milan_ first time visit

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francescog

Milan: Fir st Time Visit

Milan, 4 Days

Table of contents:

Guide Description 2

Itinerary Overview 3

Daily Itineraries 5

Milan Snapshot 17

http://www.nileguide.com/destination/milan/trips/milan-first-time-visit/5810700

http://www.nileguide.com/destination/milan/trips/milan-first-time-visit/5810700



Guide Description

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AUTHOR NOTE: Italy's frenetic capital of design, fashionand finance hosts a collection of must do's for the first timevisitor: The Duomo, a Gothic masterpiece and one of the largestcathedrals in the world, took some five centuries to complete.Close by is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a Belle Epoquearcade and La Scala, the famous opera house. At the Pinacotecadi Brera, one of Italy's finest galleries, you can feast on Bellini,Caravaggio, Raphael, Tintoretto and Veronese. The city's mostfamous piece of art can be seen at Santa Maria delle Grazie("Our Lady of Grace"), the famous church and Dominicanconvent, where Leonardo da Vinci's 'The Last Supper' is in therefectory of the convent. (Please remember that if you wantto see Leonardo's Last Supper, you need to book in advance,because if you don't pre-purchase tickets, you have very littlechance of being admitted to view the mural!) Finally for shopping,head for Quadrilatero d'Oro, the Golden Square, one of theworld's great shopping areas.



Itinerary Overviewthings to do

restaurants

hotels

nightlife

3

Day 1 - Milan

DAY NOTE: This is your first day in Milan so you should relaxa little and enjoy the atmosphere close to your chosen hotel.You are only minutes from one of the world's great shoppingareas known as the golden square - Quadrilatero d'Oro -bordered by Via Montenapoleone and Via Della Spiga, where thefashion Gods have their temples and within a few steps of threeiconic buildings, the Duomo, La Scala and the Galleria VittorioEmanuele II. Start at Piazza Del Duomo and admire the facadeof the cathedral, stroll through the Galleria and enter Piazzadella Scala where you will find the Museo Teatrale alla Scala.Take a light lunch at Bistrot Duomo on top of the La Rinascentedepartment store and if you still have some energy, climb thestairs to the roof of the Duomo for excellent views over the city. Afew strides away is the Palazzo Reale which houses the Museumof Contemporary Art and the Cathedral Museum. In the earlyevening take a stroll or passeggiata back to the Galleria and

enjoy a glass of prosecco, al fresco, at one of the Galleria'sclassic bars and people watch before dinner. Finally select agelato (ice cream) from the nearby Antica Gelateria del Corso toend your first day in Milan.

Starhotel RosaGrand & Expensive

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele IICafes and cute shops line the avenues

Piazza del DuomoThe city's impressive central square

Bistrot DuomoBreathtaking Duomo Panorama

Santa Maria Nascente (Duomo di

Milano)Symbol of Milan

Museo Teatrale alla ScalaHistory of Opera!

Palazzo RealeOld royal residence

Antica Gelateria del CorsoIce cream parlour and bar

Day 2 - Milan

DAY NOTE: On your second day, explore slightly further a field,not too far, as Milan's main sights are all within easy reach.The Sforzesco Castle is the first port of call followed by thePinacoteca di Brera famous for its prestigious collections of ancient and modern art. Lunch at Da Claudio and taste theMilanese-style sushi. The afternoon starts with a visit to thechurch of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore with its wonderfulfrescoes followed by a short taxi ride or metro trip to 10 CorsoComo, (a 3 minute walk from Porta Garibadli Station) the finalstop of the day. Grouped around a beautiful courtyard, this is oneof Milan's most stylish places hosting the Galleria Carla Sozzani,a 3 room hotel, café, restaurant, bookstore plus a design andfashion store.

Castello SforzescoGuided tours highlight the history and current artcollections

Castello (Il)But, is it Art?

Da ClaudioArchrival

Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero

MaggioreRenaissance church

10 Corso Como CaféNovelty Among Local Clubs & Pubs

Day 3 - Milan

DAY NOTE: Today, something a little bit different - a visit to somearchaeological remains at the Colonne di S. Lorenzo beforeheading to the Porta Ticinese, a medieval gateway to the city.Lunch at nearby Trattoria Toscana before exploring the canalarea of the city. Milan's history is inherently connected with thesystem of canals, that wind their way through the whole city.Naviglio Grande is the oldest canal, construction took place from

1177 to 1257 and the canal is some fifty kilometres in length.Originally built as a means of transporting goods, it was also usedto carry the marble blocks that were used in the constructionof the cathedral. Today amongst the old wash-houses withtheir wooden beamed roofs there are artisans shops alongside boutiques, cafés, restaurants and barges fitted out as barscreating a unique atmosphere. If you are staying in this area for



Itinerary Overviewthings to do

restaurants

hotels

nightlife

4

dinner, try Della Mole, a traditional restaurant offering great foodin an excellent location.

Colonne di S. LorenzoArchaelogical Remnants

Porta Ticinese MedievaleBeautiful gateway to the city

Trattoria ToscanaTrendy Tuscan Cuisine

Naviglio GrandeAttractive Canal That Passes Through the City

Delle MoleClose to the Canals

Day 4 - Milan

DAY NOTE: Now... I hope you bought your tickets! Milan'sgreatest piece of art, Leonardo's Last Supper, awaits you. Try andarrive 15/20 minutes before your ticket time. Take a taxi or metro(a 10 minute walk from Cadorna station) to the 15th centuryRenaissance convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Don't forgetto view the exquisite cloister by Bramante and remember youonly get 15 minutes to see this famed picture. Finally to Peck, by

taxi or metro, Milan's best gourmet shop on via Spadari, no.9 (afew minutes from Duomo station). Three floors of mouth wateringdelicacies and in the basement, a 5000 bottle wine-cellar! A greatplace to have a coffee and stock up on some Milanese specialtiesbefore heading home...Arreverderci Milano!

Santa Maria delle GrazieBramante & Leonardo in Milan

Peck

A Milanese food institution and gastronomic delight.



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Day 1 - MilanQUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: This is your first day in Milan so you should relax a little and enjoy the atmosphere close to your chosen hotel. You

are only minutes from one of the world's great shopping areas known as the golden square - Quadrilatero d'Oro - bordered by Via

Montenapoleone and Via Della Spiga, where the fashion Gods have their temples and within a few steps of three iconic buildings, the

Duomo, La Scala and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Start at Piazza Del Duomo and admire the facade of the cathedral, stroll through

the Galleria and enter Piazza della Scala where you will find the Museo Teatrale alla Scala. Take a light lunch at Bistrot Duomo on top

of the La Rinascente department store and if you still have some energy, climb the stairs to the roof of the Duomo for excellent views

over the city. A few strides away is the Palazzo Reale which houses the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Cathedral Museum. In

the early evening take a stroll or passeggiata back to the Galleria and enjoy a glass of prosecco, al fresco, at one of the Galleria's classi

bars and people watch before dinner. Finally select a gelato (ice cream) from the nearby Antica Gelateria del Corso to end your first day

in Milan.

contact:tel: +39 02 8831fax: +39 02 805 7964http://www.starhotels.com/hotel/rosa_milano/starhotels_rosa.php

location:P.za Fontana 3Milan 20122

1 Starhotel Rosa

DESCRIPTION: Part of the Star Hotels Group, Starhotel Rosais a good addition to comfort and style in Milan. The entranceto the hotel is in Via Pattari on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, close

to the Duomo. It has a large atrium with modern furniture andtastefully done rooms that combine the latest amenities withtraditional decor. It is suitable for tourists who wish to visitMilan's main attractions while staying royally in a grand andopulent setting. The area is a pedestrian precinct and is well-connected by public transport. © wcities.com

MY NOTE: Classic Hotel in great location.

more photos on Hotels.com



Day 1 - continued...

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contact:tel: +39 02 7252 4301

location:Galleria Vittorio Emanuele IIMilan 20121

2 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

DESCRIPTION: Milan's late-19th-century version of a mall is thiswonderful steel-and-glass-covered, cross-shaped arcade. The elegantGalleria is the prototype of the enclosed shopping malls that were tobecome the hallmark of 20th-century consumerism. It's safe to say thatnone of the imitators have come close to matching the Galleria for styleand flair. The designer of this urban marvel, Giuseppe Mengoni, didn't liveto see the Milanese embrace his creation: He tripped and fell from a girder a few days before the Galleria opened in 1878. His shopping mall par excellence provides a lovely route between the Duomo and La Scala andis a fine locale for watching the flocks of well-dressed Milanese -- you'llunderstand why the Galleria is called Il Salotto di Milano (the drawingroom of Milan). © Frommer's

MY NOTE: Take a coffee and just watch the fashion show!

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contact:tel: +39 02 7252 4301

location:Piazza del DuomoMilan 20121

3 Piazza del Duomo

DESCRIPTION: The gigantic central square in front of Milancathedral has always been a reference point for Milan's townplanners. It was a meeting point for important roads before andduring the Roman period. In the 4th century, it was a religiouscentre with the construction of the Basilica of Santa Tecla, andthe Baptistry of San Giovanni alle Fonti (both demolished in themid-14th century and their foundations can be seen below thespace in front of the cathedral). Since 1386, the cathedral hasbeen the religious and cultural centre of the city. Symmetricalporticoes line the longer sides (with the Arengario pavilionsbuilt in 1939 and the Royal Palace on the south side andGalleria on the north side). In the centre stands the equestrianstatue of Vittorio Emanuele II by Ercole Rosa (1878) which wascovered until a few years ago by flashing advertising signs. ©wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 02 877 120fax: +39 02 877 035

location:2 Via San RaffaeleMilan 20121

hours:Mo to Sa from 12:00 PMto 02:30 PM,Mo to Sa from07:00 PM to 10:15 PM

4 Bistrot Duomo

DESCRIPTION: In an elegant and spectacular setting (upstairs at La Rinascente overlookingthe Duomo rooftop), this restaurant delights day shoppers or pre-theatre diners with internationaldishes like Gazpacho (in summer), baked eggplant with veal meatballs, basil and tomato Sauce.Dessert highlights include Clafoutis, a cherry-flavored custard cake. © wcities.com

MY NOTE: La Rinascente, Milan's best department store.




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contact:tel: +39 02 8646 3456fax: +39 02 7202 2419http://www.duomomilano.it/

location:Piazza del Duomo, 18

Milan 20122

5 Santa Maria Nascente (Duomo di

Milano)

DESCRIPTION: Watched over by the Madonnina, thecathedral's high rose marble spires represent the city's mostfamous artistic and religious monument. The dimensions of

Christendom's third biggest church are still awe-inspiring at108m high (to the tip of the tallest spire) and 158m long. Arange of architectural styles feature: doorways are 17th century,the central balcony from the late 18th Century and the threemain upper windows early 19th-century pieces by Carlo Amati.The cathedral's vast interior overwhelms: its impressive pillars,vaults and streamlined arches enhanced by light that floodsthrough the splendid stained-glass windows and the wonderfulstatuary surrounding the naves. © wcities.com

MY NOTE: Go to the roof and see the view.

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contact:tel: +39 2 8879 2473fax: +39 2 8879 2090http://www.teatroallascala.org/it/museoscala/

location:Largo Ghiringhelli 1Milan 20121

6 Museo Teatrale alla Scala

DESCRIPTION: The Museo Teatrale alla Scala was founded in 1913,but underwent a radical restoration and was opened again in 2004. Themuseum is a music-lover's Mecca: it gathers portraits and statues of themost well-known composers, opera singers and actors. It contains rare,ancient musical instruments such as a XVII spinet with the warning words"Inexpert hand, touch me not!" painted on it. Historical memories andset designs of the Theatre are on display on the second floor. In the firstroom, it is worth pointing out the still-life of musical instruments paintedby Baschenis. The entrance of this museum is in the same building of theTheatre just on the side of the main doors. - Maria Frullini © wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 02 875672http://www.comune.milano.it/palazzoreale

location:12 Piazza del DuomoMilan 20122

7 Palazzo Reale

DESCRIPTION: The seat of government in the city wasoriginally the Palazzo del Broletto, where the municipalinstitutions were located. It became a noble residence duringthe rule of the Torriane and Visconti families, who gave it itsshape that can in part still be seen, based on a system of twocourtyards. Partially demolished to make way for the Cathedralnave, the building was refurbished after 1452 by FrancescoSforza. Used as the seat of power by the Spanish rulers, itunderwent substantial modifications until the late 18th century,in particular the extensive work by Giuseppe Piermarini.Alongside the volumes of the Palazzo there is the Arengario,seat of the Palazzo del Turismo, with its two pavilions designedin 1939 (and completed in 1956) by the architects EnricoAgostino Griffini, Pier Giulio Magistretti, Giovanni Muzio andPiero Portaluppi. Feature of interest - On the first floor of the Palazzo, there is the famous 'Sala delle Cariatidi', in thelocation of the ancient theatre destroyed by fire in 1776. Thishall is now undergoing restoration. © wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 02 7639 0904

location:4 Galleria del CorsoMilan 20122

8 Antica Gelateria del Corso

DESCRIPTION: Add this as a stop on any itinerary that brings you to the Galleria del Corso.The historical building, filled with elegant furnishings, is spread over three floors to hold the largenumber of people who come here everyday to try one of its delicious specialities, or for a cup of coffee. The Nescafé machine is a real novelty and can serve six different types of coffee. Theweekend brunch from noon-4p on Saturdays and Sundays includes American-style buffet foods,sliced meats, salads, cakes and ice creams. © wcities.com



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DAY NOTE: On your second day, explore slightly further a field, not too far, as Milan's main sights are all within easy reach. The

Sforzesco Castle is the first port of call followed by the Pinacoteca di Brera famous for its prestigious collections of ancient and modern

art. Lunch at Da Claudio and taste the Milanese-style sushi. The afternoon starts with a visit to the church of San Maurizio al Monastero

Maggiore with its wonderful frescoes followed by a short taxi ride or metro trip to 10 Corso Como, (a 3 minute walk from Porta Garibadli

Station) the final stop of the day. Grouped around a beautiful courtyard, this is one of Milan's most stylish places hosting the Galleria

Carla Sozzani, a 3 room hotel, café, restaurant, bookstore plus a design and fashion store.

contact:tel: +39 02 8846 3700http://www.milanocastello.it

location:Piazza Castello 3Milan 20121

hours:Tues-Sun 9:30am-5:30pm

1 Castello Sforzesco

DESCRIPTION: Though it's been clumsily restored many times,most recently at the end of the 19th century, this fortresslikecastle continues to evoke Milan's two most powerful medievaland Renaissance families, the Visconti and the Sforza. TheVisconti built the castle in the 14th century and the Sforza,who married into the Visconti clan and eclipsed them in power,reconstructed it in 1450. The most influential residents wereLudovico il Moro and Beatrice d'Este (he of the Sforza andshe of the famous Este family of Ferrara). After ill-advisedlycalling the French into Italy at the end of the 15th century,Ludovico died in the dungeons of a château in the Loire valley-- but not before the couple made the Castello and Milan oneof Italy's great centers of the Renaissance. It was they whocommissioned the works by Bramante and Leonardo da Vinci,and these splendors can be viewed on a stroll through the milesof salons that surround the Castello's enormous courtyard.The salons house a series of small city-administered museumsknown collectively as the Civici Musei Castello Sforzesco.

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They include a pinacoteca with works by Bellini, Correggio,and Magenta, and the extensive holdings of the Museo d'ArteAntica, filled with Egyptian funerary objects, prehistoric findsfrom Lombardy, and the last work of 89-year-old Michelangelo,his unfinished Rondanini Pietà. © Frommer's

contact:tel: +39 02 86 2913fax: +39 2 87 7962

location:16 Via BreraMilan 20121

2 Castello (Il)

DESCRIPTION: This gallery located at Via Brera, 16 was founded back in 1967. Right in the middleof artistic Milan, it secializes in modern twentieth century Italian paintings. It remains closed onSundays and is open to the public on Monday mornings but only by appointment. © wcities.com

contact:tel: +39 02 805 6857fax: +39 02 8646 2215http://www.pescheriadaclaudi

o.it/

location:Via Ponte Vetero 16Milan 20121

hours:Tu to Sa from 08:30 AM to02:30 PM,Tu to Sa from 04:00PM to 09:00 PM

3 Da Claudio

DESCRIPTION: One of Milan's oft-repeated idiosyncracies is that it is a landlocked city and yet

has the freshest fish in the country: The best catch is trucked up here from the shore every nightto chase those bankers' euros. The best place to enjoy Milan's maritime bounty without dispensinga fortune is at this Brera fish market, which becomes a popular raw bar at night. Almost everyonegoes for the mixed plate, which includes raw tuna, sea bass, salmon, red snapper, sturgeon,shrimp, prawns, and cod, or whatever else didn't sell that day. Order a plate for 10€ ($13), or asmaller portion for 8€ ($10), and enjoy it standing up at the counter (there are no seats) with a glassof prosecco, which is on the house. © Frommer's

location:15 Corso Magenta

Milan 20123

4 Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore

DESCRIPTION: This church was built in 1503 by Gian Giacomo Dolcebuono. The facade, erectedbetween 1574 and 1581, was completed in 1872 by Angelo Colla. There are three floors insidewith nineteeth century frescoes on the sides of the loggias and the naves. The internal facade alsoincludes frescoes by Simone Peterzano. In the third chapel on the left, there is a nun's choirboxmade in wood by Gian Giacomo Dolcebuono in 1500 with an extremely fine organ in the centremade in 1554 by Gian Giacomo Antegnani and painted in tempera by Francesco Medici. There arealso frescoes on the walls by Bernardino, Aurelio and Giovan Pietro Luini. Do not miss the frescoesby Bernardino Luini painted from 1522 to 1529. © wcities.com

contact:tel: +39 02 2901 3581fax: +39 02 2900 0760http://www.10corsocomo.com/

location:Via Como, 10,Milan 20154

hours:

5 10 Corso Como Café

DESCRIPTION: Found in Corso Como, one of Milan's mostfrequented and fashionable spots for night-life, this is afavourite haunt for locals as well as foreigners and models.A deliberately simplistic or minimalistic atmosphere createsa striking canvas for the artistic presentation of the delicateinternational cuisine. The food goes down well with the housedrinks and non-stop music. © wcities.com

MY NOTE: One of Milan's most stylish shops.

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Mo from 06:00 PM to 01:00AM,Tu to Fr from 12:00 PM to01:00 AM,Sa from 11:00 PMto 02:00 AM,Su from 11:00PM to 01:00 AM



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DAY NOTE: Today, something a little bit different - a visit to some archaeological remains at the Colonne di S. Lorenzo before heading to

the Porta Ticinese, a medieval gateway to the city. Lunch at nearby Trattoria Toscana before exploring the canal area of the city. Milan's

history is inherently connected with the system of canals, that wind their way through the whole city. Naviglio Grande is the oldest canal,

construction took place from 1177 to 1257 and the canal is some fifty kilometres in length. Originally built as a means of transporting

goods, it was also used to carry the marble blocks that were used in the construction of the cathedral. Today amongst the old wash-

houses with their wooden beamed roofs there are artisans shops along side boutiques, cafés, restaurants and barges fitted out as bars

creating a unique atmosphere. If you are staying in this area for dinner, try Della Mole, a traditional restaurant offering great food in an

excellent location.

location:39 Corso di Porta TicineseMilan 20123

1 Colonne di S. Lorenzo

DESCRIPTION: In front of the Basilica of San Lorenzo, there is a squarewith a row of columns on either side which were taken from a monumentalbuilding dating from the 2nd century B.C. and repositioned. Up until 1935,the space between the church and columns was entirely occupied by oldhouses abutting onto the façade of the church itself. Despite the plans toconserve this ancient urban fabric, the renovations led to the demolition of

the old houses and the isolation of the monument. © wcities.com

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location:Corso di Porta TicineseMilan 20123

2 Porta Ticinese Medievale

DESCRIPTION: The ancient Porta Ticinese gate, part of the12th-century city walls built after the destruction wrought byFrederick Barbarossa, is the only remaining gate along withthe arches of Porta Nuova. The present state of the gatereflects the work of Camillo Boito (1861-65) who isolated thesurviving structures and completed the missing parts withhis own interpretation. Feature of interest: Starting from theancient gate and moving out of the city, one finds Corso diPorta Ticinese, originally a fortified wall, part of the extensionof the city fortifications commissioned by Azzone Visconti inthe 14th century. The original character of this district, onedestined to craftsmen's workshops, can still be seen in thebuildings, featuring a narrow, tall street front and an extensiveseries of inner courtyards and service buildings further back. ©wcities.com

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contact:

tel: +39 02 8940 6292fax: +39 02 8940 9840http://www.trattoriatoscana.net/

location:58 Corso di Porta TicineseMilan 20123

hours:Mo to Sa from 07:00 PM to02:00 AM

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Trattoria Toscana

DESCRIPTION: Do not be surprised by the dark and emptyentrance. The party is not there. Keep going ahead passingin front of the kitchens, the bathrooms and make a sharp turnbetween the waiters. All of a sudden a large room will appear where there are restaurant tables, and the courtyard whereyou can finally have a cocktail. Although it isn't a very largeplace, Trattoria Toscana is very charming and makes you forgetyou are in Milan. In the center of the courtyard is an immenseplant with tables all around it, plus chairs and the bar where thepizzetta anti-pastas and other cold first courses are served, asis compulsory at this hour. Always very crowded, it has never

lost its image as a trendy vogue bar. It is also very popular withmodels. © wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 02 8940 9971fax: +39 02 8940 0181http://www.navigliogrande.mi.it/

location:Alzaia Naviglio Grande 4Milan 20144

4 Naviglio Grande

DESCRIPTION: Naviglio Grande was one of the first canals inMilan and was one of the most important engineering worksto be carried out in Lombardy during the Middle Ages. For centuries it played a fundamental role in the city's economy byconnecting it to the great canal network in Lombardy. Exitingthe Darsena along the towpath of the Naviglio Grande, youwill see the large residential buildings with fenced courtyards

from the early 1900s, arts and crafts workshops, old barges(now turned into bars), the many areas that are undergoingurban renewal, and, further out, the country villas of the nobility(particularly between Abbiategrasso and Robecco sul Naviglio).Make a quick stop near Vicolo Lavandai, the ancient shelter with wooden beams that covers the old communal wash-house,a quaint location that is one of the relatively few remaindersof Milan's distant past. Check website for more details. ©wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 02 832 3810 / +39 338788 9407fax: +39 02 839 5082http://www.ristorantedellemole.com/

location:Via Scoglio di Quarto 3Milan 20136

5 Delle Mole

DESCRIPTION: The area around the canals has been one of Milan's most popular night spotsfor years now. The area is near the historical Porta Ticinese and the columns of S. Lorenzo, andis always filled with a stream of people out for the night. This is a traditional restaurant, with air-

conditioning, a summer garden and a boat. You can eat well here and then go out into the chaoticclimate of the surrounding area. The cuisine is very traditional, with good fish or meat-baseddishes, and excellent first courses and starters. To sum up, this restaurant offers good food in anexcellent location. © wcities.com



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DAY NOTE: Now... I hope you bought your tickets! Milan's greatest piece of art, Leonardo's Last Supper, awaits you. Try and arrive

15/20 minutes before your ticket time. Take a taxi or metro (a 10 minute walk from Cadorna station) to the 15th century Renaissance

convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Don't forget to view the exquisite cloister by Bramante and remember you only get 15 minutes to

see this famed picture. Finally to Peck, by taxi or metro, Milan's best gourmet shop on via Spadari, no.9 (a few minutes from Duomo

station). Three floors of mouth watering delicacies and in the basement, a 5000 bottle wine-cellar! A great place to have a coffee and

stock up on some Milanese specialties before heading home...

Arreverderci Milano!

contact:tel: +39 02 8942 1146http://www.cenacolovinciano.it/

location:2 Piazza Santa Maria delleGrazieMilan 20123

1 Santa Maria delle Grazie

DESCRIPTION: Commissioned by Ludovico di Moro anddesigned by Guiniforte Solari, this building was intended as amausoleum for the Sforzesco dynasty, in which the remainsof the duke and his wife, Beatrice d'Este, as well as othersconnected with the family, were to be laid to rest. The adjoiningDominican convent's cloister and sacristy were later renovated

by Bramante. The refectory walls are home to Leonardo daVinci's(1452-1519) Last Supper. Bramante's façade is of particular interest as is the gallery's terracotta ornamentation,which became one of the dominant motifs in northern ItalianRenaissance architecture. Guests must book in advance. Oneof the most famous paintings The Last Supper is housed here.Painted by Leonardo Da Vinci, it is a very complex undertakingand hence a lot of rough sketches were made he finalized theunbelievable painting, which had its huge share of bad luck allthe way. © wcities.com

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MY NOTE: Don't forget to book your tickets!

contact:tel: +39 02 8023161fax: +39 02 860408

http://www.peck.it/

location:Via Spadari 9Milan Lombardy 20123

hours:Monday: 15.30 - 19.30,Tuesday to Friday : 09.15 -19.30, Saturday 8.45 - 19.30

2 Peck

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:There is a unique system if you want to buy something at Peck, a bit like thesometimes baffling procedure for ordering a coffee in Italy! Go to any counter,tell them what you want and they'll give you a receipt, go to another counter if ittakes your fancy, order and collect another receipt, when you have finished takeyour receipts to one of the cash desks. Then retrace your steps and go back tothe counters you ordered from and the staff will have beautifully gift wrapped your purchases ready for you to take away.

DESCRIPTION: Francesco Peck a ham-seller from Prague set up shop in Milan in 1883. Some 25years later he sold his shop to Eliseo Magnaghi who managed the store for nearly 50 years beforeselling it on to the Grazioli family in 1956. Today it is owned by the Stoppani brothers, who boughtthe store in 1970.Similar in some ways to Fauchon in Paris or perhaps a mini version of Harrod's foodhall in London,for the Milanese however, this is foodie heaven. For hams and cheeses, for pastas and sauces, for conserves and preserves, for oils and vinegars, you won't know which way to look first!Don't miss the basement, with its 5000 bottle wine-cellar!© NileGuide



Milan Snapshot

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Local Info

Milan is divided into 9 distinct zones thatradiate out from the Historical Center(Zona1) to the periphery. They are identifiednumerically by the local council, but alsohave names, and each zone includes many

different neighborhoods and quarters.Although every area is not listed here, eachplays its own special role in the history of Milan; from theimportantissimo historicalcenter to the modern"dormitory quarters" of San Siro.

Centro Storico& Brera

The Historical Center incorporates thefashion district(called theQuadrilaterod'Oro), Castello Sforzesco, theglorious Piazza della Scala, the invitingneighborhood of Brera, and other areas of historical and commercial interest. Many

people actually live in the city center, butthey find that there are some disadvantagesinvolved in living there, e.g. lack of parkingspaces, supermarkets and dry cleaner's,and the rent can be incredibly high. On theupside, there is always plenty to do: thereare many excellent restaurants and barswithin walking distance, and a summer'sevening stroll through this area is absolutebliss.

Corso Buenos Aires

Northeast of the center are some well-known streets which are popular with

residents, businessmen and visitors: CorsoVenezia and its intersecting roads are linedwith noble families' palaces; in some casesthese are still used as residences, in others,they have been converted into luxuryoffices. The gardens of Porta Venezia makeup a small, enclosed park, which is one of the most beautiful in Milan. Further north,is Corso Buenos Aires, one of the largestcommercial main roads, which is easy toreach and is well-served by the metro; ithas a cosmopolitan feel, many immigrantslive there, and because of this, there aremany different ethnic restaurants.

Magenta

Corso Magenta begins at Porta Magentaand leads into the center; thiscorsois"healthy and wealthy": one half has hardlyany shops, but many gorgeous palazziwith exquisite, hidden gardens, while theother half has a multitude of shops, some of which are very prestigious. There are also

several interesting churches and museumsin this area. Thecorso is well served bypublic transport, and it has lots of trafficand few parking spaces during the day, butbecomes a great deal more peaceful atnight-time.

Ticinese-NavigliSouthwest of Milan stands the Ticinese-Navigli area, which is a mixture of old andnew. Many of the original residents(or their descendants) still live in Ticinese and thereare manycase di ringhiera- apartmentswith wrought-iron balconies that faceinwards. Blue-collar workers lived hereat the beginning of the 20th Century. Theapartments have undergone renovationand some now house architects, artists,fashion designerset al. This area is full of bars and shops selling new and vintageclothes, antiques, furniture, as well as

basic necessities. TheNavigli, the city'scanal system, includes two canals: theNaviglio Grande and the Naviglio Pavese. Ashort way down the Naviglio Pavese is ViaChiesa Rossa, characterized by the waveof immigration which took place here in the50s and 60s. The area by the Navigli teemswith nightclubs, bars, and pubs, whichmeans that it is always lively and chaotic,especially during the summertime. TheNaviglio leads to theautostrada, or highway,for Genova. The Assago complex, wherethe Datchforum is situated, can be seen onthe A7 highway.

Amendola-Fiera& San Siro

Another district that is famous for itsexhibitions and trade fairs is Amendola-Fiera; this is a residential area as well, withmany tree-lined streets and tallpalazzi,or large residential buildings. Most of thesepalazzi were constructed after 1930,and so they are still in good condition.San Siro is famous for its Stadio San Sirofootball ground, an important spot for fans of the AC Milan team. Porta Vittoria&Porta Romana Vittoria is also a popular residential area that has a working/middle-

class feel; Viale Lazio(one of the streetsin this area) is predominantly made upof residential, leafy avenues; Corso Lodireverberates with the hum of commercialactivity; Viale Umbria is residential andCorso XXII Marzo is filled with shops. Somefashion houses have their headquartersin Vittoria, around Viale Umbria andCorso Lodi. There is still some industrial

activity to the east, on Viale Mugello andtowards Viale Molise(the large complexof Macello Comunale) and further out,and nearby is the famous wholesalemarket, Mercato Ortofrutticolo. Further east, between Forlanini's verdant park andTaliedo(heading towards Linate Airport), istheIdroscalo, a large dock filled with water where you can swim, sunbathe, and sail.

Città Studi

Città Studi is located in the east of Milan and as the name suggests, is theUniversity district, home to the Polytechnicand several chemistry, biology andpharmaceuticals departments. Many of the buildings here were constructed in the1920s, 1930s and 1940s and the overallfeel is that of a charming residential areawith trees on every street.

IsolaTo the north of the city lies Isola, located

just behind the Stazione Centrale, other zones in the vicinity are home to largehospital complexes, such as OspedaleMaggiore di Milano Policlinico and CTO.

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History

Milan:

Milan's history is full of wealth, intrigue andconflict. Throughout its existence, Milan has

known failure and incredible success andhas faced both with a spirit and verve thatmakes this city one of the most famous inthe world.

The first known inhabitants of Milan dateback to the Bronze Age; the Gauls settledhere in the 4th Century BCE and mayhave given the area the name"place inthe middle". The Romans conquered thearea in 222 BCE and gave it a similar name,"Mediolanum", and it became anautonomous province(Municipium) under the control of Rome. Its importance grew

considerably during the Imperial Age.Thanks to its geographical position at thecenter of the Padana Plain, merchantsand travelers would stop here en-route tothe north of the Italian Peninsula, and thecity became an important military defenseagainst the barbarians who attacked fromnorthern Europe. By 286 CE, Milan wassignificant enough to be declared the



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capital of the Western Roman Empireby Emperor Diocletian, who remainedin the Eastern Empire while his westerncounterpart, Maximianus, moved hisresidence to Milan. Halfway through the4th Century it became the second city of the Roman Empire, after Rome. In 313CE, the Emperor Constantine issued the

Edict of Milan, which freedom of religionto Christians in the empire. Traces of theRoman Empire can be found in places suchas Piazza Cordusio.

Although Milan became less important asthe Roman Empire declined, and due toits northern position, suffered greatly frominvasions by the Visigoths in 402 CE, Attilathe Hun in 452 CE, and the Ostrogoths in539 CE. In 569 CE, the city was conqueredby the Longobards, from which the regionof Lombardy gets its name. Milan's rebirthbegan when Charlemagne conquered thecity in 774 CE and took the new title"Kingof the Lombards". Milan became anautonomous city in the 12th Century andtrade prospered, due to its key positionin the Po Valley and on the importantroutes from southern Italy to the Alps. Asa result of Milan's wealth, importance andexpansion, a new wall with six gatewayswas built and some of these gates arestill visible today. The city built a systemof canals(navigli) in the 12th and 13thCenturies, destined for defensive andagricultural purposes, which still defines thecity's physiognomy today.

In the 15th century, power passed from theVisconti Signoria to the Sforza Signoria.The economy boomed, especially in termsof crafts, trade and agriculture. Architecturaladditions at this time include the OspedaleMaggiore(today the seat of the StateUniversity), the Lazzaretto(which holdsthe Rotonda della Besana and whichis an open air cinema in the summer),and Castello Sforzesco, a listed buildingwhich exhibits works by Bramante andFilarete. Also of great historic importance isLeonardo da Vinci'sThe Last Supper(1498),a fresco at the Convent of Maria delle

Grazie.In 1499, the French King Louis XII tookMilan, and for the next thirty-five years, thecity found itself at the center of continuousbattles between France and the Sforzafamily. When the incumbent duke of theSforza family suddenly died in 1535,the city passed to Charles V Habsburgof the Holy Roman Empire. Charles V

passed the duchy of Milan to his sonPhilip II, and Spanish rule continued untilthe beginning of the 18th Century. Thearchitectural highlight of this century wasthe construction of the Spanish Walls,which today surround Milan's historicalcenter. The city's power and prosperitydeclined under foreign rule, and in 1630,

the Black Death struck the city and greatlyreduced the population. Finally, after theWar of the Spanish Succession, in 1706the Savoys of Austria took possessionof the city. Milan began a new phase of expansion, characterized by fiscal andecclesiastic reform, which culminatedin exceptionally rich cultural activityaround 1770. Milan fell under NapoleonBonaparte's control, and the populationboomed. It became the capital of theCisalpine Republic and reaffirmed itscultural and economic importance. As partof Napoleon's architectural and urbanization

plans thecerchia dei bastoni ring roadwas built around the historic center. Other new roads were also built following Paris'system; these are still used today.

The Austrians again took control of Milanin the 19th Century. Neither the educatedmiddle classes nor the lower classes werehappy about Austrian rule and in 1848 therewas a popular insurrection, which endedwith much bloodshed. The Kingdom of Italywas proclaimed in 1861.

A great deal of the city center dates backto the beginning of the 20th Century, when

many areas were redesigned and rebuilt.The city is filled with Fascist"minimalist"houses in impressive tree-lined avenues,workers' houses, and"dormitory districts"which were immense apartment blocks withno real shops or services nearby. Many of these estates soon fell into disrepair.

Fortunately, Milan is being transformedfrom an ugly duckling into a beautiful swan.Economic revival has made it a rich andinteresting city. The"moral capital" of Italyis very different from all the artistic citiesdotted around the country. It is the center of economic activity in Italy; the country's

Stock Exchange is based here. Milan'sfame is also boosted by its role in theworld of fashion, by the presence of manyindustries, its high-tech service sector, andits cultural innovation. Most of Italy's pressare situated here. One of the major TVnetworks- the largest private network inItaly- has its headquarters at the gates of Milan.

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Hotel Insights

Milan:

Milan is without doubt the city of fashion,shopping and business. Famous fashion

streets such as Via Montenapoleone, Viadella Spiga and Corso Emmanuele II alsohave elegant, luxurious and expensivehotels.

Centro storico

In the centro storico, or the historic center of the city, there are several options for those who want to be close to all theshopping and historical sights located indowntown. These hotels range from theaffordable to the more pricey, boutiquehotels. The popular Italian chain, JollyHotels, has a lovely branch near the

Duomo- Jolly Hotel President, which hasall the comforts and is quite modern.The American chain, Hyatt, also offersaccommodation near the Duomo- the ParkHyatt Milan with ultra-modern facilitiesand first-class customer service. If you'relooking for something smaller and unique,try the Hotel Gran Duca di York, which ishalf new construction, half 18th-centuryconstruction.Brera

There are several different areas in Milanthat hold the majority of the hotels, such asIsola and Brera. The well-heeled area of Brera is close to the center, the galleries,and sophisticated boutiques. If you wantto stay here, you might choose l'AnticaLocanda Solferino, a small hotel which hasretained all the charm of old Milan. Anotherdelightful, and expensive, stop for lodgingis the incredible Bvlgari Hotel, owned by thefamed jeweler Bulgari. If you are travelingto Brera by metro then you should alight atLanza and Moscova on the red line(MM2),or Cairoli on the green line(MM1).

Ticinese- Navigli A very lively area, theNavigli canals run through the district,and jazz bars, clubs and restaurants linethe banks, while on Saturdays there is awonderful street market. This is definitelythe place to stay if you want to socializeand see the more hip, alternative side of Milan. You might want to stay at the AristonHotel, at the bottom of Via Torino: a three-star hotel decorated with ecological andhypoallergenic materials, where smokingis prohibited. There are many small hotels




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spread out along the Navigli. Some of theseare further from the center, such as the ArtHotel Navigli- very convenient for thosewho come from the autostrada dei Fiori or Liguria.Amendola-Fiera

This area has many hotels for bothbusinessmen and tourists, a lot of these

hotels are less expensive but are easy toreach by train, tram and metro; bookingis advisable, during important eventsthese hotels are generally full. Manyhotels are to be found in one of the mostresidential areas of Milan, close to theFiera's pavilions. The Fiera is Milan's TradeFair and the surrounding areas are alwaysvery crowded and filled with traffic. Thehotels here are frequented by thousands of people who use the pavilions and standsto show their wares. If you head towardsCorso Vercelli, there are two good hotels:Hotel Metrò at Corso Vercelli, 6 and CapitolWorld Class Hotel on the corner of ViaCimarosa and Corso Vercelli. The MilanMarriott in the commercial area of Milan isseen as a safe bet for many tourists.

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Restaurants Insights

Milan:

Milan may be famous for its shopping,trading, and amazing designers, but it isalso a great place to enjoy a good meal.There are many ethnic restaurants,trattorieand pizzerias in the city, and during thesummer months, it is not unusual to seegroups of friends enjoying their pizzaMargherita as they sit outside under whiteparasols.

From after World War II until the 1960s,mass migration prompted many southernItalians to move north, towards theindustrialized cities. Some of them decidedto open simpletrattorie(traditional style,family-operated restaurants), offering thecuisine of their hometowns, which weremainly in Tuscany and Southern Italy. Anumber of these restaurants grew in quality

over the years, transforming themselvesinto excellent and often outstandingrestaurants: places such as TrattoriaToscana(book in advance in order tosample their tasty pasta dishes or fresh fishrecipes) and the mythical Antica TrattoriaMilano which opened a few years after theend of the Second World War and servesgood, hearty foodalla Milanese.

Pizzerias are popular in Milan, manyserving pizzas cooked in wood-fired ovens,giving the dough a delicious smoked taste.Some of the pizzerias have traditionalchecked tablecloths, outdoor seating, andpaper tablecloths and provide you withpencils to amuse yourself while waiting for

your pizza or for your bill. A good option isthe Di Gennaro, a popular pizzeria locateddowntown, or for fresh fish Il Sambuco is asure thing. If you are in search of Italianaltacucina, or high cuisine, look no further thanthe acclaimed Giannino, although it's pricescan be high as well.

A wonderful view of the city can be seenfrom Bistrot Duomo, a great place to try if you want a quick snack and cappuccinowhile shopping or a more substantialmeal before going on to the cinema. It islocated at the top of the stylish Rinascentedepartment store, which gives you

another reason to visit! Another marvelousrestaurant find is Savini, situated nearby inthe breath-taking Galleria Vittorio EmanueleII. This restaurant is often thought of as oneof the best in Milan, and though the pricesare high, it is worth a visit if only to enjoysome old-world charm and steep yourself inMilanese elegance.

In the 1980s and 1990s a new waveof immigration brought thousands of people from nearby developing countries,which led to the growth of the best ethnicrestaurant network in Italy. In Milan you'llfind restaurants serving delights fromalmost every country: from Sri Lankato Brazil(excellent Brazilian cuisine isto be found in Ristorante Rio's), Koreato Senegal. In the last couple of yearsJapanese cuisine has rocked the city; Yumeis a testimony to this- it is the place to cometo have a truly Japanese experience.

There is no better way to round off a mealthan to stroll through the central streetsof Milan eating gelato and watching theworld go by, especially if it is a warmsummer evening. Try Marghera wheredelicious gelato and desserts are sold

and there are often long lines(always agood sign); or you could try the excellentGelateria Ecologica, which has beenmaking natural gelato(without artificialcolors or preservatives) since the 1970s.

Bologna:

There is no denying that Bologna is notedfor its academic culture; the presence

of one of the world's oldest universitieshere is testament to this fact, but thereare also many other cultural aspects of which Bologna can be proud. Its cuisine,for example, never fails to delight visitorsto the city: it has a culinary tradition whichsuccessfully manages to combine thetraditional and the modern while never

sacrificing creativity. For this reason,Bologna is known as"La Grassa", or the FaOne.

Puff pastry dishes are extremelycharacteristic of Bolognese cuisine.Other typical dishes include the famous,aromaticmortadella, tinytortellini in stockand pale yellowtagliatelle inragù(meatsauce)- which is a very popular home-cooked dish.

These tempting, fragrant dishes are alwaysaccompanied by excellent regional winesincluding Barbera, Bianco, Cabarnet

Sauvignon, Merlot, Pignoletto, Pinot biancoRiesling italico, Lambrusco, Sangiovese,Albana and Trebbiano Doc.

On April 16, 1972, an unusual taleabouttagliatelle was recorded. Apparently, astrand of the pasta was made, measured bexperts and found to be 8mm when cookedThis was worked out to be a decimalfraction(12,270) of the height of the Torredei Asinelli(dei Asinelli Tower). A model of the strand of pasta was kept in the archivesof the Chamber of Commerce. Many other bizarre stories such as this one have beenrecorded about the legendary Bolognesesauce.

According to popular legend,tortellini wasinvented by a cook who was so enchantedafter having seen Venus's navel, that hedecided to attempt to reproduce it withhis own hands. This legend is echoed ina poem by Giuseppe Ceri entitled VenusNavel in which the last verse tells of across-eyed man from Bologna who wasinspired to maketortellini after having seenVenus's navel!

Porta Piera The historic city center isfull of pubs, pastry shops, ice cream

parlors and small restaurants which serveup traditional dishes in a friendly, rusticenvironment. These include Belle Arti andAl Caminetto d'Oro are located a stone'sthrow from Piazza XVIII Agosto. The citycenter is also home to numerous expensiverestaurants which are known throughout thecountry, particularly I Carracci where youcan dine onhaute cuisine surrounded by




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beautiful frescoes by the Caracci brothersthemselves. If you take a walk down ViaIndipendenza, one of the most well-knownstreets in the city, you will eventually reachthe Ristorante Diana. Not far from here,down a side street off Via Indipendenza,you will find Franco Rossi. For great ethniccuisine, and close to the train station if

you're near just for a stopover, try Ru Yi for Chinese or the Piedra del Sol for Mexican.

Porta Stiera One of the most popular ethnic restaurants in the city is India, whichalso has another restaurant in Fiesole, near Florence.

Porta Ravegnana Not far from the touristsights, Pappagallo- which is famousthroughout Italy- is situated near the historictowers. There are plenty of pizzerias inBologna, but it is safe to say that pizzas arenot a big specialty here. As pizza is part of the southern culinary tradition, it tends to be

more popular down south. Pizzerias in thecity include Il Doge and Piedigrotta, bothnear Piazza Maggiore.

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Nightlife Insights

Milan:

Art& Culture Milan has plenty to offer interms of great entertainment, culture andart… Need a little persuasion? The cityhas the famous Pinacoteca di Brera(theBrera Art Gallery) and the Museo Cenacolo

Vinciano, which houses artefacts relating tothe Leonardo Da Vinci'sLast Supper as wellas the famous fresco itself.

There are a host of museums spreadout all over the city. It would take along time to explore all of them; theMuseo Nazionale della Scienza e dellaTecnologia(Museum of Science andTechnology) is a definite must for boffinsand future Einsteins, and will take a goodtwo hours to see everything. If you onlyhave time to visit the city center, thereare plenty of museums to see; in fact,there is a circuit of five museums known

as the"Museums of the Center". Thesemuseums cover everything from the Revivalperiod(Museo del Risorgimento, Museumof the Risorgimento) to contemporaryhistory, stopping at the Museo di Milano,Museum of the History of Milan. PiazzaDuomo itself has the Duomo Museum, filledwith tapestries, stained glass and clericalvestments.

Milan is rich with history, and close to thecenter stands the Castello Sforzesco,which has interesting archaeological andnumismatic collections. Again, this can bequite time-consuming, but you can takeadvantage of the gorgeous park behind tosit and have a picnic before pressing on.

There are also two private homes(PalazzoBagatti Valsecchi and Museo Poldi Pezzoli),perhaps not quite as grand as the Castlebut just as interesting, which have beenturned into museums and display textiles,furnishings and paintings.

If you prefer art, there are many artgalleries here, such as the PinacotecaAmbrosiana, the Civica Galleria d'ArteModerna, and the Padiglione d'ArteContemporanea. In these museums, youare bound to find paintings, sculpturesand sketches to suit your tastes andyou will always find a new exhibition

somewhere.Theatre& Music

If you are more interested in the theater and opera, one name springs to mind:the world-famous Scala; but the city hasmany other theaters, offering hundreds of shows. The principle theaters include: thetraditional Teatro San Babila, the PiccoloTeatro, founded by Strehler, and the TeatroFranco Parenti, which has devoted recentseasons to European culture. Milan hasalso recently rediscovered its passionfor ballet and big-name musicals, suchasSingin' in the Rain,The Sound of Musicand the eternalRocky Horror Show. Manyof these are staged at the Teatro VentaglioNazionale and Teatro Ventaglio Smeraldo.

Milan is a city of music, too. If you likeclassical music, then the Scala is hometo a major symphony orchestra. Both theConservatorio and the Chiostro host lyricalconcerts. Jazz and Blues can be heardwafting down the Navigli canal from placessuch as Scimmie, home to modern jazz.For the more youthful, there are lots of discotheques, often playing live music, andmany of the stadiums outside the city areused for major concerts.

Cinema

Cinema is also very popular in Milan; thecenter of town is filled with multi-screens,which are always busy. There are alsomultiplexes on the outskirts(with muchbetter parking facilities than the center) thatshow blockbusters, but there are also manyindependents that show original language

and experimental films, and these cinemashave a charm and a décor all their own!

Nightlife

Milan has a lively, dynamic atmosphere dayand night. The most crowded and trendiestnightspots are in the Brera, Ticinese andNavigli districts. Most of the fashionable

bars are in Ticinese. The Navigli area isconsidered by some to be slightly retro,but is still adored by many; filled with lotsof"boho" bars, it is just the place to go witha group of friends or in the company of youparamour. Brera and Isola are known asMilan's original hotspots; every bar here isfantastic. Glamor oozes from every door and this is a great area for an evening strolThere is a huge amount of choice when itcomes to clubs, discos and bars. Thursdayare best at De Sade, Friday is the day to goto Shocking Club and Hollywood is cool antime, any day!

Milan is so cosmopolitan that it hassomething for everyone; you are stronglyadvised to go and explore this incrediblecity.

Bologna:

Bologna is a city which has developedalong fairly harmonious lines – obviouslywith its fair share of problems andcontradictions – in terms of developingappropriate architectural structures andbuildings to suit its citizens' way of life andrecreational needs.

The city has many things going for it: it isstrategically located on the road networkwhich links the north to the south, it is acultural center and home of the oldestuniversity in Europe, it is the industrialcapital of the Pianura Padana region andit is removed from the chaos of the capitaland the large Northern industrial cities,which means it is not paralyzed by trafficproblems. It is easy to get around on foot,by bicycle, on a bus, a scooter and in acar(although this is not recommended for getting around the historic city center).

This small, ancient, carefully-preserved

city is full of churches, museums, theatersand thousands of other hidden treasures.It isthe place to come if you want tototally immerse yourself in culture. Itis also the city of the famous carnivalmask"Dr. Balanzone", of raucous students,of markets and fairs, and oftortelliniandmortadella. In short, good food andentertainment are never hard to find here.




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Bologna's Taverns In 1300, Bolognawas already one of the most denselypopulated cities in Europe, and containedaround 150 taverns. This impressivefigure probably had a lot to do with themassive influx of students of all nationalitieswho came here to study at its prestigious

university. The cream of European youthwould visit these taverns to sit around andhave long discussions, while munchingon sausages andmortadella and drinkingcopious amounts of wine. They would cometo sing theGaudeamus Igitur and other student songs, to be ironic and irreverent,sometimes even scurrilous in their attitudetowards authority, the clergy and their professors. Students, artists, hardeneddrinkers, and famous intellectuals(such asOlindo Guerrini and Giosuè Carducci) alikecould be found in these taverns and barsevery day.

Between the two world wars, many of thesetaverns disappeared, but the Bolognesestill retained a penchant for drinking andsocializing. Today, there are over 200taverns, wine bars, beer gardens and pubsin the city. One of the most traditional andcharacteristic taverns is the Osteria delSole, while the oldest are probably Osteriada Mario and Osteria della Fondazza whichboth have a very simple charm.

However, there are also several tavernswhich have decided to go upmarket andbecome refined and elegant; these havetransformed themselves into rustic-stylerestaurants, such as Osteria PiazzaGrande, Osteria dei Poeti, Osteria delBrancaleone, Osteria Santa Caterina andOsteria dello Scorpione.

The pedestrian zone on Via del Pratello istraditionally an extremely popular meetingplace. It is situated away from the hustleand bustle of the traffic and is often thescene of shows and seasonal markets.Characterized by its low doorways andstreets paved in stone, the area is hometo a number of pubs and bars includingBirreria del Pratello, Monastero, Mutenye,

Il Rovescio, as well as social, cultural andrecreational groups such as Circolo Paveseand also several bars which have managedto maintain the old-fashioned charm of working-class pubs such as Barazzo andOsvaldo.

A couple of meters away is the beautifulPiazza San Francesco on which standsthe Gothic church of the same name. In

front this is the Bar De' Marchi- the sort of place where you can still play cards andchallenge veteran players to a game.

In the university district, there are numerouspubs which are always full of young people,who flock here in the late afternoon to takeadvantage of the happy hour during which

they drink and chat. At the two oppositeends of Via Zamboni, there is an Irish pub-Clauricane Irish Pub- and an English pub-The Lord Lister's English Pub. Also on ViaZamboni is Caffè del Museo which offersone of the most popular happy hours in thecity every Thursday night.

On Via delle Belle Arti, you will find anItalian-style pub- Contavalli. On Via BorgoSan Pietro stands the Corto Maltese,a"discopub" that is always very busy andstays open until late and Le Stanze(delTenente), an elegant cocktail bar housedinside the Palazzo Bentivoglio. Finally, on

Via Mascarella you will find Naked- a small,alternative pub which presents a differentDJ every night, the more elegant BravoCafé and Cantina Bentivoglio- a wine bar serving food that has been hosting live jazzperformances every night for the last tenyears.

Music 18th and 19th century music inBologna is associated with great figuressuch as Father Martini, Gioachino Rossini,Richard Wagner(who became an honorarycitizen of Bologna), Ferruccio Busoniand Ottorino Respighi. Antonio Bibienaleft the city his masterpiece – the TeatroComunale, which was inaugurated on May26, 1763 with the performance ofIl Trionfodi Clelia. Melodramas have been stagedin this magnificent theater from the 18thCentury through to the present day. Therepertoire of opera and symphonies at theTeatro Comunale, as well as the work of the Conservatory and the Bologna Festivalhave kept the city's passion for classicalmusic very much alive.

However, Bologna also has a strongattraction to jazz, and many famousinternational jazz musicians have graced its

stages: from Chet Baker, Steve Grossmanand Bill Frisell to Richard Galliano. TheBologna jazz circuit covers a number of pubs and bars that are convinced thatgood wine and good music should gohand in hand. These include CantinaBentivoglio, Chet Baker Jazz Club andOsteria dell'Orsa.

Bologna is also the home of many greatsingers. It has always been an importantcenter for pop music, and has seen artistssuch as Francesco Guccini and Lucio Dallaas well as many other groups and youngbands rise up out of obscurity and makethe big time. There are several clubs which

although not overly spacious, have alwayshosted pop concerts, such as Il Covo andOfficina Estragon.

Cinema In this century, the EmiliaRomagna region has shown itself to be

– in the words of film historian RenzoRenzi –"the land of cinema". Many famousdirectors have worked and produced their best work here in Emilia Romagna andBologna. These include luminaries suchas Michelangelo Antonioni, Pupi Avati,Bernardo Bertolucci and Federico Fellini.

Bologna therefore became an importantcenter for cinematographic culture. Thiswas further strengthened in the 1960s and1970s with the founding of the CinemaCommission(by Renato Zanghieri) and theinstitution of the DAMS – a degree coursebased on contemporary arts, music anddrama, with particular reference to cinema.

This cinematographic culture is of courseprovided for the benefit of the public.Bologna probably has the highest number of passionate cinema-goers in the wholecountry – it definitely has the largestnumber of cinemas. This is probablypartially due to the activities of the Cineteca

Communale which attempted to promotecinema-going with the construction of amajor cinema – Il Lumière- which showedre-runs of an extensive range of bothclassical and contemporary classics for people to re-discover.

The Cineteca Communale also organizes avariety of festivals. These include:CinemaRitrovato- an open-air summer festivalwhich screened masterpieces of silentcinema to the accompaniment of livemusic,Future Film Festival which,since a few years ago has been takingplace annually. This festival details

new cinematographic technologies anddevelopments in the world of animation. Acouple of major non-commercial cinemasin Bologna which are worth a visit areil Roma and Adriano. The latter alsoshows a cycle of films in their originallanguage entitledManiamerica. The MedusMulticinema is a futuristic, multi-screenedcinema which predominantly features




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Hollywood blockbusters. Its brand-newrooms offer extreme comfort and the bestnew technologies with regard to sound andpicture quality.

Theatre Theatre is very popular inBologna: the university hosts variousinitiatives, there are numerous theatre

schools, the repertoires are varied andthe public is enthusiastic. Many interestingevents and meetings are organized here allthe time. The city's main theatre is Arenadel Sole. The restoration work- finished in1996- gave rise to a spacious theater splitinto two rooms: the larger room is dedicatedto major performances featuring world-famous artists and the smaller one- SalaInteraction- is given over to experimentalwork and avant-garde theater. One of the oldest theaters in the city is TeatroDuse which is part of the Ente TeatraleItaliano(Italian Theatre Association).Another historic theatre is Teatro delleMoline, which is extremely small(it hasa capacity of 50) but very successful. Itis used by the artistic directors MarinellaManicardi and Prof. Gozzi(a DAMSgraduate) for experimental work featuringpredominantly Italian artists.

Teatro Dehon and Teatro delle Celebrazionioffer more commercial shows, particularlythe latter which tends to put on musicalsand cabaret shows. A more elite andintellectual audience can go and see avant-garde repertoires at Teatri di Vita, whichalso stages contemporary dance shows.

Children's theatre is not overlooked: TestoniRagazzi- a theater and arts center for children and young people- offers a seriesof shows and workshops for children. Thereare also many other theaters in the rest of the province, where theatre-going is no lesspopular. These include Teatro Consorzialedi Budrio.

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Things to Do Insights

Milan:

There are many different areas in Milanto explore, but a great place to start isBrera, because it is a district that is famedfor its nightlife and restaurants, but alsohas art galleries to visit in the day andglorious palaces that played an importantrole in Milan's history. Even if you cannotenter these palaces(because they are stillprivate residences or offices), you can still

drink in their beauty from the outside, asyou wander down the narrow streets. It isbest to take the Metro to reach Brera. Thenearest stops are Lanza, Moscova(line 2)and Cairoli(line 1).

There are a number of things to doduring the day in Brera, such as visit the

Pinacoteca di Brera(the Brera Art Gallery),which is found in the same building asthe Academy of Brera, Milan's School of Fine Arts. This gallery has 30 rooms of paintings from different eras. Not to missare Mantegna'sDead Christ,Madonna andthe Saints by Piero della Francesca, or theWedding of the Virgin by Raffaello.Those who prefer to occupy their time withlighter pursuits can visit various art galleriesaround the Via Centrale and surroundingstreets of Via Ciovasso and Monte diPietà. There are antique shops and shopsselling quality handmade goods, and onVia Solferino and Corso Garibaldi you canbrowse in some exquisite boutiques. If you feel guilty about all of the purchasesyou have made, indulge in your shopper'sremorse while wandering alongside thepeaceful Martesana Canal(Leonardo daVinci allegedly designed the locks). Asmentioned before, the real attraction of Brera is its nightlife; once made up of pianobars, the district is now full of bars andrestaurants. The Jamaica, at the end of Via Brera, was popular with intellectuals inthe 1960s, and is still a good place for anaperitif. There's also Moscatelli, a small bar with a huge choice of wines, and El Tombon

de San Marc, the first English pub in Milan,which also serves sandwiches, cold dishesand salads.

Brera also has good restaurants, whichthankfully stay open until late. In the samestreet at number 24 is the Latteria di SanMarco, a very famous and very crowdedsmall Lombardy restaurant, that is veryaffordable. Also popular is La Libera inVia Palermo, which serves traditionalItalian food, and La Briciola on the corner of Via Solferino and Via Marsala, whichserves outstanding soup, something

which Milanese restaurants are not oftencommended for! Brera also has a widechoice of international cuisine.

Brera is a definitely a gem of a districtwaiting to be discovered by night owlsand"morning people" alike.

If you are in the heart of thecentro storico,stop by the famous Duomo, which began

construction towards the end of the 14thCentury. The restoration and cleaningof the facade began in 2004 and wasrecently completed. Nearby is the world-renowned Teatro alla Scala, site of thepremieres of such famous operas asNormaby Vincenzo Bellini,Otello by GiuseppeVerdi, andMadama Butterfly andTurandot

by Giacomo Puccini.©

Travel Tips

Milan:

Getting There

Air Milan is served by three airports.Malpensa Airport(MXP)(+ 39 02 748 5220/http://www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/), thelargest, handles more than 16 millionpassengers a year, and is the farthest(30miles) from the city center. The airportclosest to the city is Linate(+39 02 74852200/ http://www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/),about 20 minutes from downtownMilan(mostly serving budget airlines andother inner European flights). The thirdairport is Orio al Serio(+39 02 7485 2200/http://www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/), whichis about a 45 minute drive from Milan.Malpensa Airport hosts the followingairlines:

Air Canada( +1 888 247 2262/ http://www.aircanada.ca/) Air China( +86 4008100 999/ http://www.airchina.com.cn/)

Air France( +1 800 871 1366/ http://www.airfrance.com/) Aer Lingus( +1 800474 7424/http://www.aerlingus.com/)Alitalia( +1 800 223 5730/ http://www.alitalia.com/) American Airlines( +1800 433 7300/ http://www.aa.com/)British Airways( +1 800 247 9297/http://www.ba.com/) Condor( +1 800524 6975/ http://www7.condor.com/)Continental( +1 800 231 0856/ http://www.continental.com/) Delta( +1 800221 1212/ http://www.delta.com/)easyJet( +44 870 600 0000/ http://www.easyjet.com/) Finnair( +1 800

950 5000/ http://www.finnair.com/)Germanwings( +44 870 252 12 50/ http://www1.germanwings.com/) Iberia( +1 800772 4642/ http://www.iberia.com/) Jet2( +44 207 150 0374/ http://www.jet2.com/)Lufthansa( +1 800 645 3880/ http://www.lufthansa.com/) Northwest( +1800 225 2525/ http://www.nwa.com/)




23

US Airways( +1 800 622 1015/ http://www.usairways.com/)

Getting from Malpensa(MXP) to Milan

Train: The Malpensa Express train(http://www.malpensaexpress.it/) runs from theairport terminal 1 to platforms 1 and 2 atCadorna train station every 27 and 57

minutes after the hour. Tickets are EUR 11or EUR 13.50 on-board one-way(40 minute

journey) or EUR 14.50 or EUR 17 on-boardround trip.

Shuttle: The Malpensa Shuttle( http://www.malpensashuttle.it/) departs fromStazione Centrale di Milano on the hour and every 20 and 40 minutes after the hour;a one-way ticket runs EUR 6 one-way(50minute journey) or EUR 10 round trip.

Air Pullman(+39 02 5858 3202/ http://airpullman.com/) operates a shuttlebetween the airport and Stazione Centrale,

Milan Fiera, Milan Lampugnano and PiazzaCastello. They also have service betweenMalpensa and Linate airports.

Car Rentals: From the Malpensa Airport,take the A8 or A26 to Milan. Rental Car companies include:

Alamo( +1 800 327 9633/ http://www.alamo.com/) Dollar( +1 800 4000/http://www.dollar.com/) Thrifty(+1 800 3672277/ http://www.thrifty.com/)

Getting from Milano Linate(LIN) to Milan

Shuttle: The Malpensa Shuttle(http://

www.malpensashuttle.it/) also operatesservice between Linate and StazioneCentrale di Milano, as well as a servicebetween the two airports.

Bus: Bus 73 runs from the airport to metrostation San Babila(MM1, red line) and justone stop from the Duomo.

Train

Stazione Centrale di Milano is one of Europe's main train stations. The building,inaugurated in 1931, is an architecturalwonder; Vittorio Emanuele III himself laidthe cornerstone in 1906. It is, therefore

not surprising that you can get to justabout anywhere in Italy or Europe fromthis hub. For more information about Italy'srail system, visit their website at:http://www.ferroviedellostato.it/.

Getting Around

Public Transport

Public Transportation The ATM(AziendaTrasporti Milanesi) manages themetropolitan area of Milan with extensiverailway, tram, trolley and bus lines.( http://www.atm-mi.it/)

Milan's subway system orMetropolitanahas three lines: Linea 1(red), Linea2(green), and Linea 3(yellow). The urbanrail,Passante Ferroviario is blue. Asthroughout the rest of Italy, tickets can bepurchased at newsstands,tabacchi, or frommachines in certain areas. The price for aticket is EUR 1, but one(EUR 3) and two-

day(EUR 5.50) passes are also availableand are a great option if you plan to usethe system a lot. Tickets must be validatedby the rider at the time of their use, andthey are valid 75 minutes from the timethey are stamped. Make sure to stampyour ticket as public transport is oftenchecked by controllers and non-validatedtickets can result in unpleasant experiencesand hefty fines. If you plan to ride morethan once, consider a tourist pass, or justbuy a few tickets at once to use whenneeded. Most of the main sites are locateddowntown, and are within easy walking

distance from the Duomo metro stop. For those traveling to other parts of the city, themodern subway system is a great option,but trains stop running at midnight. Trams,trolleys, and buses operate lines all night,see ATM's website for more information androute details.

Taxi

Taxis can be hailed on the streets, althoughit can be difficult to actually get one to stop.Taxi ranks are found in the center andthroughout the city; these are a much better bet. Taxis are usually white or yellow, and

the main companies are Radiotaxi( +39

02 6767 or 5353) and Autoradio( +39 028585). If you call for a taxi, be forewarnedthat the meter starts as soon as the callis received. Even so, they are not asexpensive as many other European citiesand can be a great way to get around.

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Fun Facts

Milan:

MilanProvince: LombardyCountry: Italy

Milan By The Numbers:

Population: 1,300,000(city);7,400,000(metropolitan)

Elevation: 211 m/ 692 ft

Average Annual Precipitation: 97 cm/ 38.3in

Average January Temperature: 2°C/ 35°FAverage July Temperature: 22°C/ 72°F

Quick Facts:

Major Industries: Textile manufacturing,Chemical manufacturing, Foodmanufacturing, Tourism, Shipbuilding

Electricity: 220 volts, 50Hz, round two- or three-pin plugs

Time Zone: GMT+1

Country Dialing Code:+39

Area Code: 02

Did You Know?

Milan is the fashion center of the world.The leading designers of apparel andaccessories are headquartered or havemajor operations here, including Gucci,Prada, Armani, Versace, and Dolce&Gabbana.

Teatro alla Scala is one of Europe's major Opera houses with a capacity of more than2,000 seats.

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