natural gems - brief information

8/7/2019 Natural Gems - Brief information

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Gemstones Buying Guide

Buying gemstones and gemstone jewelry can be intimidating. This page contains useful information onhow to assess the value of jewelry so that you can be a brilliantly empowered gemstone shopper. Be sureto check out the pages specific to any gemstone you are interested in.

The quality of a gemstone depends on many different characteristics. Four of them can be easilyremembered as the 4 C s: Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat.

Color

This refers to the color of a gemstone. In general, the more vibrant, strong and beautiful the color is, themore valuable the stone. This strength in color is often called Intensity Examples of color intensity:

Another aspect of a stone s color that can effect its value is its rarity. For example, a golden-pink topaz(Imperial Topaz) is more valuable than a blue topaz, all other characteristics being equal. This is becauseit is harder to find topaz of this color.

Too Light Amethyst:

This stone is a verypale, dull unattractive

color. It is therefore,

relatively less valuable.

Better Color Amethyst:

The color here is strongerand more attractive,

though not top color.

Some people like this color

better. It is easy to find.

Best Color Amethyst:

This is the ideal andmost valuable color for

amethyst. It is intense,

dark and beautiful.

Rare Color in Amethyst.

The flashes of red in thisamethyst make it very rare

and valuable. A large

stone of this color will

command top prices.


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ClarityClarity refers to the amount of inclusions or impurities there are in a stone. If you can see through thestone with an unobstructed view of the bottom facets (called the pavilion), it is a clear stone. Inclusionsare usually another mineral that has been trapped inside the crystal as it was forming. Clarity is alsoaffected by internal cracks.Generally speaking, the clearer the stone, the more valuable it is:

Poor Clarity: This stone

is almost opaque. We can

not see into it, nor can we

see any light reflecting or

glowing from the inside

because of the thick

mineral deposits

(inclusions) inside it.

Sapphires of this clarity

are common and less

valuable

Decent Clarity: We can

see into this sapphire

somewhat: depth of

color and light reflecting

from a few facets. The

white cloudy areas still

impede its beauty and

make it less valuable.

Typical Clarity: This

sapphire is not perfectly

clear, but we can catch

light from most of the

bottom facets. This is

representative of what is

widely available in the

market and medium

priced (depending also on

color, cut and size)

As Good as it Gets.

Wow. A very nice

sapphire, which as far as

the eye can tell is very

clear. We see into the

whole stone and catch a

lot of reflected light.

Sapphire like this are

rare and command top

prices.

There are some exceptions however. Certain gemstones such as emeralds are hardly ever perfectly clear, therefore clarity plays a small role in its value. There are even instances where certain inclusions canmake a stone worth more.

Cut

The cut of the stone is also very important. It is more common to see a bad cut than it is to see a goodcut, especially in very precious stones. A good cut is one that is symmetrically and beautifullyproportioned, perfectly polished and makes the most out of the stones natural beauty.There are several different forms in which gemstones can be cut

FacetedThis is the most common method in fine jewelry. Faceting allows for the most sparkle and light reflection. .Simply put, you can tell a good cut (faceted stone) by how well it sparkles. A properly cut stone has itsfacets at particular angles to reflect the most light possible. This is because cutting a stone at the bestreflective angles often means reducing the size and weight of the stone.


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This is cut badly: we can

see through it (fish eye)

and it does not sparkle.

This is cut badly:There is

a dark spot in the middle

where light does not

reflect.

This cut is better.

However some light is

still lost through th

bottom

This is a perfect cut.

See how much more it

sparkles

Only relatively clear stones can be faceted.

Within faceted stones, there are many different cuts. Here are some examples:Princess, round brilliant, cushion, oval, marquis, heart, emerald, barrion, fancyBezel (reflects more surface light)

Example of fancy cuts: lone star, concave, star

A well proportioned gemstone should look more or less like this:

Carat


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When it comes to gemstones, size matters. All else being equal, the bigger the stone, the more valuable it

is. In wholesale gem trading, gems are often priced per carat. It would make sense therefore that the

more carats, the more its worth. However, it doesn t stop there. An additional factor in the value is the

rarity of large stones. This means that the larger the stone, the higher the price per carat. For example, a

1 carat ruby with a nice color and cut might cost $700. But a 5 carat ruby of similar cut and color will not

cost $3500 (5 X $700); it might cost $10,000. This is because it is very rare to find a ruby that is 5 carats.

The effect that size has on price and value is determined by how rare large stones are. For example, very

large pieces of amethyst and topaz are relatively easy to find meaning that the price of large stones is not

exponentially higher.

Well which of these C s is most important Should you choose the most intensely colored stone or the

biggest stone It depends on the kind of stone. Each of the C s have varying degrees of importance

depending on the stone, but all of them play a role to some degree.

Rarity/ Uniqueness

Another factor in a gemstone s value is its uniqueness. This means unusual colors or patterns in the

stone or rare and interesting inclusions or impurities. These things are often appreciated and valued by

custom, fine jewelers, but overlooked by wholesalers. It may be hard to get a really good deal just going

by the 4 C s because everyone who buys and sells gemstones and gemstone jewelry professionally goesby them to assess value. But if you are a careful observer, you may be able to spot something special in

a stone that someone else has missed.

Interesting inclusions: This is a

simple peice of quartz: not at all rare.

However, any observer of this stone

would notice the garden like inclusions

of other minerals and pay a high price

for something so unique and

interesting.

Color Bands: The way color

plays in a stone can make a

material special, unique and

therefore valuable to the right

person, as is the case with this

watermelon tourmaline.

Rutile inclusions: Another

simple peice of quartz, but the

star shaped inclusions of rutile

make it interesting and more

valuable to a fine jeweler or

collector.


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Real or Fake

A very common concern when shopping for gemstones (especially from risky venders such as garagesales) is whether the gemstone jewelry is real.

It turns out that it is not so simple to say a stone is real or fake : there is a continuum regarding thedegree to which humans influence gemstones. Some of them can be spotted if you know what to look for,others need trained gemologists and special equipment. Here is a summary of the different points on thecontinuum between fake and real:

Imitation: This is what can most fairly be called fake . When something is made to look like a gemstonethat is actually a totally different substance that is imitation. For example, imagine you are at a fleamarket and you see a ring with a pretty red stone and the seller tells you it is a ruby. However, when youtake it to get appraised you find out it is glass. You were sold an imitation or a fake. A note about fakes:this scenario sounds disastrous and might make you very afraid to ever buy gemstone jewelry, but thetruth is, it happens rarely. Selling fake jewelry (and claiming it is real) is fraud. Because gemstones aresuch a sensitive product (expensive and mysterious), reputation is everything.Selling one fake stoneeven after 25 years of selling good jewelry can ruin a seller s livelihood by destroying their

reputation forever. Therefore, rest assured that most people who are professional jewelers orgemstone sellers will do everything possible to make sure they don t sell you something fake. Formore information on how to identify imitations of gemstones, read more on the individual gemstonespages.

Synthetic/ Created :Synthetic gemstones are real gemstones in that their mineral composition is exactlythe same as those in nature. The only difference is that they are made by humans in a short amount oftime versus by nature over hundreds of thousands of years. Created stones are always less valuable thannatural stones because they are less rare. Generally, created stones are only available for moreexpensive gemstones such as diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. One example of a widelyaccepted created gemstone is the cultured pearl: very prevalent even in the most elite jewelry.

A reputable seller (anyone with anything to lose) will always state whether the stone is synthetic. But ifyou aren t sure, one way to form an educated guess is to observe the clarity. Man made stones areusually much cleaner and clearer than natural stones. So if you see a bright clear sparkling ruby, sapphireor emerald that isn t extremely expensive, you can bet that it is synthetic.Pick of synthetic emerald and real emerald.

Treated/enhanced:Many gemstones will undergo some kind of treatment between the time they aremined and the time they reach you. These treatments are carried out in order to improve the appearanceof the stone (color or clarity). Treatments include exposure to very high temperatures, irradiation, heat orirradiation combined with another chemical (e.g. titanium), oiling, and waxing. Treated gemstones are notconsidered less valuable as long as the treatment is considered permanent by relevant gemologicalorganizations. That means that the treatment will not wear off with time. In some kinds of gemstones,treatments are so common that it is nearly impossible to find an untreated one. Rubies are an example of

this. Other gemstones could not exist without treatments, e.g. Mystic topaz. Read more about treatmentson the pages of individual gemstones.

Natural:The word natural is usually used to mean that the gemstone came is not man made. It does notnecessarily mean untreated. This word, however, does not have a standardized meaning and is oftenabused. So if you see the word natural in the description of a gemstone you are interested in buying,keep reading or asking questions.


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Genuine: This word usually means that it is not fake . It has no implications of being from the earthnatural or untreated . For example, it is common to see descriptions of jewelry that contain the wordsGenuine created ruby. It just means that it is mineralogically a ruby.

Untreated: When you see this word in a jewelry description, you can know that you re seeing somethingrare (depending on the stone). If you see an untreated ruby for sale, it will be extremely valuable andexpensive. Untreated aquamarine or topaz of intense color is also rare and very special. However, if yousee Untreated amethyst, it s not such a big deal because amethyst is very available untreated. Learnmore about treatments of individual gemstones on the relevant pages of this site.

An Untreated Ruby: Untreated

rubies are almost always very

included (unless they are in

museums or with 6 digit price

tags). Untreated rubies are rare

and valuable

A Typical Treated Ruby: This is

what you usually find in the market

for rubies: Natural, treated, and

with imperfect clarity. Clarity

ranges quite a bit: we realy on the

seller to tell us what about

treatments.

A Synthetic Ruby. This ruby is too

good to be true. When youre in

Wal-Mart and you see ruby earings

that are perfectly clear and bright

red for $59, you know they are

synthetic (the tag will usually say so

as well)

Read more about individual gemstone

Panna

(Emerald)

Manik

(Ruby)Neelam

(Blue Sapphire)


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(Emerald)

Emerald has been prized, important, sacred and very expensive for thousands of years. It is one of themost precious gemstones in the world. The defining characteristic of emerald that makes it so desirable isits color: an inspiring emerald green.

The Most Valuable Emerald

The most valuable emerald is of a striking, perfect emerald green, large in size (over 5 cts.), fairly clearand perfectly cut (faceted).

Here is a Summary of Emeralds of Different Levels of Quality and Value:

Lowest Value:

These emeralds

are so included,they are opaque.

Their color is dark

and dull. They are

small and poorly

cut. Emeralds like

this are not worth

much.

Low Value: The

emerald in this ring

has better claritythan the ones to the

left. The clarity is still

rather poor,

however. The cut is

mediocre and it is

small. The best thing

about this emerald is

its lovely color. If this

gemstone were by

itself, it should not

cost more than $100.

High Value: This

emerald has

poorer clarity thanthe one before.

However, its

intense glowing

color and its large

size make it worth

more.

Highest Value:

Here is an example

of one of the highestquality emeralds you

can buy. It is large

(over 2 carats), very

nice clarity (for an

emerald), perfect

cut, and glowing

emerald green color.

An emerald like this

is worth several

thousand dollars.

6 Things You Should Know Before Buying an Emerald

1. Color: The most important determiner of an emeralds quality is its color. The best color for an emeraldis a bright intense green that is not too dark and not too pale.Learn more about how COLORaffects the value of an emerald.

2. Size: The bigger the emerald, the more valuable it is. Very small emeralds can be purchased quite


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affordably, because there is less material, and also because small emeralds are less rare than largeemeralds. Learn more about How SIZE affects the value of an emerald.

3. Cut: The price and value of an emerald is also determined by the quality of its cut. A well cut emeraldwill sparkle and reflect the maximum amount of light. Learn more about How CUT affects the value ofan emerald.

4. Clarity: Almost all natural emeralds have some amount of cloudiness or internal flaws, calledinclusions. It is acceptable for emeralds to have less than perfect clarity and it does not lower theemeralds value. However, there is a significant difference in emeralds that are heavily included, or are socloudy that they lose their transparency. Learn more about how CLARITY affects the value of anemerald.

5. Shape: Oval, Rectangular and square emeralds are quite beneficial for astrological purpose.

6. Treatments, Synthetics and Imitations:Almost all emeralds go through some kind of treatmentbefore they are made into jewelry. Some of these treatments are accepted and some are consideredfraudulent. Also because of their high value, emeralds are commonly synthesized in labs. Andoccasionally, a dishonest vender may try to sell another gemstone and pass it off as emerald. Read hereto learn about Emerald treatments and synthetics and how to tell the difference.

7. Astrology Significance: Emeralds have a lot of healing properties and have been important to manycultures for thousands of years. Learn more aboutEmerald Jyotish Significanceto see if its somethingyou relate to.

Below are large pictures of individual emerald gemstones and emerald jewelry discussed and

analyzed.

Here is an emerald cut into a cabochon.

Emeralds cut into cabochon are always of poorer

clarity and are generally less expensive.

However, this one has a very nice green color

which makes it more valuable.


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These are examples of the worst quality

emeralds. The clarity is very poor, the cuts are

bad, they are small, and most importantly, the

color is dull. Do not buy emeralds like this unlessyou just want to own an emerald and youre on a

tight budget.

The emerald in this ring is nice and clear a little

too clear. In fact its absence of the characteristic

inclusions is an indication that it is synthetic. Thecut is okay: allows for a nice reflection of light.

The green is just a tad too yellow.

This is the kind of emerald you want to buy.

Even though it is not as clear as the emerald in

the ring above, it is more valuable because of its

glowing emerald green color. The poor claritydoes not detract significantly from its value and

the cut is very good (all facets are even and light

is reflected from the bottom)

This emerald is nice and clear and very well cut

(emerald cut). However, the green color is a bittoo dark.


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This emerald has poor clarity with many

whispy inclusions and fractures typical of

emerald. However, the main detractor of

its value is the yellowish green color. Anemeralds color should be a bit bluer and

more vibrant.

This is an example of a very poorly cut emerald.

We can see through the bottom, which means it

was not cut properly: light should be reflectedback to our eyes. The facets are also uneven

and chipped. Like most emeralds, this one is

included so the clarity is poor. The color in this

one is too teal and too pale.

Emerald Color

How Color Affects the Value of Emerald

The color of an emerald is its most important determiner of value. The best color of an emerald isemerald green. There is nothing else in the world that quite has this color. It is not too yellow and nottoo blue; it is not pale or dark, but intense and bright. A quality emerald looks like its glowing. Typically,

the finest colored emeralds come from Columbia.

An illustration of how color affects the value of emerald. Note: Color is the most important factordetermining the value of an emerald.


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Too Dark: This emerald is

very dark green. It does not

have the signature emerald

green color: this is a color

common in other, less

valuable stones. Since we

buy emerald for its color, we

dont want it to have one like

this.

Too Yellow: This

color of emerald is

lovely and intense,

though a little too

yellow to have the

highest value.

Too Blue and Pale:

This color is not a true

emerald green

either. It is too

blue. The color is also

rather pale.

Best Color: This is

emerald green. This stone

has an intense glowing

color that is a shade

different from any other

green gemstone. This

color emerald is the most

valuable.

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Emerald Carat Weight

After color, the most important determining factor of the value of an emerald is its size.

How the Size of an Emerald Affects its Value

Very large emeralds (over 10 cts) of good quality are extremely rare. Most of them are in museums,crown jewels or the jewelry boxes of the elite. Emeralds over 3 cts are even rare, available to averagepeople for thousands of dollars. An emerald of good quality of any size is valuable, though the price willgo down significantly when the stone is less than 1/2 carat.In the wholesale gem trade, emeralds are sold on a price per carat basis. Therefore, it would makesense that a 3 carat emerald would cost more than a 1 carat emerald, all else being equal. However, anaditional factor is that it is rarer to find a 3 carat emerald than a 1 carat emerald. Therefore, not only isthe total price higher, but the price per carat is also higher because of the added rarity factor.


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For example, a 1 carat emerald of excellent quality might cost $1000. A 3 carat emerald of the samequality would NOT cost $3000 (3 X 1), rather it might cost $8000.

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Emerald Cut

How Cut Affects the Value of Emerald

A well cut emerald is an emerald that sparkles and glows to i ts maximum ability. Perfect cut is not quite asimportant for emerald as it is for most gemstones, because emerald is valued for its depth of color mostly,and is often too included to sparkle anyway. The shape emerald cut which is popular now for diamondsas well as other gemstones was in fact originally created for emerald. This cut was used for cuttingemerald because it emphasizes color instead of sparkle. However, it is still important to know thedifference between a good and a bad cut, so that when presented with a choice of emeralds, you canchoose a well-cut one. When judging the cut of an emerald, you should look for:

1. Fish eye: if the bottom emerald is not cut at the proper angles, you will be able to see throughthe emerald rather than seeing light reflected back to you.

2. Uneven facets: especially prounounced in emerald cuts, step cuts, baguette and princess cuts,which are common among emeralds. These cuts have long straight facets instead of smalltrangles and diamonds. A poorly cut emerald of this style will have one end smaller than the otherinstead of an even length.

3. Polish:emeralds can be difficult to polish because of the natural structure of the crystal, so twirlthe emerald around, to see that each facet reflects light like a mirror with no rough or dull spots.

Also, emeralds are prone to internal cracks and frissures which can also appear on the surface. Ifyou see a any fine rough lines on the surface facets of the emeralds, it is a flaw in the cutting andyou should avoid it as it can make your emerald vulnerable.

Here are some illustrations of how the quality of cut affects the value of emerald.

Terrible Cut: This

gemstone does not

sparkle nor does it

reflect light from the

bottom facets. It is a

fish eye. We can see

straight through it.

Poor Cut: This emeralds

cut is better: there is some

sparkle and reflection

around the sides of the

stone. However, we can still

see straight through it and

the facets overlap: meet at

lines instead of points.

Typical Cut: This cut

is similar to what exists

in most jewelry: there

is some sparkle but

the facets are uneven.

Perfect Cut: This is a

perfectly, beautifully cut

emerald. The lights play

and reflect from every

facet. We cannot see

through it: we only see

sparkle.


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Treatments and Synthetics

Emerald Treatments

Almost every emerald available on the market has been treated to improve its clarity. Because emeraldsare naturally full of cracks and fissures which make it more opaque and less attractive, it has become anindustry standard to fill the cracks in emerald, thereby improving its clarity. Traditional fillers are naturaloils such as cedar oil. Over many decades, these oils may fade or sweat. Although they are acceptedand do not make an emerald worth less, there is discussion regarding the permanence of the treatment.(For a gemstone treatment to not diminish a gemstones value, it must be permanent. See GeneralGemstone Information.) Other methods of filling cracks in emerald are bing explored such as waxes,resins and even glass. A substance is considered good for filling cracks in emeralds when it reflects lightin a way very similar to emerald, thus making the fillings less noticeable.

While filling cracks is acceptable for improving clarity, sometimes it is also used for improving color. Forexample, green dyed oil is used. This is generally considered deceptive and it is better to not buy thesedyed emeralds. This can be detected under 10X magnification.

Synthetic EmeraldsIn recent years, synthetic emeralds have become very available on the market. They go by labels suchas created, lab, synthetic, Chatham (a large producer of Synthetic emeralds). They are realemeralds in the sense that they are the same mineral, the difference is they were made in a labratoryinstead of in the earth. Synthetic emeralds are usually much clearer than natural emeralds: fewerinclusions. It is also possible to find deep attractive colors in synthetic emeralds. Created emeralds aremore or less about 1/10 the price of natural emeralds with the same characteristics.

Dyed: This may be an

example of an emerald

that has been treated with

dyed oil to improve not

only its clarity but its

color. The clue is that all

the cracks are the same,

distinct color from the rest

of the stone

Treated Emerald: This is

an example of an average

quality emerald that has

been treated by filling

cracks with oil or

resin. We cannot tell the

difference, and we dont

need to because it doesnt

hurt the value.

Created: Here is a very

clear emerald. Though it

does have some large

inclusions, the absence of

milkiness and the very

bright geen color are hints

that it is synthetic. An

emerald like this is very

rare to find in nature

Created: A perfectly

clear emerald. When

you see an emerald

this clear (no

inclusions at all), you

can be certain that it is

synthetic,


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Emerald Jyotish Symbology and Significance

Emerald or Panna gemstone should be worn especially by teachers diplomats, scientists,astrologers, architects medical personalities, doctors, businessmen, property dealers, publishers,

accountants, engineers, writers, post officers, insurance officers and intellectuals. Emerald orPanna gemstone increases reasoning power, presence of mind and spiritual power.

General Characteristics of Mercury:Maternal Uncle, Intelligence, Logic, Mathematics, Humor, Speech,Skin, Nervous system, Green color, Emerald and North.

Emerald is known as the stone of successful love, providing sensitivity and loyalty to its wearers. Thesymbology and meaning of emerald is also one of mental discernment, giving the ability to make a rightchoice. It brings harmony, action and progress.

Emerald Folklore and Mythology

Emeralds have been sacred and prized for over 4000 years. They were used by priests and rulers ofboth Ancient Egypt and Greece. It was beleived to aid in eloquent speaking and in seeing thetruth despite clouded emotions. Emerald was one of the stones in the breastplate of the High Priest inthe Christian Bible. There was also a beleif that Emeralds were sensitive to sexual energy, as relayedin this legend : the Hungarian King Bela, who owned a very valuable emerald ring experienced that whenhe reached to embrace his new wife, his emerald broke into 3 pieces. Emerald was also one of thestones supposedly given to King Soloman which gave him power over the all creation

Emerald is the birthstone of May.

Healing Properties of EmeraldEmerald is beneficial in healing the heart, lungs, muscular system and spine. It can also be used to

soothe the eyes.

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Ruby

Rubies are arguably the most precious and valuable of all colored gemstones. Ruby (Manak) isgemstones of Surya. Rubies have been important in many cultures for thousands of years. Ruby ischaracterized by its vibrant shades of red, excellent luster (facets reflect light almost like a mirror), andhardness (it is difficult to scratch and therefore resilient). Very fine large gemstones of ruby areexceedingly rare.

6 Things You Should Know Before Buying a Ruby

1. Color: The closer the color is to bright blood red, the more valuable it is. Less valuable rubies can be

dark wine color, or pink. Learn more aboutHow COLOR affects the value of ruby.

2. Carat Weight:The more carats a ruby gemstone is, the more valuable it is. 4 carat ruby with goodcolor and clarity is valubale. Rubies larger than this a rare and very expensive. Learn more aboutHowSIZE affects the value of a Ruby.

3. Clarity: Most natural rubies have some cloudiness or imperfections inside: very few are perfectly clear.Better quality rubies are transparent, not opaque. Learn more abouthow CLARITY affects the value ofa Ruby.

4. Cut: The quality of a rubys cut determines how well it sparkles. Perfectly cut rubies are very valuableand hard to find. Learn more abouthow CUT affects the value of ruby.

5. Shape: Oval, Rectangular and square rubies are quite beneficial for astrological purpose.

6. Treatments, Synthetics and Imitations:Almost all rubies are treated to improve their clarity andcolor. Heat treatment is standard and widely accepted. The treatement that the ruby receives can affectits value and quality.In addition, lab created rubies are widely available and are worth much less thannatural rubies. Some dishonest sellers might try to sell you a fake ruby. Read here to learn aboutrubytreatments, synthetics and imitationsand how to tell the difference.

7. Astrology Significance: Rubies have been sacred to many cultures for centuries. Learn more abouttheJyotish Significance of ruby.

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Ruby Color

The color of ruby and how it affects a rubys value

Rubies range from dark pink, to near blackish or browninsh red, to bright red, to orangish red. A ruby isalways red. If it is any other color, it is called a sapphire. An excellent color can make the differencebetween an amazing ruby and an average ruby. The most valuable color of ruby is familiarly called,pigeon blood red. It is not the most glamorous name, but the color is one of the most heart stoppingcolors found in the gemstone world.

An illustration of how color affects the value of ruby.

Too Dark: This ruby is a

very dark wine-like

color. Rubies of this

color are fairly common

and less valuable

Too Light: This ruby is

almost too pink and pale to

be called a ruby, but

instead a pink sapphire

(much less valuable than

ruby)

Too Pink: Here is an

attractive, intense

color. However this color

is still a touch pinker than

ideal for a ruby.

Best Color: This ruby

is bright, pure red. This

is the most valuable

and rare color of ruby.

Ruby Carat Weight

How the Size of a Ruby Affects its Value

In the wholesale gem trade, rubies are sold on a price per carat basis. Therefore, it would make sensethat a 5 carat ruby would cost more than a 1 carat ruby, all else being equal. However, an aditional factoris that it is rarer to find a 5 carat ruby than a 1 carat ruby. Therefore, not only is the total price higher, butthe price per carat is also higher because of the added rarity factor.

For example, a 1 carat ruby of excellent quality might cost $1000. A 5 carat ruby of the same qualitywould NOT cost $5000 (5 X 1), rather it might cost $10,000.

Here is a comparison of rubies. They have similar color, so we can see how their size affects theirvalue. Note: We are comparing only the main stones, not their settings.


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Very small: Rubies of

this size are not

rare. By themselves,

they would be worth

less than $100.

Average: This size ruby

(about 1 ct.) is more

valuble but still easy to

find. It would cost about

2 or 3 times the value of

the stones to the left.

Large:Rubies this size

(over 3 carats) are very

rare. A stone of this size

can cost between 7 and

10 times the price of the

one before.

Very Large: Rubies of this

size (over 7 carats) usually

belong to queens or in

museums. The price of

one would be 2 to 4 times

the value of the previous

ruby.

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Ruby Clarity

How Clarity Affects the Value of Ruby

It is very rare (nearly unheard of) to find a ruby with natural perfect clarity. 99.9% of rubies are heattreated or irradiated to improve clarity, diminishing the appearnace of the many inclusions. The mostcommon form of inclusion in ruby is white whispy wavy deposits of rutile.

Terrible Clarity: This

ruby is very included: we

can see large white

inclusions inside it and it

has an overall opaque

appearance due to many

Poor Clarity: This ruby is

not very clear either. It

has better clarity than the

first though, because

there are no obvious large

inclusions and the stone

Typical Clarity: A ruby

like this is what is most

commonly available in

jewelry. It is too cloudy or

included to see completely

into the stone. However, it

Very Good Clarity: In

a natural ruby, this is as

good as it gets. A ruby

this clear is very

rare. It is not perfectly

clear: there are some


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small inclusions that

make it cloudy. Rubies

of this clarity are not

precious and should

never be very expensive

is still more transparent

than opaque. However, it

is not clear enough to be

faceted.

is clear enough that we

are able to see some light

and sparkle. A ruby of this

clarity can be valuable if it

is also very large and of

excellent color.

visible inclusions, but in

all, the clarity alone

makes this ruby very

valuable.

Ruby Cut

How Cut Affects the Value of Ruby

It is nearly impossible to find a perfectly cut natural ruby in the marketplace. There are two reasons. Oneis that rubies are very expensive, precious and rare, so there is a hesitancy to cut off any more stone thanabsolutely necessary during the faceting process. The other reason is that ruby forms in the earths crustas octahedral crystals, that are usually wide and flat. These two facts mean that cut rubies found in

jewelry are usually cut too shallow. You can sometimes see through them (called fish eye), where if it

were cut at the proper angles and proportions, you would only see light and glitter reflected back to you.

A well cut ruby is exceedingly beautiful and hard to find. You will know a well cut ruby when you see itbecause it will dazzle you with its sparkle. This is because when the facets are cut at the proper angles,they act as mirrors and bounce light all around the inside of the stone. Unfortunately, cutting a ruby at theproper angles usually means grinding away a large part of the ruby (a very skilled cutter will cut awayeven 80%). And since rubies are such valuable gemstones, most of the time gemcutters ere on the sideof keeping the gemstone as large as possible, instead of being cut at the proper angles. When you arelooking for a ruby, you can use the following guidelines to help you assess the cut. (Though, you shouldgo in expecting a poor one.)

1. Uneven facets:Rubies are usually given mixed or cushion cuts. Most of them are cut in southAsian countries by hand without the latest lapidary machines. Look for some of the facets to bestrangely shaped or for facets which overlap, meeting at a line instead of one singlepoint. These are signs of a poor cut.

2. Fish eye: if the bottom ruby is not cut at the proper angles, you will be able to see throughthe ruby rather than seeing light reflected back to you.

3. Dullness:Basically, you can tell how well a ruby is cut by how well it sparkles. (This can also beaffected by clarity, however)

4. Shallow of Flat Stones: If you are able to see the ruby from the side and it is significantly widerthan it is tall, you are looking at a typical bad cut.


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Here are some illustrations of how the quality of cut affects the value of a ruby.

Poor Cut:This is an example of a

fish eye. We can nearly see

straight through this ruby instead

of seeing the sparkle of light

reflected back to us.

Typical Cut: This cut is

similar to what exists in most

jewelry: there is some sparkle

but the facets are uneven.

Perfect Cut:This is a perfectly,

beautifully cut ruby. The lights play

and reflect from every facet. We

cannot see through it: we only see

sparkle. Every facet is even and

symetrical.

Treatments and Synthetics

Ruby Treatments

About 99% of rubies on the market are heat treated. Exposing the rubies to extremely high heatimproves the rubies clarity and in some cases, color as well.This treatment is so common, itis worldly accepted by gemologist. There is nothing suspicious at all about a heat treated ruby.

In recent years, more sophisticated treatments have arisen such as glass filling and fluxhealing. Basically, these methods melt out the natural inclusions and fill them with either glass are a kindof synthesis of the ruby crystal. This improves clarity as well, though these treatments are moreexpensive, more controversial, and less common. (For a gemstone treatment to not diminish agemstones value, it must be permanent. See General Gemstone Information.)Synthetic RubiesIn recent years, synthetic rubies have become very available on the market. They go by labels such ascreated, lab, synthetic, Chatham (a large producer of Synthetic rubies). They are real rubies in thesense that they are the same mineral, the difference is they were made in a labratory instead of in theearth.


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Synthetic rubies are usually much clearer than natural rubies: fewer inclusions. Synthetic rubies arecheaper than natural rubies, all other factors being equal.

Heated: This is a very clear natural

heat-treated ruby. Heat treated

rubies are the most common and

range considerably in their levels of

clarity. Generally, though they areusually cloudier than man made

rubies.

Created: This ruby is too

good to be true: the first sign

that it is probably synthetic is

that it is very clear. These

rubies are less valuable.

Untreated: Only a handful of rubies

in the world are untreated. Large,

clear rubies of good color that are

untreated command extremely high

prices and can only be found in themost expensive jewelry stores.

Sapphires

Sapphires are one of the most precious, historically important and valuable gemstones. Sapphires comein every color except for red. (A red sapphire is called a ruby) Sapphires are valued for their strongluster (ability to reflect light like a mirror), and hardness: they are the next hardest stones after diamonds.This means they can be worn in rings and bracelets for centuries with a low chance of being scratched.

6 Things You Should Know Before Buying a Sapphire

1. Color: The color of a sapphire is one of the strongest determinants of its value. Blue sapphires come ina range of shades. The brightest,most intense are the most valuable.

Yellow Sapphires, also known as Fancy Sapphires are bright gemstones that range in color from a LightButtery Yellow, a Medium Buttery Yellow or Light Canary Yellow, a Rich Buttery Yellow or CanaryYellow, to a Rich Canary Yellow.

Learn more aboutHow color affects the value of sapphire.

2. Clarity: Clarity is the other most important factor in determining the value of a sapphire. A high qualitysapphire must be free from visible inclusions (internal imperfections). Learn more about How clarityaffects the value of sapphire.

3. Carat Weight: Large, quality sapphires are rare and expensive. For the same color, clarity and cut, thelarger the sapphire, the more valuable it is. See pictures and learn more about How size affects thevalue of sapphire.


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4. Cut: Most sapphires available in jewelry are quite poorly cut. Perfectly cut sapphires are usually onlyavailable in the finest jewelry and their price reflects a premium. Learn how to tell the difference betweena poor cut and a quality cut before buying your sapphire. Read about how cut affects the value ofsapphire.

5. Shape:Oval, Rectangular and square rubies are quite beneficial for astrological purpose.

6. Treatments, Synthetics and Imitations:Sapphires are often synthesized and immitated by othersubstances. In addition, almost all natural sapphires undergo some kind of treatment process. Learnabout these before sapphire shopping. Read here to learn abouttreatments, synthetics and imitationsof sapphire and how to tell the difference.

7. Astrology Significance: Sapphire has been revered for centuries all over the world. It is rich withsymbolism and special healing properties. Learn more about sapphire Jyotish Significance to see if itssomething you relate to.

Most Valuable SapphireThe most valuable sapphire has an intense and beautiful color (cornflower blue and padparascha are themost valued colors), a perfect cut (very difficult to find in sapphire), a large size (over 3 carats), and good

clarity (sapphires are rarely perfectly clear).

Lower Value: This

sapphire is the least

valuable type of

sapphire. It is cut en

cabochon which shows it

is of inferior clarity. The

color is much too dark

and dull. And it is not

very large (about 1

carat). Such a sapphire

can be bought for under

$50.

Low Value: Sapphires

like this are common in

low range fine jewelry.

The color and clarity are

better than the previous

one. However, the color

is still too dark. It is very

small (about 1/2 carat)

and very poor cut (too

shallow).

Medium Value: This

kind of sapphire is what

you usually find in fine

jewelry. It is larger than

average (about 2

carats), of very good

clarity for a sapphire; the

cut is decent and the

color is attractive

(though still darker than

ideal).

High Value:Sapphires like

this are very hard to find,

let alone afford. This

sapphire is extremely

valuable mostly because of

its bright cornflower blue

color and its unusually

good clarity. The cut is also

good and it is large (over 5

carats). A sapphire like this

will cost several thousands

of dollars.


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Here are some more pictures of sapphires with a more detailed analysis.

This is an example of a sapphire of very poor clarity which detracts from its

value: the stone is not transparent and does not reflect light or sparkle. It does

however have an excellent color and it is very large. This stone would be

worth very little if it werent for its color.

This sapphire is of very poor clarity : we cannot see into the stone,

nor is any light reflected from the bottom facets. In addtition, the

color is very dark blue: the color that is the most common and

least valuable in blue sapphire. Its poor clarity and color make this

stone very inexpensive.

The sapphire in this ring is very typical of what you

find in most jewelry. Its clarity is good enough sothat we can see the sparkle from the bottom

facets (though there are several large inclusions).

The color is darker than is ideal. The cut is also

not correctly proportioned: some light escapes

through the bottom and the facets are strangely

shaped (the top or table facet should be wider to

let in more light.) This sapphire is of good quality,

but nothing exceptional.


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This sapphire is a lovely light blue color: probably its most valuable

characteristic. The stone is clear: we can see into most of the stone

and see a sparkle. However there are many large inclusions that

also detract from its value (large fractures toward the bottom and

something brown in the stone to the right). However the worst part

of this stone is its cut. The cut is very sloppy: the facets are uneven

and misproportioned.

What an amazing sapphire! What makes it amazing is its ideal

blue color. This is commonly called cornflower blue and it is

bright and deep. The clarity is not perfect (if you look near the

top you can see the lines and fractures), however natural

sapphires are usually with some inclusions. Plenty of light andsparkle reach the eyes despite the inclusions. The cut is slightly

disproportionate but not so much that large quantities of light

are lost.

Here is another very high quality blue sapphire. Its clarity is outstanding

so clear it looks synthetic. The cut is excellent: facets are even and the

stone is well proportioned. The color is also a very nice blue. If you see asapphire like this in your price range, buy it.

An example of a badly cut sapphire. This cut is terrible. The obvious

problem is that the facets are very uneven. The table facet (top flat

facet) is unevenly shaped and way too small. It is also a fish eye

meaning the stone was cut to be too wide and too shallow, thus letting

light escape through the bottom. We can see through it where weshould see sparkle. Otherwise, the color is okay and the clarity is

good. However the very poor cut of this stone makes it considerably

less valuable.


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This is the kind of sapphire we see most commonly in jewelry. The

color is dark; the clarity is poor; the cut of the stone is too wide and too

shallow; and the stone is small. These sapphires are common, easy tofind and should not be expensive, (i.e. a stone for sale for $20)

Wow! The color and clarity of this blue sapphire make it one of

the best you could ever buy. The cut is not perfect (facets do

not meet nicely at the corners), but it still sparkles and reflectslight nicely. This stone is exquisite.

As low quality as it gets. These sapphires are very

small and of terrible clarity. They are nearly opaque:

we almost cant see into them. Their cuts are muchtoo shallow, almost like faceted disks. And finally, the

color of most of them is so dark, its almost black.

Here is a fine yellow sapphire. Its greatest asset is its intense yellow color. It is

also fairly clear (only small inclusions). The cut is alright: we see l ight reflected

and sparkle. However, the facets are irregular and some light escapes through

the very tip. In general, this is a purchase worthy yellow sapphire.


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This yellow sapphire has a rare, beautiful and valuable golden color. Its

clarity is less than ideal: we can see small specks and streaks throughout

the stone. The cut (princess shape) is a bit uneven and sloppy butgenerally, this is a fine yellow sapphire.

0

Clarity

How Clarity Affects the Value of Sapphire

Sapphires with perfect clarity are very very rare. Even the highest quality, most expensive sapphires canusually get away with having some slight inclusion (internal flaw). The clarity of a sapphire really affectsits value when it is not clear enough to be faceted. Sapphires of such poor clarity can be heavily cloudedor almost opaque.

Sometimes, inclusions or internal flaws can even add value to a sapphire. Some sapphires containinclusions of another mineral called rutile. The inclusions form in a special way so that they form a 6pointed star on the face of the cut cabochon. A nice blue color with a very well pronounced white star inthe center can be worth much more than a perfectly clear sapphire of the same size.

Very poor

clarity: The

clarity of this

sapphire is so

poor that it

could not be

Poor clarity: These sapphires are just barely

clear enough to facet. There are areas inside

the stone that are transparent, but for the most

part they are heavily included.

Perfect Clarity:This sapphire has no

visible inclusions whatsoever. Clarity

this perfect is hard to find in a natural

sapphire.


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faceted. You

can see that it

is not very

transparent and

light does not

reflect from

inside it.

Carat Weight

How Size Affects the Value of Sapphire

Large sapphires (over 3 carats) are very rare. Among high quality sapphire, a stone with 3 timesthe carat weight of another may be worth 8 times the price. As with many precious gems, color andclarity come first, but if those two are high quality, then size makes a big difference.

Small: This is a small sapphire, not

too uncommon to find injewelry. This size sapphire (about

1/4 carat) is never far out of

reach. Even the highest quality

sapphire of this size would cost $50

to $100.

Medium : Most sapphires that are

the centerpeice of fine jewerly arebetween .5 ct and 1.5 carat. The

highest quality 1.5 carat sapphire

can cost between $200 and $500.

Huge:This sapphire is a once

in a lifetime type of stone. It isalmost 10 carats. High quality

sapphires over 3 carats can

cost thousands of dollars.

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Cut

How cut affects the value of sapphire

How well a sapphire is cut affects its value and beauty. A well cut sapphire reflects the maximum amountof light and dazzles the viewer with sparkle. A poorly cut sapphire will have uneven facets and will letlight escape rather than reflect. Note that when it comes to a gemstones cut, the quality affects the valenot the shape.

Because natural sapphire is such a precious material, and it naturally forms in shallow, short crystals, acutter will often cut it too shallow rather than cut away valuable material. This means that most of the


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sapphires available are cut in such a way that they are too flat. A sapphire that is cut too flat (called fisheye) lets light escape though the bottom rather than reflecting it.

Very Poor Cut: We have a

slight side view of this

sapphire gemstone,

allowing us to see how

shallow it has beencut. This gemstone

reflects very little light.

fish eye: This cut is

better, but still

disappointing. We see

sparkle around the

edges, but none in themiddle.

Mediocre cut: There is

more sparkle in this

saphire but if you look

closely, you will see that

the facets are uneven.

Excellent cut:The cut of

this sapphire is

perfect. light is

reflected from each facet

inside the stone and thefacets are neat and even.

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Blue Sapphire Treatments and Synthetics

Sapphire Treatments, Synthetics and Imitations

Treatments:Almost all sapphire gemstones are treated in labratories. Most sapphires, when theyare taken from the earth have very poor clarity and tend to have dark dull colors. Sapphires that

have not been exposed to any kind of treatmentbut still have good color and clarity are extremely rare(about 1% of sapphires) and can be very expensive.

Heat:The most common and widely accepted form of treatment is heat treatment.Heat treatmentshas been used to improve the appearance of sapphires for a long time.

Diffusion: Diffusion involves exposing the sapphire to chemicals and then very high heat. This treatmentcan dramatically improve the color of a sapphire. It is also used to artifically put a star into sapphirecabochons. Often, however, the color doesnt penetrate into the entire stone. Diffusion treatment isnot as widely accepted as simple heat treatment because it is seen as less stable.If there are twosapphires that look identical, one with heat treatment and the other with diffusion, the heat treatedsapphire will be worth more.

Glass filled or flux: This is a treatment used on sapphires to improve their clarity. The inclusions insidethe sapphire gemstone are burned or melted or drilled out and the holes are filled with various crystalinematerials. This process is expensive and somewhat controversial because it is difficult to detect.

Synthetics: Synthetic sapphires are genuine, real sapphires. The difference is that these are made byhumans instead of the earth. Sapphires are one of the most widely synthesized gemstones in theworld. The reason is that natural sapphires are quite expensive and the process for creating sapphires ina labratory is fairly inexpensive. Usually jewelry sellers will disclose if a gem is labratory


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created. Otherwise, if you see a very high quality sapphire for too low of a price, you can bet that it issynthetic.

Imitations: Imitation sapphires are other substances, such as glass, blue cz, or synthetic spinel. Unlikesynthetics, these things are not acutally sapphires. Selling another material as a sapphire isfraudulent. You can tell the difference in several ways.

Fake: This sapphire cz

is for sale on ebay for$.99 . Perfect clarity and

homogenous bright color

make it stand out from

real sapphires. And, of

course, no one will sell a

real sapphire for $.99

Difusion treated:

Such a wellpronounced perfectly

visible white star is

usually the result of

diffusion treatment.

Heat Treated:There

is a wide range ofqualities in heat

treated

sapphires. This one

is a better quality

sapphire.

Untreated:This sapphire is

untreated. If it were to undergosome kind of treatment, its

clarity and color would be

improved. However, the lack

of treatment provides us the

opportunity to observe

interesting natural inclusions.

1

Natural sapphire and a treated one

Most (if not all) sapphires and sapphire jewelry seen online and in retail

stores will be described as natural sapphires. These natural sapphires

are usually not accompanied with proper disclosure regarding the

treatments that they have undergone. The word natural is intended to

identify a sapphire crystal that has come from the ground (not

synthetically created). What is likely to be left out in the description is thefact that the color and clarity, indicated as natural, is really not just

natural. In almost all cases the color and clarity of the sapphire will

come from various treatments that you may very well not be aware of.


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Yes, a natural sapphire is a sapphire crystal that has been created in the ground but the color andclarity (what you are paying for in a sapphire) is created from a heating process that would have neveroccurred naturally in the stone that is being shown.

The truth is that almost everything you will see in sapphires anywhere is treated, and treating is not asimple process. It is a sophisticated procedure that has taken decades to perfect by experiencedenhancement specialists. The stones are not just thrown in an oven and baked like cookies.

Treating and heating a stone is a very involved process that significantly changes the original appearance(and value) of the rough crystal that came out of the ground. Ultra-high temperature gas furnaces heatthese stones for a period of 3-10 days, at or above the melting point of the crystal (1800C). Additivessuch as glass and coloring agents can be included in the heating process in order to fill in natural cavitiesand cracks in the sapphires. Coloring agents are then diffused into the heating process in many cases,where the coloring of the sapphire is completely and radically altered. Trying to determine what you arebuying is now a scientific research project in most cases.

Obviously, our business is all about the rare and truly natural beauty of real sapphires, so of course wecan be a bit too direct when it comes to comparing the differences between a treated sapphire and aREAL untreated sapphire. We try to be fair, but we find disclosure and education is heavily underminedby most other companies selling treated stones.

A Natural Untreated sapphire is nothing more and nothing less it is the stone from the ground as MotherNature made it. The color and clarity is just how it came from the earth, all we do is facet it!


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Gems Genuine Treatment

99% of Ruby and sapphire gemstones are heat treated. Heat treatment is most natural and widelyaccepted treatment across the world.

Treatments Summary

y Heat Treatment Ruby, Blue Sapphire and Yellow Sapphire heated at high temperatures toenhance color. Its genuine treatment accepted across the world.

y Irradiation: It is common to irradiate Aquamarine, London Blue Topaz, Emerald, and Diamond aswell as other gem stones. This treatment brings out color and removes imperfections.Manydealers know if the gemstones they are selling have been irradiated. Honest ones will tell you ifthey are aware of the treatment.

y Diffusion is used to deepen a gems color. Diffusion only intensifies a gemstones outer layers.y Oil and waxes Emerald is dipped in petroleum products to bring out color and to seal it and

turquoise is waxed.y Fracture filling coats gems with a clear or colored epoxy resin or another substance. The

treatment fills-in cracks, which improves the appearance of the gemstone.y Laser drilling removes inclusions, improving clarity.

Emeralds Oiling Treatment:Emeralds are typically found with natural internal fissures which are known as gardens. Long ago it wasdiscovered that the simple application of oils would greatly reduce the visibility of these inclusions,thereby noticeably enhancing the emerald is appearance. This practice has become traditional and isaccepted throughout the precious gem trade. Emeralds are also known to be not quite as durable asdiamond, ruby and sapphire. This fact combined with the common practice of oiling requires the owner totake a little extra care of their wonderful green gems.

It is also common to oil emeralds to enhance their appearance, usually done as a post-lapidary process inthe country of origin. This is acceptable in the gem industry as long as no coloring agents are used.

Ruby Heating Treatment:Natural rubies are also treated to enhance its color, clarity and transparency. Most popular treatment isheat treatment. Natural rubies are costlier than treated rubies. There are some other treatments such asglass filling and led filling. Glass filling enhances clarity of rubies and led filling enhances both clarity andcolor. However, led filling is injurious to health.


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Sapphire Heating Treatment:Yes, a natural sapphire is a sapphire crystal that has been created in the ground but the color andclarity (what you are paying for in a sapphire) is created from a heating process that would have neveroccurred naturally in the stone that is being shown.

The truth is that almost everything you will see in sapphires anywhere is treated, and treating is not asimple process. It is a sophisticated procedure that has taken decades to perfect by experiencedenhancement specialists. The stones are not just thrown in an oven and baked like cookies.

Treating and heating a stone is a very involved process that significantly changes the original appearance(and value) of the rough crystal that came out of the ground. Ultra-high temperature gas furnaces heatthese stones for a period of 3-10 days, at or above the melting point of the crystal (1800C). Additivessuch as glass and coloring agents can be included in the heating process in order to fill in natural cavitiesand cracks in the sapphires. Coloring agents are then diffused into the heating process in many cases,where the coloring of the sapphire is completely and radically altered. Trying to determine what you arebuying is now a scientific research project in most cases.

natural gems - brief information

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