monforte dairy
DESCRIPTION
Artisanal cheese. In a world gone mad for innovation and change, it's the small pleasures that keep us sane. And in the constellation of small pleasures that salve the mind and nourish the body, what trumps the sheer sensual deliciousness of a well-crafted cheese? At Monforte, we're convinced the small things do indeed make a difference, that agriculture is best practiced on a human scale, and that our cheeses, each in its own way, reflect something a little deeper than the technology behind mass manufactured food - a little of the poetry and passion of life itself. www.monfortedairy.comTRANSCRIPT
MONFORTE DAIRYAT MARKET.
Rachel and Daniel in their Saturday costume caper
Shepherds, Farmers, Teachers,
Artists andFriends
WE ARE BLESSED TO HAVE OUR
SHEPHERDS AND FARMERS IN
OUR WORLD. IN THE CASE OF
DAVID MARTIN, WE LEARN TO
SLOW RIGHT DOWN AND WRITE
AND RECEIVE LETTERS.
2104 Design and Production by DUO. CA [DUO Strategy and Design Inc.]Photography, unless otherwise noted, www.noracamps.com
I think of the decade of Monforte, the
ten years ended with healing on many
levels: the opportunity to help with cheese-
making education, to feel less financial
pressure, to rest a little with the seasonal
rhythms, to spend more time with family
and friends.
It’s been a decade; it is remarkable how
quickly that time has gone.
How much has been accomplished and
how much there is left to learn.
I am so grateful that you have been there
for support during our learning curve, and
grateful that we aren’t done growing and
learning. There is so much that we want
to accomplish and get better at and do, so
please stick with us, as this has been just
the beginning.
The Decade That Was
Ten years ago, just after Monforte got
started, a quirky, coltish Mennonite girl
showed up, passionate about what cheese is
and what it could do for her community.
I think that Rachael became symbolic of
the growth of the business and all the joys
and foibles of the last ten years.
In the process, she was just like Monforte;
full of triumphs and failures, tenacious and
honourable and totally human.
On January 3, 2014, Rachael married her
love; a Mennonite cheese maker from
Iowa. Together they will carry on the craft
of cheese making, and the love of land
and sustainable agriculture there. But
she has left a legacy of her own abilities
and principles and chutzpah within the
company.
I am so lucky to have known and worked
with her, but now is the time for the
company to look at the next decade and
think of what we want to accomplish in
that time.
I think both Rachael and Monforte have
evolved from colts to mares; both are
steadier and wiser, yet still keen to keep
working. We could not exist without our
community and we thank you for all the
support you have given us so far. But we are
far from finished…
It is time to be more and to be better.
Thank you for dreaming with us.
Ruth
Monforte Dairy
Des is generous with his time
and talents, and is kind beyond
belief.. When I first met Des, I was
the chef for the Stratford Festival
which was a job full of wonders
and privilege.
We worked hard but felt
rewarded and appreciated. One
year, during opening week, we
had worked a pretty long day, and
I needed to come back the next
morning.
The kitchen was a disaster;
after I had left at midnight I
guess the kids decided to go to the
party and blow off the cleanup.
Goodness was I frustrated, and
sometimes when I am tired and
disappointed, the reaction can be
intense. So there I was, storming
around my kitchen, yelling about
kids these days, with no idea that
Des was in the building working
on a late opener. Next thing I
knew there was a package left on
the kitchen counter.
Our wonderful friend, Desmond Heeley, is a brilliant theatre designer and artist who did our original logo.
Our wonderful friend, Desmond Heeley, is a brilliant theatre designer and artist who did our original logo.
It was one of Desmond’s
paintings with a note saying that
I was a thing of absolute beauty
when I was angry, absolutely
beautiful.
Now I am many things but not
a thing of beauty and it was one
of the most wonderful things
anyone has ever said to me, even
if it isn’t the truth.
Most days I think of Des.
He isn’t well right now, and
Monforte wants to send out best
wishes and the remembrance
of laughter, art and the belief
of craft. Our lives are better for
having him as a friend.
When we throw parties we
always think of whether Des
would enjoy them, and boy,
did we have a good time this
Sunday before Christmas. We
recreated the Morris dinner in
an earthier, more Monforte way.
Brandade, cassoulet and salad
and Christmas pudding. Good
friends and music and generosity
of spirit. We just wish Desmond
could have been there.
We hope for each of you a New
Year full of friends and laughter
and good food.
Please be kind to each other,
and thank you all for being
friends of Monforte.
Our lives are all richer because
of you.
Fondly, Ruth
Desmond Heeley: 1997 Camelot
Camelot, 1997, was Desmond
Heeley’s 34th production for
the Stratford Festival. His first
project at Stratford was the
1957 production of Hamlet,
which marked the opening of
the permanent Festival Theatre
building.
With gratitude to the Archives
of the Stratford Festival for
sharing these images.
An osteria is not fancy. It generally has fewer menu choices in a family style atmosphere. Menus are based on availability of foraged, seasonal, local food. In Italy, people who work nearby might frequent the same osteria daily for a good meal in familiar surroundings. Sometimes Monforte’s osteria will have music or movies or wine tastings and sometimes it will be the home base for farm tours…or it will be where we share how to ferment foods.
osteria
in a meadow of knee-
high grasses behind five girls of various
heights. The smallest was almost eclipsed
by the grass and so the eldest swung her
little sister up onto her hip. Four of the
girls have long braids that lay flat and
contrasting against the fabric of their
dresses, which were coloured from royal
blue to soft grey. These girls skip, dance,
pick grasses and gaze with loving eyes at
their father who stands in the middle of
this field, straw hat firmly planted against
the wind and sun.
The breeze made the grasses move
like large waves, while the sky, blue
interrupted by white clouds, goes on
forever in every direction. We are away
from cities and towns, off a dirt road in
Mennonite country. We step carefully, the
girls in bare feet, to avoid cow plops and
nettles. As we walk, the cows, dairy cows
of black and brown and tan, inch toward
us - not too close - never too close - as we
are not yet friends.
These cows only produce milk when they
have calved and the milk they provide is
rich in cream. This is one source of milk
for Monforte cheese and if you have tasted
Salers, Abondance, Tellegio, Chemey, or
Gaperon than you have experienced the
wealth and beauty of Perry’s farm. These
cows will be called in at the end of the day
and they come, without any prodding or
encouragement, to their stalls where they
will be fed hay and milked.
On this day, moments earlier, three grey
kittens were born to an all white Molly.
One of us has fallen in love with the dog…
hard. Last winter this dog had 9 pups; her
first litter. The girls promise a puppy to
our friend. He is smitten with the bitch
who has rolled unceremoniously onto her
back for a scratching and stroking.
We are given posies of mixed flowers and
we purchase onions and eggs. We say our
farewells and promise to return.
We walked
So imagine Linwood; a tiny, mostly conservative Mennonite village north of St. Jacob’s. Talk about local, for goodness sake. I mean really, these are people who grow and raise all of their own food and you are there talking to them about why they should buy your expensive sheep’s milk cheese.
And then you meet him, and he says to you in an Iowa accent, “So, you make cheese.” And you think, if I could be a conservative Mennonite, this would be the ideal thing going on. But he is the coolest, most honourable of humans, and you realize that you are in the presence of a farmer so amazing, who doesn’t know he is amazing, because that would be vain and that is unacceptable.
And his eyes twinkle.
And he raises pigs.
So here goes the thinking, because one is always thinking...if he took my whey, we could replicate the European model. Cheese, whey, pork. Full circle.
Not only that, but David also grows wheat which he mills and we make into crackers and granola.
His name is David E. M. Martin and he is our pork farmer and an extraordinary human being, but don’t tell him. That just wouldn’t do.
But in the meantime; if you can, buy his pork or his flour because he is a really good farmer; ethical, honourable and so humbly intelligent.
He is what will save our world.
What started as a desire to make cheese has grown into a mood of responsibility for and to our shepherds and farmers, our
community, to other artists...to the food chain and to those less
fortunate than we are.
We are dreaming of a subscriber-funded Monforte Farm where young
farmers can count on longterm land and where the community can come to learn and partake. Ruth is leaning toward a farm that models
San Patrignano.
[www.sanpatrignano.org]
ThinkMakeGrow
PrepareShareLearn
More excitement ahead.
I first met Chef Neil Baxter at the culinary school – Stratford Chefs School – where he was a teacher and I was a student. I coveted his cooking ability. We married, we shared a kitchen, two kitchens actually, and a wonderful son. Today Neil and I are good friends and food colleagues. Neil runs cooking classes in Rundles’ kitchen and I visit from time to time to break bread and talk cheese. I am still smitten by Neil’s cooking. On this particular Sunday, Neil and his class were preparing an Indian-influenced meal.
As we said goodbye, students were preparing to sit down and enjoy the fruits of their labour.
Chef Neil Baxter
THE CAST AND CREW FROM
Tommy, STRATFORD FESTIVAL,
ATTENDED OUR FIRST ‘SING
FOR YOUR SUPPER’ EVENT AT
MONFORTE ON WELLINGTON.
We love agood party.
Monforte started its existence in January
of 2004, and one of the wonders of the first
year was a young woman named Rachael
Bauman. She showed up like a kitten with
no fear, more energy then she knew what
to do with and a heart that was so tender
that I often overwhelmed her. We worked
together for 10 years and Rachael gave
Monforte and everyone who was involved
with us joy and passion and a determination
that was formidable.
Rachael has grown into a beautiful woman.
She got married to a wonderful young
Mennonite cheesemaker from Iowa on
January 3rd, 2014.
We all wish Rachael joy and prosperity and
a life full of wonderful cheese and family.
Be well Rachael; we love you.
Monforte Dairy49 Griffith Road,
Stratford, ON(877) 437-5553
Monforte on Jefferson125 Jefferson Ave,
Toronto, ON(647) 700-8598
Monforte on WellingtonOsteria
80 Wellington St.Stratford, ON
www.monfortedairy.com
Wellington Street, Stratford, ON c. 1910 Image: Stratford-Perth Archives
Gerard Brender a Brandis created this wood ingraving of a water buffalo for Monforte Dairy - to celebrate the life of dear friend and mentor Dan DeMatteis