mtw mendel max 2.0 electronics guide

8/11/2019 MTW Mendel Max 2.0 Electronics Guide

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MendelMax 2.0 Electronics Guide

Edition 1.5http://www.makerstoolworks.com/

[email protected]

Freenode IRC: #makerstoolworks

Thank you for purchasing the MendelMax 2.0 kit. This is a living document and we

encourage your comments to improve the experience for everyone.

Commenting is enabled in the insert menu.

1st highlight the area of comment, then click Insert -> Comment

Due to changes Google made in the Comment feature, we have had to temporarily disable

public commenting. We hope Google addresses the issues they created with their recent

upgrade, and we will be able to restore this valuable feature. In the meantime, if you have

any comments on our docs, please email [email protected] we will

address them.

Electronics used are both 120/240 VAC and 24 VDC. This makes for both a firehazard and a shock hazard. As this is sold as a kit, it is your responsibility to

ensure it is safe. The safety of this machine depends on careful assembly and

operation. We are not liable for any injuries or damages that result from following

this guide. By continuing with this build, you hereby release and hold harmless

Makers Tool Works from any and all liability.
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This document contains the following sections:

Getting Started

Installing the drivers and software

Your First Slice and Prints: Fan and endstop mounts

Connecting to the printer in Pronterface

Getting Started

Now that assembly is complete it is time to get the software side of the setup complete.

Installing the Drivers and Software

Downloading the necessary files

1. Access the Download Center and download the platform-appropriate versions ofthe following files:

Software: Arduino, Printrun, and Slic3r

Drivers (only necessary for Windows at this time), RAMBo or Taurino.

Firmware, be sure to select the appropriate version for RAMBo or RAMPS.

Make sure to download the No endstops version of firmware unless

they are installed on the printer.

2. Unzip all files

3. Get acclimated with all of the different software:

Arduino is an application used to modify, compile, and upload the firmware

to the print controller (both RAMBo and RAMPS)

Using the GLCD on RAMBo requires a special arduino build

Marlin is the firmware that is running on the print controller, interpreting

instructions and powering the different parts of the printer

Printrun, specifically the Pronterface application within it, is the application

for communicating with the printer. It takes manual instructions as well as the
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.makerstoolworks.com%2Fsupport-and-docs%2Fdownload-center%2F&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNHyPyO7Pj98MpLhGXoPM6oZW9GA6g


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toolpaths that Slic3r makes and sends them to the printer

Slic3r is for taking 3D models and converting them into toolpaths (gcode) for

the printer to understand

Getting Arduino IDE configured to upload firmware

If using Windows, it is necessary to first install the RAMBo or Taurino driver that you

previously downloaded.

1. Attach the RAMBo to the computer via the USB cable.

2. Open Device Manager

3. Under Other devices, look for RAMBo

4. Right click RAMBo and select Update Driver Software


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5. Click Browse my computer for driver software


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6. Click the Browse... button and browse to the directory where you have unzipped

the RAMBo drivers, click OK, and then click Next

7. Taking note of the COM port listed in the title of the window, click close


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Uploading the Marlin firmware using Arduino to your print


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controller

1. Provide 24v to all the inputs on the Print controller.

2. Open the previously-downloaded Arduino application by clicking on arduino.exe.

3. Select File: Open. Browse into the directory that you extracted your firmware, then in

the Marlin folder, then selecting the file Marlin.pde or Marlin.ino (whichever exists)


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4. Select Tools: Board: Arduino Mega 2560

5. Select Tools: Serial Port:and then the port that you noted earlier when

installing drivers


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6. Select the Configuration.h tab, here you can review and change all the common

settings and tuning changes.

Note: If you are running linux you need to change the firmware setting in

Configuration.h to #define BAUDRATE 115200

7. Press the Upload button.


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8. Check to see if the upload succeeded if not, troubleshoot the board type, com port,


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and firmware


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Your First Slice and Prints: Fan mount

If you have not yet installed and levelled your heated bed, return to the hardware

documentation to do that return here once that is complete.

As noted before, the workflow for using your 3D printer is converting a model to machine

code using Slic3r, then controlling the actual print using Printrun/Pronterface. Your printer is

now ready to run, but its not ideal: we want to mount the fan on the X carriage using a

bracket rather than zipties.

For a more in-depth guide on Slic3r please check out the new Slic3r Manual (PDF)

Slicing a ModelThe 3D model file types STL and the newer AMF. The model file is fed into a slicer

program that converts the file into Gcode used by the firmware to print the object.

Popular Slicing software:

Slic3r - http://slic3r.org/

Kisslicer - http://kisslicer.com/

Cura - http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Cura

We will use Slic3r in this initial setup. Feel free to experiment with other slicers.

Getting the model, configuring Slic3r, and slicing the fan mount

1. First, download the models to print: they are available in our Download Centerunder

the link Browse STLs on Dropbox download the following models:

40mm Fan Mount.stl
https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dropbox.com%2Fsh%2F3uyotd400xp2ef5%2FAvakF1Vw25%2FSTLs&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNFi6zEIP3VTl3BTIrVe2P5tbL8PtQhttp://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.makerstoolworks.com%2Fsupport-and-docs%2Fdownload-center%2F&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNHyPyO7Pj98MpLhGXoPM6oZW9GA6ghttp://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwiki.ultimaker.com%2FCura&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNGYPeCIMrmAQPMMFfvSxbLES2HQGghttp://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fkisslicer.com%2F&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNEyPbi9g9HfQt40Ym6UpYi4DKwzlQhttp://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fslic3r.org%2F&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNFCiLdZLPSQ_4WhCyhikwa-J0-e3whttps://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropboxusercontent.com%2Fu%2F22464622%2FSlic3r-Manual%2FSlic3r-Manual.pdf&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNFsozMCRAxI9j86xYvFVmwfs5Czhg


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2. Open Slic3r and ignore the first-time setup wizard if prompted, set Slic3r to Expert

Mode

3. Click Add... or drag and drop the 40mm Fan Mount.stl file to the Slic3r main

window, and the shape should appear in the left graph with an entry in the right

column 40mm Fan Mount.stl


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4. Adjust the settings in the following windows to match the pictures below. Make sure

that before you change tabs you press the blue floppy-disk icon to save the

configuration. This will serve as a starting point for your future prints. Notice that

some of the settings are things that should be specific to the object youre printing,

like infill density and speeds.

Note:You can hover over a setting to get more details about it.

Print Settings

Your layer height should always be below 80% of your nozzle diameter, and

we provide a 0.4mm nozzle orifice, meaning that you want to never use more

than a 0.32 mm layer height. The exception to this is in the 1st layer,

however, as this helps your print stick easier. Perimeters (the X and Y

oriented solid edges of an object) and solid layers (the Z solid edges of an

object) are good at 2-3.


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Infill parameters define the solidity of the object fill density can be between

0 (hollow) and 1 (solid). Typically 0.3 (30%) is a nice balance between

strength and print time. The other parameters are beyond the scope of this

documentation.


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Speed is also another parameter that inversely affects your print time and

quality of the print. You can begin with default settings and adjust them faster

later. A slow perimeter speed with faster infill speed is usually ideal.

Some faster speed numbers can be seen here.
https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dropbox.com%2Fs%2Fhs70oza9iqs57iz%2FSpeeds.PNG&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNGbz0e-llNnKJEKyzGtifuXO54Fmg


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Skirt is a loop printed around the object a certain distance away from the

object it is useful to get your hotend primed and the first layer height set

perfectly before the actual object begins printing. For this first print, have it

loop around the printer 3 times, 15 mm away from the object. This will give

you plenty of time to adjust the first layer height.


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Filament Settings

Slic3r has to know the diameter of the filament that you are printing with

generally, 3mm filament is about 2.8 mm.

If you have calipers, measure the diameter on a few points of your

filament and set these values to the average of that. Every time you

change filament, you should measure it and put the diameter value in

here, or your printer may print things with too much or too little plastic(making it hollow or overflowing).

The temperature for your print is also set here the temperatures shown here

work well for PLA. ABS generally prints well at 220C or higher on the

extruder and 100C on the bed.

Note: Keep in mind that filament temperature will vary from

manufacturer to manufacturer and are stated as a general guideline.


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Cooling is also specified on the filament settings tab, as different types of

filament require different cooling requirements. If using PLA, setting the fan to

run at 100% the entire time is fine if using ABS, set the fan to minimum 0%

and maximum 40%. Notice that the fan will be disabled for the first layer tomake adhesion easier. For the rest of the cooling parameters, read the block

of text above that describes the behavior.


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Printer Settings

We need to tell Slic3r how large the printer area is for it to center prints thatswhat this page does for us


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These gcodes will be added before and after any generated toolpaths by

Slic3r this allows you to tell the printer to turn off the heater, fan, and motors.

Note: Initially remove all lines of code except G28 in the "Start

G-code" section. Additional lines of code here may include (G1 Z5

F5000 lift nozzle). This line will result in the extruder being lifted 5mm

from the home position resulting in the print starting 5mm in the air.


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Set the nozzle diameter to the correct value. We ship a 0.4mm orifice.

5. With these settings saved, go back to the Plater tab and press the button labeled

Export G-code it will prompt you for where to save the created .gcode file, which is

the set of instructions for how to print the models you have placed in Slic3r with theconfigurations set.


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In the future, you will only have to adjust these configuration changes when

you wish to tweak a setting (layer height, extrusion temperature, speeds, etc)

otherwise, youll simply drag the objects onto the window and press Export

G-Code.


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Controlling the Printer

There are many good host programs for operating and controlling your printer.

Currently the most popular software is PrintRun http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrun Another newer control software is Repetier Host.

You can download a ready to run copy that doesnt require setting up python at:

http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

Connecting to the printer in Pronterface

The main Pronterface UI

Lets start by getting acclimated remember that Printrun/Pronterface is the main tool that

you use to control your printer.

A) Connection control, B) File control, C) Manual Control, D) Gcode Input, E) Printer

Output, F) Part Preview

a. Connection Control, this is where to select the printers com port and baud rate

speed (for ours, we use 250,000). Once these 2 settings are correct you can click

Connect to establish control. You can also Disconnectand Reset the printer

here.

Note: Most Linux systems require 115200 set here and in the firmwares
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fkoti.kapsi.fi%2F~kliment%2Fprintrun%2F&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNG6AQZBx4W1FaW8VjMonW6hwUAt5Ahttp://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Freprap.org%2Fwiki%2FPrintrun&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNFlbpq0crF2lrVNxk_8cwXgNxj8rQ


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configuration.h.

b. File Control, this allows you to Load and file to print. Once it is loaded you can

begin a Printor Pause, orRestart it.

Other options include Compose to build a platter of several parts, and SD to begin

printing a file from an inserted SD memory card.

c. Manual Control, allows for manual movement and temperature control of the printer.

It offers a range of different motions from .1mm to 100mm. You can also set the

hotend or bed temperature. Lastly you can operate the extruder at different

feedrates.

Note:If you do not have endstops, do not click the Home buttons. The

hotend will likely crash.

d. Gcode Input, allows you to manually send Gcode, the basic control language, to the

printer. A list of the Gcode commands are available here:

http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcode e. Printer Output is where the status of the printer is displayed. Everything from

connection/disconnection messages, commands you send to the printer, and error

states.

f. Part Preview shows a simple representation of the toolpaths (movements,

layer-by-layer) that are loaded to be printed. You can click on this area and get a

preview that allows you to move through the layers by pressing shift and scrolling.

In the settings menu you can adjust the size of this preview area to match the

printers build area.
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Freprap.org%2Fwiki%2FGcode&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNE3PWiYuLXuB3johpWMNLRckEIk_g


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Verify that everything works

Connecting to the printer

Note: When you initially power up the printer verify that NO red LEDs are on. These are theheaters and should only come on when commanded. If a red LED remains on shut off the

printer and seek further support.

1. Connect your printer to the computer using the USB cable.

2. Plug the power cord into your printers IEC plug.

3. Open Printrun/Pronterface and connect to the printer. Remember that all of our

firmware use a 250,000 baud rate, and that the COM port you need to connect to is

the one you saw earlier in Device Manager.

Linux and Mac users will connect to a port like: /dev/tty.usbmodem Linux users should use 115200 baud rate.

4. You should see the manual controls light up and the console output information

about the firmware.

Testing motion

1. Position by hand the X carriage in the middle of the X axis and the Y axis bed in the

middle of the frame. Your Z Axis should be at least 30-50mm above the bed.

2. In Printrun/Pronterface, send the M119 gcode command to get their status. All axes

should read OPEN when the switches are not pressed..

3. Next press and hold each while sending M119, they should report TRIGGERED.

4. In Printrun/Pronterface, click the X Home button (X house icon), the X axis should

move against the X endstop switch and stop moving.

a. If it moves the wrong direction, disconnect power and flip the X axis stepper

motor connectors orientation.

5. In Printrun/Pronterface, click the Y Home button (Y house icon), the Y axis should

move against the Y endstop switch and stop moving.

a. Note: Making the bed move in the negative Y direction actually moves the

bed back away from the front of the printer.

b. If it moves the wrong direction, disconnect power and flip the Y axis stepper


6. In Printrun/Pronterface, click the Z Home button (Z house icon), the Z axis should

move against the Z endstop switch and stop moving.

a. If it moves the wrong direction, disconnect power and flip the Z axis stepper


7. In Printrun/Pronterface, use the manual controls to move each axis around.


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Testing the heaters

1. Check the Monitor Printer box for the temperature graph to come alive check to

see that both of your thermistors (for the hotend and heated bed) are reporting

reasonable room-temperature values (typically, a comfortable room is 19-23c).2. Set the hotend heater to 60c temperature by typing in the number and pressing Set,

watch the temperature gauge. Wait for it to achieve 60c, it will overshoot a little but

should stabilize at 60c.

Note: If the temperature continues rising well past 60c and the red LED

remains on solid shut off the printer and seek further support.

3. Next, set the hotend heater to a reasonable extrusion temperature for your filament

(PLA is 195c, ABS is 235c) degrees by typing in the number and pressing Set

watch to see the heater thermistor temperature change on the graph be certain not

to touch the hotend while it is heated.

4. Once the thermistor has reached the desired temperature, set the extrusion length

to 15 mm and speed to 50 mm/min.

5. Press the Extrude button the hob on the extruder stepper should move clockwise

and the filament should be pulled down into the hotend.

6. Continue to press Extrude until plastic starts to spit out of the nozzle you are

currently priming it.

7. Avoiding touching the hotend, clear the extruded plastic off of the printer.

Tweezers are helpful to have for this task.

1. Set the Bed to a reasonable temperature for your material (60c for PLA, 105c for

ABS) by typing in the number and pressing Set, watch to see the bed thermistor

temperature change on the graph avoid touching the heated bed when above 60c.

PID tuning the hotend and heated bed

PID or proportional-integral-derivative tuning is feedback control loop that helps to maintain

a stable temperature during printing. You should rerun PID if you ever change anything

related to the heating devices.

To generate Proportional, Integral and Derivative values for the hotend or bed (E-1). Send

the appropriate M303 gcode and wait a while for the final output you will use to update and

reupload in the firmware:

Hotend Usage syntax: M303 S C Use: M303 C8 S195

Bed Usage syntax: M303 E-1 S C Use: M303 E-1 C8 S100


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When the PID tune has completed update the following firmware values in

configuration.h as described in the previous section, Uploading the Marlin firmware

using Arduino to your print controller, and upload the newly altered firmware:

#define DEFAULT_Kp

#define DEFAULT_Ki

#define DEFAULT_Kd

Calibrating the Extruder ESTEP

Overextruding would lay down to much filament and cause collisions. You can try

temporarily adjusting it anytime by using the gcode M221:

http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcode#M221:_set_extrude_factor_override_percentage

1. Measure and mark your filament 50mm from where it enters the extruder.

2. Turn on the hotend heater and let it get to temperature.3. Set Pronterface to extrude 50mm at 50mm/min.

4. Extrude the filament and measure the amount that entered the extruder.

a. If it is short of 50mm: Try M221 S105 to extrude 105% relative to your current

esteps.

b. If is more then 50mm: Try M221 S95 to extrude 95% relative to your current

esteps.

5. Continue adjusting the percentage until you are right on 50mm entering the extruder.

6. when you find a better setting that doesn't drag or leave voids you can edit your

DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT (the last value is E) by multiplying it times your new

% here: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/Configuration.h#L322

Replace this value and re-upload your firmware.
https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fgithub.com%2FErikZalm%2FMarlin%2Fblob%2FMarlin_v1%2FMarlin%2FConfiguration.h%23L322&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNEeIgy_sh0dsT3052WMqnmxnwvxZQhttp://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Freprap.org%2Fwiki%2FGcode%23M221%3A_set_extrude_factor_override_percentage&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNHaw22wNHgq-KLK2plIG78oe7HZfA


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.Starting the first print

1. In pronterface, press the Load File button and browse to the .gcode file that you

saved in Slic3r earlier.

2. Wait for the file to load once it has loaded, an image will be displayed in the partpreview window

3. Make sure that your printer thinks it is at 0, 0, 0 by sending the command M114 and

verifying if not, return to the previous section to set it at home.

4. Be ready to unplug power from the printer incase something goes wrong, press the

Print button to begin the print.

Keep in mind that on the first layer, your fan should not turn on (as defined in

your Slic3r cooling settings) this improves adhesion between the plastic and

the glass

5. As the skirt prints around your object, ensure that plastic is flowing smoothly andevenly adhering to the bed. The skirt should be squished flat for good adhesion.

6. In about 15 minutes or so, the print should complete wait for the bed to cool down to

about 30 degrees and then remove the fan mount and skirt from the glass

congratulations on your first print!

Your first printer upgrade: installing the fan mount

1. Cut the zipties free from the fan as it was previously mounted in place.

2. With the smooth side of the print pressing against the X axis carriage, mount the fan

mount to the left-hand side of the carriage using two M3 screws and hex nuts.3. With the fan on the outside of the mount, attach it to the fan mount using two M3

screws most likely, no nuts will be required as the screws will self-tap in the printed

mount if it is loose, use M3 nuts.

4. Attach a screw on plug included with the RAMBo electronics and connect it to

Fan0. You might need to remove any old non-compatible plug from the fan.

Congratulations on your first upgrade!

Congratulations on completing your buildof the MendelMax 2.0 3D printer!We recommend that users now calibrate their printer in Marlin and tweak the settings used

in Slic3r. Here is our recommended tuning guide.
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Freprap.org%2Fwiki%2FTriffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNEB_bZDaeeqZBkL03g-5GlAnjl3xA


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Sections below are for reference to additional, optional software or hardware.

Operating without Endstops

There are some very important things to know about operating your printer withoutendstops:

Every time to turn the printer on it assumes its current position is 0,0,0.

You will initially not be able to move an axis in the negative direction when it is at 0.

Refer to the section below titled: Manually homing without endstops

Avoid clicking the Home axis buttons in Printrun/Pronterface your axes will crash.

Note:Verify that Slic3r does not have Gcode that homes the axes under Printer

Settings : Custom G-Code, typically G28. Remove this Gcode from both Start and EndG-code boxes to prevent axes crashes.

Wiring a PSU Switch

For switching the PSU on and off, you can use a SPST switch we do not offer

documentation at this time as to how to utilize this if you choose to connect this switch, be

certain to consult an electrician. A mounting bracket is available in our download center

that mounts to the side of the bottom frame with M5-10 screws and M5 t-nuts.

Managing your Wiring

There is no correct way to route the wires on our printer. We recommend utilizing zipties to

orient the wiring as close to the frame (or even in some of the channels) and electronics as

possible, well clear of the moving Y axis. When cleaning it up, also be certain to allow

enough slack in the X axis carriage wiring so as to permit both X and Z travel. Poorly

managed wiring will lead to failure resulting from loosened connectors, and may also lead

to electrical fires or shocks as a result of loosening power supply connections.

Ohmeye has written a useful guide that possibly disables the Home buttons (Needs testing)

at: http://www.ohmeye.com/2013/disablingenabling-endstops-in-marlin/
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ohmeye.com%2F2013%2Fdisablingenabling-endstops-in-marlin%2F&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNG_2ISXW7-fA8RGCtkPgLsfQZr3Pw

mtw mendel max 2.0 electronics guide

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