cept was developed around theidea of ‘nightly scents that stir thesenses,’” said Alberti.

This is a point of difference from the rest of thebrand’s portfolio, Alberti explained, adding that, forinstance, the Eau Parfumée lineup “embodies theuniverse of fresh and relaxing,” while Bulgari PourFemme, a floral scent, and Pour Homme, a woodyscent, are “an expression of timeless values, veryclose to our brand’s jeweler’s heritage.”

It’s not the first time the brand has done a riff on itsBlu masterbrand. In October 2002, the company did alimited-edition women’s scent called Absolute Blu,calling it a “winter scent” — a takeoff from most com-

panies’ “summer” limited editions. At $62 for1.3 oz., it was actually $7 more than the

women’s Blu scent, which executives said wasdue to its higher concentration of essential oils.

Both Blu Notte scents include flo-ral and food accords and have galan-ga and dark chocolate notes in com-mon. Blu Notte Pour Femme is builtaround vibrant galanga and iris notes,accented by vodka and dark choco-late notes. Blu Notte Pour Hommeis built around an accord of galan-ga and tobacco flower, surroundedby dark chocolate and wenge woodnotes. Both juices were created byFirmenich’s Alberto Morillas.

The rollout consists of two eauxde toilette: a 1.7-oz. men’s versionfor $50 and a 1.3-oz. women’s ver-sion for $60.

The duo is rolling out to Macy’sand will enter Bloomingdale’s andNeiman Marcus in October. By

yearend, both scents are expected to be in 300 doors inthe U.S., with another 200 doors to be added byyearend 2005, said Alberti. While Alberti wouldn’tcomment on projected first-year sales, industrysources estimated the masterbrand would do about$50 million at retail globally in its first year on counter.

Bulgari plans to distribute about five million sam-ples globally in the scent’s first year on counter. Thisincludes scented pieces promoting both fragrances, aswell as catalogue advertising and Internet sampling.

— J.N.

NEW YORK — Biotherm is out to add a peel to its skincare lineup.

The brand is set to launch Line Peel, what its cre-ators call “a wrinkle-reducing cream with peel per-formance,” in December.

“This product truly merges biology and technology,”noted Roberta Weiss, senior vice president of market-ing for Biotherm, adding that Line Peel is also kickingoff an effort by Biotherm to emphasize the brand’s sci-entific heritage. “Most of the other products of this type[currently on the market] are much harsher and are notdesigned to be used every day. Line Peel is exceedinglygentle — it offers performance without pain.”

It also taps into a key strength for the brand: skin care,which industry sources believe accounts for as much astwo-thirds of the estimated $25 million in sales thatBiotherm currently does in the U.S. Line Peel could add $1million or more at retail to that total, said industry sources.

Key ingredients include micro-crystallized silicium,which is said to help aid the skin’s natural peeling processand stimuline, a proprietary complex, which also aids theprocess, said Lucien Aubert, manager of Biotherm’s re-search laboratories and a doctor of biochemistry. Siliciumis combined with a proprietary mineral-rich concen-trate, intended to calm and equalize the skin, and apri-cot and rice bran oils, said to soothe and hydrate skin.Extract of thermal plankton, Biotherm’s signature in-gredient and one which is in all of the brand’s products,is intended to further soothe the skin.

“This product has the same effect as those whichcontain a 10 percent solution of glycolic acid, yet is gen-tle enough to be used twice a day,” said Aubert, addingthat optical ingredients also “immediately offer a cos-metic benefit.”

Line Peel will retail for $40 for 1.69 oz., and will be oncounter on Dec. 26, a day that is rapidly becoming beau-ty’s favorite launch day for one simple reason: “By thattime, women are done buying gifts for others and arelooking for items for themselves,” said Chris Harrison,Biotherm’s general manager. The product will be avail-able in Biotherm’s full U.S. distribution, currently about150 U.S. department and specialty store doors, includingselect Macy’s, Burdines, Foley’s and Nordstrom doors,and is expected to appeal most strongly to women intheir late twenties and early thirties — those who arefirst recognizing aging, but don’t want to subject theirskin to a harsh medical process, explained Aubert.

While the brand does not currently place nationaladvertising, co-op efforts with major retailers areplanned at launch, said Weiss. As well, more than300,000 direct mailers — part of a brand brochure thatwill also involve a pre-selling campaign — and 25,000samples, including those disseminated at counter andin skin care gift sets, are planned. In-store events willalso be part of the mix, said Weiss.

Line Peel will also be sold on Biotherm’s Web site,www.biotherm-usa.com, beginning on Dec. 26. The Website, a new venture for the brand, will go live Oct. 1,marking the first time that the brand will be availableonline, said Harrison.

The new Internet initiative and an emphasis on thebrand’s scientific heritage with Line Peel are just twoinitiatives out of several on the front burner for thebrand, a division of beauty giant L’Oréal. As reported,Biotherm is also rolling out a men’s initiative to about40 of its U.S. doors, aimed at increasing its hold in themen’s market, and will open its first U.S. retail store inL.A.’s Glendale Galleria in early November. New pack-aging initiatives and “other surprises” are on tap forBiotherm in the coming year, promised Harrison.

— J.N.

Biotherm’s New Wrinkle

Bulgari Makes Scents for Evening

Liz Claiborne Seduces Kim Cattrall

The Spark Seduction ad featuring Kim Cattrall.

The ad for Biotherm Line Peel.

BULG

ARI P

HOTO

BY

STEP

HEN

SULL

IVAN

The men’s half of Bulgari’s new

masterbrand.

NEW YORK — Grant Berry, the creator ofStyli-Style, is thinking small.

No, he’s not planning on miniscule salesincreases. Rather, his products are beingdesigned to create a cute quotient. “Minisare in,” said Berry, showing off his latestitem, Ink Pots.

Taking a cue from everything tiny— from iPods to cars — the InkPots are 4.5-oz. pots of eyeliner.They may be small, but they are po-tent. According to Berry, the formu-la is designed to last up to 24hours. Ink Pots are available inbrown and black and retail for$6.50. They join Kajal, aminibullet eyeliner also offeredby Styli-Style.

Berry, who hit upon a uniqueitem last year with Flat Pencil, a flat eye- and li-pliner, has not only been downsizing products, he’salso getting inspiration from art supply stores: Thepots look like inkwells.

Another item takes its cue from crafts, Lip Stains,which resembles a highlighting marker. The stains areavailable in six colors and promise to last for eighthours. Also priced at $6.50, Lip Stains can be wornalone or under a lip color. A special introductory dis-play allows for the Ink Pots to be merchandisedstacked on top of the stains.

“The lip products should do very well,” said a buyerfor a chain that stocks Styli-Style. “Lips are hotnow.” The buyer also likes the brand’s fix-tures, which “are not typical of mass market.”

Berry is also relaunching Line and Seal, alip product that “sets” lip color for long wear.“This is part of our L3 products which arelong-wearing. Line and Seal will be re-launched with a 24-hour claim. Today, formu-la is the name of the game,” added Berry.

With small, but unique, launches, he isadding to his item count with a goal of wallspace. CVS, Harmon, Longs and DuaneReade are among the chains carrying Styli-Style on a permanent basis.

Retailers agreed that clever packagingand new colors used to be enough tolure shoppers. Now, educated con-sumers demand products deliver more.Industry sources estimate Styli-Style’sunique products will help nudge thecompany from sales of about $12 mil-lion to more than $16 million in 2005.

Styli-Style is also sold in beauty supplystores. “We don’t want to be

in every drugchain or every

store within achain. We want to add exclusivity to a store,” said Berry.

● ● ●

Town and Country Apothecary in Ridgewood, N.J.might be just a one-store operation, but that doesn’tstop it from being a force in the beauty business. LastSaturday, hundreds of shoppers came to the store tobe pampered by beauty care experts from Phyto, GetFresh and Paula Dorf. Dorf personally attended theevent to oversee more than 50 makeovers.

“I hate to see people not wearing makeup,” saidDorf. “That’s why we have our makeup artists do halfof the face and the customer learns how to do theother half herself. A percentage of purchases were do-nated to Gilda’s Club of New Jersey of which Dorf is aboard member. Baskets, donated by companies includ-ing Lancôme and Darphin, were auctioned off withthe proceeds also going to the local club located inHackensack, N.J.

Town and Country is also planning a major renova-tion of the store to include more space for beauty.Diana Dolling-Ross, who heads up the department,plans to add an area for facials and other services, aswell as expand the premium accessories stocked inthe store, including candles, ponchos and handbags.Town and Country sells premium brands includingEstée Lauder and La Mer.

The store appeals to the well-heeled clientele in thisupscale New Jersey town. Although several shoppingmalls are minutes away, consumers prefer the conven-ience of the downtown locale, said Dolling-Ross.

11WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 2004

WWW.WWD.COM

Critical MassBy Faye Brookman

By Molly Prior

NEW YORK— Almay thinks women could use a little therapy. No, not the kind thatrequires a visit to the doctor’s office or even a trip to the local designer boutique.Almay is talking about color therapy.

The company’s new eye collection, Intense i-Color, slated to debut in early-2005,aims to take the guesswork out of selecting the most flattering eye shadow shades —ones that promise to make eye color pop.

There’s a reason why a bronze, summer tan makes blue eyes sparkle, or a plum-colored sweater enhances brown eyes, said Kevin Kells, vice president of marketingfor Almay. “The theory underneath it is called ‘color therapy,’” explained Kells,adding that a precise combination of contrasting colors — those that sit opposite fromeach other on the color wheel, and complementary hues, will intensify eye color.

Kells said in the past women would have had to ask a department store beautyadviser for a tutorial on the concept. However, just as sister brand Revlon hasstrived to do through its recent advertising campaign, Almay’s new collection aimsto pilot prestige thinking into the mass retail channel.

In fact, one of the driving forces behind the collection, aside from adding a littledrama to the eyes, is to make mass market cosmetics easier to shop, said Kells.

Prestige cosmetics sales, which hinge on customer service, have maintainedhealthy growth, while mass cosmetics sales continue to drag.

Prestige makeup sales within U.S. department stores rose 4 percent to $2.6 bil-lion in 2003, according to NPD Beauty, a division of The NPD Group, a market infor-mation company.

Total cosmetics sales in the mass retail channel, excluding Wal-Mart, slid 2.4 per-cent to $2.8 billion during the current period, according to Information Resources Inc.

Drugstores, well aware they are losing consumers to department stores becauseof the confusion of shopping mass cosmetics, have fixated on facilitating conversionin the cosmetics aisle.

“We know there are things we can do to make the shopping experience easier,”said Kells.

Now, as far as Almay is concerned, selecting the most appropriate eye shadowshades will be as simple as walking into a drugstore, navigating the cosmetics walland stopping at Almay’s display space. There, the consumer will find simple, color-ful signs that read, “Bring Out the Blue,” “Bring Out the Brown,” “Bring Out theHazel” and “Bring Out the Green.”

To simplify product selection, Almay has organized Intense i-Color into four colorfamilies: blue, brown, hazel and green. Each family consists of three items: a paletteof three powder shadows and an eyeliner for $6.99 each, and a mascara said tolengthen lashes up to 50 percent, for $7.49.

“The beauty of this collection is that it all works together in three steps. We took acomplicated notion and made it simple,” noted Kells, adding, “You don’t have to useall three products, but you’d get the bluest blue or brownest brown if you did.”

The hope is that by emphasizing that particular marketing message, Almay willencourage beauty shoppers to place all three items in their basket. The brand is gear-ing up for its largest marketing campaign in a decade, said Kells. While he declinedto talk about the brand’s ad budget, he did say spending would be up “significantly.”Television ads featuring Almay spokesmodel Elaine Irwin-Mellencamp, who has blueeyes, will begin in January, followed by print ads, Internet and in-store promotion.

While Almay declined to comment, industry sources project the collection willgenerate $20 million to $30 million in retail sales its first year. “If [Intense i-Color]meets our expectations, it will be one of our biggest franchises in the Almay family,”declared Kells.

Almay’s Bright Eyes collection — which during the last few years has grown to in-clude a liner, two cream shadows, mascara and waterproof mascara — could reach$28 million.

Retailers will merchandise Intense i-Color along the beauty wall and on promo-tional countertop displays until planograms are reset in the spring. “All of our topcustomers have got it in their planogram for first quarter 2005,” noted Kells.

The colors that make up the collection — blue sapphire and copper for blue eyes;brown topaz and pink for brown eyes; beige and lilac for hazel eyes; and sage andraisin for green eyes — mimic the same color palette touted by prestige brands.

The application techniques, featured on product packaging and on Almay’s Website, also borrow from prestige.

“The application is key when you apply the entire collection on your eye,” em-phasized Sharon Naioti, senior product manager for Revlon. She explained womenought to apply the contrasting shade — which in the “Bring Out the Blue” collectionis copper — on the eyelid, the midtone complementing shade in the crease of theeye, and the lightest complementing shade on the brow bone for luminosity.Eyeliner, also a contrasting shade, should rim the eye. Mascara, a complementaryhue, should coat the lashes.

The eye collection is in line with the runway makeup looks showcased at thespring fashion shows: bold eyes, offset by a bare pout. It also seeks to bolster Almay’sstanding in the eye category, where the Maybelline and Cover Girl brands dominate.

Almay Makes Bold Move in Eye CategoryThe Almay Intense i-Color collection

promises to make eye color pop.

Styli-Style’s Thinking Big by Going Small

Inset: New products from Styli-Style.

Above: Diana Dolling-Ross and Paula Dorf.

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The HBA Report

By Andrea Nagel

NEW YORK — High-end hair appliances aren’t just appealing to thepros. Apparently, the masses also want the technologically advancedtools to get their hair dried faster and to make locks appear shinierand smoother.

HairArt, maker of the T-3 Tourmaline Hairdryer, is finding con-sumers are even willing to spend up to $200 on a blow-dryer, $50above the price professionals pay. The T-3 launched exclusively insalons in February, with an eye solely toward the professional mar-ket. But its innovative design has grabbed a bigger audience.

“The main difference is the use of tourmaline, which is injectedinto the dryer’s different components,” said Kent Yu, co-owner ofHairArt, which is based in Rancho Dominguez, Calif. Tourmaline, asemiprecious gemstone, Yu explained, is a mineral similar to a mag-net, in that it has a natural electrical charge. Tourmaline, however,has an ionic charge that eliminates static electricity. The technologyis also credited with drying hair very quickly, so the dryer doesn’tneed a heavy motor. More than $500,000 was invested into develop-ing the 13-oz. blow-dryer.

“Traditionally, dryers use a lot of torque or air flow to dry hairfaster,” Yu said, adding that tests show the T-3, which uses a smallmotor, dries hair 60 percent faster than traditional dryers.

In addition to a modest global salon distribution — about 2,000U.S. salons carry the T-3 dryer— specialty stores such as Fred Segalin California and Harrods in London also carry it. According to Yu,additional beauty retailers, such as Ulta, are looking into carrying T-3 products, too.

“These retailers are really into catering to their customers, whowant top-of-the-line beauty products,” Yu said. An article in Peoplemagazine discussing T-3’s celebrity hairstylist appeal, he said, putthe line in front of the consumer. The T-3 is used by Orlando Pitaand Guido and Eugene Souleiman, as well as by hairstylists for TyraBanks and Debra Messing.

Pita, who used the dryer throughout New York Fashion Week,plans to stock his new Meatpacking District salon, set to open nextmonth, with T-3 appliances. “I think the heat system that they usehelps you get the hair straighter and smoother, and when used in con-junction with the brushes, which are made with a ceramic core, itheats up the core so it’s like using a hot roller set,” Pita said. Not onlywill stylists use the products, but Pita will also sell T-3 items at retail,since many of his clients ask where they can purchase the items.

Yu is pleasantly surprised by consumers’ reactions.“Our roots are in the professional industry, so we wanted to make

top-of-the-line tools for them. I guess consumers, being the way theyare nowadays, they want [them] as well,” Yu said.

HairArt, a 20-year-old company founded by Yu’s father, Jackie, alsomakes shampoo, conditioners, scissors, capes and plastic goods usedin salons. T-3 is the newest division of HairArt, and is now the fastestgrowing one. In just six months, T-3 already generates about 25 per-cent of the company’s global sales. “We’ve really discovered a niche in

high-end appliances and tools, [a category] which hasbeen overlooked by other companies,” said Yu.

T-3 is expected to generate $4 million in U.S. sales bythe end of the year, and global sales of T-3 products areexpected to exceed $25 million by the end of the year.Overall, Yu expects the company to post 50 percent salesincreases for 2004. Historically, the company’s sales havegrown 10 percent per year.

The next evolution is the T-3 Domed Iron, which is de-signed with a rounded plate so it can both curl and straightenhair. Also using tourmaline in the design of the ceramic heat-ing plates, the iron reaches temperatures of 410 degrees; ordi-nary irons reach only 356 degrees. Despite the heat, Yu said,damage to hair is minimal. The T-3 iron retails to the pro-fessional market for $120 and for $150 to consumers. It ispackaged in a mat that the iron can rest on betweenstyling hair sections.

Then there’s the Wet to Dry Iron, which straightens anddries wet hair in just one pass. Channels and vents in theiron’s design allow steam to escape from the iron.

“It’s really wild,” said Yu. Wet to Dry retails to professionals for $150 and for $200 to con-

sumers. It is equipped with a swivel cord for easy handling. There is also a brush line, which uses tourmaline in

the bristles to make hair antistatic. The brushes, whichhave ceramic barrels, are designed to be used with ahair dryer. Brushes will range in price from $15 to $25.

In addition to being a part owner of the company, Yuheads up T-3’s research and development division, wherehe works closely with engineers to develop products. Heis responsible for T-3’s patented tourmaline technology.

Prior to joining HairArt, Yu worked as a technology an-alyst at Solomon Brothers in New York and San Francisco.He later moved to California’s Silicon Valley to work in thetelecommunications field. He became involved in the beautyindustry when his father expressed a desire to take the com-pany to the next level. An analysis of the salon in-dustry — and what it lacked — led Yu to beginthinking about a heat appliance line.

“There really was an opportunity in high-endappliances. Not to disparage anybody, but com-panies like Conair and [Helen of Troy] are mak-ing very generic products. We actually have en-gineering backgrounds, so for us this is relative-ly — well, not easy, but it’s what we do,” Yu said.

Now that the company has tapped the generalmarket, there seems to be no holding back on in-creasing the public’s awareness of T-3’s products.Most recently, T-3 participated in New York’s FashionWeek by sponsoring the House of Diehl fashion show.T-3 blow-dryers also made it into MTV’s gift baskets.

WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 200412

WWW.WWD.COM

NUDE SHADE: PlayboyEnterprises plans to rollout an 80-stockkeeping-unit color cosmetics lineat select Sephora USA

and Bloomingdale’s stores in the U.S. and Canada next March. Among the products:the usual lipsticks and lip glosses, eye shadows, pressed powders and mascaras, and— in keeping with Playboy’s image — Edible Body Shimmer Powder. Prices rangefrom $12 to $15, noted Kirk Summers, chief executive officer of High Maintenance,which holds the license for Playboy cosmetics. Summers added he expected first-yearretail sales to be $1.2 million, based on an initial 30 doors and online sales.

MARKWINS MOVE: Markwins Beauty Products, a division of Markwins International,has appointed Matt Allen to the position of vice president of sales. Allen, who mostrecently served as vice president of sales for Del Laboratories, will oversee sales formass market beauty brands Wet ‘n’ Wild, Black Radiance, Tropez and Artmatic inhis new post. He will report to Jim Koeppl, senior vice president and generalmanager of Markwins. Allen’s career also includes 10 years at Target Corp.

HAIR JORDAN: Michael Jordan’s hair and shave line will beginentering Rite Aid stores in October. The multisku line, packagedin bright red plastic containers and emblazoned with theathlete’s silhouette, will include both hair styling products, such

as a pomade, and shaving products, such as an aftershaveskin toner. Prices are still being determined.

WAXIN’ AND ROLLIN’: Shobha waxingand threading studio has begun

using rollers to treat larger waxingareas on the body. Keeping trueto Shobha’s sanitary style, thestudio will offer each client herown roller to be used on eachvisit. Shobha, which is located in

SoHo and on Madison Avenue inManhattan, will clean and store the

roller between visits.

SNIPPETS

Items from Michael Jordan’s hair and shave line.

NEW YORK — One of the U.S.’s best-at-tended beauty trade shows is gearing up todraw even larger crowds to its three-dayevent next week.

HBA Health & Beauty America, whichkicks off Tuesday at the Jacob K. JavitsConvention Center here, is getting readyfor Inside Beauty, a new one-day confer-ence that will focus on the well-being andneutraceutical craze now being linkedwith the beauty industry. HBA is expectingmore than 16,000 attendees and 575 ex-hibitors to its show.

In conjunction with NutraceuticalsWorld Magazine, HBA will analyze one ofthe industry’s most influential and emerg-ing trends: beauty from the inside out. Theconference, which takes place at 10:30a.m. Tuesday, aims to provide cutting-edgecontent for the nutraceuticals market andhow marketers can better address thisburgeoning area.

The conference will begin with a sessioncalled High Speed Trends on Track: Health& Wellness Enhancing Beauty, which willcombine the latest market trends with thelatest regulatory developments, and com-pare and contrast the regulations andclaims of the dietary supplement worldwith those of the personal care world.

The second conference session, from 1to 3 p.m., will feature nutritional and natu-ral products expert Anthony L. Almada,

BS, MS, president and founder ofIMAGINutrition, who will discuss whetherconsumers can achieve cosmeceutical ef-fects by taking products internally.

The second topic in this track will dis-cuss findings from a recent report titled“Obesity in America: Understanding theWorld of Weight Management From aConsumer Perspective,” and how to usethe results to tailor products for the healthand beauty consumer.

Dr. Barry Sears, Ph.D., author of thebest-selling book, “The Zone,” will con-clude the session with a presentation oncombating inflammation.

The final session runs from 3:30 to 5p.m. and will discuss how companies aremarrying health and beauty, and whatneeds to be accomplished to take this mar-ket to the next level.

HBA will also debut an interactiveshowcase created by International Flavors& Fragrances and Visionaire. The twocompanies have combined photographyand fragrances to create an artistic won-derland, to provoke both visual and olfac-tory senses. Leading perfumers incorpo-rated notes not usually found in per-fumery, creating their interpretation of thesmell and scent of cold, noise and heat.The exhibit is set up at the entrance toHall 3B in the Crystal Palace during HBA.

— A.N.

HBA Aims to Be More Than a Trade Show

Masses Crave High-End HeatersHair Art’s T-3 blow-dryer,

brushes and irons.

T-3

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NEW YORK — What do “Wanderlust,” “My Old Man” and“Lads” have in common? Nothing, except that their au-thors — Michael Clinton, Amy Sohn and Dave Itzkoff,respectively — all work in the magazine industry. Here’swhat they had to say about their books and their inspi-rations. — Jeff Bercovici and Sara James

Michael Clinton, Hearst Magazines’ executivevice president and an amateur explorer andphotographer, shares his travel essays andpersonal photographs in “Wanderlust:One Hundred Countries, A PersonalJourney.” The book hits stores the secondweek of October.

WWD: You’ve been to 100 countries and seven conti-nents. What have you learned?Michael Clinton: Perspective, appreciation, patience,tolerance. No matter where you are, a small islandin Fiji, or the streets of Cuzco, Peru, we allhave similarities as people. We all have thesame things we look for in our lives.

WWD: What do you look for in a travelingcompanion?MC: They have to be adventurous. Theyhave to go with the flow. They have tobe able to enjoy the unexpected —that’s what happens when you go toplaces like Bhutan.

WWD: What’s the most unexpected eventyou’ve had to deal with on your travels?MC: We were on a boat on the Mekong Delta, and wecame to a border checkpoint. Our papers were fine,but they wouldn’t let the boat through. We ended up

hiring a local fisherman who took us three miles upriv-er to Phnom Penh.

WWD: Sounds like a J. Peterman anecdote. Do you everget comparisons to the “Seinfeld” character?

MC: All the time.

WWD: What’s next?MC: 101, 102 [countries]...Next year, I’ll begoing to the Baltic States, Latvia,Estonia. In the near future, NewGuinea. When you’re lucky enough tofind a lifelong passion and it continuesto sustain you, why stop?

Amy Sohn writes the biweekly column“Naked City,” about sex and relation-

ships, for New York magazine. Its fre-quency will increase to weekly beginning

Oct. 11. “My Old Man,” her second novel, isabout a female rabbinical school dropout who falls inlove with an older man.

WWD: The copy on your book’s dust jacket comparesyou with Philip Roth. Is that a comparison you wouldencourage?Amy Sohn: Who do you think writes that copy? PhilipRoth is a genius and much more talented than I am,but I think the reason for the comparison is mybook deals with a dysfunctional Jewish familyand there’s a lot of over-the-top sex comedyand a very intense father-daughter relation-ship, so a couple of reviewers have talkedabout “Portnoy’s Complaint.”

WWD: Have any reviewers used the dread-ed term “chick lit”?

AS: I’ve been asked a lot about chicklit. I tried hard with this book to

make sure it would reach a male au-dience as well as female, but youcan’t reject the female audience becausewomen buy a lot of books. The reason somany writers cringe at being called chicklit is because so many of those bookshave happy endings, or make it seemthat once you find a man your life is per-

fect. This definitely isn’t that type of book.

WWD: You’ve been writing “Naked City” forthree years. Are you starting to run low on

material? AS: I keep thinking I am going to run out of ideas and itjust never seems to happen. People are constantly giv-ing me suggestions. There’s no dearth of horrible rela-

tionship stories in New York City.

WWD: If you fought a cage match with Candace Bushnell,who would win? AS: I think I would because I train at a boxing gym.

“Lads: A Memoir of Manhood” is a pathetically funnytell-all about Dave Itzkoff ’s days as an editor at Maximand Details (which at the time was a unit of Condé Nast,part of Advance Publications Inc., parent of WWD).Itzkoff is now an associate editor at Spin.

WWD: Why did you write your book as a memoir insteadof changing a few names and calling it a roman à clef, aseveryone else seems to do?

Dave Itzkoff: The roman à clef format has been beaten intothe ground. It was done really well once when it was called“The Bell Jar.” Then it was done slightly differently, let’ssay, when it was called “The Devil Wears Prada.” Betweenthose two paragons of the genre there’s no reason to goback to it. Also, the particular story I’m trying to tell is verymuch grounded in reality and what’s happening right now,and there seemed to be no point in trying to tell that ifeverything’s fake.

WWD: Speaking of “The Devil Wears Prada,” does itbother you to be described as another Lauren

Weisberger, but with better legs?DI: It puts an obligation on me to have to

live up to that. I’m worried about havingto afford the Nair. But if I could equalthose sales, I’d be flattered.

WWD: Now that you’ve written a tell-all,do your co-workers wait until you leavethe room to do their gossiping?

DI: It’s a fair question, but everybody atthe magazine was well aware of what I was

doing, even before I started writing the book.I think they understand pretty well that there

are universes of difference between Maxim and Spin.

WWD: You’ve been pretty critical of Maxim and its ilk.But why shouldn’t men have the same right as women toread brainless magazines?DI: One doesn’t really justify the other. There was a timeonly a few decades ago when the women’s magazineswere not just respectable but really prestigious. It’skind of shaming to think that they’ve squandered thataway so quickly. For the longest time I think the men’smarket resisted that impulse. In a sense, the floodgateshave opened now. The problem is not just that Maxim isa bad magazine, but that so many other competitorswould try to imitate its badness.

13WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 2004

Media/AdvertisingWWW.WWD.COM

ISN’T IT ROMANTIC:Relationship writing isnot exactlysynonymous withthoughtful journalism,a point that is not loston Elise O’Shaughnessy,editor of the newmagazine Tango. “It’s afield that’s full of

truisms and even, somewhat, dishonesty –people wanting to see things the way theythink they should be,” she said. ButO’Shaughnessy, who spent five years asexecutive editor of Vanity Fair, is looking to dosomething smarter: a magazine that addressesthe differences between men and womenwithout resorting to battle-of-the-sexesclichés. In fact, she added, much of therelationship writing worth reading —admittedly a scarce commodity — appears inmagazines like Men’s Health and Maxim.Um…Maxim? “Those guys are not apologizingfor what they feel,” she said. “In that sense,they’re more honest about it.”

Tango, which debuts in February, is the

brainchild of Andrea Miller, a ColumbiaBusiness School graduate who spent fouryears working for pre-scandal Enron in India.For a first-time media entrepreneur, Miller hasassembled a seasoned team: BesidesO’Shaughnessy, there’s publisher EllenAbramowitz, former publisher of Seventeen,and creative director Patrick Mitchell, foundingdesigner of Fast Company. She’s also formedpartnerships with Newsweek, which will helpout with production, and dating Web sitePerfectmatch.com. Miller won’t say where herbacking comes from, but she already hasadvertising commitments from Gucci and LizLange Maternity. The biggest obstacle may beTime Inc., which is developing a relationshiptitle of its own. Still, despite the notoriouslyhigh failure rate for new magazines, the oddson Tango look to be at least as good as thoseof a first marriage. — Jeff Bercovici

FASHION TUBE: French Elle is extending itsbrand to television. The fashion weekly willlaunch daily coverage of Paris Fashion Weekon the Paris Premiere cable network startingin October. “The idea is to bring the spirit ofElle to television,” said Veronique Philipponnat,Elle’s editor in chief, who is heading the TVproject. “We’ll show the trends and the people,but do it in our own impertinent voice.” To wit:Philipponnat said Ines de la Fressange will co-

anchor with her this season. “Each time, we’llinvite a personality to give their own spin to theshows.” Slated to air five times a week fourtimes a year to match the couture and ready-to-wear calendars, Elle’s show roughly replacesParis Premiere’s old Paris Modes program —headed by Marie-ChrIstiane Marek — which wasaxed earlier this year. But unlike Marek’s show,which also followed Milan, London and NewYork, Elle will only cover Paris. — Robert Murphy

SHARE THE WEALTH: Forbes released its annualForbes 400 list of the richest AmericansThursday night, and overall, the haves of thefashion and beauty world are doing very, verywell. Philip Knight of Nike came in at number22 with $7.8 billion. Leonard Lauder, with a$3.2 billion net worth, was at 55, while RonaldLauder came in at 102 with $2.1 billion. RalphLauren’s $2.7 billion was good enough for aspot at 72. After splitting up their Gapholdings and giving blocks of shares to each oftheir children, brothers Robert and John Fisherstill tied at 165. Meanwhile, Sidney Kimmel ofJones New York, who was on last year’s list, didnot make the cut this year. “You had to have$750 million to even be considered for the listthis year,” said a Forbes spokeswoman.“[Kimmel’s] overall net worth was up, but hejust couldn’t keep pace with the rest of thelist.” Among media tycoons, Sumner Redstone

was tops with $8.1 billion, good for number20. S.I. Newhouse Jr. and Donald Newhouse,chairman and president, respectively, ofAdvance Publications Inc. (parent of WWD),were tied at 25 with $7.0 billion apiece. Justbelow that was Rupert Murdoch at number 27with $6.9 billion, and Michael Bloomberg, at34, with $5 billion. — Sara James

ONE FOR THE LADIES:Men’s Health is oftendescribed as the firstwomen’s magazine formen. That wouldmake Women’sHealth, which goes onsale Oct. 5, the firstwomen’s magazine formen for women. True

to its name, it’s a near-perfect clone of Men’sHealth, down to the abs-alicious cover photo(although these abs belong to a woman, prosurfer Holly Beck). The 128-page issue wasedited by Kristina M. Johnson, a formerexecutive editor of Teen People who isfreelancing for Rodale. It will have anewsstand-only distribution of 450,000, witha follow-up planned for January. Rodale iscalling it a test for now, but watch this space:The last Men’s Health spin-off, Best Life, wentbimonthly after a single trial issue. — J.B.

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MILAN — With the opening of its Chenot spa coming up in April, Byblosmay be regarded as yet another fashion company set to diversify into thehotel business.

But Chenot is looking to appeal to the visual senses as well, by in-stalling contemporary works by artists such as Vanessa Beecroft, AnishKapoor, Peter Halley and Sol LeWitt. The pieces belong to the Facchinifamily, the owners of Swinger International, the apparel manufacturerthat bought the Byblos brand from Prada three years ago.

“Art has always been a part of my life,” said Mathias Facchini, chiefexecutive officer of Swinger International.

The works will be displayed in the common areas of the resort, which isa few miles outside of Veroca in an18th century villa owned by thefamily. The villa is named VillaAmistà after the counts who ownedit until the Fifties.

As if food for the mind were notenough, Facchini plans to attractguests with a high-profile chef,whose name is still under wraps,and renowned health-care pro-

grams by well-being guruHenri Chenot. The 65-roomresort, which will cover216,000 square feet, includ-ing a garden and a winecellar, will be designed bythe Italian neo-modern and

contemporary architectAlessandro Mendini.

“We will combine and juxta-pose contemporary design withthe villa’s historical style,” saidFacchini, who expects to attract opera lovers, who regularly flock toVerona’s arena.

Facchini said the company plans to set up exhibitions and pressevents in connection with the Byblos brand, but that this project stemsprimarily from the family’s passion for art.

“We, as other fashion companies, have diversified in product cate-gories ranging from perfumes to eyewear, and we feel we need to ex-plore new paths, not necessarily connected to our core business, as ourlifestyles evolve and are affected by different and increasingly varied in-puts,” said Facchini. “There is a desire to represent styles and valuesnot necessarily connected to fashion.”

— Luisa Zargani

Byblos Brings Art to the Sauna

THAT’S THE TICKET:Parsons School ofDesign is about to makeits own political state-ment in the form of anexhibit of voting boothsreimagined by a group of50 artists, architects anddesigners called “TheVoting Booth Project.”

The division of NewSchool University plansto open the show to thepublic on Oct. 8 withbooths designed by a castof politically minded indi-viduals such as DavidByrne, Frank Gehry, MayaLin, Richard Meier andDiane von Furstenberg —each with a different takeon the electoral process.

David Rockwell created a combustible booth made from wood splints and ricepaper, evoking the idea of “playing with fire.” Robert A.M. Stern Architects submitted awork called “Hindsight 20/20,” which is covered in rearview mirrors, a reference to howthe events of the past four years would have played out if the narrow 2000 presidentialelection had a different outcome. Alex Isley, a graphic designer, turned a booth into apuppet show that has President Bush wielding a baseball bat at an opponent’s head.

Adding another layer of meaning to the work, the original booths came fromFlorida, where they were used in the 2000 election, according to the school. DeanPaul Goldberger acquired the booths as a donation from André Balazs, the hotelierand companion of Uma Thurman, who bought dozens of them at a Miami flea mar-ket. The artists were each given a booth and asked to respond to it however theywished. The results were guest curated by Chee Pearlman, director of Chee Co., aneditorial and design consulting firm.

AWARDING DESIGN: Amanda M. Burden, chair of the New York City PlanningCommission, was named design patron for the 2004 National Design Awards to beheld on Oct. 19.

Burden, whose current projects include the redevelopment of downtownBrooklyn and the transformation of the Fresh Kills landfill in Staten Island into amultiuse park, joins a roster of honorees at the annual event staged by theSmithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum. Previously announcedaward recipients include Milton Glaser and the Aveda Corp., as well as nominees forawards in five additional categories.

WWW.WWD.COM

PARIS — Droog Design is best known for building an elegant chandelierout of 85 ordinary white light bulbs, but that’s nothing compared withwhat the Amsterdam-based collective of designers has done to illuminateto the world what’s been happening in modern Dutch design.

Since Droog was founded 11 years ago by design critic Renny Ramakersand jewelry maker Gijs Bakker, the collective has kept the design world en-thralled by transforming and combining everyday objects into whimsical,mind-bending creations, many of which are on display in an exhibit thatopened recently in Lille, France, called “Open Borders.” The show, whichruns at the city’s Tri Postal cultural space until Nov. 28, also features designand art from other companies that were admired by the Droog designers.

“We look for ideas that [run contrary] to mainstream culture,” saidRamakers. “We search for innovation and projects that communicatedevelopments in society in a playful way.”

Droog’s iconic 1993 chandelier is exhibited alongside unusualworks by British artist Marta de Menezes Graca, who modifiesthe wing patterns of butterflies by stimulating their cocoons,and Arnhem-based designer Floris Schoonderbeek, who creat-ed a bathtub heated by an open fire. Also on display is Frencharchitect Edouard François’ project to “dress up” a banalParisian apartment building with giant pots of bamboo, whileartists Su-Mei Tse and Jean-Lou Majerus contributed a pair ofheadphones formed from seashells.

“The way [Droog] was started was really a [boost] for Dutch design,”said Jurgen Bey, an Amsterdam-based designer whose “LampshadeShades” are displayed in Lille. “At the time, Droog brought many youngdesigners together giving them better European exposure.”

Loic Bigot, owner of the trendy Tools gallery in Paris, said, “It’s un-contestable that Droog Design was the precursor for the popularity ofDutch design. They revolutionized objects by demonstrating how it couldbe reconverted or reinvented.”

But Bigot is now on the lookout for the next phase from Droog, whichopened its first store in Amsterdam this month.

“They developed a system, but they have to be careful not to get tooconfined in it,” he said.

Added Bey, “Newness is very difficult in design. You have to resetyourself. I am very interested to see how they will grow and develop.”

— Emilie Marsh

On The Drawing Board

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Here: The “Dutchtub” by Floris Schoonderbeek.

Above: Room of Prize vases by Wieki Somers.

Here: The “Dutchtub” by Floris Schoonderbeek.

Above: Room of Prize vases by Wieki Somers.

“Lampshade Shades”

by designer Jurgen Bey.

“Lampshade Shades”

by designer Jurgen Bey.

“Tower Flower Building” by architect Edouard François.“Tower Flower Building” by architect Edouard François.

A voting booth by Alex Isley and Robert A.M. Stern’s

“Hindsight 20/20.”

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WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 200416

By Rusty Williamson

DALLAS — Hispanic talk show star CristinaSaralegui, who presides over a media empire thatincludes a magazine as well as the daily TV pro-gram, is adding fashion to her résumé.

She plans a spring launch of the moderate-priced Cristina Sportswear collection, licensed toSutton Creations, New York, a supplier of privatelabel active and casual apparel for women, menand children. Terms of the deal were not disclosed.

Saralegui’s status among Hispanic women, espe-cially target consumers ages 35 and above, may pushretail sales of the Cristina Collection to $10 millionto $15 million from July 1, 2005, to June 30, 2006, saidAbe Sutton, president of Sutton Creations.

Sutton, with annual sales of more than $10 mil-lion, produces clothing for more than 80 compa-nies, including Nordstrom, May Co. and Kmart. Asmany as 300 department and specialty retailers areanticipated to pick up the line the first year.

Hispanic consumers spent about $8.2 billion onwomen’s apparel in the 12-month period that endedJuly 31, up 10 percent from the year before, accord-ing to NPD Fashionworld, a research companybased in Port Washington, N.Y. Hispanics registeredthe biggest percentage increase in spending on ap-parel among a handful of racial and ethnic groups.

“Cristina is a very strong and unique individualwho understands a woman’s opinion, and that itmatters and deserves to be heard and expressed,’’Sutton said. “She conveys a real passion for life thatwomen identify with. She feels that it’s very impor-tant that fashion fits into a woman’s lifestyle. Sheknows that apparel also has to be comfortable andshe’s very much involved in the design process.”

Saralegui, 56, who immigrated to Florida fromCuba in 1960, is the host of “The Cristina Show’’syndicated by Univision. She launched her month-ly magazine, Cristina La Revista, in 1991, and alsohas a radio program. She could not be reached forcomment.

The 50-piece spring collection will retail for $20

to $50, and include embellished jackets, tunics and avariety of bottoms. “We’re showing lots of color, art-inspired prints, embellishment such as sequins,beading and appliqués and comfortable fabrics withLycra for movement. Cristina is very adamant thatshe will not put anything in the line that she will notwear,” said Ivonne Camacho, vice president of mer-chandising at Sutton Creations, who is also the col-lection’s designer.

“The Hispanic marketplace is the largest minor-ity group in the U.S., with a population of 43.5 mil-lion,” said Kathy Foley, vice president of licensingat Sutton Creations. “And until now, there hasn’t re-ally been any major apparel line that targets themisses’ Hispanic apparel shopper. There are plen-ty of junior lines that go after younger women suchas Daisy Fuentes at Kohl’s, Thalia at Kmart andJennifer Lopez, among others. ‘’

Camacho said because of the growing impact ofLatin culture “we expect non-Hispanic women tobe drawn to the line, as well.’’

Saralegui also plans to unveil a signature 75-piecefurniture collection at the High Point, N.C., marketin October inspired by her Miami home. PulaskiFurniture Corp. of Pulaski, Va., is the licensee.

Cristina Saralegui Unveils Apparel Line

Inspirations for and looks from the Cristina line.

LAURYN LABEL: Clearly,songstress Lauryn Hillwas taking diligent notesall those times she sat in

the front row at Giorgio Armani’s shows. She was spotted on Thursday atParis’ Première Vision textiles show, coming out of the booth set up byReggiani, the high-end Italian mill known for stretch wovens. When askedthe obvious question these days: Are you doing your own line, she said,“I’m thinking about it. I’m here doing research.”

PINNING AIDS: Many people have discussed many things at the rooftop bar of60 Thompson, but perhaps few with as much passion and information asAshley Judd on the AIDS crisis.“This isn’t a cause, this is aglobal emergency,” the actresssaid after speaking in a paneldiscussion downstairs on behalfof YouthAIDS, an organizationthat brings AIDS awareness toteens and young adults. Judd,who is YouthAIDS globalambassador, was joined by hersister Wynonna, Carlos andDeborah Santana, Dido, TeenPeople managing editor AmyBarnett, MAC chairman JohnDemsey, BMG president andchief operating officer CharlesGoldstuck, YouthAIDS director Kate Roberts and jeweler David Yurman, whodesigned a pin and pendant benefitting YouthAIDS. Roberts saluted BMG’sand MAC’s efforts in fund-raising and AIDS awareness. The MAC AIDSFoundation was established 10 years ago and has since raised $37 million.

One hundred percent of sales of Yurman’s silver YouthAIDS pin andpendant will be donated to the organization. The pieces will be carried startingtoday at all David Yurman boutiques, select Saks Fifth Avenues,Bloomingdale’s and Marshall Field’s and on neimanmarcus.com. They willretail for $100. “It’s the gift that gives twice,” Roberts said before mentioningthat it costs $10 to educate and protect one person. Judd quickly did themath and emphatically chimed in, “No, it’s the gift that gives 10 times.”

SAKS LADIES: With President Bush, John Kerry and more than 100 worldleaders in New York for the United Nations General Assembly, gettingaround Manhattan on Monday may have been a little challenging. Butobstacles never get in the way of the city’s top socialites, especially when itcomes to a little charity and retail therapy. So a group of well-heeled womencame to Saks Fifth Avenue to toast Jamee Gregory, Leslie Jones and LaviniaSnyder on behalf of the 16th annual preview party for The International FineArt and Antique Dealers Show, which benefits The Society of MemorialSloan-Kettering Cancer Center. They included Shoshanna Gruss, Muffie PotterAston, Bettina Zilkha, Joanne de Guardiola, Coco Kopelman, Alexandra Lind-Rose, Hilary Geary, Emilia Fanjul, Somers Farkas and Karen LeFrak.

Fred Wilson, Saks Fifth Avenue’s chairman and chief executive officer,teamed with Graff ceo Henri Barguirdjian and Bill Blass ceo MichaelGroveman to host the luncheon and Blass spring fashion show, which wasaccessorized with glittering Graff jewels.

“One of the great perks aside from raising money for Memorial Sloan-Kettering is that I get to wear Graff jewelry at the opening,” quippedGregory,” and what could be more fun?”

REEL LIFE: It’s a scene familiar to many Chanel employees: a man and hismistress shopping for sexy black dresses in the Madison Avenue boutique.But when the couple in question is Graydon Carter and Susan Sarandon andthe scene is in the upcoming Jude Law flick “Alfie,” it’s cause forcelebration. On Tuesday night at Soho House, Chanel hosted a screening ofthe film for members of the fashion press, who included Harper’s Bazaar’sGlenda Bailey and Vogue’s Grace Coddington. The crowd, clearly amused byall the sartorial references, let out a collective laugh when Law’s characteradmits that he’s “a bit of a fashion whore.” Director Charles Shyer’sdaughter, Annie Meyers-Shyer, who just happens to work in the accessoriesdepartment at Bazaar, introduced the film. “I don’t know what’s moreexciting for me,” she said. “To be introducing my father’s film or gettingmy first Chanel jacket.” Well, it was borrowed, but a girl can try.

FASHION PLATÉE: When the New York City Opera stages its revival ofRameau’s comic opera ballet “Platée” beginning on Tuesday, the companywill have a heightened sense of levity thanks to Isaac Mizrahi.

Mizrahi designed costumes for the production, first staged at the CityOpera in 2000, which retells the French baroque satire of the frog princessPlatée. To teach his jealous wife Juno a lesson, a character named Jupiterpretends to court the vain frog princess, ultimately teaching the gods thetrue meaning of trust and Platée humility.

“The reason I adored working on ‘Platée’ was because (a) I adore themusic and (b) Irelate to her, thefrog queen,”Mizrahi said.“Somewhere it’smy life story, livingin a swamp, beingtricked by the godsand goddesses.”

“Platée,”featuring Jean-PaulFouchécourt in thetitle role anddirected andchoreographed byMizrahi’s friendMark Morris, willbe performedthrough Oct. 16.

WWW.WWD.COM

Fashion Scoops

Ashley Judd wearing the YouthAIDS

pendant, with David Yurman.

Performers in “Platée.”

For more information on advertising, contact Patrick Kruchten, account manager, at 212-630-3620 or your WWD sales representative.

Source: CMR and PIB 2003

WWDMediaWorldwide®

From the trends and strategies to the newsmakers and the deals, WWD editorswill take an in-depth look at the issues driving the media and advertising industries.

Timed to the crucial media planning season, this is an efficient and strategic investmentfor any media company looking to claim their share of the billions of dollars that will

be spent on fashion, retail and beauty advertising in 2005.

WWDMedia In DepthSection II: October 15

Close: September 29

Get Your Share.

By Michelle Dalton Tyree

LOS ANGELES — Wal-Mart, launching an aggressive new public rela-tions strategy just weeks after chief executive officer Lee Scott said thecompany had failed to communicate its message, took full-page ads in 15California newspapers in an effort to refute criticism of its expansion inthe state.

The unprecedented blitz by the world’s biggest retailer, which wantsto build 40 Supercenters in California in the next several years, was inthe form of an open letter.

Under the heading “A Letter from Wal-Mart to the people ofCalifornia,’’ the Bentonville, Ark.-based company said it “has become atarget for negative comments from certain elected officials, competitorsand powerful special interest groups. While we are always willing toconsider constructive criticism, much of what has been said publiclyabout Wal-Mart in California is simply not true.”

The campaign comes as Wal-Mart, which had sales of $256 billion lastyear, seeks to blunt opposition to its growth in lucrative markets in themost populous U.S. state. The company’s Supercenters, which combine atraditional Wal-Mart store with a supermarket and are as big as 200,000square feet, have come under fire in California and other states by oppo-nents who say that the retailer hurts small businesses, pays unfairwages, causes more crime and traffic and discriminates against women.

Wal-Mart is also facing the biggest workplace discrimination lawsuitin history — involving 1.6 million current or former workers — based ona complaint initiated by several female employees. The company is ap-pealing the decision. In addition, the retailer also has been sued overthe hiring of illegal aliens who worked in cleaning crews. Wal-Mart saidit was unaware of the practice and blamed a subcontractor.

The ads, which appeared on Thursday in The Los Angeles Times, theSan Francisco Chronicle, the San Diego Union-Tribuneand other newspapers, said Wal-Mart pays competitivewages in California that average $10.37 an hour, offersmedical coverage to full- and part-time employees, gener-ated more than $650 million in California sales tax revenuelast year and is a major part of the state’s economy in areasas diverse as agriculture, entertainment and technology.

“We are going to continue to be aggressive in our re-sponse and making sure that our message is getting out,”said Bob McAdam, Wal-Mart vice president for govern-ment relations. “While we have responded before [to criti-cism], the messages haven’t gotten through to media andin turn our customers.”

McAdam, who acknowledged that the campaign was a first for Wal-Mart, declined to dis-cuss other plans for community outreach, saying, “You are going to see us being more ag-gressive....What is changing is how we talk about ourselves.”

Wal-Mart’s decision was a necessity if it is to move ahead with its growth strategy,said David Stewart, a professor of marketing at the University of SouthernCalifornia’s Marshall School of Business. “The criticism is kind of unprecedented, sothe response may be unprecedented as well,” he said. “Not responding is not an op-tion unless they are going to withdraw.”

The company set up media stations at five different Wal-Mart stores across the re-gion and made available both Wal-Mart spokesmen and store associates.

“In some respects it’s also for the people who work at Wal-Mart as much as for thegeneral population,” said Richard Giss, partner in the consumer business practice ofDeloitte Touche LLT. Giss predicted the campaign will have little impact on commu-nities because the battle is won in consumer dollars, not newsprint. “If people didn’tlike the store, they wouldn’t shop there. But they actually do shop there,” he said.

In April, voters in Inglewood, Calif., a Los Angeles suburb, voted to reject a ballotinitiative that would have allowed construction of a 60-acre Wal-Mart. Opposition wasled by a coalition of unions, churches and community groups.

Inglewood Mayor Roosevelt Dorn, who supported Wal-Mart, said: “Let’s face it,

when you have a city that needs, number one, the employ-ment, and you have a development that would bring an esti-mated $3 million to $5 million in sales tax to the city, howcan you turn your back on that kind of development?”

Earlier this month the city council in Rosemead, a munici-pality about 12 miles east of downtown Los Angeles, voted 5 tonothing to allow construction of a Wal-Mart Supercenter.Opponents of the plan said they would seek to recall the entirecouncil. Wal-Mart officials said the store would bring $600,000 inannual sales tax receipts to the city as well as create 300 jobs.

In Los Angeles, the City Council has voted to approve ameasure that would require community impact reports for any proposed retail spaceof 150,000 square feet or more.

Councilman Ed Reyes, a Wal-Mart critic, said, “The general public, especially LosAngeles, will realize that [the media campaign] is a p.r. stunt.” He said that, inCathedral City, Calif., “Wal-Mart came in, promised jobs and benefits and then leftwhen it was no longer profitable,’’ leaving a devastated downtown.

Speaking at a Goldman Sachs retail conference on Sept. 9, ceo Scott said: “Whatwe have found is that there is a different group of stakeholders today that are impor-tant, and that is a person who’s not familiar with Wal-Mart Stores, they’re not familiarwith what we stand for. So their view of Wal-Mart Stores is what they read in thenewspaper and what they see on TV. We have decided it is important for us to reachout to that group.’’

Goldman Sachs analyst George Strachan said in a written statement that Wal-Mart’s strategy is a “reversal in approach as they shift from being intensely insular toespousing a nationwide outreach program determined to uphold their reputationalimage all the while remaining focused on delivering the best value to the customer.’’

Wal-Mart is amenable to changing its game plan if communities insist on it,McAdam said.

If the opposition is “a minority, we’re prepared to fight back, but if it’s a broad-based opposition then we have to rethink whether we should be there.”

WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 200418

“We are going to continue tobe aggressive in our responseand making sure that ourmessage is getting out.”

— Bob McAdam, Wal-Mart Stores Inc.

WWW.WWD.COM

Wal-Mart States Its Case in California

By Nola Sarkisian-Miller

LOS ANGELES — The ENK International’s West Coast event, Brighte, plans to expand toLas Vegas from Los Angeles, heating up the gambling mecca’s crowded trade-show circuit.

ENK, the New York-based organizer of Fashion Coterie, Intermezzo, Accessories Circuit,Children’s Club and Sole Commerce, intends to stage biannual Brighte shows focusing oncontemporary lines beginning in February to coincide with MAGIC International.

The event will feature denim and T-shirts, along with lifestyle clothing,loungewear, accessories, shoes and spa items. The show, whose exact location will beset soon, will reach a new retail customer, said ENK president Elyse Kroll.

“We don’t see them in New York and we don’t see many of them in L.A.,” she said.Lured by the growing importance of the West Coast market and the success of the

contemporary-focused Designers & Agents show, Brighte started in L.A. for the fall2003 market and has attracted vendors from both coasts, including A.B.S. by AllenSchwartz, Ana Capri, Follow Your Bliss and 7 Slade. The show ups the style ante witha vivid yellow and white color scheme, tray-passed hors d’oeuvres and lounge seating.It attracted about 62 exhibitors and 1,500 people in August.

Brighte is not the first event seeking to piggyback on the coattails of MAGIC, whichattracts about 90,000 people. In the last four years, a number of splinter shows havejoined the Las Vegas party, including Pool, ISAM and ASAP. Some hit their stridequickly. Pool, known for its indie designers and laid-back atmosphere where linessimply display clothing on racks, grew to 400 exhibitors at its most recent incarnationat the Mandalay Bay Convention Center.

MAGIC officials declined to comment. For now, Kroll said she doesn’t plan to poach vendors from MAGIC or Pool, and is

trying to spread the message about the new event. “If they want to participate on adifferent level, then they will step up to the plate,” she said.

By Evan ClarkNEW YORK — There’s been some reshuffling at the Michael Kors executive offices.

Anne Gorfinkle, who was vice president of women’s design for the new MichaelMichael Kors better line, is now working at the company on a part-time basis, andDean Micklewhite, vice president of men’s design for Michael, has resigned.

A company spokeswoman admitted that the timing of the departures was“strange” given that the much heralded better line just rolled out to stores lastmonth and has yet to prove its potential.

“These are two people who Michael loves and admires and respects andwould have kept forever,” she said.

Gorfinkle will consult for the company and spend more time with her family.“She’s working on a very special, major design project for us,” said the

spokeswoman, declining to be more specific.Micklewhite said he resigned to catch a breather and spend more time with

his two daughters after long hours in the design studio.“It’s been very hectic working here,” he said. “I’m going to take some time to

figure out what I want to do and that’s probably going to mean leaving New York.”Stepping up is Lance LePere, who was promoted to executive vice presi-

dent, creative director of women’s design, overseeing both the collectionand the better businesses. He had been senior vice president, creative di-rector of just the collection.

LePere oversees Alex Shuman in the collection area and Suzanne Barnhartin better, each of whom was promoted to vice president from design director.

On the men’s side, Tim DeSalvo has taken on the title of senior vice presi-dent men’s design. He had been senior vice president of men’s collection de-sign. Maria Dziedzic was promoted to vice president of men’s for the better line.Dziedzic had been director of merchandising for the men’s collection.

ENK Making Move to Las Vegas Role Changes in Kors’ Design Room

A shopper in the parking lot

at the opening of a Wal-Mart

Supercenter in LaQuinta,

Calif., in March.

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19WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 2004

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