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Mendocino County boasts a bountiful array of unique restaurants, with memorable dining experiences, magnificent views and delectable delights to satisfy any craving. Locally produced and organically grown ingredients, as well as freshly baked goods, are a hallmark of many restaurants throughout the county. You’ll find cuisine ranging from Thai to Italian to French to North Coast favorites, and enjoy ambience spanning from fine dining to cozy pubs to comfortable, relaxed coffee houses. Pick one. You can’t go wrong!

Mendocino County Restaurant Guide

Mendocino County Restaurants –Something for every dining desire

Hooray for Sangiovese!by Charlie Barra, Barra of Mendocino and Girasole Vineyards

After being a farmer for 65 years, I really try not to play favorites. My Pinot Noir provides me with challenges unlike any other varietal, but the payoff in the bottle is worth every gray hair. And my Petite Sirah are some of my oldest and best producing vines. But if stranded on a desert island and forced to pick the one varietal that I would want to take with me, it would be Sangiovese! Now you may ask yourself “isn’t this the same grape used to make the everyday Italian table wine Chianti?” Well, yes it is. But did you also know that certain clones of Sangiovese (the Grosso clone) are also used to make the well respected Brunello di Montalcino wines that date back to the 1870’s? It is also the main component in the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines, comprised of a blend of 60-80% Sangiovese grapes combined with Caniolo Nero and some other authorized “international” varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The inland valley of Ukiah, CA (specifically Redwood Valley) is the perfect location to grow this varietal. Similar to the climate in Tuscany where it originated, Sangiovese prefers a hot, dry climate. With its thin skins, too much moisture can lead to bunch rot. In the vineyard, these grapes mature slowly – slower than all my other varietals. They take a long time to ripen, giving us what we call a “long hang-time.” During harvest, I will let my Sangiovese grapes get almost to the point of shriveling before picking

them so that my winemaker can work with the optimum levels of fruit. But probably the most enjoyable component of Sangiovese is its ability to pair well with all different kinds of food. Typically exhibiting a medium to full body style, Sangiovese will pair with anything from a meat-based red sauce or a smoked turkey at Thanksgiving, to pasta with grilled zucchini. So the next time you see a bottle of Sangiovese on the shelf, you just might want to consider stashing it away for your desert island collection!

Charlie Barra, owner of BARRA of Mendocino and Girasole Vineyards wines, has been farming organic grapes in Mendocino County for over 65 years. He is currently enjoying the newly released 2006 BARRA of Mendocino Sangiovese and the 2008 Girasole Vineyards Sangiovese.

Barra of Mendocino Winery is located in the heart of the Mendocino Wine Country, approximately two hours north of San Francisco just off Highway 101. The winery is open daily from 10:00 am – 5:00 pm, and is located at 7051 N. State Street, Redwood Valley, CA 95470. Phone 707 485-0322, or visit www.barraofmendocino.com.

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The North State Café

Let’s take a ride: after clawing its way north across unfinished mountainsides tumbling into a restless sea, our road leads to Afternoon Tea and Dinner at the Westport Hotel. For the civilized artform of Tea, Saturday afternoons from 3 pm until 5 pm, we sit with friends in the Hotel’s quiet back parlor. Out the window across Westport Headlands, an infinite ocean sparkles while we sip our choice of won-derful teas and linger until every crumb from a delightful tower of fresh-baked savory and sweet delicacies is gone. Intrigued, we return for dinner. Fog plays cat and mouse with the sun as we ride, then stroll on Westport’s secret black sand beach. The lovingly restored Hotel and the gentle staff reset our pace to something from the middle of the last century. Feeling “locavoracious,” we order the salad of baby lettuces from nearby Wages Creek: delicately dressed so the freshness shines through. We are tempted by Good Luck dumplings stuffed with pork, lemongrass, and shiitakes and the yam fries, but for starters, seasonal

soup: heirloom tomato soup that’s piquant without disguising the spe-cial flavors of the tomatoes. Our ten-der, perfectly grilled Covelo hanger steak swims in a lovely chunky ber-naise and is punctuated tastily with deep-fried potato puffs and a delicious melange of greens and bacon. Another time we’ll try the rock shrimp “mac and cheese,” the grilled corn and ricotta ravioli, and the pub meals including beer-battered fish and chips. Luckily, we save room for dessert, but choosing is hard: will it be Aunt Dorine’s cheesecake with fresh berries, or cherry-peach-rhubarb cobbler with vanilla ice cream? We choose Dow’s favorite chocolate layer cake, and are so glad we did that we order an extra piece for later.

Westport Hotel & Old Abalone Pub, 37040 N. Highway 1, Westport. 707 964-3688.

Westport Hotel: Delicious DestinationReviewed by Gus T. Torrey

Review by Jill Schmuckley

The North State Cafe is hardly a traditional café. The comfortable sleek, contemporary setting, cloth napkins on the tables, and select list of local wines make this a place to bring business associates or family friends. Carol and Christopher Schallert have served fine menu selections for over 17 years. All breads are baked fresh daily, and every sauce is freshly prepared with local ingredients, down to the salad dressings and chutneys. Meats and fish are fresh. For lunch I had a tough decision to make: stick with one of my favorites, Pasta Marsala with green salad, or try the Calamari Steak Sandwich. I opted for the Calamari Steak sandwich. The firm fresh “fish” meat was tender and filling. The sandwich roll was freshly baked that morning. The side of coleslaw was perfection, just the right blend of dressing and crisp slaw. The rest of the lunch menu includes a variety of fresh “California” salads, pastas, sandwiches, burgers, soups and specialties, including a BBQ Tri-Tip Sandwich, Polenta Ragu, and Grilled Polenta. Of course, I couldn’t pass up the Pasta Marsala. I took home an order to go for dinner. The savory fla-

vors of chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms and marsala sauce over pasta are very satisfying. Carol prepares many traditional Italian pasta dishes, but she adds her own special flair. Cajun Pasta is a favorite. Fresh grilled salmon, seafood, char-grilled steaks, and specialty appetizers fill out the dinner menu. The dessert menu is dif-ferent every day. Some of the choices are Chocolate Cream Cake, Carrot Cake, Lemon Crème Brulee, and Strawberry Pavolva. Carol’s secret cooking passion is pastries. The results can be found in her catering menus, and special des-serts.

Lunch: Monday – Friday, 11 am – 2 pm Dinner: Wednesday – Saturday, 5 pm – 9 pm Open for large parties by reservation.www.northstatecafe.com707 462-3726, 263 N. State Street, Ukiah

Check Out These Special Restaurants

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Every winter, around the holidays especially, I find myself missing the snow. Ah, the pristine new-fallen blan-ket, covering everything, the sledding, the winter fun. But then I start thinking about the shoveling, the icy roads, and grey slush after the first few cars have passed over, and I’m glad I’m not dealing with that. I do though try to bring the winter fun into the kitchen with our version of a buche de Noel, or Yule log. Our North Coast Yule log features Douglas Fir Gelato, Candy Cap Mushroom Meringues and, to me, evokes the forest flavor of Mendocino County in a winning winter dessert. It’s fun to make. There’s something appealing to me about making trompe l’oeil food; when I was a kid I was an avid modeler and wanted to build dioramas for the Smithsonian when I grew up. I know I’m not alone in this, as Yule log desserts have long been popular. If you are reading this in October, in the middle of what I think of as our summer, I apologize. It’s hard to imagine winter on the coast when the sun is usually blazing, the crush is on in the vineyards, and the ocean looks invit-ing. I also apologize for whetting your appetite for some-thing you won’t be able to try if you are a visitor to our area in October and early November. But I will leave you with the recipe for the Douglas Fir Gelato and the Candy Cap Mushroom Meringues. The genoise and frosting for the log you can find in your favorite baking book. Any chocolate roulade or jelly roll recipe will do.

Douglas Fir Gelato3 long sprigs of Douglas Fir needles2 cups heavy cream1 cup milk1 cup sugar4 egg yolks

Place needles, cream, and milk in a medium saucepot and heat gently until just before boiling. Turn off heat and let infuse for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk the yolks and sugar together in a metal bowl large enough to hold all the ingredients. Strain the warm cream mixture over the yolks, whisking all the while to avoid cooking the yolks. Cook over simmering water, stirring with a rubber spatula until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain and cool. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Candy Cap Mushroom Meringues3 large egg whites1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar3/4 cup sugar2 Tbs dried candy cap mushrooms

Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Process sugar and candy caps in the food processor until the mushrooms have turned to fine powder. In the bowl of your electric mixer, with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites on low-medium speed until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and continue to beat the whites until they hold soft peaks. Add the powdered candy cap mixture, a little at a time, and continue to beat until the meringue holds very stiff peaks. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Before placing the cookies on the cookie sheet, place a little of the meringue on the underside of each corner of the parchment paper. This will prevent the paper from sliding. Transfer the meringue to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2 inch tip. Pipe mushroom cap sized rounds of meringue in rows on the prepared baking sheet. Then, with a smaller tip, pipe stems in lines away from the rounds. They will be attached after you bake them. Bake the meringues for approximately 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours, until pale colored and crisp. Let cool completely before removing from sheet. Attach the stems using some of the frosting from the Yule log.

Timber and Mushrooms for Dessertby Nicholas Petti, Chef/Owner, Mendo Bistro

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Two miles south of Mendocino village

707.937.5942

www.LittleRiverInn.com

Little River InnRestaurant

Family favorites meet

Fine Cuisine

The Pier Chowder House & Tap Room

Chowder, Seafood, Burgers and MoreFresh local ingredients, prepared

for your dining pleasure. 31 beers on tap and an extensive wine list.

Located at historic Arena Cove in Point Arena at 790 Port Road

Open daily, 11-9

707 882-3400

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MendocinoCafé

GOOD FOOD FORTHE WHOLE FAMILY

OPEN FOR LUNCH &DINNER SEVEN DAYS A WEEK

FREE RANGE CHICKEN, GRASS FED BEEF & WILD OCEAN

CAUGHT SEAFOOD

PASTA, PRODUCE,POTATOES, RICE & BEANS

CERTIFIED ORGANIC

LOCAL, ORGANIC ANDBIODYNAMIC WINES

MICROBREWERY BEERS

PLUS THE EVER POPULARTHAI BURRITO, MEAL-SIZED SALADS AND IRRESISTIBLE

HOMEMADE DESSERTS

SEASONAL ORGANIC SPECIALSADDED DAILY10451 LANSING ST., MENDOCINO • 707-937-6141

THE LEDFORD HOUSE RESTAURANT BISTRO DINING OPEN WED-SUN 5:00

OCEAN VIEW SUNSET COCKTAILS JAZZ3000 N. HIGHWAY 1 ALBION 707.937.0282

WWW.LEDFORDHOUSE.COM

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CAFE BEAUJOLAISn Dine in understated elegancen Seasonal Garden Deck Dining / Pet Friendlyn Fresh bread daily from our wood fired brick ovenn Open year round

A MENDOCINO LANDMARK FOR OVER 30 YEARS

Lunch Wed-Sun 11:30-2:30

For Reservations,Call 937-5614

Dinners nightly starting at 5:30

9 6 1 U k i a h S t r e e t , M e n d o c i n o • w w w . C a f e B e a u j o l a i s . c o m

Seasonal North CoastCuisine with Garden

and Ocean Views

Serving Lunch & DinnerIndoor & Outdoor Seating Available

Dinner Reservations Welcomed

Kasten at Albion, Mendocino • 707 937-4323

Visit our website: www.themoosse.com

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Char-Broiled Burgers • Chicken Fresh-Cut Fries • Thick Shakes

Best Burgers on the North Coast for 20 Years

Follow The Path Behind the Bakery

Lansing St., Mendocino937-1111

“…straddlessophisticationand comfort”SUNSET MAGAZINE

“Don’t missthis hidden

gem…”WINE SPECTATOR

Beginning at 6 p.m. ´ Thursday thru Sunday

955 UKIAH STREET, MENDOCINO707-937-1955 ´ www.955restaurant.com

Organic ProduceGroceries & Bulk FoodsNutritional Consultants

Herbs & TeasSupplements & Remedies

Personal Care & HousewaresGifts & Gift Certificates

Featuring Gluten Free Products

8 am - 8 pm dailywww.cornersofthemouth.com

A Natural Food StoreIn the red church on

Ukiah Street, Mendocino707 937-5345

301 North Main Street at the corner of Redwood Avenue, Fort Bragg 707 964-4974 • www.mendobistro.com

Local Seafood • Fresh Pasta • Vegetarian Dishes Steaks • Beer & Wine • Great Desserts

“Chef Nicholas Petti continues his amazing track record at this Fort Bragg labor of love...Top Food-Mendocino County” Zagat 2008“Number 1 out of 21 in Fort Bragg”TripAdvisor.com

Dinner Nightly 5 - 9

Locals Love

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ESPRESSO

FRESH JUICES

BELGIAN WAFFLESPASTRIES

GRILLED ITALIANFOCACCIA SANDWICHESWIDE VARIETY OF

DELICIOUS ENTREESFRESH SALADS, SOUPS

& DESSERTS

Entertainment Every NightWI-FI ZONE

Sunday - Thursday • 7AM - 10 PMWINTER - WE CLOSE ON SUNDAY AT 8PM

Friday & Saturday • 7AM - 11 PM

120 E. LAUREL STFT. BRAGG, CA

www.headlandscoffeehouse.com707 964-1987

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FORT BRAGG BERNILLO’S Pizzeria, Subs & Salads220 E. Redwood Avenue 964-9314

CAFÉ 1 Organic Breakfast & Lunch753 N. Main Street • 964-3309

CLIFF HOUSE OF FORT BRAGG Seafood & Steak1011 S. Main Street 961-0255

D’AURELIO’S Fine Italian & Pizza438 S. Franklin Street 964-4227

DOWN HOME FOODS Lunch Deli115 S. Franklin Street 964-4661

EGGHEAD’S RESTAURANT Breakfast & Lunch326 N. Main Street • 964-5005

FORT BRAGG BAKERY360 N. Franklin Street964-7761

FORT BRAGG STEAK HOUSEBreakfast, Lunch & Dinner332 S. Main Street • 962-0539

FRANKLIN STREET CAFÉ223 N. Franklin Street964-1620

HARVEST MARKET Organic, natural and traditional products & servicesHwy. 1 & Hwy. 20 • 964-7000Catering by Margaret Fox, full service deli, bakery and prod-ucts from gourmet to everyday. Online shopping and delivery available. Open 7 days a week, 5 am-11 pm.

HEADLANDS COFFEEHOUSEEspresso Coffee House120 E. Laurel Street 964-1987

HOME STYLE CAFÉ Breakfast & Lunch790 S. Main Street • 964-6106

LA COSTENA MEXICAN RESTAURANTCorner Main & Chestnut 964-7931

LA PLAYA MEXICAN RESTAURANT & BAR 552 N. Main • 964-4074

LAUREL DELI & DESSERTS Breakfast & Lunch401 N. Main Street, Ste. 502964-7812

LEE’S CHINESE RESTAURANTFamily Chinese154 E. Redwood Avenue 964-6843

LIVING LIGHT INTERNATIONAL301-B N. Main StreetIn the Company Store 964-2420Making Healthy Living delicious!Cuisine to Go, an organic raw vegan café, Culinary Arts Institute: gourmet classes in raw cuisine. Marketplace-a healthy lifestyle boutique.

MENDO BISTRO Contemporary American301 N. Main Street In the Company Store 964-4974Fun, creative food from a completely scratch kitchen. Presented by friendly, energetic, professional waiters. Open every night from 5 pm to 9 pm.

MENDOCINO COOKIE CO. Espresso Shop303 N. Main Street In the Company Store 964-0282

NIT’S CAFÉInternational Cuisine322 N. Main Street • 964-7187

NORTH COAST BREWING TAPROOM & GRILL California Cuisine444 N. Main Street • 964-3400Award-winning beer, local wines & great food served in generous portions, in a relaxed atmo-sphere. State of the art function room available.

OFF THE HOOK SUSHINigri, Udon, Teriyaki & Sushi118 E. Redwood Avenue 964-3188

PIACI PUB & PIZZERIA Pizza & Salads20 W. Redwood Avenue 961-1133

THE PURPLE ROSEMexican24300 N. Hwy.1 • 964-6507

THE RENDEZVOUS INN & RESTAURANT Fine Dining647 N. Main Street • 964-8142

THE RESTAURANT Fine Dining418 N. Main Street • 964-9800

TAKA’S GRILL Japanese & Sushi250 N. Main Street • 964-5204

V’ CANTOLate Night Italian124 E. Laurel Street 964-6844

VIRAPORN’S THAI CAFEThai16801 Ocean Drive 962-0717

NOYO HARBORCAP’N FLINTS Family Seafood32250 N. Harbor Drive 964-9447

CHAPTER & MOON Gourmet American32150 N. Harbor Drive 962-1643

DOLPHIN ISLE MARINA DELIRiverside Deli32399 Basin • 964-4113

HERON’S BY THE SEA Italian Seafood32100 N. Harbor Drive 962-0680

SILVER’S AT THE WHARFFresh Seafood & Contemporary American32260 N. Harbor Drive 964-4283

MENDOCINO 955 UKIAH STREET RESTAURANTFine Dining955 Ukiah Street • 937-1955

BAY VIEW CAFÉRelaxed American45040 Main Street • 937-4197

CAFE BEAUJOLAISFine Dining961 Ukiah Street • 937-5614A menu inspired by California cuisine, a bounty of fresh ingre-dients and outstanding fresh bread from a wood-fire red brick oven.

CORNERS OF THE MOUTHNatural Foods • Gluten Free Products45015 Ukiah Street 937-5345

CULTURED AFFAIR CAFÉSandwiches, Salads, YogurtCorner of Kasten & Albion 937-1430

FRANKIE’S HAND MADE ICE CREAM & PIZZA PARLORIce Cream, Pizza, Soup 44951 Ukiah Street 937-2436

HARVEST AT MENDOSA’S Ready-to-go products and groceries10501 Lansing Street 937-5879Full service meat and seafood counter, fresh produce, beer & wine, sushi and ready-to-go sandwiches made daily. Open 7 days a week, 7:30 am to 10 pm.

MACCALLUM HOUSE INN & RESTAURANTFine Dining45020 Albion Street 937-0289

MENDO BURGERSBurgers, Thick Malts & Fresh Cut French Fries10483 Lansing Street 937-1111Known for the best burgers on the North Coast for over 20 years. Family dining, pet friendly.

MENDOCINO CAFÉMendocino Cuisine10451 Lansing Street 937-6141International dishes, organic produce, wild-harvested fresh seafood, beans, rice, pasta, Mendocino County grass-fed beef, free-range chicken, all GMO-free. Outside dining with ocean views.

MENDOCINO HOTEL VICTORIAN DINING & GARDEN CAFÉFine Dining, Bar Menu45080 Main Street • 937-0511

MENDOCINO MARKETDeli, Sandwiches, Picnic Foods45051 Ukiah Street 937-3474

MOODYS ORGANIC COFFEE BARCoffee Bar10450 Lansing Street 937-4843

PATTERSON’S PUBBar Menu10485 Lansing Street 937-4782

Restaurant Guide

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THE MOOSSE CAFÉSeasonal North Coast390 Kasten at Albion Street 937-4323North Coast cuisine with Mediterranean influences. Ocean and garden views with indoor and outdoor seating.

THE RAVENS AT THE STANFORD INN BY THE SEAVegetarian CuisineHwy. 1 & Comptche-Ukiah Road 937-5615Prepares vegan and vegetarian cuisine with produce from their California Certified Organic farm and other organic producers.

THANKSGIVING COFFEE COMPANYCoffee and Espresso Bar10485 Lansing St. • 937-0836Locally roasted artisanal coffees, bakery and cafe fare. Deep dish pizza by the slice.

LITTLE RIVER &ALBIONALBION RIVER INNFine DiningHwy. 1, Albion • 937-4044Features succulent fresh seafood and gourmet dishes such as oven-roasted quail, filled with chicken mousseline flavored with bacon. Romantic ocean view.

LA PETITE RIVEGourmet Dining at 5:30 & 8 pm 7750 N. Hwy. 1, Little River 937-4945

LEDFORD HOUSE RESTAURANTFine Dining3000 N. Hwy. 1, Albion937-0282

LITTLE RIVER INN RESTAURANTFine DiningHwy. 1, Little River • 937-5942Little River Inn’s restaurant and bar are known for their warm and friendly atmosphere.

LITTLE RIVER MARKET & DELIGourmet Deli7746 N. Hwy 1, Little River937-5133

STEVENSWOOD RESTAURANTNouvelle American8211 N. Hwy. 1, Little River937-2810

ELKBRIDGET DOLAN’SCalifornia Grill & Bar Menu5910 S. Hwy. 1 707 877-1820

GREENWOOD PIER CAFÉ/INN & COUNTRY STORECalifornia Cuisine5928 S. Hwy. 1 707 877-9997

QUEENIE’S ROADHOUSE CAFÉBreakfast & LunchHwy. 1 • 707 877-3285

POINT ARENAPIZZA & CREAMGourmet Pizza & Ice CreamArena Cove • 707 882-1900

THE PIER CHOWDER HOUSE & TAP ROOMChowder, Seafood, Burgers and More790 Port Road 707 882-3400Fresh local ingredients, prepared for your dining pleasure. 31 beers on tap and an extensive wine list. Located at historic Arena Cove in Point Arena. Open daily, 11 am - 9 pm. ANCHOR BAYMARIACHISMexican35501 S. Hwy. 1 707 884-1735

REDWOOD GRILLCasual Fine Dining35517 S. Hwy. 1 707 884-1639

GUALALABONES ROADHOUSEBarbecued RibsHwy. 1 • 707 884-1188

CAFÉ LA LASoups, Salads & SandwichesCypress Village 707 884-1104

GOURMET PIZZA & ICE CREAM38920 S. Hwy. 1707 884-1574

TOP O’ THE CLIFFFine DiningHwy. 1, Seacliff Center 707 884-1539

THE SEA RANCHTHE SEA RANCH LODGE & RESTAURANTCalifornia Cuisine60 Sea Walk Drive 707 785-2371

ANDERSON VALLEYBOONVILLE HOTELCalifornia CuisineHighway 128, Boonville 707 895-2210

LAUREN’SEclectic American International14211 Highway 128Boonville • 707 895-3869

LIBBY’S RESTAURANTMexicanHighway 128, Philo 707 895-2646

UKIAHELLIE’S MUTT HUT& VEGETARIAN CAFETofu, Vegetarian, Hamburgers732 S. State Street 707 468-5376

FORKS CAFE Home Style Breakfast/Lunch 3166 N. State • 707 462-4530

NORTH STATE CAFECasual fine dining, fresh ingredients, Wines & Beer263 N. State St.707 462-3726

OCO TIMEJapanese Cuisine111 W. Church Street 707 462-2422

PATRONA BISTRO & WINE BARClassic, Contemporary Cuisine130 W. Standley Street707 462-9181

RUEN TONG THAI CUISINEFresh Ingredients, Beer, Wine List801 N. State Street 707 462-0238

SCHAT’S COURTHOUSE BAKERY & CAFEBakery, Breakfast, Lunch 113 W. Perkins 707 462-1670

THE HIMALAYAN CAFÉNepalese & Indian Cuisine 1639 S. State Street 707 467-9900

UKIAH BREWING CO. & RESTAURANTCertified Organic & Beer 102 S. State Street 707 468-5898

WALTER CAFÉ920 N. State • 707 462-2080

WILLITSAL’S REDWOOD ROOMThai & American, Full Bar207 S. Main Street707 459-2444

ANNA’S ASIAN HOUSESzechuan & Asian Cuisine47 E. Mendocino Avenue707 459-6086

THE PURPLE THISTLECalifornia Cuisine50 S. Main Street 707 459-4750

HOPLAND CRUSHED GRAPE GRILL Pizza, Seafood13500 S. Hwy. 101 707 744-2020

MENDOCINO BREWING COMPANY TAVERN13351 S. Hwy. 101

REDWOOD VALLEY THE BROILER STEAK HOUSE 8400 Uva Drive 707 485-7301

LAKE COUNTY BLUE WING SALOON & CAFE9520 Main StreetUpper Lake707 275-2233

CACTUS GRILL RESTAURANT3900 Baylis AvenueClearlake707 994-0905

MOUNTAIN HIGH COFFEE HOUSE9495 Main Street Upper Lake

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The idea of wine labels as art is not a new one. Collectable artist’s series wine labels, often sold as posters and lithographs, have graced the walls of tasting rooms, homes and offices since the early 1970’s. One could argue that every product label is, at some level, a work of art. In Mendocino County, however, we have a talented art-ist who has managed to fully integrate his visual arts into the art of winemaking, from the label on the bottle to the finished wine inside. Toby Hill, a native San Franciscan who spent his formative years surrounded by Manhattan’s modern art scene, began his career painting and drawing, influenced by the abstract graffiti movement in the 1980’s. He returned to San Francisco in the 1990’s, developing colors for a line of Italian decorative plaster he was importing and distributing. The success of this business led him to begin searching for property in rural northern California on which to build a home and studio. A friend had settled in Comptche, and advised that he “forget Sonoma and Napa” and settle in Mendocino County. After purchasing a beautiful piece of land outside Elk, Toby built a barn home, and, in 2001, relocated permanently. In 2002, he had the opportunity to purchase a couple of barrels of Pinot Noir juice from Shandel’s Oppenlander vineyard in Comptche. Toby viewed the idea of making wine as a new avenue for his artistic expression. In the worst case, he could end up with 100 cases of decent wine at a very reasonable cost. He could not have anticipated

that the winemaking experience would become an obses-sion. Unlike someone who approaches the production of wine from a commercial perspective, Toby views it with an artist’s vision. The expression of the grapes would be communicated both in the bottle and on the bottle, pro-viding a complete sensory experience. From this conver-gence, Phillips Hill Estates was born. Toby’s wine labels are original abstract art pieces; visual reflections of each wine’s separate personality. His most recent labels, for the 2008 Beeson Tree Pinot Noir, the 2008 Oppenlander Pinot Noir and the 2008 Ring of Fire Pinot Noir, are especially arresting. The 2008 vintage was shaped by the Mendocino Lightning Complex fires, which cloaked the county in smoke for most of that year’s growing season. Rather than filter or extract the wine to remove any traces of the smokiness, and prompted by the presence of tobacco and earth flavors in premier Pinot Noir vintages not affected by fires, Toby opted to embrace the smoke influence in the wines, and work with it to syn-thesize these singular blends. Phillips Hill markets their wines mostly through the Philo tasting room. Toby considers personal interac-tion with his customers essential in the development of his wines. The name “Ring of Fire” came as a result of a customer tasting a barrel sample of the 2008 blend, and describing an image of sipping the Pinot while sitting by his campfire in nearby Hendy Woods State Park. Toby’s philosophy is that winemaking, like any other art, is best

by Julia Conway

The Art of Wine Labels

45

when shared directly with his audience. As a smaller pro-ducer, Phillips Hill does not follow the conventional path of producing wines targeted toward a particular critic’s taste profile. Toby insists on the freedom to mold the char-acter of his wines on an indi-vidual basis, usually produc-ing small lot vineyard-specific Pinot Noir. It was the chal-lenging circumstances of the 2008 vintage that prompted him to undertake the produc-tion of blended wines, and he found the experience reminis-cent of blending pigments and colors for an art piece. Toby’s tasting room is the essential Mendocino County experience. It is intimate, fun, convivial and unintimidat-ing. Rather than depending on numeric scores to sell his wines, Toby engages directly with his customers. He occa-sionally submits his wines to

regional competitions, such as the San Francisco Chronicle’s annual tasting, to elicit feed-back from professional tasters. His 2008 Beeson Tree Pinot Noir took a double Gold in this year’s competition, pitted against the much lauded 2007 vintage Pinots entered by the other wineries. If Toby could express his wines in one word, it would be “authentic.” With an art-ist’s eye and a winemaker’s pal-ate, he sculpts flavor, mouth feel, aroma, and the compel-ling visuals of his labels into an evocative experience like no other.

Phillips Hill Estates Winery8627 Highway 128 Philo, CA, 707 895-2209www.phillipshillestates.com