mid-atlanitc koi magazine april 2014

Mid~Atlantic KoiThe Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club April 2014

Koi Health Beginners Mistake Big Fish Challenge

Mid-Atlantic Koi April 2014

Mid-Atlantic Koi Deadlinesfor articles, meeting announcements and ads

May Issue Deadline: April 1Available Online: May 1

June Issue Deadline: June 1Available Online: July 1

The Membership Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club

Volume 27, Number 8 April 2014

Big Fish Challenage

Photo by ConradKleinholz

From the Editor’s Desk . . . . . .6

MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers . . . . . . . .19

Sunshine Column . . . . . . . . .28

Treasurer’s Report . . . . . . . . .28

F..A..S..T Ads . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Ad Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

—MAKC News

Beginner’s Corner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

MAKC Corporate Members . . . . . . . . . . .7

Foamy, Stinky Ponds in the Spring . . . .8Don Harrawood, SKAPA, KHA

The Big Fish Challenge . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Conrad Kleinholz, PhD, Kleinholz Koi Farm

Health Care Part 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Ben Plonski, California

Why You Don’t Want Your Koi

to Get Koi Herpes Virus . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Sally Karo, KHA, CKK

Your Koi are What They Eat . . . . . . . . .20Gregory A. Lewbart, MS, VMD, DACZM

The Beginner’s First Mistake . . . . . . . . .24Ed Keene, DSAS, Delaware

Koi Keeper vs. Heron:

The Final Solution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26James Damis, Cascade Koi & Goldfish Club

On the Road to a Koi Event . . . . . . . . . . .29

Picture to Share . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

MAKC Membership Application . . . . .33

Mid~Atlantic Koi

—Upcoming Event

Saugerties Chapter Meeting . . . . . . .29

Remember toRenew YourMembership

Don’t Wait – Do it Today.

Renewal form you can print out is on page 33.

April 2014 Mid-Atlantic Koi

Production: Cindy Graham, NextUp Creations

MAKC Home Page: http://www.makc.com

MAKC Executive CommitteePresident

Philip Gray (516) 486-5163 [email protected]

Cell (516) 967-4966

Vice-President

Looking for a Volunteer

Secretary

Dinah Bwint (610) 287-9178 [email protected]

Treasurer

Anthony Vitale (516) 420-0740 [email protected]

Central Chapter Vice-President


Long Island Chapter Vice-President

Bruce Levine (516) 735-2644 [email protected]

North Chapter Vice-President

Dan Bitcon (973) 699-2186 [email protected]

Saugerties (NY) Chapter Vice-President

Herb Ehrich (845) 247-7105 [email protected]

South Chapter Vice-President

Chuk Nixon (301) 717-7702 [email protected]

Standing CommitteesMembership

Barry Hixson (610) 262-5184 [email protected]

AKCA Representative

Philip Gray (516) 486-3807 [email protected]

MAKC Sales

Ruth & Gene Rice (304) 725-2333 [email protected]

MAKC Notice Group Manager

Michael Snyder (301) 762-2059 [email protected]

WebMaster


Execut ive Board Adv isor y Committee

Joe Zuritsky (215) 575-4001 [email protected]

Betty Roemer (828) 697-2692 [email protected]

Art Lembke (410) 867-0270 [email protected]

Mike Riordan (732) 747-6089 [email protected]

Gene Rice (304) 725-2333 [email protected]

Eric Wilson (613) 421-7890 [email protected]

Ellie Cooper (610) 865-1163 [email protected]

Japanese Cultural Adv iserMisa Sitterly (703) 490-0770 [email protected]

Mid-Atlantic Koi is the magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club.Material is selected for its interest to Koi keepers. MAKC acceptsno responsibility for accuracy of content. Reproduction ofuncopyrighted articles is permitted as long as this magazine is credited as the source.

Mid-Atlantic Koi MagazineEditor, Carolyn Weise (239) 573-6650 x105 [email protected]

Advertising Editor, Philip Gray (516) 486-5163 [email protected]

Meeting/Events Editor, Carolyn Weise (239) 573-6650 x105 [email protected]

FAST Ads Editor, Philip Gray (516) 486-5163 [email protected]


KumonryuPhotos by Joe Pawlak, Blackwater Creek Koi Farms, Inc.

thawing an area of the surface sufficient for gasexchange. The fish should be alright in that case.

Note: This column offers suggestions only; theultimate care of your pond and fish is up to you.


Question

HELP! My pond is frozen solid, are my fish alright???

Answer

Len, if the pond is honestly frozen from thesurface to the bottom, then the fish cannotsurvive. However, most ponds do not freeze"solid" except for few inches on the surface. Findout the frost line in your area from a local gardenshop or cooperative extension to see how likely itis the pond would be completely frozen. If it isnot, then get a floating decider capable of

Beginner’s CornerAsk a question and we will get you an answer.

Wanted – Your Questions

Please email your questions [email protected].

We look forward to hearing from you!

www.qualitykoi.com

Hi,

I just returned from the Central Florida KoiShow where I spent the weekend watching ourclub president judging Koi! There was a judgingseminar at this show and many enthusiastichobbyists, some just getting ready to install theirfirst ponds. Do you remember your first pond?The passion is contagious. MAKC is ready toenter a new phase of life by joining forces withthe up-and-coming Koi Society that has sprungup in the past couple of years. It does not take theplace of AKCA.

Koi Society is another resource for Koi lovers andpond lovers (and yes, goldfish lovers!) Thewebsite is www.koisociety.com and I hope youwill join me in taking a good look at what’s going

on over there because we are going to be part ofit. This is exciting for MAKC!

In this issue, we have articles which are specialfor spring and things which are not simply repet-itive but new information to make water garden-ing and Koi keeping the rewarding pleasure it wasmeant to be. Check out the Health Care (Part 2)by Ben Plonski and a serious look at what KHVmeans to your life, should it happen to yourpond, by Sally Karo. We still do not have anaffordable, easy to use preventative for KHV andit’s still out there, killing fish. Oh, and when youshop for fish food this spring, you should seethe“Your Koi are What They Eat” by Gregory A.Lewbart, MS, VMD, DACZM (courtesy ofWashington Koi & Water Garden Society).

Take advantage of our other columns: BeginnersCorner, Sunshine Column, Fast Ads, and theMeetings announcements. Thanks to all whocontributed to this issue.

Yours in Koi!Carolyn


From the Editor’s Deskby Carolyn [email protected]

MAKC President Philip Gray spotted judging at the San Diego Koi Show 2014.


M A K C C o r p o r a t e M e m b e r s

Interested in Interested in becoming a becoming a

Corporate Member?Corporate Member?

Reasonable one time fee for theReasonable one time fee for theyear year –– includes a includes a

Business Card size ad in all issuesBusiness Card size ad in all issuesin this section and in this section and

on the MAKC website. on the MAKC website.

Contact Barry Hixson at

610-262-5184 or [email protected]

www.mazuri.com

Quality Koi Company

Nisei Koi Farm

[email protected]

www.qualitykoi.com

East Coast – Patio Ponds, LTD301-874-8440West Coast – Laguna Koi Ponds949-494-5107

www.MatalaUSA.com

www.hikariusa.com/mk

www.qualitykoi.com

www.beadfilters.com

www.mazuri.com

www.kodamakoifarm.com

www.matalausa.com

Reprinted from the Washington Koi & Water Garden Society

In the spring, several pond owners mayfind that their pond water is all of asudden very foamy, the water is discolored,and the pond stinks to high heaven. Mostwill find that their ammonia level went off

the chart. Unaware to the pond owners, their fishcould have been spawning.

Koi generally spawn in early spring during themonths of March through June; however, theymay spawn anytime during the year. Often timesoccurrences such as a water change, backwashing a pressure filter, or a spring rain willinitiate a spawn. Most any small change in thepond during this period could spark the spawn.

Foamy, Stinky Ponds in the Springby Don Harrawood, SKAPA, KHA

Prior to the spawning one may notice several Koichasing another Koi throughout the pond. Theone being chased is a female that is ready to layher eggs. The chasers are males and occasionallya female will join in the chase. The males willsometimes bump the female and force heragainst the wall of the pond or against a hardsurface in order to induce her to lay her eggs. Thespawning process often times gets very violent.

The female will generally find a plant or someother protective area in which to deposit hereggs. When the eggs are deposited, the male Koiwill spray them with milt, which fertilizes theeggs. These deposits of eggs and milt causes foamon the water surface, a discoloration of the water,and a very strong fishy odor. This process alsogreatly increases the ammonia level in the pond


Fish Eggs

water. Water changes may be called for if thebiological filtration is not adequate enough todispose of the added ammonia. An immediatetesting for ammonia is recommended, since ahigh concentration of this chemical may result in high stress or death of Koi.

Immediately after the spawn, the other Koi willstart devouring all the eggs that they can find.These eggs are food for them to enjoy. The eggsare covered with a sticky substance and willattach to any solid surface they touch. Eggs that

are attached inside plant growth and hidden outof sight of the other Koi have a reasonable chanceto hatch. Hatch time is determined by watertemperature, and generally is about 5 days.

After hatching, there is still danger the hatchedfry will be eaten by the adult Koi. Koi will eattheir young until they get a certain size. It isthought that when the fry start getting somecolor on their bodies, the other Koi will nolonger bother them. This takes several weeks of survival.


Spawning in the Charbonneau tank at the Oregon Koi & Watergarden Society Show. While unexpected and odiferous, it did not keep the female Koi “Picasso” from winning Grand Champion.

Idon’t build or sell equipment for the pondtrade. I am one of the people who raise thefish for which the ponds are built. Duringthe last decade, I have seen a steady declinein demand for Goldfish with a concurrent

increase in demand for Koi. That reality changeseverything we think we know about watergardens. Only a few of us have the resources tohave grand champion Koi, but almost all of uscan maintain truly beautiful fish. All it takes is afew changes in the way we design and operateour ponds. Koi are big fish and they need acompletely different environment than Goldfishto thrive.

The Big Fish ChallengeTransitioning from Water Gardens to Koi Ponds

by Conrad Kleinholz, PhD, Kleinholz Koi Farm

Getting StartedFor the best results, Koi ponds should be at leastthree feet deep. While Goldfish can do well inshallow ponds that receive little or no addedfood, Koi in such an environment lose luster andbody condition. But, when Koi get sufficient foodfor optimum appearance, the waste load over-whelms most water garden filter systems. Koineed deeper water and more filtration thanGoldfish. Most of the Goldfish in water gardensare less than eight inches long and weigh two tofour ounces. Water garden Koi, on the otherhand, are often between 15 and 20 inches longand weigh two to five pounds.


This article contains recom-mendations to water gardenersfor adapting filtration systemsin existing ponds to accommo-date the rising popularity ofKoi. My recommendations arebased on my research on filtersystems for ornamental pondsat Langston University and onthe bioreactor systems I havedeveloped for holding anddisplay tanks at our own farm.

If you have or obtain a clientwho wants to change the focusof her pond from Goldfish toKoi, or who has Koi but doesn’tlike the maintenance theyrequire, there are some relatively easy ways to help her.Garden pond filter designshave advanced rapidly duringthe past few years. Most arenow capable of maintainingsmall Koi or small numbers oflarger Koi. But what can youdo if you get a referral for aclient with an older gardenpond and filtration system?You probably got the callbecause the client is frustratedby the inability of his currentfiltration system to maintainclear water, or by the amountof maintenance required tokeep clear water. During theinitial consultation, be sure tofind out if he is satisfied withhis current fish population orif he wants more and/or bigger fish.

Once you have determined theclient’s desires for the pond,check Table 1 to find theamount of filtration media

needed to maintain his targetKoi population, and then go toTable 2 to find the amount ofmedia surface area in thecurrent filtration system. Thetable compares different mediabased on surface area and costper foot2. These two tables willgive you an evaluation beyondthe simple “good for ponds upto” information. In order toobtain and maintain waterclarity, you must know whatthe filter really does, and the

tables are intended to reducecallbacks and maintenanceheadaches for you and your clients.

As an example, we see fromTable 1 that an 18-inch Koishould weigh about 3.5pounds, and that it will need0.2 feet3 of media that contains200 feet2 of surface area perfoot3 of media volume. If thepond has 10 fish of that size,then the media requirement


Table 1. Total body length (TL: tip of nose to tip of tail) forKoi of various sizes(1) and the quantity of media (feet3 orgallons) needed to maintain acceptable water quality for asingle fish of the sizes indicated.

(1) Length-weight data from the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club.* Quantity of media, either feet3 or gallons, is based on media thatcontains 200 feet2 of surface area per foot3 of media, and on the fact thatthe Koi are to be fed a 35 percent protein diet. Use the data in Table 2 tofind the quantity of media needed for different ratios of surface area tovolume.

becomes two feet3, or 14gallons. Comparing the mediarequirement to 10 Goldfish, ifwe assume the fish are eightinches long and have weightsequal to Koi up to this size, wenow have a requirement foronly 0.1 foot3, or 1.2 gallons ofmedia. If the existing filtervaults are too small to containthe needed media, it is easy tosee how filtration systemsbecome overwhelmed.

We can easily deepen an established rock-lined pond

to accommodate Koi byremoving the rocks below theplant shelf and using them inlandscaping around the pond.This simple fix can increase theusable depth and volume of apond by 50 to 100 percent. Koiponds don’t have rock linersbecause the rocks interferewith water filtration. A singleKoi will produce as muchwaste material as one to twodozen Goldfish, and that wasteis much easier to managewithout rocks. Deeper pondsdon’t heat or cool as quickly as

shallow ponds, so their waterquality tends to be more stable,but deeper water does requireactive aeration with air stonesor diffuser disks. Deeper pondsare easier to keep clean becausewe can collect waste from thebottom rather than with asurface skimmer.

Adding bottom drains allowsus to remove plumbing fromthe pond and switch fromsubmersible to external pumps.While external pumps aremore expensive, they cost lessto operate, and when operatingcost is included externalpumps win – especially afterthe first year. Within the three-year normal life of asubmersible pump, electricalsavings will pay for a newexternal pump. Add a strainerbasket on the intake side andthey are also easier to keepclean, especially if you areaccustomed to putting asubmersible pump inside askimmer box.

You can get a retrofittedbottom drain for an existingpond and connect it to theskimmer vault. Install a checkvalve in the line so the pumpwon’t lose prime. Remove thesubmersible pump from theskimmer vault and install ahorizontal perforated plate atthe water level to collect litter.You or your client can easilyremove leaves with a net. If thepond has a big skimmer vault,consider retrofitting it as afilter. Add an air stone or dome


Table 2. Comparison of surface area (ft2) per volume (ft3),and cost per foot2 of various types of commercially availablefiltration media for use in ornamental ponds. Prices are in USdollars during 2013. The data indicate the amount of medianeeded to transform nutrients to nontoxic components. Up to10 times the indicated amount of media may be needed toachieve acceptable water clarity.

and fill it 60 percent full of moving bed media.You can remove the solids more effectivelydownstream of the pump.

Install a vault for solids removal and plumb it asan upflow unit. Put an air stone or disk on thebottom for agitation to dislodge solids duringflushing. Add media like Springflo or Bio-Balls.They can capture solids and are easy to cleanwithout using a lot of water. Mats that are fineenough to trap solids are a pain to clean. Theyuse both time and water in excess of their useful-ness in solids removal versus clogging. If youcan’t live without filter pads, at least change theway you use them. Install the most open meshnearest to the water intake, with progressivelydenser mesh closest to the pond return. You will spend less than half the usual time for pad maintenance.

If the existing filter system needs more surfacearea, the cheapest solution may be to remove theold media and replace it with new media that has

larger surface area and volume. If there is notenough volume for more media in the existingskimmer, filter and waterfall vaults, you can addnew vaults. You will probably need to do thebioreactor remodeling over a period of four toeight weeks. Replace media in only one vault at atime so that existing bioreactor activity is notlost. Check N (both total ammonia and nitrite)levels and wait until they stabilize to replace thenext media vault. If addition of bacterial culturesdoes not maintain healthy N levels, you may haveto turn off the UV and let algae help with the N removal until the new bioreactor matures.

Planktonic algae are still best managed with UVsystems. Ionic systems are best suited for waterfeatures without fish. Dissolved copper can reachharmful or toxic concentrations in lined ponds.

Contractors can make these suggested changeswithin a single day. They will allow you to makeyour clients’ fish and ponds much more attrac-tive and probably earn you many referrals. I hopethey also serve as a call of opportunity to manufacturers to provide larger, more efficientfiltration systems.

About the AuthorConrad Kleinholz has been the AquacultureProgram Leader at Langston University,Oklahoma for 20 years. A major research focus of

the program is managingwater quality in ornamentalponds. Bioreactor systems foruse in ornamental ponds aredesigned and tested. Thesystems enhance the healthand appearance of the fish andthe ponds. His research

findings are the source of this article. He and his son, Kurt, have produced showqualityKoi on their farm in Stillwater, Okla for 10 years.You can learn more about their farm atwww.kleinholzkoifarm.com

Reprinted with permission from POND Trade Magazine


Kurt Kleinholz carefully moves a parent Koi to a new pond.


Treatment of Microscopic ParasitesAdd rock salt to the pond at 3 to 4 pounds per100 gals. as a long term bath for 2 to 3 weeks.This produces a 0.3% to 0.5% level of salt. Becertain to divide this dosage over two days so thepond and Koi can adjust. This level of salt has asoothing effect on the Koi and can help controlsome of these parasites. Rock salt helps the Koideal with stress. Koi normally lose internal bodysalts to the surrounding water by diffusion. TheKoi must expend energy to regain these lost saltsto maintain its health. This is called osmoregula-tion. When a Koi is weak or under stress,osmoregulation is more difficult. Adding salt tothe pond will help the Koi retain its body salts.Rock salt will help the Koi save vital energy. Moreenergy can be directed at fighting disease. Rocksalt also increases mucous production on the Koi.This helps to slough off some of the parasitesand protects the Koi. Rock salt at this concentra-tion also has an inhibitory effect on the parasite.Rock salt by itself can cure some species ofmicroscopic parasites; however, some speciesmay not be affected at all. Some species of para-sites will require chemical medication. Salt treat-ments usually take 3 to 5 days to be effective.Chemical medications must be used if Koiremain sick or get worse during salt treatment.While rock salt is an excellent aid to diseasecontrol, it is not a cure all. Dilute your salt levelafter 3 weeks by making daily 10% to 15% water changes.

A very reliable salt level test kit is available fromyour pond retailer around $12 that is veryaccurate. Get one if you plan to use salt. This testkit recommends that you do not exceed 0.14%salt. This is true for plant ponds or ponds with alot of algae.

Health Care Part 2by Ben Plonski, Laguna Koi Ponds, California

A word of caution. Rock salt at 3 to 4 poundsper 100 gallons will kill algae and aquatic plantsin the pond. The resulting decay of plantmaterial will pollute the pond and cause oxygendepletion. Weak Koi will not survive this addi-tional stress. Excess algae and aquatic plants mustbe removed before the addition of rock salt.Salt treatment is an effective therapy for weakKoi; however, algae or aquatic plant growth mayprevent its use. Salt treatments are not manda-tory. You may opt to use chemical medicationsinstead of salt.

The most well known chemical medication formicroscopic parasites is a combination of twochemicals called Formalin and Malachite Green.This combination is known under many tradenames (Paracide Green, Rid-Ich) and can befound in any good Koi pond retail center. Mostmicroscopic parasites can be controlled with thistreatment. Use according to dosage on the bottleand treat once every 4 days when water tempera-ture is above 65°F; and once every 5 to 7 dayswhen temperature is between 55°F to 65°F. Treata total of 3 times. When water temperature isbelow 55°F, do not treat. The Formalin compo-nent can harm your filter if you dose when thewater temperature is cooler than 60°F. Likewise ifyour filter is too small or is recently establishedyou may stunt the good bacteria with theformalin. Use caution and know your pondvolume accurately before dosing. Some hobbyistsopt to turn off or by-pass their filter for 4 to 6hours on the day of treatment. Below 55°F to50°F, most parasites are not a problem.

The Trichlorfon treatment can be used inconjunction with the Formalin/Malachite Green.This treatment has a broader spectrum of


control. However, the salt level in the pondshould not exceed the 3 pounds per 100 gallonswhen used with the formalin. Both treatmentstend to cause excessive sloughing of mucouswhen used together and caution is in order. TheKoi can actually lose its protective mucous whichis the last thing we want.

Most of the common parasites can be controlledwith these common treatments. However someparasites are becoming increasingly resistant tostandard medications. One such parasite is calledskin or body flukes. Flukes are microscopic andwhen afflicting Koi can do a lot of damage. TheKoi will scratch and jump a lot. A lot of mucousis produced by the Koi to protect itself. Flukescan open small sores on the Koi which canbecome infected with bacteria. It is important torid your Koi of flukes as quickly as possible.

When standard treatments fail you very likelyhave flukes. Fortunately, new treatments arebeing developed to control flukes. One effectivemedication for flukes is called Fluke-Tabs.Control can be gained quickly with this medica-tion, however proper dosage must be followed.Overdosing, as with most medications will domore harm than good. Usually one treatment perweek for 2 or 3 weeks is sufficient. Remember, adirty pond can degrade the treatment and renderit non-effective.

Another parasite which is acquiring immunity tostandard treatments is called Trichodina. Thismicroscopic parasite also causes the Koi toscratch or jump a lot and the Koi will produce alot of mucous. One of the best treatments forTrichodina is called potassium permanganate.This chemical is available through good Koi retailcenters. Great care must be exercised when usingthis chemical. Potassium permanganate is anoxidizing agent which can burn your Koi's gills ifoverdosed. This chemical is very useful but mustbe used properly. Never walk away from a potas-sium permanganate treatment.

To treat the entire pond with permanganate, usea low dose of only 7.5 grams of pure crystalpermanganate per 1000 gallons of pond water.This is not quite a LEVEL teaspoon. Thisproduces approximately a 2 ppm dose. Mix thisdose into a bucket of pond water and spreadevenly around the pond. The water will turnpurple. As the permanganate begins to decom-pose the color will turn to brown. The organicsin a pond react with the permanganate and causeit to decompose. The brown color determines thetermination point of the treatment. A dirty pondwill decompose the permanganate within 5 or 10 minutes.

An effective treatment must remain purple for 1 to 2 hours. A second or third treatment may berequired once a day for 2 to 3 days. Every treat-ment will stay purple for a little longer. Thepermanganate is oxidizing the organics and theparasites in the pond water. Every treatment thusincreases the permanganates effectiveness. Everytreatment also increases the chance of burningyour Koi's gills. For the Trichodina parasiteusually only 2 of the dosages are necessary tobring things in order. Fortunately, you can delib-erately terminate the treatment by adding adechlorinator solution as for tap water. If youaccidentally overdose or you think the Koi are indistress, add a dechlorinating agent for the fulldose of the pond volume; the color will turn tobrown within a few minutes and the treatment isterminated. You must maintain a high level ofoxygen with the permanganate treatment.Another benefit of this low dose permanganatetreatment is the oxidizing of water born and skinbacteria on the Koi. Permanganate is a goodpreventive to bacterial diseases.

A word of caution: Do not use potassiumpermanganate treatments with new biofilters asthis can stunt your good bacteria in the filter aswell. Turn your new filter off for one hour whileyou treat the pond. Ensure good aeration andcirculation within the pond during treatment.

Accurate Pond Gallonage Must BeKnown Before Any Treatment

Most medications only have a 15% margin forsafety or effectiveness. The most accurate way todetermine pond volume is to use a meter at thetime of filling. Alternatively, fill a 5 gallon bucketand time its fill, then use that number in gals perminute to figure the fill rate from the gardenhose.

Rectangular or square pond volume in gallons =

• (feet) length x width x average depth x 7.5 • (inches) length x width x average depth

Divided by 231

Circular ponds in gallons =

• radius =1/2 of diameter • area = radius x radius x 3.14 • volume = (feet) areax average depth x 7.5

Irregular Shapes Divide the pond up into circles,rectangles or squares. Add the divided partstogether.

Salt BathsSalt baths can be a quick way of reducing thenumber of parasites afflicting a Koi. Koi whichare heavily parasitized can be given a salt bath tohelp speed up the pond treatment. Also, new Koican be given a salt bath before being introducedinto the pond. This can really make a difference,especially with flukes and trichodina. To give asalt bath follow these steps.

1. Put 5 gals. of pond water into a large tub orbucket big enough for the Koi to becomfortable. Use only enough water so theKoi's top fin is just under the surface.

2. Add rock salt at 1 pound per 5 gals. to thetub and mix to dissolve.

3. Be sure the bath is well aerated beforeplacing the Koi in it.


www.beadfilters.com

4. Gently transfer the Koi with a plastic bagand place him into the salt bath.

5. Bathe the Koi for 5 minutes only. Do notleave the Koi alone. A weaker Koi will tendto roll over on its side within a few minutes,while stronger Koi may remain upright forthe entire bath. Remove weak Koi in 3minutes; remove stronger Koi in 5 minutes.

6. Transfer the Koi back to the pond by plastic bag and he will soon regain his equilibrium.

7. Salt baths may be given every 2 days butonly until the Koi shows improvement.Usually only 1 or 2 baths are necessary.Repeated salt baths are unnecessary andwill only weaken the Koi.

Follow up treatment in the pond may be given byany of the standard treatments already covered.The salt bath will not kill any of the parasiteswhich are free swimming in the pond or trappedin the filter. The salt bath cannot kill everyparasite on the Koi but it can greatly reduce the numbers.

Natural Balances.Koi have lived with parasites and otherpathogens since the time of their origin. Koi in awell maintained pond can live in a natural coex-istence with parasites. Remember, the goal is notto annihilate your Koi with every knownmedicine. A panic approach to disease controlusually kills the parasites and the Koi. When Koiscratch or act odd do not immediately dumpchemicals in their home. Use the process ofinvestigation and elimination we discussed andtreat for specific problems. Calm down and useyour common sense; give the Koi some time torecover from mild problems with improvedwater quality and filtration. Just like a dog whohas a few fleas we do not panic and over kill thesituation. This sets us up for worse problemsdown the line. Prevention is the key. Good waterquality and fewer fish tend to be a more suitableapproach to prevention. Take care of your waterand the water will take care of the Koi.


www.kodamakoifarm.com


Jerry and I had our first ordeal with KoiHerpes Virus in August 2005 (see article inJanuary 2006 WK & WGS Newsletter). Itwas a horrible, agonizing experience,prolonged because we could not believe

our fish had KHV. We had just returned ourshow fish back into the 18,000 gallon indoorpond, along with a new one we had purchasedfrom a dealer at the Portland show. We did notquarantine the new fish. Weeks later, our firstfish, Autumn, died, I had a necropsy done, butnot a KHV test. Concerned that we might haveparasites, we did Prazi and Pro-Form Ctreatments for the pond inhabitants.

The necropsy results showed aeromonashydrophila, which is a known killer of Koi.Friends of mine had just lost a fish from thesame dealer I had bought from, and they didsend a fish sample to University of Georgia for aKHV test, and the results had come backnegative, so, through the veil of magical thinking,I assumed my fish couldn’t have it either. Boy,was I wrong.

Even though we began treatment with Amikacin,and had portable fish tanks, air pumps, andheaters all over our garage and fish room, andraised the temperature and injected fish, thebody count kept climbing. Finally, both VickiVaughn and Dr. Erik Johnson said the fact that so many fish were dying suggested that this wasKHV. So on September 12, we shipped a freshfish and 3 frozen fish overnight to Vicki’s lab.(She is no longer at the U. of Georgia, by the way.)

Why You Don’t Want Your Koi to Get Koi Herpes Virus

by Sally Karo, KHA, CKK

On September 19, we got the call that said posi-tively our Koi had KHV. We dosed the pond withOxytet (Oxolinic Acid and Tetracycline, a sistercompound of Baytril), which helped withsecondary infections but fish continued to die.On September 21, we caught the best 16 fish toquarantine and heated them to 86 degrees…thiswas one of the hardest selections I have evermade. We now owned 10 aquarium heaters. Jerryand I did 50% water changes daily using hotwater from our utility room sink. We usedgallons of Ultimate.

We removed all fish from the pond and placedthem in show tanks, as with no hosts, the virus inthe pond should die off. By this time, we had lost50 gorgeous Koi. We spent 6 hours a day forweeks on end doing water changes. We “saved” anumber of fish for several years. Ultimately, welost 100 fish. We had started over with oursurvivor fish, and took in other club members’survivor fish so that they wouldn’t have to bekilled. This meant no more showing our Koi, orusing our equipment (even when sanitized)when visiting others’ ponds in my KHA work.We could not bring in any new healthy Koibecause our Koi were latent carriers even thoughthey were survivors. To add to our misery, appar-ently one survivor fish that we rescued was stillcontagious or had a different strain of KHV(something Dr. Jin is investigating now), andultimately we lost every Koi.

Right now, our pond is totally empty. If Jerry hashis way, it will remain empty. I have 7 healthy fishat Leo and Virginia’s now, but they will remainthere. Jerry doesn’t want to go through any more


dead fish; he does not remember fondly thewater changes, the tank set-up, the injections,staying up until 2 a.m. after working all day totry to save the Koi. It sure changes the way youfeel about your Koi. I really miss going out to thepond, and having my grandchildren’s Koi swimover to eat out of our hands or be petted. Wemiss the over $2,000 we spent trying to save our Koi.

What did we learn? Always quarantine a new fish. Normally, we did.The one time we didn’t, it was a disaster. Anotherlesson is to Act Fast. We delayed in getting PCRtesting done. We learned not to overcrowd, aswell. My advice to everyone is Be Wary. Whenyou hear someone say “I don’t have a quarantinetank,” think what a chance they are taking. BeCareful. Quarantine. Without a cure for thisdisease, it is possible that everyone in the hobbywill someday have a story like mine to tell. That’swhy it is so important to support KHV research,and Dr. Ling Jin at OSU is doing great work.

By the way, we were never 100% sure about thesource of our KHV, but the fact is that ourdisaster occurred after we introduced the onlyfish we hadn’t quarantined. We will never know.

Tissue samples can be sent to Oregon StateUniversity, where Dr. Ling Jin’s research is takingplace. Washington State University (WADDL)and University of Georgia also do PCR testing.UC Davis does ELISA testing.

Good luck with your auction and raffle. Wish I could be there. And I wish we had a cure for KHV.


MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers

Tom Burton Middletown, NJ 732-671-7045

Jan & Bill Fogle Wayne, PA 610-687-3105

Terri Janas Ashburn, VA 703-729-2988

Jeff Nicholson Odenton, MD 301-912-1928

All members have microscopes and healthbooks. In the event of a recorded message,please suggest a time when you're home toreceive a return call or when you'd like to call back.

Please remember that advice is given basedon your input–the ultimate responsibilityand treatment must remain with you.

www.makc.com

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Proper nutrition provides thefoundation upon which a strong andvital Koi, or fancy carp, husbandryprogram is constructed. Whileornamental fish nutrition is a vast and

largely unexplored subject, a large volume ofliterature on nutrition of aquaculture foodfish–those destined for humanconsumption–provides the basis for usefulextrapolation.

This article explains Koi anatomy and physiol-ogy; the types of commercial foods available; therelationship of nutrition, feeding and waterquality; the minimal nutritional requirements ofthe Koi, Cyprinus carpio; and appropriatefeeding regimens.

Quick Anatomy LessonA basic understanding of Koi gastrointestinalanatomy and physiology will help the readerunderstand and appreciate Koi nutrition.

Koi have soft fleshy projections called barbelslocated on either side of their mouths. All Koihave two pairs, the larger pair located beneaththe smaller pair. The barbels contain taste budsand help the Koi find food. Barbels do notpossess any bones or scales.

The Koi mouth, or buccal cavity, contains atongue but lacks teeth. Food enters the mouthand passes to the pharynx (throat) where it isground by pharyngeal teeth against the carpstone, a bony plate located at the top of thepharynx.

Your Koi are What They Eatby Gregory A. Lewbart, MS, VMD, DACZM

Large pharyngeal muscular pads help the Koimove food from its mouth to the grinding area.

Koi have a relatively long, coiled intestinal tractbut no true stomach. The intestine growsproportionally with a Koi’s age; younger fish havea proportionally shorter intestine than older fish.The terminal portion of the intestine, therectum, ends at the vent where waste productsare released into the water. Food is digested andabsorbed in the intestine with the help ofenzymes secreted by the liver, gallbladder, andpancreatic cells.

The multi-lobed liver is closely associated withthe intestine. The right lobe of the liversurrounds the large gallbladder while the leftlobe encases the spleen. Pancreatic tissue islocated in small cellular islands throughout themesentery (spider web-like tissue that connectsthe various internal organs).

At a temperature of 68 degrees Fahrenheit, a Koitakes about five hours to digest its food.

Getting HungryIn nature, carp consume plant and animal matterand will eat almost anything they can draw intotheir mouths. They also perpetually search forfood.

In captivity, they will eat opportunistically–algaeand small invertebrates–but the bulk of their dietcomes from human caregivers.

Koi keepers have a nutritional edge over otherornamental fish hobbyists.

Because of a number of variables that affectnutritional requirements, including species


diversity, environmental temperature, age andsize of fish, and level of activity, it would beimpossible to list specific nutritional requirements of all ornamental fish.

But detailed work, most related to carp aquacul-ture in Europe and Asia, has provided us with agood baseline for the nutritional requirements of Koi.

A few general considerations worth mentioning.

Ornamental fish obtain most of their energy fromdietary fat. All fish require essential fatty acids intheir diets, and carp and Koi require both omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. However, fat shouldnot exceed 15 percent of the daily intake in orderto avoid hepatic lipidosis, or fatty liver disease.

Fat breaks down into water and carbon dioxide,which is non-toxic in the aquarium or pond,whereas protein breaks down into toxicammonia and nitrite.

Most fish do not require carbohydrates, althougha number of species, including Goldfish and Koi,utilize hindgut fermentation to digest complexcarbohydrates.

Most commercial diets list protein as the largestpercentage of the dry matter contained in thefeed. Like higher vertebrates, fish require 10amino acids . . . [those are: Arginine, Histidine,Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine,Phenylalanine, Threonine, Tryptophan, andValine], all of which exist in animal protein.

While some commercial diets contain plantprotein as part of their total protein, animalproteins are the most desirable, as fish are mostefficient at digesting and assimilating animalproteins.

Younger Koi do better with a slightly higherprotein percentage (35-38 percent versus 32-35percent for older fish). . . .


Nutritional deficiencies can lead to a variety ofclinical problems including curvature of thespine, poor growth and hemorrhage of the skinand fins.

Much is said about temperature and how itrelates to feeding Koi. Most hobbyists stopfeeding Koi when the water temperatures dropbelow 50 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a goodguideline, but Koi can and will eat at watertemperatures below 50 degrees.

With the decrease in temperature comes adecrease in metabolic rate, leading to a decreasein required caloric intake. The main risk offeeding at low temperatures is a buildup ofuneaten food in the pond. The possibility ofnondigested food decomposing in the Koi’s GItract has been mentioned, but evidence support-ing this claim doesn’t exist.

Researchers have published some interestingwork on carp, nutrition, and temperature. Theyfound that when carp were fed at 77 degreesFahrenheit, they grew faster and had a betterfood conversion rate than similar carp kept at 95degrees. The cooler carp also had more collagenin their bones and did not require supplementalvitamin C, while the fish in warmer water did.

Hungry Fish

Several general references provide more data onKoi nutrition. [WK&WG Editor’s note: thecourse in Koi Nutrition, by Dr. Richard Strange,U. of Tennessee, is a good option, availablethrough Koi Organisational International.]

Pellets, Paste and FlakesA wide variety of commercially produced feedsare available to the Koi owners. The majority ofthese fish foods can be purchased in pet, depart-ment and grocery stores, or on the Internet.Manufacturers generally design the containerswith marketing in mind and specific certainfoods for different types of growth or coloration.

The most commonly available and purchasedKoi food is the floating pellet. Sinking pellets,paste foods and flake foods are also available.

When selecting a feed type, consider the leachingof essential nutrients from the food into thewater. Water-soluable vitamins are most vulnera-ble to nutrient leaching, and studies have shownthat a large percent of vitamin C, viamin B12,choline and pantothenic acid dissipate in thewater within 30 seconds of feeding.

Freshwater fish are unable to capture these lostvitamins.

By reducing surface-area-to-volume ratios,leaching can be minimized. Thus, pelleted andgranular feeds that are swallowed whole by thefish tend to be more functionally nutritious thanflake foods. Pelleted foods also contain cookedcarbohydrates, which are more digestible thanuncooked carbohydrates.

Provide some dietary variety when feeding yourfish. This could be done by offering two or threetypes of commercial feeds.

Live Goldfish, guppies and other feeder fishshould be discouraged because of the risk oftransmitting contagious diseases, especiallyectoparasites.

Live foods such as earthworms, bloodworms,black worms, tubificid larvae (tubifex worms)and bring shrimp generally present less of a risk of disease transmission, but cases have been reported.

Non-fish pet foods, such as dog food and catfood, should not be fed.

Commercially produced and packaged fish feedsfrequently do not list a manufacture or expira-tion date. Flake and pelleted feeds should bestored in sealed containers and be kept cool anddry, ideally in the household refrigerator.

For the best and safest results, discard andreplace food after six to eight months. It may notbe the most economically sound decisions, but itmakes health sense to buy smaller containers of food.

Easy on the FeedingTo a large degree, the quality of the water dictateshow long the fish can live in a tank or pond. IfKoi are overfed, uneaten food or excessivenitrogenous waste production can literallypoison fish in their own pond or aquarium.

As a general rule, Koi should be fed no more thanthey can eat in three to five minutes, and in mostcases, several daily feedings are adequate.

Since they lack a true stomach, frequent feedingis commonly suggested.

Of course, exceptions to this guideline exist,especially when the nutritional requirements ofvery young fish are considered.

Juvenile fish usually require multiple dailyfeedings and more food by weight since they arerapidly growing. Most Koi should be fedbetween 1 and 3 percent of bodyweight per day.For example, a 2 pound fish would eat betweenone-third ounce and 1 ounce of food per day.


Thus–and this is only a guideline–a pond withten 2 pound fish should receive about apound of food daily.

One of the most common causes of pet fishmortality is the friend or neighbor syndrome.The scenario is familiar.

The Koi owner is away on vacation for a shorttime and the friend or neighbor is charged withtaking care of the pond. Eager to please the fishand keep them happy, the neighbor overfeeds. Anegative feedback loop develops in whichammonia levels rise, the fish become anorexic,and the worried caretaker places more or differ-ent feeds in the pond or aquarium to see if theycan get the fish to eat something.

Some of the best advice is to simply feed the fishwell a day or two before leaving and let themfend for themselves for a couple of days.

If the owner will be gone for several days orlonger, pre-measured packets/baggies of foodwill solve the problem.

Researchers say one can’t overfeed a Koi, but onecan overfeed a pond.

In warmer months, the act of eating and digest-ing will use valuable oxygen. In winter, Koi willlikely have plenty of oxygen but may not beinterested in food, as their metabolism will haveslowed for the season. Furthermore, uneatenfood will only pollute the aquarium or pond withunnecessary nitrogen.

Some food additives, such as carotenoids, mayenhance or affect the color of your Koi. However,a Koi’s pigmentation is genetically programmed,and with proper nutrition, water quality, andother husbandry parameters, the Koi’s naturalcolors should be vibrant.

Many commercial diets add Spirulina (an aquaticplant) for color and nutritional benefits.

Synthetic carotenoids called xanthins are alsofrequently added to commercial Koi foods.Except in unusual circumstances, a variety offresh commercial pelleted feeds should provideyour fish with all of the necessary nutrients and pigments.

Koi nutrition is one of the most important andvital components of proper aquarium or pondmaintenance. Numerous factors must be considered when developing a successful feedingregimen. The basic concepts of diet selection,frequency of feeding and amount of food, nutritional requirements of a Koi and theimportance of water quality are all key factors to be considered.

About the AuthorDr. Greg Lewbart, Professor of Aquatic Animal

Medicine at North CarolineState University, teachesinvertebrate, fish, andreptile medicine. He is agraduate of University ofPennsylvania School ofVeterinary Medicine (1988)and is a Diplomate of theAmerican College of

Zoological Medicine. He is faculty advisor for the NCSU-CVM Turtle Rescue Team and hasauthored numerous professional articles and books.


www.longislandfishhospital.com

Many people, having beenimpressed by Koi they have seenat their friends' homes,professional offices (e.g. doctors,lawyers, etc.), or pet shops,

decide to try out the Koi fish hobby for themselves.Although many continue to maintain a pond forthe rest of their lives, unfortunately, many find theassociated expense and maintenance tasksfrustrating enough to give up the hobby, and quitin total disgust.

If many of these people had done some researchand applied the useful knowledge they obtained,they might not have quit the hobby, but rather,would still be in it today. This article will discussthe first common error and misconception thatbeginning hobbyists have regarding the establish-ment of their ponds. Believe it or not, the firstmistake they make is in the purchase of their newpond. How can this be, you ask, for in order tobecome involved and interested in the hobby theyneed to have a pond. Let me explain.

One of the first things is deciding what size pondto install, and although this sounds very simple itdoes present at least one, if not two, majorproblems to the beginner. The bad news here isthat the beginner doesn't realize that a problem ortwo even exists!! The first problem stems from afairly well-documented and well-known factamong hobbyists. The greater the volume of waterthe lesser the problems that can overcome thepond and the lesser the volume of water the greaterthe problems that can overcome the pond. Thesecond stems from the total dimensions of thepond and other living areas it will displace when installed.

Problem One: The Pond SizeWhat does that mean? Well, a larger sized pond, say2000 to 3000 gallons or more, will take several daysor longer before a minor problem will turn itselfinto a major catastrophe. On the other hand, asmaller sized pond, say 150 gallons or less, mayonly take a couple hours before a minor problemreaches the catastrophic state. A good examplewould be the protozoan parasite Ichthyoptthiriusmultiflis or, as it is more commonly referred toamong hobbyists, "Ich" or "White Spot disease." Ichis one of the primary skin affecting diseases offreshwater fish.

The complete Ich lifecycle, cyst to tomite to adult,lasts approximately 7 days at 77°F (or 6 weeks at43°F water temperature and smaller bodies ofwater heat more quickly). At the adult stage, Ichcauses the appearance of very tiny white spots overthe body and fins of fish. Prior to this, in its cyststage, it is encased and laying dormant at thebottom of the pond. In poor quality water the cystwill explode giving rise to a minimum of severalhundred tomites.

It is during the tomite stage, which lasts forapproximately 3 days, that the Ich is very infectiousto the fish yet sensitive to meditated treatments.With a larger pond, and thus a larger volume ofwater, you will have more time to detect the whitespots and begin medicated treatment to avoid cata-strophic infection. In a smaller space, the samecannot be said. By the time you first observe whitespots on the fish, it will probably be too late to savethe fish and will have taken a firm hold on all ofthe fish in the pond. In the smaller pond, the Ichdid not have to travel far or search long to locate afish to attach itself to.


The Beginner’s First Mistakeby Ed Keene, Diamond State Aquarium Society, Delaware, and Adapted for Ponds by C. Weise

It's as easy as A B C . . . Pond Basic Concepts . . .

One consideration the beginner takes into accountwhen making the pond purchase is the price.Generally speaking, the beginner, simply becauseof being a beginner, decides to buy a small pondsay 100 gallons. I think that the logic of thebeginner subconsciously dictates this, in that thebeginner convinces himself that because the largerponds are much more expensive, and he’s onlystarting out, he’ll buy a small one so he will nothave to lay out lots of money. Down the road, he’llbuy a larger pond. BINGO!! The beginner has justcreated that big problem I spoke about earlier, andput his pond hobby interest in jeopardy withouteven realizing it. Many, many times, without anyoutside assistance or help, this beginner will fail.

Problem Two: The Pond DimensionsIn addition to the size of the pond, a beginnershould also take into consideration the space avail-able at the home and once it is installed, will it beright for him? Many beginners take into accountthe size; however, most forget the mature size ofthe fish they plan to stock (ie- Koi) and that theseare very long-lived fish. So the pond is an invest-ment, not just a passing interest. The next consid-eration which is most often overlooked is thefiltration. If the filter is not sufficient for theamount and size of fish, then it is inadequate forthe pond itself. This is the second biggest beginnerfailure leading to departure from the hobby. Hadour beginner known, he could have had a happyexperience with his Koi pond.

In ConclusionAgain I'll state it - the first mistake many, if notmost beginners make, is the purchase of their new pond.

If you know of anyone contemplating the purchaseof a first time pond, kindly assist them in under-standing the importance and meaning of thisarticle. Your valuable help, aid, and assistance tothe beginning hobbyist today, might prove to carry a lot of weight in your relationship with theexperienced hobbyist of tomorrow.


To become a member orrenew is easy.

Fill out the form on page 33, mail it in - andviolia youare a member!

http://www.microbelift.com/

www.kloubeckoi.com

Late in life I became a gardener. Not longafter came the Koi pond. Years passedbefore the first heron arrived. I declaredwar, but the enemy was persistent, elusiveand always hungry.

My first defense was the Scarecrow, a motion sensi-tive device staked to the ground that the internetseller claimed would scare away any heron approach-ing the pond by directing a forceful stream of waterat the offender, combined with a loud whap-whapnoise (like a lawn sprinkler that slowly advances itsrotating head when the water strikes a protrudingblade). Installing a Scarecrow is no simple task,because it must be connected to a water line. Mypond is 15 feet wide, 35 feet long (with a waterfall atone end) and partially protected by shrubbery. Ifigured I needed three Scarecrows, strategicallyplaced, which meant I had to run an undergroundhose from the nearest faucet to the first Scarecrowand then continue trenching it to the secondScarecrow and finally, around the pond to the thirdsite on the opposite side of the pond. Each Scarecrowhad an on-off switch, so I could deactivate this watercannon whenever I came near (to feed the Koi ormow the lawn). If I forgot to turn it off, it alwaysnailed me, and the grandkids loved to use it on a hotsummer day. At least I knew it worked. I couldn’twait to see the heron suffer the same fate.

Koi Keeper vs. Heron: The Final Solutionby James Damis, Cascade Koi & Goldfish Club

Finally, through my kitchen window one beautifulSunday morning I saw a big heron land on the lawn.As herons do, it walked stealthily to the pond edge,only eight feet away from the nearest Scarecrow.Nothing happened! When the heron craned its neckout over the pond and assumed its striking position, Iwalked out onto the deck. The heron took a stepback, turned and stared at me. I glared back. Hedidn’t move, so I walked across the deck toward thestairs leading to the pond. The heron flew to theother side of the pond, landed and turned around toface me. He was then only six feet away from anotherScarecrow, which was pointed directly at it, but againnothing happened. I came closer and the heron flewback across the pond, up, up and away.

Convinced that I had stupidly forgotten to reactivatethe units, I walked up to the pond and bam, it nailedme. Maybe Scarecrows scare deer away and I knowthey work on humans, but they don’t work on heronsbecause they move too slowly and they are not bigenough to trigger the motion sensors.

Gambit #2: I had heard that heron feed only fromthe water’s edge and had personally observed this


Don’t let this Heron come find your pond!

from watching heron feed at the lakes at my golf club.But, I refused to deface the beauty of my garden byputting an ugly fence around my pond. So, instead, Icleverly fashioned a net that extended 30 inchesoutward from the pond’s edge but was parallel to thepond’s surface and just a few inches above the waterlevel. Thus, no heron could reach over the net exten-sion to stab the Koi. This method yielded an unob-structed view of most of the center of the pond toenjoy my beautiful Koi. I was feeling quite smug untilI began missing some of my small Koi. That riddlewas solved when my wife reported seeing a heronland in the middle of the pond. Foiled again.

Stratagem #3: I then covered the whole surface of thepond with one of those cheap plastic-like netsthat Home Depot sells to cover fruit trees to keepbirds away. Unfortunately, those nets sink, are flimsy,difficult to work with, easily torn and must be repur-chased each year.

The Final Solution

I discovered the Astoria Net Shop on the internet andpurchased from its owner, George McMurrick, a net

that has the heft and feel that fishermen use. The netopenings are 7/8 inch square. The net is black and it floats perfectly on the surface. The Koi easily suck down the floating pellets, which are held inplace until eaten (so no fish food gets sucked in the skimmers).

The net is easy to handle, does not get tangled, blendsin with the blackness of the pond and is easily pulledto one side so you can display the pond in its fullglory at social gatherings.

You can order this net in rectangular dimensions of your choosing from the Astoria Net Shop (503-440-1493). Shortly after I installed my net, I witnessed a heron land, walk up to the pond, studythe situation for 30 seconds and fly away (presum-ably seeing the impossibility of another free lunch).That was three years ago and I haven’t had a heronvisit since. The net performs as well now as when Ifirst used it. I paid approximately 30 cents per squarefoot, which is a tad expensive, but the freedom fromworry has been well worth it.


KOISHIby Mamoru Kodama -Learn about JapaneseKoi Breeding, Farmsand the Breeders. Readthe history of Koi vari-eties and great insightsto Koi in Japan.

ABC’s of Ponds – Have a friendinterested in building a pond?Are you a beginner? Thisbeautifully illustrated hardcover book is packed withpond & water feature fundamentals plus many littleknown secrets to successfulpond keeping!

The RISE MethodWant to learn how to makeyour pond projects look morenatural? Written by Rick Bartel,international acclaimed pond builder.

Books Available on Amazon.com

www.amazon.com


Andrea Duggan needs A LOT OF PRAYERS!! Shehas a bacterial heart infection and needs yourprayers, so please keep her in your prayers. She'stoo weak for medical procedures. Our easternLong Island club member has been living withthe aftermath of Stage 4 Hodgekins for years nowand is at a critical point at this time. Her spiritnever wanes, but she needs us.

Know someone to list in our Sunshine Column -Email Carolyn Weise, [email protected]

Sunshine Column

Need to Change Youremail or Home Address?Have Questions about your Membership Status?

Contact: Barry Hixson5465 Towanda Dr.Bethlehem, PA 18017610-262-5184 or [email protected]

Renew Your MAKC Membership by printing out page 33 and mailing it to Barry.

Balance as of January 2014 $15,671.00

Income:Memberships 155.00

Total Income $155.00

Expenses:Meeting Expense 72.53Printing/Publication

2 Issues 1,600.00Total Expenses $1,672.53

Balance as of February 2014 $14,153.47

Outstanding Item:

Accounts Receivable Tri-State Koi Club 500.00

Book Balance $14,653.47

Reserve Account/Prepaid Memberships

Balance $6,409.39

Club Total Balance $21,062.86

Submitted by Anthony Vitale, New York

Treasurer’s Report

www.aquaticnutrition.com


On the Roadto a Koi Event

Send your meeting and event information to Carolyn Weise

516-640-6490 or [email protected]

Deadline April 1st for the May 2014 issue.

March 29Deep South 1st Koi & Goldfish ShowBaton Rouge, LA. Inaugural Koi & GoldfishShow in conjunction with the LSU Garden Show.

June 6–8PNKCA ConventionClackamas, Oregon, contact Tom and Kate Taylorfor more information [email protected] orsee website at http://www.pnkca.com

July 11–13Midwest Pond & Koi Society 17th AnnualKoi & Goldfish Showhttp://www.mpks.org

September 5-720th Annual ZNA Potomac Koi ShowHeld at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens, Vienna VA. http://www.znapotomac.org

September 19-21Carolina Classic Koi ShowEast Coast Koi Imports, New Hill, NChttp://carolinaclassickoishow.com

Have an upcoming Koi event, please send theinformation to [email protected]. We will beglad to include it in future articles.

Don’t forget your own MAKC Club has eventscoming up that can be found in our digitalmagazine or at www.makc.com. We always needvolunteers for meetings and shows. It is amazinghow much you can learn by helping. Takeadvantage of being an MAKC member andparticipate in the club events.

See you soon at a Koi event.

M A KC E v e n t

Saugerties Chapter Meeting

Sunday, April 27Inquiring Minds BookstoreSaugerties, New York

Contact Herb Ehrich for additional information(845) 247-7105 · [email protected]

Aquaponics Technology & Design Workshop

April 1-5, 2014Apopka, FL

Learn every aspect of commerical aquaponics,from system design to plant and fish production

to marketing and economics.

407-886-3939 • PentairAES.com


Disclaimer: MAKC and its officers assume noresponsibility for claims of advertisers or thequality/serviceability of goods offered.

MAKC Member Needs Your Help

Non-fish-eating cats, won't hurt your pondfish! - LOVING CATS NEED GOOD HOMES.Passing of spouse forces me to find homes forboth inside and outside cats. All neutered.Phone 973-390-6490 with what you are lookingfor and we can match you with your new best friend.

F O R S A L E

Remember any MAKC member can list theirKoi, pond, or related items for sale here in yourmagazine at no charge. Please contact Philiptoday if you have something for sale.

BAMBOO. Winter hardy and tropical forindoors. Thinning collection. Reasonable prices.Call Ron Altman, NY 718-442-1673 (Office) or908-658-3055 (H).

F..A..S..T.. Ads – April

F..A..S..T.. Ads Policy & DeadlinesF..A..S..T.. Ads are available FREE to MAKCmembers only; no commercial ads. Ads arelimited to 10 items and must include name,phone number, town and state. Deadline isthe 1st of each month.

Help do you have an hour or two? We need a volunteer to manage this page.Please contact

Philip Gray • [email protected]

HOUSE FOR SALE.519 Claremont Dr.Flat Rock, NC 28731

• Price: $599,000• Beds: 3 Bed• Baths: 3 Full, 2 Half Bath• House Size: 4,067 Sq Ft• Lot Size: 1.1 Acres• Year Built: 1994

http://www.wncrmls.com/wnc/maildoc/sd_Q8u1QO20130923150730.html

Contact Patricia Shub, [email protected] orphone 954-208-4600.

QUALITY SHOW KOI. Show quality Koi for sale. Need to thin out my pond [email protected].

W A N T E D

KOI. Foster Home. Large natural pond. Happy to accept your overgrown or unwanted “children.”Call Rich Menashe in Metuchen, NJ, 732-767-0720.


Aquaculture Bead

Filter Specialists . . . . . . .7, 16

Aquatic Nutrition –

Blackwater Gold–N . . . . . . .28

Books on Amazon . . . . . . . . .27

Hikari . . . . . . . . . .7, Back Cover

Kloubec Koi Farm . . . . . . . . .25

Kodama Koi Farm . . . . . . .7, 17

Long Island Fish Hospital . . .23

Matala USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Mazuri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Microbe-Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Nisei Koi Farm . . . . . . . . . . .5, 7

Pentair Aquatic

Eco-Systems, Inc. . . . . . . . .19

Quality Koi Company . . . . .5, 7

Mid-Atlantic KoiAd Index

Advertise in

Mid-Atlantic Koi!

Ad Rates from $15/issue* for

a business card ad to $300/issue*

for a full page color ad.

Reach your target audience of Koi keepers

& water gardeners each month and leave

your competition in the dust!!

Contact Philip Gray at 516-486-5163 (leave message) or e-mail:

[email protected] request information on our advertiser

packages and/or a copy of our ad rate sheet.

*With an annual 10 issue contract.

KOI. Wanted Healthy Pond Grade KOI over 10˝.Will pay reasonable prices. I have a 750,000gallon pond and will adopt any unwanted KOI.Call Joseph Pollock in Virginia at 540-788-9222.

KOI. Wanted for large deep natural pond next tosoon to be built wine tasting room in winecountry of Northern Virginia. Happy to acceptany and all Koi of any size and color. Stop by andvisit them next year when our tasting roomopens. Call Mark Malick in Purcellville, VA, 540-270-3399 (cell).

KOI BITO MAGAZINES – in good condition.Send list with asking price, or call Roger Klocke701-491-2803, E-mail at [email protected] address: Roger Klocke,4805 Meadow Creek Dr., Fargo, ND 58104.

KOI STORE EMPLOYEE. Looking for a knowledgeable Koi and pond hobbyist. Part-time, competitive pay. Outstandingemployee discounts! Call John at Blue RibbonKoi Products. 703-753-7566.

MAKC CENTRAL CHAPTER VICE-PRESIDENT. Schedule 4 to 12 meetings per year.This includes making sure that the meetingannouncement is submitted to the magazine andthe MAKC website. Plenty of advice and supportare available. Your "compensation" .... knowingthat you have given back to MAKC and yourfellow members. Please don't wait for someoneelse to step forward! MAKC is a membershiporganization. If more than one person is interested, you can share the fun! E-mail Philip Gray at [email protected] or call 516-486-5163.

MAKC WEBMASTER- Needed immediately.Update club website one to two times a month onaverage. Please E-mail Philip Gray [email protected] or call 516-486-5163.

www.makc.com

www.makc.com


Pictures to Share

What is going on in this picture? Find out in the next issue of Mid-Atlantic Koi. Paula Biles shares with you her knowledge of plant propagation in the article she wrote titled, “Divide and Conquer.”

Photo shared by Paula Biles.

Have a picture to share? Send your photos to theEditor, Carolyn Weise at [email protected].


MAKC Membership Application

We are pleased that you have inquired about membership in the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club. The clubmeets monthly at convenient regional locations in the Mid-Atlantic area and also publishes aninformative monthly magazine (bi-monthly in Nov/Dec & Jan/Feb).

Our dues are $30 per year, per family (includes $15.00 for a one-year subscription to Mid-Atlantic KoiOnline Magazine). The club year runs June 1st through May 31st of the following year. (Dues are pro-ratedper month. Those who join in January or after are also asked to join for the following year.) Join for 4 yearsfor $100 and save - $20. Overseas Membership - $40 per year. Corporate Membership $275 per year whichincludes advertising and other benefits. Call Barry Hixson at 610-262-5184 or e-mail:[email protected] for details.

Please consult the following chart for the proper amount and send your check (payable to the Mid-AtlanticKoi Club) to me, Barry Hixon, 5465 Towanda Dr., Bethlehem, PA 18017.

As soon as I receive your check, I will send you a "Welcome to MAKC" email and a list of upcoming meetingsin your area. You will also be given the date of your membership expiration. Your email will be added to ourMAKC Notice Group to allow you to receive MAKC news and up-to-date information. A great source ofinformation is our MAKC website: www.makc.com. The MAKC membership list may be made available(upon approval by the MAKC Executive Committee) for the dissemination of Koi-related information.

Welcome to MAKC! I sincerely believe you will enjoy it as much as we all do. Barry Hixson Membership Committee Mid-Atlantic Koi Club

PLEASE PRINT (You may omit any information that may be sensitive such as unlisted phone numbers or email

accounts.) LAST NAME ________________________ FIRST NAME(S) _________________________(If Applicable) CORPORATE MEMBERSHIP NAME: ______________________________________ ADDRESS ______________________________ CITY__________________ STATE _____ ZIP______TELEPHONE ______________________ E-MAIL ________________________________ OCCUPATION(S)______________________ Do you have a pond?____ Dimensions____________ Gallons________ Type filter________________Do you keep Koi or Goldfish?__________ Type______________ Size___________ How Many?______Are there any Koi related problems you need help with?_________ If so, what kind?_____________________________________________________________________________________________Do you have special talents, knowledge or interest you would be willing to share with us? _________If so, what kind? __________________________________________________________________Would you be willing to have a Koi Club meeting at your home? _______________________________SIGNATURE ____________________________ DATE ____________ AMOUNT PAID ___________

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

$42.50 $40 $37.50 $35 $32.50 $30 $27.50 $25 $22.50 $20 $17.50 $15

www.hikariusa.com/mk

mid-atlanitc koi magazine april 2014

Documents

midatlantic koi page

midatlantic koi clubvolume

koi event

ckkyour koi

koi keepers

koi herpes virus

kleinholz koi farmhealth

atlantic koithe magazine