modalidades de escalada
TRANSCRIPT
![Page 1: Modalidades de Escalada](https://reader035.vdocuments.net/reader035/viewer/2022081419/55b19a4abb61eb6d7f8b4802/html5/thumbnails/1.jpg)
Modalidades de Escalada
Disciplina “Escalada e Técnicas Verticais” FEF/Unicamp 2013
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Dimensões da escalada
Gelo
Elemento
Resina
Rocha
Neve
+25m
1-3m
3-25m
+4000m
Altura
Proteção
Fixa
Crash pads
Água
Móvel
Dias
Comprome- timento
Minutos
Horas
Livre
Estilo
Alpino
Uso das proteções
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Alpinismo
Gelo
Elemento
Resina
Rocha
Neve
+25m
1-3m
3-25m
+4000m
Altura
Proteção
Fixa
Crash pads
Água
Móvel
Dias
Comprome- timento
Minutos
Horas
Livre
Estilo
Alpino
Uso das proteções
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Alpinismo
• Escalada em alta montanha comercial
• Escalada em alta montanha estilo alpino
• Escalada estilo alpino
• Comprometimento
• Esforço físico
• Riscos além dos associados a técnicas de escalada
• Ética
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Desafio físico
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Guia
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Artificial
Gelo
Elemento
Resina
Rocha
Neve
+25m
1-3m
3-25m
+4000m
Altura
Proteção
Fixa
Crash pads
Água
Móvel
Dias
Comprome- timento
Minutos
Horas
Livre
Estilo
Alpino
Uso das proteções
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Escalada Artificial
• Via contém seções técnicas acima do nível de escalada do escalador
• Proteções são usadas para progressão
• Esquipamentos e técnicas específicos
• Pode ser necessário dormir na parede
• Big Wall
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Tradicional
Gelo
Elemento
Resina
Rocha
Neve
+25m
1-3m
3-25m
+4000m
Altura
Proteção
Fixa
Crash pads
Água
Móvel
Dias
Comprome- timento
Minutos
Horas
Livre
Estilo
Alpino
Uso das proteções
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Escalada Tradicional
• Mais de uma cordada/enfiada
• Proteção fixa ou móvel
• Acesso difícil
• Planejamento
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Móvel
Gelo
Elemento
Resina
Rocha
Neve
+25m
1-3m
3-25m
+4000m
Altura
Proteção
Fixa
Crash pads
Água
Móvel
Dias
Comprome- timento
Minutos
Horas
Livre
Estilo
Alpino
Uso das proteções
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Escalada em Móvel
• Proteção móvel
• Menor impacto
• Questões de ética/estilo
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Esportiva
Gelo
Elemento
Resina
Rocha
Neve
+25m
1-3m
3-25m
+4000m
Altura
Proteção
Fixa
Crash pads
Água
Móvel
Dias
Comprome- timento
Minutos
Horas
Livre
Estilo
Alpino
Uso das proteções
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Escalada Esportiva
• Redução do risco
• Ênfase em aspectos físicos
• Equipamento mais acessível
• Prática mais popular
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Gelo
Gelo
Elemento
Resina
Rocha
Neve
+25m
1-3m
3-25m
+4000m
Altura
Proteção
Fixa
Crash pads
Água
Móvel
Dias
Comprome- timento
Minutos
Horas
Livre
Estilo
Alpino
Uso das proteções
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Escalada no gelo
• Proteção móvel
• Piqueta e cranpons
• Exige experiência para avaliação da qualidade do gelo/neve
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Psicobloc
Gelo
Elemento
Resina
Rocha
Neve
+25m
1-3m
3-25m
+4000m
Altura
Proteção
Fixa
Crash pads
Água
Móvel
Dias
Comprome- timento
Minutos
Horas
Livre
Estilo
Alpino
Uso das proteções
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Indoor
Gelo
Elemento
Resina
Rocha
Neve
+25m
1-3m
3-25m
+4000m
Altura
Proteção
Fixa
Crash pads
Água
Móvel
Dias
Comprome- timento
Minutos
Horas
Livre
Estilo
Alpino
Uso das proteções
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Escalada Indoor
• Top-rope/esportiva/boulder
• Ambiente controlado
• Fácil acesso
• Foco em treinamento
• Aspectos comerciais
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Boulder
Gelo
Elemento
Resina
Rocha
Neve
+25m
1-3m
3-25m
+4000m
Altura
Proteção
Fixa
Crash pads
Água
Móvel
Dias
Comprome- timento
Minutos
Horas
Livre
Estilo
Alpino
Uso das proteções
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Bouldering
• Mais seguro, mas com alto índice de lesão/acidentes
• Movimentação no limite da capacidade de execução do atleta
• Equipamento minimalista
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Mais informações
www.geeu-escalada.org
Escalada é um esporte de risco. Revise nós, ancoragens, e colocação de
todos os materiais de segurança.