materials:selfridges

Cassandra Stephens/ Gerda Ivanauskaite/ Natalya Courtney Johnson/ Nelson Tseng/ Zach Hopkins

M A T E R I A L SV I S U A L M E R C H A N D I S I N G

S U P R I S E D / A M A Z E D / A M U S E D

“Excite the mind, and the hand will reach for the pocket.”

“Selfridges are pioneers in the fast-changing retail landscape, using technology to enhance shopping experiences and engage our customers in new and exciting ways.”

“Selfridges aims to respect the environment, drive positive change, sell products responsibly and also to inspire people.”

“We are inspired by our customers and the world around us, which is why we are constantly evolving, innovating and refining what we do.”

C O N T E N T :

TREND SYNOPSIS

KEY DRIVERS01 / PRODUCT WASTE

KEY DRIVERS02 / EDUCATION

KEY DRIVERS03 / INTERACTIVE TECH

CROSS SECTOR ANALYSIS

CONSUMER TRIBES

RETAIL STRATEGIES

ART DIRECTION

MATERIAL DIRECTION

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3

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59

TREND-

SYNOPSIS

The modern day consumer takes pride in knowing that the brands they buy have

a positive impact on todays environment. The main focus on this trend is to

educate people on the drastic changes that our planet is going through, whether it

be through word of mouth, technology or print. Global warming is upon us and more

brands & companies need to take part in the betterment of our environment in order

to make a difference. Consumers need to be educated on the changes in our climate

and educated on brands that either have a negative or positive impact on the world

1

1.Consumers are now looking for purpose, and assessing your brand’s

long-term contribution to society and the planet.

2. Waste is now a resource and opportunity. Find ways to convert cast-off

materials intoenergy, materials for high-end garments, or materials to be used

in building spaces.

3. Synthetic tweaking is the future. Sell products and promote campaigns that

shift the GM debate away from benefits to business, and toward benefits to

consumers.

4.Leave a lasting legacy. Make education the focus of your corporate social

responsibility and help address matters to society and the environment.

5.Be an educator. Knowledge-hungry consumers are increasingly searching for

experiences that educate as well as entertain them.

“G-Star RAW has created garments using textiles woven in part from

recovered ocean plastic, which threatens the health of the planet’s oceans.

Demand for the products creates a further incentive to clean up eco-systems”

W H A T T H I S M E A N S F O R O U R B R A N D

:

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KEY DRIVER 01/

PRODUCT WASTE

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INTRODUCTION:

As people are in the world where everything is quick and easy, it is so easy to

discard products that can still be used just to get the next ‘best thing’. The

average person generates 4.3 pounds of waste per day. This is 1.6 pounds more

than most produced back in 1960.Wastage is becoming a constant issue among

the world, landfills are full of waste and rubbish, causing visual and environmental

pollution.Approximately 55% of 220 million tons of waste generated each year in

the United States ends up in one of the over 3,500 landfills. Municipal solid waste

landfills are the second-largest source of human-related methane emissions in the

United States, accounting for approximately 22 percent of these emissions in 2008.

Since the consumers are becoming more environmentally aware. For the

future of retailers, they will have to demonstrate the transparency of the

process, and think of the end use of products. Retails will have to take the

responsibility to inform customers the process of producing from the

start to the end, and further more to ensure the products cause zero waste

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IMPACT / CONSEQUENCE

/ FUTURE:

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I M P A C T

The new ideal of reducing waste influences impact and transform the

thinking of whole system. It changes the process of demand and supply. Before

the zero waste idea was introduced, companies produce products first and sell

it to the customers, then created the demand of the market. But now, the ideal

of reducing waste forced to opposite the demand and supply process. As the

zero waste ideal is rising, the supply are now based on demands, companies

make products based on customers’ wants, and needs. This allows reducing

unnecessary supplies, and to reduce waste.

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C O N S E Q U E N C E

”There is no longer a stigma in buying value for money clothing as seen with the

growth of Primark, this has translated into removing the stigma of buying what

was once known as second hand - now re-branded into the term ‘vintage’”. said

by Maria Malone, the principal lecturer in fashion business at the Manchester

Fashion Institute. This year, the 48th Vintage Kilo events, came out with a new

offer inspired by the trends of re-cycling. The even this year allows customers

from Kilo shop not only to buy vintage and second handed appeals, but also get

to re-model or re-work clothes by adding embroidery, patches and other

additions. According to this situation, the market reduces waste by offer

consumers to purchase second-hand items, and make them into unique

personal products.

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The method of consuming lesser from the nature makes designers started to

develop new method to create their designs. Kristel Peters, a Berlin based

shoe designer, made shoes out of a fungus called Mycelium.The shoes

can be grown in the desire shape and are totally biodegradable. Another

Barcelona based fashion designer, Martin Across, designed his collection

inspired by nature. He uses raw materials like rigid body tissues; felt, wool

and neoprene to create the collections. Harmony Paris, a high-end French

fashion brand produces its ready-to-wear collections using the method

of mono materiality and by only using natural fabrics. More designers are

taking the responsibility to contribute sustainability to the environment

by making the procession of their design more recyclable and eco friendly.

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F U T U R E

“Growth without rapacious consumption of resources. Finding and realising new

value in existing, already used materials. Keeping materials and their molecules in play.”

“It is about fundamental systems change. We are not talking about taking

what we have and making it more efficient, it’s about opportunity!” said Dame

Ellen MacArthur, who launched the circular economy movement. According to this

status, the future of the zero waste idea will transform into a perfect whole circular

economy system, where the cost materials and waste of producing would be zero.

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GROWTH WITHOUT RAPACIOUS

CONSUMPTION OF RESOURCES

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KEY DRIVER 02/

EDUCATION

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INTRODUCTION:

“The run of record-setting months means 15 of the most abnormally warm

months have occurred since March 2015. There has never been a run of hot

months like this in the 1,641 months (136+ years) of data at the NOAA’s

disposal.The global average temperature is the clearest indicator of climate

change and each month on record is a testament to what’s happening to the

planet because of human carbon pollution. With all the record-warm months,

it’s no surprise that NOAA still projects 2016 will be the hottest year in at least

137 years.In NASA’s dataset, August marks the 11th record-setting month in

a row. That streak goes back 15 months through July in data from the NOAA.

Each agency handles the global temperature data slightly differently and uses

a different period of comparison, leading to slight differences in the month-

ly and yearly temperature numbers. Overall, though, both datasets show clear

agreement in the overall warming trend.That trend is what Gavin Schmidt,

director of NASA’s Goddard Institute for Space Studies, and other climate

scientists emphasise. It is that excess heat that has accumulated over dec-

ades thanks to rising levels of greenhouse gases that accounts for the bulk of

this year’s record warmth, with El Niño providing only a small boost.“Monthly

rankings, which vary by only a few hundredths of a degree, are inherently

fragile,” Schmidt said in a statement. “We stress that the long-term trends are

the most important for understanding the ongoing changes that are affecting

our planet”

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/ FUTURE:

13

More brands are assigning economic value to aspects of the natural world that

formerly were not quantified. Puma has implemented an environmental profit

and loss system in which the company assigns monetary value to natural

assets such as clean air, fresh water and productive land. This enables the

company to gauge whether its activities ultimately benefit the environment.

The store will no longer be connected to the grid for day-to-day power needs.

Livin Studio’s project Fungi Mutarium imagines technology that enables edible

fungi to be grown on discarded plastic. The project imagines a future in which

plastic waste could be converted back into organic matter, blurring the lines

between the natural and the synthetic.

I M P A C T

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Brands and designers are looking at waste as a source of energy and nutrition.

In July 2014, Sainsbury’s worked with waste management firm Biffa to convert

food waste into electricity using anaerobic digestion at its store in Cannock,

near Birmingham.


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LOOKING AT WASTE AS A SOURCE OF ENERGY AND NUTRITION

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The store will no longer be connected to the grid for day-to-day power needs.

Livin Studio’s project Fungi Mutarium imagines technology that enables edible

fungi to be grown on discarded plastic. The project imagines a future in which

plastic waste could be converted back into organic matter, blurring the lines

between the natural and the synthetic.

F U T U R E

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BLURRING THE LINES BETWEEN THE NATURAL AND THE

SYNTHETIC

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KEY DRIVER 03/

INTERACTIVE TECH

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INTRODUCTION:

The relationship between humans and technology is highly related. The use of

technology has become so vital in our lives. Consumers expect to be able to use

technology in alomst every perspective. This situation has transform the retailers

to ensure they are using technology to create convinence and omni experience.

A statistic from Forrester Research, predicts that in 2017, 3.5 billion people half

of the globe’s population are going to adapt the usage of internet regularly. This

means that brands need to adopt ways within the store where consumers can

use their devices and interact with the store. This may be through social media

that they can access through the store or interactive screens where they can

watch videos. Furthermore, the usage of virtual reality is also becoming more

apparent has been used in runways and museums. An example of this that

Dior has adapted this technology and use it to provide experience for people

who want to enter the backstage of its fashion show through Dior VR headset.

British Museum has also applied the usage of VR in some of its exhibitions. Through

its cooperation with Samsung, the Birth Museum operate a Digital Discover Centre,

which allows people to see its 3D scanned collections through Samsung VR headsets.

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/ FUTURE:

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I M P A C T

Consumers will become more active on social platforms that enable them

to share visuals such as images and videos. Retailers are developing a new

style of consumer experiences by applying smart devices in store. This

is a new way of shopping which allows the consumers to preview products

through technological devices. The “Memory Mirror” is a new in-store smart

mirror, which memorises and provides the consumers with the opportunity of

viewing every product that they have tried on in a video format. Also the new

phone application “Snap. Find. Shop” is a new kind of search engine, which

functions by matching the snap shot in order to find out the product in the image.

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The increase of new forms of technology means that people are more

vulnerable to ‘new forms of crime and manipulation’ stated by LSN on their

hyper-reality (2016) article. This is due to a rising concern of hacking into

individuals personal data such as banking accounts and passwords. Wearable

devices are becoming more personal to consumers and integrating themselves

into their lives. Physical and virtual realities are completely intertwined an

example being the Apple watch.

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NEW FORMS OF CRIME AND MANIPULATION

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F U T U R E

There will be a lack of staff within the store due to technology being able

to do the same job, so staff are needed less. This reflects back to the

impacts of memory mirror and also the app that can be used within store.

Wearable technology will also become a vital part in consumers lives.

They will want to be able to interact with these types of products whilst

doing normal tasks like shopping. This demonstrates a merge

between human biology and technology. Because technology is becoming

personal to the consumer in store, it is becoming a part of who they are.

Today, smart prosthetics have been transformed from health supporting

equipment into fashionable and socially accepted equipment. People have started

to view individuals with prosthetic not as having physical disabilities but relate them

to futuristic, fashion icons. For example, Rebekah Marine a model who has bionic

arm appeared on the New York Fashion Week in 2015. She presented her i-limbs

not as a disadvantage but under the headlights of the fashion runway. ‘In a world

now with mobile VR and AR in which we all can become the creators and content,

the boundaries will become more and more blurred,’ says James Edward Marks.

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A MERGE BETWEEN HUMAN BIOLOGY AND TECHNOLOGY

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CROSS SECTOR ANALYSIS

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CONSUMER TRIBE 01MILLENNIALS

“WE WANT IT

NOW”

Millennials are part of a ‘we want it now’ generation which has lead to a surge

in on demand services including Netflix, Uber and Deliveroo.

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Millennials make up a huge proportion of society. They are born between 1980 and 2000, which

means that they were born in a time where there were significant changes to their lifestyle. For

example new technological innovations and economic turmoil. As a consequence they would expect

different things compared to the previous generations.

Millennials are a social generation who often broadcast their lifestyles on a range of social media

platforms including Facebook and twitter. By doing this, these consumers gain instant gratification

due to likes, shares and comments. This could be due to the fact they grew up in a digital world. In

terms of retail these consumers receive instant gratification by experiencing the product first hand

in store.

52% of these consumers enjoy concepts like e-vouchers, secret sales and click and collect. They

are also less likely to purchase a product on their phones if it is more than $100, meaning bigger

purchases are made in store. This is so they can truly experience the product.

Millennials are three times more likely to buy their products from brands who are concerned with

ethics and sustainability rather than purchasing with luxury brands. This means they are concerned

with their impact in the world and want to make positive changes for the future as they will want to

raise their offspring in a better world. Millennials prefer stores to offer them an experience rather

than it just being a place where they buy their goods.They will use technology to look at price

comparisons and reviews when buying a product.

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CONSUMER TRIBE 02GENERATION D

“OPTIMISTICFUNKYUPBEAT

AND ENERGETIC”

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This tribe is called ‘‘the teenage crowd’’ who are aged 16-26 they love technology and eating healthy

as they are also known for being the ‘‘generation salad’’.

The generation is very digital as they have different types of technologies that they use on a

daily basis. They also use mobiles to stay in touch with their friends by using social media such as

snapchat and WhatsApp according to Sparks& Honey.This generation is very competitive and wants

more in life. They are all about travelling and having an impact on the world (change the world).

They expect stores to be optimistic, funky, upbeat and full of energy. Generation D ‘‘seek

experiential spaces that feel more like homes-from- home, dens or clubs, rather than anonymous

boxes’’ stated by Retail consultancy Fitch.They are all about being unique and independent as they

prefer working on their own rather than collaborating.As mentioned before generation D are also

known as Generation salad because of their love for greens and healthy snacks that are good for you.

According to NPD research they have said that there will be ‘‘an 11% rise in fresh food

consumption over the next five years. The typical target market of Selfridges is consumers aged

18-35, this fits in generation D.

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CONSUMER TRIBE 03GENERATION I

“CLICKPRESS

DELETE”

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Generation i are a tribe of ‘click, press and delete’ They are born after 2002 making them the

youngest tribe yet the most advanced tribe in terms of understanding technology from an early age.

They are digital intuitive and their brains work interactively ,Using their phones, tablets, laptops and

any other type of interactive screen is apart of their life and apart of who they are, Social media is

also a massive part of their lives with Instagram, facebook and twitter being there platforms of self

worth.

They are also known as the ‘influences’ and will influence their parents or the older generation such

as generation X, on what to buy as they are deemed the most knowledgeable on the latest gadget or

luxury such as a car or a phone.

They are ‘cyber space’ shoppers showing 78% of female teenagers shop online and 82% of male

teenagers shop online.

They are used to supply and demand quickly and will become impatient or intolerant to things that

are not done straight away.

They like play as well as purchase and become engaged with a purchase that allows you to play

interactively or physically.

What is unique about this tribe is that they are not gender specific, it is a tribe that combines boys

and girls and any colour or toy is not gender specific.

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RETAIL STRATEGIES

SUMMARY

The in-store space will be in an exhibition format, which will allow consumers not

only to shop but to be educated and to be part of the sustainable journey. The in-store

space will be divided into four parts,which will be the entrance, click and show,

designer collection space, and pay point. By walking from the entrance space to the

pay point, consumers will experience, interact, and be part of the Material World.

The first part will be the entrance space. The space aim to provide a learn,

feel, and scan experience to the consumers. Moving on to second space, there

is going be an interactive technology journey, showing consumers to the

transparency of Selfridges and introduce garments and designers. The third

part of the space would be a selling point, which will be selling sustainable

fashion collections. The last part of this visual journey would be the pay point.

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ENTRANCE SPACE

CLICK and SHOW

DESIGNER COLLECITON

SPACE

PAY POINT

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RETAIL STRATEGIES

SPACE OVERVIEW

A:

WINDOW

B:

ENTRANCE SPACE

C:

CLICK and SHOW

D:

DESIGNER COLLECITON

SPACE

E:

PAY POINT

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A

B

C D E

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RETAIL STRATEGIES

WINDOW

The Window will be holding the theme of up cycling. In the middle of

the window there will be a huge ball shape lighting made by plastic

bottles, and recyclable materials. At the back of the rounded light, there

will be an digital screen showing the videos of the key drivers. At two

sides of the window, will be demonstrating collection of Martin Across.

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RETAIL STRATEGIES

ENTRANCE

Learn, Feel, and scan will be the purposes of the entrance space. There will

be information about materials provided to consumers when they enter the

space. At the back of the window, there is going to be a projected screen with

introducing innovative eco- materials. Through the screen consumers will

learn about new sustainable materials and feel the atmosphere of the trend. By

walking further into the space, there will be six open fixtures demonstrating

sustainable materials, which allow consumers to touch and feel the textures.

Surrounded by the six open fixtures there is also going to be a large light box

with QR code in the middle. By scanning the QR code the consumers will

received more information and details about the demonstrated materials.

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RETAIL STRATEGIES

The space CLICK and Show will be a rounded interactive digital space. The aim

of this space is to provide an unique futuristic shopping experience and show

the transparency of the designers.

There will be screens demonstrating different materials in the space. Once the

consumer clicks the material, the screen will show the consumer the garments

and designers that uses the material. This strategy allows the consumer to see

the transparency of Selfridges, and further more to introduce collections in the

next space, the Designer Collection Space.

CLICK and SHOW

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RETAIL STRATEGIES

DESIGNERSCOLLECTION

The designer collection space will be mainly a selling point. It is aim to

continue the experience journey by introducing and selling sustainable

fashion designs. It will be a space that continues the sustainable experience from

previous spaces and will be selling limited edition and collections of those

innovative and sustainable designers, such as Christian Raeburn,

Harmony Paris. There are also going to have glass boxes demonstrating innovative

designs such as the fungus shoe by Krystal Peters, and magnate cloud.

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RETAIL STRATEGIES

PAY POINT

The pay point will be the end of this visual journey. This point’s aim is to

inform the customer what this shopping experience mean to the environment.

At the back of the pay desk, there will be a digital screen playing Paris ice

melting video. The purpose is to educate and to inform the customers the

contribution they made by purchasing sustainable fashion.

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RETAIL STRATEGIES

PERFECT IMPERFECTION is a concept of using different parts of different

mannequins to recreate unique perfect personalise mannequins. This concept is

inspired by the ideal of rebirth, all the mannequins will be a remix of diffrent old

matters to create new stuffs.

MANNEQUINS: PERFECT

IMPERFECTION

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ARTDIRECTIONS

“The artist Vilde J. Rolfsen, produced landscapes in the colours of dawn

represented using plastic bags. The series “Plastic bag landscapes” seems

to represent real landscapes. The artist plays with the form of plastic bags,

wrinkles, and lights for a lifelike effect.”

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Moira Bateman is a contemporary visual artist living in Minneapolis. Her work

draws on an interest in a wildness present in both nature and ourselves.

River water and prairie burn ash stained silk, pigment, beeswax and stitching.

The Momenta Animale dresses are made with linen, steam dyed with onion skin,

nuno-felted with raw Navajo Churro wool, and hung on weathered wood and

metal yokes.52

DESIGNDIRECTIONS

:NATURAL MATERIALS

Martin Across, a Barcelona based fashion designer. He designs his collections

inspired by nature, and uses raw materials like rigid body tissues, felts wool and

neoprene.

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Dana Cohen a designer had this idea of ‘Worn again’.The worn again collection

made from up-cycled textiles, Shows us a new way of inventing garments with

out anymore waste, time or money and showing that something of beauty can

be created from something discarded.Her collection features brightly coloured

knitted garments inspired by a Jackson Pollock painting, she decided that each

colour combination would reference one of his paintings.

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DESIGNERDIRECTIONS

:NATURAL MATERIALS

Harmony Pairs, a French fashion house that focuses on slow and eco fashion.

It only uses nodal and natural fabrics to create its ready-to-wear collections.

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Christopher Raeburn, designs his collector by using natural fabrics.

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INNOVATIVEDIRECTIONS

:BIO MATERIALS

Wiktoria Szawiel, an interior designer, who designs interiors and furnitures

using natural and recyclable materials and methods. She investigated new and

eco ways to produce her works, by using fuses wood and rattan within milky

clear resin, freezing the items into solid shapes of her interiors.

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Kristel Peters, who made shoes out of a fungus called Mycelium. The shoes can

be grown in the desire shape and are totally biodegradable.

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MATERIALSDIRECTIONS

C O F F E E G R O U N D

M Y C E L I U M

B I O D E G R A D A B L E P L A S T I C

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Coffee ground, the residual product that remains

from every cup of coffee, which is a new most

popular sustainable material that has been used in

these years.

Mycelium Mycelium,is a natural, self-assembling

glue, digesting crop waste to produce

cost-competitive and environmentally

responsible materials that perform.

Bioplastics are made from natural materials such

as corn starch. It has been made from traditional

petrochemicals, which are designed to break down

more quickly. Eco/recycled plastics, which are

simply plastics made from recycled plastic

materials rather than raw petrochemicals.60

MATERIALSDIRECTIONS

C O C O N U T F I B E R S

B I O - L U M I N U M

E C O X

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Coconut fibres are extracted from the shell of the

coconut and are highly resistant to tearing and

scrubbing. Particularly notable are the very good

heat-insulating properties, given the many air

pockets they contain. Coconut fibre panels can also

be used for noise insulation and for protection from

microwaves.

Bio-Luminum tiles are made of 100% recycled air-

craft aluminium and are thus a sustainable design

solution which closes yet another loop.

EcoX,is concrete material comes from the USA

and consists of 75% recycled glass. It creates an

extraordinary appearance of the material, which is

available in sheets, lends itself particularly to use

in furniture, dividing walls, shop fittings, and even

sculptural objects.62

materials:selfridges

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