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OCTOBER 2010

INTERACTIVE EDITION

Interactive

Exclusive

HOWTHEGULFWORKS

PROTECTING MARINE LIFE

AUSTRALIA’S LOST GIANTS

Brown Pelican,Fort Jackson Bird Rehabilitation Center

SPECIAL REPORT

Inside the Deepwater DisasterThe Toll in the Bayou

Sylvia Earle: Gulf Memories



OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY

VOL. 218 • NO. 4

The Spill

Is another deepwater

disaster inevitable?

In the battle against oil,

the wetlands aren’t giving up

Special Section: Gulf of Mexico

The blue wilderness

of my childhood

October 2010Cover Story

By Joel K. Bourne, Jr.

B y Bruce Barcott

By Sylvia Earle



MORE



Seafood Print

The case for sardines, not tuna.

Australia’s Lost Giants

Jumbo kangaroos once ruled the land.

October 2010 | Features



Being Jane Goodall

Her work made us rethink chimps.

Allard’s West

MORE

VIDEO



OCEANS

Too Many Fish to See

A $6million survey iscreating a census ofcrabs, sea squirts, jellyfish,lampshells, and more.

GEOGRAPHY

Record Hail

Hailstones aren’t easy to make,but they fall with abandon inKenya and are as big as eightinches across in the U.S.

ENVIRONMENT

Everest CleanupThe “death zone” holds6 years’ worth ofdumped gear. Nowthe cleanup begins.

Inside Geographic

Flashback

Editor’s Note

Letters

Your Shot

INTERACTIVE SLIDE SHOW

Visions of Earth

On the CoverOn June 14, the rehabcenter caught the oiled

brown pelican. After abath—the scared birds fightback—it was released July 1.Photo by Joel Sartore

October 2010 | Departments



THE BIG IDEA

Backing Up History

Laser devices are makingdetailed images oflandmarks to aid in anyfuture restoration.

GEOGRAPHY

Crisis Cartography

Volunteers in postquake Haiti quicklyhelped fill in thecartographic blanks.

HEALTH

The Hydration Myth

Eight eightounceglasses a day? Expertsthink that the dictumdoesn’t hold water.

FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND GIFTMEMBERSHIPS, CONTACT CUSTOMERSERVICE AT NGMSERVICE.COM , ORCALL 1--NGS-LINE (647-463).OUTSIDE THE U.S. AND CANADAPLEASE CALL +1-13-979-64.



Inspiring people to care about the planet

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E D I T O R ’ S N O T E

An oily wave breaks on thebeach at Gulf Shores, Alabama.

PHOTO: TYRONE TURNER

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC OCTOBER 1



It is 151 years, three months, and 4days from the day, August 7, 19, when Edwin Drake

drilled the first successful oil well near Titusville, Penn

sylvania, to the blowout of the Deepwater Horizon oil

rig, 4 miles off the coast of Louisiana, this past spring.

Drake’s well, which struck oil at a depth of 69. feet,

launched the modern oil industry. We have been dealing with the consequences of our petroleumfueled

lifestyle ever since. There’s been much fingerpointing

and debate over who is to blame for the stain of oil

in the Gulf of Mexico, but the fault can be said to lie in

no small part within ourselves and our appetite for oil.

It is an appetite that Drake, with his barreladaywell, could not have imagined. The oil from that well,

and others of that era, went mostly into kerosene,

which was replacing whale oil for lighting. Henry Ford’s

company, which would ultimately put car keys in

millions of hands, was nearly half a century away.

Petroleumbased polymers, plastic bottles and bags, fertilizers,

jet planes, the Age of Hydrocarbon Man, as Daniel Yergin calls

it in The Prize, his history of oil, had not yet arrived.

The words that follow in this month’s issue, and the photo

graphs—an oilsoaked pelican, a tarry shoreline, the despair on

fishermen’s faces—remind us that there is more to the cost of

oil than the ticking numbers at the fuel pump.



GreenlandYour article showed the challenges of agriculture in

Greenland. However, it’s a bit unfair to knock Greenland’s

farms for importing fodder from Europe. The European

Union is highly dependent on imports for feeding its

livestock. Over percent of the EU’s protein feed is

imported; it is largely soybeans from the Americas.

Better that Greenlanders develop their agriculture than

become dependent on drilling for oil off the coast.

HERB S. ALDWINCKLEProfessor of Plant Pathology

Cornell UniversityGeneva, New York

While Greenland citizens’ optimistic view of oil and rare

earth profits is understandable, it should be tempered by

recent realities. The deaths of miners in China and West

Virginia and the disaster in the Gulf of Mexico should

warn of the possible price. The thousandyear tradition

of fishing and farming could end tragically, with the newly

wealthy populace sopping up oil or digging out buried

friends and relatives.

DALE BARTOLETTISalinas, California

China’s Caves of Faith

To the foreign curators who contend that “their museumshave saved treasures that might otherwise have been

lost forever— destroyed (Touch Text button to read more.)

L E T T E R S

4 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC OCTOBER 1 L O A



Contact UsEmail [email protected] National GeographicMagazine, PO Box 9199,Washington, DC 9199.

Include name, address,and daytime telephone.Letters may be edited forclarity and length.

The European

Union is highly

dependent on

imports for

feeding its

livestock. Over

50 percent of

the EU’s protein

feed is imported;

it is largelysoybeans from

the Americas.

N G M .C OM | JUNE 2010

WHOOPING CRANE COUNT 68

REDEMPTION IN SOUTH AFRICA 80

LAND OF THE TREE KANGAROO 110

CHINA’S TREASURE CAVES 124

GreenlandGROUND ZERO FOR GLOBAL WARMING

June 1

D I N G



Y O U R S H O T | n g m . c o m / y o u r s h o t

EDITORS’ CHOICE Andrew Davison Arvayheer, Mongolia

An Australian living in Mongolia, Davison, 3, braved ºF

temperatures to witness an annual ice festival held on LakeHovsgol. One of the events was this game, called musnii shagai.

It involves two teams skimming animal bones toward red targets.




Selections from our editors

I N G



V I S I O N S O F E A R T H United States Lunar lightin California’s Joshua Tree




PHOTO: JIM PATTERSON PHOTOGRAPHY

bursts into view beneath Arch Rock, a 1foottall, 3footwide granite formationNational Park. Naturally beige, the rock is illuminated here by a red LED.



United States Nearly camouflaged on the debrisstrewn bottom of Florida’smale jawfish holds hundreds of eggs in its mouth—a fiveday incubation pro



PHOTO: MICHAEL PATRICK O’NEILL

Lake Worth Lagoon, a sixinchlongcess called paternal mouth brooding.



The Sun NASA’s new Solar Dynamics Laboratory reveals an erupting plasmalooping into the atmosphere along a magnetic field line. Ten Earths could be



IMAGE: NASA

plume—aka a solar prominence—stacked inside the twisting ring.

Order prints of National Geographic photos at PrintsNGS.com.



Left on Everest For 6 years climbers have dumped

gear and trash en route to the top of Mount Everest, often in

the lowoxygen “death zone” above 6, feet, where shedding

a few pounds can preserve precious energy.

In recent years melting ice has begun to reveal the scope

of the highaltitude imprint, exposing oxygen tanks and other

longfrozen jetsam. Though tons of refuse are removed annually

from base camps, last spring two Nepali groups, Extreme

Everest Expedition and Eco Everest Expedition, targeted the

peak’s upper reaches and hauled down seven tons of waste,

including debris from a 1973 helicopter crash.

Nepalis are also concerned about corpses collecting on

the mountain they consider holy. Since 1996 some climbers

have perished above base camp; most remain near the spot theydied. In May two bodies, a Swiss and a Russian, were removed

along with a pair of unidentified arms, one wearing a watch.

Bringing back corpses was long considered logistically unfeasi

ble, says Linda McMillan of the International Mountaineering

and Climbing Federation. But as traffic on Everest has risen,

she notes, so too has the desire to clean it. —Peter Gwin

Melting ice exposed an unidentified hand and a watch.

E N V I R O N M E N T

14 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC OCTOBER 1



A Sherpa onMount Everest sortstrash into plastics,metals, andbiodegradables.

PHOTOS: CORY RICHARDS



G E O G R A P H Y

Where’s the Hail? It’s not easy to make a hailstone—

conditions have to be just right. First come cumulonimbus

clouds. What’s needed next are powerful updrafts and

downdrafts. These winds carry forming precipitation up

to the frigid top of the clouds to freeze solid and then

down toward the warmer bottom again to collect more

moisture, before repeating the cycle. The more times thecycle repeats, the bigger the hailstones can grow—and

the more severe the damage down below.

Most hail hits in the midlatitudes, on plains downwind

of major mountain chains. But intense hail conditions

can exist wherever warm, moist air is pushed to great

heights, even near the Equator. The highaltitude teagrowing region of Kericho, Kenya, is more than 7, feet

above sea level and may have more days with hail than

any other place in the world.

In 9, 36 destructive hailstorms in 16 states

caused more than $ million in damage to crops

and property in the United States. With warmer, wettersummers predicted for the Great Plains, experts fear

that number is sure to rise. —Thomas Hayden




PHOTO: JIM REED, CORBIS

This baseballsize hailstone fell in Kansas in May 7.



High

LowNo data

Hailstormfrequencyand intensity

U.S.Largest recordedhailstone nches

in diameter foundin Vivian, SouthDakota, in 1.

MexicoSevere hailhere can affectmonarch butterfly colonies.

KenyaHail seeded bydust from farmingregularly pelts teafields in Kericho.

Argentina

One 3 hailstorm killed 117Swainson’s hawkson the Pampas.

G E O G R A P H Y | C O N T I N U E D

The United States has had some of the largest hailstones,

but Kericho, Kenya, may hold the record for most frequent hail.




Bangladesh

The world’s heaviestknown hailstone. pounds fell inGopalganj in 196.

MAP SOURCE: MUNICH RE, 9

This map is from theninth edition of the Atlasof the World, the mostcomprehensive andlargest format atlas everpublished by NationalGeographic, available

this month. Learn moreat nationalgeographic.com/atlas.



One Fish Two Fish Dr. Seuss had the right idea

but the wrong tools. To begin

a tally of all sea life, he’d

have had to swap rhymes for

research—say, 3 expedi

tions and 3 million recordscataloged over ten years

by ,7 scientists from

more than nations.

That’s what went into the

landmark Census of Marine

Life, which unveils its fullfindings this month. Con

ceived by scientists Frederick

Grassle and Jesse Ausubel,

the $6million survey—

whose biggest funder was the

Alfred P. Sloan Foundation—used everything from cuttingedge

technologies to centuriesold fishing logs to find and ID species,

map ecosystems, and assess data down to 16, feet.

“It’s an astonishing start,” says National Geographic Explorerin

Residence Sylvia Earle. Yet with 9 percent of the ocean depths

still unexplored, she says, a second census is warranted. “Don’t

we want to know who shares the planet with us?” —Jeremy Berlin

O C E A N S




OCEAN CENSUS

These figures hint at thescope of the seminalCensus of Marine Life.

*EXCLUDING MOST MICROBES;NEW SPECIES AS OF JULY 1PHOTO: A. FIFIS, IFREMER 6.ART: JASON LEE 26 microbes

48 echinoderms

37 other

92 cnidarians

562 crustaceans &kin

191 mollusks

67 bristle worms

70 sponges

60 roundworms

50 chordates

At least

one million species*

in the oceans

230,000

previously

discovered

1,203

new speciescataloged by

the census

5,000

moreawaiting

description

The yeti crab left,a sixinchlong SouthPacific native, is justone exotic find.



Hydration experts are ready to rewritethe popular dictum that people shoulddrink eight glasses of water a day.

H E A L T H

Shattering the Water Myth Magazines,websites, even some medical texts recommend guzzling

eight ounce glasses of water a day. The bottledwater

business loves it. Hydration experts, however, aren’t

exactly sure where the “ x ” rule came from—or

whether it holds water.

Mike Sawka, a U.S. Army research scientist, thinksthe origins lie in a 1933 study on rodent hydration.

The research led to a recommendation of . liters a

day, or 4. ounces of liquid, for a moderately active

human to make up for water lost to sweat and

excretions. Twenty percent typically comes from

foods high in water—soup, ice cream, celery—leaving 67.6 ounces, or roughly “ x .”

Exercise or heat adds to a body’s needs.

Only you don’t need eight daily glasses of water.

Other beverages count, even if caffeinated. “The body’s

need to keep fluid trumps the small influence caffeine

might have on losing fluid,” says University of Connecticut

exercise physiologist Douglas Casa. Plus the body isn’t shy

about liquid desires. Drink if you feel thirsty. If not, don’t.

One exception: Hydrate before an intense workout.

When in doubt, check your urine. Dark yellow,

says University of Pennsylvania nutritionist Stella Volpe,

is the hue of dehydration. —Marc Silver




PHOTO: MARK THIESSEN, NGM STAFF, WITH DAN HAVENS



G E O G R A P H Y

Crisis Cartography When disaster strikes,accurate maps can be lifesavers. After a magnitude 7

earthquake rocked Haiti on January 1, first responders

were hampered by the scarcity of street maps—but not

for long. Within hours, volunteers in the capital city,

PortauPrince, and elsewhere had filled in cartographic

blanks, creating far more detailed, accessible, andimmediate maps and images than most

of those available online.

Using text messages, GPS, and plain

old pencils and paper, they dispatched

thousands of alerts a day about street

names, building collapses, and injurylocations. Disasterresponse nerve centers

synthesized the information with satellite data, which

helped guide emergency workers, including the U.S.

Marine Corps and Red Cross.

Usergenerated maps can present pitfalls. Accuracy,

for instance, isn’t guaranteed. But in Haiti benefits

outweighed drawbacks. “Don’t stop mapping,” came

a January 17 call from the Federal Emergency Manage

ment Agency to UshahidiHaiti, a studentrun project at

Tufts University. Crisis mappers won’t. —Hannah Bloch

HAITI

N. AMERICA

S. AMERICA




PHOTOS: MAGGIE STEBER. MAPS: OPENSTREETMAP AND CONTRIBUTORS, LICENSED CC-BY-SA .

DECEMBER 30, 2009

Two weeks before the quake, this usergenerated map of PortauPrinceincluded minimal information about streets and landmarks.

Section

Shown

Above

The January 1 quake reduced this section of PortauPrince’sBoulevard JeanJacques Dessalines to rubble—which still remainedby May 1, when the photos in this panorama were taken.

MORE



JANUARY 13, 2010

OpenStreetMap elicited street names the day after.

G E O G R A P H Y | C O N T I N U E D




PHOTOS: MAGGIE STEBER. MAPS: OPENSTREETMAP AND CONTRIBUTORS, LICENSED CC-BY-SA .

JANUARY 29, 2010

Clinic and shelter locations were soon pinpointed as well.



A falsecolor “point cloud”image of Easter Islandmoai provides greater detailthan a photograph.

T H E B I G I D E A | L A S E R P R E S E R V A T I O N

With portable 3D laser scanners, preservationists are making

digital records of the world’s most vulnerable landmarks.Backing Up History



IMAGE: CYARK/NATIONAL FORESTRY CORPORATION OF CHILE/AUTODESK.



T H E B I G I D E A | C O N T I N U E D

The stone giantscalled moai have kept watch—and

secrets—on Easter Island for centuries. Now preserva

tionists have found a way to learn more about them.

In 7, six workers who’d partnered with the nonprofit

CyArk arrived on the island with a 3D laser scanner

and other surveying equipment. They made high

resolution scans of carvings and caves, producing

a data set so accurate they call it “reality capture.”

CyArk’s mission is to collect detailed digital records

of cultural heritage sites around the world see map at

right, from the Titanic wreck to Mexico’s Teotihuacan. Its

key tool is a portable 3D laser scanner that sweeps an

area with a pulsing laser and returns a highdefinition

map of the surrounding surfaces. With data recordedas close as every half centimeter, the resulting surface

map shows a “point cloud” that can include hundreds of

millions of pieces of data. In addition to 3D coordinates,

the laser scanner records each point’s “intensity return,”

a value that represents the color and brightness of

the scanned object’s surface. These values are shownwith a false coloring. Analysts can use this information

to see where cracks are developing or whether newer

materials have been incorporated into a structure.

Ben Kacyra was one of the inventors of the laser

scanner used in the surveys and is also CyArk’s founder.

He was inspired to start the nonprofit after the Talibandemolished Afghanistan’s Bamian Buddhas in 1.

If detailed laser scans are available, he reasoned, at

Teotihuacan

Easter




Island

Kasubi tombs

Titanic wreck

Scanned projects

ASIA

AFRICA

AUSTRALIA

SOUTH

AMERICA

NORTH

AMERICA EUROPE

least something remains in the event of a site’s loss.

Such a loss occurred earlier this year, when fire

consumed the royal Kasubi tombs in Uganda. Four

kings of Buganda—a kingdom within the country—

were entombed in the woodandthatch structure.

A year earlier, though, CyArk had collected scansthere. Within days of the fire, a Buganda prince

was talking to CyArk about rebuilding.

NGM MAPS

The nonprofit CyArk has createddigital records of important culturalheritage sites around the world.

MORE



1

3

2

CyArk has identified more than atrisk sites to sur

vey. Where resources allow, it works with an international

network of partners to scan the sites—3 so far. All data

collected is archived and publicly available at cyark.org.

“Our collective memory is in the works of man,”

Kacyra says. “This is really not just a matter of preservingthis site or that site. It’s a matter of preserving our human

collective memory.” —Elizabeth Preston

T H E B I G I D E A | C O N T I N U E D




3 Destroyed in 2010 Local peoplegathered asflames engulfedthe tombs. Thecause of the fireremains unknown.

1 Built in 1882Uganda’s Kasubitombs were declared a UNESCO World Heritagesite in 1. Fourkings were buriedin this thatchedstructure.

2 Scanned in 2009 A CyArk laserscan createdthis point cloudimage revealingdetails, includingthe building’shighceilingedinterior.

PHOTOS: SKYBUCKET3D (1); CYARK (); AFP/GETTY IMAGES (3)



THE GULF OF OIL

34



Smoke rises from surface oil

being burned by cleanup crewsnear the Deepwater Horizon blowout. The well spewed nearlyfive million barrels, making it theworld’s largest accidental marineoil spill. JOEL SARTORE (BOTH)



UNFLAGGING DEMANDFOR OIL PROPELLED THEINDUSTRY INTO DEEP WATER.BUT THE BLOWOUT IN THEGULF FORCES THE QUESTION:

IS IT WORTH THE RISK?



“You could see the life drainingout of it,” says parish officialP. J. Hahn, who impulsivelyrescued this severely oiledbrown pelican on Queen BessIsland, La. The bird lived.JOEL SARTORE



Bottlenose dolphins slipthrough oiled waters in Chandeleur Sound, La. An adultdolphin can weigh up to 6pounds. Because of their size,only a few were rescued andrelocated to clean waters.ALEX BRANDON, AP IMAGES



“Mix two parts sugar whitesand with one part crystal bluewater,” reads a tourism slogan

for Orange Beach, Ala. In earlyJune Deepwater Horizon oilwas added to the recipe.

TYRONE TURNER



A shrimp the size of a stapleswims amid dark brown globules of oil. The effect of thespill on the eggs and larvae ofshrimps, crabs, and fish, all key

to the local economy, remainsunknown. DAVID LIITTSCHWAGER



THE SPILL’S UNSEEN TOLL

In timelapse video, three formaldehydefilled

jars tell a tale of diminishing life in a water col

umn about 9 miles north of the well. The initial

May 4 sample, collected by the Dauphin Island

Sea Lab, Ala., shows a normal amount of plankton—minute plants and animals that are the foundation

of the ocean’s food chain. The June jar holds

only 4 percent of the first. The June jar is

down to 1 percent. Plankton cannot survive

as waters become hypoxic—depleted of oxygen.

The probable cause in this case: microbesdigesting oil and methane gas from the

spill. DAVID LIITTSCHWAGER




I N G



DEEP TROUBLE Waters sampled about 3 feet deep on June supporta thriving population of tiny crustaceans called copepods left. Twenty feetfarther below was a hypoxic layer almost devoid of life. Deep waters aremore likely to remain hypoxic. DAVID LIITTSCHWAGER (BOTH)



Their waters closed by thespill, fishermen in St. BernardParish, La., attended a May 1BP training for cleanup crews—and bowed heads for an archbishop’s impromptu prayer.TYRONE TURNER



THE GUL

SPECIAL REPORT




THE DEEP DILEMMABY JOEL K. BOURNE, JR.

FORLORN IN THE BAYOUBY BRUCE BARCOTT

HOW THE GULF WORKSEXCLUSIVE INTERACTIVE GRAPHICS

MY BLUE WILDERNESSBY SYLVIA EARLE

F OF OIL



THE DEEPDILEMMATe depths of the Gulf of Mexico are one of the

most dangerous places to drill on the planet.

BY JOEL K. BOURNE, JR.

On a blistering June day H, L,

c fc BP—w Deepwater Horizon -

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Joel Bourne is a contributing writer. His articleabout California’s water supply appeared in April.

SPECIAL REPORT

4 L O A



The $6million Deepwater Horizon drilling rig burns afterthe April well blowout. Elevenworkers died in the explosionand flames that followed. OnApril the rig sank.GERALD HERBERT, AP IMAGES

I N G



LOUISIANA

MISSISSIPPI

C O M M E R C I Aas o f

NewOrleans

Houma

BiloxiBaton Rouge

90°W

Gulf of

Mexico

Lake Pontchartrain

M i s s i s s i p pi

THE BATTEREDGULF COASTTwo centuries of efforts to tame the Mississippi

River with levees, pumps, and channels have left

its vast wetlands ecosystem dwindling and on the

verge of collapse. “We know there was a crisis inthe Gulf prior to what happened April ,” Tom

Strickland, an assistant secretary of the interior,

said after the Deepwater Horizon spill. Coastal

restoration plans have been authorized by Con

gress but are not yet under way. They include

breaking open levees to restore the flow of riversto marshlands. Environmentalists are lobbying

to apply oil spill penalty funds to restoration.

Surface oil*Cumulativedaily survey

Oiled coast*

3+11 day

*May 17–July , 1

AREAENLARGED

PACIFICOC EAN

NORTH

AMERICA

SOUTH AMERICA




MACONDO WELL

site of Deepwater

Horizon blowout

FLORIDA

GEORGIAALABAMA

F I S H I N G B AN J u l y 2 5

L o o p C urrent Jul y 2 5

L o o

p C u r

r e n t J u n e 2 0

L o o p

C u r r e n t M ay 17

Tampa

Mobile

Pensacola

Panama

City

Tallahassee

27°N

84°

AN OILY STAIN Winds and currents spread surface oil, contaminating more than 6 miles of coastline, most in Louisiana. The

spill prompted a fishing ban in onethird of federal waters partlyrescinded in late July and a massive and ongoing cleanup effort.Experts believe much of the oil never reached the surface andremains in voluminous and elusive underwater plumes.

SAM PEPPLE AND LISA R. RITTER, NGM STAFF. SOURCES: NOAA(SURFACE OIL); U.S. NAVAL RESEARCH LABORATORY (LOOP CURRENT);NOAA AND UNIFIED AREA COMMAND (OILED COAST)

0 mi 50

0 km 50



Canals carved throughGolden Meadow, La., andelsewhere hold pipelines thatdeliver oil and gas from offshore wells. This choppingup of the wetlands is one ofmany forces contributing tothe decline of the MississippiDelta. JOEL SARTORE



Annual Revenue

$101.5 billion

OIL AND GAS

62.7

COMMERCIALFISHING

0.7

TOURISM

38.1

1 block = $1 billion

WORKING GULF

Oil dominates revenues from the Gulf, but the em

ployment giant is tourism. Louisiana, regional leader

in commercial fishing before the spill, normally

harvests a third of the U.S. shrimp and oyster catch.




Jobs*

645,000

107,000OIL AND GAS

14,000COMMERCIALFISHING

TOURISM

524,000

1 block = 6,34 jobs

*Estimates

NGM ART. SOURCES: EIA (OIL, ); TOURISMDEPARTMENTS OF ALABAMA, LOUISIANA,MISSISSIPPI, AND TEXAS, AND FLORIDADEPARTMENT OF REVENUE (TOURISM, 9);NOAA (FISHING, , DOCKSIDE VALUE).JOBS: MOST RECENT AVAILABLE DATA FROM

MULTIPLE SOURCES



FORLORN INTHE BAYOULouisiana’s wetlands have bounced back before.

But no one knows how long this recovery will take.

BY BRUCE BARCOTT

Where land meets the sea Mpp R

D, w L ,

“c” ’ pp. T .

T p k

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25 .

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Environmental journalist Bruce Barcott lives on Bainbridge Island,Washington. Tis is his fourth feature for N Gpc.

SPECIAL REPORT

6 L O A



Workers bag oilcollectingpompoms near a bird rookeryin Barataria Bay, La. Absorbentboom snakes at their feet. Bythe end of July, the cleanuphad generated almost 4,tons of solid waste.JOEL SARTORE

I N G



A dead juvenile sea turtle liesmarooned in oil in Barataria Bay,La. More than sea turtlesdied in the spill area. As ofAugust , eggs from 134 turtlenests had been moved to oilfree beaches, and ,134 hatchlings released. JOEL SARTORE



In midMay pools of oil movedinto Louisiana’s wetlands. BPboats laid yellow and orangeboom to corral the oil for cleanup, white boom to soak it up. Oil

covered the grass, but by midJuly new growth had sprouted.TED JACKSON, TIMES-PICAYUNE



Workers wipe oil from marshgrass in St. Tammany Parish,La. It does look silly, a parishspokesman concedes, usingdiaperlike cloths to “wipe upseven billion blades of grass.”But the task helped gauge thedegree of marsh grass contamination, which turned out to besmall, and provided oil samplesfor testing. SCOTT THRELKELD,TIMES-PICAYUNE



Rustcolored crude oil coatsa blue crab’s face and claws atGrand Isle State Park, La.C. C. LOCKWOOD



Oilstained brown pelicanchicks huddle on Cat Island, abarrier island forming the westernmost point of Gulf IslandsNational Seashore. Unsullied

juveniles stand behind.JOEL SARTORE



A brown pelican rests at theFort Jackson Bird Rehabilitation Center in Buras, La., aftera cleaning. Only a tiny fraction

of birds are retrieved and released. No one yet knows howoil and dispersants will affectreproduction. JOEL SARTORE



LAYERS OF LIFEThe rich habitats of the Gulf of Mexico help make it one of the

most ecologically and economically productive bodies of water

in the world. Its environments range from sandy, ever shifting

barrier islands to muddy, tidewashed marshes, from frigid dark

zones miles deep to immense islands of floating seaweed. Even

before the Deepwater Horizon rig explosion on April , 1,which spewed millions of barrels of oil into the water, the Gulf

was battling serious problems, including overfishing, extensive

wetlands loss, and a huge oxygenstarved “dead zone” at the

mouth of the Mississippi River. The oil spill is affecting every

habitat, testing the Gulf’s resilience.

SPECIAL REPORT




MORE

Detailed art on

next page



A GEOGRAPHYOF OFFSHORE OILFor the past half century, oil has driven the economy of the Gulf

of Mexico. A third of U.S. oil production flows from nearly 3,

platforms in the Gulf, with thousands of miles of pipeline delivering

oil and natural gas to shore. Since the first Gulf well was drilled

off Louisiana in 193, in less than 1 feet of water, closein reserves have been depleted and exploration has marched off the

continental shelf, onto the continental slope, and beyond. Today

Gulf oil is deep oil; the bulk of U.S. production draws from wells in

more than a thousand feet of water. U.S. Gulf oil reserves are

estimated at 44.9 billion barrels, but as the Deepwater Horizon

disaster showed, the challenges of deep drilling are formidable.




MORE

Detailed map on

next page



RUSSIA266

CHINA746

THAILAND215

VIETNAM332

BRUNEI126

MALAYSIA655

INDONESIA330

AUSTRALIA400

NEW ZEALAND51

UNITED STATES2,087

ME2,

EQUATOR

PACIFIC

OCEAN

ARCTIC

OCEAN

ExxonValdez

1

8

ALASKA

DRILLING FOROFFSHORE OILUndersea oil provides an increasing amount of the global

supply, as exploration heads ever deeper in search of new

“plays.” In wells more than 4 meters below the seasurface will likely provide 1 percent of the world’s oil. But

going deep poses technical challenges and safety risks.

Top five offshoreproducers, 2009

Saudi ArabiaUnited States

NorwayMexicoBrazil

Top five estimatedoffshore reserves

Saudi ArabiaBrazilUnited Arab Emirates

United StatesNigeria




*ONLY COUNTRIES PRODUCING AT LEAST 25,000 BARRELS A DAY ARE SHOWN(ONE BARREL = 4 U.S. GALLONS). FOR LEGIBILITY, SOME PIE CHARTS ARESHOWN INLAND OR OUTSIDE THEIR COUNTRY BOUNDARIES.

NIGERIA1,606

CÔTE D'IVOIRE(IVORY COAST)

55

CONGO250

CANADA299

TRINIDAD ANDTOBAGO87

VENEZUELA45

BRAZIL1,765

NORWAY2,065

UNITEDKINGDOM

1,256

DENMARK264

AZERBAIJAN962

TURKMENISTAN47

INDIA439

LIBYA167

TUNISIA30

KUWAIT139

EGYPT447

IRAN733

SAUDIARABIA

2,216EQ. GUINEA

315

CAMEROON73

GABON114

ROMANIA26

QATAR

761

ANGOLA1,763

ICO59

Gulf of Guinea

Persian Gulf Gulf of Mexico

North Sea

INDIAN

OCEAN

ATLANTIC

OCEAN

Atlantic Empress & AegeanCaptain

09

7

6

5

41

3

2

1

Shallow waterDeep water >4 meters,

Offshore oil fields

Top ten offshore platform spills,ranked by size chart belowThousands of barrels a day*

OFFSHORE OIL PRODUCTION, 2009

MORE



1. Deepwater Horizon Gulf of Mexico, 2010

. Ixtoc I Gulf of Mexico,1979

3. Nowruz Persian Gulf,193

4. Wodeco 3 Persian Gulf,1971

. Escravos Gulf of Guinea,197

6. Funiwa No. Gulf of Guinea,197. Phillips Ekofisk B14 North Sea,1977

. Union Oil Platform A southern California,1969

9. Ron Tappmeyer Persian Gulf,19

1. Chevron Block 41C Gulf of Mexico,197

Top ten offshore platformMillions of barrels




1

4.9**

3 4

spills, 19692010

199ExxonValdez.7

1979 Collision of Atlantic Empress and Aegean Captain .1 largest tanker spill

**AUGUST , 1, ESTIMATE; OF THIS TOTAL, 800,000

BARRELS OF OIL WERE CAPTURED BY BP AT THE WELL.

MARTIN GAMACHE, NGM STAFF. SOURCES: PETER BURGHERR, PAULSCHERRER INSTITUTE (PLATFORM SPILLS); FLOW RATE TASK GROUP(DEEPWATER ESTIMATES); IHS ENERGY (RESERVES); MICHAEL R. SMITH,DATAMONITOR, “GLOBAL OIL AND GAS ANALYZER” (9 PRODUCTION)



T

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90

90

61

310

10

Thibodaux

Raceland

PortFourchon

Larose

Montegut

Chauvin

Dulac

Boudreaux

Cocodrie Leeville

Galliano

Cut Off Bourg

Lockport

Mathews

Bayou Cane

DonnerGibson

Gray

AllemandLafitte

B

Crown Po

Ha

West

Jefferso

Waggaman

Avondale

RiverRidge

Harahan

Mimosa Park

Ama

Luling

Boutte

DestrehanSt. Rose

DesAllemandsLabadieville

Schriever

Lafourche

Belle River

Vacherie

Wallace

Berwick

Idlewild

Patterson

BayouVista

Morgan City

Amelia

Supreme Kraemer

Hahnville

Norco

St. James

Convent

GramercyReserve

EdgardPaulina

PlattenvillePaincourtville

Donaldsonville

Napoleonville

Grand Bayou

Pierre Part

Belle RoseBayouCorne

Chackbay

Good Hope

Golden Meadow

G l e n

w i l d

Houma

Marrero

LaPlace

Kenner

MetairieOr

Point au Fer Island

Calumet I.Timbalier

Island

Casse-tete I.

East Timbalier I.

I s l e s D e r n i e r e s

Atchafalaya River Delta

TERREBONNE

LAFOURCHE

ST. MARY

IBERVILLE

JEFFER

ST. CHARLES

ASSUMPTION

ASCENSION

ST. JAMES

ST. MARTIN

ST. MARTIN

ST. JOHNTHE BAPTIST

IBERIA

Lake Po ntch

Timbalier Ba yTerrebonne

Ba y

G U L F O F M E X I C O

Lake

Salvador

Lac des

Allemands

LakeCataouatche

Lake

Verret

Caillou

Lake

Caillou

Bay Lake Pelto

Lake Barre

Atchafalaya

Bay

Lit tle

Lake

Lake Raccourci

Catfish Lake

Little Lake

LakeTambour

Dog Lake

Pelican Lake

Lake Mechant

Lake De Cade

Lake Boudreaux

Madison Bay

Lost Lake

Lake Fields

INTRACOASTALWATERWAY

M i s si s si p p i

Lake Theriot

Lake Palourde

Bateman Lake

F o u r L

e a g u e B

a y

A t c h a

f a l a y a

ENDANGERED WETLANDSThe Deepwater Horizon spill is just the latest threat to the

Mississippi River Delta and its inhabitants. Both natural processes and human interference have submerged more than

,3 square miles of coastal marshes. Nonetheless, the area

is still one of the world’s richest river deltas, home to shrimp

and oyster fisheries, endangered sea turtles, millions of birds,

a multibilliondollar oil industry, and two million people.



T

T

T

T

T

T

T

T

T

T

T

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T

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T

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R

R

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23

23

90

10

510

Grand Isle

Bassa Bassa

Bohemia

Happy Jack

GrandBayou

Lake Judge Perez

Home Place

PortSulphur

Pilottown

Port Eads

Burrwood

Buras

Ostrica

TriumphBoothville

Nairn

Empire

Pointe a la Hache

Davant

rataria Belair

Oakville

int

Dalcour

EstelleScarsdale

Bertrandville

Reggio

Hopedale

Alluvial City

Delacroix

ShellBeachVerret

Belle Chasse

Arabi

Violetvey

Gretna ego

CaernarvonSebastopol

Venice

P o y d r a s

Ironton

Myrtle GrovePhoenix

Carlisle

Chalmette

Ter r y to w n

eweans

Chandeleur

Islands

Grand Isle

Queen Bess I.

Pelican Island

Breton Islands

Mississippi River Delta

PLAQUEMINES

ON

ORLEANS

ST.BERNARD

S TA T E WA T E

R S

C O M B I N E D S

TA T E

A N D F E D E RA

L WA T E R S

F E D E RA L WA

T E R S

rtrain

Baratar ia

Bay

Br eton

Sound

Chandeleur Sound

LakeBorgne

Caminada

Bay

The Pen

West Bay

Eas t Bay

Garden Island Bay

Bay Long

M i s s i s s i p p i

0 mi 10

0 km 10

T

R

Tidal flats and shoals

Sea grass

Saltwater marsh

Intermediate marsh

Freshwater marsh

Other freshwater wetland

Upland

Urban areaOil or gas well

Crude oil or

gas terminal

Oil refinery

Oil or gas pipeline

WILLIAM MCNULTY, NGM STAFF;DEBBIE GIBBONS AND MAUREEN J.FLYNN, NG MAPS; THEODORE A.SICKLEY. SOURCES: NOAA ANDTHE NATURE CONSERVANCY(LAND COVER); MMS ANDLOUISIANA DEPARTMENT OFNATURAL RESOURCES, OFFICEOF CONSERVATION AND OFFICEOF COASTAL MANAGEMENT (OILAND GAS INFRASTRUCTURE);LANDSCAN (URBAN AREAS)



1

1,

Feetbelow

sea level

3,

,

7,

9,

Pilottown

Venice

Port Eads

1,000 to4,999 ft

Up to999 ft deep

DEEPWATERWELLSIn the Gulf since 1977

SHALLOWWATER WELLSIn the Gulf since 1938

ULTRADEEPWATER WELLSIn the Gulf sinc

C

N

Mississippi

River Delta

FIXED193Up to 1,74VK1

Type

First used

Depth ft

Example

SEAFARING RIGS

Floating rigs, first developed inthe 196s, have opened deepwater to petroleum exploration.

Floating platforms allow siphoning of oil from wells that canbe many miles from shore.

DRILLING DEEPERAs oil and gas reserves close to shore have been

pumped dry, prospectors are plumbing a new

frontier: the depths of the Gulf of Mexico. In 9

Gulf oil production jumped 34 percent—largely

from waters deeper than , feet. New tech

nologies have made it possible to drill morethan 3, feet down through water and rock.

JUAN VELASCO, NGM STAFF. ART BY BRYAN CHRISTIE. SOURCES: RENAUD BOUROULLEC,COLORADO SCHOOL OF MINES, AND PAUL WEIMER, UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO (GEOLOGYAND BATHYMETRY); LOUISIANA DEPARTMENT OF NATURAL RESOURCES (SHALLOW-WATERWELLS); MMS (DEEP AND ULTRADEEP WELLS, OIL FROM FEDERAL LEASES); ENERGYINFORMATION ADMINISTRATION, OR EIA (U.S. PRODUCTION)



2 3 4

Saltstructures

5,000 ft or more

e 1987

t i n e n t a

l S h e l f

G u l f o f

M e x

i c o

D e e

p o c

e a n f l o

o r

C o n t i n e n t

a l S l o p e

Deepwater Horizon

4

3

2

1

TENSIONLEG199Up to ,Ram/Powell

SEMISUBMERSIBLE1963UnlimitedDeepwater Horizon

FPS*Early sUnlimitedNa Kika

*Floating Production Systems

SCALE VARIES IN THISPERSPECTIVE. THE DISTANCEBETWEEN PORT EADS AND THEFORMER SITE OF THE DEEPWATERHORIZON IS ABOUT MILES.

ORIGINS OF GULF OIL

Organic material that settled in the Gulf over the past 1 million yearswas transformed into vast pools of oil and natural gas by time, pressure,and heat. The petroleum rises through faults until it is trapped by saltstructures, some more than a mile below the seafloor.

MORE



Shallow water

Deep Ultrade

.1

.

.3

19919 199

1

3

19919 199

U.S. Gulf oil from federal leBillions of barrels, by depth

U.S. domestic oil productioBillions of barrels




ep

Onshore

Alaska andCalifornia offshore

Gulf offshore 9

9

ases, 1985–2009

n, 1985–2009



MY BLUEWILDERNESS

BY SYLVIA EARLE

When I irst ventured into G Mxc 1950, pp

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, ,

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Sylvia Earle, author of T B: Hw F c’ A , has led more than 100 expeditionsas part of her oceanographic research.

SPECIAL REPORT

94 L O A



Mission Blue Partnership

TYRONE TURNER

In the face of urgent threats to the oceans, theNationalGeographic Society, Waitt Family Foundation, DeepSearch Foundation, and National Geographic ExplorerinResidence Sylvia Earle and National GeographicFellow Enric Sala have joined ranks to establish MissionBlue, a new global initiative that seeks to restore thehealth and productivity of the seas. One of its signal

goals will be to promote the creation of marineprotected areas in critical ecosystems from the Polesto the tropics. Another aim will be to support solutionbased research to reduce overfishing while consideringthe loss of marinebased livelihoods worldwide. “Thiseffort is not only to inspire people to care about theoceans, but also to inspire people to act,” says Sala,who is a marine ecologist. “If we do something today,we know we’ll have an impact tomorrow.” To learn howto support this new campaign to save the seas, go toocean.nationalgeographic.com.

I N G



TUNA BOAT, SOLOMON ISLANDSJONATHAN CLAY

TOO MANY HOOKS IN THE WATER. That’sthe problem with today’s fisheries. Workingfrom small poleandline boats to giant industrialtrawlers, fishermen remove more than 17 billionpounds of wildlife a year from the seas. A new

study suggests that our current appetite couldsoon lead to a worldwide fisheries collapse.



85.21994 peak

16.7 million metric tons of fish19

77.96



Fish don’t stand a chance nowadays. Factory shipslike this Lithuanian trawler off Mauritania above roam

the world, hauling in massive amounts of fish and freezing the catch along the way.

JEAN GAUMY, MAGNUM PHOTOS. CHART: MARIEL FURLONG, NGM STAFFSOURCE: SEA AROUND US PROJECT, UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA FISHERIES CENTRE

GLOBAL MARINE CAPTURE During the past yearsthe annual world seafood catch has more than quadrupled, as fishing fleets have added new technologies andventured into previously unexploited regions.



EMPTY SEA, FULL MARKET Hundreds to thousands of poundsof salmon move through Seattle’s Pike Place Market each day,much of it caught in Alaska’s wellmanaged waters. While affluent nations may practice good fisheries management at home,they often rely on poorly monitored developing countries formuch of their seafood. The result could be empty fish marketsin the poorest places. DIANE COOK AND LEN JENSHEL



w pk c

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c, c, (ouch x button to read more.)Paul Greenberg is the author of F F: T F L F. He lives with his family in Manhattan.

BY PAUL GREENBERG

Just before dawn a seafood summit convenes near

Honolulu Harbor. As two dozen or so buyers enter

the United Fishing Agency warehouse, they don




Phytoplankton and algae drive ocean ecosystems. They cap

ture solar energy through photosynthesis and, when eaten

by zooplankton, transfer that energy up the food chain. Small

fish eat zooplankton and in turn are eaten by big fish, which

are targeted by fishermen.

The Ocean Food ChainMORE

* Look for the special issue Ocean on newsstandsnow and at ngm.com/oceanspecial.

LEVEL

4

LEVEL

2

LEVEL

3

LEVEL

1

I N G



LEVEL

4TOP PREDATORS

Slow to reproduce, these fish are among

the most energy demanding in the sea.



ATLANTIC SALMONMost Atlantic salmon sold

in the U.S. come from aquaculture operations, wherethey are fed fish meal, addingto the pressures on wild fish.

ORANGE ROUGHYThe orange roughy fishery inthe Southern Hemisphere was

heavily exploited in the 19s.The largest of these deepseafish live a century or more.

ATLANTIC BLUEFIN TUNA

Because overfishing has cut thepopulation of this fish to a fractionof its original abundance, conservationists urge a fishing moratorium.

MORE



LEVEL

3INTERMEDIATE PREDATORS

These species are vital for keeping

lowerlevel fish populations in check.

ALASKA POLLOCK Although its biomass has declinedin recent years, this species oftensold as fish sticks remains thelargest U.S. fishery by volume.



ATLANTIC HERRINGImportant prey for seabirds, oceanmammals, and other fish, the Atlantic herring was overfished in the196s but is now recovering.

JAPANESE FLYING SQUIDPreyed upon by albatrosses andsperm whales, the Japanese flyingsquid lives only a year or so butcan replenish its population quickly.

MORE



LEVEL

2FIRST-ORDER CONSUMERS

Able to reproduce quickly, these species

account for much of the ocean biomass.

PERUVIAN ANCHOVETAThe world’s largest fishery byvolume, anchoveta are often

ground up for animal feed. ElNiño events drive big ups anddowns in their populations.



ZOOPLANKTON

These tiny animals feed onphytoplankton and are eatenby fish and baleen whales.

AMERICAN LOBSTER

Since the population of its mainpredator, cod, was overfishedand collapsed, the Americanlobster has rebounded.

MORE



LEVEL

1PRIMARY PRODUCERS

Organisms at the lowest level capture

solar energy through photosynthesis.

ALGAEPopular as food around the world,red algae seaweed species needonly water and light to thrive.



PHYTOPLANKTONMicroscopic, plantlike organismsare so abundant in the sea thatthey are responsible for half ofEarth’s photosynthesis.

MARIEL FURLONG, NGM STAFF, AND ALEJANDRO TUMASART: HERNÁN CAÑELLASSOURCES: ENRIC SALA; SEA AROUND US PROJECT, UNIVERSITYOF BRITISH COLUMBIA FISHERIES CENTRE; BARTON SEAVER



TOP PREDATORS INTERMEDIATEPREDATORS

10 pounds of level 3 fish

When you eat

1 poundof a level 4 fish,

it’s like eating ...

But if you consume

1 poundof level 3 fish,

it’s like eating ...

LEVEL

3LEVEL

4

What We Eat Makes a Difference

MARIEL FURLONG, NGM STAFF, ANDALEJANDRO TUMAS. SOURCE: SEA AROUNDUS PROJECT, UNIVERSITY OF BRITISHCOLUMBIA FISHERIES CENTRE




FIRSTORDERCONSUMERS

PRIMARYPRODUCERS

or100 pounds

of level fish

or 1,000 pounds of level 1 organisms

or 100 poundsof level 1 organisms

10 poundsof level fish

LEVEL

1LEVEL

2

A top predator requires exponentially more energy to survive than

does a fish at a lower level of the food chain. When wealthy nations

catch or buy top predators, they increase their impact on the ocean

compared with poor nations, which tend to eat smaller fish.



INDIAN OCEAN

INDIAN OCEAN

A

ASIA

AUSTRA

ASIA

AUSTRA

Early 1950s

Early 2000s

Where Fish Are Caught

A: SOUTHEAST ASIAThe popularity of sushi hastaken a toll on tuna stocks.Several species are showingsigns of decline.

HARVESTING PATTERNS

B: EXCLUSIVE ECONOMICZONES Created in 19, thezones have slowed the growthof fisheries within nautical

miles of nations’ coasts.

C: GLOBAL SOUTHAfter fleets moved into watersaround Antarctica, Chilean seabass stocks were quicklydepleted.

D: NORTH ATLANTICA thousand years of fishingby everyone from Vikings tomodern Spaniards has drivencod to near collapse.

E: EASTERN ATLANTIC Euro

pean fleets have targeted Africa’s coasts. Leaders sellingfishing rights may ignore coststo local food supplies.

MARTIN GAMACHE, NGM STAFF. SOURCE: SEA AROUND US PROJECT,UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA FISHERIES CENTRE



EQUATOR

ARCTIC OCEAN

PACIFICOCEAN ATLANTIC

OCEAN

EQUATOR

ARCTIC OCEAN

PACIFICOCEAN ATLANTIC

OCEAN E

C

B

D

IA

ANTARCTICA

SOUTH

AMERICA

AFRICA

EUROPE NORT H

AMERICA

IA

ANTARCTICA

SOUTH

AMERICA

AFRICA

EUROPE NORT H

AMERICA

Maps show harvest intensity: ocean catch by halfdegree cell

93 sq mi; ,41 sq km, expressed in terms of primary pro

duction metric tons of phytoplankton over a fiveyear period.

LOW

HIGH



Catch: Top 20

TOTAL

LANDINGSMILLION METRIC TONS OF FISH

LANDINGSMILLION METRIC TONS OF FISH

Consumption: Top 20

Chinaexcept Taiwan Chinaexcept Taiwan

Japan 9.0

U.S. 4.7

Indonesia 3.6

India 3.1

Philippines 2.1

Thailand 2.4

Russia 2.1

South Korea 2.7

Nigeria 1.8

Spain 1.6

Taiwan 1.5

U.K. 1.5

Norway 1.4

Malaysia 1.4

France 1.4

Mexico 1.4

Italy 1.3

Vietnam 1.3

Chile 1.3

Peru 8.3

U.S. 4.9

Japan 4.4

Chile 4.2

Indonesia 4.2

India 3.4

Russia 3.1

Thailand 2.6

Norway 2.6

Philippines 2.0

Denmark 2.0

Iceland 1.9

South Korea 1.7

Vietnam 1.6

Malaysia 1.3

Mexico 1.3Myanmar 1.1Canada 1.1Taiwan 1.0

9.9

62.6

59.2TOTAL

13.6 Annual average 2001–05ASIAN. AMERICA

EUROPEAFRICAS. AMERICA



Industrial33%

Food 67%

Who Catches and Who ConsumesWealthy nations once obtained most of their fish by fishing.

Today they’re more likely to buy a swordfish than to catch it.

Japan consumes more than twice as much fish as it catches,

while Peruvians, the number two seafood producers in the

world, consume barely any at all.

MARIEL FURLONG, NGM STAFF, AND ALEJANDRO TUMAS. SOURCE: SEA AROUND US PROJECT,UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA FISHERIES CENTRE

TOTAL CONSUMPTION

Annual average 1Not all of the fish that are caughtare eaten. A third of today’s catchis used for industrial purposes,such as the manufacturing ofpaints and cosmetics or feed for

farmraised salmon, tuna, andeven pigs and chickens.



LOST GIANT 11



The prehistoric megafauna landscape survives in CradleMountain–Lake St. Clair National Park in Tasmania.S

ART BY ADRIE AND ALFONS KENNIS

Huge kangaroos and flightless birds,rhino-size browsers, and a predator thatcould kill them all: Such were the mega-

fauna that once dominated Australia. Thenmost vanished. Did the Ice Age finally catch up with them? Or did humans

hunt them to extinction?



MARSUPIAL LION

Thylacoleo carnifex

Unrivaled predator, leopardsizeT. carnifex stalked open forest and shrubland

in search of prey, which probably included

newly arrived humans. The continent’s largest

mammalian carnivore, weighing up to 3

pounds and up to 3 inches tall at the shoulder,

this hunter likely thrived as an ambush artist.Bursting from undergrowth, it could throttle

much larger game, grasping its prey with

daggersharp thumb claws and finishing

it off with its large front teeth.



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BY JOEL ACHENBACH

PHOTOGRAPHS BY AMY TOENSING




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Joel Achenbach is reporting on the Gulf oil spill for the P. Amy oensing covered the drought in Australia’s Murray-Darling River Basin in April 2009. Dutch twin brothers and artists, Adrie and AlfonsKennis specialize in paintings and models of extinct animals and humans.

(ouch x button to read more.)

I N G



Park guides scout bonerich sedimentin Kelly Hill Caves on Kangaroo Island,possibly one of the last places megafauna survived in Australia. Scientistsare finding abundant remains ofanimals that fell into the caves.



GIANT WOMBATDiprotodon optatum

A plodding colossus, D. optatum, the largest known

marsupial, grew to rhinoceros size. The biggest ones

reached over six feet tall at the shoulder and ten feet long,

their furry, pillarlike legs supporting three tons of weight.Diprotodon occupied a niche similar to the African elephant,

browsing on shrubs and collecting at water holes. Its SUV

size and lack of agility would have made it a tempting

target for marsupial lions and human hunters.




GIANT SHORT-FACED KANGAROOProcoptodon goliah

No living kangaroo can do this: reach above its

head and pull leaves off a tree. Long, clawed fingers

and forelimbs that could extend upward like human

arms allowed P. goliah, the largest kangaroo ever,to thrive as a browser in open forests. The sevenfoot

tall marsupial with hooflike toes was one of the last

of the megafauna to go extinct, overlapping with

humans for thousands of years and likely

inspiring Aboriginal tales about

a longlimbed fighting roo.



STIRTON’S THUNDERBIRD

Dromornis stirtoni

Perhaps the largest known bird, D. stirtoni neverleft the ground. Ten feet tall and weighing a thousand

pounds, it belonged to a family of giant flightless birds,

the dromornithids. Humans never saw Stirton’s thunder

bird; it lived about eight million years ago in the late

Miocene, when Australia was drying out.

MARSUPIAL TAPIR

Palorchestes painei

“Tree wreckers”: that’s how paleontologist Tim

Flannery describes Palorchestes, cowsize marsupials

that used powerful limbs, a trunklike nose, and a long

giraffetype tongue to strip bark and tear up roots. Scien

tists first mistook their teeth for those of giant kangaroos

but wombats and koalas are their closest kin.



0 mi 500

0 km 500

PA C I F I CO CEAN

I N DI A N O CEAN

Cuddie Springs

Naracoorte Caves,Victoria Fossil Cave

Mammoth Cave,Tight Entrance Cave

Drysdale RiverNational Park

Cradle Mountain– Lake St. ClairNational Park

Wellington Caves

Perth

Adelaide

Alice Springs

Sydney

Canberra

ARNHEM

LAND

A U S T R A L I A

NEW ZEALAND

Nullarbor Plain

Tasmania

KangarooIsland

MYSTERIOUS EXTINCTIONS

Between , and 1, years ago, twothirds of all large

animal genera in the world, from mastodons to giant kanga

roos, disappeared. Was climate change, with shifts in rainfall

patterns and vegetation, responsible for the dieoff of mega

fauna largebodied animals weighing about a hundred pounds

or more? Or, as mounting evidence suggests, did the fanning

out of humans from Africa and Asia—a new, sophisticated

predator—contribute to rapid, continentwide extinctions?

HIRAM HENRIQUEZ AND PATRICIA HEALY. ART: RAÚL MARTÍIN. SOURCES: ANTHONY D. BARNOSKY,UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY; AARON CAMENS, UNIVERSITY OF ADELAIDE; ARAPATAHAKIWAI, MUSEUM OF NEW ZEALAND; RICHARD N. HOLDAWAY, PALAECOL RESEARCH LTD; JOHN A.LONG, NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY; DENNIS STANFORD AND HANS-DIETERSUES, NATIONAL MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY; ROD T. WELLS, FLINDERS UNIVERSITY



MOREDISAPPEARING MEGAFAUNA

Australia

Extinction of a majority ofmegafauna genera appearsto coincide with humansettlement over a ,yearperiod. Contributing factors

included hunting and changesin vegetation caused by fireand a falling populationof giant herbivores.

North and South America

North America once harbored an array of large mammal species rivaling Africa’s.Within a few millennia of amajor influx of hunters fromSiberia about 13, yearsago, most megafauna in Northand South America were gone.

New Zealand

A century or so after thearrival of Polynesians, whobecame the Maori, huntingand land clearing eliminatedgiant birds, most notably thewingless moa and its mainpredator, Haast’s eagle, theworld’s largest known eagle.



7, YEARS AGO Y.A. 6, , 4,

Humans arrive about 50,000 years ago.

7, YEARS AGO 6, , 4,

Toxodon platensis 13,000 y.a.

Macrauchenia patachonic

Megatherium americanum 7,900 y.a.

Dinornis robustus

Hieraae

Cnemiornis calcitrans 660 y.a.

Nothrotheriops shastensis 13,000 y.a.

Smilodon fatalis 13,000 y.a.

Arctodus simus 12,800 y.a.

Mammuthus pr

Varanus priscus 45,000 y.a.

Diprotodon optatum 45,000 y.a.

Genyornis newtoni 45,000 y.a.

Thylacoleo carnif ex 45,000 y

Procoptodon gol

Palorchestes azael 45,

Approximate extinction dates*

Australia

North America

South America

New Zealand



TODAY

Humans arrive between30,000 and 13,000 years ago.

Humans first settleabout 700 years ago.

3, ,

The striped Tasmanian tiger, a dogsize marsupial, survived until theearly th century on Tasmania.

* DATES INDICATE THE LAST TIME THE ANIMALS WERE ABUNDANT.EXTINCTION LIKELY FOLLOWED SOON AFTER.

** ISOLATED ISLAND POPULATION EXTINCTION 3,9 YEARS AGO

1,

TODAY3, , 1,

13,500 y.a.

60 to 560 y.a.

tus moorei 720 to 590 y.a.

migenius 10,500 y.a.**

a.

iah 45,000 y.a.

Thylacinus cenocephalus 74 y.a.

00 y.a.



Imagine an Aboriginal hunting party4, years ago crouched underan outcrop on the southern coastof Kangaroo Island. The semiaridscrubland they saw, similar to today’slandscape, harbored megafaunathe humans targeted for food.



The massive jaws and teeth ofthis predator, Thylacoleo carnifex, look lethal on a cast skeleton atAdelaide’s South Australian Museum.



Possibly the first direct evidence ofhumanmegafauna interaction, rockart along the Drysdale River appearsto show a hunter fending off a largepredator, likely Thyloacoleo carnifex.



On a drying lake bed in Victoria, afarmer in 7 alerted scientists toa major find: wellpreserved tracksof a Diprotodon. The slowmovingbehemoth had been crossing avolcanic plain 1, years ago,when megafauna still walked tall.



JaneFifty Years at GombeIn 196 a spirited animal lover with no scientifictraining set up camp in Tanganyika’s Gombe

Stream Game Reserve to observe chimpanzees.Today Jane Goodall’s name is synonymous withthe protection of a beloved species. At Gombe—one of the longest, most detailed studies of anywild animal—revelations about chimps keep coming.

MARTIN SCHOELLER144



HUGO VAN LAWICK L O A



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Who’s watching whom? Jane trades gazes with Fifi, one of heroriginal study subjects. The wooden fence kept chimps fromcharging into camp and scattering provisions. Years later Fificlimbed to top matriarch, with seven of nine offspring surviving—the most of any female. She and her youngest disappeared in4, “a really sad time,” Jane says.

BY DAVID QUAMMEN

Contributing writer David Quammen’s book on zoonotic diseaseswill be published next year by W. W. Norton.

(ouch x button to read more.)

I N G



Jane’s entry in a 1961 feld notebook



COURTESY JANE GOODALL



Kahama

Kalande

Kaseke

M

Mtanga

Kazinga

Lake

Tanganyikaelev. 2,536 ft

773 m

An area of 13. square miles

seemed enough in 196, when

Gombe was named a national

park. But studies have since

shown that this primate popula

tion—about a hundred chimps—

will need a larger foraging area

to thrive in the long term. As

farms and oil palm plantations

have closed in on the park,

chimp home ranges outside haveshrunk, likely intensifying territo

rial conflicts. Disease has added

to the toll. The Jane Goodall

Institute is now promoting liveli

hoods that both benefit villagers

and restore chimp habitat.

A Haven

for ChimpsBy 1977 the Kasekelacommunity had killedor absorbed chimpsof the Kahama group.Their conflict is called

the Four Year War.

GOMBE

NATIONAL

PARK

TANZANIADEM. REP.

OF THECONGO

(formerly Zaire)

Nairobi

A F R I C A




VILLAGE FOREST RESERVE

(established 2009)

Bitale

Gombe StreamResearch Center

Mtanga

Kazinga

Bubango

Chankele

Mwamgongo

Mgaraganza

GOMBE

NATIONAL

PARK

Kalande

Kasekela1966

Mitumbamid199s

Lake

Tanganyika

T A N Z A N I A

a

tumba

Rift

Kiganza

Bubango

Chankele

Mwamgongo

Mgaraganza

Milundi

Mountain

5,315 ft

1,620 m

GOMBE

NATIONAL

PARK

T A N Z A N I A

1970s 2000s

MAPS: MARTIN GAMACHE, NGM STAFF; INTERNATIONAL MAPPING ASSOCIATESSOURCES: LILIAN PINTEA, JANE GOODALL INSTITUTE; ANNE PUSEY, DUKE UNIVERSITY;

MIKE WILSON AND DEUS CYPRIAN, UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA

The powerful Kasekelacommunity currentpopulation at least6 is the mostintensely studied.

Anecdotal evidencesuggests that a chimpcommunity, calledRift, ranged outside

the park in the 196s.

Though monitoredsince 1999, theKalande chimpshave never been

habituated.

Mitumba and Kalande ranges in the 197s are estimates;

ranges outside the park are speculative.

Community range*; year habituated Deforestation since 1971966

0 mi 1

0 k m 1



19701960

1919* 1947 1953 1958

Flodies

1949

1949

Infant Pom Prof Pax

Pa

InfantGenie

Goblin GremlinStillborn

infant Gim

FlintFaben Figan Fifi Flame

Freud Frodo

Passion

Flo

Melissa

Highranking Flo was anattentive, playful mother.She lived an estimated 53

years, one of the longest

lives recorded at Gombe.Gombe’s top matriarch, Fifi has the most offspring:seven of nine surviving.

Gombe’s lar gest chi m

on record, 121pounFrodo has sired themost offspring: eight.

Her sondespon

three

Strong relationships with her children helped

Melissa maintainher social ranking.

Goblin became an alpha male, one of 11 t hKasekela community has had since 1960.

Eaten by PassPom, and Prof.

Passion and her daughter, Pom, killed and ateat least four infants.

A callous and indifferent mother,Passion’s unusual behavior took aviolent turn.

FAMILY TIES

Three matriarchs in the Kasekela community became key

personalities in the study of chimp reproduction, nurturing,

and social behavior. Family lines are traced through the

mothers, since paternity was uncertain before DNA testing.




1980 1990 2000 2010

Pom joins Mitumba community.

Flossi joins Mitumba community.

Melissa dies

P om disappears

Passion dies

Male

Female

AliveDead

Unknown

Alpha male

Furaha

Fundi Familia Fadhila

n Infant

Google

ble & Gyre Groucho

Getty Infant Galahad Gaia Golden & Glitter Gimli Gizmo

Infanttwins

Godot

Stillborninfant

Fanni Flossi Faustino Ferdinand Fred

Fudge

Flirt

Fax

FalidiFlower FansiForest

p

Has attempted infanticide.

Flint,dent, dies

eeks later.

Fifi, last of theoriginal chimpsin the study,disappearswith her daugh

ter Furaha.

e

on,

Fanni and her mother,Fifi, try to kill infant Gaia,but Gremlin protects her.

Gremlin steals her newborn grandson Godot, possi

bly to protect himfrom Fanni, but hedies months later.

Only set of Gombe twinsto survive to adulthood.

GRAPHIC: LAWSON PARKER, NGM STAFFGRAPHIC SOURCE: JOANN C. SCHUMACHER-STANKEY. PHOTOS: COURTESY JANE GOODALL INSTITUTE



March 21, 1963

From: LOUIS LEAKEY

Correspondence to National Geographic executive Melvin Payne

In a memo, Leakey—

Jane’s mentor—credited her with adiscovery that helpedredefine what it meansto be human: Chimpsmake tools. Threeyears earlier Jane hadobserved chimps fish

ing for termites withplant stems. This chimp,photographed in ,displays humanlikeconcentration as hesnags a termite snack.

INGO ARNDT, MINDEN PICTURES(RIGHT); NATIONAL GEOGRAPHICARCHIVES & SPECIAL COLLECTIONS



“ You cannot share your life with any animaland not realize that animals have personal



Bananas gave Jane anedge. A steady supply

lured chimps and enabled her to gain theirtrust. David Greybeardleft, who once ateabout bananas in asitting, was the firstGombe chimp to losehis fear of human contact. When he let Janegroom him, it was, shewrote, “a proud moment.” It is now knownthat chimps lack immunity to some humandiseases, so Gomberesearchers must keepat least feet away.

with a welldeveloped brainities.” —Jane Goodall

HUGO VAN LAWICK



GOMBE SCRAPBOOK

For the past years, Gombehas had two families—thechimps who live in the parkand the scores of researcherswho’ve watched them. Ledby Jane, they’ve camped outfor months, crouched in the

woods, and spent countlesshours observing our closestkin. Tanzanian helpersbecame trackers and datacollectors in the 197s; nowthey are largely in charge.“It’s a really vibrant place forresearch,” Jane says. Withtoday’s mapping and DNAtechnologies, “the capabilitiesare vaster than anythingI could have imagined asI sat with my notebookand slide rule.”

1962: David Greybeard earns a banana

CHIMPANZEES HUNTMAMMALS AS FOOD

Published in 1963

Jane’s first key findingended the longheldassumption that chimpswere vegetarians. Meatis relished and shared.

CHIMPANZEES MAKE AND USE TOOLS

Published in 1963

Young chimps learn bywatching others probetermite mounds with plantstems, for instance, oruse leaves as sponges.

HIGHLIGHTSOF 50 YEARSOF GOMBE

RESEARCH



1962: Jane and partner show the flag

CHIMPANZEES HAVERICH SOCIAL LIVES ANDFAMILY TIES

Published in 1965

Complex social interactionsamong chimps includerobust maternal bondsthat last into adulthood.

FEMALE CHIMPANZEESSEEK MULTIPLE MATES

Published in 1971

Females often mate withall males in a community.Some males try to monopolize a female or take heraway on a consortship. HUGO VAN LAWICK (BOTH)

MORE



1970: Lori Baldwin retrieves a pen from Atlas

1970: Chimps peer in a mirror

1971: Staff document chimps with prey1971: Anne

FEMALECHIMP ANZEESCOMMIT INFANTICIDE

Published in 1977

Competition amongfemales for goodfeeding areas mayinclude the killing ofother females’ infants.

CHIMPANZEES AGGRESSIVELYCOMPETE FOR LAND

Published in 1979

Neighboring chimpanzee communities livein a permanent stateof hostility; battlescan be deadly.



Shouldice ducks Mustard

1973: News of a grant moves Jane and colleagues to dance

1974: Juma Mkukwe and YassiniSelemani with Figan

CHIMPANZEES MATURESLOWLY AND REMAINFERTILE LATE IN LIFE

Published in 1979

Many aspects of chimpaging mirror those ofhumans, but femalechimps do not experience menopause.

MALE CHIMPANZEESSTAY IN NATAL GROUP;FEMALES LEAVE

Published in 1979

Males stay in and defendtheir birth community forlife. Females often join anew group before breeding.Transfer reduces inbreeding.

CLOCKWISE: COURTESYDAVID BYGOTT (3); EMILIEVAN ZINNICQ BERGMANN-RISS; CAROLINE VANZINNICQ BERGMANN;COURTESY DAVID BYGOTT

MORE



1995: Jane with researcher Hilali Matama

2003: Watching Gremlin and family

2006: Scanning habitat edge

FEMALE CHIMPANZEESHAVE THEIR OWNHIERARCHIES

Published in 1997

Males dominate, butfemale rank matters: Highrank is associated withimproved infant survival,shorter birth intervals, andfaster maturing daughters.

CHIMPANZEES GETINFECTED BY A SIMIANFORM OF AIDS

Published in 2009

Chimpanzees are naturalhosts for the precursorto HIV1. Some developAIDSlike symptomsand die early.



2010: Jane with Gombe staff

2008: Methodi Vyampi observes Zeus

CLOCKWISE: MICHAEL NICHOLS, NGM STAFF; ELIZABETH LONSDORF, LINCOLN PARK ZOO;COURTESY MICHAEL L. WILSON; ROBERT O’MALLEY ()



Since 1986 Jane has lived as an advocate,to improve the plight of chimpanzees both



Back in the forestin 199 for “spiritual

refreshment,” Janeenjoys the companyof Pax, arm raisedfor grooming by hisbrother, Prof. “WhenI’m on my own atGombe now, I caneasily recapture howI felt at 6, when all the

world was new,” shesays. “There’s still aspiritual power there.I can breathe it in.”

driven by a sense of missioncaptive and wild.

MICHAEL NICHOLS, NGM STAFF



LONE RIDER, TEXAS, 1974

If there is an image of mine that captures thewideopen West that has so enraptured me, it isthis one of a West Texas cowboy at full gallop.




“DO YOU EVER FEEL LIK

A RETROSPECTIVE LOOK William Albert Allard is a 46yearlong contributor.

National Geographic Books will publish William Albert Allard: Five Decades, in midOctober. A companionexhibition will open December at Steven KasherGallery in New York City.

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T. J. SYMONDS, NEVADA, 1979



T. J. was 17 when I met him in a cow camp. He hadn’t been doing too well atschool and couldn’t stay out of trouble, so his dad sent him to the IL Ranchin Nevada to be a buckaroo. Here he’s got two slabs of campmade breadslathered with peanut butter and pancake syrup.



HENRY GRAY, ARIZONA, 1970



Henry ran cattle for years on the Organ Pipe Cactus National Monumentdesert country. He was 7. The government wanted his cattle off the land.As we moved about the house, Henry paused, lost in his thoughts, behindhim a 4star flag.



SURPRISE CREEK COLONY, MONTANA, 2005



Suspended momentarily under a vast gray sky, these children of mylifelong Hutterite friends find joy in simple pleasures. On this communalranch the older children play ball on a makeshift field, the fencelessoutfield stretching out forever.



CLOUD 9 BAR, NEVADA, 1979



I’ve always liked bars. The glowing, jellycolored lights and dreamlike namereflected at night beckoned me in Elko, a favorite cow town of mine.



STAN KENDALL, NEVADA, 1979



In Mountain City, a buckaroo had that leaving look and didso the next morning.



KATHY WALTER, MONTANA, 1969 (ABOVE); BRIAN MORRIS, NEVADA, 1970 (RIGHT)

One day at Spring Creek Colony, a young Hutterite girl allowed me tophotograph as she braided her hair in a golden painterly light. BrianMorris and crew from the Circle A Ranch had just come in from a rainscoured cattle drive when I made a portrait in a Paradise Valley bar.



STEPHANIE STAHL, MONTANA, 2005



The look on 14yearold Stephanie Stahl’s face during a baseball gameat Surprise Creek has always intrigued me. What was on her mind? I tookthe picture a few years after one of her sisters ran away from the colonybecause she “wanted to be different.”



PHOTO: LUIS LAMAR

Wes Skiles prepares for afilm shoot in the Bahamas.

I N M E M O R I A M

Wes C. Skiles Longtime National Geographic

contributor Wes Skiles passed away on July 1 while

diving off the Florida coast. He was . A husband,

father, and inspiration to many, Skiles was an

accomplished underwater explorer, photographer,

and filmmaker. Born in Jacksonville, Florida, Skiles

had mapped miles of passages in underground

springs by young adulthood. He skipped college

to pursue his passion for the underwater universe

and his dream of protecting it. “Wes had dedication,

drive, and boyish enthusiasm,” says Geographic

Senior Photo Editor Sadie Quarrier. Assignments

took him from Antarctica to Mexico and—mostrecently—to the Caribbean, where he photographed

“Bahamas Blue Holes,” our August cover story.

“Floating over nearly bottomless voids raises the

hairs on your neck more than the tight places,” he

observed. Skiles’s love for his work was unrelenting,

remembers friend and colleague Jill Heinerth: “Weschased his imagination around the world.”

I N S I D E G E O G R A P H I C




I N S I D E G E O G R A P H I C

G L O B A L A C T I O N A T L A S

The new National Geographic Global Action Atlas

website features hundreds of causerelated projects

around the world—and ways to get involved. These

efforts, including several specifically focused on the

Gulf oil spill, are all working toward goals of reducinghuman suffering and preserving wildlife and ecosys

tems. Go to actionatlas.org/oilspill to explore, support,

volunteer, and donate.

N AT G E O C H A N N E LThis November the National Geographic Channel

proudly debuts Great Migrations, an unprecedented,

sevenpart, global programming event.

N G B O O K SWith its stunning marine life photography, engaging

text, and fun trivia, Citizens of the Sea will entice

readers of all ages. Find it in stores September 14 $6.

Society Updates




PHOTO: WIDE WORLD PHOTOS/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC STOCK

F L A S H B A C K

Boing “Some kangaroos can cover 3feet in a single bound, and may outstrip

a horse for a short distance,” notes the

caption to this photo in the December

1936 Geographic story “Beyond Australia’s

Cities.” While driving across a sheep

station, writer W. Robert Moore foundhimself in a race: “Propelling themselves

with only their powerful hind legs, with

their tiny undeveloped front legs held

high, their running seems uncanny. But

as our speedometer touched 4 miles

an hour, one old kangaroo kept pacebeside the car.” —Margaret G. Zackowitz




ACROSS

1 Wellness resort4 Flat dweller

10 Goya subject, nakedand clothed

14 Panama, e.g.15 Camden Yards ballplayer 16 Track shape17 Before now

18 Physiciansourced

nutritional supplement? 20 Like some fish populations

22 With uniformity

23 Righteous Babe Records

creator DiFranco 24 French Polynesia components 25 It’s among a cannibal’s family

recipes, literally?

7 8 9 1110 12 134 5 6

20

28

31 32

21 22

242323

37

22

33 34

25 26 27 28 29 30

36

41 4342

44 4547 50

5755

1514

9

16

191817

1 2 3 4

35

39 40

36

38

54

57 58

61

62

6560

49 50 51 52 5346 47 48

48 49 51

56

59

62

G E O P U Z Z L E




7 Betrayed a secret

8 Collegian in the Whiffenpoofs 9 Merrymakers

10 To a greater extent 11 The Bard’s river

12 Big house

13 One on your side 19 Each’s partner

21 Some have gutters 24 The Mossad’s country

25 Letting go

26 Of a forearm bone 27 Bowled over

28 Flavorful 29 Find out

30 Icicle sites, often 31 Cameroon’s cont. 34 Word with snapper or herring

36 Dangling ceilingfan part 37 Leviathan

39 Wintry weather woe

40 Stockpiles

42 Loom 43 Burton’s Becket costar 46 For the heck __

47 Muse count

48 Berry of the blackthorn 49 Bottom bit of the seafood chain

50 Pikes, e.g.

51 Back muscles, briefly 52 Furry Jedi friend

53 Tractortrailer combo 55 Slangy ending for two or go

31 Shafts between wheels

32 Get hitched 33 Ring bearer? 35 Bass parts36 Hemingway and Haydn,

nicknamewise

37 Contributed

38 Genetic messenger

39 Wong of book and film titles 40 Ran on TV 41 Willy’s Death of a Salesman

kin given the third degree? 44 Canasta objective

45 Saving Fish From Drowning

author Amy

46 How freelancers may work 49 Peter and Paul, but not Mary 54 Steak shared by a couple with

the same summer sign? 56 Bowl over

57 Privy to58 Entertain abundantly

59 Male that mews 60 __ off offended 61 Male mallards

62 Emulate Bode and Lindsey

DOWN 1 Its roe are a delicacy

2 Summons with a beeper 3 Straddling 4 Gophers’ group

5 Like the Kama Sutra

6 “Well played!”

D I N G



N E X T M O N T H

national geographic 2010-10

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