mup year 1st pages - booktopiastatic.booktopia.com.au/pdf/9780522857825-1.pdfmup year 1st pages.indd...

SeptemberOctoberNovember

Spring

MUP YEAR 1ST PAGES.indd xiv-1MUP YEAR 1ST PAGES.indd xiv-1 4/6/10 12:51:35 PM4/6/10 12:51:35 PM

2 SEASONS IN MY GARDEN

It’s surely impossible not to become excited as

spring arrives. Signs of new life are everywhere,

from newborn lambs, wobbling on uncertain legs

on fresh green grass, new shoots unfurling lime-

green on bare branches, to fi elds suddenly waking

with the bloom of thousands of bulbs.

In the garden the promise of spring heightens

each day. The early-morning air is milk-soft; warm

and scented. Buds are fattening on wisteria and

garden beds are bursting with colour. The daffodils

and wattle are out, lighting the day, along with our

hearts, with their golden shimmer.

And, as the soil warms, we prepare to plant more

vegetables. It’s not surprising that there has been

a steep increase in the sale of fruit and vegetable

seedlings over the past few years: war in many

parts of the world and economic stresses have

shocked many into turning to soothing activities

like gardening. We are all nesting, perhaps. As

well, many of us are rejecting foods that have been

sprayed with chemicals, or genetically modifi ed.

There has never been more information, and

more organic products, available to make

growing your own food easier, and safer.

Spring Flowering now

All climates� Daffodil and other spring bulbs

� Kangaroo paw

Trees� Angophoras, throughout Sydney

� Bauhinias� Brachychitons, jacaranda

� Native frangipani� Silky oak� Tree waratah (Alloxylon fl ammeum)

Cool climates� Clematis� Fritillarias� Japanese iris� Solomon’s seal

Trees� Crab-apple� Lilac� Ornamental and fruiting prunus

� Philadelphus� Tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)

Temperate climates� Anthurium� Clematis� Early roses, including the Banksian roses

� Grevilleas� Iris� Love-in-the-mist� Orchids, including dendrobiums, cymbidiums and coelogynes

� Osmanthus� Rock roses� Wisteria

Subtropical & tropical climates� Anthuriums� Orchids, including dendrobiums, cymbidiums and coelogynes

� Torch gingers

Trees� Grevilleas� Ivory curl tree (Buckinghamia celsissima)

� Jacarandas� Poinciana� Tree waratah (Alloxylon fl ammeum)

Plant now

All climates� Sunfl owers

Fruit & vegetables� Beans� Beetroot� Brassicas: broccoli, cabbage and caulifl ower

� Carrots� Cucumber� Cut-and-come-again lettuce, and other lettuces

� Eggplant� English spinach� Herbs� Leek� Potatoes� Pumpkin� Radishes� Rhubarb� Silver beet� Spring onions� Strawberries� Sweet corn� Zucchini

Cool climates� Artichokes

Temperate climates� Artichokes� Capsicum� Chillies� Sweet potato� Tomatoes� Watermelons� Zucchini

Warm to tropical climates� Capsicum� Rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa)

� Sweet corn� Sweet potato� Tomatoes� Watermelons� Zucchini

Harvest now

Cool climates� Asparagus

Temperate climates� Asparagus� Beetroot� Brassicas: caulifl ower, cabbage, broccoli

� Broad beans� Lettuce� Peas

Tropical climates� Brassicas: cabbage, caulifl ower, broccoli

� Lettuce� Potatoes� Spinach Prune now

All climates� Fuchsias� Orchids, after fl owering� Roses, after fl owering

Temperate climates� Passionfruit

Pests & diseases

All climates� Be alert for snails, slugs and caterpillars: employ a variety of deterrents, including coffee grounds around plants, and beer traps, to allow them to die happy

� Combat aphids, scale, thrips and other sap-sucking insects; all exude a honeydew which further leads to unsightly black sooty mould

� Spray camellias against the invisible tea mites, which enjoy low humidity and cause a bronze sheen over these normally beautiful, deep-green leaves; use Yates Natrasoap, spraying under the leaves as well as over the bush

� Start monthly spray with Confi dor to protect azaleas against lace bug

� As soon as tomatoes planted, hang up cards of parasitic wasp to combat white fl y

� Hang fruit-fl y traps� Use ladybirds as natural predators against a range of sap-sucking insects, but be alert for the 26-28-spotted lady bird, which will eat crops

Cool climates� Spray fruit trees at bud-burst with a com mer-cial Bordeaux mixture, especially to combat pear and cherry slug, and fungal diseases such as peach leaf curl

Warm climates� Watch for hibiscus beetle; spray with Confi dor

� Commence spraying against bronze orange bug

MUP YEAR 1ST PAGES.indd 2-3MUP YEAR 1ST PAGES.indd 2-3 4/6/10 12:51:37 PM4/6/10 12:51:37 PM

September


6 SEASONS IN MY GARDEN 7

For many gardeners the fi rst weeks of September are the

most exciting in the calendar. In temperate climates spring

has arrived, and the scent of anticipation hangs in the air;

in frost-prone areas sheets of late-winter daffodils still cover

the ground with their golden glow.

Although the winter bulbs have been blooming for several

weeks now, this is the month when we celebrate daffodils,

surely the brightest sign that the warm weather is almost

here. There is nothing as delicious as those few mornings in

early spring when the warm, scented air confi rms that spring

is on the way. In my Sydney garden my collection of wisterias

has started to unfurl glorious long racemes. The later

blooming magnolias—M. ‘Elizabeth’ and liliifl ora ‘Nigra’—are

still performing, as are the dark-coloured hellebores beneath

them. The cymbidium orchids, which began to show off in July,

continue to fl ower and the coelogynes are dripping from the

Chinese elm in our front garden, and from the terracotta pots

that face east during much of the year. (I bring them inside

when blooming so that their exotic, gorgeous scent can fi ll

the house.) The native dendrobium orchids are also fl owering,

and many are scented.

There are still some chores to do in the garden if it is going

to really show off come spring: chief among these is lawn

renovation. There will soon be plenty more to do, however, and

so I am enjoying these fi rst blooms of the new season before

pests associated with our humid climate descend and before

the weeds waken.

September

� Start fortnightly rose spray of Eco-Rose

� Watch out for cabbage white butterfl ies

� Hang cards of parasitic wasps to combat white fl y in the vegie garden

� If I neglected to do it in August, hang up fruit fl y traps

� Plant the fi rst of the tomatoes including the early-fruiting Apollo

� Hill up soil around potatoes

� Fertilise dying winter bulbs to give them food for next year

� Start monthly feed of summer-fl owering plants, including hydrangea

� Pick daffodils to bring into the house

� Tidy fuchsias: give them a light prune

� Watch rhubarb and cut off any forming fl owers to encourage stems

� Ensure that garden is ready for the spring growth spurt; check it’s

well mulched

� Keep watering new seedlings as they emerge

� Test soil pH

� Renovate lawn

� Pull out pansies and replant pots with petunias

� Harvest last of snow peas and then dig into the soil entire plants

� Stake emerging lilies so they don’t collapse in later spring wild weather

� Start planting seedlings of lettuce, to ensure constant supply

� Order autumn-fl owering bulbs

� Start feeding fruit trees with fertiliser that includes potassium to aid

fl ower production and fruit set

Caption: Ut elit luptatum euismod wisi hendrerit velit ut suscipit.

To do this month


8 SEASONS IN MY GARDEN 9SEPTEMBER

Pests & diseases

Watch out for early-season pests and diseases this month; they will only increase

as the weather warms.

It’s time to hang up those cards of parasitic wasps (Encarsia formosa) that can be

purchased through Biological Services, a mail-order company in South Australia.

You order by the thousand, and the wasps arrive as eggs on small cardboard strips

that are hung amongst your vegetables, particularly among the tomatoes. After

they hatch the adult female wasp lays her eggs into the white fl y; the larvae then

parasitises the pest.

Use ladybirds as natural predators against sap-sucking insects to protect a range

of plants, including strawberries. There are more than 500 varieties of ladybird in

this country, and as early as 1888 we were exporting them to the United States to

help in pest prevention. Be alert, however, for the 26-28-spotted ladybird, which

will eat your crops, particularly damaging your potatoes.

Check for aphids on roses, citrus and murraya as well as on spring-fl owering

bulbs that are fi nishing and will be weaker and more susceptible to attack. Aphids

spread disease as well as excreting honeydew, which results in black sooty mould.

Spray with Confi dor or Natra soap, or combine Eco-Oil with Eco-Rose for your

roses. Or, aphids can be removed by hand. Biological controls, which can be

ordered online from several companies, include ladybirds and hoverfl ies.

In early summer the curl grub will lay its eggs in your lawn; if you see moths

rising from the lawn, perhaps as you mow, it is time to spray with Confi dor.

You will have been spraying regularly over winter in an effort to prevent an

infestation of bronze orange bug.

Lawn renovation

As the weather warms the lawn starts to stir—and so do lawn weeds like bindii,

which are easy to remove by hand at this early stage, however. My lawn is the

warm-weather buffalo (Stenotaphrum secundatum), a running perennial grass that

is a good choice for a coastal garden (see my book The Constant Gardener for a full

discussion of lawn species and varieties). Hard working and hard wearing, buffalo

will cope with some shade but by this time of the year is crying out for some

tender loving care. I pierce the lawn with a fork, taking care not to pierce the

plastic irrigation pipes that are just beneath the surface.

Alternatively, you can walk over the lawn with shoe spikes or, if you have a large

expanse to cover, hire an aerating machine from a large hardware store. Then

I replant any bare patches with some spare runners that have appeared in garden

beds: broadcast a slow-release, organic fertiliser onto a damp lawn, and water

in well.

If your lawn has become uneven you can apply a thin layer of topdressing soil, or

sand, in early spring when new growth starts, or in early summer. Ensure that the

surface is level and that the tips of the grass are visible.

When mowing ensure that you don’t cut the lawn too low, which will expose soil

and encourage weeds. But do mow before any weeds have had a chance to turn

to seed: you can then add lawn clippings to the garden as a mulch or, along with

some nitrogen, to the compost bin.

How to do...

Caption: Ut elit luptatum euismod wisi hendrerit velit ut suscipit consequat in molestie consequat. In duis ea, odio lorem, ex consequat facilisis aliquip tation odio in odio ullamcorper.



10 SEASONS IN MY GARDEN 11MONTH



a.b. d.

e.

f.

g.

h.

i.

Daffodils

The countryside, along with my neighbourhood, and my garden, is washed in gold

in early spring, and in two genera in particular: wattles and daffodils. The wattles

I have planted behind our house as nurse plants to protect the more precious

gordonias while they establish are blooming this month; I pick branches of the

wonderfully scented wattle blossom to mix with daffodils in bowls and vases. The

verges of nearby roads are lit with a variety of wattle and the selection of varieties

of daffodil that started to bloom in my garden in mid winter are still surprising

me with golden treats.

The bulb is surely among nature’s most impressive miracles: it is a perfect

package, consisting of a short stem that emerges from several fl eshy scales, or

leaves, that are wrapped around the fl ower bud, which is already formed. Surely

there is nothing more exciting than watching the fresh green tips emerge from a

hidden treasure buried in unforgiving winter soil: so much beauty erupts from so

inauspicious a source. And when the show is over they just fade away, presenting

no trouble until they gear up to perform the following year. Among my favourites

are tulips, lilies, amaryllis, hyacinths and daffodils, all true bulbs.

The easiest of the bulbs to grow—for me at least—are the daffodils (the large

genus narcissus), which originated in North Africa and Europe, and comprise a

range of species that will provide scent and colour for months, from mid winter to

late spring. Ascertaining when each variety blooms is a crucial consideration for

gardeners who don’t live in cold climates. In coastal Sydney, and further north,

success is assured with early-fl owering varieties; cooler parts of the city should

try the mid-fl owering varieties. The later-fl owering daffodils, particularly some of

the spectacular doubles, are susceptible to ‘blasting’, which results from warm

and dry conditions and causes the developing fl ower to die at the bud stage. These

late-fl owering varieties are for colder areas, where spring can arrive into October.

A range of varieties, bred from more than fi fty wild species, have been grouped

into twelve divisions by an international horticultural convention. During

September my garden is full of ‘King Alfred’, a trumpet daffodil contained in divi-

sion 1, along with the double-fl owered ‘White Lion’ and the gold and yellow

‘Pronto’; I covet the new ‘Jersey Roundabout’, which blooms in many layers of

white with highlights of butter. The large-cupped daffodils comprise division 2;

division 4 holds the double-fl owered varieties.

The miniature daffodils ‘Tete a Tete’ and the vampish ‘Jetfi re’, with her swept

back petals and orange cup, as well as ‘Titania’ and ‘Canalicultus’, both white

with a delicate yellow cup, do well in warm temperate climates. These belong

to division 6, established to house the progeny of Narcissus cyclamineus, the most

distinctive of all daffodils, native to Portugal but lost to cultivation for over

200 years. After it was rediscovered, it was used repeatedly in breeding. The

miniature ‘Titania’, white with a delicate yellow cup, is also early.

The multi-headed, or tazetta, daffodils are in division 8; ‘Silver Chimes’ is among

the best known; ‘Grand Soleil d’Or’, which blooms butter-yellow with an orange

cup in July, and the cream, very scented ‘Erlicheer’ are also perfect for the warmer

climates. I also grow the larger ‘Jackpot’, with its fl attish outer petals in cream

and its wide golden centre. The late-fl owering ‘Geranium’ is gorgeous, with a

large white bloom and tangerine centre, or corona, and ‘Winston Churchill’ is

very full and very fragrant.

Among the elegant white daffodils, ‘Bliss’ is an old-fashioned favourite, although

the early-fl owering ‘Fine Style’ is a pure white with a fl ared corona and scal-

loped petals. ‘Calgary’ and ‘Gay Song’ are glorious, white, late-fl owering doubles.

The highly scented, cluster-fl owered ‘Paper White’ (N. papyraceus), which grows

wild in the western Mediterranean, is among the fi rst to bloom in June. I also

grow another species native to the Mediterranean, the hoop petticoat (N. bulboc-

odium), which fl owers in bright yellow with an extended trumpet and almost

invisible petals.

Allow the foliage of any bulb to die right down after fl owering to build up food

for the following year’s display. Fertilise also with blood and bone to assist food

manufacture, again as new growth is emerging, and with a high-potash tomato

food just before fl owering.

Wattles

To many of us wattles (Acacia spp.) are synonymous with Australia—and, of

course, the golden wattle (A. pycnantha) is our national fl oral emblem. Their

bright yellow blossom, glowing each July and August, promises that winter is

nearly over, although for some the blossom heralds the beginning of the hay

fever season. Some 900 species of wattle occur naturally in Australia: they

bloom with yellow or cream, pollen-fi lled heads or spikes of fl uffy blossom that

attract abundant bees. Wattles are fast growing but short lived trees and shrubs

and are often used as ‘nurse plants’ to protect slower growing, and perhaps

more precious, trees. Take care when choosing wattles for your garden, though,

as many, even though they are Australian natives, naturalise so well they are

now regarded as weeds.

The Sydney golden wattle A. longifolia, occurs along the east coast of Australia

and grows to about 5 metres. It makes a good fi rst defence against salt winds

or an informal hedge in a coastal garden.

Among my favourites is the soft grey-green foliage of the white wattle (Acacia

linifolia), which is easy to use with a variety of exotic plants. Used toward the

boundary of the garden, it will draw the eye toward the distance, creating a

sense of space.

The blackwood (A. melanoxylon) loves the deep, rich basalt soils of the southern

highlands of New South Wales, where it blooms in spring with yellow fl uffy orbs.

Its wood is valued for cabinet making. The green wattle (A. decurrens), grows to

15 metres and has fi ne, feathery leaves; it enjoys a warm temperate climate and

deep, moist soils.

Perhaps the best-known species of wattle, the Cootamundra (A. baileyana)—

which now comes in a purple-leaved form, ‘Purpurea’—is on the ‘don’t plant’ list.


Caption: a. Lorem ipsum dolor; b. sit amet nemo sibi nascitur; c. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet nemo nascitur; d. Ipsum dolor sit amet nemo sibi. Lorem; e. ipsum dolor sit amet nemo; f. sibi nascitur. Lorem ipsum sit amet nemo sibi nascitur.

TS: PLEASE EDIT – THERE ARE NO PHOTOS OF ACACIA SO CAN WE EDIT THIS BACK?

SEPTEMBER



Wattles and daffodils, many from my garden, play a major part

in the colour theme for this fi rst month of spring: create small

posies of the one species, and then group several together in a

vase or a bowl for a powerful effect. As the weather warms, the

spring garden makes the perfect setting for simple brunches or

light luncheons. Here are two menus that can be prepared in

advance, making the entertaining easy.



Sunday brunch Spring luncheon

Fragrant rice:½ cup unsalted pistachios4 cups jasmine rice, soaked for 1 hour, then washed till water runs clear

chicken stockwaterchicken juices½ cup sultanaspinch saffron

Spread pistachios on a baking tray and toast in a 180˚C oven for 5 to 10 minutes until golden, watching carefully to ensure they don’t burn; alternatively, toast in a dry frying pan, stirring to ensure even browning. Place rice in rice cooker and add stock, water and some of the juices from the cooked chicken, ratio according to taste, to measure on cooker. Add sultanas and pistachios according to taste, then saffron.

Fragrant couscous:½ cup unsalted pistachios½ cup sultanas250 g couscous250 mL orange juice 1 lime, juiced (optional)1 onioncloves of garlic, to taste1 tablespoon olive oil150 mL chicken stockfew tablespoons mint, or coriander, chopped

Dry-roast pistachios, following the method given in the rice recipe above. Soak sultanas in fruit juices. Boil stock and then add couscous, allowing it to absorb the liquid; set aside for 30 minutes, then fl uff with a fork. Sauté onion and garlic in olive oil, then add spices. Stir into the couscous, add raisins and cover to keep warm. Before serving add pistachios, mint or coriander. Serve in a shallow dish with chicken on top, and additional fresh quartered limes or lemons. Serves 6.

Spring luncheonMiddle Eastern roast lemon and lime chicken

This dish is best made several hours in advance, or the day before, to allow fl avours to develop. Reheat gently to serve. (Make the rice or the couscous just before you are ready to serve).

Chicken:6 coriander seeds, crushed, or 2 tablespoons ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cardamom1 teaspoon ground star anise1 teaspoon allspice½ teaspoon ground nutmeg1 teaspoon medium or mild paprika1 large brown onion½ head organic garlic, crushed½ small fresh chilli (optional), chopped (remove seeds if you wish to reduce heat)

freshly ground salt and pepper1 tablespoon olive oil1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon sesame oil1 chicken supreme (breast with leg and skin attached) per person

2 small black limes[Holly: where do we buy black limes?]

1 cup preserved lemons (see recipe in June); use skin only, discard fl esh

Pre-heat oven to 180˚C. Fry all the spices in the butter and oils, add onions, garlic and chilli, and set aside to cool. Fry chicken pieces in the same pan for 5 minutes each side. In a baking dish, place chicken skin side up on limes and preserved lemons and paste onion and spice mix over the chicken skin. Leave, covered, for at least 1 hour. Cover baking dish with foil and roast for 1 hour. Remove foil from dish and turn oven to grill setting so that skin crisps. Serve with steamed pilau rice or fragrant couscous.

Potato hot cakes with crisped pancetta, goat cheese cream and quince marmalade

[Holly: Please supply recipe.]

Candied pumpkin (this can be made a few days in advance):

juice of 3 oranges½ cup honey (the hotel uses coffee-blossom honey)

1 cup waterzest of 1 orange1 cup pumpkin, cubed

Place liquids in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil, and stir to dissolve the honey. Add pumpkin and zest. Simmer very gently until pumpkin is cooked through and well glazed and the liquid is almost evaporated.

Pumpkin cream:1 cup pumpkin pureepinch grated nutmeg1 tablespoon honey1 cup plain yoghurt (I always use goat or sheep yoghurt)

Puree all ingredients in blender until smooth.

To serve, pile pancakes and top with

candied pumpkin and pumpkin-

yoghurt cream. Garnish with orange

zest, and, perhaps, a fi ne slice of fresh

orange.

Buckwheat & pumpkin pancakes, with candied pumpkin & orange zest

I fi rst tried these delicious pancakes at Paro’s lovely Uma Hotel, before I trekked to the famous Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Bhutan, an ancient, sacred place that clings to a cliff at almost 4000 metres above sea level. With their decadent candied pumpkin and pureed-pumpkin yoghurt, they are substantial enough to sustain you on the gruelling climb; the buckwheat ensures they are not too heavy, however. And they make a perfect dish for a Sunday brunch.

I have also used half pumpkin and

half sweet potato in this recipe with

great success.

Pancakes:1 cup buckwheat fl our 2 tablespoons brown sugar1½ teaspoons baking powder½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda1 teaspoon cinnamon½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmegpinch salt1¹/³ cup soy milk3 eggs¾ cup roast-pumpkin pureezest of 1 orange1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Mix fl our, sugar, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda, spices and salt. In another bowl mix the soy milk, eggs, vanilla and orange zest and blend well. Pour the wet ingredients slowly into the fl our mix and blend. Add the pumpkin puree and mix well. Leave to rest for an hour. Pour quan-tities (depending upon the size of pancake you desire) into heated pan. Cook until bubbles rise and break. Turn and cook for a few minutes.

Dried fruit salad

I love this delicious fruit salad: it combines a variety of dried fruits, including apricots, pears, pineapples and prunes. The fruits are plumped with up weak, cold tea, to which you add fragrant rosewater or a scented honey. It is delicious served warm, with thick yoghurt and muesli, for brunch, or as a rather rich dessert. It’s high in calories, which is a shame, as it is more-ish.

150 g dried apple200 g dried peach220 g dried pear375 g desert fi gs150 g pitted prunes170 g dried apricots4 cups weak tea, strained70 g honey (use a single blossom, such as apple)

2 tablespoons brandy (optional)2 tablespoons rosewater (optional)few leaves of lemon verbenafresh rose petals (optional; ensure they have not been sprayed)

In a glass bowl, layer the fruits and cover with the tea. If desired, add a little brandy, the honey and the rosewater. Leave, covered, in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours, and serve with yoghurt, or with whipped cream and toasted almonds. Serves six to eight.

SEPTEMBER



Triple-chocolate & almond brownies (gluten free)

Lime tart

Triple-chocolate & almond brownies (gluten free)

These triple-chocolate and almond brownies (which use white, milk and dark chocolate) are gluten free but not, of course, calorie free! I use this mix for a delicious (but very rich) base for slices, and also as a base for desserts. For an easy dinner-party pudding, simply cut rounds with a small glass or cookie cutter and sandwich together with vanilla ice cream, crème fraîche or whipped cream. Add fresh raspberries or strawberries. The cooked slice keeps well for up to a week, and also freezes well. To serve for afternoon tea, simply cut the brownies into bite-sized rounds.

200 g almond meal½ cup rice fl our1¾ cups caster sugar¹/³ cup cocoa300 g total of dark, milk and white chocolate, well chopped, or chocolate drops, proportions to taste

3 eggs, lightly beaten250 g butter, melted½ teaspoon vanilla extract

Pre-heat oven to 180˚C, and line a 24-cm by 35-cm baking tin. Mix almond meal and rice fl our with cocoa and sugar. Add chopped chocolate (or you can use chocolate drops). Combine eggs, butter and vanilla and fold into chocolate mixture.

Bake 40 minutes. (It will still be a little

soft to the touch but will fi rm as it

cools). Cut into rounds or small slices

when almost cool.

Filling:3 eggs, plus 1 egg yolk130 g caster sugar200 mL pouring cream180 mL freshly squeezed lime juice (3-4 limes)

zest all the limes

Place eggs, sugar and cream in food processor and blend. Add juice and zest and blend. Pour mixture into pastry shell while it is still warm. Reduce oven temperature to 160˚C and cook tart 20 to 30 minutes until fi lling is almost set. (Watch to ensure pastry does not burn.) Cool tart in tin; serve with clotted cream or ice cream.

Lime tart

This is my daughter Olivia’s recipe and is delicious using any citrus in season.

Pastry (pâte brisée):2 cups plain fl our½ cup icing sugarpinch salt250 g chilled, unsalted butter, cubed4 tablespoons iced water1 egg white (retain the yolk to use in the fi lling; see below)

Line and fl our 23-centimetre loose-bottomed fl an tin. Place fl our, icing sugar and salt in food processor and pulse to blend. Add butter and pulse to breadcrumb consistency. Add water and pulse to mix to wet sand consistency.

Tip onto clean, fl oured surface

(mixture will look crumbly and will

not hold together in a ball at this

stage). Gently bring mix together with

your hands to dough consistency. Roll

out, using a little extra fl our. Gently

ease pastry into tin, including up the

sides, being careful not to stretch. Trim

off excess. (You will have pastry left

over for small tarts, or to freeze.)

Refrigerate 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 180˚C. Bake blind

(cover pastry with baking paper, and

weigh this down with dried beans,

rice or pastry weights) for 20 minutes.

Remove paper and weights, brush

with beaten egg white, and cook for a

further 20 minutes. During this second

cooking time, prepare fi lling.

SEPTEMBER



Spring bulbs

The garden is awash with spring bulbs. What joy they provide—and with such

little effort! A little forethought in high summer, when the bulb catalogues fall

through your letterbox, prompt planting, and a little bulb food results in a parade

of scent and colour throughout spring. In my Sydney garden freesias, triteleia,

grape hyacinths, hyacinths and the common bluebell are the most successful,

along with the early-fl owering daffodils. I leave them undisturbed for years;

they prefer not to be watered in summer, when they are dormant.

In a small garden mass plantings—in generous drifts, or in clumps—remain the

most pleasing. Or, plant in pots, in multiple layers, for an exciting show of scented

fl amboyance; bring the pots inside when they are at their best. Then, after the

fl owers are fi nished, return the pots to the outdoors, feed, and store them out

of sight.

Kaffi r Lily

Do you need a tough ground cover that will thrive in a south-facing, shaded and

dry position? The Kaffi r lily (Clivia spp.) will be happy to oblige, particularly if you

garden in a frost-free climate. Clivia are also happy under awnings or on veran-

dahs; they hate having wet feet. Just apply a handful of fertiliser once or twice a

year. There are four species in the genus; they all produce strappy green leaves

from short rhizomes with thick, fl eshy roots.

I have a small collection of clivia, including the coveted cream to yellow variety,

which does particularly well in large pots outside a bank of windows. After fl ow-

ering is fi nished, attractive bunches of yellow seed heads develop to extend the

season of interest. The undemanding orange-fl owering clivia is a saviour in the

most diffi cult area of my garden, under a large tree that robs the ground of

nutrients and moisture.

The genus was named for Lady Clive, the Duchess of Northumberland, who fi rst

fl owered Clivia nobilis in her greenhouse in the United Kingdom.

If you have a large garden you might set

aside some room for a meadow. Instead of

persevering with expensive packets of seed

which will struggle when faced with our

climate and rampant grasses, you can

employ bulbs to create an economical and

easy-care ‘wildfl ower meadow’. Plant

tall-growing bulbs towards the middle of

your planned meadow; low-growing bulbs

go on the perimeters and along the edges

of your mown paths. Particularly useful in

such a situation are bluebells. While some

gardeners reject them as weeds, I love

them as they fl ower till the end of

November, and then multiply generously.

Once the foliage has died down, cut, with

the mower blades as high as possible, once

a month; stop mowing around Easter,

when the new shoots will start to emerge.


The grape hyacinth is an easy and

generous addition to the late winter and

early spring border, and looks wonderful

massing out toward the front of a border.

Native to Mediterranean regions and

western Asia, the brilliant blue of Muscari

armeniacum looks gorgeous picked and

placed in a shallow bowl with sprigs of the

scented pink-and-raspberry fl owers of

Daphne odora.

The common bluebell is a favourite as it

seems to grow anywhere. The Spanish

bluebell (Hyacinthoides hispanica) grows

easily, and multiplies generously, in most

climates in Australia, fl owering in scented

blue to lilac spikes. H. non-scripta is the

English bluebell.

Flowering now

SEPTEMBER



Orchids

There is hardly a month when a species of orchid is not fl owering in my garden.

This enormous and diverse plant group of some 900 genera and more than 30,000

species must be the most generous of all plants. Orchids are easy to grow; just

give them a couple of hours of morning sun each day, weekly watering with excel-

lent drainage, and a little fertiliser when you remember! If you enjoy orchids as

indoor plants, after fl owering place the pots outside, under a deciduous tree,

rather than in direct sun. To prevent fungal infection, keep water off the leaves.

For greatest success you might observe, perhaps, where your favourite orchid

occurs naturally. As well as being native to Australia and Papua New Guinea,

orchids are found on all continents except Antarctica.

My favourite orchid is probably the coelogene genus (pronounced see-lodg-i-nee).

It’s hard to believe that any plant as beautiful as the coelogyne could be so easy to

grow. You might assume these gorgeous orchids, which bloom in scented cascades

through winter and spring, would be drama queens, but they demand nothing

more than a few hours of morning sun and an easterly position in the garden.

Bring them inside when fl owering, where their fragrance will fi ll your house.

While coelogynes love the cooler weather, they also thrive in my humid Sydney

garden; I just ensure they have excellent air circulation. Because of their

cascading habit many species look fabulous in hanging baskets, in the forks of

trees, or perched on stands. They form pseudobulbs which are linked by rhizomes;

the leaves emerge from the top of each pseudobulb. I have greatest success with

C. cristata, which produces gorgeous arching branches of highly scented, delicate,

milk-white fl owers with yellow and gold throats in late winter. I also grow C. fl ac-

cida, which erupts in spring with long cascades of slightly smaller but equally

fragrant blooms. Perhaps my very favourite is C. mooreana, a rare, cool-growing

species from Vietnam. It is easy to grow and yet it produces large, glistening white

fl owers on upright to arching stems in late spring.

The genus coelogyne, among some 900 orchid genera distributed throughout the

world, was named in 1821 by the illustrious Dr John Lindley (1799–1865), who was,

at various times, assistant to Sir Joseph Banks, Director of Kew Gardens, Professor

of Botany at the University of London, author of Ladies’ Botany, and organiser of

Britain’s fi rst fl ower show in 1830.

A genus of around 200 species, coelogynes are native to Nepal, India, China,

Malaysia, the Philippines, Indonesia, Papua New Guinea and the Pacifi c islands.

While there are more than fi fty species available in Australia, none are indigenous

to this country, and only a handful are commonly grown.

Dendrobiums are among the 190-odd genera of orchids which are native to

Australia. Like most orchids their main requirements are sunshine, particularly

in the morning, and excellent drainage. Some are deciduous and need a good

soaking to burst into fl ower, but most enjoy a drought, thriving, pot bound, on

almost no water, a situation that replicates their natural habitat of cracks in

rocks and pockets in trees. And this is how I grow them in my garden.

My favourite in this genus, the glorious king orchid, or rock lily (Dendrobium

speciosum), native to New South Wales, fl owers in late winter and spring with

cascades of cream and yellow scented fl owers. I have it in a large black plastic pot

(which it loves) hidden amongst foliage in a northeasterly spot. In my front garden

the easy-care D. curvicaule, also often called the king orchid, blooms in cascading,

scented, cream to yellow trusses in frost-free climates. These look wonderful

planted in rock crevices with a moss or orchid compost base, or bound into the

fork of a tree. Also carefree is the more discreet Dendrobium kingianum var. album,

which, each spring, sends up an arching mass of scented, delicate white bells.

(Turn to November for a discussion on dividing and repotting orchids.)

Hybrid orchidsHybrid orchids, whether man-made or

naturally occurring, do not attract the

single quotes usually employed in

botanical Latin. For instance, the glorious

hybrid between the two coelogyne species,

cristata and fl accida, is always written as

Coelogyne Unchained Melody.

Dendrobiums are among the 190-odd genera

of orchids which are native to Australia.

Like most orchids their main requirements

are sunshine, particularly in the morning,

and excellent drainage. Some are decid-

uous and need a good soaking to burst into

fl ower, but most enjoy a drought, thriving,

pot bound, on almost no water, a situation

that replicates their natural habitat of

cracks in rocks and pockets in trees. And

this is how I grow them in my garden.

My favourite in this genus, the glorious

king orchid, or rock lily (Dendrobium

speciosum), native to New South Wales,

fl owers in late winter and spring with

cascades of cream and yellow scented

fl owers. I have it in a large black plastic pot

(which it loves) hidden amongst foliage in a

northeasterly spot. In my front garden the

easy-care D. curvicaule, also often called the

king orchid, blooms in cascading, scented,

cream to yellow trusses in frost-free

climates. These look wonderful planted

in rock crev ices with a moss or orchid

compost base, or bound into the fork of

a tree. Also carefree is the more discreet

Dendrobium kingianum var. album, which,

each spring, sends up an arch ing mass of

scented, delicate white bells. (Turn to

November for a discussion on dividing and

repotting orchids.)

Hybrid orchids, whether man-made or naturally occurring, do not attract the single quotes usually employed in botanical Latin. For instance, the glorious hybrid between the two coelogyne species, cristata and fl accida, is always written as Coelogyne Unchained Melody.




The edible garden

Spring brings great excitement in my garden, not least because I’m looking

forward to all those summer vegetables—surely there can be no taste better than

that of a just-picked, vine-ripened tomato! In September, however, the ruby and

rainbow chard continues to thrive: I keep picking leaves to toss into the salad,

along with the leaves of my beetroot. The ‘Flaming Parrot’ tulips that I have

planted throughout my several vegie gardens and in the terracotta pots of leaf

vegetables have added a certain pizzazz to the early-season edible garden.

The caulifl owers that I planted in autumn have now formed tiny heads; I’ll

harvest them while they are still small for a salad. I am on the lookout, however,

for cabbage white butterfl ies, which are about now, and will lay eggs on the bras-

sicas; hundreds of tiny caterpillars will hatch to devour the precious produce.

Spray weekly with a biological, safe spray like Dipel or Success or erect a frame

over the vegie garden and cover the entire show with a fi ne net.

This is the month I plant spinach and silver beet. Although they are not related,

they are both easy to grow, delicious braised and served with butter and ground

pepper, and, torn, make a great addition to salads. Plant seedlings in enriched soil,

in drills[Holly: Could you briefl y explain what drills are? Particular sorts of rows?].

Mulch well, protect from pests, and feed and water regularly to ensure a quick-

growing and tender crop.

Strawberries

It’s hard to believe that rich, sweet, red strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa or

Fragaria × vesca) are so easy to grow. And they are good for you, being high in

vitamin C and folic acid and in demand for their antioxidant properties. I like to

cultivate them in terracotta pots or wooden troughs; you can even grow them well

in heavy plastic bags. Courtyard owners can allow them to drip over the edges of

planter boxes, and you might construct these at waist height for ease of mainte-

nance. From the huge Rosaceae family, which also contains many fruit trees,

along with roses, strawberries are well worth growing, as the fruit you purchase

in the shop might have been subjected to a chemical assault.

Plant virus-free plants, from late winter to spring, in a sunny spot in rich soil on

the acid side of the pH scale; water well and apply a liquid fertiliser each fort-

night. As with all vegies and fruit, a good-quality soil or potting mix with a good

dose of organic fertiliser that is not high in nitrogen, and even, regular watering

will reap the greatest rewards. Remove any runners as they will reduce fruit

production.

Strawberries, which grow to about 30 centimetres in height and spread about the

same, usually bear fruit four to six weeks after planting, from late spring, though

summer and into autumn. Traditionally, straw is arranged over the soil to prevent

the fruit from being damaged; you can also use dark plastic, which will suppress

weeds and keep the soil warm.

Strawberries demand full sun in their preferred cool climates, but I grow ‘Torrey’,

a variety more suited to the warm temperate Sydney climate, in a spot which

receives about fi ve hours of sun daily. ‘Temptation’ is also good for pots as it

produces no runners and fruits over a long period. I also grow ‘Nellie Kelley

Sweetie’, which fruits later, after Christmas. You will need to protect from birds,

too, who fi nd the fruit just as delicious as we do.

Crop rotationIf you are following the rules of good

gardening you’ll practice some form of

crop rotation. This involves moving each

group of edible plants each season, locating

them in a different garden bed, so that any

soil-borne diseases—such as nematodes—

that may be unique to one group won’t

multiply to become a problem.

Put simply, this means that the legumes—

beans and peas—which require a good

dose of fertiliser and organic matter, and

which I’ll call group one, are followed by

group two, the brassicas (broccoli, cauli-

fl ower, kale, cabbage, turnip and swede),

which then don’t need any additional

feeding. (Also plant peppers and tomatoes,

along with companionable basil, with your

legumes.) The brassicas are followed by

group three, the root vegetables: beetroot,

onion, leek, garlic, spinach, carrot, chard

and potato. But if all that sounds too

complicated, disaster will not descend.

And you can plant fast-growing leaf

vegetables such as lettuce in any of the

sections. Gardeners with plenty of space

will have a fourth bed, which will be left

fallow one year in four to grow a nitrogen-

fi xing legume crop.

SEPTEMBER



mup year 1st pages - booktopiastatic.booktopia.com.au/pdf/9780522857825-1.pdfmup year 1st pages.indd...

Documents