Natural emulsifier with textureand skin care benefitswww.floratech.com

pp6 Floratech REPRINT Sep18.qxp_Layout 1 28/09/2018 11:19 Page 1

1 EMULSIFIERS

PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA Reprinted from October 2018

Natural emulsifier with textureand skin care benefitsn Tiffany Quinn, MS – Floratech, US

Emulsun® [INCI: Hydrogenated SunflowerSeed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and)Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil GlycerylEsters (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) SodiumStearoyl Lactylate] is a sunflower-derived o/wemulsifier, in particle form, that can be utilizedin skin and hair care applications. Thisversatile, natural emulsifier helps createstable, aesthetically pleasing emulsions.

Emulsun (now referred to as ‘thesunflower-derived emulsifier’) comes in easyto handle spherical particles. The free flowingparticles improve dosing precision frombench-top formulations to large scaleproduction lines. This unique particle formalso offers an increased surface areacompared to flakes or pellets, allowing thesunflower-derived emulsifier to be efficientlymelted and blended. This characteristicimproves throughput, lowers heatingrequirements, and results in a greenerproduction process.

The sunflower-derived emulsifier iscompatible with natural and synthetic oils,esters, silicones, ethanol, sunscreens, andthickeners. The sunflower-derived emulsifier is

composed of monoesters of sunflower oil,which contain high amounts of stearic andpalmitic acid. The sunflower oil used to createit undergoes an innovative refining process topreserve the sunflower wax-ester and fattyalcohol components. Sunflower wax-estershave a unique botanical composition withcarbon lengths C38-C50. The associated fattyalcohols are equally unique and range fromC16-C30 in chain length. These help increaseformulation stability and contribute to skinand hair emolliency.

Other formulation benefits of the sunflower-derived emulsifier include: PEG-free, HLBindependent, non-ionic, preservative-free,biodegradable, and low cost.

Liquid crystal structureThe sunflower-derived monoglycerides andpolyglyceride esters form a synergeticcrystalline structure that can createmicroemulsions without shear mixing. Thespecific combination of the hydrophilic andhydrophobic structures in the sunflower-derived emulsifier generates a self-aggregating hexagonal liquid crystal phase

with oil in water formulations that can bewitnessed during cooling.

These tightly packed liquid crystalaggregates decrease surface tension andstrongly promote emulsification.

Clinical study In double-blind, vehicle-controlled,randomized clinical studies, the sunflower-derived emulsifier produced the followingbenefits:l Increased skin hydration up to 1.2 times

more than other emulsifiers (Fig 1)l Reduced TEWL up to 6.4 times more

than other emulsifiers (Fig 2)l Allowed for a variety of product aesthetics

by changing the loading level (Fig 3)l Allowed for the inclusion of sunscreen

actives with minimal effect on productaesthetics (Fig 4)

Study objectiveThe purpose of this investigation was toevaluate the sunflower-derived emulsifier inan o/w emulsion compared to otheremulsifiers for its ability to increase skin

Figure 1: The inclusion of 6% Emulsun increased skin hydration up to 1.2times more than other emulsifiers.

Figure 2: The inclusion of 6% Emulsun decreased TEWL up to 6.4 timesmore than other emulsifiers.

n 6% Emulsun®

n 6% Cetearyl Alcohol/ Ceteareth-20n 6% Cetearyl Olivate/Sorbitan Olivaten 6% Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice BranPolyglyceryl-3 Esters/Glyceryl Stearate/Cetearyl Alcohol/ Sodium Stearoyl Lactylaten 6% Glyceryl Stearate/ PEG-100Stearate/Cetearyl Alcohol

Perc

ent C

hang

e Sk

in H

ydra

tion

from

Bas

elin

e

60%

50%

40%

30%

20%

10%

0%

Perc

ent D

ecre

ase

in T

EWL

from

Bas

elin

e

20%

15%

10%

5%

0%2 hours 4 hours 6 hours

n 6% Emulsun n 6% Cetearyl Alcohol/ Ceteareth-20n 6% Cetearyl Olivate/Sorbitan Olivaten 6% Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice BranPolyglyceryl-3 Esters/Glyceryl Stearate/Cetearyl Alcohol/ Sodium Stearoyl Lactylaten 6% Glyceryl Stearate/ PEG-100Stearate/Cetearyl Alcohol

4 hours

pp47-49 Floratech PCNA Oct18.qxp_Layout 1 28/09/2018 11:16 Page 1

EMULSIFIERS 2

Reprinted from October 2018 PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA

hydration, reduce TEWL, and provide avariety of product aesthetics.

Increased skin hydration and reduced TEWLSkin hydration measurements using aCorneometer and TEWL measurements usinga Tewameter were taken before and after asingle test article application. Emulsifiers werecompared within an o/w emulsion with 20%oil for skin hydration and TEWL (n=18). Theresults are shown in Figures 1 and 2. Thelotion containing 6% of the sunflower-derivedemulsifier increased skin hydration up to 1.2times more and decreased TEWL up to 6.4times more than the other emulsifiers.

Consumer perceptionThe sunflower-derived emulsifier wasevaluated by female consumers (n=24-26) ona 1-5 scale for initial product observationsand skin feel immediately after application.The higher the score, the more the listedattribute was perceived by consumers (e.g. ascore of 5 for moisturization indicatesmoisturized skin, whereas a score of 1indicates dry skin). For the texture attribute, ahigher score indicates a thicker product. Theresults appear in Figures 3 and 4 and showthat the sunflower-derived emulsifier enabled

the creation of a medium texture lotion to aheavy cream without affecting the stickiness,greasiness, or transparency (i.e no soaping orwhite residue) of the product. It was alsopossible to introduce organic UV filters intothe formulation without noticeably impactingthe sensory profile.

Formulations study The texture (e.g. thickness, silkiness, slip,and spread) of a formulation can beadjusted in numerous ways. The sunflower-derived emulsifier was evaluated with avariety of emollients, different loading

levels, and with and without the use ofthickeners to demonstrate the versatility ofcompatibilities and achievable textures.l The sunflower-derived emulsifier is

compatible with a diverse assortment ofemollients which produce differenttextures in the finished formulation (Fig 5)

l The viscosity of a formulation can betailored by adjusting the loading of thesunflower-derived emulsifier (Fig 6)

l The texture of a formulation containingthe sunflower-derived emulsifier can bealtered with a wide selection ofthickeners (Fig 7).

Figure 3: Emulsun allowed for the creation of a medium texture lotion to aheavy cream without affecting the stickiness or greasiness of the product.

Figure 4: Emulsun allowed for the inclusion of organic sunscreens withoutnoticeably affecting product aesthetics.

Hydration

Greasiness

Stickiness

Transparency*

Texture*

Spreadability*

Wetness*

Softness

Slipperiness

ResidueGreasiness

Silky Smoothness

5

4

3

2

1

5

4

3

2

1

n 3% Emulsun+15% oil (medium texture lotion)n 7% Emulsun+15% Oil (heavy cream)

Emulsun at 3% versus 7%

Emulsun with andwithout sunscreens

n 6% Emulsun+25% Oil (heavy cream)n 6% Emulsun+5% Oil+20% Sunscreen (heavy cream)

Figure 5: Emulsun can be used to create stable formulations with a variety ofemollients with a range of rHLBs from 4-9.

Figure 6: Emulsun is versatile and gives formulators a variety of rheologyoptions for stable formulations.

Figure 7: Although Emulsun does not require a thickener to create a stable formulation like manyother natural emulsifiers, it is compatible with natural and synthetic thickeners.

Dimethicone (350cs)

Dimethicone (20cs)Olive Oil

6% Emulsun20% OilpH= 6.5-7.5

Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideOctyldodecanol

Mineral OilIsononyl Isononanoate

Floramac 10Floraesters® 15

Florasun® 90Floramac® Macadamia Oil

7

6

50 50000 100000 150000 200000

Viscosity (cP)

rHLB

4% 6% 8% 10%

250000

200000

150000

100000

50000

Visc

osity

(cP)

20% OilpH=7

150000

120000

90000

60000

30000

Visc

osity

(cP)

5% 10% 15% 20%Oil Loading Level

5:1 Oil: EmulsunpH=6.5-7.5

A

B

CDEF

* p<0.5 * p<0.05

Emulsun loading level

n A - 0.15% Carbopol® Ultrez 21 Polymern B - 0.15% Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymern C - 0.50% Natrosol®250 HR CSn D - 0.30% Keltrol®CGn E - 0.30% Aristoflex®AVCn F - No Thickener (Emulsun only)

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3 EMULSIFIERS

Formula: Hydrating Silicone-FreeDay Cream with L22 and EmulsunThis lightweight, hydrating facial cream isdelicate enough for daytime wear undermakeup and powerful enough to provide allday moisturization. The sunflower-derivedemulsifier, a versatile naturally-derived PEG-free emulsifier, allows for viscosity andproduct feel customization, while alsoadding skin hydration and barrier functionbenefits. The use of Floramac 10 in thisformulation imparts the skin with radiance,while L22 delivers its patented lipid profile

of a healthy 22 year old. Additionally, theFloratech emollients (Florasun 90,Floraesters 15, and Floraesters 60) providethe moisturization and emolliency benefitsto this excellent formulation.

ConclusionEmulsun is a botanical, low-cost, PEG-freeemulsifier which forms liquid crystalemulsions without shear mixing. It is aversatile sunflower-derived o/w emulsifierdelivered in easy to handle particles.Emulsun offers formulators the flexibility to

achieve target viscosity without the use ofsecondary emulsifiers and is therefore anexcellent choice to create stable,aesthetically pleasing emulsions.

Emulsun performs well in a wide range of skin care applications allowing for effective viscosity modification and theformation of a pleasing texture without awhite residue. Emulsun also contributes to additional benefits, including increasinghydration and decreasing TEWL, all while maintaining excellent sensoryattributes. PC

Formulation

Phase Ingredients INCI %wt/wt

A Deionized Water Water q.s

Glycerine 99.7% USP Kosher Glycerin 1.50

Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan Gum 0.20

B Floramac 10 Ethyl Macadamiate 5.30

Florasun 90 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 3.00

Floraesters 15 Jojoba Esters 1.80

L22Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters (and) Squalene (and) Phytosteryl Macadamiate(and) Phytosterols (and) Tocopherol

3.50

Floraesters 60 Jojoba Esters 1.40

C EmulsunHydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Hydrogenated SunflowerSeed Oil Glyceryl Esters (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

6.50

D Citric Acid, USP (10% Solution) Citric Acid (and) Water q.s

E Fragrance q.s

Preservative q.s

BENEFITSLow Cost

PEG-Free

HLB Independent

Botanically Derived

Easy to Handle Particles

Liquid Crystal Structure

FUNCTIONSImprove Sensory Appeal

Achieve Target Viscosity

Improve Skin Hydration

Formulation Flexibility

Decrease TEWL

www.floratech.com

®

Product Info291 East El Prado Ct.

Chandler, Arizona 85225 USA

480.545.7000

sales@floratech.com

PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA Reprinted from October 2018

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