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Local industrialist Stephen Seneca, who made a fortune canningChesapeake Bay fish and fowl, funded the 1901 construction ofHavre de Grace United Methodist Church.

Concord Point Lighthouse once

illuminated the Susquehanna Flats

with nine lamps that burned whale

blubber. Today, it uses an electric

Fresnel lens.

Christmas Magic is always in

season, thanks to its ornaments

and festive gewgaws for holidays

throughout the year.

Redcoats ransacked St. John’sEpiscopal Church in the War of 1812,but the battle scars have faded behindred brick walls and a white steeple.

The town’s largest congregation

meets beneath the stately steeple

of St. Patrick’s Catholic Church,

erected in 1907.

Start here

Driver’sroute

First Baptist Church, completed in 1913, is built of gray speckledgranite mined just up the Susquehanna River in nearby Port Deposit, Md.

The Chesapeake Wooden Boat BuilderSchool draws boatwrights-in-training tothe Havre de Grace Maritime Museum,while landlubbers come to see the skiffs.

Duck into the Havre de Grace Decoy Museum,which displays a collection of 1,200 carvedwaterfowl and a wooden Christmas tree decoratedwith bird ornaments.

Grace Reformed Episcopal Church,constructed out of red bricks in 1910,features an arched wood roof evocativeof Noah’s Ark.

Bellow out your best “arrr!”during a reenactment of apirate attack at theSusquehanna Museumof Havre de Grace.

Don’t get devouredby the Chesapeakepool sharks at theBilliard ClubSports Bar & Grillin historic Roger’sHouse, a tavernsince 1788.

Gourmands flockto Laurrapin Grillefor the Duck TwoWays, a favoritedish, and suchapres-dinnerentertainment asBaltimore bandGypsy Dawg.

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RoadTrip The Sacred Sights of Havre de Grace

WHERE: Havre de Grace, Md.

WHY: Open houses of the holy, waterfowl play and bay sharks.

HOW FAR: Two miles from start to finish.

W ith only nine days until Christmas, most folks are cramming into temples of commerce and amassing inmalls. But this season, experience the true holiday spirit in Havre de Grace’s historic churches.

Despite its small size, the Maryland town boasts 30 places of worship clustered on a bucolic grid bythe Chesapeake Bay. For churchgoers, it makes for a pleasant walking tour any time of the year, but espe-

cially so Dec. 30, when the Susquehanna Ministerium will host the ninth annual Christmas Open House of Historic19th and 20th Century Churches. During the five-church hop, clergy and volunteers will relate the history of the state-ly structures, followed by refreshments and music.

Havre de Grace grew up along the Susquehanna Flats, a meeting point of the Susquehanna River and the bay. Thefertile area attracted countless fish, fowl and, during the Revolutionary War, Frenchmen. Around 1780, a soldier fromthe Marquis de Lafayette’s entourage remarked that the region looked a bit like Le Havre de Grace, a seaport in north-west France. The French phrase for “harbor of grace” stuck, even after the town was incorporated in 1785.

When the British invaded during the War of 1812, the redcoats razed the town but spared its church, St. John’sEpiscopal, which still stands today. The wildlife also survived, and Havre de Grace made a fortune off its smoked andcanned exports, which were shipped inland via the Susquehanna’s burgeoning lock and canal system.

By the second half of the 1800s, more local congregations had formed. Around the turn of the century, four church-es were built in the town center. Three of the new structures were constructed of Port Deposit granite, a hand-hewngray stone flecked with brown and black and striped with white quartz. Other churches were made of more commonred brick, with heavy stained-glass windows depicting scenes from the Bible.

Despite the large concentration of churches in central Havre de Grace, the community is not particularly religious,according to Ed Heydt, pastor of Havre de Grace United Methodist Church. “It’s not a churchgoing town,” he says.But that just means more pew space for visitors coming to gawk at these heavenly places.

— Ben ChapmanHavre de Grace church open house: Dec. 30, 2-4 p.m. Free. Obtain brochures from Havre de Grace Methodist Church (101 S.Union Ave., 410-939-2464) or the Havre de Grace Tourism and Visitor Center (450 Pennington Ave., 800-851-7756).

Road Trip maps, addresses and hours of operation are at www.washingtonpost.com/roadtrip.

SOURCE 12-16-07 DC EE N8 CMYK

N8CMYK

N8CMYK

N8 Sunday, December 16, 2007 The Washington Postx

WEDNESDAY IN STYLE Escapes takes a break from Christmas carols in Aberdeen, Md.

MAP BY JEROME COOKSON FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; PHOTOS BY BEN CHAPMAN FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Buzz Worthy

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