national costumes

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National costumes National costumes (Russia, Austria, (Russia, Austria, Finland) Finland)

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Page 1: National costumes

National costumesNational costumes

(Russia, Austria, Finland)(Russia, Austria, Finland)

Page 2: National costumes

Russian costumeRussian costume(VI-XVII centuries)(VI-XVII centuries)

A long shirt was the main article of A long shirt was the main article of national costume for men and national costume for men and women. It was made of white women. It was made of white homespun fabric and expensive homespun fabric and expensive colorful one with ornaments for rich colorful one with ornaments for rich people.people.

A shirt was belt by a cord or leather A shirt was belt by a cord or leather belt with different brushes at the belt with different brushes at the ends.ends. There were not any pockets, so There were not any pockets, so people suspended different things people suspended different things like knives, purses and combs on like knives, purses and combs on these belts. Sleeves, collars and these belts. Sleeves, collars and hems were embroidered by the hems were embroidered by the beautiful ornaments.beautiful ornaments.

Later women began to wear sarafans Later women began to wear sarafans (sundress) with aprons and wreathes.(sundress) with aprons and wreathes.

Page 3: National costumes

Russian costumeRussian costume

The red colour was the The red colour was the most festive. The most festive. The women’s sarafans women’s sarafans (sundresses) were (sundresses) were decorated with gold decorated with gold and silver threads and and silver threads and ornaments. ornaments. Also Also national clothes were national clothes were functionally different: functionally different: festal, everyday, festal, everyday, wedding, funereal, wedding, funereal, age, family status. age, family status.

Page 4: National costumes

Russian costumeRussian costume KokoshnikKokoshnik is is

traditional Russian traditional Russian women and girls women and girls headdressheaddress. . It is It is patterned to match patterned to match the style of sarafanthe style of sarafan.. The forehead is The forehead is sometimes sometimes decorated with decorated with pearls. The woman pearls. The woman or the girl usually or the girl usually wears her hair in a wears her hair in a plait. plait.

Page 5: National costumes

National Russian shoesNational Russian shoes

LaptiLapti— — is national Russian is national Russian footwear. They were made of bast footwear. They were made of bast (a kind of a tree). Lapti were tied (a kind of a tree). Lapti were tied round the feet with bast laces.round the feet with bast laces.

Page 6: National costumes

Russian Peasant Russian Peasant CostumeCostume

--kosovorotkakosovorotka (a (a blouse with side blouse with side collar fastening)collar fastening)

--porti porti (trousers)(trousers)

--lapti lapti (shoes made(shoes made of bast)of bast)

--zipun zipun (smooth (smooth woolen street woolen street clothesclothes))

Page 7: National costumes

Russian costumeRussian costume(XVII-XVIII centuries)(XVII-XVIII centuries)

After the reforms of Peter I all the nobles After the reforms of Peter I all the nobles had to wear European dress. The men had to wear European dress. The men wore European shirts, wigs, silk wore European shirts, wigs, silk stockings and shoes on the heels. stockings and shoes on the heels. Women wore stylish french puffed Women wore stylish french puffed dresses with corsets and curled hair. dresses with corsets and curled hair.

Page 8: National costumes

Russian costumeRussian costume(XIX century)(XIX century)

In the XIX century In the XIX century “classical” women “classical” women costume took the place. costume took the place. Short light-colored Short light-colored dresses with puffed dresses with puffed sleeves, shoes on the sleeves, shoes on the heels and a little hat heels and a little hat with ribbons were in with ribbons were in fashion.fashion. The men wore The men wore black whiskers and black whiskers and moustache, english top moustache, english top hat, tail-coat and frock-hat, tail-coat and frock-coat.coat.

Page 9: National costumes

Merchant and his wifeMerchant and his wife

Page 10: National costumes

Austrian costumeAustrian costume In Austria people still In Austria people still

wear their national wear their national costume called costume called Tracht (or Trachten). Tracht (or Trachten). It was made of It was made of leather or loden leather or loden (special waterproof (special waterproof fabric on wool), flax fabric on wool), flax and cotton. National and cotton. National costumes were blue, costumes were blue, green and red.green and red.

Page 11: National costumes

Austrian costumeAustrian costume National costumeNational costume was decorated with was decorated with

embroideryembroidery and ivory buttons. and ivory buttons. Also national Also national clothes varied according to occasion and clothes varied according to occasion and region, identifying a persons belonging to a region, identifying a persons belonging to a particular social group and legal status particular social group and legal status (married, single), origin or trade.(married, single), origin or trade.

Page 12: National costumes

Austrian costumeAustrian costume GoldhaubeGoldhaube is a g is a golden olden

HeaddressHeaddress,, beautifully beautifully decorateddecorated,, ddeveloped out eveloped out of women´s linen bonnetsof women´s linen bonnets. . These hThese headdresses eaddresses were were worn by the wives of worn by the wives of burghers. They were burghers. They were decorated with black lace, decorated with black lace, black costume beads, tulle black costume beads, tulle and gauze, and in and gauze, and in particular silken and particular silken and golden threads and golden threads and sequins. As a symbol of the sequins. As a symbol of the well-to-do bourgeoisie, it is well-to-do bourgeoisie, it is still worn in Upper (and still worn in Upper (and parts of Lower) Austria on parts of Lower) Austria on festive occasionsfestive occasions..

Page 13: National costumes

In Austria people still In Austria people still enjoy wearing 'tracht' enjoy wearing 'tracht' on official occasions on official occasions like weddings, festivals, like weddings, festivals, etc. Contemporary etc. Contemporary fashion adapts fashion adapts traditional elements. traditional elements. The production of The production of dirndl and lederhosen dirndl and lederhosen is a thriving economical is a thriving economical branch with Sportalm, branch with Sportalm, Geiger or Tostmann Geiger or Tostmann being favorite brands. being favorite brands.

Austrian costume

Nowadays. Ethnic.

Page 14: National costumes

Ethnic. The national Austrian costume today.Ethnic. The national Austrian costume today.

National costume: the main kinds.       Leibkittel (Traegerrock - sarafan) – a narrow bodice with a skirt. Ordinary women wore aprons over the skirts.

Page 15: National costumes

Austrian costumeNowadays

Collection of modern youth clothes by the Sportalm, which have a base of Austrian national costume.

NowadaysNowadays ethics is one the most popular fashion ethics is one the most popular fashion tendency.tendency.

Page 16: National costumes

Finnish costumeFinnish costume Finnish folk dress is divided in Finnish folk dress is divided in

two groups, namely western and two groups, namely western and Karelian, or eastern.Karelian, or eastern.

The traditional man's costume The traditional man's costume consists of a shirt, long trousers consists of a shirt, long trousers or knee breeches, waistcoat, or knee breeches, waistcoat, jacket or coat, hat or cap, neck jacket or coat, hat or cap, neck scarf, socks and shoes.scarf, socks and shoes.

The woman's costume consists The woman's costume consists of a smock, skirt, bodice or of a smock, skirt, bodice or kirtle, apron, jacket, headdress, kirtle, apron, jacket, headdress, shoes and socks. Typical shoes and socks. Typical accessories include jewellery, accessories include jewellery, belts, kerchiefs and loose belts, kerchiefs and loose pockets.pockets.

Page 17: National costumes

Finnish Western costumeFinnish Western costume A distinctive feature of A distinctive feature of

western Finnish folk western Finnish folk costume was costume was aa colourful colourful array of stripesarray of stripes.. A A cloth cloth was considered to be a was considered to be a sign of wealth.sign of wealth. All of All of these fine fabrics are now these fine fabrics are now used in theused in the production production of of national costumes. national costumes.

The traditional woman's The traditional woman's costume typically costume typically features a long laced features a long laced bodice, a hip length bodice, a hip length jacket andjacket and a a broad broad striped cloth.striped cloth. Women Women wear a 'tanu' cloth wear a 'tanu' cloth a a cap, cap, a 'tykkimyssy' a 'tykkimyssy' ((silk capsilk cap)), , a horn shaped ca. Girls a horn shaped ca. Girls wear a red silk headband. wear a red silk headband.

Page 18: National costumes

Finnish Karelian costumeFinnish Karelian costume The woollen cloth of The woollen cloth of

Karelian women's costumes Karelian women's costumes is white, black, indigo or is white, black, indigo or red. Karelian costume is red. Karelian costume is decorated with colourful decorated with colourful embroidery and traditional embroidery and traditional lacework. Karelian skirts lacework. Karelian skirts are often tightly pleated all are often tightly pleated all the way round, Karelian the way round, Karelian aprons are decorated with aprons are decorated with a variety of horizontal a variety of horizontal stripes. Married women stripes. Married women wear a headscarf, a wear a headscarf, a 'sorokka' headdress or linen 'sorokka' headdress or linen cap. Girls wear a shaped cap. Girls wear a shaped panted headband or a band panted headband or a band decorated with metal studs.decorated with metal studs.

Page 19: National costumes

NowadaysNowadays

FolowingFolowing the folk tradition, national costume is the folk tradition, national costume is principally worn as festive attire. It is suitable principally worn as festive attire. It is suitable for any special occasion, and can be worn as for any special occasion, and can be worn as wedding attire, at balls, or aswedding attire, at balls, or as a a stage costum stage costume. e. Parts of national costumes, however, can be Parts of national costumes, however, can be combined with modern clothes. combined with modern clothes.

Page 20: National costumes

FursFurs

Page 21: National costumes

National costume as a stage National costume as a stage costume.costume.

Page 22: National costumes

Summary upSummary up National costumes preserve a National costumes preserve a

valuable part of folk heritage. They valuable part of folk heritage. They also add a distinctly element to our also add a distinctly element to our modern dress culture.modern dress culture.