natural dyes procedure
TRANSCRIPT
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Natural Dyeing ofNatural Dyeing ofIndigenous FibersIndigenous FibersAbacaAbaca
((Musa Textiles )Musa Textiles )
Department of Science and Technology
PHILIPPINE TEXTILE RESEARCHPHILIPPINE TEXTILE RESEARCHINSTITUTEINSTITUTE
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Conduct applied research and development for the
textile industry sector;
Undertake the transfer of completed researches toend-users or via linkage units of other governmentagencies;
Undertake technical services and provide trainingprograms.
MANDATE
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1 s t P a r t S c o u r i n g / B l e a c h i n g
2 n d P a r t S y n t h e t i c D y e i n g
3 r d P a r t N a t u r a l D y e i n g
TRAINING ACTIVITIES
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1 . W e i g hf i b e r s
2 . C o m p u t ef o rt h ev o l u m eo fw a t e r u s i n gl i q u o r r a t i o( L R )1 : 5 0
3 . C o m p u t ea n dw e i g hc h e m i c a l sn e e d e d:
H y d r o g e np e r o x i d e ,5 0% - 9 g / L
S o d i u ms i l i c a t e- 2 g / LS o d aa s h- 2 g / LD e t e r g e n t- 0 . 5 g / L
4 . B o i lt h ec o m p u t e dv o l u m eo fw a t e r
5 . A d ds o d aa s h ,s o d i u ms i l i c a t e ,d e t e r g e n ta n d
f i b e r / m a t e r i a l.6 . A d dt h ef i b e r sa n dh y d r o g e np e r o x i d ew h e nt h es o l u t i o
b o i l s.
7 . B o i lf o r3 0- 4 5m i n u t e s.
8 . D r a i n ,w a s ha n dp r e p a r en e u t r a l i z a t i o n.
HOW TO DO SCOURING/BLEACHING
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1 . M e a s u r et h es a m ea m o u n to fw a t e r u s i n gl i q u o r
r a t i o( L R )1 : 5 0, 1 : 2 0o r 1 : 3 0.
2 . A d d2 m l / Lg l a c i a la c e t i ca c i da n dm i xt h o r o u g h
t h e na d ds c o u r e d / b l e a c h e dm a t e r i a l.
3 . S o a kf o r2 0m i n u t e sa tr o o mt e m p e r a t u r e.
4 . D r a i nt h es o l u t i o n ,w a s ha n dd r yt h em a t e r i a l.
NEUTRALIZATION
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W e i g h t o f m a t e r i a l= 5 k i l o g r a m s
L i q u o r r a t i o ( L R ) = 1 : 2 0 ( l i t e r s- k i l o g r a m s )
V o l u m e o f w a t e r = w t o f m a t e r i a l s x
= 5 k g x 2 0 L / k g
= 1 0 0 l i t e r s
W e i g h t o f h y d r o g e n p e r o x i d e= 9 g / L i t e r x 1 0 0 L i t
= 9 0 0 g r a m s
W e i g h t o f s o d a a s h= 2 g r a m s / L i t e r x 1 0
= 2 0 0 g r a m s
W e i g h t o f s o d i u m s i l i c a t e= 2 g r a m s / L i t e r x 1 0
= 2 0 0 g r a m sW e i g h t o f n o n- i o n i c = 0 . 5 g r a m s / L i t e r x
= 5 0 g r a m s
V o l u m e o f a c e t i c a c i d= 2 m l / L x 1 0 0 l i t e r s
= 2 0 0 m l
Sample Calculation for (Scouring/Bleaching)
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W a t e r L R 1 : 5 0 R i n s e 3
S o d i u m S i l i c a t e , S o d a
A s h , N o n- i o n i c D e t e r g e n tI n d i g e n o u s F i b e r sA t b o i l f o r 3 0- 4 5
m i n , H y d r o g e nP e r o x i d e , 5 0 %
FLOW PROCESS
2 m L/ L g l a c i a l a c e t i c a c i db l e a c h e d f i b e r s
2 0 m i n a t r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e
R i n s e ,
NEUTRALIZATION
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T o i m p a r t a t t r a c t i v e h u e o
T o e n h a n c e t h e a e s t h e t i c
T o i n c r e a s e t h e v a l u e o r c
T o c o p e u p w i t h t h e g r o w i
T o s u r v i v ei n t h eg r o w i n gc o m p e t i t i o ni n t h eg l o b a lm a r k e t.
Purpose of Dyeing
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- D y e i n gi s t h ep r o c e s so fi m p a r t i n gc o l o r o nt h ef i b e r s.
S c o u r e d / BI n d i g e n o u s
D y e i n g( w i t hb l u e d y e)
D y e dF i b e r s
What is Dyeing?
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W e i g h f i b e r s / m a t e r i a l
C o m p u t e v o l u m e o f w a t e r u s i n g t h1 : 2 0 , 1 : 3 0 o r 1 : 5 0 .
C o m p u t e a n d m e a s u r e t h e a m o u n t
R e c i p e :
B a s i c d y e- x % ( w e i g h t o f f i b e r / m aw i t h e q u a l a m o u n t o f 4 0 % a
G l a u b e r ss a l t ( S o d i u m S u l f a t e )- 1 0 g / LG l a c i a l A c e t i c A c i d 2 m l / L
How to do Basic Dyeing?
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M e a s u r e a m o u n t o f w a t e r n e e d e d .
A d dg l a c i a la c e t i ca c i d. S o a km a t e r i a li n t h es o l u t i o nf o r1 0m i n u t e s
A d d p r e- d i s s o l v e d d y e . S t i r .
B r i n g t h e s o l u t i o n t o b o i l .
A d dp r e- d i s s o l v e dg l a u b e r so r c o m m o ns a l t. M a i n t a i nt h eb o i l i n gt e m p e r a t u r ef o r3 0- 4 5m i n u t e s.
D r a i n , w a s h , r i n s e u n t i l w a t e r i s c l e
N o t e: T o h a v ea l e v e ld y e i n go r t o a v o i du n e v e nd y e i n g ,t a k eo u tt h em a t e r i a li n e v e r ya d d i t i o no fd y e so rc h e m i c a l
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W e i g h t o f m a t e r i a l= 5 k i l o g r a m s
L i q u o r r a t i o ( L R ) = 1 : 2 0 ( k i l o g r a m s- l i t e r )
V o l u m e o f w a t e r = w t o f m a t e r i a l s x
= 5 k g x 2 0 k g / L
= 1 0 0 l i t e r s
W e i g h t o f g l a u b e r ss a l t = 1 0 g / L i t e r x 1 0 0
= 1 0 0 0 g r a m s
W e i g h t o f g l a c i a l a c e t i c a c i d= 2 m l / / L i t e r x 1 0 0
= 2 0 0 m lW e i g h t o f d y e ( 2 . 5 % )= 2 . 5 % / 1 0 0 x 5 0 0 0
= 1 2 5 g r a m s
W e i g h t o f 4 0 % a c e t i c a c i d= 1 2 5 g r a m s
Sample Calculation for Production(Basic Dyeing)
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W a t e r ( L R 1 : 5 0 )g l a c i a l a c e t i c a c i d
t o p H 4- 5i n d i g e n o u s f i b e r s
R i n s e
3 0- 4 5 m i n a t b o i l
1 0 m i n
d y e s t u f f
G l a u b e r s s a l t
Flow Process for Basic Dyeing
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C o l o r m a t c h i n gi s t h es y s t e mw h e r e i ny o uc a n
f o r m u l a t es h a d e / sb y u s i n gs m a l lq u a n t i t i e so f
s a m p l e / sb y u s i n gt h et r i a la n de r r o r m e t h o di n
o b t a i n i n gt h ed e s i r e ds h a d e / s.
What is Color matching?
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T ov i s u a l i z ec o l o r s h a d e sh e r ea r es o m ec o l o r c o m b i n a t i o n st o c o n s i:
F r o m P r i m a r y C o l o r s
+
+
+
r e d
r e d
b l u e
b l u e
y e l l o w
y e l l o w
v i o l e t
o r a n g e
g r e e n
T o S e c o n d a
N o t e t h a t i n t h i s p a r t i c u l a r c o l o r c o m b i n a t i o n sN O S p e c i f i c P e r c e n t a go f e a c h c o.
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1 . P r e p a r es t o c ks o l u t i o n so fd y e s t u f f st o b e u s e df o rC o l o
m a t c h i n g( e x a m p l e: 1 % s t o c ks o l u t i o nm e a n s: 1 g r a mo f
d y e s t u f f t o b ed i s s o l v ei n 1 0 0m lw a t e r ).
2 . P r e p a r es e v e r a ls a m p l e sf o rc o l o r m a t c h i n gf r o mt h em a t e r
t o b eu s e di n d y e i n go rp r o d u c t i o n.
3 . C o m p u t ef o rt h ea u x i l i a r i e sa n dd y e s t u f f si n a c c o r d at o
f o r m u l ag i v e nf o re a c hc o l o r o ft h ed e s i r e ds h a d e.
4 . C o m p u t ev o l u m eo fw a t e r s i n gl i q u o r r a t i o( L R )1 : 1 0 0.
5 . M e a s u r ev o l u m eo fc o m p u t e dd y e s t u f f sf r o mt h es t o c ks o l u t
u s i n gp i p e t t e s.
Procedures on Color matching
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6 . A d dv o l u m eo fm e a s u r e dd y e s t u f f sa n ds u b t r a c ti t f r o mt h e
c o m p u t e dv o l u m eo fw a t e r .
7 . P r o c e e dt o d y e i n gp r o c e s s.
A f t e r d r y i n g ,c o m p a r er e s u l t sw i t hs w a t c h.
9 .R e p e a tt r i a l so fa d j u s t m e n to fo n ed y e s t u f f a f t e r t h eo t h e r u n t
s u c ht i m er e s u l tw i l lb et h es a m ew i t ht h ed e s i r e ds h a d e.
1 0 .F i n a lr e c i p em u s tb ef i l l e df o rr e f e r e n c e s.
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Sample Calculation for Color matching
Example : Apple Green
Use : Stock solution 1.0% each dyes
Weight of sample 10 grams
Liquor ratio 1:100
Recipe : Astrazon Blue A-BG 0.10%
Astrazon Yellow A-8GL 0.50%
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Computations : Blue 0.10%/100% x wt. Sample x stock solutiontherefore 0.001 x 10 gms x 100 ml water/1 gm
blue dye
= 1 ml
Yellow 0.50%/100% x 10 gms x 100 ml water/
1 gm yellow dye
= 5 ml
Total Dyestuffs : 6 ml
Volume : 100 ml 6 ml
= 94 ml (actual volume of water)
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NATURAL DYEING(3 Steps)
How to Do the Extraction?
1. Chopped or grind the dye source (ex. Dulaw).
2. Weigh.
3. Compute and measure the volume of water usingliquor ratio 1:30.
1. Boil the chopped/grind dye source in the water.
2. Filter and set aside.
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How to Do Natural Dyeing?
1. Soak the mordanted material in the dye extract.
2. Boil the material in the dye extract for 15 minutes or longer
depending on the dye source.
3. Drain, wash and dry.
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B o t a n i c a l N a m e S c i e n t i f i c N a m e P a r t s U s e d C o l o r i t I m p a r t s
A c h u e t e B i x a o r e l l a n aL . s e e d s l i g h t o r a n g e ,
y e l l o w o r a n g e
B u l u b u l u E v o d i a b i n t o k o
B l a n c o
l e a v e s g r a y , b r o w n ,
y e l l o w i s h b r o w n
D u h a t S y z i g i u m c u m i n i
L . S k e e l s
b a r k b r o w n
H a w i l iF i c u s s e p t i c a
u r m . F . v a r .
s e p t i c a
l e a v e s b l a c k ,g r a y
I n d i g oI n d i g o f e r a
t i n c t o r i a l l e a v e s b l u e
K a m a c h i l l eP i t h c e l l o b i u m
d u l c e( R o x b ) b a r k b r o w n
K a p o k C e i b a
p e n t a n d r a L .
G a e r t n .
b a r k p i n k t o p i n k i s h
b r o w n
L u a m T e c t o n ag r a n d i sL . l e a v e sL i g h t b r o w n ,v i o l e t
L u y a n gD i l a wC u r c u m al o n g g a
L i n n. r h i z o m e s y e l l o w
S i b u k a o / S a p a nC a s e s a l p i n i a
s a p p a nL . w o o dp u r p l e / v i o l e t ,
m a r o o n , p i n k ,
p e a c h
T a l i s a yT e r m i n a l i a
c a t a p p aL .l e a v e s b l a c k ,g r a y
LISTS OF SOME IDENTIFIED DYE SOURCES
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