mozaic: french cuisine, balinese flavours

4th Proof Title: Mozaic Job No: CW0511-26/Sally

Embark on a culinary discovery of Bali, where the wild and inventive gourmet imaginings of chef-visionary Chris Salans have taken root. His multi-award-winning Mozaic restaurant – located in the cultural enclave of Ubud, Bali – is famous for the innovative use of both everyday and exotic Indonesian ingredients, prepared using classic French cooking techniques and presentation. The resulting fl avours are sometimes surprising, but more often subtly nuanced, with unusual taste profi les that will titillate the most jaded of palates. Chef Salans calls his culinary oeuvre – borne out of years of research, and trial and error – French-Balinese gastronomy. This collection of recipes – many of them Mozaic classics – are organised around 17 local ingredients that are essential to Chef Salans’ cuisine. While some ingredients are commonly found in other parts of the world, others are unique to Bali and will inspire the home cook to embrace the creative approach to food for which Mozaic has become famous. Presenting fresh and exciting fl avour combinations as well as new interpretations of old classics, Mozaic: French Cuisine, Balinese Flavours will introduce you to the magic ofChef Salans’ cuisine, and allow aspiring home cooks to recreate the Mozaic experiencein their own homes.

U.S. $35.00

Mozaic: French Cuisine, Balinese Flavours combines the fresh, exciting fl avours of Bali with the classic cooking techniques of the West to produce a cuisine that is renowned not only in its home in Bali, Indonesia, but throughout the culinary world. The story of Chef Chris Salans and his award-winning Mozaic restaurant is told through a collection of recipes that not only tantalise the palate, but show readers what can be achieved when quality ingredients are combined with spontaneity and imagination. The recipes are organised around 17 ingredients found in Bali and elsewhere in Indonesia, all of which are keys to the inspiration behind the sublime dishes at Mozaic. Each key ingredient in the recipe section is introduced with information on its origin, character and use in local cuisine, followed by notes from Chef Salans and tips on their selection and handling, and suggestions for sourcing and substitutes, if any.

Born to a French mother and American father, Chef Salans recognised his calling as a chef at a young age. Eschewing a career as a doctor for training at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, he has worked for luminaries such as David Bouley and Thomas Keller. In 1996, Chef Salans helmed the restaurant at The Legian in Bali, where he began a real love affair with the bright fl avours and unique tastes of Balinese food and ingredients. His ability to apply classic French skills and techniques to the produce of Bali has won him legions of fans from all over the world.

Diana DarlingDiana Darling is a freelance writer and editor. She is the author of The Painted Alphabet: A Novel Based on a Balinese Tale, a former editor-in-chief of Latitudes magazine and has published numerous essays on Balinese society. Diana was born in the United States and moved to Europe in 1973, where she lived in Italy and Paris carrying out independent work as a sculptor. She has lived in Bali since 1980 and is currently working on a novel about the serial invasions of Bali in the 20th century. Philippe HeurtaultFrench photographer Philippe Heurtault was born in France in 1952 and fi rst discovered the mysteries of the darkroom at age 16. His passion for photography led him to work with fashion legends such as Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint-Laurent in the 1970s. Known for his work in magazines like Vogue, Playboy and Vanity Fair, Philippe has also worked for advertising agencies such as Publicis and McCann Erickson. He divides his time between France and Southeast Asia.

FRENCH CUISINE, BALINESE FLAVOURSBY CHRIS SALANS

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VANILLA BEAN 31

mozaic of cuttlefi sh and exotic fruitswith vanilla dressing 33

vanilla-roasted gindara, braised endives and wild mushrooms with grape-red wine reduction and aromatic ginger sauce 34

CASSIA BARK 37

chocolate mousse with cassia bark,cocoa crisps and kumquats 38

cassia-confi ed veal with curried jerusalem artichokes, cocoa coulis and cassia foam 40

TORCH GINGER FLOWER 43

ginger fl ower sorbet with fresh strawberries and lime leaves 44

sesame-crusted tuna with tomato, belimbing wuluh and rosewater apple salad, and ginger fl ower relish 46

truffl e-steamed coral trout with grilled watermelon salad, purple carrot purée and pomegranate-torch ginger coulis 48

TEMPEH 51

tempeh-crusted king snapper with yellow bell pepper sauce and asian greens 52

crispy seared sweetbread and truffl e linguini with a tempeh-truffl e crumble 54

BLACK RICE 57

black rice bread 58

mandarin sorbet with bubur injin andblack rice crisps 60

KLUWEK NUT 63

steamed squab and wilted greens in a kluwek broth with fresh galangal 64

grilled thunderfi sh with kluwek-black olive sauce, sambal kluwek and bell peppers 66

CURRY LEAF 69

curry leaf-steamed bass, burnt caulifl ower, trumpet mushrooms and curry meunière 70

slow-roasted lamb with a curry leaf-infused demi-glaçe, eggplant caviar, cardamom reduction and fresh yoghurt 72

PEPPERCORNS 75

tabia bun-marinated venison with wilted cabbage salad, tenggulun berry-infused red wine reduction and toasted spices 76

green peppercorn-chocolate mousse with lime glaze and peppercorn-wine reduction 78

ceviche of langoustine on the half shell with andaliman pepper and caviar 80

contents

FOREWORD 7

PREFACE 9

ABOUT CHRIS SALANS AND MOZAIC 13

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF MOZAIC 22

ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS AND RECIPES 29

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JACKFRUIT 83

young jackfruit and cèpe mushroom soup with cèpe satays 84

rack of lamb with balsamic reduction, cardamom gelée and jackfruit salad 86

crispy duck and young jackfruit civet with ripe jackfruit relish and wild cress sauce 88

STARFRUIT AND BELIMBING WULUH 91

pan-seared foie gras with sweet and sour belimbing wuluh broth 92

carpaccio of starfruit, belimbing wuluh, strawberries and mint 95

ROOT SPICES: GALANGAL, GINGER AND TURMERIC 97

langoustines in a tea of bumbu kuning 98

seasonal exotic fruits marinated inspiced passion fruit broth 100

wagyu carpaccio in rendang oil with cèpe mushrooms and parmesan emulsion 102

BASA GEDE 105

crispy pork belly marinated in basa gede, curried onion stew and parmesan foam 106

basa gede-confi ed salmon fi llet with gingered apple purée, salad and caviar 108

TAMARIND 111

rock lobster with rujak sauce,barley risotto and girolle mushrooms 112

langoustines wrapped in mushroomswith basa gede-rujak dressing 114

LIMES: KAFFIR, KALAMANSI AND LEMO 117

kalamansi sorbet with vanilla risottoand pineapple confi t 118

barramundi confi t with kaffi r gelée, kaffi r lime dressing and shaved fennel salad 120

NUTMEG AND MACE 123

nutmeg sorbet with snake fruit confi tand sprite-kaffi r leaf emulsion 125

pan-seared foie gras with apple,saffron and nutmeg purée 126

PALM SUGAR 129

palm sugar and coffee-marinated wagyu beef tenderloin with mamey sapote purée 131

turmeric-chocolate fondant and palm sugar ice cream with asian salad 132

DURIAN 135

durian mousse with jackfruit sorbet,milk crisps and cassia emulsion 136

durian-chocolate caramelised fi lo with black rice sauce and coconut emulsion 138

TECHNIQUES 140

GLOSSARY 141

INDEX 142

MOZAIC – THE PEOPLE 144



8



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preface

For over 15 years, Bali has been my home, my host and my inspiration. Over those years, I have

admired this beautiful island and she, in turn, has provided me with a bounty of amazing ingredients

that have allowed me to create Mozaic and its signature tastes. Like many of you, I have longed for this

cookbook for some time and it fi nally gives me great pleasure to be able to share my experiences and

my passion for Bali as a chef, restaurateur and resident. Bali is undeniably famous for its rich culture,

generous people, and stunning beaches and surf. While these attractions have helped make her what

she is to so many people today, I hope to do my part in helping put Bali and the Indonesian terroir on

the culinary world map.

I wanted to share what Bali has given me in terms of ingredients and rich culinary culture, as it has

helped me fi nd my footing in the culinary world. Browsing the traditional markets, having family, friends

and suppliers introduce me to unexpected tastes and fl avours – it is through these daily discoveries

that I have been able to create magic at Mozaic. Embarking on this project, though, I had no idea of the

work, time and commitment involved in translating my embryonic ideas into what was to become this

cookbook you now hold in your hands.

To this end, some key people have been instrumental in sharing their professional knowledge and

helping to bring this book to reality, and I would like to sincerely thank them. My thanks and gratitude

go to Philippe Heurtault for his beautiful images, writer Diana Darling for her evocative words and my

publisher, Editions Didier Millet, and its team led by managing editor Francis Dorai.

Before you embark on this culinary adventure with me, I must thank Miele and Schott Zwiesel, who

believed in this ambitious project and supported me from the outset.

I cannot go further without thanking the Mozaic team, whom I have come to regard as my second

family: chef de cuisine James Ephraim, general manager Nicola Scarramuzzino, restaurant manager

and sommelier Cok Senajaya and the rest of the Mozaic staff, as well as my public relations consultant

Maryse LaRocque, without whom this book would never have happened.

I want to thank those closest to me: my parents, who helped make me who I am today, my lovely

wife Erni and our children Nicolas and Laura. Without them, Bali may never have become my home.

I hope this book entices you to come to Bali and discover another side of the Island of the Gods.

This book is my way of paying homage to the beautiful, mystical and magical island of Bali.

Bon appétit

Chris Salans



FRENCH CUISINE, BALINESE FLAVOURS BY CHRIS SALANS22



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1st Proof Title: Mozaic Job No: W0411-21/Sally

1. Mozaic’s garden where local fruit, spices and aromatic herbs are grown for guests to sample during cooking classes and private dinners in the Workshop.

2. Left to right: general manager Nicola Scaramuzzino, Chris Salans and James Ephraim discuss the evening’s guest list.

3. Daily arrivals of fresh fruit and vegetables infl uence Chris and James in their creation of new culinary delights.

4. Chef de cuisine James Ephraim conducting a cooking class in the Workshop.5. Breads and rolls are baked fresh every morning. 6. Kitchen staff preparing for the evening.7. Planning menus and wine pairings. Each dish on the menu is carefully paired

with a wine so guests may enjoy thoughtfully selected wines with each of the menus served at Mozaic.

8. Imported kitchenware is at the heart of the French technique underlying Mozaic’s cuisine.

9. Tables are set in the afternoon with great care.

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF MOZAIC

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1. Upon arrival, guests are shown into the Mozaic lounge for a drink and complimentary canapés while looking over the night’s menu.

2. In the kitchen, fresh herbs and fl owers are set out ready to be used as garnishes.3. The dining table at a Mozaic private dinner, held in the Workshop, where Chris or

James cook for the guests. 4. A table in the pavilion where guests dine on the covered verandah overlooking

the beautiful Mozaic gardens.5. Weddings, birthdays and anniversaries are thoughtfully accompanied by

beautiful and tasteful cakes prepared by Mozaic’s pastry team.6. Petits fours and coffee or tea signal the end of a wonderful meal.7. Chris in action in his Miele kitchen, cooking for a private group of diners in the

Mozaic Workshop.8. The garden, where guests dine outdoors amongst the lush greenery and under

the wonderful night sky of Bali.9. The Mozaic lounge where guests are invited to pre- and post-dinner drinks while

listening to some jazz. The lounge also offers a tapas-style menu for those who would prefer a casual nibble.

10. The bar where cocktails and mixed drinks are created, using the same innovative approach Chris applies to his cuisine.

11. Chris and James work together daily to create new recipes. 12. Pots and bains maries fi lled with sauces – the true secret of French cuisine.13. A table on the verandah of Mozaic’s dining pavilion.

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25A DAY IN THE LIFE OF MOZAIC



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29

ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS AND RECIPES

The recipes in this chapter are organised around 17 local ingredients found in Bali, selected by Chris

Salans as important keys in his culinary palette and the inspiration behind his sublime creations at

Mozaic restaurant in Ubud, Bali. Some are spices and herbs, some are tropical fruits, some are local

foods and some are aggregates of fl avourings. A few – like coconut palm sugar, black rice and tempeh

– are commonly used in Bali, but are little known outside the region. All are distinctively Indonesian,

and it’s the innovative incorporation of Indonesian ingredients with French cooking techniques that

gives the cuisine of Mozaic the particular character for which it has become famous.

For each ingredient, Chris has devised two or three recipes. These demonstrate not only the

versatility of the ingredient – often appearing both in savoury dishes and desserts – but also the

creative approach to cooking that Chris hopes to communicate to others. Innovation in cuisine, he

believes, begins with investigating the unknown – discovering unfamiliar ingredients, exploring their

fl avours and textures, and experimenting to fi nd new uses and combinations. Because the food at

Mozaic is served in a series of small tasting portions, many of the savoury dishes in this book can be

served either as an appetiser or a main course, depending on the size of the meat, fi sh or seafood

portion. You can, therefore, serve as many or as few courses as you wish. At Mozaic, diners can choose

from four different six-course set menus – Discovery Menu, Chef’s Tasting Menu, Surprise Menu and

Vegetarian Menu, with optional wine pairings at an additional cost.

Each ingredient in this recipe section is introduced with information on its origin, character and use

in local cuisine, followed by notes from Chris with tips on their selection and handling, suggestions

for sourcing and substitutes, if any. The ingredients highlighted in these recipes were chosen for their

special qualities, but many other local ingredients are also included in the recipes, and these are briefl y

discussed in the Glossary (see page 141). Some of the basic cooking techniques, like roasting garlic,

making a demi-glaçe or zesting citrus fruit etc, are covered in Techniques (see page 140).

opposite Balinese ingredients presented to diners as part of the Discovery Menu. Top to bottom: snake fruit, torch ginger, kalamansi lime, laksa leaf, kluwek nut and belimbing wuluh.




cassia-confi ed veal with curried jerusalem artichokes, cocoa coulis and cassia foamABOUT THE RECIPE: Cassia bark, most often associated with sweet dishes, also comes into its own in savoury creations. Its sweet fl avour and heady aroma is intoxicating when used by itself, but new levels of depth and complexity can be achieved when it’s combined with other fl avours. The components of this dish showcase several applications of cassia bark: in a vinegar, a marinade, a sauce and an emulsion. It’s also paired with a spicy curry powder, aromatic curry leaves and bitter cocoa to demonstrate its astounding versatility. What more could you ask for?

*Elements of this recipe should be prepared 1 week in advance.

PORTION: Serves 6 as an appetiser or 3 as a main course DIFF ICULTY LEVEL:

1st Proof Title: Mozaic Job No: W0411-21/Janet


41CASSIA BARK


METHOD

Prepare the cassia vinegar at least 1 week in advance. Dry roast the cassia bark in a pan until it’s fragrant and place it in a heatproof glass jar. Bring the vinegar to the boil and pour it over the cassia bark. Close the jar and store it at room temperature and away from light for 1–2 weeks before use.

Make the mixture for the cassia foam in advance. Bring the water, cassia bark, orange zest, sugar and vanilla to the boil, then simmer over medium heat until the liquid has reduced by half. Allow to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for 12 hours.

To make the cocoa coulis, combine all the ingredients and whisk them until smooth. Simmer over low heat until the consistency of the sauce is suitable for drizzling on a plate. Strain and set aside. If the sauce is too thick after it has cooled, add a little hot water to adjust its consistency.

To prepare the artichokes, heat the chicken stock with the butter and thyme, then add the artichokes. Simmer until they are al dente (this should take at least 15–20 minutes). Strain and refrigerate. When they are cold, cut them into ½ cm slices. Keep refrigerated until use.

Strain the chilled liquid for the cassia foam. Bring it to the boil, then add cassia vinegar and salt to taste. The addition of the vinegar will balance out the sweetness and, with the salt, will give it a more savoury fl avour. Add the soya lecithin and blend the liquid with a hand blender to develop a strong foam. Add more soya lecithin if needed. Set aside.

To prepare the veal, combine the juniper berries, orange zest and cassia powder and rub the mixture into the meat. Cover with cling fi lm and refrigerate, allowing it to marinate for 45 minutes. Preheat the oven to 60°C. Remove the excess marinade and season the meat with salt and pepper. Dry roast the cassia bark in a pan over medium heat and break the bark into medium-sized pieces. Place the veal, cassia bark and oil in a roasting pan, making sure the oil covers the meat by at least 1 cm (add more oil if needed) and place it in the oven. After 30 minutes, turn the meat over and cook for another 30 minutes. Remove the veal from the oven, take it out of the oil and drain it on paper towels, then season with salt and pepper. Heat a little oil in a pan and sear the meat until it’s brown all over. This shouldn’t take longer than 1 or 2 minutes as the meat shouldn’t be cooked further, only seared.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the garlic, thyme and butter, using this mixture to baste the meat for 1 minute. Remove the veal and drain it on paper towels.

Meanwhile, prepare the demi-glaçe. Dry roast the cassia bark in a pan over medium heat until it’s fragrant. With the bark still in the pan, deglaze with the stock and simmer until the stock is reduced by half. Add the demi-glaçe and bring to the boil. Add the curry leaves, place a lid on the pan, remove it from heat and allow it to infuse for 10 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper and set aside.

To cook the artichokes, combine the Madras curry powder and plain fl our. Dry the slices of artichoke with paper towels, and season with salt and white pepper. Lightly coat the slices with the fl our mixture, then shake them to remove any excess coating.

Heat a thin fi lm of oil in a hot pan and sear the artichoke slices until they are golden-brown. Turn the heat to low and, with the artichokes still in the pan, add the garlic and curry leaves. Cook until the leaves are fried and crispy. Add the butter and shallots. Once the butter starts foaming, add the parsley and wait for 5 seconds. Deglaze with lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and use immediately.

To assemble, drizzle the plates with the cocoa coulis. Divide the artichokes between the plates. Slice the veal and arrange it over the artichokes. Drizzle the meat with the hot demi-glaçe. Pour the butter from the artichoke pan over the meat and around the plate. Drop a few spoonfuls of the cassia emulsion around the meat. Garnish each plate with a fresh herb sprig and serve immediately.

TIPS

Due to recent overuse, foams are becoming less “fashionable” now. However, I fi nd them incomparable – when not overdone. There are certain sauces that, if not lightened by foaming, would be overly rich and possibly overpowering, a common criticism of classic French cuisine.

For information on setting very low oven temperatures, see Techniques (page 140).

INGREDIENTS

Cassia Vinegar7 cm cassia bark100 ml distilled white vinegar

Cassia Foam250 ml water20 cm cassia bark¼ orange, zest only, peeled¼ vanilla bean, split in half½ tsp sugarCassia Vinegar, to taste (recipe above)salt, to taste¼ tsp soya lecithin (or more if needed)

Cocoa Coulis2 tbsp cocoa powder3 tbsp liquid glucose3 tbsp water

Artichokes300 ml chicken stock, see Techniques (page 140)15 g butter, unsalted 2 sprigs thyme250 g Jerusalem artichokes, peeledsalt and white pepper, to taste3 tbsp Madras curry powder3 tbsp plain fl oursalad oil, as needed 10 cloves garlic, roasted 10 fresh curry leaves15 g butter, unsalted3 tbsp shallots, fi nely chopped3 tbsp fl at leaf parsley, chopped½ lemon, juice only

Veal4 juniper berries½ tsp orange zest, fi nely grated¼ tsp cassia bark powder500 g veal loin, cleanedsalt and black pepper, to taste50 g cassia bark250 ml salad oil 1 tbsp salad oil1 clove garlic, crushed1 sprig thyme 5 g butter, unsalted

Cassia Demi-Glaçe7 cm cassia bark50 ml chicken stock150 ml beef demi-glaçe, see Techniques (page 140)1 sprig curry leavessalt and black pepper, to taste

Garnish6 fresh herb sprigs of your choice

coating

sautéing

searing and basting




truffl e-steamed coral trout with grilled watermelon salad, purple carrot puréeand pomegranate-torch ginger coulis

INGREDIENTS

Pata Negra8 slices pata negra ham, thinly sliced

Fish320 g coral trout fi llet, 8 x 40 g or 4 x 80 g pieces 2 tbsp truffl e oilsalt and white pepper, to taste16 slices black truffl esea salt, to taste

Watermelon Salad200 g watermelon, skin on, cut into 1½ cm slices40 pomegranate seeds2 tbsp truffl e oil2 tsp chives, choppedsalt and white pepper, to taste

Purple Carrot Purée80 g purple carrots, peeled and chopped80 ml fresh pomegranate juice15 g buttersalt and white pepper, to taste

Coulis500 ml fresh pomegranate juice1 torch ginger fl ower, fi nely chopped

Garnish4 fresh herb sprigs of your choice

METHOD

For the pata negra, preheat the oven to 160°C. Set aside 4 slices for later use. The remaining 4 slices are to be made into crispy pata negra. Line a baking tray with a silicone mat or baking paper and place the ham slices on it. Lay another silicone mat on top of the ham. Bake for 15–18 minutes, or until dry and crisp. Allow to cool to room temperature and store in an airtight container.

To marinate the fi sh, season the pieces of coral trout with half the truffl e oil, salt and pepper. Place 2 black truffl e slices on top of each piece of fi sh and wrap them individually with cling fi lm. Refrigerate.

For the salad, char-grill one side of the watermelon on a very hot grill for few seconds, or until there are dark, criss-cross grill marks on the fruit (don’t grill the other side). Chill immediately in the refrigerator to stop the cooking process (the watermelon must remain crunchy). When cold, cut it into cubes and set aside at room temperature.

To make the purple carrot purée, simmer the carrots in pomegranate juice with the butter and a little salt, until the carrots are tender. Blend everything into a smooth purée in a processor and strain. Adjust the texture of the purée with a little pomegranate juice, so it’s nice and smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then set aside.

For the coulis, boil the pomegranate juice and the ginger fl ower until it has reduced to approximately 60 ml, and its consistency is suitable for plate decorating. Strain and set aside.

To cook the fi sh, steam the trout in the cling fi lm until it’s cooked rare (approximately 4–5 minutes for 40 g pieces and 7–8 minutes for 80 g pieces). Meanwhile, assemble the watermelon salad by tossing the grilled watermelon cubes and pomegranate seeds with the truffl e oil, chives, salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle each plate with the coulis, and arrange the salad and 2 small scoops, or quenelles, of purple carrot purée on each plate. Remove the cling fi lm from the fi sh, then season it with sea salt and the remaining truffl e oil. Arrange 2 pieces of fi sh on each plate. Garnish with 1 slice of fresh and 1 slice of crispy pata negra ham, and fresh herb sprigs.

TIP

At Mozaic, we make our own truffl e oil. We fi ll a jar with truffl es, cover it to the brim with salad oil, seal the jar, and place the jar in the freezer for 2–3 weeks before using the oil.

ABOUT THE RECIPE: This is one of those recipes that still charms me after all these years as a chef. For a long time, I have been working on marrying the subtle fl avours of highly prized Western ingredients (such as truffl es) with the fl avours of Indonesia. This recipe is a good example of what we have been able to achieve. The exotic combination of truffl es, torch ginger and pomegranate conspires to produce a truly tantalising dish, one that is truly worth the time and effort we’ve put into its creation. There are many such heavenly marriages made at Mozaic, but you’ll have to come to our restaurant to try them all ...



49CASSIA BARK

2nd Proof Title: Mozaic Job No: W0511-26/Ah De


51

TEMPEHIndonesian/Balinese: tempé

English: tempeh

FOOD CHARACTER

Tempeh is fermented soyabean cake made with whole soyabeans, which

give it a stronger and more textured body than tofu. Its fl avour is mild and

nut-like, evocative of mushrooms, and becomes more pronounced when

fried. Tempeh absorbs fl avours well and is a very versatile food. Its complete

protein content makes tempeh a popular meat substitute, with the added

nutritional value of soyabeans.

PHYSICALS

Tempeh is made by soaking and hulling soyabeans, and then boiling them

until partially cooked. A culturing agent (Rhizopus oligosporus) is introduced,

allowing the mixture to ferment for 24 to 36 hours at 30°C — the ambient

temperature of Java, where tempeh originated. A soft white blanket of

mycelia forms around the beans, binding it into a solid cake. It’s cut into

pieces and, in Indonesia, is traditionally wrapped in banana leaf for sale.

LOCAL USE

Tempeh is a staple food in Bali, Java and parts of Southeast Asia. It’s most

commonly sliced, soaked briefl y in salted water and then deep fried.

It can also be cut into matchsticks and fried with sweet soya sauce and raw

peanuts, or steamed in banana leaf parcels with coconut milk and spices.

A popular dish in Java is tempé bacem, where it’s simmered in coconut

milk, spices and palm sugar, then lightly fried.

NOTES FROM CHEF SALANS

Tempeh is one of those magical ingredients. I fell in love with it the fi rst

time I ate it and I’m still crazy about it today. We eat it at home almost every

day. My wife tells me that most Indonesians would laugh at me because for

them, tempeh is a poor man’s food – the fi rst thing an Indonesian would do

if he rose in society would be to remove tempeh from his diet. But I’m not

Indonesian: I could never give up tempeh.

Selecting the ingredient: In Indonesia, tempeh comes in many forms:

wrapped in a banana leaf, in cling fi lm, or without wrapping; and in shades

of white, light brown, or blackened; each variation of tempeh has a specifi c

use. The blackened tempeh, for instance, is specifi cally used for frying. Fresh

tempeh should be warm to the touch as the enzymes are still active and

release heat. The tempeh should be about 80 percent whole beans and

20 percent mycelia, the fermentation that appears as a white cotton-like

substance. A slight ammoniac smell in fresh tempeh is normal. Whenever

possible, buy fresh tempeh and freeze it yourself just before use to make it

easier to handle. Avoid pre-frozen tempeh as it won’t taste as good.

How to prepare it: Traditionally, tempeh is fried, stir-fried, stewed, grilled

or baked. It’s usually marinated in aromatics before being cooked. In the

recipes that follow, tempeh is not used in the traditional Indonesian way.

We either freeze tempeh and grate it, or deep fry it until crispy.

Substitutes: There is no substitute for tempeh when used in our recipes,

but the good news is that tempeh is commonly found in health food stores

or large supermarkets, sold either chilled or frozen.

opposite Soyabeans are boiled then fermented to make tempeh, which is produced as a cottage industry in Indonesia.this page Tempeh cakes after fermentation in their white blanket of mycelia.




barramundi confi t with kaffi r gelée, kaffi r lime dressing and shaved fennel saladABOUT THE RECIPE: Here is a typical Mozaic recipe that achieves a perfect balance between the infl uences of the East and West. The kaffi r lime offers a heady aroma that no other lime can match, but unfortunately, it’s very bitter. In Indonesian cooking, the leaf is primarily used, but we wanted to focus on the lime itself because of its amazing fragrance. We developed a dressing with a sweet base that would not only counteract the bitterness of the lime, but also allow us to introduce a subtle fl avour – a local fl ower honey. We have some wonderful varieties of honey in Bali, and when we combined the two fl avours, the fusion was perfect – and so versatile. Paired with a crunchy fennel salad and good quality caviar, this dish is a real talking point among Mozaic diners.




INGREDIENTS

Toasted Almonds30 g sliced almonds 1 tbsp egg white1 tsp andaliman pepper, coarsely ground½ tsp white peppercorn, coarsely ground2 tsp kaffi r lime zest, fi nely grated¼ tsp salt2 tbsp brown sugar

Kaffi r Dressing1½ tbsp good quality honey2 tbsp kaffi r lime juice100 ml salad oil1 tsp kaffi r lime zest, fi nely gratedsalt and white pepper, to taste

Jellyorange zest, peeled (to make 2 tsp purée)75 ml orange juice, freshly squeezed3 tsp sugar 14 kaffi r lime leaves, roughly chopped3 tbsp kaffi r lime juice1 tsp plain konnyaku jelly powder (Nutrijell or any other quality brand)1 tbsp olive oilkaffi r lime salt, to taste, see Techniques (page 140)

Fish480 g barramundi fi llets, 6 x 80 g or 3 x 160 g portionssalt and white pepper, to taste olive oil, as needed6 kaffi r lime leaves, bruisedkaffi r lime salt, to taste

Fennel Salad60 g fennel, peeled and fi nely shaved6 mint leaves, fi nely sliced2 kaffi r lime leaves, fi nely sliced1 tbsp Toasted Almonds, crushed (recipe above)2 tbsp Kaffi r Dressing (recipe above)kaffi r lime salt, to tastewhite pepper, freshly ground to taste

Condiments and Garnishes6 tsp caviar6 fresh herb sprigs of your choice

METHOD

For the almonds, mix all the ingredients together and bake in a 130°C oven for 25–30 minutes or until golden-brown. Cool to room temperature and store in an airtight container.

To make the dressing, whisk the honey and lime juice together. Continue whisking and gradually add the salad oil until you have a smooth and thick dressing. Once it’s combined, add the zest and adjust the seasoning.

To make the jelly, cover the orange zest with water and bring it to the boil. Strain and rinse thoroughly. Repeat twice then blend the zest in a mini food processor until it’s smooth. Bring the orange juice and sugar to the boil, then add the lime leaves. Cover, set aside and allow to infuse for 15–20 minutes. Strain. Add the blended orange zest, lime juice and konnyaku jelly powder, and return to the heat. Boil for 1 minute, stirring continuously. Pour into a container so the liquid reaches a depth of 1 cm. Allow to set at room temperature then refrigerate. Cut into 1 x 1 cm cubes and set aside.

At least 1 hour before serving, prepare the fi sh. Preheat the oven to 50°C. Season the fi llets then place them in an ovenproof dish in a single layer, with some space between them so that the fi llets don’t stick together. Add enough olive oil to cover the fi sh by at least 1 cm. Bruise the lime leaves and put them in the oil with the fi sh. Place the tray in the oven and cook for approximately 45 minutes. When ready, the fi sh should look undercooked but break apart easily when pressed with a fork. Remove the tray from the oven and take the fi sh from the oil, draining it on paper towels. Season with sea salt.

Meanwhile, season 12 cubes of jelly to taste with kaffi r lime salt and olive oil.

Prepare the salad by combining all the ingredients and adjusting the seasoning.

Using a spoon, place 1½ tbsp of dressing in the centre of each plate and make a circle with the dressing.

Reheat the confi ed fi sh in a 140°C oven for no more than 1 minute (so that it retains its beautiful colour and texture). Place a piece of fi sh in the centre of the dressing. Top the fi sh with the fennel salad. Garnish each salad with a tsp of caviar and a fresh herb sprig. Serve immediately.

TIPS

To juice kaffi r limes, I let the fruit ripen until it turns yellow. It yields 10 times the amount of juice, and has a much better fl avour than the juice from green kaffi r limes.

For more information on setting very low oven temperatures, see Techniques (page 140).

LIMES: KAFFIR, KALAMANSI AND LEMO 121

Grated kaffi r lime zest (top), Balinese sea salt (middle) and kaffi r lime salt (bottom).

3rd Proof Title: Mozaic Job No: CW0511-6 / YEE PEI


4th Proof Title: Mozaic Job No: CW0511-26/Sally

Embark on a culinary discovery of Bali, where the wild and inventive gourmet imaginings of chef-visionary Chris Salans have taken root. His multi-award-winning Mozaic restaurant – located in the cultural enclave of Ubud, Bali – is famous for the innovative use of both everyday and exotic Indonesian ingredients, prepared using classic French cooking techniques and presentation. The resulting fl avours are sometimes surprising, but more often subtly nuanced, with unusual taste profi les that will titillate the most jaded of palates. Chef Salans calls his culinary oeuvre – borne out of years of research, and trial and error – French-Balinese gastronomy. This collection of recipes – many of them Mozaic classics – are organised around 17 local ingredients that are essential to Chef Salans’ cuisine. While some ingredients are commonly found in other parts of the world, others are unique to Bali and will inspire the home cook to embrace the creative approach to food for which Mozaic has become famous. Presenting fresh and exciting fl avour combinations as well as new interpretations of old classics, Mozaic: French Cuisine, Balinese Flavours will introduce you to the magic ofChef Salans’ cuisine, and allow aspiring home cooks to recreate the Mozaic experiencein their own homes.

U.S. $35.00

Mozaic: French Cuisine, Balinese Flavours combines the fresh, exciting fl avours of Bali with the classic cooking techniques of the West to produce a cuisine that is renowned not only in its home in Bali, Indonesia, but throughout the culinary world. The story of Chef Chris Salans and his award-winning Mozaic restaurant is told through a collection of recipes that not only tantalise the palate, but show readers what can be achieved when quality ingredients are combined with spontaneity and imagination. The recipes are organised around 17 ingredients found in Bali and elsewhere in Indonesia, all of which are keys to the inspiration behind the sublime dishes at Mozaic. Each key ingredient in the recipe section is introduced with information on its origin, character and use in local cuisine, followed by notes from Chef Salans and tips on their selection and handling, and suggestions for sourcing and substitutes, if any.

Born to a French mother and American father, Chef Salans recognised his calling as a chef at a young age. Eschewing a career as a doctor for training at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, he has worked for luminaries such as David Bouley and Thomas Keller. In 1996, Chef Salans helmed the restaurant at The Legian in Bali, where he began a real love affair with the bright fl avours and unique tastes of Balinese food and ingredients. His ability to apply classic French skills and techniques to the produce of Bali has won him legions of fans from all over the world.

Diana DarlingDiana Darling is a freelance writer and editor. She is the author of The Painted Alphabet: A Novel Based on a Balinese Tale, a former editor-in-chief of Latitudes magazine and has published numerous essays on Balinese society. Diana was born in the United States and moved to Europe in 1973, where she lived in Italy and Paris carrying out independent work as a sculptor. She has lived in Bali since 1980 and is currently working on a novel about the serial invasions of Bali in the 20th century. Philippe HeurtaultFrench photographer Philippe Heurtault was born in France in 1952 and fi rst discovered the mysteries of the darkroom at age 16. His passion for photography led him to work with fashion legends such as Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint-Laurent in the 1970s. Known for his work in magazines like Vogue, Playboy and Vanity Fair, Philippe has also worked for advertising agencies such as Publicis and McCann Erickson. He divides his time between France and Southeast Asia.

FRENCH CUISINE, BALINESE FLAVOURSBY CHRIS SALANS

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mozaic: french cuisine, balinese flavours

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