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Mountain Garden Design Kathy Zimmerman Transylvania County Master Gardener Volunteer, Garden Designer, Wildwood Design 2016

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Mountain Garden DesignKathy Zimmerman

Transylvania County Master Gardener Volunteer,Garden Designer, Wildwood Design

2016

Mountain Gardening – What’s Different?

Slopes

Shade

Storm water

WildlifeNative Plants

Poor Soil

Development in the mountains introduces …

• Slopes– Steep– Lost vegetation

& roots – Bare, exposed,

poor soil• Alterations in

natural water flow• Increased

impervious surfaces

Other Common Landscape Problems

What is landscape design?A. After you buy a plant, decide

where best to place it in your yard

B. Analyze the appearance of your yard, then decide what plants would look good

C. Study the environmental and aesthetic aspects of your yard, then decide what plants will both look good and best thrive

After you buy a plant, d

...

Analyze the ap

pearance ..

Study the envir

onmenta..

Which leads us to …

• Landscape Design - a process by which we determine our goals, analyze our environment, and identify what will grow well, and how best to use our space and resources …. versus …

• Plant Driven “Design” – which often starts with impulse buying and is done without planning, without understanding our environment, and is too often unsuccessful

Steps in Landscape Design

• Determine Program (Requirements)• Site Analysis• Concept Plan• Illustrative Design• Planting Design

Graphical Diagramming

• Diagramming enables designer to– investigate approaches– communicate organization, circulation, spatial

relationships, structure and enclosure • Diagrams work with

– Concepts – ideas, processes, events– Objects – Physical elements varying in scale

Step One: Determine Requirements – the “Program”

• Identify wants and needs• How you want to use the space • Personal interests, favorite colors, styles • Access requirements• Context of neighborhoodOutput: List of items to be included in the

plan or considered for inclusion

Example of Program• Create an inviting entrance area to the front

of the house. The design will incorporate the existing ‘Forest Pansy’ Redbud tree and add 4-season interest.

• Provide for an intimate outside dining area with easy access to kitchen. The space should accommodate small gatherings (4-6 people).

• Include a woodland path that can be accessed from the back yard patio as well as from the front walkway. Be sure to include several native azaleas and other native plant material.

• The design should provide an informal, natural look in keeping with the mountain site.

Next Step: Site Analysis• Perform a Site

Inventory – – Draw the house and

yard to scale– Draw in all

permanent or semi-permanent fixtures & plants based on measurements

– This is your base plan or map

Site Analysis Resources

• Tape Measures (30’ metal, 100’ plastic)

• Graph Paper (1/8” or 1/4”)• Ruler • Tracing paper• Compass

• Plat/Survey• GIS printout (see

handouts for website)• Photos

– Take pictures • helps you see things

you might have overlooked

• take pictures from inside looking out

• good reminder as you go through the design process

Analysis• Add notes & diagrams to show attributes and

problems with site– show the existing plants and note the condition of

each plant• Which plants have outlived their role?• What plants could be moved or pruned to revitalize them?• What plants have been shaded out by mature trees and

shrubs?– note environmental conditions (aspect to the sun, soil

condition, shade, wetness, poor growth, frequent pruning, etc.)

– Note aesthetic or visual problems (windows blocked, bad view, need for privacy, etc.)

• Remember … “Everything depends on everything else …” D. Bir

Identify Site Conditions

Identify problem areas …

Track the Sun/shade patterns: Full sun plants require 6 hours or more sun per day

Identify Functional Goals

• Buffer – screen visual, noise, provide privacy• Enclosure – separate distinct use areas• Entertainment• Recreation• Directing views • Directing circulation• Erosion control/drainage issues• Climate control – shade, air filtration• Increase wildlife habitats

Step Three: Develop a Concept Plan

• Blend needs and function with ideas and creativity

• Try to create a “sense of place” - The character of the garden that will be developed …

– Start with an overarching idea for the design - makes it more enriching and helps move the design along

– May be based on the setting – natural, historical, …– May be based upon a theme – color, memorial, …– Always helps to have this sense in order to bring unity and

personalization to the landscape

Concept Diagram

Bubble diagrams help to organize the space and provide a way to let ideas flow

•Use trace paper over the site plan•Develop a pattern relating the house to structure and views; helps keep proportion so everything hangs together

Section & Perspective Drawings•Rough section drawings will help offer a dimensional view – can use photos with trace paper to try out ideas

Now think Design & Plants …

• Now it’s time to flesh out the concept, taking it from the general to the specific with stepwise refinement

• Address the program and resolve the problems identified during site analysis

• Follow design principles for a satisfactory new garden design

Design Elements in a Small Garden

• Balance/Symmetry• Proportion/Scale• Unity

– Contrast/Texture/Color– Focalization– Repetition/Rhythm/Transition

Balance … brings visual equilibrium creating a sense of ease

Overgrown Shrubbery Affects Balance

Slopes and Empty Walls Can Affect

Balance

Symmetry Provides Balance

- Identical images on either side of axis- Gives sense of order, serenity & formality

Asymmetry Can Still Have Balance

-Blending of different elements with visual weight equal across image - For example, 1 large object balanced by several smaller or can achieve this visually through texture and materials that reflect subordination or dominence

Assymetric But In Balance

Use Concept Drawings

Scale and Proportion

• Important in small space• Scale in a garden relates

human form to the objects

• Proportion relates to size relationships of parts within a whole – the objects within the composition

From Notanothergardeningblog.wordpress.com

Look atProportion of

Plants to House

Scale – Relationship to People

Scale – Relationship to People

Walkway and Perennials add Human Scale

A large undefined space …

• This will help you organize the space

• Helps achieve intimacy and maintain scale

Think in Terms of Outside “Rooms”

Unity• Synthesizing of elements

into a harmonious whole• Unifying concept• Repetition of elements,

color, shape, line• Unity – bringing order and

harmony to composition so that it all fits together

Variety • Contrast – brings visual relief to a composition

• Tension - opposing elements provide drama

• Differences provides interest and meaning within a unified context

• Shape• Texture• Color• Weight• Lines & curves

Texture

Coarse Texture

- Dominates – will draw the eye- Usually put towards back

Fine Texture

- Recedes from view, so best appreciated from closer

Medium Texture

- Most plants - Used in contrast with coarse and fine textured plants

Where does the eye go?

Where does the eye go?A. TreeB. Chartreuse PerennialC. Rock Walkway

Where Does the Eye Go?

A. Variegated ShrubB. Oakleaf HydrangeaC. Blue Flowers

Texture – Essential for the winter garden

Which scene is more interesting?

A B

100%0% A. Picture A

B. Picture B

Color & Contrast

Contrasting color and texture

Plant Combinations – Contrast in Color, Texture, Form, Light, …

How to we create a balance between Variety and Unity?

• Choose a theme or sense of place to tie it all together

• Select plants and materials that create repetition, rhythm and transition

• Place plants so that there is a focal point

Theme Gardens

The Purple Garden

Woodland Garden

Focal Points

• Emphasis/Focalization – draws the eye, moves you forward – can be influenced by size, color, location, lighting

Focal Points

• One per “room” or at least one per season per room

• Weeping plants good to use because of contrast – wouldn’t want multiple

Without a Focal Point

Select One Plant as Focal Point other plants & materials to complement

Specimen Plants as Focal Points

Focal Points Need not be Plants

Repetition

• Strong unifying element• Might be with skeleton of evergreens• Mass of same plant• Repeating color or texture

Repetition using same plant …

Repetition for UnityUsing Color …

Same Leaf Shape

Repetition …Using Materials

Repetition Using Form

Does this work?A. YesB. No

Rhythm & Transition

• Rhythm - Reinforcing concept such as stepping stones, row of columns or tree trunks, repeated plant, or form

• Transition – relates contrasting elements, softens contrasting materials through linear elements, paths, walls, edges, etc.

Examples of Rhythm

Examples of Transition

Organic Lines

Element of Surprise

Symmetry,Rhythm,

Repetition,Line,Edge,

Focalization,Transition,

Scale,Enclosure

Asymmetry, Balance,

Focalization,Unity,Line,

Repetition,Transition,Enclosure, Proportion,

Scale, Contrast

From Concept to Design

Identify Functional Goals

Buffer – screen visual, noise, provide privacy Enclosure – separate distinct use areas Entertainment Recreation Directing views Directing circulation Erosion control/drainage issues Climate control – shade, air filtration Increase wildlife habitats

Where Does the Water Go in My Yard?

• To solve stormwater problems in your yard, begin by observing your yard during a rainfall event.

• Notice where water is flowing from, and where it is going.

Conservation

Open Drainage

Rain Gardens

Amended Soils

Rain Barrel

Permeable Pavement

• How can I keep the water … on my property?

Low Impact Development Techniques

Possible Solutions

• Rainwater Harvesting• Permeable Materials• French Drains• Swales & Level Spreaders• Dry Streams• Slope Management• Rain Gardens

Rain garden principles• Place between

stormwater source and destination (between house and stream, low spots in yard, or street)

• Soil and plants filter pollutant from water

• Infiltration slows water to decrease flooding

Provide a dry stream bed to collect and route water off the hill -

Step Five: Planting Design

• Choose Plants that Fit the Design – Consider style and overall effect; designate

focal points– Consider time element – both seasonal

change and ultimate size of plants– Consider shape, texture, color, contrast,

repetition, rhythm, etc.

Right Plant, Right Place

• Consider environmental factors– Sun exposure– Moisture– Soil condition, pH, texture– Space to grow to ultimate expected size• If working with existing plants - identify those that

need to be removed, moved or renewal pruned

Learn from the Natural Landscape

• Orientation– North – shade, part shade

Rhododendron, Sourwood, Christmas Fern

– South – full sun, unless tree shadedBarren/Grasses, Weeds/Wildflowers; Shaded/Mountain Laurel

Cones

• Carry weight & add stability• Also serve as

exclamation mark!

Globes

• Add weight • Contrast well with

spikes & fountains

Mounds

• Provide grounding• Softer and lower in

profile than globes

Spikes

• Get attention, draws eye

• Contrasts well with mounds and globes

Fountains• Tall plants, flaring

outward at top• Vase-shaped trees• Adds grace

Mats

• Lies low• Ties the garden to its

site

Putting Plants Together(John Brookes)

• Specials – specimen trees, focal points• Skeletons – bones of garden, evergreens • Decorative – flowering shrubs, vines, ornamental

grasses• Pretties – herbaceous perennials, seasonal interest• InFills- bulbs, annuals, splash of color & interest• Work in triangles – mass, smaller, single for natural

planting

Create Bones with Evergreens

Install the “Bones” of the Garden: Hardscape and Evergreens

Add “Fillers” and “Pretties”

Elements to Consider for Plant Selection & Placement

• Color• Texture• Scent• Sound• Touch• Light• Form

• Contrast• Pattern• Perspective• Motion• Circulation• Change• Aspect

Start Small – Develop Focal Points or Vignettes

All Season Interest

Choose Plants That Work in All Seasons

Planting Layout Tips

• Watch out for spreaders!• Plant in masses – odd numbers usually work best• Group plants by their water requirements and

place those that need more water closest to the source

• When planting natives, look to what grows together in plant communities – they will be most successful together

• Avoid monoculture – variety helps avoid plant disease

Plant in Masses – Plant Close Together

Plant a Variety –

(but repeat the varieties)

“Natural” Garden Design• Imitate nature • Plant masses or drifts of one kind of plant, gradually yielding

to another, with interspersion at borders

Hillside Layout Tips

• Break up the water with rock & plants• Alter the slope with terraces, berms, walls• Plant in masses • Plant closer together than you might on

level land• Plant a variety - different layers help to

slow down the water

A Hillside Rock Garden Uses the Slope to Advantage

Appropriate Plants for the Mountain Garden

– Use natives where possible – they are tolerant of the climate variability of your site and you won’t spread competing species to naturalized areas; remove invasives!

– Consider environmental factors• Sun/shade• Soil • Wetness

Encourage nature to do it’s

thing

Partial Shade – North Slope

Flame Azalea

Native Rhododendron

Mountain Hydrangea

Sourwood

Christmas Fern

Part Sun - Shrubs

St. John’s Wort

Summersweet Clethra

Virginia Sweetspire

High-bush Blueberry

Mountain Laurel

Moist Slopes –Dog Hobble (Leucothoe)Rhododendron

Part Shade Groundcover – No Mow Lawn

Fescue blend – Hard, Creeping Red, Chewings

Low Maintenance

Not good for wet site

Can plant with wildflowers

What to do with a Sunny, Cut Slope?

Reedy Park – Greenville, SC

Meadow Plants – Full SunLittle Bluestem, Switchgrass, Muhley Grass

Wildflowers – Liatris, Echinacea, Asters, Coreopsis, Goldenrod, etc.

Massed Switchgrass & Red Twig Dogwood

Sumac and Switchgrass

Sunny Slopes - Wildflowers

Non-natives: Winter Heath, Lavender

Hillside Planting Tips

• For very steep slopes, use jute staked down and cut holes/plant through it

• Plant from the top down so you don’t tread on those newly planted

• Place lower maintenance plants at top of slope, higher maintenance plants at bottom

Hillside Watering Tips

• Plant with dam or water well to retain water (roof shingles have been suggested)

• Water in cycles to avoid runoff – check what is absorbed – give a couple hours rest – then repeat in cycles

• Drip hose placed at top of hill, lets water run down hill

Traditional Groundcovers• Juniper – ok if full sun and good drainage• Ivy – Invasive!• Vinca – less, but still Invasive!• Cotoneaster – Collects leaves and gets Lacebug• Ajuga – Spreads too easily • Liriope – ok for a non-native• Pachysandra – the non-native is ok, but try the

native• Winter Creeper – this is an Invasive!

Groundcovers Run Amuck …

Nature’s Ground Covers

Shaded Area Groundcovers - NativesChristmas Fern

New York Fern

Sedges

Dwarf Crested Iris

Woodland Phlox

Creeping Geranium

Native Pachysandra

Partial Shade – Northern Exposure

Native Rhododendron

Flame Azalea

Leucothoe

Silver-leaf Hydrangea

Native Ferns

Christmas Fern, New York Fern, Lady Fern, Cinnamon Fern, Goldie’s Fern, Marginal Wood Fern, Fancy Fern, Log Fern,

Southern Highland Reserve,

Toxaway Mountain

Non-Native:HostasSweetbox

The “Dirty Dozen” …of Invasive Plants

• Some of which are sold in the landscape trade• Some that you might have in your garden• Some that you love from your childhood• All for which there are good alternatives!

English Ivy• Hedera helix• Evergreen vine that can grow

to 100 feet in length• Can invade woodlands, fields

and other upland areas• It can grow both along the

ground, where it can displace native understory species, and in the tree canopy, often covering branches and slowly killing trees

• Native to Europe and was introduced into America by early settlers for ornamental purposes

                              

Instead of English Ivy

Native Pachysandra, Virginia Creeper, Native Ferns, Partridgeberry, Sedges, Foam Flower, Creeping Phlox, Woodland Geranium

Non-native Honeysuckles• Lonicera fragrantissima, L. japonica, L.

maaki, L. morrowii• Evergreen to semi-evergreen vine that can

be found either trailing or climbing to heights of over 80 feet (or shrub varieties)

• Vine invades a variety of habitats including forest floors and canopies, roadsides, wetlands, and disturbed areas. It can girdle small saplings by twining around them and can form dense mats in the canopies of trees, shading everything below

• Shrubs readily invade open woodlands, old fields and other disturbed sites and can spread rapidly due to the seeds being dispersed by birds and mammals

• Shrubs introduced in the 1700’s and vine in early 1800’s. Honeysuckle have been planted widely throughout the United States as an ornamental, for erosion control, and for wildlife habitat.

                                                                                 

Instead of Japanese Honeysuckle …

Coral Honeysuckle, Summersweet, Spicebush, Sweetshrub

Multiflora Rose

• Rosa multiflora• Multi-stemmed thorny,

perennial shrub that grows up to 15 feet tall

• Forms impenetrable thickets in pastures, fields and forest edges. It restricts human, livestock and wildlife movement and displaces native vegetation.

• Native to Asia and was first introduced to America in 1866 as rootstock for ornamental roses. During the mid 1900s it was widely planted as a “living fence” for livestock control and it has also been used for erosion control.

                                                                                                                

Instead of Multiflora Rose …

Blackberry, Flowering Raspberry, Pasture rose, Swamp Rose

Mimosa• Albizia julibrissin• Mimosa invades any type of

disturbed habitat. It is commonly found in old fields, stream banks, and roadsides.

• Once established, mimosa is difficult to remove due to the long lived seeds and its ability to re-sprout vigorously. Said to be one of biggest invasive problems in the Smokies!

• Native to Asia and was first introduced into the U.S. in 1745 and has been used as an ornamental.

                                                                   

Princess Tree• Paulownia tomentosa• Deciduous tree, growing up to

60 feet in height and 2 feet in diameter. Princess tree is easily recognized by its opposite, fuzzy, large (6 to 12 inches long), heart-shaped leaves and showy, erect, pale-violet flowers

• Invades roadsides, stream banks, forest edges, and other disturbed areas, but has the ability to invade a wide variety of places.

• Native to eastern Asia and was first introduced into America in the early 1800s for ornamental purposes and as a potential export for carving wood

                                                       

Instead of Mimosa or Princess Tree …

Serviceberry, River Birch, Redbud, Sweetbay Magnolia, Sourwood, Dogwood

Burning Bush• Euonymous alata• Deciduous shrub, up to 20 feet in

height, which invades forests throughout the eastern United States

• Can invade a variety of disturbed habitats including forest edges, old fields, and roadsides. The seeds are readily dispersed by birds, allowing for many long dispersal events. Once established, it can form dense thickets that displace native vegetation

• Native to northeastern Asia and was first introduced into America in the 1860s for ornamental purposes. It currently continues to be sold and planted as a ornamental or roadside hedge.

                                   

Instead of Burning Bush …

Fothergilla

Virginia Sweetspire

High Bush Blueberry

Chokeberry

Japanese Spirea• Spirea japonica• Small, deciduous shrub (up to 6

feet tall) that invades a variety of habitats throughout the eastern United States

• Japanese spiraea invades a variety of habitats including fields, forests, stream banks, and many disturbed areas. Once established, it can form dense stands which displace native vegetation and close open areas

• Native to eastern Asia and was first introduced into the United States around 1879 as an ornamental.

                                                                                 

Barberry• Berberis japonica• Small deciduous shrub from 2 to 8

feet tall• Japanese barberry invades a

variety of habitats from shaded woodlands to open fields and wetlands.

• It is very shade-tolerant and can form dense stands which shade out and displace native species. The berries are readily eaten and dispersed by birds, allowed Japanese barberry to spread rapidly

• Native to Asia and was first introduced into America in 1864 as an ornamental. It is still widely planted for landscaping and hedges.

                                                                                 

Instead of Spirea or Barberry …

Summersweet, Virginia Sweetspire, St John’s Wort, Fothergilla or masses of native perennials

Wisteria• Wisteria sinensis and Wisteria

floribunda• Deciduous woody vine capable of

growing to 70 feet long• Invasions often occur around

previous plantings. Chinese and Japanese wisteria can displace native vegetation and kill trees and shrubs by girdling them.

• They have the ability to change the structure of a forest by killing trees and altering the light availability to the forest floor.

• Natives of Japan and China, first introduced into America around 1830 for ornamental purposes

                                        

Instead of Chinese or Japanese Wisteria

Crossvine, Coral Honeysuckle, American Wisteria, Carolina Jessamine

Bradford Pear• Pyrus calleryana• Ornamental deciduous tree with

some non-sterile cultivars that have escaped and are invading natural areas throughout the eastern United States

• The “Bradford” variety of pear, which produced sterile fruits, has been widely planted throughout America since the early 1900s, but recent cultivars, bred to reduce the tendency of the tree to split in snow or high winds, have produced viable seeds and escaped to invade disturbed areas.

                              

Instead of Bradford Pear …

Serviceberry, Dogwood, Fringe Tree, Arrowwood Viburnum

Tree of Heaven• Ailanthus altissima• Rapidly growing small tree but can

reach up to 80 feet in height and 6 feet in diameter

• It is extremely tolerant of poor soil conditions and has been known to grow even in cement cracks.

• It cannot grow in shaded conditions but thrives in disturbed forests or edges. Dense clonal thickets displace native species and can rapidly take over fields and meadows.

• Native to Asia, was first introduced into America in 1748 by a Pennsylvania gardener. It was widely planted in cities because of its ability to grow in poor conditions

                                                                                 

Instead of Tree of Heaven

Box Elder, Ash, Black Walnut, Smooth Sumac

Japanese Silver Grass• Miscanthus sinensis• a tall (up to 10 feet), densely-

bunched grass that invades forest edges, old fields, and other disturbed areas throughout the United States

• It escapes from ornamental plantings where it forms large clumps along disturbed areas displacing native vegetation.

• The grass is also extremely flammable and increases fire risks of invaded areas.

• Native to Asia and was introduced into the United States for ornamental purposes.

                           

Instead of Miscanthus

Switchgrass, Little Blue Stem, Muhly Grass

Privet• Ligustrum lucidum, L.

japonicum and L. sinense• Thick, semi-evergreen shrub

to 30 feet in height• It commonly forms dense

thickets in the fields or in the understory of forests.

• It shades and out competes many native species and, once established, is very difficult to remove.

• Introduced into the United States in the early 1800s. It is commonly used as an ornamental shrub and for hedgerows

                                                                    

Instead of Privet …

Winterberry Holly

Possomhaw Viburnum

Chokeberry

Inkberry Holly

Some other plants of concern …

• Periwinkle (Vinca major, minor)• Japanese Stilt Grass

(Microstegium vimineum)• Oriental bittersweet (Celastrus

orbiculata)

• Butterfly Bush (Buddleia – straight species)

• Spreading Euonymous (Euonymus fortunei)

• Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina)

Rehabilitation and Restoration

• Replace invasive plants you have removed with non-invasive, and if possible, native plants, in order to:– Control erosion– Fill space so invasives don’t return

Replacement Plant Material• Know your plants’ identities and habits • Buy nursery-propagated plant material and know

the identity of the plants you install• Learn about native plants and match them with

site conditions• Use plants that occur together in natural habitats• Beware of the “Trojan Horse” – if it sounds too

good to be true, it probably is

New Plant Selection• Choose drought-resistant plants to lower your

maintenance costs• Choose plants with ultimate size in mind – consider the

many dwarf evergreens • Consider selection for seasonal interest and color – not

just spring and summer flower, and fall color, but berries, interesting bark, seed heads, etc.

• Use natives where possible – they are more drought resistant and you won’t spread competing species to naturalized areas; remove invasives!

• If deer are a problem – your selection will be limited!

In Summary

• A successful garden design relies on getting a good handle on your requirements and performing a thorough site analysis

• Garden design is an iterative process – it relies on principles of all good design

• Planting design relies on these principles as well – most importantly keep it simple and use the right plant/right place

Design Principles Review• Garden and planting design relies on principles of all good

design:– Keep the garden elements in Balance– Keep Scale and Proportion in mind; think rooms, each

with an appropriately sized Focal Point– Keep it simple – look for Unifying elements such as

Repetition, Rhythm and Transition– Provide Contrast through color, texture and all season

interest

Some questions to ask about your garden …

• Is there a strong focal point, or is everything about equal in weight?– If the latter, consider adding a specimen plant,

a beautiful outdoor sculpture, or a showy container planting

• Is the garden too busy with color or texture?– Move plants around to create more unity, or

add a few repeating plants

More questions …

• Is there adequate contrast?– Maybe adding perennials would bring more

depth through varying textures• Are the plants in proportion to the house?

Are the plants a livable scale?– If you have overgrown plants, consider

removing them and replace them with varieties that won’t overwhelm

Enjoy your garden …

Give fools their gold, and knaves their power; let fortune’s bubbles rise and fall. Who sows a field, or trains a flower, or plants a tree,is more than all …”John Greenleaf Whittier

Kathy Zimmerman