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The license plates of Chihuahua, Mexicos largest state, label it Tierra de Encuentro (roughly

Land of Discovery), an apt description that also fits its southern neighbor, Durango the other

large, rural state covered in this chapter. Come here to encounter the sometimes surreal natural

beauty: carpets of rainy-season wildflowers, spectacular thunderstorms and wide sweeps of

cerulean sky. Come here to feel the vibe of tranquilotowns, to hear the call of ancient, vanished

cultures and to see where many important moments of Mexican history happened.

In the Nahua language Chihuahua means dry and sandy zone. The Desierto Chihuahuense

(Chihuahuan Desert) that covers most of the state, and spreads well beyond, is North Americas

largest. The stark beauty of some of its mountain-lined desertscapes defies description.

For many, the sandy expanses are all they know of the region, but in the west rise the moun-

tains of the Sierra Madre Occidental, cradling fertile valleys and enigmatic archaeological ruins.

Chihuahua, Hidalgo del Parral and especially Durango have inviting colonial cores, and history

buffs can find museums about revolutionary hero Pancho Villa seemingly everywhere.

Why there are so few visitors here is a mystery. Ciudad Jurez sees some short-term border-

hoppers and Chihuahua gets a few foreigners waiting to board the Copper Canyon trains, but

most of the central north consists of quiet towns that havent been spruced up for tourists.

Some folk pass through and wonder what the fuss is about. For others, the first visit becomes

the beginning of a whole new journey, an intimate look at a different side of Mexico.

Central North Mexico

CHIHUAHUA JANUARY DAILY HIGH: 18C | 64F CHIHUAHUA JULY DAILY HIGH 32C | 89F

HIGHLIGHTS

Explore the pre-Hispanic cliffside dwellingsin the mountains near Madera, like Can deHupocas Cueva Grande(p367)

Soak up the colonial charm of Durango (p380)

Shop for pottery in Mata Ortiz(p365)

Get deep into Mina La Prieta(p376) inHidalgo del Parral and Mina Ojuela(p380)

near Mapim

Walk through the mysterious ruins of Paquim(p363)

La PrietaMina

Mina Ojuela

Mata Ortiz Paquim

Cueva Grande

Durango

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HistoryThis region of Mexico was the subject of manyfierce battles during the Revolution, givingrise to Pancho Villas Divisin del Norte, andit will quickly become clear that Villa (see

boxed text, p376) remains a revered hero inthese parts.

Youll also encounter lingering evidenceof the regions early wealth and importanceto the power centers further south, whetherit be the colonial towns of Chihuahua andDurango, the centuries-old mines aroundHidalgo del Parral and Torren or even theold railway station in Nuevo Casas Grandes.More recently the area was a Hollywood hot-

spot, its still-pristine vistas making great back-drops for countless classic Westerns.

But the most interesting central north his-tory harks back much further. The ruined cityof Paquim and ancient cliff dwellings likeCueva Grande and Cuarenta Casas are clearreminders that there were flourishing settle-ments of highly sophisticated peoples livinghere long before the Spanish arrived.

ClimateThis entire region is hot and dry with sum-mer temperatures over 40C not uncom-mon. Chihuahua is a bit wetter and warmerthan Durango. Snow is fairly common inthe mountains in winter, especially aroundMadera, but it can fall anywhere in the region.Remember, even in the summer, deserts getchilly after dark.

Parks & ReservesThough the area is very beautiful, there arefew large protected places. The most famousis the Reserva de la Biosfera Bolsn de Mapim(p380), a wild and remote desert. With mostvisitors bounding off to the Copper Canyon,Parque Nacional Cumbres de Majalco (p372)near Chihuahua is largely overlooked, butits eroded rocks offer good rock-climbingand hiking.

There are also beautiful mountain foreststo explore around Madera (p366) and alongHwy 40 (p384) west of Durango.

Getting There & AroundExcellent bus service and good roads maketraveling around this region very easy. Itsoften remote country, so if youre driving,dont set out beyond major highways withouta full tank of gas.

Most people heading into the region fromthe US cross at Ciudad Jurez (see boxed text,p363, for details). If your plans dont includeJurez you can bypass it (and the long waits)by using the hassle-free Santa Teresa crossing(open 6am to 10pm) in New Mexico, 12 milesnorthwest of downtown El Paso.

CIUDAD JUREZx656 / population 1.3 million / elevation 1145mNo doubt about it, Ciudad Jurez is an in-your-face kind of place. But, despite what youmay have heard, its really not all that bad. Onthe other hand, its modest roster of attractionsisnt all that good, and it lacks the charm ofmany other northern cities. In fact, it lacks anyreal charm at all. What it does have, however,

is energy.Jurez, the second busiest port of entry

on the USMexico border, relies heavily onthe constant ebb and flow of goods and peo-ple from its cross-river mate El Paso, Texas.Trucks full of raw materials and finished goodsroll in and out of the citys maquiladoras(for-eign-owned assembly plants) and Texas day-trippers stream over for bargain shoppingand medical care, or under-age drinking at

the bustling cantinas and clubs.Considering all the wonderful places wait-

ing further south, the conventional wisdom get out of town as quickly as possible isnot without merit, but odds are youll enjoya short stay here.

HistoryIn 1598, Conquistador Don Juan de Oate,known for his cruelty to the indigenous

WALK IN PANCHO VILLASFOOTSTEPS

This region is littered with sites made fa-mous by the revolutionary Pancho Villa.

His death is raucously marked each year byHidalgo del Parrals Las Jornadas Villistas(p377). Try the following sites to stand inplaces where the man made his mark.

Quinta Luz(Museo Histrico de laRevolucin Mexicana, p368)

Canutillo(p378)

Museo Francisco Villa (p376)

La Casa de los Milagros (p373)

Palacio Alvarado (p376)

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populations, forded the Ro Bravo hereduring his official expedition to colonizeNew Mexico. The crossing point he foundbecame a vital stop on the Camino Real deTierra Adentro (Royal Road of the Interior),

a 2560km trade route from Mexico City toSanta Fe, New Mexico.The Guadalupe Mission was founded in El

Paso del Norte (as Jurez was then known)in 1659, and eventually a thriving Wild Westtown grew up around it. The name waschanged in 1888 to honor President BenitoJurez who had fought the French occupationfrom here in 1865 and 1866.

In May 1911, during the Mexican

Revolution, Pancho Villa (see boxed text,p376) stormed the town, forcing the resig-nation of the dictator Porfirio Daz. Afterthe 1913 coup against President FranciscoMadero, Villa sought refuge in El Paso beforecrossing the river again with a handful of fol-lowers to begin another conquest of Mexico.Within months, he had recruited an army ofthousands, known as La Divisin del Norte,and in November he conquered Jurez for a

second time.The Revolution devastated the Mexicaneconomy, but Jurez began its boom yearsaround this time thanks to the USAsProhibition era (192033). Thirsty Americanscame from far and wide to enjoy Jurez livelyentertainment, both illicit and classy, and evenwhen beer came back many Americans con-tinued to live it up south of the border.

A second economic boom came after the

implementation of the North American FreeTrade Agreement (Nafta) in the mid-1990sas US manufacturers took advantage of low-cost labor in Mexico. The new jobs broughtthousands of new people from across Mexicoto work in the 400 maquiladoras.(Today only40% of Jurez residents were born here.) Butthe success hasnt spread evenly, and there aremassive slums on the outskirts.

Jurez most recent history has been rather

inglorious. The city is a key transit point forillicit drugs entering the US, and there hasbeen considerable violence between rivalgangs. More disturbing are the deaths anddisappearances of hundreds of young localwomen, many of them raped and tortured,since 1993. Dubbed the feminicides, themurders initially gained little attention fromthe local authorities or the media, and manycritics have denounced both local and na-

tional authorities for their indifference andperhaps even culpability. Thankfully, the rateof incidences have declined significantly inrecent years. Travelers should simply take thesame precautions they would in any town.

OrientationCiudad Jurez sprawls south from the RoBravo, but most places of interest are con-centrated in the central area near the twininternational bridges that connect Jurez toEl Paso. Av Jurez is the main drag throughCiudad Jurez, but the mostly pedestrian-ized area south of the Plaza de Armas offersmuch more rewarding shopping and people-

watching. East of the center is Zona Pronafwhere well-heeled locals and tourists, mostlyMexican Texans, with money to burn comeout to play. The main nightlife destinationsline Av Lincoln.

InformationAll businesses in Jurez accept US dollars, butits usually better to pay in pesos. There arecasas de cambio(exchange bureaus) all across

the city, including many on Av Jurez, whilebanks are clustered along Av 16 de Septiembre.For emergency services, dialx060.Comisiones San Luis(x614-20-33; cnr Avs Jurez &16 de Septiembre) Doesnt have the best rates for cash butit changes travelers checks (US$50 and US$100 denomina-tions only).Compu-Rent(per hr M$15) Main branch (cnr Av 16 deSeptiembre & Villa) Speedy computers, private booths anda hip young vibe. Theres a smaller branch at Av Jurez 243.

El Paso Tourist Information Center(x915-534-0600; Santa Fe St at Main Dr;h8am-5pm Mon-Fri,10am-3pm Sat & Sun)General Hospital(x613-15-71; Paseo Triunfo de laRepblica 2401) 24-hour emergency department.

Jurez Tourist Information Center(x611-31-74;www.visitajuarez.com; Av de las Amricas 2551;h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) Bilingual staff; stocksbrochures for Jurez and the rest of Mexico.Post office(cnr Av Lerdo & Pea)

Dangers & AnnoyancesBasic street smarts that might apply any-where apply in Ciudad Jurez, but the citysreputation is worse than its reality. Much ofthe crime is drug-related; tourists here forlegitimate travel will find Jurez welcomingand friendly. The main drag along Av Jurezuntil it meets Av 16 de Septiembre is well litand has a regular police presence so walking

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C E N T R A L N O R T H M E X I C O C i u d a d J u r e z Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

around is fine until late at night just dontstray down unlit side streets. East of Av Jurezis a seedy red-light district, which is bestavoided. To the south and west many streetsget eerily deserted very early in the evening;

generally, however, its safe to walk aroundthem for the first few hours after dark. Dontwalk over the Stanton StAv Lerdo bridgeat night.

Never accept free offers (rides, drinks etc),as theyre never free and can occasionally bedangerous.

SightsJurez unique cathedral(cnr Av 16 de Septiembre &

Mariscal;h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun), builtin 1935 and restored in 1976, is on the cen-tral Plaza de Armas. It has gorgeous stained-glass windows and an impressive neoclassicalfacade. Next door, the Misin de Guadalupe(h7:30am-7pm, till 3pm Thu), completed in 1668,has an intricately carved wooden ceiling.

The citys grand old customs buildingnow houses the Museo Histrico de Ciudad Jurez(Museo Ex-Aduana;x612-4707; cnr Avs Jurez & 16 de

Septiembre; admission free;h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)witha few rather flat and unimpressive exhib-its (labeled in Spanish) and some fantasticold photographs.

The conical Museo de Arte (x613-17-08; AvLincoln s/n; admission free;h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), inthe Zona Pronaf, is an architectural curios-ity. Its small, but the temporary exhibits canbe good.

SleepingBe prepared for less than deluxe accommoda-tions in Jurez, and be aware that most of thecheap hotels you pass as you walk around thecenter have 300% occupancy that is, guestspay by the hour.

BUDGETHotel Correo (x615-08-75; Av Lerdo 250 Sur; r fromM$130;a)The building, near the post office,

is crumbling, but the rooms are scrubbedas clean as can be and this little TLC makesCorreo one of the best bottom-budget betsin Jurez.

Gardner Hotel(x915-532-3661; www.gardnerhotel.com; 311 E Franklin Av, El Paso; dm US$20, r without/withbathroom from US$35/55;pnai)Some peopleprefer to visit Jurez as a daytrip from Texasbefore heading south, in which case this ElPaso institution is an ideal base. The Gardner,

which opened in 1922 and oozes characterand charm, offers both four-bed dorms (atthe time of writing some two-bed dorms wereplanned) and single rooms. The cheapest arerather rough around the edges while others

have been thoroughly fixed up: all pass thewhite glove test and have some original fur-nishings. Downstairs youll find a big kitchenand common room with a free pool table. Theowner, Joe, has a wealth of knowledge aboutthe area, and leads tours to area attractionslike Carlsbad Caverns (in New Mexico).

Hotel Imperial (x615-03-23; Vicente Guerrero 206;r M$300;pa)This funky place, with its bigorange wall of windows, isnt fancy, but its

cozy rooms (much cheerier than the hallways)are good value for the price.

MIDRANGEHotel Monaco (x617-17-30; www.hotelmonaco.com.mx; Paseo Triunfo de la Repblica 3335; s/d M$350/400;

pas) This motel-style place with largerooms is a very solid deal, even if you dontfactor in its high-class Zona Pronaf locale.

Plaza Continental Hotel(x615-00-84; Av Lerdo 112

Sur; s & d M$370, tr M$425;pa)Decent carpetedrooms are large and clean. An impressivelobby and a funky late-night diner make thisplace a step up from other similar propertiesin the area.

Hotel Impala(x615-04-31; www.hotel-impala.com;Av Lerdo 670 Nte; s, d & tr M$380, q M$440;pa)Closeto the border, near the Stanton St bridge, thisold standby has basic but kind-of-cute roomsand firm beds. Theres a restaurant (see p362)

and a jolly, plant-filled lobby.Hotel Suites El Paseo (x611-50-00; www.suiteselpaseo.com; Paseo Triunfo de la Repblica 4850; r from M$594;

pais)This colorful nouveau colonialstyle spot is a top-end hotel with midrangeprices. With fountains and statues aroundthe grounds, it has more pizzazz than Jurezmore expensive hotels.

TOP END

Hotel Lucerna(x629-99-00; www.lucerna.com.mx; PaseoTriunfo de la Repblica 3976; s/d/ste M$1480/1737/3318;pnais) Catering to business-classtravelers (weekend rates usually drop 15%),this luxurious option is a nice though priceyescape with a palm-studded pool area.

Eating & DrinkingFor cheap eats, you cant beat the ramshackleroadside stalls where Villa meets Pea. The

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fanciest options, as well as nearly all the inter-national flavors (from Japanese to Lebanese)are in and around Zona Pronaf. And if yourejust looking to get plastered, close your eyesand walk into the nearest doorway theres

a good chance it will be a bar. Bars open early(often at 8am!) and close at 2am.Villa del Mar(x612-58-90; Villa 130 Sur; mains M$17-

290)If youre downtown and ask a local whereyou should eat, many will point you to thissimple seafood specialist, even if all you wantis a taco.

Restaurant Impala (x615-04-31; Av Lerdo 670Nte; mains M$20-140)The menu, with its crypticEnglish translations, covers all the usuals, but

the massive breakfast platters (M$59) withfavorites from both sides of the border set thissimple hotel restaurant apart.

Fridas (x639-01-48; Paseo Triunfo de la Repblica2525; mains M$80-268) Jurez most beautifuldining room is full of art (including doz-ens of portraits of its namesake) and redvelvet booths. The food, a mix of Mexicanand Continental, probably wont wow youas much as the dcor, but most people leave

satisfied.Dal(x611-48-98; Meja 3118; snacks M$25-80;v)This tranquilo cafbar attracts a crowd ofintellectuals for coffee, wine, mixed drinksand hookahs. Grab one of the pillow-coveredcorners and youll melt right in.

Kentucky Club (x632-61-13; Av Jurez 629; 11am-2am)This polished-wood bar is a fine placeto sip a margarita. While the clubs claim tohave invented that particular cocktail sounds

like a publicity ploy, they do make a greatone. Classier than most other Av Jurezwatering holes.

EntertainmentIf youre hoping for fine arts, youll likely bedisappointed. Check the notably slim eventscalendar inJurez Life magazine.

Students at the Centro Municipal de las Artes(CMA;x615-28-28; Mariscal 105; admission free) be-

hind the cathedral perform folkloric dancesevery Sunday from 11am to 1pm. Otherdance, music and theater performances areheld occasionally.

For those who enjoy beer, wine, corndogsand art-house films, try El Cinito(The Little Cinema;x616-04-73; Av Lincoln 445; minimum purchase M$40; 9pmTue-Sun). At the same address is Capital(x616-20-89; Av Lincoln 445;h9pm-2am Thu-Sun), the topspot at the moment for dancing. It hosts live

bands and DJs, the latter sometimes spinningon the outdoor deck.

ShoppingEl Mercado Jurez (Av 16 de Septiembre 611;h9:30am-

6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5:30pm Sun)is a souvenir super-center. Its got endless rows of all the usual(blankets, jewelry, cheese, pottery, wrestlingmasks), but look long enough and youll findsome quality crafts.

Mexican tourists shop for crafts at thesmaller Mercado Cuauhtmoc(cnr Guerrero & Mariscal;h9am-6pm).

Getting There & Away

AIRThe best option for international arrivals anddepartures is El Paso International Airport (ELP;x915-780-4749)where flights from most majorUS cities cost half of those to Ciudad Jurez.

Ciudad Jurez Aeropuerto InternacionalAbraham Gonzlez (x633-07-34) is just east ofHwy 45, 18km south of the center. Fares toMexico City and Monterrey are available foras low as M$1700 and M$1400 respectively.

You can buy tickets at most hotels.

BUSIn Ciudad Jurez, the Central Camionera(x610-70-83; Tefilo Borunda) is 5km southeastof the center. See opposite for informationon getting there. Destinations with frequent1st-class departures include Chihuahua(M$264, five hours), Mexico Citys TerminalNorte (M$1319, 24 hours) and Nuevo Casas

Grandes (M$161, four hours).Autobuses Americanos(x610-81-75) has busesdirect to US cities (eg Albuquerque, Dallasand Denver) that are priced about the same asGreyhounds walk-up fares from El Paso.

CAR & MOTORCYCLEIf youre driving into the Mexican interior,you must obtain a vehicle permit (see p987).The only place to do so in the Ciudad Jurez

area is at the major customs checkpoint at Km30 on Hwy 45 south.The highway to Chihuahua is in good con-

dition, but it comes with a M$159 toll. Hwy2 to Nuevo Casas Grandes branches west at atraffic circle 20km south of town.

TRAINEl Pasos Amtrak train station(x915-545-2247; 700San Francisco Av, El Paso)serves trains three times a

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week to Los Angeles (US$97, 17 hours) andto New Orleans (US$98, 30 hours). You canalso get to Chicago (US$113, 52 hours) if youchange trains along the way.

Getting AroundLocal buses (M$4.50, 25 minutes) to the Jurez

bus station leave from Guerrero, west of Villa;catch any green-and-white PermisionariosUnidos bus or route 1A or 1B. From the busstation to the town center, step out to thehighway and take any bus labeled Centro.Inside the station, a booth sells tickets forauthorized taxis into town (M$85). Youwont save money by walking outside andflagging one down, and youre unlikely topersuade anyone to take you to the station

for that price.Catch local buses labeled Plaza de lasAmericas to Zona Pronaf along Guerreroor Corona; a taxi from Av Jurez will chargearound M$70 to M$80.

NUEVO CASAS GRANDES & CASASGRANDESx636 / combined pop 54,500 / elevation 1463mNuevo Casas Grandes, a four-hour bus trip

southwest of Ciudad Jurez, is a sleepy, pros-perous country town with wide streets and avibe similar to dusty small towns in the USwest. Its citizenry is a mix of working folk,farming families and Mormon settlers whosepresence dates back to the late 19th century.

Although the town itself holds little ofinterest, the surrounding attractions, par-ticularly the mysterious ruins of Paquim inthe nearby village of Casas Grandes and the

world-famous pottery center of Mata Ortiz,are wonderful enough that this ought to bea busy tourist center. As it is, only a slowtrickle of visitors passes through, mostly onguided tours.

Information

Youll find banks with ATMs and several casasde cambio on Calle 5 de Mayo along bothsides of Constitucin (the street with railwaytracks down the middle). The post office(Calle16 de Septiembre 602)is a short walk southeast andthe small tourist office (x694-00-50; Av Jurez s/n;h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sat) is inconvenientlylocated 10 blocks north of the main plaza.

For internet access and international phonecalls, theres Copias Y Fax(cnr Obregn & Calle 5 de Mayo;

per hr M$20;h8am-9pm).SightsThe ruins of Paquim (x692-41-40; ruins & museumM$43;h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) are what give CasasGrandes (Big Houses) its name. The maze-like, eroding adobe remnants are from whatwas the major trading settlement in northernMexico from around AD 900 until it was in-vaded, perhaps by Apaches, and sacked in

1340. Excavation and restoration began in thelate 1950s, and Unesco declared it a WorldHeritage Site in 1998, although only a smallportion has been unearthed. Large plaques,in Spanish and English, describe the possibleuses of some of the structures and discussPaquim culture; dont miss the clay parrotcages and the distinctive T-shaped door open-ings, both of which are still clearly visible.Video use costs M$30.

CROSSING THE BORDER

From El Paso you can walk across the Stanton StAv Lerdo or Santa Fe StAv Jurez bridges intoMexico (US$0.35), but to return on foot you must use Av Jurez. By car, take Stanton St goingsouth and Av Jurez going north. The vehicle toll is US$2.25.

The easiest way to drive to Jurez is over the toll-free Bridge of the Americas (Cordova Bridge),about 4km east of the Santa Fe StAv Jurez bridge. Tourist cards are available at the Mexicanimmigration offices at the ends of the Av Lerdo and Cordova bridges, but not Av Jurez. Allthree bridges are open 24 hours.

Transborde (US$2;h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) buses shuttle between thecities downtowns every half-hour. In Jurez they stop at the foot of the Av Lerdo bridge andat Av 16 de Septiembre and Villa. In El Paso you they stop by San Jacinto Plaza and alongStanton St. Also, an hourly bus connects the Jurez and El Paso bus stations between 6:30amand 9:30pm for US$6.

A taxi over the border from the El Paso airport costs US$40 to downtown or Zona Pronaf and

US$48 to the bus station.

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The affiliated Museo de las Culturas del Norte,also with bilingual signage, has displays aboutmany cultures from the greater desert regionbut mostly, of course, Paquim. Theres a scalemodel of the site at its prime, an explanation of

how the canal system worked (quite an accom-plishment here in the desert) and discussions ofwhat is known about daily life in the village.

The Paquim were great potters and pro-duced pieces from black clay as well as cream-colored earthenware with striking red, brownor black geometric designs; some amazingoriginal examples are on display in the mu-seum. Copying their style has become a hugebusiness in the area, and you can purchase

pottery at the museum and many storesaround Casas Grandes, as well as Mata Ortiz(opposite), where the revival began.

SleepingAlojamientos Ftima (x661-43-54; alley btwnConstitution & Obregn; r M$100)The citys cheapesthotel, in the blue building just north of Calle 5de Mayo two blocks from the bus station, hasrun-down, noisy, cell-like rooms without fans,

but its safe and fairly clean. And the plants inthe hallway show that the owners care.Suites Victoria Casa Hotel (alley btwn Constitution

& Jurez; r from M$180;a) Although it has alsoseen better days, this little hotel just southof Calle 5 de Mayo gives you much more foryour money than Ftima, including a TV,refrigerator and towel.

Hotel Pin(x694-06-55; www.hotelpinon.com; AvJurez 605; s/d M$335/385, tr & q M$400;pnais)

On Av Jurez as you enter town from thenorth, this ultra-friendly lodge features comfyrooms behind a Paquim-style facade. Theresa restaurant offering hearty breakfasts and anoutdoor pool. Its not the fanciest lodging intown, but its only one small step down fromthe top for about half the price. Theyll showyou a room full of original Paquim pottery(M$20 for non-guests) if you ask.oLas Guacamayas B&B (x692-41-44;

www.mataortizollas.com; s/d incl breakfast M$535/640;pnai)This precious lodge is a stonesthrow from the entrance of the Paquim site.The pink, adobe-style building has 15 charmingrooms (sans TVs, though theres TV and wi-fiin the common area) with tiled floors, a lovelygarden area with a hammock, and a galleryselling top-notch Mata Ortiz pottery. Breakfastis served in the owners kitchen. (Note that theestablishment uses US dollars.)

You can also spend the night at nearbyMata Ortiz (opposite) and Cueva de la Olla(opposite).

Eating & Drinking

Tortas Chuchy (x694-07-09; Constitucin 202; tortasM$20;h8:30am-8pm Mon-Sat) Chuchys classiclunch counter is the perfect place to enjoycheap, filling fare, from tortasto licuados,plusa side of warm chat with Chuchy, the friendlyold-timer who has owned the place for nearlythree decades.

Constantino(x694-10-05; cnr Jurez & Minerva; mainsM$20-110)Located off the corner of the mainplaza, the popular Constantino has served

fresh, tasty meals since 1954. The enchiladasverdescant be beat.Dinnos Pizza(x694-02-04; cnr Minerva & Constitucin;

mains M$25-120;h8am-9pm) In addition to itsgood pizzas and super breakfasts, this popularplace offers strong coffee that men in cowboyhats are always lingering over.

Restaurante Malmedy (x112-72-46; Av Jurez;mains M$80-115;h1-9pm Tue-Sun)The biggest sur-prise in Nuevo Casas Grandes fills an 1896

brick house 3km north of town. The Belgianownerchef cooks French and Mexican meals,plus a few combinations of the two, such asthe beef filet with lime butter.

Chimeneas (x694-06-55; Av Jurez 605) NuevoCasas Grandes cantinas arent as rough andtumble as those in the big city, but theyre stillgenerally sleazy. The Hotel Pins dark andcozy bar is a tranquiloexception. Guitaristsserenade at weekends.

Getting There & AwayNuevo Casas Grandes has no bus station;all long-distance services stop on Obregnat Calle 16 de Septiembre. Theres frequentservice to/from Ciudad Jurez (M$161, fourhours), Chihuahua (M$206, four hours) andTijuana (M$880, 18 hours), plus two a day toMadera ($174, four hours).

If you have a 4WD and a good command of

Spanish, you could try heading to Madera onHwy 11 through the mountains. The route isgorgeous but not well marked, so youll needto stop often to ask ranchers for directionsor reassurance.

Getting AroundNuevo Casas Grandes is compact enough towalk almost everywhere, though a taxi to theoutskirts will cost you only around M$30.

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To reach the ruins, take a Casas Grandesbus (M$6) from Constitucin in the centerof Nuevo Casas Grandes; they make the 7kmrun every 45minutes during the day. Youllbe let off at Casa Grandes picturesque main

plaza; from there signs direct you to the ruins,a 15-minute walk away. Local taxi driverschat and play cards at Calle 5 de Mayo andConstitucin in Nuevo Casas Grandes. Theycharge M$100 to Paquim with a 30-minutewait. For about M$500 you can loop throughPaquim, Mata Ortiz, Hacienda de San Diegoand Colonia Jurez.

AROUND NUEVO CASAS GRANDESSouthwest of Nuevo Casas Grandes are inter-esting little towns, cool forests and a varietyof historic sites. You can combine several intoa good daytrip.

The ancient petroglyphs along the ruggedArroyo de los Monos, 20km to the south, requiresome effort to reach. The road, Hwy 3, isin good shape up to the village of ColoniaMadero, but the final 4km after it calls for4WD (a car mightmake it). Its another 15 to

20 minutes on foot after that.Down Hwy 4 past Paquim is the Mormonvillage of Colonia Jurez, surrounded by appleorchards and with impressive school groundsat its heart, and the Hacienda de San Diego(x636-1036004), a dilapidated 1902 mansiononce owned by the Terrazas family, who con-trolled most of pre-revolutionary Chihuahuastate. Descendants of a servant of the Terrazasstill live there and for a small donation give

quick tours. Theyll also cook breakfast andlunch if you call ahead.

Mata OrtizAt the foot of a short string of mountains27km south of Nuevo Casas Grandes, MataOrtiz, a tiny town with dusty, unpaved streets,loose chickens and unfinished adobe houses,has become a major pottery center. Artistshere use materials, techniques and decorative

styles like (or inspired by) those of the ancientPaquim culture. Their work now attractsshoppers worldwide; the best pieces sell forover US$10,000.

A local potters association has openeda store (h10am-1pm & 3-6pm) in the old traindepot at the entrance to town, but youshould also stroll through the village whereyou can see people working. The clay isshaped without a potters wheel, and the

most historically authentic are painted withbrushes made from childrens hair. Dozensof families have turned their kitchens, liv-ing rooms and bedrooms into showrooms,and you might just purchase a pot sitting on

someones stovetop or stereo. Juan Quezada,credited with reviving the pottery tradition,is the most famous of the villages hundredsof potters. His well-marked workshop is astones throw from the depot.

Accommodation options include thewonderful Casa de Marta (x636-661-71-32; perperson incl 3 meals M$375;n), a home-stay inthe heart of downtown (no street signs)where you really are made to feel like part

of the family. Even the locals will tell youhow good Martas cooking is. US currencyis preferred here. A few other hotels are hid-den around town.

Theres no longer a bus service fromNuevo Casas Grandes. A taxi, including aone-hour wait, will cost you about M$280.

Cueva de la OllaTucked away in the mountains west of

Mata Ortiz is this unique ruin, named forits shape: a giant pot. Though beautifullypreserved, little is known about this place,save that it was clearly connected to thePaquim culture, as illustrated by the char-acteristic T-shaped doors. About 30 or 40people probably once lived here, farming thefertile valley and storing their grain beneaththese cliffside overhangs.

Getting here is half the fun. Its a beauti-

ful, though challenging, drive that requiresa high-clearance vehicle and rewards withwonderful views of the desert, valley, moun-tain forests and wildlife. It takes about 2hours each way from Nuevo Casas Grandes.Diana Acosta (x636-1036004), an enthusias-tic college grad who lives at Hacienda deSan Diego (see left), has started leadingtours here and can also arrange overnightaccommodations in some cabins near the

cave (US$35 per person including breakfastand dinner).

MADERAx652 / pop 22,000 / elevation 2092mThe drive to Madera leaves the desert behind,twisting alternately through thick forests onthe mountains and fertile plains betweenthe hills. People come to the town for whatsaround it. The area is lush with mighty pine

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who appreciates a good made-for-Hollywoodstory of crime, stakeouts and riches.

After his assassination in 1923, 25 of Villaswives filed claims for his estate. Governmentinvestigations determined that Luz Corral de

Villa was the generalissimos legal spouse;the mansion was awarded to her and be-came known as Quinta Luz. She opened themuseum and the army acquired it after herdeath in 1981. Youll see many of Villas per-sonal effects plus weapons from his era, buteveryones favorite stop is the back courtyardwhere the bullet-riddled black Dodge thatVilla was driving when he was murdered ison morbid display.

Its a pleasant walk from the center, or takeany bus headed down Ocampo.

PLAZA DE ARMASChihuahuas historic heart, with its mass ofpigeons, shoe-shine boys and cowboy-hattedmen sitting around the ornate iron bandstand(made in Belgium), is a simple but prettyplace. Its majestic cathedral (h10am-2pm & 4-6pm), built between 1725 and 1826, presides

over the bustle. Behind its marvelous baroquefacade is an altar of Italian marble and theoriginal organ installed in 1796.

On the southeast side is the entrance tothe small Museo de Arte Sacro (admission M$15;h9am-2pm Mon-Fri), which displays dozens ofreligious paintings from the big names of the18th century, including Miguel Cabrera, plusa chair used by Pope John Paul II during his1990 visit.

CASA CHIHUAHUAChihuahuas former Palacio Federal is nowa cultural center (x429-33-00; Libertad 901; adultM$40, child & student M$20, Thu free;h10am-5pm)withseveral historical galleries and events everyThursday night. The most famous gallery isthe Calabazo de Hidalgo, where Miguel Hidalgowas held prior to his execution. Then partof a Jesuit convent, the dungeon was incor-

porated first into the new Mint and later thepresent structure after each building wasrazed. The creepy quarters contain replicasof Hidalgos crucifix and other personal ef-fects, while outside a plaque recalls the versesthe revolutionary priest wrote in charcoal onhis cell wall in his final hours thanking hiscaptors for their kindness. Upstairs are severalrooms full of high-tech displays, from videosof Rarmuri dance to reproductions of an-

cient rock art, about the state of Chihuahuathat might inspire you to prolong your traveltime in the state.

The sound-and-light show from 7pmto 9:30pm Tuesday to Sunday behind the

building at the Fuentes Danzarinas (DancingFountains) attracts many wide-eyed kids.

PALACIO DE GOBIERNOThe handsome, 19th-century palace (x429-35-96; cnr Aldama & Guerrero; admission free;h8am-8pm)features fantastic murals by Aaron Pia Morashowing the history of Chihuahua (grab thelittle guide explaining each of the paintingsfrom the tourist office) surrounding the clas-

sic courtyard. On one side of the courtyard isa small room with a flickering eternal flamemarking the place where Father Hidalgo (seeboxed text, p629) was shot.

In back is a pair of small but good muse-ums. The Museo de Hidalgo(admission free;h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) honors its namesake, while theGalera de Armas(admission free;h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)has a variety of guns and swords from theIndependence era.

PLAZA MAYORFronting the Palacio de Gobierno, this largesquare has many monuments including thengel de la Libertadstatue representing the free-dom of the Mexican people. A laser shoots outof its sword during special events.

The Templo de San Francisco (h7:30am-1pm &4:30-8pm), a simple white church at the foot ofthe square, is the citys oldest. Construction

began in 1715. Hidalgos decapitated bodywas interred here before being sent to MexicoCity in 1827. Another eternal flame marksthe spot.

ART MUSEUMSManuel Gameros started building the bold,art nouveau Quinta Gameros (x416-66-84; PaseoBolvar 401; adult/child & student M$20/10;h11am-2pm& 4-7pm Tue-Sun) in 1907 as a wedding present

for his fiance. By the time it was finished,four years later, she had died, the Revolutionhad begun and the Gameros family had fledMexico. Pancho Villa would later use it asoffices. As if this story wasnt good enough,some tour guides tell that Gameros fiance fellfor the architect, Julio Corredor of Colombia,and married him instead. Staff insist theresno truth to this tale. Today the house is gor-geously restored and filled with a mix of period

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INFORMATION

Trolley Turstico......................... C2Buses to Train Station................. C2Buses to Santa Eulalia................. B3Buses to Bus Station................... C2

Mercado de Artesanas............... C2 Chihuahua............................. C1Casa de las Artesanas del Estado de

Caf Calicanto............................ B3

Nutry Vida.................................. B3Mi Caf...................................... B3La Casa de los Milagros.............. B3Il Punto 611............................... C2Antojitos Pam-Pam.................... D2

Posada Tierra Blanca................... B2Palacio del Sol............................ B2Motel Mara Dolores.................. C1Hotel Santa Regina.................... C2Hotel San Juan .......................... B3Hotel Jardn Del Centro.............. B3Hotel El Campanario................... B3

Casa de Huspedes.................... B3Casa de Chihuahua.................... D5

Templo de San Francisco............ C1Quinta Gameros........................ C3Palacio de Gobierno................... C2Museo Tarik............................. D4Museo Semilla........................... A2 Mexicana............................... D4Museo Histrico de la RevolucinMuseo del Mamuth................... D1Museo de la Lealtad Republicana.. C2Museo de Hidalgo...................(see 14)

Museo de Arte Sacro.................(see 7)Galera de Armas.....................(see 14)Fuentes Danzarinas...................... C1Cathedral..................................... B2Casa Siglo XIX.............................. B2Casa Chihuahua........................... C2Calabazo de Hidalgo..................(see 5)

State Tourist Office..................(see 14)Rojo y Casavantes........................ D2Post Office................................... D1Ibance.......................................... C2Clinica del Centro......................... B3

CHIHUAHUA 0.3 miles500 m00

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furnishings and art from the Universidad deChihuahuas permanent collection.

Filling a former railroad roundhouse, CasaRedonda (x414-90-61; Escoderoat Coln; admission M$15;h10am-8pm Tue-Sun, closes 6pm Dec-Jan) now hosts

the local museum of contemporary arts, whichbrings in art from around Mexico (there wasa Diego Rivera retrospective last time we vis-ited), and also a few train relics.

The less ambitious Casa Siglo XIX(x439-80-80;cnr Calle 6 & Jurez; admission free;h9am-2pm & 4-7pm), arestored colonial gem of a building, has tem-porary galleries in the front and small-scalemodels of the massive metal sculptures by re-nowned Chihuahuan artist Sebastin, whose

work rises in cities around the world, in back.You can see several of the real things aroundtown, including one at the top of Parque elPalomar in the citys northwest.

MUSEO DE LA LEALTAD REPUBLICANACasa de Jurez, the home and office of BenitoJurez during the period of French occupa-tion, now houses this museum (x410-42-58;Jurez 321; adult/child & student M$10/5;h9am-6pm

Tue-Sun). It maintains an 1860s feel and exhib-its documents signed by the great reformeras well as a replicas of his furniture andhorse-drawn carriage.

MUSEO TARIKThis seldom-visited museum (x410-28-70; Calle4 No 2610; adult M$10, child & student M$5;h9am-6pmMon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) near Quinta Luzcovers the history of the city. The old pho-

tos are generally more interesting than theexhibits (labeled in Spanish only), but therolling toilet used by miners is alone worththe trip.

SCIENCE MUSEUMSChihuahua has two science museums thatkids will enjoy, even though both have onlySpanish signage. The Museo del Mamuth(x415-73-78; Jurez 2506; adult M$15, child & student M$10;h9am-

5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun)is a so-so natural historymuseum with lots of rocks and fossils on dis-play, including an 18,000-year-old mammothand a giant grey whale skeleton. Museo Semilla(x412-39-12; www.museosemilla.com.mx; cnr Calle 10 &Teofilo Burunda; adult/child M$40/35;h9am-5pm Tue-Fri,noon-7pm Sat & Sun)is an excellent hands-on sci-ence center thats often full of school groups.

LAS GRUTAS DE NOMBRE DE DIOS

This cool cave (x400-70-59; adult/child M$40/20;h9am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) on the northside of town has some impressive stalagmites,stalactites and other rock formations, makingthe one-hour, 17-room underground jour-ney fun, especially for kids. To get there takeeither a taxi (M$70) or a Nombre de DiosOjo bus (M$4.50) from the corner of Calle 4and Nios Hroes. Ask the driver to tell youwhen to get off.

SANTA EULALIA & SANTO DOMINGOThough its just on the outskirts of Chihuahua,the historic hillside mining village of SantaEulalia feels worlds away. The areas first silverwas dug out of these mountains in the 17thcentury, and the mines are still going strong.The library (the new orange building) hasa little mining museum (Av Zaragoza; admission free;h9am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Fri)but its more interest-

ing to look around Chinos Rock Shop(Av Jurez)just downhill from the church.Santo Domingo, 3km uphill from Santa

Eulalia, is an interestingly ugly town full of

DETOUR: CUEVA DE LOS CRISTALES

Deep under the mountains around the town of Naica, 130km southeast of Chihuahua, Cueva delos Cristales (Crystal Cave) is one of the most incredible, surreal places on earth. Discovered inApril 2000 during routine excavations in the Naica-Peoles silver, zinc and lead mine, the 30m-

long cavity is a tangle of translucent beams of selenite (a form of gypsum), some stretching upto 14m long and 3m in diameter among the largest crystals ever found.

If you want to see it for yourself, plan ahead. Industrias Peoles has added lighting and leadsfree tours, but only on Saturdays. Last time we checked the waiting list was three months youcan ask about cancellations but dont count on it.

Not everyone will be up for the visit, since the combination of 50C temperatures and completesaturation in the cave emanating from magma down below can prove fatal after less than 10minutes. Visitors must be at least 15 years old and have no heart conditions. For reservation orinformation, callx621-476-00-56 or ask at the tourist office in Chihuahua (p368).

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C E N T R A L N O R T H M E X I C O C h i h u a h u a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

old mining buildings. Seor Oaxaca, whosefather was a miner, leads five-hour mine tours(x415-52-60, cell phone 614-1967689; 2 people M$150)and has a big museum at his Bar-RestauranteOaxaca. He provides hard hats and lanterns.

The tourist office in Chihuahua (p368) canmake arrangements.To get to either town, catch a Francisco

Portillo bus (M$9, 45 min) across fromHotel El Campanario on Daz Ordazin Chihuahua.

ToursConexin a la Avntura (x413-79-29; www.conexionalaaventura.com; Miguel Schultz 3701, Colonia Granjas;

h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)offers numer-ous outdoor trips all over the region, includ-ing rock climbing and rappelling in ParqueNacional Cumbres de Majalco (M$1120 perperson, one day), kayaking the Ro Conchos(M$2990 per person, two days) and sand-boarding at Samalayuca Dunes (M$1380 perperson, one day). A nine-day Copper Canyontrip with four days of burro trekking costsUS$1135 per person with four people.

Chihuahuas historic-looking Trolley Tursticooffers a 45-minute narrated (in Spanish) peekat Chihuahuas main historic sights. It de-parts from Plaza Hidalgo every hour from9am to noon and 3pm to 7pm, Tuesday toSunday; buy tickets (adult/child M$30/15) atthe tourist office.

SleepingChihuahuas cheapest places may be rougher

than youre used to. It pays to look at therooms before deciding. Most of the lodgingwest of Jurez and south of Montes is of theby-the-hour variety. All of the midrange andtop-end hotels have wi-fi.

BUDGETCasa de Huspedes (x410-53-61; Libertad 1209; s/dM$80/100) The rooms at this unnamed place(Casa de Huspedes simply means guest-

house) are pretty old, but the flower-filledcourtyard and no-nonsense dueamore thancompensate. If youre an early-to-bed kind ofperson and dont need a TV, this is a steal.

Hotel San Juan (x410-00-35; Victoria 823; s/d/tr/q M$135/145/175/185;ai) This was clearly aprimo address back in the day. The decay addscharm to the tile- and arch-filled courtyard,while the rooms are just plain tired. Theyare, however, good for the price. The bar is

very loud, but you cant hear the music in theback rooms. There is 24-hour internet access(M$10 per hour).

Casa de Chihuahua (x410-08-43; www.casadechihuahua.com; Mendez 2203; dm/d M$140/260;ani)

This new, well-run hostel facing the train sta-tion is a budding backpacker base, though avery tranquil one. Its for people who like tosleep, as the MexicanFrench couple whoown it say, and no alcohol is allowed on thegrounds. Features include a large commonarea with movies, a gym, a book exchangeand free wi-fi throughout. Gay couples arerequested not to show public affection.oHotel Jardn del Centro (x415-18-32;

Victoria 818; r from M$230;pna)Cozy and mod-ern rooms around a plant- and bird-filledcourtyard make this one of the best bargainsin the city.

Motel Mara Dolores (x410-47-70; [email protected]; Calle 9 No 304; s/d/tr/q M$277/299/377/398;

pai)Just down from Plaza Mayor, thisimpeccably run motels basic but modernrooms are a very good deal. Theyve evengot wi-fi.

MIDRANGEHotel Santa Regina (x415-38-89; www.hotelessantaregina.com; Calle 3 No 102; r M$310-520;pai)Smalldecorative touches cover up the slightly insti-tutional feel of this older but shipshape hotel.The cheapest rooms are a tad dour, but therest are pretty snazzy. A favorite of Mexicanbusiness travelers, its run like clockwork andhas a great downtown location.

Hotel El Campanario(x415-45-45; Daz Ordaz s/n;s/d M$490/520;ai)Your standard type of spot lacks style but its a fine choice with largecomfortable rooms and a nice lobby.

Posada Tierra Blanca (x415-00-00; www.posadatierrablanca.com.mx; Nios Hroes 102; s & d M$690, tr/qM$725/760; pnaisc) Despite thedowntown bustle, this large motor lodgestyle place with lots of flowers and trees onthe grounds makes for a relaxing stay. The

rooms are ready for a remodel, but theyrelarge and comfortable. Check out the mural ofworld cultures in the back, even if you arentstaying here.

TOP ENDPalacio del Sol (x412-34-56; www.hotelpalaciodelsol.com; Independencia 116; r from M$1200;pnai)This white cement high-rise looms over thelow-level city. The rooms are positively luxu-

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rious, and the doting service is welcome aftera long, hot day. Theres a small gym and abusiness center, and the bar has live musicin the evenings.

EatingAntojitos Pam-Pam (x410-51-47; Carranza 1204; mainsM$15-83;h8am-10pm Mon-Sat)Nothing fancy, justgreat home-style cooking, which makes it afavorite with downtown workers at lunch-time. The chile rellenoburritos are deliciousand filling.

Nutry Vida(x410-96-64; Victoria 420; mains M$19-30;h8:30am-8:30pm;nv)For vegetarians grow-ing tired of cheese, this little natural-foods

caf and bakery is a welcome stop. Youll findsalads, yogurts, veggie burgers (which arentvery good, frankly), fresh-squeezed juices anda variety of whole-wheat baked goods. Eat inor take out.

Il Punto 611 (Independencia 611; cappuccino M$20;h8am-9pm)The coffees and teas here are verygood, and the baked goods are even better.

Mi Caf (x410-12-38; Victoria 1000; mains M$25-120;i)This American-style greasy-spoon diner

caters both to travelers and local cowboys,serving up excellent breakfasts and coffee atbig, comfy booths. Chilaquiles montados conhuevos (corn tortillas with chili and eggs)is great way to start the morning or kick ahangover. Internet access (till 10:30pm) costsM$15 per hour.oLa Casa de los Milagros (x437-06-

93; Victoria 812; mains M$40-98;h5pm-late) Whowouldnt love this place? Legend has it that

Pancho Villa and his pals did, and you prob-ably will too. Housed in a beautiful 110-year-old mansion featuring high ceilings, tiledfloors and an open-roof courtyard, the food,cocktails list and colonial ambience at thisstylish caf all merge into a fantastic evening.The light-fare menu features a great selectionof coffee drinks, fresh salads and antojitos likequesadillasfilled with huitlacocheplus thereare some steaks for heartier appetites. Theres

live music, usually trova,on weekends.Drinking & EntertainmentThe dive bar edging the front courtyard ofthe Hotel San Juan (opposite), open noon till2am, attracts many Chihuahua hipsters. Ithas loud rock and metal on the jukebox yetmaintains a mellow vibe, and there are usu-ally as many women as men pounding backwhiskey and beer.

oCaf Calicanto(x410-44-52; Aldama 411;h4pm-late)Enjoy live jazz and trova,lusciouscocktails, big sandwiches, light snacks and avery diverse crowd on the tree-lined patio ofthis intimate caf.

Cervecera(cnr Jurez & Pacheco;h11am-midnight)While other Zona Dorada nightspots try tooutdo themselves with flash and style, thisdrive-in, park-like spot guarantees its successwith one simple hook: cheap beer. One liter isjust 28 pesos. Norteoand country bands kickoff around 9pm and the earthy crowd makesfor great people-watching.

Cubo Bar Alive (x410-68-65; Jurez 3114; coverM$50;h10pm-2am Fri & Sat)Despite the compe-

tition elsewhere in the Zona Dorada, CuboBat Alive has been the spot to shake yourthing for years. Live music gets the crowdcrazy: not a chair, table or pole remainsun-danced on.

ShoppingCowboy-boot shoppers should make a beelineto Libertad between Independenca and DazOrdaz, where stores jammed with a flashy

selection of reasonably priced rawhide, ostrichand lizard boots line the avenue.Casa de las Artesanas del Estado de Chihuahua

(x410-60-73; Nios Hroes 1101;h9am-7pm Mon-Fri,10am-5pm Sat)This state-run store has a goodselection of chihuahuense crafts (includ-ing Mata Ortiz pottery) and food (pecans,sotol,Mennonite cheese), though prices canbe high.

Mercado de Artesanas (Aldama 511;h9am-8pm

Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun)So overflowing with tackycrap (leather-clad shot glasses, Pancho Villakey chains, Jesus figurines in tequila bottles)youve just got to visit.

Getting There & AwayAIRChihuahuas General Fierro Villalobos Airport(x446-82-33) has daily flights to Mexico Cityand major cities in northern Mexico (from

around M$1750), as well as Los Angeles,Phoenix, Houston and Dallas in the US.

BUSAutobuses Americanos (x800-500-0707) serv-ices depart daily for Phoenix, Los Angeles,Albuquerque and Denver. Chihuahuas busstation(x420-22-86; Av Juan Pablo II), about 10kmeast from the center of town, is a major centerfor buses in every direction:

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Destination Fare Duration Frequency

Ciudad Jurez M$264 5hr every 15min Creel M$190 5hr hourly Cuauhtmoc M$64 1hr every 30min Durango M$421 9hr frequent

Hidalgo del Parral M$109 3hr hourly Madera M$190 5hr hourly Mexico City M$1052 18hr frequent (Terminal Norte) Monterrey deluxe 11hr 2 daily M$675 1st class 11hr 12 daily M$546 Nuevo Casas Grandes M$206 4hr 11 daily Zacatecas M$596 13hr frequent

CAR & MOTORCYCLEThe easiest way in and out of Chihuahua to/from the south is along the canal (Av TeofiloBorunda), which has less traffic than Jurezor Aldama. Av Perifrico Lombardo Toledanothen gets you out to the freeway. Heading outof town to the west, take Cuauhtmoc to Zarco,where you pass many colonial mansions.

TRAIN

Chihuahua is the northeastern terminus of theBarranca del Cobre trains. Tickets are sold atthe station(x439-72-12; Mendez s/n;hticket window5-7am & 10am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 5-7am & 9am-12:30pm Sat,5-7am Sun). For more information see p341.

Getting AroundThe bus station is a half-hour east of town alongAv Pacheco. To get there, catch a Circunvalacin2 Sur or Aeropuerto (which does not go to theairport no public bus does) bus (M$4.50) onCarranza across the street from Plaza Hidalgo.From the bus stop in front of the station, theAeropuerto bus goes back to the center.

For the train station, take any bus headeddown Ocampo or a Cerro de la Cruz buson Carranza by Plaza Hidalgo and get off atIglesia Sagrado Corazn. Its a short walk pastthe medieval-looking prison. Heading towardthe center, catch a Circunvalacin 2 Sur bus

north on 20 de Noviembre to Plaza Hidalgo.Taxis charge standard rates from the center

to the train station (M$35), bus station (M$60)and airport (M$100). Expect to pay more goingfrom the train station.

CUAUHTMOCx625 / pop 99,000 / elevation 2010mWest of Chihuahua, prosperous Cuauhtmocis the main center for Mexicos Mennonites

(see boxed text, opposite). The town itselfbustles so much that it feels much bigger thanit really is; however, once you start searchingfor things to see and do, its real size quickly re-

veals itself. Still, some good restaurants make a

stopover pleasant, as do the shady town squareand a small but stately cathedral.There are many banks (with ATMs) and casas

de cambio around the plaza, and the Mdulode Informacin Turistica (x581-34-88; Calle Morelos;h9am-1pm & 3-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) is in theplaza. To get online, try IQ Computacin(Av Allende373; per hr M$10;h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat).

SightsThe large Museo y Centro Cultural Menonita(x586-18-95; Hwy 5 Km 10; adult/child M$25/15;h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)holds hundreds of household goods andfarm tools. Its remarkable how similar thingsare to what youll find in small-town historicalmuseums in the American Midwest. A varietyof crafts, cheeses and fruit preserves are soldhere. A taxi from downtown will cost youabout M$200 with waiting time.

The new Centro Cultural San Antonio (x590-

4871; cnr Calle 5 & Jurez; admission free;h9am-3pm &5-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat & Sun) on theother side of the tracks hosts changing artexhibits. So does the Centro Cultural Cuauhtmoc(admission free;h3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9-11am Sat), locatedin the hilltop Parque Mirador.

Sleeping & EatingHotel San Francisco (x582-31-52; Calle 3 No 132; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast from M$170/180/250/260;p)Despite

what youd expect at these prices, the modernrooms at this serious bargain, one block offthe plaza, sparkle.

Motel Tarahumara Inn (x581-19-19; www.tarahumarainn.com; Av Allende 373; d/tr M$710/760;pai)Rooms are a little more ordinary than youdexpect from seeing whats outside, but stillplenty comfy. There are a restaurant, bar andsmall gym on the premises.

St Cruz Cafe (x582-10-61; Hidalgo 1137; mains

M$25-72;h8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 4pm-midnight Sun)As upscale as Cuauhtmoc gets, this placehas enchiladas and crepes with cappuccino,vodka tonics or white zinfandel. Theres livemusic Thursdays to Saturdays from 9pm. Aless artsy branch (open 4pm till midnight) isin the Parque Mirador.

Rancho Viejo (x582-43-60; Av Guerrero 333; mainsM$44-165)Good ol Mexican food: choose fromshrimp, beef and other traditional options at

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this homey log cabin. Apple pie finishes offthe meal with style.

Getting There & AwayFrequent buses go to Chihuahua (M$64,

1 hours) and Creel (M$124, 3 hours).Theres no terminal; buses stop at individualcompany offices. Estrella Blanca (x582-10-18;cnr Calle 9 & Allende)is the largest, and all othersare nearby.

The train station (see p341 for travel de-tails) can be reached from the end of Calle 3,but the bus is faster and more convenient.

From the towns west end, the CorredorComercial lvaro Obregn (Hwy 5) runs

north through the principal Mennonite zone,with entrances to the numbered campos(vil-lages) along the way.

HIDALGO DEL PARRALx627 / pop 101,000 / elevation 1652mParral is a pleasantly mellow little town (itscourteous drivers even come to complete halts

for pedestrians!) with some good museumsand unique churches. Its biggest claim to fameis that its the town where Pancho Villa (seeboxed text, p376) was murdered on July 20,1923, and buried with 30,000 attending his

funeral. Soon after his burial, his corpse wasbeheaded by unknown raiders, and in 1976his body was moved to Mexico City.

Founded as a mining settlement in 1631,the town took the Hidalgo tag later but isstill commonly called just Parral. Throughoutthe 17th century, enslaved indigenous peo-ple mined the rich veins of silver, copper,quartz, lead and other valuable minerals fromLa Prieta mine, the installations of which still

loom above town.

OrientationParral doesnt follow the standard grid-plan,which makes wandering the streets confusingbut fun. Two main squares, Plaza Principal(home of the Templo de San Jos) and PlazaGuillermo Baca (fronting the cathedral) are

THE MENNONITESIn Cuauhtmoc, Nuevo Casas Grandes and Chihuahua, youll likely do a double take when youfirst encounter Mennonite men in baggy overalls and women in American Gothic dresses andblack bonnets speaking a dialect of low German to blonde children.

The Mennonite sect, founded by the Dutchman Menno Simons in the 16th century, maintainsa code of beliefs that puts it at odds with many governments, particularly an extreme pacifismand refusal to swear oaths of loyalty other than to God. And so, severely persecuted for theirbeliefs in Europe, many sect members moved to North America, including post-revolutionaryMexico, where thousands settled in the 1920s.

Even today, most Mexican Mennonites lead an isolated existence, speaking little, if any, Spanish,

and marrying only among themselves. Unlike the Amish, with whom they are often confused,Mennonites embrace technology, and several factories produce stoves, farm equipment and othergoods, while Mennonite cheese and cream are sold across Chihuahua state and beyond.

Mennonite villages are called camposand are numbered instead of named. The greatest number(around 150) are clustered around Cuauhtmoc. It feels more like Iowa than Mexico here, withvast cornfields and suburban-type homes.

Most Mennonites remain firmly uninterested in pandering to shutter-clicking tourists. Dontexpect cheerful conversations with gregarious Mennonites; most look at outsiders with disinterestor even disdain. But you can tour the campos.

Friendly John Friessen (x625-5821322; [email protected]), in Cuauhtmoc, has a wealth of

information about the local area and is the only person who can arrange a tour in Spanish, Englishor German. The visits are personalized (so are the prices, but expect a half-day trip for two withJohn driving to cost around M$500) but usually include a visit to a mission church, a small farm,a cheese factory and a restaurant for a meal of Mennonite sausages and baked goods. Friessensconnections to the Mennonites go back generations; his grandfather was excommunicated fromthe church for choosing to let his children get a different education.

If John is booked out, Cuauhtmocs Mdelo de Informacin Turistica (opposite) or MotelTarahumara Inn (opposite) can get you a guide. There are never tours on Sundays, and Saturdaytours miss out on some things as not all businesses will be open or in full production.

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roughly in a line along the north side of theriver, linked by busy Av Mercaderes (alsocalled Herrera). Both of these churches, likemost in Parral, are decorated with stone inhonor of the citys mining heritage. The busstation at the east end of town is connected to

the town center by Av Independencia.InformationThe Cmara de Comercio (x522-00-18; Colegio 28;h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) functions asa tourist office, distributing maps and bro-chures. For financial needs, there are banksand casas de cambioaround Plaza Principal,including HSBC, which stays open late. TrySMAC-Line (Av Mercaderes; per hr M$10;h9am-2pm &

4-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-7:30pm Sat), west of PlazaBaca, for internet access.

SightsBuilt by a wealthy silver tycoon a block offPlaza Baca, the beautifully restored PalacioAlvarado (x522-02-90; Riva Palacio s/n; adult/childM$20/5;h10am-5pm) has pressed aluminumceilings and other artistic flair, plus plentyof original furnishings. Lady Alvarado died

shortly before the house was completed. Herfuneral wagon, later used for Pancho Villa,is on display.

The building from which Pancho Villa wasshot and killed in 1923, just across the river onthe west end of town, now houses the Museo

Francisco Villa (x525-32-92; cnr Jurez & Barreda; ad-mission M$10;h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), with a smallcollection of photos, guns and memorabilia.Displays are in Spanish only. The best thingto do here is to listen to the often dubiousstories the staff tell. The tale about Villas bodybeing switched with a decoy after the decapi-tation, and thus not actually being moved toMexico City, however, may have some cred-ibility. People still lay flowers at his tomb in

Parrals cemetery.Mina La Prieta (x525-44-00; adult/child M$25/15;h11am-4:30pm Tue-Sun)was opened in 1629 andclosed in 1975, but today you can drop down100m (youll be at the same level as the city) inan original elevator and walk through a tunnelcut by hand around 1820. Except for scatteredhistorical displays, which show the difficultand dangerous mining methods used through-out history, the pit still feels like its being

PANCHO VILLA: BANDIT-TURNED-REVOLUTIONARY

Best known as a hero of the Revolution, Francisco Pancho Villas adulthood was more given to rob-bing and womanizing than any noble cause, and even his admirers cant deny that for most of hisdays, he was simply a bad man. Though his life is obscured by contradictory claims, half-truths and

outright lies, one thing is certain: Villa detested alcohol. In his Memorias, Villa gleefully recalled howhe stole a magnificent horse from a man who was preoccupied with getting drunk in a cantina.

After his outlaw years, Pancho Villa had bought a house in Chihuahua. That spring, Chihuahuasrevolutionary governor Abraham Gonzlez began recruiting men to break dictator Porfirio Dazgrip on Mexico, and among the people he lobbied was Villa. Gonzlez knew about Villas past,but he also knew that he needed men like Villa natural leaders who knew how to fight ifhe ever hoped to depose Daz. Thus, Gonzlez encouraged Villa to return to marauding, butthis time for a noble cause: agrarian reform. The idea appealed to Villa, and he soon joined theRevolution, leading the famous Divisin del Norte.

When rebels under Villas leadership took Ciudad Jurez in May 1911, Daz resigned. Francisco

Madero, a wealthy liberal from the state of Coahuila, was elected president in November 1911.But Madero was unable to contain the various factions fighting for control throughout the

country, and in early 1913 he was toppled from power by one of his own commanders, GeneralVictoriano Huerta, and executed. Pancho Villa fled across the US border to El Paso, but within acouple of months he was back in Mexico, one of four revolutionary leaders opposed to Huerta.Villa quickly raised an army of thousands, and by the end of 1913 he had taken Ciudad Jurez(again) and Chihuahua with the help of US-supplied guns. His victory at Zacatecas the follow-ing year is reckoned to be one of his most brilliant. Huerta was finally defeated and forced toresign in July 1914. With his defeat, the four revolutionary forces split into two camps: the liberalVenustiano Carranza and lvaro Obregn on one side and the more radical Villa and Emiliano

Zapata on the other, though the latter pair never formed a serious alliance. Villa was routed byObregn in the Battle of Celaya (1915) and never recovered his influence.

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worked. At the top, some of the old buildingsnow contain a mining museum (M$10). A taxiup the hill should cost about M$25.

The 1953 Santuario de Ftima(Calle Jess Garca),located on a hill just below La Prieta, wasbuilt from chunks of rock taken out of the

mine, and bits of gold, silver, zinc and cop-per ore sparkle in the thick walls. Rather thanpews, the congregation sits on short, pillar-like stools that represent the boundary stonesthat mark mining lands. The church is usuallyclosed, but if you want to see inside, knock atthe grey house on its west side and someonewill unlock it for you.

Templo de San Juan de Dios, facing the ca-thedral across Plaza Baca, has a little Museo de

Arte Sacro(Sacred Art Museum;x522-15-22; Mercaderess/n; adult/child M$5/2;h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat)with various objects, some made in Parralusing Prieta silver.

FestivalsFor one debauched week leading up to theanniversary of the death of Pancho Villa (July20), the city, plus thousands of bikers whoshow up for the festival, celebrates Las Jornadas

Villistas. Hundreds of horseback riders makea six-day journey from the north, recallingVillas famous marathons, and the gun-blazingassassination is re-enacted on the 19th and20th. Hotels are booked far in advance.

Sleeping & EatingHotel Chihuahua (x522-15-13; Coln No 1; r fromM$150) This simple but spic-and-span hotelsits between Ftima church and Plaza Baca.oHotel Acosta (x522-02-21; Barbachano

3; s/d/tr/q M$235/295/365/455;i) From the an-cient switchboard in the lobby to the originalfurniture in the rooms, the extremely friendlyAcosta is a 1950s time warp. Its just off PlazaPrincipal and has great views from the roof.

Nueva Vizcaya (x525-56-36; Flores Magon 17; s/dM$350/450;pai) This brand-new hotelnorth of the river is far from the most ex-pensive in town, but theres none better. Allrooms have kitchens and wi-fi, making this aheckuva bargain.

Restaurant La Fuente (x522-30-88; cnr 20 deNoviembre & Colegio; mains M$20-90)Happy yellowwalls and big windows add to the warm ambi-ence at this local favorite, where youll find a

Villa had expected the US to support his bid to become Mexicos next president, but whenUS President Wilson recognized Carranzas government, Villa decided to simultaneously discreditCarranza and seek revenge on Wilson by ordering his remaining men to attack Americans. This,

he believed, would prompt Wilson to send troops into Mexico. In the early morning hours ofMarch 9, 1916 Villas men (Villa himself stayed safely several miles behind) sacked Columbus, NewMexico, home to both a US Cavalry garrison and Sam Ravel, who had once cheated Villa on anarms deal. Though around half of Villas 500 militiamen died that day (there were 18 Americandeaths) and Ravel wasnt found (he was at the dentist in El Paso), the attack ended up a successfor Villa because it did draw the US Army into Mexico in pursuit of the revolutionary. It alsofurther boosted his legend because they never caught him.

In July 1920, after a decade of revolutionary fighting, Villa signed a peace treaty with Adolfode la Huerta, the man who had been chosen as the provisional president two months earlier.Villa pledged to lay down his arms and retire to an hacienda in Canutillo ( p378), 75km south

of Hidalgo del Parral, for which the Huerta government paid M$636,000. In addition, Villa wasgiven M$35,926 to cover the wages owed to his troops. He also received money to buy farmingtools, pay a security detail of 50 of his former soldiers, and help the widows and orphans of theDivisin del Norte.

For the next three years, Villa led a relatively quiet life. He bought a hotel in Parral and regularlyattended cockfights. He installed one of his many wives, Soledad Seaez, in a Parral apartment,and kept another at Canutillo. Then, one day while he was leaving Parral in his big Dodge touringcar, a volley of shots rang out. Five of the seven passengers in the car were killed, including thelegendary revolutionary. An eight-man assassin team fired the fatal shots, but just who orderedthe killings remains a mystery. The light prison sentences the killers received leads many to the

conclusion that the command came from President Obregn, though with all the enemies Villamade over the years, there are many suspects.

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good range of dishes including steak, chicken,enchiladas and a fine garlic soup.

Kaleos Caf (x523-68-18; Plazuela Independencia8; mains M$22-48;h4:30-10pm Tue-Sun)Young andartsy describes both the space and the patrons

at this great little place just across the bridgefrom Plaza Principal. Its got real coffee, goodsandwiches and free wi-fi.

For a sweet treat, stop by any dulceraforsome La Gota de Miel candy, made (usuallywithouthoney) in Parral since 1932.

Getting There & AroundThe bus station, on the southeast outskirts oftown, is most easily reached by taxi (M$25

to M$30); its about 2.5km from the center.Frequent buses run to Chihuahua (M$109,three hours), Torren (M$212, 4 hours) andDurango (M$257, six hours).

Hwy 45 to Durango is a long, lonely road.Keep a full tank of gas, and dont drive itat night.

AROUND HIDALGO DEL PARRALEast of Parral, the village of Valle de Allendeis

lush with trees and offers a lovely look at asimpler life. Much of its early wealth camefrom walnut orchards. Transportes Ballezanoshas hourly 2nd-class buses (M$15, 30 minutes)from Av Flores Magn near 20 de Noviembrenorth of the river.

The dusty village of Canutillo, 75km southof Parral and just over the Durango stateborder, is where Pancho Villa, a Durangonative, spent the last three years of his life. His

decaying hacienda, given by the governmentin exchange for his promise never to takeup arms again, is now a museum(admission free;h9am-5pm Tue-Sun). It houses a collection ofphotos, guns and various personal artifactsand is attached to a 200-year-old church.Any Durango-bound bus from Parral candrop you in Villa Las Nieves (M$50, 75 min-utes), from which its a 6km taxi ride (M$50round-trip).

TORRENx871 / pop 549,000 / elevation 1150m

Torren lies midway between Chihuahua andZacatecas, in the east of Durango state, andthats the best reason to stop here. That, andto use it as a base to visit Mina Ojuela (p380).Despite an attractive Plaza de Armas withseveral fountains, lots of trees and frequentgoings-on, overall this is one ugly city. To

be fair, several of its museums are excellentand the people are as pleasant as elsewherein the north.

The 1911 battle for Torren was PanchoVillas Divisin del Nortes first big victory

in the Mexican Revolution, giving him con-trol of the railways that radiate from the city.Villa personally led three later battles forTorren over the next few years. During one,his troops, in their revolutionary zeal, slaugh-tered some 300 Chinese immigrants.

OrientationTorren is located in the state of Coahuila andis contiguous with the cities of Gmez Palacio

and Ciudad Lerdo (both in Durango state);all three together are known as La Laguna(though the namesake lagoons around the areafill only in the rainy season). Torren itselffans out east of the Ro Nazas, with the Plazade Armas at the west end of town. Avs Jurezand Morelos extend east from the plaza, pastthe main government buildings and severallarge shaded parks. The Torren bus stationis 7km east of the center on Av Jurez.

InformationYoull find most services you need, includingbanks with ATMS and internet cafs, on ornear Plaza de Armas. Some staff members atCoahuila Turismo(x732-22-44; www.ocvlaguna.com;Paseo de la Rosita 308D;h9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat), 5km east of the center, speak English.

Dangers & Annoyances

The city center, particularly the Plaza deArmas, can get seedy after dark, so be carefulif youre walking around after about 10pm.

SightsTorrens shiny new Museo Arocena(x712-02-33; www.museoarocena.com; Cepeda 354 Sur; adult M$30,child & student M$10, Sun M$10;h10am-6pm Tue-Sun,until 8pm Thu), just off the Plaza de Armas, hasgalleries of Mexican and Spanish art and a

small city history exhibit, but the best part isthe 4th-floor balcony, which traces the his-tory of Mexico through its art, from Olmecmasks to Octavio Pazs poetry. The audi-torium shows art-house films (included inthe ticket price) on Thursday, Saturday andSunday (varying times). In front of the mu-seum is an entrance to Canal de la Perla, a cool-to-walk-through former aqueduct recentlyrediscovered by accident.

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The Museo Regional de la Laguna(x713-95-45;cnr Jurez & Cuauhtmoc; adult/child M$37/free;h10am-6:30pm Tue-Sun), located inside Torrens favoritepark, known as El Bosque (The Forest), hasexcellent displays on pre-colonial desert cul-

tures of the north, as well as other culturesfrom around the nation. The temporary artexhibits are hit or miss.

The key battles for Torren, includingPancho Villas escapades, are documented inthe Museo de la Revolucin (x722-69-22; cnr Lerdode Tejada & Calle 10; admission free;h10am-6pm Tue-Sun),not far from the Laguna Museum. Its wellpresented, but you wont get much out of it ifyou cant read Spanish.

Torrens municipal cultural office runsthree museums. Three blocks off the plaza,the Museo del Ferrocarril(x711-34-24; Revolucin atCarrillo;adult/child M$10/3, tr-entry ticket M$15, free on Tue;h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)has half a dozen train carsand related tools in an old railway workshop.Six blocks west is the Casa del Cerro(x716-50-72; Calzada Industria; adult/child M$10/3, tr-entry ticketM$15, free on Tue;h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), the Houseon the Hill. Of the three museums, this is the

one that shouldnt be missed. Built in 1902by engineer Federico Wullf, the mansion isgorgeous, and so are the original furnishingsthat fill it. Photos in the bathroom (why not?)show how much work went into restoring it.Surrounded by palm trees and a lush lawn,its a freakish little oasis in this industrialcity. Slip straight through Mercado Alianzaand turn left toward the trees to reach theMuseo El Torren (x716-36-79; cnr Jurez & Calle 5

de Mayo;adult/child M$10/3, tr-entry ticket M$15, free onTue;h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)preserving the facadeof an hacienda. It only holds a few historicalphotos of the city and is home to its buildersgrave, under the tower that gave the city itsname.

The 20.8m-tall Cristo de las Noas, fronting theTV antennas south of the city, is the second-tallest Christ statue in the Americas.

Sleeping & EatingYoull pass lots of four- and five-star hotelsaimed at business travelers on your wayinto town.

Hotel Galicia (x716-11-19; Cepeda 273 Sur; s/dM$147/160)This 1930s inn is a study in faded el-egance, with beautiful tiled halls, stained glassand battered furniture. The owners are veryfriendly, and the place has genuine character.Toilet seats are missing in most rooms.

Hotel Palacio Real (x716-00-00; Morelos 1280Pte; r incl breakfast M$380-767;pai)There areseveral good midrange hotels downtownalong Av Morelos, but this 1950s giant is theonly one right on the plaza. Its a tad tired

these days, but the rooms are large and soare the views.

Del Granero (x712-91-44; Morelos 444 Pte; mainsM$20-48;h8am-9pm;nv)Vegetarians andcarnivores alike will love this bright caf,which serves delicious meat-free, whole-wheat

gorditas,burritos and tortas. The adjoiningbakery also goes the whole-wheat route.

Fu-Hao(x716-55-47; Cepeda 259 Sur; mains M$25-150,buffet adult/child M$78/45;h11:30am-10:30pm)Besides

the ubiquitous buffet found in most MexicanChinese restaurants, this Chinese-ownedplace on the plaza has a full menu. And thefood is pretty good.

Getting There & AroundThere are bus stations in both Torren andGmez Palacio, and long-distance buses usu-ally stop at both. Torren is a major trans-portation hub, with 1st-class buses departing

regularly for the following:

Destination Fare Duration

Chihuahua M$313 6hr Cuatro Cinegas M$137 3hr Durango M$182 3hr Mexico City M$731 13hr Saltillo M$192 3hr Zacatecas M$279 6hr

The tolls on the highway to Durango totalM$325; most vehicles take the slightly slowerfree road, unless traffic is really heavy.

Frequent city buses (M$4.50) run up anddown Jurez between the Plaza de Armas andthe bus station. Buses heading to the centerwill be marked Centro. To the bus termi-nal, catch a Central, Campo Alianza orDivisin bus. Taxis, which are metered, willcost about M$30.

AROUND TORRENMapim & OjuelaThe deserts north of La Laguna are strikingand hold many semiprecious stones for gemhunters. The village of Mapim, founded in1585, was once the center of an incrediblyproductive mining area and served the nearbyOjuela Mine between periodic raids by theCocoyom and Toboso tribes. Benito Jurez

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passed through Mapim in 1864 during hisflight from French forces. The house where hestayed, near the northwest corner of the plaza,is now the unremarkable Museo Jurez(admissionfree;h9am-2pm & 4-6pm). Miguel Hidalgo was

imprisoned here in 1811, and locals will beeager to show you that house too. The churchtower still has bullet holes from battles duringthe Revolution.

At the end of the 19th century, the MinaOjuela supported an adjacent town of the samename with a population of over 5000. Today, acluster of abandoned stone buildings clings toa hillside as a silent reminder of the bonanzayears. A precarious 315m-long suspension

bridge, the Puente Colgante de Ojuela (adult/childM$15/5;h9am-6pm), was built over a 100m-deepgorge to carry ore trains from the mine. Todayyou can walk over it. A site guide (M$15)will lead you into the mines maze of tunnelswith hand-held oil lamps, showing you somemining equipment left behind, including amummified mule, before taking you out theother side for a good view of the bridge. Foran extra M$100 you can return across the

gorge on a zip-line.To reach Mapim from Torren, go 40kmnorth on Hwy 49 (stay on Hwy 49 when Hwy49D splits off) to Bermejillo, then 25km weston Hwy 30. Second-class buses leave Torrensbus station for Mapim (M$33, two hours)hourly. The well-signed turn-off for Puentede Ojuela comes 3km before Mapim. Fromthere a narrow and rough (but easily p

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