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MySpot 200Installation Procedure (Asphalt)

19JUL2007

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Concrete or Asphalt?

The procedure is different for concrete and for asphalt surfaces.

If the surface is concrete, close this manual and select the “Concrete installation” manual

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Mounting Option A

Replace the asphalt with areas of concrete

This will provide the most reliable and the strongest mounting surface

Once the concrete is dry, proceed with the “mounting on concrete” instructions

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Mounting Option B

Use 3rd party asphalt chemical anchors

You drill an oversize hole, fill it with epoxy, then drop a special insert anchors into the hole

The kits are available from Hilti and other manufacturers

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Mounting Option C

Use construction-grade adhesive to glue the plates to the surface

Asphalt must be in excellent condition

Not suitable for hot climates because asphalt softens

This is the easiest but somewhat less reliable solution

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Mounting Option D Use Designated Parking’s

SP14/7 spike anchors in combination with adhesive

Both spike and the adhesive are optional and are not part of the MySpot 200 kit

A step-by-step procedure is described in this manual

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Locating the MySpot 200The unit is placed so that,

when the car is parked the barrier is ahead of the

rear wheels but does not interfere with

the access to the front doors.

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Install in Middle

Only install the unit in the middle of the space

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Space Requirements

Surface must be flat No standing water No high points

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Inspect the CartonA: PowerPod (includes the

electronics and the mechanism)

B: IdlePodC: BarrierD: (2) remote controlsE: Parts kitF: Drilling Template

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Where to Place the Unit

Place the template “TT” as shown

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Direction of Template

The template must be perpendicular to the edge of the parking space

Note the direction of the arrow on the template

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Drill Pilot Holes

Use a small (6mm, ¼”) drill to mark the 7 holes by drilling through the template into the surface

Do not drill directly with the larger drill

Remove template Verify that all 7 holes are

clearly visible

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Drill 7 holes

Use a 17mm (5/8”) masonry drill

Drill precisely where the 7 small holes were marked

Drill to a depth of 36cm (14”) or more

Blow holes clean when done

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Fill Holes with Adhesive

Squirt adhesive into the holes

Only fill to about half the depth

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Hammer Spikes The spikes are provided

with protective bolts Do not remove the bolts Hammer the spikes until

the top of the spike is flush with the ground

The bolt head must be above ground

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Clean Surface

Broom sweep the area where the bolts are located and where the plates will be mounted

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Remove Screws

Removed the bolts and washers from the 7 anchors

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Separate Plates from Pods

Remove 4 security bolts from PowerPod

Remove 2 security bolts from IdlePod

Separate the pods from the plates

Apply Adhesive

Hold each of the plates upside down

Apply the adhesive in a zigzag pattern

Cover the entire area, especially the perimeter

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Attach Plates Place the plates so the

large holes align with the spikes

Use large washers and bolts from anchors (7 sets)

Secure plates to ground Do not tighten yet

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Check alignment

Bend or cut the template as shown

Place template between plates

Adjust plates until aligned parallel to edges of template

Verify that there is less than 4mm (1/8”) gap between template and plates

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Tighten Screws

Once the alignment has been confirmed, tighten the 7 bolts of the anchors

If any bolt will not tighten (anchor slips), remove anchor, use some filler and reapply anchor

It is essential that all 7 anchors share the load

Caulk Edges of Plates Stand on the plates to

force excess adhesive to the edges

Apply a bead of adhesive around the perimeter of the 2 plates

The purpose is to seal the edges of the plates so that water does not enter under the plates

This is particularly critical if the ground is subject to freezing at any time

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Attach PowerPod

Use the 4 security bolts and washers that came with the IdlePod assembly to secure the pod to the plate

If the wrong bolts are used (too long), they will push the plates out of the ground

Tighten the 4 bolts securely

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Disassemble IdlePod

The IdlePod needs to be attached to its plate using 3 bolts

To access the 3rd bolt, the cover needs to be removed

Use the security wrench to remove the 3 bolts

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Remove Cover

Lift the cover of the IdlePod

Lift the shaft The 3rd hole may be

protected by a plastic insert

Remove the insert by pushing it from the top

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Prepare IdlePod Plate

Place 2 adaptors over the 2 outside holes in the plate

If these adaptors are not in your kit, proceed without them

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Attach IdlePod Use security bolt, star

washer and flat washer to attach the 2 outside ears of the pod to the plate

Use a black Allen bolt with star washer and flat washer for the middle attachment point

Make sure all bolts are the proper length; bolts that are too long will push the plate off the ground

Tighten all 3 bolts

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Place Shaft in IdlePod Place the shaft back so

that the slot fits over the bar in the base

The cowling on the shaft must be free to fall forward (towards the entrance to the space)

If it is not, rotate the shaft 180 degrees before placing it on the base

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Close Cover of IdlePod Place the cover over the

IdlePod Make sure it is seated

correctly Secure in place using 3

security bolts with star washers

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WARNING Failure to use the

internal bolt for mounting the IdlePod to the plate will cause the IdlePod ears to break off and void the warranty

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Install the Barrier Slide the barrier over the

cowlings of the 2 pods as shown

The barrier should be kept parallel to the ground as it is being installed

Only minimal force is required

If excessive force is required, check the alignment of the pods

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Secure the Barrier

Use the 4 short security bolts and star washers

Tighten securely using the special wrench in the kit

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Ready for Test

The installation is now complete. The next steps cover the test procedure

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The Remotes

2 Remote controls are included in the kit

Each remote can control up to 9 separate barriers

The barrier in the kit was factory programmed to accept the #2 button on each of the 2 remotes

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Terminology

Please study the sketch on the right

Shown are 4 states of the barrier

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Locked Up State This is the normal

“blocking” state Applying moderate force

to the barrier in either direction will not move the barrier

However, if the force exceeds 30 Kg (65 lbs), the barrier will yield

When the excessive force is removed, the barrier will return to the Locked Up state.

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UnLocked State Press the #2 button on

the Remote. The barrier will fall Its new position is the Un

Locked state In this state, the barrier can be raised

by hand with no resistance If raised all the way, it will lock in the

Locked Up position If the barrier was previously manually

raised, when the command drops the barrier to the UnLocked state, the internal motor can be heard running an extra cycle. This is normal

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Locked Down State When a wheel of the car

drives over the barrier, the barrier is pushed to the ground

That is the Overtravel state

When the wheel leaves the barrier, the barrier returns to the Locked Down state

The only way to exit the locked down state is via a remote command

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Testing, continued If the barrier is in the

Unlocked state… …Step on the barrier You need to apply 100 Kg

(220 lbs) to force the barrier to the ground

Jump if your weight is less than that…

The barrier will hit the ground

When you step off, it will rise somewhat to the Locked Down state

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Testing, Last Step Step on the barrier a

second time The barrier needs to be

driven on twice, like a car getting in and out, to prevent accidental raising of the barrier under a parked car

Push the #2 button on the remote

The barrier will rise to the Locked Up position

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Trouble Shooting If you run into a problem

when testing the unit Look up a separate

troubleshooting chart The chart is printed at the

end of the installation manual

Or use the Troubleshooting Wizard available on our web site

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Thank You

Please do not hesitate to contact our hotline+1 973 669 8214 ext 1 during business hours09:00 to 17:00 Eastern Standard Time (GMT -5:00)