masina de cusut brother innovis 20 manual

8/10/2019 Masina de Cusut Brother Innovis 20 Manual

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Operation ManualComputerized Sewing Machine

GETTING READY

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX


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Important Safety Instructions

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the mThis machine is intended for household use.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1Alwaysunplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after u

when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual,

machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or

2Alwaysunplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing cowhen making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual: To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol O position t

the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do notpull on the cord.

Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extensi

Alwaysunplug your machine if the power is cut.

3 Neveroperate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not wbeen dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the ma

authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or

While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, suc

discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and u

When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle.

machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the mach

cause injuries.

When lifting the sewing machine be careful not to make any sudden or


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4 Alwayskeep your work area clear:

Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilatsewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and

Do notstore objects on the foot controller.

Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical

Neverdrop or insert anyobject into anyopening.

Do notoperate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where o

administered.

Do notuse the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherpower cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an elec

Do notplace this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an uns

otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

5 Special care is required when sewing: Alwayspay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged ne Keep fingers away from allmoving parts. Special care is required around

Switch the sewing machine to the symbol O position to turn it off when

in the needle area.

Do notuse a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the ne

Do notpush or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction

so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.

6This machine is nota toy: Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near ch

The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept

children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to

suffocation.

Do notuse outdoors.

7 For a longer service life: When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locat

the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot object


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8 For repair or adjustment:

If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow th

in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yo

persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this m

Save these instructions.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com


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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CY

IMPORTANT In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to B

mark, rating as marked on plug.

Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitt

If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with t

should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

FOR USERS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEThis sewing machine is not intended to be used by young children, and assisused by a person with a disability.


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Contents

Important Safety Instructions ..........................................................

Contents ..........................................................................................

Introduction ....................................................................................

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ..................................Machine ................................................................................................................

Needle and presser foot section ..........................................................................

Operation buttons .................................................................................................Operation panel ....................................................................................................

Flat bed attachment .............................................................................................

Accessories ......................................................................................Included accessories ............................................................................................

Optional accessories ............................................................................................

1. GETTING READY ...............................................................

Turning the Machine On/Off ...........................................................Power supply precautions ....................................................................................Turning on the machine .......................................................................................

Turning off the machine .......................................................................................

Preparing for Upper and Lower Threading ......................................Winding the bobbin ..............................................................................................

Installing the bobbin .............................................................................................

Threading the upper thread ..................................................................................

Threading the needle ...........................................................................................

Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ...................Using the twin needle ...........................................................................................

Replacing the Needle .......................................................................Needle precautions ..............................................................................................

Needle types and their uses .................................................................................

Checking the needle ............................................................................................

Replacing the needle ...........................................................................................

Replacing the Presser Foot ...............................................................

Presser foot precautions ......................................................................................Replacing the presser foot ...................................................................................

Removing the presser foot holder ........................................................................

Using the optional walking foot ............................................................................

Useful Functions ..............................................................................Changing the needle stop position .......................................................................

Ch i h i i i l dl i i


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Adjusting the thread tension .................................................................................

Useful Sewing Tips ...........................................................................Trial sewing ..........................................................................................................

Changing the sewing direction .............................................................................

Sewing curves ......................................................................................................

Sewing thick fabrics .............................................................................................

Sewing thin fabrics ...............................................................................................

Sewing stretch fabrics ..........................................................................................

Pulling up the bobbin thread ................................................................................

3. UTILITY STITCHES .............................................................

Overcasting .....................................................................................Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot J ................................................Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot G .......................................

Basic Stitching .................................................................................

Blind Hem Stitching .........................................................................

Buttonhole Stitching ........................................................................Button sewing .......................................................................................................

Zipper Insertion ...............................................................................Inserting a centered zipper ...................................................................................Inserting a side zipper ..........................................................................................

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ..........................................Stretch stitching ....................................................................................................

Elastic attaching ...................................................................................................

Appliqu, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching .........................................Appliqu stitching .................................................................................................

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ...........................................................................Piecing .................................................................................................................

Quilting .................................................................................................................

Free-motion quilting .............................................................................................

Reinforcement Stitching ..................................................................Triple stretch stitching ..........................................................................................

Bar tack stitching ..................................................................................................

Decorative stitching ........................................................................

Fagoting ...............................................................................................................Scallop stitching ...................................................................................................

Smocking .............................................................................................................

Shell tuck stitching ...............................................................................................

Joining ..................................................................................................................

Heirloom stitching .................................................................................................

Using the side cutter (optional) ............................................................................


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Introduction

Thank you for choosing this product.Before using this sewing machine, carefully read Important Safety Instructions, andthe correct operation of the various functions.In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quireference.

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions

Machine

a Bobbin winder (page 15)Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.

b Spool pin (page 15, 20)Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.

c Thread tension dial (page 49)Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of theupper thread.

d Bobbin-winding thread guide and pretension disc(page 15)Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the

t i di h i di th b bbi th d

k HandwheelTurn the handwheel towaraise or lower the needle.

l Main power switch (pageUse this switch to turn the

m Power supply jack (pageInsert the plug on the powjack.

n Foot controller jack (pagInsert the plug on the endi t th f t t ll j


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Needle and presser foot section

a Needle threader leverUse the needle threader t

b Buttonhole leverLower the buttonhole levand bar tacks.

c Presser foot holderThe presser foot is attache

d Presser foot holder screwUse the presser foot holdfoot holder in place.

e Presser footThe presser foot applies psewing. Attach the approselected stitch.

f Needle plate coverRemove the needle plate

and race.g Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fah Quick-set bobbin

Begin sewing without pui Bobbin cover

Remove the bobbin coveinto the bobbin case.

j Needle plate

The needle plate is markestraight seams.

k Needle bar thread guidePass the upper thread throguide.

l Presser foot leverRaise and lower this levefoot.

m Needle clamp screw

Use the needle clamp scr


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Operation buttons

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine ope

a Start/stop button

Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. Themachine sews at a low speed at the beginning of sewingwhile the button is continuously pressed. When sewingis stopped, the needle is lowered into the fabric. Fordetails, refer to Starting to sew (page 44).

b Reverse/reinforcement stitch buttonPress the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sewreverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reversestitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down tosew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches

are sewn by sewing 3 to 5For details, refer toSecur

c Needle position buttonPress the needle position needle. Pressing the butto

d Sewing speed controller

Slide the sewing speed coadjust the sewing speed.Slide the sewing speed cothe sewing speed, or slideright to increase the sewi

Operation panel

The operation panel, located on the front of thesewing machine, allows you to select a stitch andspecify how the stitch will be sewn.

a LCD (liquid crystal display)The number of the selected stitch (1), the presser footto be used (2), the stitch length (mm) (3), and thestitch width (mm) (4) are displayed here.

b S i h l h k ( 42)

Flat bed attachm

The accessories are storedflat bed attachment.

a Swing the lid of thetoward you to open


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Accessories

After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any itemcontact your dealer.

Included accessories

The following items should also be included in the box.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

10.* 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16.

19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24.

26.** * 75/11 2 needles

90/14 2 needles90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle(gold colored)

** The

depe

Part Code

Note(For U.S.A. only) Foot controller: Mode

This foot controller camodel NS40.

The screw for the presthrough your authorize(Part code: XA4813-05


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Attaching the stitch pattern plate (for models equipped with the stitch pThe stitch pattern plate shows the stitches and the stitch numbers. A letter (A, G, Jpresser foot that should be used appears below the stitch number. Attach the stitc

pattern plate holder, and then attach the holder to the handle of the sewing machillustration below.

Optional accessories

The following are available as optional accessories.

1. 2. 3.

4. 5. 6.

8. 9. 10.

No. Part NamePart Code

No. Part NameU.S.A./Canada Others

1 Side cutter SA177 F054(XC3879-002) 7 Non stick foot

F016N


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1 GETTING READY

Turning the Machine On/Off

This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.

Power supply precautionsBe sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using othresult in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the

the power supply jack on the machine. Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circums

When you are away from the machine After using the machine When the power fails during use When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connect

During electrical storms

WARNING

Use only the power cord included with this machine. Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other ap

them. Fire or electric shock may result. Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Alremove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, orshock.

Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject ththings may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock If the cor

CAUTION


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GETTING READY

Turning on the machine

Prepare the included power cord.

a Make sure that the sewing machine is turnedoff (the main power switch is set to ),and then plug the power cord into the powersupply jack on the right side of the machine.

b Insert the plug of the power cord into ahousehold electrical outlet.

a Main power switchb Power cord

c Press the right side of the main power switchon the right side of the machine (set it to |).

The sewing lamp and the LCD come onwhen the machine is turned on.

Turning off the m

When you are finished usturn it off. In addition, befmachine to another locat

a Make sure that the

b Press the left side ofthe right side of the

The sewing lam

when the mach

c Unplug the power coutlet.Grasp the plug whecord.

d

Unplug the power c

supply jack.

Note If a power outag

machine is beingsewing machine cord. When resta

follow the necesoperate the mach(For U.S.A. only)

This appliance hblade wider thanrisk of electrical


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Preparing for Upper and Lower Threading

Winding the bobbin

Wind the thread onto the bobbin.

a Turn on the sewing machine.

b Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaftso that the spring on the shaft fits into thenotch in the bobbin.

d Swing up the spoolspool cap.

a Spool pinb Spool cap

e F ll i t th

Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)) designed specificalmachine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the mac

The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbare used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbintype (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).

CAUTION

a b

ca Thb O

c 11(a

b


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GETTING READY

f Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.With the slightly rounded side of the spool cappositioned toward the left, slide the spool cap

onto the spool pin as far as possible to the rightso that the spool is moved to the right end ofthe spool pin.

Memo When sewing with fine, cross-wound

thread, use the small spool cap, and leave asmall space between the cap and the spool.

a Spool cap (small)b Spool (cross-wound thread)c Space

When using thread that winds off quickly,such as transparent nylon thread or metallicthread, place the spool net over the spoolbefore placing the spool of thread onto thespool pin.If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit thesize of the spool.

When the spool net is used, the tension ofthe upper thread will slightly increase. Besure to check the thread tension. For details,refer to Adjusting the thread tension(page 49).

gWhile holding the spull the thread withpass the thread und

a Thread guide

h Pass the thread undfrom the back to thHold the thread wit

there is no slack in tand then pass the thguide cover with yo

a Thread guide co

i Pull the thread to thhook of the bobbin-then wind the threabetween the discs, possible.

a

c b

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1


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j While using your left hand to hold the threadthat was passed through the bobbin-windingthread guide, use your right hand to wind the

end of the thread clockwise around thebobbin five or six times.

k Pass the end of the thread through the slit inthe bobbin winder seat, and then pull thethread to the right to cut it.

a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-incutter)

The thread is cut to a suitable length.

lSlide the sewing speed controller to the right

to increase the bobbin winding speed andslide to left to decrease.

m Press (start/sto The bobbin sta

thread is woun

a Start/stop button

nWhen the bobbin wpress (start/stomachine.

o Cut the thread, slidto the left, and thenthe shaft.

Memo When the sewin

handwheel is turthread around thmake a clicking malfunction

Be sure to cut the thread as described. If thebobbin is wound without cutting the thread

using the cutter built into the slit in thebobbin winder seat, the bobbin may not bewound correctly. In addition, the thread maybecome tangled in the bobbin or the needlemay bend or break when the bobbin threadstarts to run out.

a

CAUTION

When the bobbin winthe machine, otherwmay be damaged.

CAUTION


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GETTING READY

Installing the bobbin

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

a Press (needle position button) once ortwice to raise the needle, and then raise thepresser foot lever.

b Turn off the sewing

c Slide the latch on thcover to the right, abobbin cover.

a Bobbin coverb Latch

d Insert the bobbin wthe thread unwindspull the thread firmleft hand.

a Tab

Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound,otherwise the needle may break or the threadtension will be incorrect.

The bobbin was designed specifically for thissewing machine. If bobbins from othermodels are used, the machine will not operate

correctly. Use only the included bobbin orbobbins of the same type (part code: SA156,SFB(XA5539-151)).

a This modelb Other modelc 11.5 mm (7/16 inch) (actual size)

Before installing the bobbin or replacing theneedle, be sure to turn off the sewingmachine, otherwise injuries may occur if thestart/stop button is accidentally pressed andthe machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

a b

c

Be sure to hold downfinger and install the unwinds in the correthe needle may breawill be incorrect.

a

a

CAUTION


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e Lightly hold down the bobbin with your righthand, and guide the thread through the slot,and then pull it toward you to cut it with the

cutter.

a Slotb Cutter

The cutter cuts the thread. Make sure that the thread is correctly passed

through the flat spring of the bobbin case. Ifit is not inserted correctly, reinstall thebobbin.

a Flat spring

Memo The direction for feeding the bobbin thread is

indicated by marks around the needle platecover. Be sure to thread the machine as

indicated.

f Reattach the bobbiInsert the tab in the bobbin cover (A), a

right side (B).

Memo You can begin se

the bobbin threabobbin thread bethreading the mathread accordingPulling up the b

a

b

a

A


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GETTING READY

Threading the upper thread

In this section, the procedures for installing the spool for the upper thread and threaddescribed.

aTurn on the sewing machine.

bRaise the presser fo

When threading the machine, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper thcorrectly, the thread may become tangled and the needle may bend or break.

The needle threader can be used with sewing machine needles 75/11 through

Use appropriate thread and needle combinations. For details on appropriate ncombinations, refer to Needle types and their uses (page 30).

Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker cannot be used with the needle th The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle. If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to Threading the needle manually

needle threader) (page 26).

a

b

CAUTION


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c Press (needle position button) once ortwice to raise the needle.

a Needle position button If the needle is not correctly raised, the

sewing machine cannot be threaded. Checkthat the mark on the handwheel points up asshown in the illustration below. If thehandwheel is not in this position, be sure topress the needle position button to raise theneedle before continuing the procedure.

a Mark on handwheel

d Swing up the spool pin, and then remove thespool cap.

a Spool pinb Spool cap

e Fully insert the spoonto the spool pinSlide the spool onto

horizontal and the tat the bottom.

a

a

b

If the spool is not pothread unwinds corrbecome tangled arouthread or needle may

If the spool cap that

spool, the thread mathe notch in the spoobreak.

CAUTION


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GETTING READY

f Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

Memo When sewing with fine, cross-wound

thread, use the small spool cap, and leave asmall space between the cap and the spool.

a Spool cap (small)b Spool (cross-wound thread)c Space

When using thread that winds off quickly,such as transparent nylon thread or metallicthread, place the spool net over the spoolbefore placing the spool of thread onto thespool pin.

If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit thesize of the spool.When the spool net is used, the tension ofthe upper thread will slightly increase. Besure to check the thread tension. For details,refer to Adjusting the thread tension(page 49).

gWhile holding the spull the thread withpass the thread und

a Thread guide

h Pass the thread undfrom the back to thHold the thread withere is no slack in out, and then pass t

guide cover with yo

a Thread guide co

i Thread the machinealong the path indicmachine.

a

c b

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1


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j Slide the thread into the thread take-up leverfrom the right to the left.

a Thread take-up lever

Memo If the needle is not raised, the thread take-

up lever cannot be threaded. Be sure topress the needle position button to raise theneedle before threading the thread take-up

lever.

k Pass the thread behind the needle bar threadguide.The thread can easily be passed behind theneedle bar thread guide by holding the threadin your left hand, and pulling the thread into

the guide from right to left.

a Needle bar thread guide

l Lower the presser foot lever.

Threading the ne

This section describes ho For models equippe

disk

a Pull the end of the passed through theto the left (A), and front (B) through th

disk.

a Thread guide dib Thread guide

a

a

a

B


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GETTING READY

b Cut the thread with the thread cutter on theleft side of the machine.

a Thread cutter

Note When using thread that quickly winds off

the spool, such as metallic thread, it may bedifficult to thread the needle if the thread iscut.Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter,

pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) ofthread after passing it through the threadguide disks (marked 7).

a 80 mm (3 inches) or more

c Lower the needle thside of the machinethe lever to its orig

a Needle threader The thread is p

the needle.

Note

If the needle wasbut a loop in theeye of the needlethrough the eye oend of the thread

a

1

When pulling out thewith extreme force, obreak or bend.

a

CAUTION


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d Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end ofthe thread through the presser foot, and thenpull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread

toward the rear of the machine.

a 5 cm (2 inches)

The upper threading is finished.Now that the upper threading and thelower threading are finished, you areready to begin sewing.

Note If the needle is not raised, the needle

threader cannot thread the needle. Be sureto press (needle position button) to raisethe needle before using the needle threader.

For models without the thread guide disk

aWhile lowering the needle threader lever,hook the thread onto the guide.

b Catch the thread on

a Needle threader

c Raise the needle ththe end of the threathe eye of the need

d Raise the presser fothe thread through pull out about 5 cmtoward the rear of t

a

Be careful not to pulor it may bend the n

a

CAUTION


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GETTING READY

Threading the needle manually

(without using the needle

threader)

When using special thread, thread with a thicknessof 130/20 or thicker, the wing needle or the twinneedle which cannot be used with the needlethreader, thread the needle as described below.

a

Thread the machine to the needle bar thread

guide. For details, refer to Threading the upper

thread (page 20).

b Lower the presser foot lever.

a Pressor foot lever

c Pass the thread through the eye of the needlefrom front to back.

d Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end ofthe thread through the presser foot, and then

Using the twin n

With the twin needle, youof the same stitch with twupper threads should havquality. Be sure to use thespool pin.For details on the stitchestwin needle, refer to Stitc

a Twin needleb Extra spool pin

a Install the twin nee For details on insReplacing the ne

bThread the upper th For details, refer t

Threading the up

c Manually thread thupper thread.P th th d th

a

a

Only use the twin ne121). Use of any othneedle or damage th

Never use bent needeasily break, possibly

The needle threader twin needle. If the newith the twin needlemay be damaged.

CAUTION


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d Insert the extra spool pin onto the end of thebobbin winder shaft.

e Install the thread spool and thread the upperthread.

Memo When setting the thread spool, set it so that

the thread winds off from the front of thespool.

f Thread the upper thread for the right side inthe same way that the upper thread for theleft side was threaded.

a Thread guide cover For details, refer to stepathroughjof

Threading the upper thread (page 20).

gWithout passing the thread through theneedle bar thread guide, manually thread the

h Attach zigzag foot For details on chato Replacing the

iTurn on the sewing

The LCD come

j Select a stitch. For details on selSelecting a stitch

For details on thewith the twin neeSettings (page 89

k Press (Needle

a Bobbin winder shaft

b Extra spool pinc Thread spool

1

When using the twinzigzag foot J, othebreak or the machine

After adjusting the stthe handwheel towa(counterclockwise) adoes not touch the phits the presser foot,break.

CAUTION

CAUTION

GETTING READY


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GETTING READY

l Start sewing. For details on starting to sew, refer toStarting to sew (page 44).

Two lines of stitching are sewn parallelto each other.

Note When using the twin needle, the stitches

may become bunched together, depending

on the types of thread and fabric that areused. If this occurs, increase the stitchlength. For details on adjusting the stitchlength, refer to Adjusting the stitch lengthand width (page 42).

When changing the sewing direction, press

(needle position button) to raise theneedle from the fabric, and then raise thepresser foot lever and turn the fabric.Otherwise the needle may break or themachine may be damaged.

Do not try turning the fabric with the twinneedle left down in the fabric, otherwise theneedle may break or the machine may bedamaged.

CAUTION


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Replacing the Needle

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragmentsread and carefully follow the instructions below.

Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend thmachine.

Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in inj

CAUTION

GETTING READY


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GETTING READY

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thfollowing table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that

Memo The smaller the thread number, the thicker

Fabric Type/ApplicationThread

SType Weight

Mediumweightfabrics

Broadcloth Cotton thread6080

Taffeta Synthetic thread

Flannel,Gabardine

Silk thread 50

Thin fabrics

Lawn Cotton thread6080

Georgette Synthetic thread

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50

Thickfabrics

Denim Cotton thread 3050

Corduroy Synthetic thread5060

Tweed Silk thread

Stretch

fabrics

JerseyThread for knits 5060

B(g

Tricot

Easily frayed fabrics

Cotton thread5080

Synthetic thread

Silk thread 50

For top-stitching

Synthetic thread

5060Silk thread

CAUTION


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Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangeroussince the needle may break while the machine isbeing operated.Before using the needle, place the flat side of theneedle on a flat surface and check that the distancebetween the needle and the flat surface is even.

a Flat sideb Needle type marking

a Flat surface

If the distance between the needle and the flatsurface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not usea bent needle.

a Flat surface

Replacing the ne

Replace the needle as desscrewdriver and a correctChecking the needle.

a Press (needle ptwice to raise the n

a Needle position

b Turn off the sewing

c Lower the presser f

ab

a

a

Before replacing the off the sewing machimay occur if the staraccidentally pressed sewing.

CAUTION

GETTING READY


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d Loosen the needle clamp screw and removethe needle.Hold the needle with your left hand, and then

turn the screwdriver counterclockwise withyour right hand.

a Needle clamp screwb Screwdriver Do not apply extreme force when loosening

or tightening the needle clamp screw,otherwise damage to the machine mayresult.

eWith the flat side of the needle toward therear of the machine, insert the needle until ittouches the needle stopper.

a Needle stopper

f While holding the ntighten the needle cTurn the screwdrive

Install the twin needba

a

Be sure to insert the

the needle stopper aneedle clamp screw otherwise the needlemay result.

CAUTION


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Replacing the Presser Foot

Presser foot precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below.

a Press (needle position button) once ortwice to raise the needle.

a Needle position button

b Turn off the sewing machine.

c Raise the presser fo

a Presser foot leve

d

Press the black butt

presser foot holder

a Black buttonb Presser foot hold

Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, othe

the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break. Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any o

result in injuries or damage to the machine.

CAUTION

CAUTION

a

b

GETTING READY


35/106

e Place the presser foot to be installed below theholder so that the presser foot pin is alignedwith the notch in the holder.

Position the presser foot so the letter indicatingthe presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned tobe read.

a Presser foot holderb Notchc Pin

Memo The code for the presser foot to be used

with each stitch appears in the LCD. Fordetails on selecting a stitch, refer toSelecting a stitch (page 42).

f Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that thepresser foot pin snaps into the notch in thepresser foot holder.

g Raise the presser fopresser foot is secu

Removing the prfoot holder

Remove the presser foot hsewing machine or whenwalking foot.

a Remove the presser For details, refer tfoot (page 33).

b Loosen the presser then remove the prTurn the screwdrive

a Screwdriverb Presser foot holdc Screw

cb

a

b

a

a Presser foot leverb Presser foot holderc Notchd Pin

a

c


36/106

Attaching the presser foot holder

a Align the presser foot holder with the presserbar.

a Presser barb Presser foot holder

bHold up the presser foot holder with your

right hand, and tighten the screw.With your left hand, turn the screwdriverclockwise.

Note If the presser foot holder is not correctly

installed, the thread tension will beincorrect.

Using the optionfoot

With the optional walkingare fed evenly by the feedpresser foot. This is usefuare hard to feed such as vsewing fabrics that easily when quilting.Use the screwdriver to att

Attaching the walkin

a

Remove the presser

For details, refer tfoot holder (pag

b Hook the connectinonto the needle cla

a Connecting forkb Needle clamp s

a

b

CAUTION

GETTING READY


37/106

c Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presserfoot holder screw, and then tighten the screwwith the screwdriver.

a Presser foot holder screw

Note When sewing with the walking foot, sew at

a speed between slow and medium.

Removing the walking foot

a Press (needle position button) once ortwice to raise the needle.

a N dl i i b

c Raise the presser fo

a Presser foot leve

The presser foo

dWith a screwdriverholder screw, and tfoot.

a Presser foot hold

e Attach the presser f For details, refer tfoot holder (pag

Memo Only the straight

stitching) and thewith the walkingstitches, refer to

The optional wa

through your Bro

Be sure to securely tighten the screw with thescrewdriver, otherwise the needle may touchthe presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

Before starting to sew, slowly turn thehandwheel toward you (counterclockwise)and check that the needle does not touch thepresser foot. If the needle hits the presserfoot, the needle may bend or break.

a

CAUTION


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Useful Functions

Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency aredescribed below.

Changing the needle stopposition

Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the

needle in the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead,the machine can be set to leave the needle raisedwhen sewing is stopped.

a Turn off the sewing machine.

b While pressing (automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key), turn on the sewing

machine.When machine beeps twice, release the

automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key.

When the needle stoThe needle stops in the raends.

Memo After sewing is fi

pulled out.

When the needle stoposition

The needle stops in the losewing ends.

Memo Use this position

direction (Chan(page 50)) or to s

GETTING READY


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Changing the initial needleposition

Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) isautomatically selected when the sewing machine isturned on. The machine can be set so that thestraight stitch (center needle position) isautomatically selected when it is turned on.

a Turn off the sewing machine.

b While pressing (needle mode selectionkey), turn on the sewing machine.When the machine beeps twice, release theneedle mode selection key.

a Needle mode selection key (single/twin)

The initial needle position is changedto the center needle position.

Memo The specified initial needle position is


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Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces

When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.

Stitching cylindrical pieces

Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier tosew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.

a Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

With the flat bed attachment removed,free-arm sewing is possible.

b Slide the part that you wish to sew onto thearm, and then sew from the top.

c When you are finished with free-arm sewing,install the flat bed attachment back in itsoriginal position.

Sewing large pie

The optional wide table mof fabric easier.

a Open up the legs attable.Pull out the four leg

b Pull the flat bed att

GETTING READY


41/106

c Install the wide table.Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it intoplace. The lower right corner section of thewide table extends over the front section of thesewing machine bed.

a Lower right cornerb Sewing machine bed

Note

The optional wide table is available throughyour Brother dealer.

d Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg toadjust their height so the wide table will belevel with the sewing machine bed.

f Install the flat bed aoriginal position.

Do not move the sewing machine while thewide table is attached, otherwise damage orinjuries may occur.

12

CAUTION


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2 SEWING BASICS

Starting to Sew

Basic sewing operations are described below.Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

Sewing procedure

The basic sewing procedure is shown below.

While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle. In additaway from all moving parts such as the needle, handwheel, and thread take-upmay occur.

Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may obreak.

Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in inj

Use the correct presser foot for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwipresser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.

When sewing, make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwisebend.

Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otheif the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

1Turn on themachine.

Turn on the sewing machine.For details, refer to Turning on the machine (page

2 Select a stitch.Select a stitch appropriate for the application.For details, refer to Selecting a stitch (page 42).

3Attach the presserfoot

Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the typwish to sew.

SEWING BASICS


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Selecting a stitch

Select each stitch by using the pattern selection dial.

a Turn on the sewing machine.

b Turn the pattern selection dial to select thestitch to be sewn. Turn the dial to the right toincrease the number, or turn the dial to theleft to decrease the number.

a Pattern selection dial The stitch appears in the LCD.

c Attach the presser foot indicated in the LCD.

a Presser foot type For details, refer to Replacing the presser

foot (page 33).

Adjusting the st

and width

Example:To select

a Turn the pattern seappears in the LCD

b Press + or sidkey) to adjust the st

a Stitch length keyb Stitch length

c Fined Coarse

a

a


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c Press + or side of (stitch widthkey) to adjust the stitch width.

a Stitch width keyb Stitch widthc Narrowd

Wide

Memo When the stitch length or stitch width is

changed from the default setting, aroundor disappears from the LCD. When

the stitch length or stitch width is reset backto the default setting, reappears aroundor in the LCD.

If the stitch width of the selected stitch

cannot be adjusted, -- appears to the

right of in the LCD.

Positioning the f

Be sure that the fabric pie

order and that the right anare aligned correctly.

a Turn on the sewingThe straight stitch (lautomatically selec

b Press (needle ptwice to raise the n

a Needle position

c Place the fabric und If the seam allowright side, sewingand the extra fabr

After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn

the handwheel toward you and check that theneedle does not touch the presser foot. If theneedle hits the presser foot, the needle maybend or break.

If the stitches become bunched together,increase the stitch length. Continuing to sewwith the stitches bunched together may resultin the needle bending or breaking.

+

CAUTION

SEWING BASICS

f


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d While holding the end of the thread and thefabric with your left hand, turn the handwheeltoward you (counterclockwise) with yourright hand to lower the needle to the startingpoint of the stitching.

eLower the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever The fabric is now positioned to be

sewn.

Starting to sew

Once you are ready to sta

sewing machine. The sewusing either the sewing spcontroller.

NoteImportant: When the foot co

(start/stop buttonsewing.

Using the operationSewing can be started operation button (s

aSlide the sewing spe

right to select the dSlide the sewing spesew at a slower specontroller to the rig

a Sewing speed co

a

b P ( t t/ t b tt ) b I t th f t t


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b Press (start/stop button) once.

a Start/stop buttonThe machine starts sewing.

If you continue pressing the (start/stopbutton) immediately after the sewing starts,the machine will sew at a slow speed.

cWhen the end of the stitching is reached,press (start/stop button) once. The machine stops sewing with the

needle down (in the fabric).

dWhen you are finished sewing, raise theneedle, and then cut the threads.

For details, refer to Cutting the thread(page 48).

Using the foot controllerSewing can be started and stopped using the footcontroller.

b Insert the foot contthe side of the sewi

a Foot controller j

c Turn on the sewing

d Slide the sewing speright to select the dSlide the sewing spesew at a slower spe

controller to the rig

a Sewing speed co The speed set usi

controller will bemaximum sewing

SEWING BASICS

e Once you are ready to start sewing slowly


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e Once you are ready to start sewing, slowlypress down on the foot controller.Pressing down on the foot controller increasesthe sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the

foot controller decreases the sewing speed.

a Slowerb Faster Slowly press down on the foot controller.

Pressing it down hard starts sewing tooquickly. The machine starts sewing.

fWhen the end of the stitching is reached,completely release the foot controller. The machine stops sewing with the

needle lowered (in the fabric).

gWhen you are finished sewing, raise theneedle, and then cut the threads. For details, refer to Cutting the thread

(page 48).

Memo When the foot controller is plugged in,

(start/stop button) cannot be used to startsewing.

When sewing is stopped, the needleremains lowered (in the fabric). Themachine can be set so that the needle willstay up when sewing is stopped. For detailson setting the machine so that the needlestays up when sewing is stopped, refer toChanging the needle stop position(page 37).

Securing the stit

When sewing with the str

the end of an opening or overlap, use reverse stitchstitching to secure the end

a Lower the needle inbeginning of the stipresser foot lever.

b Press (start/stopthe foot controller.At this time, if (

down, the machine

a Start/stop button For details, refer t

(page 44).

The machine st

a

b

c After sewing 3 to 5 stitches press g After 3 to 5 reverse


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c After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press(reverse/reinforcement stitch button).Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)held down until you reach the beginning of thestitching.

a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

While (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.

d After sewing back to the beginning of thestitching, release (reverse/reinforcementstitch button).

The machine stops sewing.

e Press (start/stop button), or press down onthe foot controller. The machine starts sewing in the

normal sewing direction.

f

When the end of the stitching is reached,

press (reverse/reinforcement stitchbutton).

Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches aresewn.

g After 3 to 5 reverserelease (reversebutton).

The machine st

h Press (start/stopthe foot controller.At this time, if (down, the machine

The machine stnormal sewing

i After sewing to thethe sewing machinePress (start/stopcontroller.

a Beginning of stitb End of stitching

Sewing reinforcemeWhen sewing stitches ostitches that are securepressing (reverse/resews reinforcement stitof each other.

4

3

SEWING BASICS


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Cutting the thread

aWhen you wish to finish the stitching and thesewing machine is stopped, press (needleposition button) once to raise the needle.


The needle is raised.

b Raise the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

c Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,and then pass the threads through the threadcutter to cut them.

Automatically sewreinforcement stitc

The sewing machine can reverse or reinforcement sand end of the stitching. Wzigzag stitches, reverse ststitches, are automatically

a Select a stitch. For details, refer to(page 42).

b Press (automatstitch key).

a Automatic rever

appears in

This step is not nethose for sewing bselected where reiautomatically sew

Press (automastitch key) again toreinforcement stitc

c Position the fabric uturn the handwheeneedle into the fabr

a

a

e After reaching the end of the stitching, press Correct thread tensi


50/106

e After reaching the end of the stitching, pressthe reverse/reinforcement stitch button once.

a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button This step is not necessary if a stitch such as

those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks isselected where reinforcement stitches areautomatically sewn.

After reverse/reinforcement stitches aresewn, the sewing machine stops.

Memo Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT

be sewn until (reverse/reinforcementstitch button) is pressed. (start/stopbutton) may be pressed to stop stitchingwhen needed such as for pivoting corners.

Adjusting the thread tension

The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin

thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so thatthey are equal.If the thread and needle combination is correct forthe type of fabric being sewn (according to Needletypes and their uses (page 30)), the thread tensionwill automatically be adjusted to the appropriate

Correct thread tensiThe upper thread and cross near the center othread should be visibfabric, and only the bovisible from the wrong

Upper thread is too If the bobbin thread is of the fabric, the uppe

Turn the thread teloosen the upper t

Upper thread is too If the upper thread is vof the fabric, the uppe

a

b

c

d

a

b

ce

d

a

b

e

SEWING BASICS


51/106

Useful Sewing Tips

Various ways to achieve better sewing results are described below. Refer to these tip

Trial sewing

After a stitch is selected, the machine automaticallysets the stitch width and length for the stitch that wasselected.However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn

since, depending on the type of fabric and stitchingbeing sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and threadthat are the same as those used for your project, andcheck the thread tension and stitch length and width.Since the results differ depending on the type ofstitching and the number of fabric layers sewn,perform the trial sewing under the same conditions

that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewingdirection

a When stitching reaches a corner, stop thesewing machine.Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If theneedle remained up when the machinestopped sewing, press (needle positionbutton).

b Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn thefabric.Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then sligdirection to sew around t

When sewing along a cur

stitch, select a shorter stitca finer stitch.

Sewing thick fab

If the fabric does nofootRaise the presser foot e

presser foot to its highethe presser foot lever is

If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric


52/106

gdoes not feed at the beginning of stitchingZigzag foot J is equipped with a feature thatkeeps the presser foot level.

a Sewing directionb Misalignment

aWhen starting sewing with a seam that is toothick for the fabric to be fed, raise the presserfoot lever.

b

Using the index finger press the black button

(presser foot holding pin) on the left side ofthe zigzag foot J, then use left thumb tolevel the presser foot by gently pushing downon the front of the presser foot. You will heara click; continue pressing the presser footholding pin while lowering the presser foot.

a Black button

c The presser foot remains level, enabling thefabric to be fed.

Sewing thin fabr

When sewing thin fabrics

misaligned or the fabric mIf this occurs, place thin punder the fabric and sew When you have finished paper.

a Stabilizer mater

Sewing stretch f

First, baste the pieces of fsew without stretching thIn addition, a better resultthread for knits or a stretc

a Basting

b

a

a

SEWING BASICS

i i ePull out about 10-1


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Pulling up the bobbin thread

When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,

first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.

a Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case. Refer to stepsathroughdof Installing

the bobbin (page 18).

b Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.Do not cut the thread with the cutter.

c While lightly holding the upper thread withyour left hand with the needle in the up-position, press (needle position button)twice to lower and raise the needle.


The bobbin thread is looped around theupper thread and can be pulled up.

d Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pullout the end of the bobbin thread.

e bobbin thread undethe rear of the mac

f Reattach the bobbiInsert the tab in the bobbin cover (A), aon the right side (B)

1

A

3 UTILITY STITCHES


54/106

3 UTILITY STITCHES

Overcasting

Sew overcasting along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Six stitchovercasting.Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbersmachine, and select the desired stitch.

The values below Auto are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adj

Stitch Name

Pattern

PresserFoot Pettern No.

Application

Stitch Width[mm (inch)]

Stitch Leng[mm (inch

70stitches

model

60stitches

model

50stitches

model

40stitches

model

Auto Manual Auto Man

Zigzag stitch J 05 05 05 05Overcasting andattaching appliqus

3.5(1/8)

0.07.0(01/4)

1.4(1/16)

0.04(03/

3-pointzigzag stitch J 06 06 06 06

Overcasting onmedium weight orstretch fabrics,attaching elastic,darning, etc.

5.0(3/16)

1.57.0(1/161/4)

1.0(1/16)

0.24(1/64

Overcastingstitch

G 07 07 07 07Overcasting on thinor medium weight

fabrics

3.5(1/8)

2.55.0(3/323/16)

2.0(1/16)

1.04(1/16

G 08 08 08 08Overcasting on thickfabrics

5.0(3/16)

2.55.0(3/323/16)

2.5(3/32)

1.04(1/16

G 09 09 09 09Preventing fraying inthick fabrics and fab-rics that fray easily

5.0(3/16)

3.55.0(1/83/16)

2.5(3/32)

1.04(1/16

J 10 10 10 10 Overcasting onstretch fabrics 5.0(3/16) 0.07.0(01/4) 2.5(3/32) 0.54(1/32

*1Do not use reverse stitching.

UTILITY STITCHES

Se ing o ercasting Se ing o ercast


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Sewing overcastingstitches using zigzag foot

J

a Turn on the machine.

b With the pattern selection dial,

select , or .

c Attach zigzag foot J. For details, refer to Replacing the presserfoot (page 33).

d Sew along the edge of the fabric with theneedle dropping off the edge at the right.

a Needle drop point

Sewing overcaststitches using ov

foot G

a Turn on the machin

b With the pattern se

select , or

c Attach overcasting For details, refer tfoot (page 33).

d Position the fabric against the guide oflower the presser fo

a Presser foot guid

e Slowly turn the hancheck that the needpresser foot.

f S ith th d

After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn thehandwheel toward you and check that theneedle does not touch the presser foot. If theneedle hits the presser foot, the needle maybend or break.

a

a a

CAUTION

Basic Stitching


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Basic Stitching

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basiPattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers machine, and select the desired stitch.

The values below Auto are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adjusted to anindicated below Manual.

a Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

b Turn on the machine.

c With the pattern selection dial,select , or .

d Attach zigzag foot J

hWhen sewing is fini

Changing the needle

The needle position castraight stitch (left needstretch stitch by adjustthe side of the stitcneedle position, or preneedle position

Stitch Name

Pattern


Application


Stitch Lengt[mm (inch)

70stitches

model

60stitches

model

50stitches

model

40stitches

model

Auto Manual Auto Manu

Straightstitch

Left J 01 01 01 01

Basic stitching, sew-

ing gathers or pin-tucks, etc.

0.0(0) 0.07.0(01/4) 2.5(3/32) 0.25(1/643

Cen-ter J 02 02 02 02

Attaching zippers,basic stitching, andsewing gathers orpintucks, etc.

3.5(1/8)

0.07.0(01/4)

2.5(3/32)

0.25(1/643

Triple stretchstitch J 03 03 03 03

Attaching sleeves,sewing inseams, sew-ing stretch fabricsand decorative stitch-ing

0.0(0)

0.07.0(01/4)

2.5(3/32)

1.54(1/163


Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otheif a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

UTILITY STITCHES

Bli d H Stit hi


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Blind Hem Stitching

The bottoms of skirts and pants are hemmed. Two stitches are available for blind hemPattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbersmachine, and select the desired stitch.


Memo

When stitch or is selected

Press the side of the stitch width key so that 0, -1, -2 or -3 appeneedle drop point to the left.Press the + side of the stitch width key so that 0, 1, 2 or 3 appearneedle drop point to the right.

Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.

a Fold the fabric along the desired edge of thehem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16inch) from the edge of the fabric. Afterbasting, fold back the fabric along the basting,and then position the fabric with the wrongid f i

b Turn on the machin

c With the pattern se

l

Stitch Name

Pattern


Application



70stitches

model

60stitches

model

50stitches

model

40stitches

model


Blind hemstitch

R 11 11 11 11 Blind hem stitchingon medium weightfabrics

0(0)

3 3 2.0(1/16)

1.0(1/16

R 12 12 12 12Blind hem stitchingon stretch fabrics

0(0)

3 32.0

(1/16)1.0

(1/16

Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwbutton is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

e Position the fabric with the edge of the foldedhem against the guide of the presser foot, and Memo


58/106

e hem against the guide of the presser foot, andthen lower the presser foot lever.

a Wrong side of fabricb Fold of hemc Presser foot guide

f Press the side of the stitch width key toadjust the stitch width until the needle slightlycatches the fold of the hem, and then sewwith the edge of the fabric against the presserfoot guide.

a Needleb Needle drop pointc Fold of hem

MemoIf the needle is incostitching results wil

Correct each result

If the needle catcfoldThe needle is poPress the + sidadjust the needleslightly catches t

a Wrong side of fab Right side of fab If the needle doe

The needle is poPress the sideadjust the needleslightly catches t

a Wrong side of fa

b Right side of fab For details, refer

length and width

g R th b ti

Slowly turn the handwheel toward you andcheck that the needle does not touch thepresser foot. If the needle hits the presserfoot, the needle may bend or break.

R

cb

a

R b

a

c

CAUTION

a

a

UTILITY STITCHES

Buttonhole Stitching


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Buttonhole Stitching

Buttonholes can be sewn.Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbersmachine, and select the desired stitch.

The values below Auto are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adjusted to an

indicated below Manual.

Stitch Name

Pattern


Application



70stitches

model

60stitches

model

50stitches

model

40stitches

model


Buttonholestitch

A 37 37 33 30Horizontal button-holes on thin andmedium weight fab-rics

5.0(3/16)

3.0-5.0(1/8-3/16)

0.5(1/32)

0.2-1(1/64-1

A 38 38 34 31Secured buttonholesfor fabrics that havebackings

5.0(3/16)

3.05.0(1/8-3/16)

0.5(1/32)

0.2(1/64-1

A 39 39 35 32Buttonholes forstretch or knit fabrics

6.0

(15/64)

3.06.0(1/8-15/64)

1.0(1/16)

0.5(1/32-1

A 40 40 36 33Buttonholes forstretch fabrics

6.0

(15/64)

3.06.0(1/8-15/64)

1.5(1/16)

1.0(1/16-

A 41 41 37 34Keyhole buttonholesfor thick or furry fab-rics

7.0(1/4)

3.07.0(1/8-1/4)

0.5(1/32)

0.3(1/64-1

A 42 42 - -Keyhole buttonholesfor medium weightand thick fabrics

7.0(1/4)

3.07.0(1/8-1/4)

0.5(1/32)

0.3(1/64-1

A 43 43 - -Horizontal button-holes for thick orfurry fabrics

7.0(1/4)

3.07.0(1/8-1/4)

0.5(1/32)

0.3(1/64-1

Buttonholes with a maximum length of 30 mm (1-3/16 inches) (diameter + thickness Buttonholes are sewn as shown below.


60/106

a Reinforcement stitching

The names of parts of buttonhole foot A, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are


a

CAUTION

a

b

c

e

d

a Button guideb Presser foot sc Pind Marks on bue 5 mm (3/16

UTILITY STITCHES

a Use chalk to mark on the fabric the positionand length of the buttonhole. cTurn on the machin


61/106

a Marks on fabricb Finished stitching

b Pull out the button guide plate of buttonholefoot A, and then insert the button that willbe put through the buttonhole.

If the button does not fit in the button guideplateAdd together the diameter and thickness ofthe button, and then set the button guideplate to the calculated length. (The distancebetween the markings on the presser footscale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

a Presser foot scale

d With the pattern se

e Attach buttonhole fo For details, refer tfoot (page 33).

f Pass the upper threin the presser foot, presser foot, as sho

g Position the fabric buttonhole mark alon the sides of the lower the presser fo

a Mark on fabric (b Red marks on b

Note When lowering t

push in the frontotherwise the buwith the correct

a

b

a

b

c

b

h Pull down the buttonhole lever as far aspossible. mUse the enclosed sethe pin and open th


62/106

a Buttonhole leverThe buttonhole lever should be positionedbehind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole leverb Bracket

i Gently hold the end of the upper thread inyour left hand, and then start sewing.

Once sewing is completed, themachine automatically sewsreinforcement stitches, then stops.

j Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,and then remove the fabric.

k Raise the buttonhole lever to its originali i

a Seam ripper

For keyhole buttonh

enclosed eyelet punrounded end of the the seam ripper to c

a Eyelet punch When using the e

paper or some otthe fabric before fabric.

Changing the stitch Press the + or sidadjust the stitch length

a

a

b

When opening the buripper, do not place ypath, otherwise injurripper slips. Do not uother way than how i

a

CAUTION

UTILITY STITCHES

Changing the stitch widthPress the + or side of the stitch width key to d

Attach buttonhole f

F d il f


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adjust the stitch width.

Pattern numbers vary depending on themachine model. Refer to Stitch Settings

(page 89) for pattern numbers.a Stitch width keyb Stitch widthc Narrowd Wide

Memo Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch

length and width by sewing a trialbuttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabricsWhen sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use agimp thread.

a

Hook the gimp thread onto the part of

buttonhole foot A shown in the illustrationso that it fits into the grooves, and thenloosely tie it.

For details, refer tfoot (page 33).

e Adjust the stitch wigimp thread.

f Lower the presser fbuttonhole lever, a

g

When sewing is fin

thread to remove a

h Use a handsewing nthread to the wrongthen tie it.

iWith a seam rippergimp thread remainbuttonhole.Trim off any excess

+

Button sewing gPlace the button in


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Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.

Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

a Measure the distance between the holes in thebutton to be attached.

b Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide thedrop feed lever, located at the rear of themachine on the base, to (to the left asseen from the rear of the machine).

a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear ofthe machine)

The feed dogs are lowered.

c Turn on the sewing machine.

d Select stitch .

e Attach button fitting foot M.

a Button The button is h When attaching f

the two holes clobutton so that theholes toward the and then sew the

h Turn the handwhee(counterclockwise)correctly goes into button.If it seems as if the nremeasure the distathe button. Adjust tdistance between th

a

a

UTILITY STITCHES

i Start sewing.Set the sewing speed controller to the left (sothat the speed will be slow)

Attaching a shank toTo sew the button withwith space between it


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that the speed will be slow).

The sewing machine automatically

stops after sewing reinforcementstitches.

If additional strength is needed to secure thebutton, perform the button-sewing operationtwice.

j Use scissors to cut the upper thread and thebobbin thread at the beginning of thestitching.Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitchingto the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie itwith the bobbin thread.

k When you are finished attaching the button,slide the drop feed lever to (to the rightas seen from the rear of the machine) to raisethe feed dogs.

with space between it wind the thread by han

securely.

a Place the button intand then pull the sh

a Shank lever

bAfter sewing is finis

with plenty of excethread between thethen tie it to the uppof the stitching.Tie together the endthe end and at the bthe wrong side of th

c Cut off any excess t

a

Zipper Insertion


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A zipper can be sewn in place.Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbersmachine, and select the desired stitch.


There are many methods for attaching zippers. Therefore, only the procedures for inand a side zipper are described below.

Inserting a centered zipper

Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric buttedagainst each other.

a Right side of fabric

cBaste the two piece

fabric.

a Basting stitchingb Reverse stitchinc Wrong side of fa

Stitch Name

Pattern


Application



70stitches

model

60stitches

model

50stitches

model

40stitches

model


Straightstitch

Cen-ter J 02 02 02 02

Attaching zippers,basic stitching, andsewing gathers orpintucks, etc.

3.5(1/8)

0.07.0(01/4)

2.5(3/32)

0.2(1/64



CAUTION

a

b

c

a

b

UTILITY STITCHES

e Align the seam with the center of the zipper,and then baste the zipper in place. hTopstitch around th


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a Wrong side of fabricb Basting stitchingc Zipper

f With the pattern selection dial,

select stitch .

g Attach the presser foot holder to the right sideof the pin of zipper foot I.

a Right side of the pinb Needle drop point For details, refer to Replacing the presser

foot (page 33).

a Stitchingb Right side of fab

c Basting stitchingd End of zipper op

i Remove the basting

Inserting a side

Stitching is sewn on only this type of zipper for side

openings.

When using zipper foot I, be sure to use acenter needle position, and slowly turn the

a

b

c

I

b

a

CAUTION

When sewing, be surnot touch the zippermay bend or break.

a

b

CAUTION


b Attach zigzag foot J and sew straightf Align the zipper teethe fabric having th

and then baste or p


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b g g J gstitches up to the zipper opening. With the right sides of the fabric facing each

other, sew reverse stitches after reaching thezipper opening.

For details on basic stitching, refer to BasicStitching (page 55).

c Baste the two pieces up to the edge of thefabric.

a Basting stitchingb Reverse stitchingc Wrong side of fabricd End of zipper opening

d Press open the seam allowance from the wrongside of the fabric.

a Wrong side of fabric

e Press the seam allowance so that the right side(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra3 mm (1/8 inch).

p

a Zipper teethb Basting stitching

gWith the pattern seselect stitch .

h Attach the presser fof the pin of zipper If the stitching will

(opposite side of thpresser foot holder tfoot pin.

a Right side of theb Needle drop po For details, refer t

foot (page 33).

a

b c

d

a

When using zipper focenter needle positiohandwheel toward yo

a

I

a

CAUTION

UTILITY STITCHES

i Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with theextra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the baseof the zipper.

l Attach the presser fof the pin of zipper f h f h


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jWhen you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from theend of the zipper, stop the sewing machinewith the needle down (in the fabric), raise thepresser foot lever, and then open the zipperand continue sewing.

k Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and thenbaste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.

If the presser foot ho

right side of the pinleft side of the pin.

a Left side of the pb Needle drop po For details, refer t

foot (page 33).

m

Topstitch along the

Sew reverse stitchesopening and align tside of the presser f

a Right side of fabb End of zipper opc Reverse stitchin

d Beginning of stite Basting stitching

nWhen you are abouend of the zipper, s

When sewing, be sure that the needle doesnot touch the zipper, otherwise the needlemay bend or break.

CAUTION

b

b

a

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape


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Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbersmachine, and select the desired stitch.


Observe the following precautions while stitching.

Stretch stitching


b With the pattern selection dial,select stitch .

c Attach zigzag foot J. For details, refer to Replacing the presserfoot (page 33).

Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attachpiece of clothing, the finisof the stretched elastic tapthat a suitable length of th

aPin the elastic tape

fabric.Pin the elastic tape to make sure that thpositioned on the fa

Stitch Name

Pattern


Application



70stitches

model

60stitches

model

50stitches

model

40stitches

model


Stretch stitch J 04 04 04 04 Sewing stretch fabricsand decorative stitch-ing

1.0(1/16)

1.03.0(1/161/8)

2.5(3/32)

1.04(1/16

3-pointzigzag stitch J 06 06 06 06

Overcasting onmedium weight orstretch fabrics,attaching elastic,darning, etc.

5.0(3/16)

1.57.0(1/161/4)

1.0(1/16)

0.24(1/64


CAUTION

UTILITY STITCHES

c With the pattern selection dial,select stitch .


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d Attach zigzag foot J. For details, refer to Replacing the presserfoot (page 33).

e Sew the elastic tape to the fabric whilestretching the tape so that it is the same lengthas the fabric.While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot

with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pinnearest the front of the presser foot with yourright hand.

When sewing, make sure that the needle doesnot touch any pins, otherwise the needle may

CAUTION

Appliqu, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching


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The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqus, patchwork and quilts are describPattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbersmachine, and select the desired stitch.

Stitch Name

Pattern


Application



70stitches

model

60stitches

model

50stitches

model

40stitches

model


Zigzag stitch

J 05 05 05 05 Overcasting andattaching appliqus

3.5(1/8)

0.07.0(01/4)

1.4(1/16)

0.04(03/

J 18 18 - -Appliqu quilting,free-motion quilting,satin stitching

3.5(1/8)

0.07.0(01/4)

1.4(1/16)

0.04(03/

Appliqustitch

J 13 13 13 13 Appliqu stitching3.5(1/8)

2.57.0(3/321/4)

2.5(3/32)

1.64(1/16

J 19 19 - -Attaching appliqusand binding

1.5(1/16)

0.53.5(1/321/8)

1.8(1/16)

1.04(1/16

J 20 20 - -Attaching appliqusand binding

1.5(1/16)

0.53.5(1/321/8)

1.8(1/16)

1.04(1/16

Piecingstraight stitch

J 15 15 15 15

Piecing straight

stitching (with a seamallowance of 6.5mm(1/4 inch) fromthe right edge of thepresser foot)

5.5(7/32)

0.07.0(01/4)

2.0(1/16)

0.2(1/64

J 16 16 - -

Piecing straightstitching (with a seamallowance of 6.5

mm(1/4 inch) fromthe left edge of thepresser foot)

1.5

(1/16)

0.07.0

(01/4)

2.0

(1/16)

0.2

(1/64

J 23 23 19 19Patchwork stitchingand decorative stitch

4.0 0.07.0 1.2 0.24

UTILITY STITCHES

Stitch Name

Pattern

sserFoot Pettern No.

Application



tches

del

tches

del

tches

del

tches

del



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Appliqu stitching

a Cut out the appliqu, leaving a seamallowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/16 inch).

a Seam allowance

b Place a pattern made of thick paper on theback of the appliqu, and then fold over theseam allowance using an iron.

c Turn the fabric ovepin it onto the fabrto.

a Basting stitching

d Turn on the machin

e With the pattern seselect stitch or

f Att h i f t

Hand-lookquilting J 17 17 16 16

Straight stitch quiltingthat looks hand-sewn

0.0(0)

0.07.0(01/4)

2.5(3/32)

1.04(1/16

Quiltingstitch

(for stippling)J 21 21 17 17

Quilting backgroundstitching (stippling)

7.0(1/4)

1.0-7.0(1/161/4)

1.6(1/16)

1.04(1/16


PPres

7

0stit

mod

6

0stit

mod

5

0stit

mod

4

0stit

mod Auto Manual Auto Man

*1

Do not use reverse stitching.

CAUTION

a

a

g Turn the handwheel toward you, and thenbegin sewing around the edge of the appliqu,making sure that the needle drops just outsideof the appliqu

Piecing

Sewing together two piec


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of the appliqu.

When sewing around corners, stop themachine with the needle in the fabric justoutside of the appliqu, raise the presser footlever, and then turn the fabric as needed tochange the sewing direction.

Patchwork (crazy quilt)stitching

a Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric andplace it over the lower piece.

b Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the

g g ppiecing. The fabric piecmm (1/4 inch) seam allowSew a piecing straight stitthe right side of the presse

a Baste or pin along tfabric that you wish

bTurn on the machin

c Select stitch or

is available on

stitches. For details, refer t

(page 42).

d Attach zigzag foot

For details, refer tfoot (page 33).

e Sew with the side owith the edge of the For a seam allowa

Align the right sidthe edge of the fab

.

UTILITY STITCHES

For a seam allowance on the left side(available only on models with 60 or 70stitches)Align the left side of the presser foot with the

Using the optional qUse the quilting guide are equally spaced.


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Align the left side of the presser foot with the

edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

Memo To change the width of the seam allowance

(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.

Quilt

masina de cusut brother innovis 20 manual

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