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melbourne

Melbourne is a city of laneways and alleys, and of passionate people starting businesses in unlikely places – from quirky coffee spots and bars to unique dining

experiences. But if you aren’t a local, how do you know which lane to turn down? We asked six industry insiders to name their city’s best-kept secrets.

the guide.

NIHoNSHUThis sake bar has its own line of Tanuki beer, named after the Japanese racoon dog. Shochu, Japan’s vodka-like spirit, is also served in many variations. When you order sake, you’re offered your choice of many different vessels – it’s a small thing, but it makes me feel very welcome. Nihonshu is next door to Melbourne’s oldest izakaya, Chuji, so the bar food comes courtesy of the neighbouring kitchen. 163 Lonsdale St, Melbourne, (03) 9663 8118.

HARDWARE SoCIETE This sexed-up breakfast-through-lunch kitchen makes everything look and taste amazing. The menu is French- and Spanish-inspired and the presentation is artful. My favourite? Their iced coffee served in an almost spherical Riedel glass – it’s a thing of beauty. They make pretty macaroons and cakes, too. 120 Hardware St, Melbourne, (03) 9078 5992.

MAMASITA Melbourne has embraced the bar/dining concept, but there’s still room for more late-night eats and this Mexican diner fits the bill. Try esquites de maiz – sauteed corn, chilli, lime and epazote (Mexican tea). Mamasita also has a DJ on Fridays and Saturdays, a great tequila-fuelled buzz, and a “no nachos, hard-shell tacos or cheesy burritos, this is real Mexican” policy. Lvl 1, 11 Collins St, Melbourne, (03) 9650 3821.

DANSK RESTAURANT Other than those guerilla-dining gatherings of often questionable legal status, members-only clubs are the next closest thing to a secret restaurant. Few things stay quiet for long in this city, but Dansk is still flying under the radar. For repeat visits, you’ll need to become a member, but first-timers can drop in for a one-off Nordic dining experience. The menu has such offerings as the delightfully named Smushi – a cross between sushi and smorrebrod, an open Danish sandwich. Denmark House, Lvl 3, 428 Little Bourke St, (03) 9600 4477.

BRoTHER BABA BUDAN I impatiently stalked this cafe for weeks before it opened, then begged the owners to start serving yo-yo biscuits, so now my local cafe is just perfect. Mark Dundon and Bridget Amor are also the city’s big names in coffee as the creators of Seven Seeds, so as you’d expect, Brother Baba Budan (aka the place with the chairs hanging from the ceiling) does exceptional coffee that made it well worth the wait. 359 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9606 0449.

michelle matthews Michelle Matthews has good reason to keep an eye out for Melbourne’s less-obvious attractions – she’s the woman behind Deck of Secrets (deckofsecrets.com), which these days also includes iPhone apps as well as the traditional boxed set of cards. “Melburnians are equal-opportunity admirers,” she says. “They’re not impressed by big names and budgets alone, which means an architectural, retail, hospitality or art discovery could be around any corner.”

SoUTHISLAND CAfE You’ll find this gem beneath the pedestrian bridge that runs from Flinders Street Station across to Southgate. I love lying on one of the banana lounges in the middle of the Yarra River sipping coffee in the sun while the workers trek across the footbridge to the city above me. In summertime, they serve the locally made Jock’s Icecream. The rest of the year, it’s a tranquil escape from the city centre. Beneath Southgate Bridge, Flinders St, Melbourne.

the guide.

From far left: Michelle at Hardware Societe; Brother Baba Budan; 

Mamasita. Opening page: Siglo.

dan simsSommelier-about-town Dan has shared his wine knowledge at some of Melbourne’s best restaurants. In 2007, he won The Age Good Food Guide Sommelier of the Year award, and now, with fellow wine-lover Ben Edwards, runs consultancy group The Wine Guide (thewineguide.com.au).

HU ToNgI first tried xiao long bao dumplings in Shanghai and have been addicted ever since, so I’m forever thankful that Hu Tong pumps out these soup-filled delights at a rapid pace. Situated opposite Flower Drum, the unobtrusive front door can mislead you into thinking that this is a tiny 10-seater. Fortunately, there are another two floors above with ample room to accommodate all those who worship xiao long bao. But don’t stop there – the other Shanghainese and Szechuan dishes are also brilliant. 14-16 Market Ln, Melbourne, (03) 9650 8128.

THE PARLoUR For those lucky enough to be invited, head to the rear of kitsch bar Madame Brussels and enter The Parlour. Looking a bit like a Bavarian hunting lodge, naughtiness is not just encouraged here, it’s expected. Crystal decanters of top-shelf spirits and

more pitchers of cocktails than you can poke a glass at add another colourful layer to this Melbourne classic. Lvl 3, 59-63 Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9662 2775.

LADRoFound at what I affectionately call the ‘Paris End’ of Gertrude Street, Ladro’s been winning fans since it opened in 2004, but visitors could easily miss the laidback exterior. Ladro is one of the reasons I’ve struggled to move out of Collingwood, and who can blame me when the pizzas here are so good! Takeaway is available, but with legendary frontman Sean Kierce leading a crew of friendly staff, eating in is always a good option, too. 224 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, (03) 9415 7575.

SIgLoThe Midas touch of Con Christopoulos has given Melbourne a sackful of fantastic venues. Located above the The European, Siglo is just one of the recent additions to his ever-growing portfolio. The outside bar space gives you a brilliant view of

Parliament House and Spring Street, and is a favourite ‘last stop’ venue when hosting out-of-towners. Lvl 2, 159-161 Spring St, Melbourne, (03) 9654 6631.

YU-UIt took two false starts before I finally sat down at Yu-u. The first was because I couldn’t find it; the next because I was 10 minutes late for a lunch booking. In short, turn up with time to spare, as you’ll need it to find the nondescript, graffiti-covered steel door. The set-course Japanese menu is a cheap lunchtime fix, catering for those in a rush. For those who aren’t, only take your time once you’ve arrived. 137 Flinders La, Melbourne, (03) 9639 7073.

MISS JACKSoNTucked away off St Kilda’s colourful Grey Street, Miss Jackson is a slick cafe serving solid, honest food and brilliant coffee. The service punches above its weight, too. Try to secure an outside table, especially on a sunny day. 2/19 Grey St (enter via Jackson St), St Kilda, (03) 9534 8415.

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From far left: smart tastes at Siglo; Dan at Siglo; The Parlour; fabulous corn fritters at Miss Jackson.

68  delicious.

jackie middletonFood stylist and blogger Jackie Middleton (eatingwithjack.blogspot.com) believes this is a city that rewards extra effort. “In any town, you never know what gem is around the corner; but in Melbourne, it’s around the corner, down the alley and next to the graffitied door.” So it seems fitting that the new eatery Jackie has begun with partner Simon O’Regan, EARL Canteen, has an official address of 500 Bourke Street – but is “at the rear, enter via Little Bourke Street”.

WALL TWo 80This institution has brought hole-in-the-wall spots into the mainstream, thanks to the consistently well made Genovese coffee, friendly staff and, most of all, that wall. It’s the bench or nothing and I’m not too proud to stalk my spot until someone leaves. Rear 280 Carlisle St, Balaclava, (03) 9593 8280.

LA LATTERIA Nearby Lygon and Brunswick streets are always busy, but you’ll have to venture further to stumble across La Latteria. This

new ‘mozzarella laboratory’ offers artisan dairy products made daily by owners Kirsty Laird and Giorgio Linguanti. The burrata is my favourite so far, but the selection is so broad I haven’t made it through the entire range yet; I do love a mission, though. 104 Elgin St, Carlton, (03) 9347 9009.

gILLS DINERHere the good, honest European-style food is nearly outshone by the eclectic wine list that manager Lazlo Evenhuis speaks so passionately about. It’s all served in a space that’s a bit grungy yet functional, and oh so Melbourne. Rear 360 Little Collins St, Melbourne, (03) 9670 7214.

DAINTY SICHUANYou’d usually expect to find great Asian in an obscure CBD arcade or in a far-flung outer suburb – so Toorak Road in posh South Yarra seems an unlikely home for regional Chinese fare (admittedly, it was previously in a city lane). The service here can be patchy, but also rather sweet (they always warn me how hot it’s going to be)

and I just love the bold flavours and that numbing effect of Szechuan pepper. 176 Toorak Rd, South Yarra, (03) 9078 1686.

DoLCETTI The first time I went to Dolcetti, I thought it was closed – this plain shopfront conceals its sweet secrets well. Get in early to choose from the day’s full range; don’t miss the cheesecake with maraschino cherry topping or the pistachio amaretti. Prices are more than fair considering the quality, skill and love that is evident. 223 Victoria St, West Melbourne, (03) 9328 1688.

53 DEgREES EAST You could be forgiven for walking by and thinking this stall just has the usual fruits and nuts, but look closer and you’ll find a selection of dried white mulberries, wild figs, long Spanish pine nuts and more. The good people at 53 Degrees love to educate shoppers about their products; I always leave with a handful of something exciting and new. Prahran Market, 163 Commercial Rd, South Yarra, 0422 333 487.

Clockwise: Jackie at  Wall Two 80; Dolcetti’s dolce latte cheesecake; La Latteria specialises in artisan dairy 

products; sample sweet delights at Dolcetti.

From top: Nolan at Gigibaba; Seven Seeds leads the way in coffee; enjoy a Sunday roast and no-menu dining at The Commoner Restaurant.

nolan hirte A champion barista, Nolan built quite a following at Hawthorn’s Liar Liar, and is now doing the same at Proud Mary in Collingwood (a fellow tipster says the coffee there is “mind-blowingly good”). For Nolan, “Melbourne is a transient city, with so many different cultures, and there’s a huge range of experiences to be had. I love the fact that you can eat well at both the bottom and top ends of the market here.”

DUCHESS of SPoTSWooDThank you, Duchess, for bringing light to the west. Chef/owner Andrew Gale, who’s worked in great restaurants around the world, offers a sophisticated yet simple breakfast/lunch menu made with amazing produce. Partner Bobby Green uses Small Batch Specialty Coffee Roasters beans to deliver a complete package. 87 Hudsons Rd, Spotswood, (03) 9391 6016.

gIgIBABANo sign, no bookings; this restaurant is easily missed among the obscure shops of Smith Street. Bring friends to work your way through the mod Turkish menu (it’s perfect share food), then sit back and enjoy the theatrical staff. Chef/owner Ismail Tosun, who won rave reviews for his Perth restaurant Eminem, is bursting with ideas and a perfectionist of his trade. Top picks include the barbecued quail and eggplant-wrapped prawns with capsicum butter. 102 Smith St, Collingwood, (03) 9486 0345.

SEvEN SEEDS This much-praised micro-roaster tucked away in a back street in Carlton North is worth seeking out – the effort they put into sourcing the best green beans on the planet is inspiring. There’s usually a half-dozen single origins and four blends on offer, all carefully selected and roasted. It is pioneers like Seven Seeds that have firmly placed Melbourne coffee on the international stage. 114 Berkeley St, Carlton, (03) 9347 8664.

MARAzITA BRoS DELICATESSEN Make the trip to Williamstown to visit this continental deli, hidden in a shopping centre. It’s obvious that the Marazita family is serious about their smallgoods, with knowledge passed down from father to sons. As well as Australian and Italian cheeses, clotted cream, pasta, bread and other pantry staples, they offer pre-packed picnic baskets and take-home meals – just make sure you bring a friend to help you carry all your bags. 4/19-21 Douglas Pde, Williamstown, (03) 9399 9092.

MARKET LANE CoffEE Two coffee suppliers on a list of just six? Given my passion for good coffee, it shouldn’t be a surprise and both deserve a mention. Their practice of selecting some of the worlds’ finest green beans, importing fresh-crop and roasting in-house makes Market Lane, located at the back entrance to the Prahran Markets, a place to remember. Prahran Market, 163 Commercial Rd, South Yarra, (03) 9804 7434.

THE CoMMoNER RESTAURANTSitting at the Commoner – part simple bistro, part bar – I can’t help but feel at home. The staff are well versed in the menu, often recounting the food’s journey to your plate. An ever-changing seasonal menu with big, modern British flavours and carefully chosen produce brings real comfort food to your table. Sundays are particularly special as they’ve revived the roast lunch with verve, and on Sunday night it’s no-menu dining – after a few questions when booking, the chef will cater to the individual tastes of your table. 122 Johnston St, Fitzroy, (03) 9415 6876.

the guide.

the guide.

necia wildenCo-editor of Food + Wine in The Weekend Australian Magazine, Necia Wilden reckons that, “Sydney has all that harbour bling, which leaves Melbourne with a highly developed talent for making a virtue of understatement. Some of the best places are in the least obvious locations; finding them is part of an unofficial initiation rite that marks your transition from tourist to part of the Melbourne club.”

fINAL STEP Among the beauty salons of South Yarra, it’s easy to miss this small, low-key, low-budget cafe. “Final Step” is a reference to the chain of specialty coffee production from farm to cup, and a signal that young Kiwi proprietor Ben Whitaker is serious about the stuff. And single-minded: there’s coffee, a few slices and that’s about it. 1C Murphy St, South Yarra, 0414 503 248.

SHo NooDLE BAROnce you’ve recovered from the shock of finding a noodle oasis in the middle of a casino – past the pokies, turn right – prepare yourself for a bigger shock: Shò does some of the best char kway teow anywhere. Crown Entertainment Complex, 8 Whiteman St, Southbank, (03) 9292 6885.

CoDA BAR + RESTAURANTDespite windows looking up to Flinders Lane, underground and uber-hip Coda is a little coy about revealing itself until you turn the corner into Oliver Lane. Once you’ve cracked Coda, however, it’s all good times, a welcoming bar, a complete lack of pretension and high-performance modern Asian food from Adam D’Sylva. 141 Flinders La, Melbourne, (03) 9650 3155.

MoNK BoDHI DHARMAWhat a prime location for a new-wave coffee joint: in a red brick shed down a cobbled laneway, the only clue from the Carlisle Street corner a black-and-white poster promoting Monk Bodhi Dharma’s “sustainable and healing foods”. The vego food will make you feel virtuous; the coffee – carefully sourced, beautifully made – will just make you feel great. Rear 202 Carlisle St, Balaclava, (03) 9534 7250.

IzAKAYA DENWhat’s ‘incognito’ in Japanese? In the true spirit of Tokyo, Izakaya Den has no signage worth mentioning and takes first-timers on a little teasing tour down two flights of stairs before revealing itself. If you thought this was a deterrent, you’d be wrong. Izakaya rocks. Prop yourself at the long bar and be seduced by the cliche-free menu, the design, the wine and sake list, and the staff who seem to really enjoy looking after your every whim. Basement, 114 Russell St, Melbourne, (03) 9654 2977.

SPARRoW’S NESTSometimes a business can be hidden in the middle of a CBD street if it’s the last thing you’d expect to find there. Such is the case with Sparrow’s Nest, a chirpy little cafe on the ground floor of an Art Deco building in the legal hub of Queen Street. The organic scones on the menu neatly encapsulate the synergy between old and new that gives this spot so much appeal. Plus, the tea is served in floral-pattern china cups. 95 Queen St, Melbourne, (03) 8637 2177.

Clockwise from top right: Izakaya Den’s spicy tuna tataki; Necia at Izakaya Den; Coda’s spanner crab, galangal, chilli and lime betel leaf; Coda Bar + Restaurant.

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the guide.

jake nicholsonWinner of the 2008 Appetite for Excellence Young Chef of the Year award, Jake works as sous chef at St Kilda’s Circa, the Prince. “What I love about Melbourne is that people are always out and about, there’s always something happening, and new cafes and restaurants opening all the time. There are so many cultures on our doorstep, too – it’s just a matter of finding where those doors are.” MART 130Here’s at least one good reason to make the most of public transport – at least until you reach tram stop 130 on the 96 line. The former station master’s building is now home to Mart. Breakfast on perfect eggs or French toast with blueberry compote. The produce is well selected and you’ll have enough coin left over for a coffee and the tram trip home. 107A Canterbury Rd, Middle Park, (03) 9690 8831.

RED DooR ANTIqUES YUM CHAWhen I first visited Red Door I came looking for something to eat, but I was pleased to learn that if I fancied any knick knacks,

I could just add them to my bill. Best of all, when the wonton-wrapped delights hit the table, there’s no question about the quality, from the lotus leaf rice to the custard buns. 1 McIlwrick St, Windsor, (03) 9510 9658.

MATCH BAR & gRILLMatch boasts a unique reason to trot up the stairs and pay a visit: a wine tunnel where you use a swipe card to select from more than 30 wines. A taste of a top-end pinot noir is certainly a little easier on the wallet this way. The dining room is one of the best places in town to get a steak, and there are posh burgers and seafood, too. 249 Little Lonsdale St, Melbourne, (03) 9654 6522.

MEzzE TABLEWhenever I go to the Queen Vic Market, I absolutely must go to the borek stand. There’ll be a queue (there always is), but $2.50 buys you a golden pastry filled with spinach and cheese, lamb or vegies. There’s no time for pleasantries, just give your order and go, but it’s still one of the best (and cheapest) lunches around. Shop 95-96, Dairy Produce Hall, Queen Victoria Market, 513 Elizabeth St, Melbourne.

PHo DzUNg With so many Vietnamese options around, it’s good know where you’ll get bang for your buck. This place does quick and tasty pho noodle soup all day. There are beef and chicken, but why not be brave and try one of the more authentic styles that include tripe or brisket? 234b Russell St, Melbourne, (03) 9663 8885.

SISTER BELLASituated down a laneway, off another laneway and past some dumpsters, Sister Bella’s visitors will rejoice when they finally spot the Coopers Pale Ale sign above the door. Inside, some seriously funky retro stuff, killer cocktails, choice beers, laidback tunes and booths to sink into make for a great night. They’re open for cheap nosh and coffee during the day, too. 22 Drewery La (enter via Sniders Ln), Melbourne. d.Download local food features and podcasts from 774 ABC Melbourne at: abc.net.au/melbourne.

Clockwise: Jake at Mart 130; Match Bar & Grill; smoked salmon 

with poached eggs at Mart 130.