my japan impressions

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    My Japan Impressions _ July 2009

    Train Travel in Japan

    Train transportation in Japan is like in any other western country: dependable. Unlike

    in India the system is well maintained, the stations clean and the trains run on time say, as it is in any developed and advanced country.

    A typical station in the suburban section of Japan, near

    Osaka is shown on the left. One station is like any other

    one, say as in any city of Europe or UK. You will notice

    that the stations are

    well lit and the

    displays helpful to

    commuters. In many

    places even thoughJapanese language signs dominate, English is now

    seen quite prominently and hence a foreigner need

    not feel lost. But asking for help for directions, may

    not solicit much response as there are very few

    English speaking natives.

    Blind persons can use the stations with no

    difficulty. As you would have noticed there

    are paths with special tile markings. The

    horizontal etched marking lines show the

    straight path. Whenever there is a change

    of direction or height is encountered the

    engraving changes to bubble (round)

    impressions to help the visually impaired

    climb stairs, or turn around.

    Japan has a very wide and complicated

    network of trains: The Shinkansen (the bullet train) connecting main Cities, over

    ground trains between stations and also the Subway trains (tubes) within the city.

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    It is a pleasure and convenient to travel in Shinkansen they run at over 250-300

    kms per hour and we could cover the

    distance of 400Kms from Osaka to Tokyo in

    three hours. A little faster than a present

    day European train running between sayMilan (Italy) and Frankfurt (Germany). But

    the Japanese had a significant head-start to

    the race of train speed. The Shinkansen

    started in 1964! TGV the fastest European

    train (French), comparable to Shinkansen

    started at least twenty years later.

    Indians (like other foreigners) will benefit by carrying the JR (Japan Rail) passes

    which are easily available with many Travel Agents in India. These are economical

    and easy for travel within Japan. Otherwise the tickets can be expensive. A oneweek JR pass cost me Rs 15K. The amount of travel I did in one week travelling the

    country south of Tokyo - around 200Kms/day, would have cost me no less than Rs

    50K (JPY 100K), had I bought the ticket from the counter every time. The JR pass

    will save packing and unpacking in various hotels and laundry costs.

    Stations are easily recognisable by the JR sign board as in Europe and elsewhere.

    One has to travel by JR to know the

    comfort levels. Even the window has an

    arm rest! The stations are very clean. Andthe seats are comfortable. The passengers

    even queue up at the entrance for

    boarding. This is unusual in any suburban

    situation. They go to unusual lengths to be

    courteous to each other. Even in Europe,

    there is a mad scramble for entry into the

    carriage.

    As in case of many European countriescycling is popular because of the

    community awareness of need for eco-

    friendliness. And JR helps people to be

    eco-friendly. The stations are so well

    connected that most homes are never

    more than 2-3kms from a nearest

    station. This encourages people to park

    their bicycles near the station and travel

    to work or shop.

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    Japanese pride on their punctuality and

    schedules. In the unforeseen

    circumstance of any train delay it is

    announced in advance and the reason forthe delay is also displayed prominently!

    However such instances are rare.

    Londoners would find it useful to know that all

    sub way trains in Japan have hat racks, where as

    in London only the main line trains have. LondonTube is especially guilty of this slip-up. It is so

    common in Mumbai and elsewhere that people in

    a hurry tend to forget things on the rack. But on

    JR you can safely forget your cash box and

    retrieve later!

    No impressive Architectural buildings

    The country is bereft of any architecture of significance (heritage buildings!) at

    least to the extent I have seen while travelling across five cities Osaka, Tokyo,Nagoya, Hiroshima and Himeji. In small towns like Miyoshi one does come across a

    house or a mansion made in the medieval Japanese style. Thats about it. Even our

    Banjara Hills in Hyderabad have some excellent houses. Towns like Vadodra and

    Ahmedabad in India boast some extremely imposing architectural abodes. Japanese

    will probably give an excuse on the vulnerability of their houses to frequent earth

    quakes for such an aberration. But the last earth quake was in 1975!

    Thus any significant architectural symbol is

    conspicuous by its absence. All stations look

    alike, as rectangular steel and concrete

    structures. Compared to this even our Nampally

    station (Hyderabad) looks majestic. However

    some corrections are being made, as the

    adjoining photograph of Tokyo station under

    renovation shows. They say it will be ready by

    2010.

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    Hiroshima

    Because of busy business schedule I was

    unable to indulge in any sight-seeing in

    Japan. But when I went to Hiroshima I

    had some time between appointmentsand so I had the privilege of seeing the A-

    bomb site. It has an impressive a Peace

    Memorial and an exhibition with graphic

    details of events that led to the A-bomb

    and its after affects.

    On 6th August 1945, America bombed

    Hiroshima and Nagasaki as we all know. The adjoining photo is a symbol of the

    devastation caused by the bomb.

    The interesting information I had gathered during the exhibition tour of the Peace

    memorial is revealing at least to me. I somehow missed this important piece of

    information from my study of WWII.

    Just after the surrender of Germany in

    June 1945, there were negotiations

    between Russia and Japan for a similar

    surrender and peace treaty. The talks

    about to be closed and a treaty signed. But

    the Allied Forces, sensing that this could

    lead Japan into a communistic regime

    wanted to prevent the surrender of Japan

    to Russia. And that is how this decision of

    A-bombing of Japan has been taken by Ike,

    Montgomery and Churchill. Though War was over in June itself, the A-bomb was

    dropped in August!

    This forced Japan to surrender to the Allied Forces, probably with an assurance of

    freedom on how they run their country ensuring the independence of their traditionalinstitutions and emperors authority unaffected. This was quite contrary to the draft

    agreement between Russia and Japan then under discussions, which would have

    made Japan subservient to Communistic governance. Thus the Japanese should be

    thankful for the bombing otherwise they could have been like some underdeveloped

    CIS country, which are till recently under Communistic influence thus severely

    stunting their growth and development.

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    The well documented information in the

    Peace memorial gives a vivid account of the

    devastation and loss of lives (100,000) in

    Hiroshima. It was told then that the after

    affects of the Bomb would be such that novegetation can grow in the vicinity for at least

    100yrs or so. But nature is stronger, as you

    would see from the adjoining photo. There is

    vegetation all around and the city is

    crammed. It is suggested that immediately

    after the A-bomb there was heavy rain both in Nagasaki and Hiroshima which

    washed away the remnants of the radio-active particles. This might have made the

    soil recover its fertility. Man proposes GOD disposes! can best describe this

    phenomenon.

    The YEN

    All promotional literature on

    Japan debunks the theory that

    Japan is costly just to lull you

    into going there. But dont

    believe. At least for an Indian,

    Japan is frightfully expensive. A

    meal (thali) in an Indian

    Restaurant will cost you Rs600/- (two yen = one Rs). Even

    by standard of USD it must be

    costly as this converts to $12/-

    A meal for four persons cost us JPY 13K, without alcohol. That is a neat 1600/ head!

    A four station twenty minute train travel will cost JPY 200 ie Rs 100/-. In India

    for that amount you can have a monthly pass! I did not have the privilege of

    comparing the costs in Dept stores but one can project by conjecture. But, I did

    find that a mineral water bottle of 100ml cost me 120 i.e Rs 60/!!!

    Interestingly local salaries do take care of this cost for instance, the salary of a part

    time school teacher is JPY 200K per month. That is something!

    But as a tourist it is difficult to survive even for a week. May be one should combine

    pleasure with business travel so that your company takes of your portion ($ 240/per

    day, as in case of Reliance) and you take care of your family. Otherwise dont

    attempt to go to Japan as a holiday destination as you would to other countries in SE

    Asia.

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    The Food.

    Dont look for vegetarian food in Japan.

    But if you can live by salads, rice and

    potato fry (pommes frites) then may be u

    can manage for one or two days. So betteryou find some friend or relative to put you

    up - so that you can cook at home.

    Interestingly as Japan has friendly

    transportation system, one can cover the

    entire sightseeing parts by staying at one

    place as you can go in the morning and

    come back for the night home cooked

    meal!

    But going to a Japanese restaurant is an

    experience. The restaurants are very

    consumer friendly. You can literally order

    your recipe. Here in the photo you can

    see how the table top is having a grill

    fixed, so that you can mix and match your

    ingredients as per your own recipe. It is

    really fun. Imagine you can make your

    own tawa dosa as per your need crispy

    for my wife and soft for me!

    Other Musings:

    1. It is difficult to find (almost impossible) a Japanese male with a paunch!

    2. Japanese men are workaholic is well known. But this made the Japanese

    woman independent in handling day to day routine. So the Japanese husband

    depends on his wife for advice on mundane matters, say where to send their

    children to school, which house to buy, the going price and the like.

    3. Lipstick is not common amongst Japanese women.

    4. Even if the Japanese woman

    has a watch on her right wrist,

    the lucky charm, if any is worn

    on the same wrist.

    5. Japanese children are well

    behaved they dont litter or

    spoil the public property as the

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    Americans. No chocolate dripping fingers that ruin public property.

    6. English is not common though some of them are trying to learn. So the

    Japanese integration into IT is not fully self reliant. A lot of it outsourced,

    mainly from China and Taiwan. If Indian software engineers/technicians learn

    Japanese, there could be a big opportunity. Though some Japanese knowEnglish they prefer conversing in Japanese only and thus feel comfortable

    with Chinese because of commonality of traditions and script. Though they

    fought a lot of wars against each other!

    7. Indian men may not like Japanese woman as they have small breasts.

    8. 80% of the blue collared Men folk wear blackshoes to office few with laces

    and mostly as slip-on. Suede and Brown shoes are rare. Other men may wear

    sports shoes.

    9. Designation does not give any notion of the authority and responsibility of a

    person in an office situation.

    10. Number of Japanese made International Brands (Sony, Toyota, Mitsubishi,

    Fuji etc..) per capita (pop: 120 mil) gives an impression of their quality and

    delivery rather than marketing strengths.

    Some Photo Ops:

    As you would notice the display of train

    arrival and departure is in Japanese. But

    dont panic. Wait for some time, English

    will appear on the same display board.

    What is interesting however is that there is

    never any ambiguity in the information.

    Also if you wait long enough observing the

    display, some Japanese g man will

    always volunteer to help you need not

    even ask.

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    From these photographs, one feels that these stationsare abandoned. Not a soul! And yet it is the peak

    hour. No train is expected on these platforms for the

    next hold your breath, ten minutes! That is the faith

    the commuters have on their train service that they

    enter the platform in droves just few minutes before

    the train is scheduled.

    My Escorts in Hiroshima

    A Station Entrance a drab structure

    A series of lockers in a station but is

    nothing unusual. Most stations do have

    them. In India they are manned that isthe difference. But the interesting thing is

    we had kept our luggage in one locker

    and locked the next one! Luckily we did

    not lose anything, though it did give us a

    scare as when opened the locker we

    found the same empty.

    Fortunately we opened the immediate

    next one and found our stuff.

    But this is a design fault. The number of

    the locker should have also been

    prominently displayed on the lid of the

    locker.

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    The author at the Hiroshima

    Bombing Site