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Page 1: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

1/22#Maya

Maya by

Page 2: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

2/22#Maya

Maya is a super feminine A-line dress with a round neckline that hugs your body. The short sleeves and their pleat

design creates volume and interest. But there are so many possibil ities with these sleeves - really! For instance, you

could leave the pleat allowance on the inside (= subtle volume), feature the pleat allowance on the outside

(= genuine statement sleeves), or go for a combination of the two (= a playful effect). Maya has an invisible zip at the

back. Lengthening and shortening this dress is a breeze.

0 - 26

Maya by

Page 3: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

3/22#Maya

pattern measurements (in inches)

size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

length 46.3 46.5 46.7 46.9 47.1 47.4 47.6 48 48.5 49 49.2 49.5 50 50.1

sleeve length* 16 16.6 16.8 16.9 17.1 17.3 17.5 17.7 18.3 18.5 18.7 18.9 19.1 19

bust 30.8 32.3 33.9 35.5 37.1 38.6 40.2 41.8 44 46.5 48.8 51.2 53.6 55.9

waistline measurement

26.8 27.5 28.3 29.9 31.4 33 33.8 35.4 37.8 40.3 42.9 45.5 48 50.6

hips 42.6 43.3 44 45.5 47 48.6 49.3 50.8 53.2 55.6 58 60.4 62.7 65.1

* Including shoulder length.

IMPORTANT Adjust the amount of fabric to be used based on these alterations.

Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double lines. Then either increase the distance between the cut pieces by the desired amount (to lengthen), or overlap the pieces (to shorten). Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams are always straight.

size chart (in inches)

shorten or lengthen the pattern here

This chart’s measurements are the pattern measurements based on the fabric type and serve as a reference. Ease has been added to the width measurements (in addition to the exact body measurements) for a more comfortable fit. Maya is designed to have a fitted bust and be looser around the hips.

Choose your size based on your bust measurement. If your hip measurements are wider than those in the size chart, check the hip measurements in the chart below to see if there’s enough room or whether the pattern needs to be altered. It’s easy to do. Simply trace the line of the one size instead of the other. You can alter the waist by reducing or increasing the size of the darts.

Important! Each dart should not be larger than 1 3/8" - 1 3/5".

size EUR 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58

US 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

H (height) 5’24" 5’38" 5’45" 5’48" 5’51" 5’54" 5’58" 5’61" 5’64" 5’64" 5’64" 5’64" 5’64" 5'64"

B (bust) 29.9 31.5 33.1 34.6 36.2 37.8 39.4 40.9 43.3 45.7 16 50.4 52.8 55.1

W (waist) 26 26.8 27.6 29.1 30.7 32.3 33.1 34.6 37.2 39.8 42.3 44.9 47.4 50

H (hips) 33.9 35.4 37 38.2 39.4 40.6 41.7 42.9 45.3 47.2 49.2 51.2 53.1 55.1H

W

B

Page 4: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

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notions

• Thread

• Iron-on interfacing: 0.1 yd

• Hook-and-eye closure: 1

• Invisible zip: 24"

• Fabric: see table

fabric advice The sturdy texture of cotton twill or denim will add structure to this clean, minimalist look. Prefer poplin, linen, or Tencel? Go for it! We do not recommend very thin or fluid fabrics as the effect of the pleats will be lost.

fabric 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

fabric width 43”* yd 3 1/2 3 3/4 3 3/4 3 3/4 - - - - - - - - - -

fabric width 55” yd 2 3/4 3 3 3 3 3 1/4 3 1/4 3 1/4 3 1/4 3 1/2 3 1/2 3 1/2 3 3/4 3 3/4

* Maya should be made in a fabric of 55" wide for size 8 - 26 because pattern piece 1 does not fit on a fabric that is 43" wide.

The corresponding fabric layout can be found on page 6 of these sewing instructions.

Page 5: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

5/22#Maya

pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches)

To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances around the paper pattern pieces before cutting them out. If you are using a PDF pattern, the pattern can be printed with or without seam allowance. To find out more, watch the video.

1. front: 1x on fabric fold

2. back: 2x

3. sleeve: 2x

4. bias tape: 1x

5. pocket: 4x

6. sleeve hem facing: 2x

material type

fabric

iron-on interfacing

21

543

⅜"

⅜" ⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

6

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

⅜"⅜" ⅜" ⅜" ⅜"

⅜"

⅜"

1¼” 1¼”

1¼”

00

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

00

0 0

0

0

0

0

0

0

IMPORTANT

The pieces highlighted in light yellow have iron-on

interfacing attached to the wrong side.

Page 6: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

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0 - 6

fabric layout – solid fabrics fabric width 43"

3

3

2

1

5

5

4

6

IMPORTANT You only need pattern piece 4 once.

+FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

Page 7: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

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marking pattern pieces

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

IMPORTANT You only need pattern piece 4 once.

Notch the pattern paper and fabric at the following points

single notch

double notch

V notch

Mark the following points using marking thread

centre point

0 - 8

2

1

5

5

3

4

6

10 - 14

2

1

5

5

3

4

6

16 - 26

2

1

5

5

4

6

3

3

+

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGEfabric layout – solid fabrics fabric width 55"

Page 8: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

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sewing instructions

The method used to finish the seams depends on the fabric used. The pieces are always sewn together with the right sides of the

fabric facing, unless stated otherwise.

1Fold over the F (1) with the right side of the fabric facing inwards. Pin the marking threads that denote the centre of the waist darts.

F front

B back

CF centre front

CB centre back

RB right back

LB left back

right side

wrong side

iron-on interfacing

1

Page 9: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

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Sew the dart from the top marking thread off to the marking thread at the waist. Sew from this point off to the bottom marking thread. Sew slightly past the marking thread, so that you’ve sewn past the fabric. Snip the thread and make a knot.

Press the darts towards the CF.

Finish the shoulders and side seams with overlock stitching.

Finish the straight ends of the pocket pieces (5) with overlock stitching.

1

1

1

5

Page 10: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

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Pin the straight end of 2 of the 4 pocket pieces to the side seam of the F, matching the marking threads. Sew into place between the marking threads.

Fold the pocket and seam allowance over and sew the pocket to the seam allowance underneath, right next to the seam.

2Fold over the B (2) with the right side of the fabric facing inwards. Pin the marking threads that denote the centre of the waist darts.

Sew the darts to the marking threads at the waist. Sew from this point off to the bottom marking thread. Sew slightly past the marking thread, so that you’ve sewn past the fabric. Snip the thread and make a knot.

15 5

11

15 5

5 5

2 2

2 2

Page 11: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

11/22#Maya

Press the darts towards the CB.

Finish the shoulder and side seams and the CB seams with overlock stitching.

Pin the straight end of the 2 remaining pocket pieces to the side seam of the B, matching the marking threads. Sew into place between the marking threads.

Fold over the pocket.

2 2

2 2

25 5

25 5

Page 12: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

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Place both B pieces in front of you with the right sides facing up. Place the invisible zip in front of you too with the right side facing up. Open the zip.

Fold the zip tape marked with the green star to the right and pin it to the RB. The long edge of the zip tape should match the overlocked edge of the fabric, and the zip teeth should start 3/8" under the raw edge of the top. Use the invisible zipper foot to sew as far down as possible.

Fold the zip tape marked with the red star to the left and pin it to the LB. The long edge of the zip tape should match the overlocked edge of the fabric, and the zip teeth should start 3/8" under the raw edge of the top. Use the invisible zipper foot to sew as far down as possible.

Close the zip and pin the rest of the CB seam under the zip. Use the narrow presser foot or the zipper foot to sew the seams closed. Start sewing just above and next to your previous row of stitching (to sew the zip tape). Press the seam allowance open.

2 2

55

2

3/8”

2 2

1

12

Page 13: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

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3Pin and stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowances open.

Trim the seam allowance at the tips at an angle to prevent the fabric from bunching.

4Press the bias tape (4) as follows:

• Start by pressing the bias tape in half lengthwise to create a fold line. Open back out.

• Next, press the long edges over to the wrong side so that the raw edges meet the fold line. Open back out again.

Pin the right side of the bias tape to the wrong side of the neckline, leaving 3/8" overhang next to the finished CB seam on the LB. One you have pinned the whole neckline, trim away any excess tape on the RB, leaving a 3/8" over-hang.

Stitch the bias tape into place along the pressed fold line closest to the raw edge.

3

2 21

2 21

4

4

4

4

22

1

22

1

Page 14: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

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Fold the bias tape towards the top.

Lay the garment with the right side facing up. Fold the bias tape over along the top fold line.

Then fold the short side (= seam allowance) inwards.

Fold the long curved edge of the tape over at the pressed centre line and lay the pressed edge right on top of the previous stitching.

Edgestitch into place.

22

1

22

1

22

1

22

1

22

1

22

1

Page 15: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

15/22#Maya

5Depending on whether you like to have more or less volume in the sleeves, you can fold the pleat allowance of the middle pleat towards the inside or the outside or create a combination of the two.

Option 1: pleat allowance on the inside (= little volume)

Match the V notches at the top and bottom of the sleeve (3) together with the right side of the fabric facing inwards.

Sew the pleat allowances into place (i.e. stitch about 1 1/4" vertically from the top).

Press the pleat allowance flat along the wrong side so that the notches are aligned with the V notch.

Option 2: pleat allowance on the outside (= more volume)

Match the V notches at the top and bottom of the sleeve (3) together with the right side of the fabric facing outwards.

Sew the pleat allowance into place (i.e. stitch about 1 1/4" vertically from the top and bottom).

OPTIE 1

3

OPTIE 2

3

3

3

3

Page 16: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

16/22#Maya

Press the pleat allowance flat along the right side so that the notch aligns with the V notches.

Option 3: combination

Match the V notches at the top of the sleeve (3) together with the right side of the fabric facing outwards.

Sew the pleat allowance into place (i.e. stitch about 1 1/4" vertically from the top).

Match the V notches at the bottom of the sleeve (3) together with the right side of the fabric facing inwards.

Sew the pleat allowance into place (i.e. stitch about 1 1/4" vertically from the bottom).

3

OPTIE 3

3

3

3

3

Page 17: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

17/22#Maya

Press the pleat allowance at the top of the sleeve flat so that the notch aligns with the V notches.

Press the pleat allowance at the bottom of the sleeve flat along the wrong side so that the notch is even with the V notches.

Match the 2 notches on the front of the sleeve together in the direction indicated, right sides together.

Sew the pleat temporarily into place.

3

3

3

3

Page 18: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

18/22#Maya

Match the 2 notches on the back of the sleeve together in the direction indicated, right sides together.

Sew the pleat temporarily into place.

Match each of the single notches on the front of the sleeve together in the direction indicated.

Sew the pleat allowances into place (i.e. stitch about 1 1/4" vertically from the bottom).

3

3

3

3

Page 19: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

19/22#Maya

Match each of the single notches on the back of the sleeve together in the direction indicated.

Sew the pleat allowances into place (i.e. stitch about 1 1/4" vertically from the bottom).

Pin and sew the notched edge of the sleeve facing (6) to the bottom of the sleeve. The notch in the facing matches the 2 V notches and the single notch in the sleeve.

Fold the facing and the seam allowance towards the bottom. Stitch the facing to the seam allowance underneath right next to the seam.

3

3

3

6

3

6

3

6

Page 20: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

20/22#Maya

Finish the sides of the sleeve and the side of the facing with overlock stitching.

6Pin and sew the top of the sleeve (= sleeve cap) to the armhole with the notches matching. The single notch marks the front, while the double notch marks the back. The single notch at the top aligns with the shoulder seam. Distribute the ‘excess’ fabric evenly between the other single notches.

Finish the raw edges with overlock stitching.

7Pin and sew the side and underarm seams (with the facing folded open). Sew into place right up to the marking thread indicating the top of the pocket opening. Now, stitch from the next marking thread down to the hem. Press the seam allowance open.

3

6

21

3

7

2

Page 21: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

21/22#Maya

Pin and sew the edges of the pocket pieces together.

Finish the raw edges with overlock stitching.

8Fold the facing towards the wrong side of the sleeve.

Sew the facing in place by hand.

Fold the hem allowance of the dress up over the wrong side, press, and open back out.

1

2 2

1

2 2

Page 22: Maya by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 4. 15. · Maya 5/22 pattern pieces & seam allowances (in inches) To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances

22/22#Maya

Fold the raw edge up to the pressed fold line and fold up again.

Sew the hem allowance into place.

9If you are using a hook-and-eye closure, sew this on now.

1

2 2

1

2 2 9

1

2 2

9