need assesment survey + design clinic workshop...

An Interactive design study of

APPLIQUÉ CLUSTER Arrah, Bihar

DESIGN AWARENESS PROGRAMMENEED ASSESMENT SURVEY + DESIGN CLINIC WORKSHOP

for Design Clinic Scheme for MSMEs, 2014

Designed and Documented by :

PRITAM SAHA,Design Consultant.

‘Appliqu� at Arrah !’# APPLIQUÉ#DAP (NAS + Design Workshop)#Pritam Saha, Design Consultant An Interactive design study ...

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P R E F A C E :

Applique is one of the major textile technique which has found its way in almost every section of the fashion industry, from luxury designer products to regular craft expo goodies which sits in every indian households, the wall hangings to the bed sheets.

A YSL leather appliqué bag for 300$ to an appliqué artisan's house in the interiors of Bihar, India, the contrast has been dramatic.

Do the makers of handicrafts in numerous clusters of India know their markets, understand the value and potential of their skills?

In the modern world of fashion where designs are created at one part of the world, manufactured in another and consumed in another, the knowledge and awareness of the design process needs to seep in all across the chain, for a sustainable future. In short the creator of handicrafts should know their creations from a practical point of view, which is somewhat the key effort of this project, and the other initiatives by De-sign Clinic Schemes for MSMEs.

Arrah, an important town in Bihar, with its newly formed micro cluster in Appliqué, has acquired a basic skill set in the craft, and needs to know about the modern design process for further progress in their businesses. An effort to realize the same is what follows in this project.

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A C K N O W L E D G E M E N T S :

The project would not have been possible without the help of the following people. Their contribution and active participation in the initiative is the key reason for the activities that have followed and I am really thankful to them for the same.

• Mrs. Ruma Verma - Master Craftsperson, Chairperson at Jai Prabha Mahila Udyog Kendra, Patna

• Mr. Jayanto Ghosh - Master Craftperson, Project Co-Ordinator at Jai Prabha Mahila Udyog Kendra, Patna

• Mrs. Manju Devi - Master Craftperson, Social Worker, Arrah

• Mr. Ashok Kumar Sinha - Deputy Development Officer, Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan, Patna

• Mr. Ashok Mondal - Co-ordinator (East & North-East Zone), Design Clinic Schemes for MSMEs, NID, Kolkata

• Mr. Sudev Mondal - Associate Designer (East & North-East Zone), Design Clinic Schemes for MSMEs, NID, Kolkata

• Each and every participant of the survey and workshop, and the welcoming people of Arrah, Bihar.

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C O N T E N T S :PART 1 : NEED ASSESMENT SURVEY ............ pages 8 to 100

1. About DCS for MSMEs .................................................................................................................... 82. About NID .......................................................................................................................................... 103. About PRITAM SAHA, Design Consultant ............................................................................... 114. About Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusadhan Sansthan .................................................... 125. About Arrah, Bihar .......................................................................................................................... 136. About Applique ............................................................................................................................... 16

7. Objective of DESIGN AWARENESS PROGRAMME ................................................................. 198. NEED ASSESMENT SURVEY ........................................................................................................... 209. CLUSTER STUDY ................................................................................................................................ 2410. UNIT STUDY ..................................................................................................................................... 2911. UNITS 1 to 20 ................................................................................................................................... 30

12. SWOT Analysis of Applique Cluster, Arrah, Bhojpur District, Bihar .............................. 7013. DESIGN INSIGHTS: FINDINGS & RECCOMENDATIONS from NAS .................................. 74

PART 2 : DESIGN CLININC WORKSHOP ............ pages 101 to 145

14. DESIGN CLININC WORKSHOP : PURPOSE ............................................................................. 10215. DESIGN CLININC WORKSHOP : SCHEDULE .......................................................................... 10316. DAY 1 to 5 ........................................................................................................................................ 105

17. DESIGN INTERVENTIONS Products/Design Solutions Developed ............................... 115

CONCLUSION ............ page 146

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C O N T E N T S :Design development at the Design Clinic Workshop, in the presence of the Artisans, sharing ideas on the DESIGN PROCESS.

NEEDASSESMENT

SURVEY

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About DCS for MSMEsIn February 2010, Shri Dinesh Rai, Secretary, MSMEs, Government of India in association with National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, announced the launch of the nationwide Design Clinic Scheme for Design Expertise to MSMEs, a unique and ambitious design intervention scheme for the country’s micro, small and medium scale enterprises. The focus is to support the development of globally competitive industries that will form the foundation for India’s future prosperity. The scheme targets MSMEs expected to become drivers of high-wage jobs and long-term economic sustainability.Any manufacturing/service enterprises defined under the Micro, Small & Medium Enterprises Development (MSMED) Act, 2006 and based on the limit for investment in plant and machinery/equipment for manufacturing/service enterprises as notified from time to time fall under MSMEs. The Scheme applies to enterprises within the clusters/industrial clusters approved by the DC MSMEs.Purpose1. To increase awareness about the value of design and establish design learning in MSMEs.2. To increase competitiveness of MSMEs products and services through design.Objectives1. To create a sustainable design ecosystem for the MSMEs sector through continuous learning and skill development.2. To promote use of design by MSMEs for developing products and services that are market led.3. To focus on building the design capability of MSMEs to enable them to improve business performance as well as compete in the global market.Key principles1. Adopting a rigorous, yet applicant friendly process.2. Promoting and disseminating design concepts in regional or local languages, which are understood by the MSMEs.3. Establishing benefits without overwhelming the MSMEs.4. Learning from other successful design-support programmes.5. Establishing systematic processes for design and product development in MSMEs.

The Design Clinic Scheme has been developed by the National Institute of Design (NID) for easy percolation of design thinking philosophy and maximizes benefit for MSMEs units.

The DCS is divided at three broader levels:1. Design Awareness Seminar (DAS)2. Design Awareness programme (DAP)a. Need Assessment Survey (NAS)b. Design Clinic Workshop (DCW)3. Design Projects (DP)

These activities are helpful in smooth transitioning to several levels of design intervention in industrial and business activities of MSMEs.

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The design awareness seminar is a sensitization seminar, aimed to create a platform for MSMEs units to interact with design experts, industry experts and academic experts to create awareness & understand of design methodology and benefits of design to MSMEs in their business strategy, product-service, process, operations and branding & communication. To take design to a higher level of manufacturing functions, it is very important to develop an understanding of the design scenario and environment at an early stage of conception for MSMEs.

The next stage of activities is the design awareness programme, focused on exploring industrial functions and activities to develop a holistic map of MSMEs clusters and units. The design expert/s generates design information about products, market scenario, technology, communication, research and development, and various industrial functions along with human factor study for ergonomics, safety, convenience, learning and skill up gradation through design research. The programme provides design remedies for identified opportunities through the design clinic workshop with the members of the clusters.

To strengthen and bring a long term engagement between power of design and the clusters and in order to understand the design needs and design problems of the cluster, design projects are identified during the need assessment survey and discussed during the design clinic workshop. Projects which require intensive design observation and interventions, can be taken up as design projects with the help of design experts. Projects can be related to design intervention in area of product/process /strategic areas where design can help in generating solutions and value for individual or group of MSMEs.

About DCS for MSMEs

Design expert addressing the Artisans on closing ceremony of DESIGN CLININC WORKSHOP, and initiative by DCS for MSMEs.

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About NID

The National Institute of Design (NID) is internationally acclaimed as one of the foremost multi-disciplinary institutions in the field of design education and research. The institute functions as an autonomous body under the department of Industrial Policy & Promotion, Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Government of India. Department of Scientific & Industrial Research (DSIR) under Ministry of Science & Technology, Government of India recognizes NID as a scientific and industrial design research organization.

NID has been a pioneer in industrial design education after Bauhaus and Ulm in Germany and is known for its pursuit of design excellence to make Designed in India, Made for the World a reality. NID’s graduates have made a mark in key sectors of commerce, industry and social development by taking role of catalysts and through thought leadership.

National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad is assisting the Ministry of MSME, Government of India, as a nodal agency for implementing the scheme. As part of the scheme a Design Clinic Centre and its regional centres are being set up to reach out to all parts of the country. For easy percolation of design thinking and philosophy and maximum benefit for MSME units the Design Clinic Scheme is divided at 3 broader levels. These activities are helpful in smooth transition in to several levels of design intervention in industrial and business activities of MSMEs.1. Design Sensitisation Seminar2. Design Awareness programmea. Need Assessment Surveyb. Design Clinic Workshop3. Design Projects

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0ctober 2010 to November 2011 :

Worked with fashion designer Ashish N Soni (http://www.ashishnsoni.com/), New Delhi, India, undertaking the following projects, for London based luxury label Vanessa-G, (http://www.vanessag.co.uk/), on design consultancy basis :

• Developed a range of Trend and Design Idea stories for FW 2012, with a range of Digital Print Surfaces for FW 2012 rtw range.• Developed a range of Trend and Design Idea stories for SS 2012, and designed a sub range for SS 2012 rtw.• Developed the SS 2011 rtw range (as the launching range for the Vanessa-G website store).

May to June 2009 :

Interned at New Delhi based design consultancy Cell DSGN Pvt. Ltd., (http://www.celldsgn.in/) working on projects for 11.11, Levi’s Red Tab & Levi’s Kids.

Work Experience :

Design education & awareness ;R & D - Trend and design idea ;Exploratory textile development ;Story/Character based clothing ;The Design Process -an astonishing journey from the grey material to a finished luxury product.

NAME: Pritam Saha | DATE OF BIRTH: December 4th ,1987 GENDER: Male | NATIONALITY: Indian | LANGUAGES: English, Hindi

2006: Qualified ISC (XII) from Julien Day School, Kolkata.2011: Graduated from National Institute of Design,Ahmedabad, India, specialising in ‘Integrated Textile and Apparel Design’.

Draping & Pattern Making (advanced);Fashion Illustration, Technical Drawing;Trend-spotting, Fashion forecasting;Textile Printing, Dyeing, Weaving & Sewing; Sketching, Photography (studio & outdoor); Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator, InDesign CS5; Corel Draw & Paint X5.

Personal Particulars :

Education :

Skills & Softwares :

Areas of Interest:

Contact : +91 8335929156 | www.prit-am.com | [email protected]/1 Sarat Bose Lane, Sarat Colony, Kolkata - 700081, West Bengal, India.

January to February 2012 :

Developed the SS 2013 range as the launching collection for ethical fashion brand Maku Textile Pvt. Ltd. (http://www.facebook.com/MakuTextile).

May 2012 to March 2013 :

Chief Design Consultant for the start-up ofRoshe : Handmade + Heartfelt Clothing (https://www.facebook.com/Roshe123), undertaking multiple design projects as primary creative & co-founder of the label.

June to July 2013 :

Design Development Workshop for rural artisans of RUDA Hastshilp Artisans Cluster, at Chohtan Dist., Barmer, Rajasthan with SURE (www.sure.org).

May 2014 :Design Expert conducting Design Awareness Programme (NAS+Workshop) at Applique Cluster, Arrah, Bihar, organized by Govt. of Bihar in association with DCS for MSMEs.

August to September 2013 :

Visiting Faculty at Unitedworld Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, teaching ‘Fashion Studies’ module.

February 2014 onwards :Design Education Consultant at Inter National Institute of Fashion Design, East Zone, Kolkata.

About PRITAM SAHA, Design Consultant

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About Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan

Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan was established in 1956 by the Department of Industries, Government of Bihar in honour of Lt. Shri Upendra Maharathi who played a revolutionary role in crafts sector of Bihar. He painstakingly collected and preserved some of the most exquisite and representative pieces of Bihar’s handicrafts along with craft documentation processes leaving his creative imprint on them.

Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan is aimed to preserve, research and promote the various forms of Bihari handicrafts. The institute is continuously working on growth and development of crafts sector and craftsmen in an integrated manner by generating requisite knowledge, training programme and workshops for upgradation of relevant skills. The Institute conducts product development, research and training activities and also attempts to safeguard the languishing crafts of the state.

The key Aims & Objectives of UMSAS is :• Support Craft Production.• Strengthen Craft Marketing Initiatives.• Establish craft resource bank/ preservation and revival.• Outreach, Collaboration and Network.• Artisan welfare.• Consultancy and revenue generation.• Design and product Development

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About Arrah, BiharCountry : IndiaState : BiharDistrict : BhojpurGovernment • Type Municipal corporation • Body Arrah Municipal CorporationArea • Total 49 km2 (19 sq mi)Population (2011) • Total 261,099 • Rank 184 • Density : 7,679/km2(19,890/sq mi) • Official : Hindi, Urdu, BhojpuriPIN 802 301Telephone code +916182

Arrah is a city and a municipal corporation in Bhojpur district in the state of Bihar, India. The name is also sometimes transliterated as Ara. It is the district headquarters of Bhojpur district, located near the confluence of the Ganges and Sone rivers, some 40 kms from Danapur and 58 kms from Patna.

Arrah is an ancient city with references in mythological stories and Greek geographical works. It has been a centre of attraction for Jainism with dozens of old temples and hermitages. It is known for the important battle (Battle of Buxar) in October, 1764, when Mir Kasim, Nawab of Bengal with the support of the Mughal Emperor Shah Alam II and Shuja-ud-daulla, Nawab of Avadh was defeated by the East India Company Army whilst Henry Vansittart, was Governor General, the key event establishing the British colonialisation of India.

During the Indian rebellion of 1857, a small party of British officers and Indian soldiers was besieged in the Little House at Arrah, by a band of armed soldiers under the command of 80 year old Veer Kunwar Singh, the Zamindar of adjacent Jagdishpur. They withstood the siege for three weeks until relieved by other East India Company troops.[2] Babu Kunwar Singh was the only successful freedom fighter of the rebellion of 1857. The British failed to defeat him. Veer Kunwar Singh (1777–1858), one of the leaders of the Indian Rebellion of 1857 belonged to a royal Kshatriya (Rajput) house of Jagdispur, currently a part of Bhojpur district, Bihar state, India. At the age of 80 years, during India’s First War of Independence (1857), he actively led a select band of armed soldiers against the troops under the command of the East India Company, and also recorded victories in many battles.

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The present Bhojpur (Arrah) came into existence in 1992. Earlier this district was part of old Sahabad district. In the year 1972 Sahabad district was bifurcated in two parts namely Bhojpur and Rohtas. Buxar was a subdivision of old Bhojpur district. In 1992, Buxar became a separate district and rest of Bhojpur district has now three sub-divisions - Ara Sadar,Jagdishpur and Piro. Ara town is the headquarters of the district and also its principal town. It is located at a Longitude of 83º-45’ to 84º-45’ East and the latitude is 25º-10’ to 25º-40’ North. Height from Sea The Bhojpur district is situated at height of 192.989 meters from Sea.

BoundaryNorth = Chapara and Ballia District of U.P.South = Rohtash DistrictEast = Patna, Jahanabad and Uarwal DistrictWest = Buxar District

AreaBhojpur occupies a total of 2474 sq. km. Main Rivers are Ganga and Sone Perennial Rivers are Kumhari, Cher, Banas, Gangi.

Total Cultivated Area (2001-2002) = (All four seasons) = 241,926 ha.Net Cultivated Area (2001-2002) = 177,275 ha.Net Irrigated Area (2001-2002) = 126,830 ha.Main Crops = Rice, Wheat, Macca, Gram.Blocks & Panchayat wise Village List

RainfallNormal = 913.4 mmActual = 1160.6 mm

Population - As Per 2001 CensusTotal population = 2233415Male population = 1175333Female population = 1058082

Sex RatioThere are approximately 900 female for 1000 male.

LiteracyLiteracy Rate Total = 59.71 ( without 0 - 6 age group )

Male = 74.78Female = 42.81

Literacy - as per Census 2001

1. Total Literate = 10,90,868 (total) 8,97,094 (urban) 8,97,094 (rural)2. Male Literate = 7,22,112 (total) 1,16,768 (urban) 6,05,344 (rural)3. Female Literate = 3,68,756 77,006 (urban) 2,91,750 (rural)

About Arrah, Bihar

Shivganj, Shital Chowk, a regular day at Arrah, Bihar.

Pramodara Diary Church at Arrah, Bihar.

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Society and culture :

Library :A. Jain Sidhant Bhawan :It has rich collection of books related to Jainism.Famous scholar of Indian Oriendtal Languages, late Prof. (Dr.) Nemi Chandra Shastri had contributed a lot to evolve this library into a research institute. He also edited research journal, which had an international recognition.

Films :Bhojpuri films have a far and wide viewership. Several film personalities from this region have made rich contributions to cinema. Mr. Viswanth Shahabadi had made ‘GANGA MAIYA TOHEN PIYARI CHADHAIBO’ in 1960 which is still today widely acclaimed. Mr. Janardan Singh of Ara made ‘PIYA NIRMOHIA’ with Jai Tilak of Ara as Hero. Sri Ashok Chand Jain and Mr. Laxman Shahabadi have made the film ‘GANGA KINARE MORA GAON’ in which the latter’s songs had been appreciated a lot. Mr. Jai Mohan of Ara was the villain of this film. Similarly many more artist have worked in films from this region and have made Ara the Hollywood of Bhojpuri films.

Musical Tradition :The musical tradition of the district has been rich since the past and is getting enriched in present times also. Mr. Laxman Shahabadi, Prof Ramnath Pathak and Sri Arvind Krishan of Ara have contributed towards Film songs and music. Ara resident Satyendra Snehi has written songs and Sarafat Ali has sung with Usha Mangeshkar and Dilraj Kauri for film ‘GANGA KAI GAON MAI’.

LiteratureBhojpur has a rich literary lineage. Munshi Sadasukh Lal, Sayed Ishautullah, Lallu lal and Sadal Mishra ara famous for their work in ‘Khari Boli’. From Bhartendu era Akhoury Yashodanad was as famous as editor and Sri Shivnandan Sahay for biography writings. Sri Jainendra Kishor Jain was well known novelist and dramatist. In Dwivedi era Mahamahopadhyay Pundit Sakal Narayan Sharma and Pundit Ramdahin Mishra were famous for prose writing. Acharya Shivpujan Sahay , great story writer, novelist and essayist,was from this area. In Chayavadi era Sri Kedarnath Mishra Prabhat, Sri Ramdayal Pandey, Collector Singh Keshari, Sri Nandkisor Tiwari and Sri Ramnath Pathak Pranaye,Prof. Sarvdeo Tiwary Rakesh were well known for their poetic skills. The list of personalities contributing towards a lot in literary field from this region is long.

SportsBhojpur District is progressing very fast in the field of sports . The District Sports Associations are actively promote games and sports. They are creating sporting environment for a large variety of games with the vitality, interest & involvement of the local people. The leadership provided by some leading name in field of sports and games had raised the position of Bhojpur in the state level and national level. There is a very beautiful stadium namely Veer Kunwar Sigh Stadium, at Ramna , Ara and an Indoor Stadium that has excellent Badmintan court and gymnasium.

Demographics :

As of 2001 India census, Arrah had a population of 203,395. Males constitute 54% of the population and females 46%. Arrah has an average literacy rate of 67%, higher than the national average of 59.5%; with 60% of the males and 40% of females literate.

As per 2011 census, Arrah Municipal Corporation had a total population of 261,099, out of which 139,319 were males and 121,780 were females. It had a sex ratio of 874. The population below 5 years was 34,419. The literacy rate of the 7+ population was 83.41 per cent.

About Arrah, Bihar

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About Appliqu�

In its broadest sense, an appliqué is a smaller ornament or device applied to another surface. An appliqué is usually one piece. In the context of ceramics, for example, an appliqué is a separate piece of clay added to the primary work, generally for the purpose of decoration. The term is borrowed from French and, in this context, means “applied” or “thing that has been applied.”

Appliqué is a surface pattern that is used to decorate an aspect of a garment or product. It is highly used with the Textiles industry, but lately is a key trend for make do mend items.

Assorted Applique products for the modern market, sourced from various e commerce sites across the internet.

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About Appliqu�Cloth :In the context of sewing, an appliqué refers to a needlework technique in which patterns or representational scenes are created by the attachment of smaller pieces of fabric to a larger piece of contrasting colour or texture. It is particularly suitable for work which is to be seen from a distance, such as in banner-making. A famous example of appliqué is the Hastings Embroidery.

Appliquéd cloth is an important art form in Benin, West Africa, particularly in the area around Abomey, where it has been a tradition since the 18th century and the kingdom of Danhomè

Quilting :Appliqué is used extensively in quilting. “Dresden Plate” and “Sunbonnet Sue” are two examples of traditional American quilt blocks that are constructed with both patchwork and appliqué. Baltimore album quilts, Broderie perse, Hawaiian quilts, Amish quilts, Egyptian Khayamiya and the ralli quilts of India and Pakistan also use appliqué. In Pakistan, quilting appliqué work in the name of Islamabad Appliqué is very famous.

Types :Appliquéed pieces usually have their edges folded under, and are then attached by any of the following:

Straight stitch: typically 20-30mm in from the edge.

Satin stitch: all around, overlapping the edge. The patch may be glued or straight stitched on first to ensure positional stability and a neat edge.

Reverse appliqué: several layers of material are stitched together, parts of the upper layers are cut away, and the edges are stitched down. The largest cuts are made in the topmost layer.

Appliqué is also used for school badges.

Appliqué and electronic sewing machines :Modern consumer embroidery machines quickly stitch appliqué designs by following a program. The programs have a minimum complexity of two thread colors, meaning the machine stops during stitching to allow the user to switch threads. First, the fabric that will be the background and the appliqué fabric are affixed into the machine’s embroidery hoop. The program is run and the machine makes a loose basting stitch over both layers of fabric. Next, the machine stops for a thread change, or other pre-programmed break. The user then cuts away the excess appliqué fabric from around the basting stitch. Following this, the machine continues on program, automatically sewing the satin stitches and any decorative stitching over the appliqué for best results.

Modern fashion :In this sense,appliqué refers to using fabric shapes/designs usually on the trim of a garment. This can either be sewn or glued. Many appliqués are more often imported from China and used here to keep costs down. Since many designers use appliqués that are mass-produced, you can easily find matching accessories and such from competitive stores. Each store may carry various items with the same appliqué.

Artificial Leather Applique for luxury products.

Hand sewn details for reverse Apllique technique.

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Appliqué in BIHAR :

Khatwa is the name given to appliqué works in Bihar. Khatwa is about designing by cutting of one fabric and stitching the pieces to another fabric. Khatwa is mainly used to create designer tents, canopies, shamianas and much more. Making of such tents involves work by both men and women. While cutting of clothes is done by men, women use their expertise in stitching part. Khatwa is also used in designing women garments as well. This is where the real talent of Bihar people is seen in the work. The designs created are more sharp, intricate and highly appealing. Most of the garments shop sell these highly artistic clothes.

People in some villages of Bihar are involved only in art works and it is their main source of income. Since the same skills are passed down to generations, the expertise and innovations are immaculate.

Khatwa Applique work of Bihar.Khatwa Applique work of Bihar, combined with hand embroidery.

Actor Kajol wearing a Linen Sari by designer Anavila Misra, incorporating Applique work, an example of modern Indian product.

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DESIGN AWARENESS PROGRAMMENEED ASSESMENT SURVEY + DESIGN CLINIC WORKSHOP

OBJECTIVE of

The design awareness programme, DAP, is focused to develop a holistic map of MSME clusters and units by exploring through industrial functions and activities.

The design expert will generate design information about products, market scenario, technology, communication, research & development, and various industrial functions along with human factor study for ergonomics, safety, convenience, learning and skill up gradation through design research. Also the programme will provide design remedies for identified opportunities through design clinic workshop.

The workshop will help participants to understand the holistic scenario of cluster and benefit them with the support of design expert, for design intervention in opportunity areas explored during the programme.

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NEED ASSESMENT SURVEYfor Appliqué Cluster, Arrah & Awar Pul, Bihar

P U R P O S E :

In order to contribution in the development of DCS strategy for Appliqué craft, the NAS of the current and possible stakeholders in Appliqué Cluster in Arrah, Bhojpur District, Bihar was carried out.

This report seeks to put forward the efforts and activities of individuals involved in the Appliqué Cluster initiatives through the deliverables :

1. Analysis of the current- Location- Present condition of the cluster.- The product and service developed by thecluster.- The holistic system, of concept to customerapproach of the cluster.

2. Analysis of challenges- Appliqué Cluster business approach.- Craftsmen, shopkeepers, buyers, and otherimportant individuals who involved.- In context to process and production.- Moral values of the products.

3. Recommendations for addressing thosechallenges.- The future direction for the cluster development- Awareness of modern trends and market need.- Improvement in existing skills.

4. To Identify hard intervention to be undertakenin terms of- Improvement in the product quality, processand technology.- Cost competitiveness.- Diversification in the product portfolio.

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S C O P E :The NAS will conduct a value mapping assessment to better understand the limitation and design oppor-tunities for the Appliqué Cluster in Arrah, Bihar. This value mapping analysis will build on the study of the Local and global market place for Appliqué products and will clarify:

1. Competitiveness strategy (focused on improvedefficiency, improved quality/differentiation,or changes in demand)

2. The limitation and opportunities along the valuemapping, especially in light of internal conditionsin Vaishali District.

3. The design interventions required benefitingthe cluster including the workflow processes.

The initial survey started on 21st May 2014 and continued till 25th May 2014. Interaction with the artisans, visit to the individual workshops and manufacturing units along with photographic study was a part in this survey. Dates from 26th May 2014 to 30th May 2014 was reserved forDesign Clinic Workshop for Appliqué Cluster members.

D U R A T I O N :

D E L I V E R A B L E S :

Based on design exploration and research, interactivedesign study report must be submitted by design Expert to the concerned regional centre before the commencement of design clinic workshop. The report will highlight key information, issues and opportunity areas for design intervention in the cluster and help participating MSMEs to explore benefits of design expert help during the design clinic workshop.

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A P P R O A C H & M E T H O D O L O G Y :

This field study was conducted over five days periodfrom 21st May 2014 and continued till25th May 2014.

Orientation for NAS to the Appliqué Cluster :

The survey started with the base orientation onSatyanarayan Building, Mahavir Tola, Arrah, Bihar about NAS to the members ofthe Appliqué units. On 21st May 2014, there were personal introductions, discussionsessions about the scenario of the clusterand information about NAS Program were addressedto the unit’s members. Also how to reachat location, address of every unit members andphone no were shared in present of Units member,Mrs. Ruma Verma and Mr. Rana Ghosh.

Field research for Appliqué Cluster :

The objective was to investigate the artisan’s level of understanding and knowledge of theprocess of creating the end products using appliqué. In addition, their understanding of the business was also required to be investigated. Field research con-tain of quantitative and qualitative research of the Appliqué Cluster.

Quantitative research :A structured questionnaire was prepared thatmainly contained predefined questions, whichyielded closed-ended answers, like profile of themembers: age, education, the length of time theyhave been in the business, other business engagements,the kind of products they make, theirbuyers, etc. The quantitative research consistedof a total of 20 face-to-face structured interviewsconducted across at Arrah town of Bhojpur district, Bihar.

Qualitative research :The aim of the qualitative data was to get in-depthinsights usually rich and detailed insights aboutthe Applique cluster touch-points.The questions and the discussions were designedon the spot, rather than predefined questions andtheir order. The discussions were targeted toyield more of self/ thematic responses. The discussionsrevolved around themes like member’sday-to-day activities, the living conditions, difficultiesin their business, issues with local dealers,family issues, financial issues, educational facilities,etc.

Use of Internet :Basic anthropological, botanical, geographical,commercial and sociological information searchrelated to Applique Cluster was collected using the Internet.

Artisans of one of the cluster units being interviewed by the Design Expert,the most important part of the NEED ASSESMENT SURVEY.

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CLUSTER STUDYMacro Level Analysis of Applique Cluster,

Arrah, Bhojpur District, Bihar

CLUSTER INFORMATION : Applique Cluster at Arrah, Bhojpur District, Bihar, is a micro level cluster consisting of 20 to 25 active units woirking on applique, with a total artisan strength of 35 to 40 artisans. Though it is primarily an applique cluster, the units also practice hand embroidery and tailoring alongside applique.

NO. OF UNITS : 20 NO. OF ARTISANS : 35 to 40 AREA : Within 4 km radius of Mahavir Tola, located at centre of Arrah Town. KEY TECHNIQUES : APPLIQUE, HAND-EMBROIDERY, TAILORING PRODUCTS : BED SETS, HOME FURNISHINGS, WOMEN’s GARMENTS, etc.

Sadar Hospital, Arrah Town, Arrah, Bihar A busy road at Arrah Town, Arrah, Bihar

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Arrah, Bhojpur District, Bihar

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION : Arrah is a city and a municipal corporation in Bhojpur district in the state of Bihar, India. It is the district headquarters of Bhojpur district, located near the confluence of the Ganges and Sone rivers, some 40 kms from Danapur and 58 kms from Patna.

LOCATION CO-ORDINATES : 25.34°N 84.40°E AREA : 49 sq. kms ELEVATION : 190m (620 ft.)

ON THE MAP

SHIVGANJ / SHITAL TOLA

15 CLUSTER UNITS

PAKRI CHOWK

2 CLUSTER UNITS

BHALUHIPUR & WALIGANJ

3 CLUSTER UNITS

MAHAVIR TOLA

TRAINING CENTRE/ VENUE FOR WORKSHOP

page: 26

ECONOMY :In 2006 the Indian government named Bhojpur one of the country’s 250 most backward districts (out of a total of 640). It is one of the 38 districts in Bihar currently receiving funds from the Backward Regions Grant Fund Programme (BRGF). Arrah being the administrative headquarters of the district is the nodal point for economy of the entire district.Economy of Arrah is mainly dependant on personal businesses of small scale, and the main service inducstry for the people of Arrah is in Patna, and a large number of people travel daily to the city for their jobs.

INDUSTRIALIZATION :After bifurcation of the old Shahabad district in the new district of Bhojpur and Rohtas the large scale industries generally fell in Rohtas district. There are, however, different types of small & cot-tage industries other than some agro-based industries located in the district of Bhojpur.The District Statistical Report shows that between April 1992 and August 2000, 1,085 small tiny and cottage industries were registered with the District Industry Centre, Bhojpur. Altogether the capital invested in these industries is Rs-869.19 Lacs, and 1858 persons are employed in these industries. There is an indus-trial area located at village Gidha near Koilwar spread in an area of 30–40 acres of land under the Patna Industrial Development Authority. A bottling plant of Indane Gas (LPG) is functioning for the last several years, providing employment to locals. The development of industries depends on the regular supply of power but the district gets very short supply of the electricity against the required energy. The industrialisation of the district badly hampered due to this problem.

Sone river bridge, enroute Patna to Arrah, is extremely narrow and the major cause for traffic blockage.

Roads at Bhojpur district, from Patna to Arrah, are comparitively wide and well constructed.

page: 27

INFRASTUCTURE :

Arrah town has both good quality and poor quality pitch roads. Narrow lanes and by-lanes are present throughout the residential spaces within the city, mainly where the cluster units are located.

The drainage system of the town is an open one which results in gathering of waste, and thus garbage takes a maximum portion of the roads.

The main means of public transport are cycle rikshaws, and shuttle Auto Rikshaws which ply between different locations.

CLUSTER CONFIGURATION :

The Cluster configuration is homogeneous andlargely dominated by the skill sets available withartisan in this cluster. All the units function on a JOBWORK basis, taking orders from a few existing organisations, run by mater craftsmen in association with the Govt. of Bihar.

MARKETS :

The domestic market is the major market for theseunits produced products. The pieces are also disap-layed in various exhibitions and craft fairs, mostly organised by Upendra Maharathi Institute.

Narrow lanes at Arrah town where most units are located.

Roads at Arrah town are in poor condition in specific areas.

Chaotic transport system at Arrah at times lead to traffic blockage.

page: 28

APPLIQUÉ CLUSTER

ARRAHBHOJPUR DISTRICT

BIHARUnits / Artisans

LINKAGES :

GOVT. ORGANISATIONS/CO- OPERATIVES

J O B W O R K

J O B W O R K

O R D E R / S U P P L Y

CRAFT EXHIBITIONSorganised by

Upendra Maharathi Institute & Govt. of Bihar PATNA & KOLKATA

fabric markets, textile vendors

WORKSHOPS & TRAINING CENTRES

LOCAL GARMENT/HOME FURNISHING RETAILERS

in Arrah & Patna

MATERIALSOURCING

SKILL DEVELOPMENT

page: 29

UNIT STUDYMicro Level Analysis of Selected MSME units practising Applique,

at Arrah & Awar Pul, Bhojpur District, Bihar

Applique Cluster in Arrah, Bhojpur District, Bihar has approximately 20 to 25 working units. The most of the entrepreneurs are from vari-ous communities with a direct employment of about approximately 45 to 50 artisans.

The 20 Applique units together demonstrated a perfect skills set, size of business and the complete positioning of their products and their position in the market.

The 20 units were spread over various parts of the Arrah town,Bhojpur District, Bihar. Shivganj, Shital tola having the maximum number of units, 15 in total. Waliganj and Bhaluipur area had 3 units and Pakri chowk had 2 units unique to applique. (As per the map on page 22).

The interaction was done with all craftsmen of the unit and the family members of the unit owners. A total of 35 individuals from the 20 Applique units were engaged in interviews and discussions. The clusters members included mainly artisans, their ages ranged form 19 to 48 years.

page: 30

U N I T 1 : M/s Renu Devi

Renu Devi showing her product portfolio from previous workshops.

Renu Devi with her daughter and other Artisans at her workspace.

page: 31

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Renu DeviAGE : 36 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 5 (Husband + Wife + 3 children)

ADDRESS : Renu Devi, C.O. Ashok Kumar Prabhat, New Shital Tola, Near Bus stand, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Renu DeviDESIGNATION : Owner/Expert ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 95760 58591

PRODUCT RANGE : Bedcovers, women’s garments, cushions, Pillow covers, etc.

TECHNIQUES : Applique, Taioloring, Hand Embroidery

NATURE OF WORK : High Quality, 11 years of experience.

TURNOVER : INR 2.5 lakhs anually (approx.)

INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. room, used both as workstation and a beauty parlour as side business.7 tailoring machines (mechanical).

EMPLOYEE STRENGTH : 5 (1 daughter + 4 others),and more are hired on requirement basis.

OBSERVATIONS / OPPORTUNITIES :

• Renu Devi is one of the only units with good enterprenual skills, and that has developed over a long time, as she runs a beauty parlour and cosmetic shop alongside her applique and tailoring unit.

• Space is one of the major issue for her as all the different businesses are operated from one single 100 sq. ft. room, which has no source for natural light, and is very difficult to do detailed work without electricity, which is very frequent on Arrah.

U N I T 1 :

Chaotic and crampled condition of the 100 sq. ft. workspace.

page: 32

U N I T 2 : M/s Guriya Kumari

Guriya Kumari working on an Applique piece.

Guriya Kumari showing her product portfolio from previous

Interviewing Guriya Kumari and her artisans during the survey.

page: 33

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Guriya KumariAGE : 21 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 7 (Father + Mother + 2 Brothers + 1 Sister in Law + 1 nephew)

ADDRESS : Guriya Kumari, C.O. Ashwani Kumar Singh, Shital Tola, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Guriya KumariDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 9801289817

PRODUCT RANGE : Bedcovers, women’s garments, cushions, table cloth, etc.


NATURE OF WORK : Standard Quality, 5 years of experience.

TURNOVER : INR 80,000 anually (approx.)

INFRASTRUCTURE : 120 sq. ft. room, drawing room of the house used as workplace and storage.3 tailoring machines (mechanical).

EMPLOYEE STRENGTH : 3 (3 neighbourhood friends)


• Guriya Kumari is one of the most skillful artisans, and she has developed a good skill set in merely 5 years.

• The key issue with Guriya’s unit is that Guriya herself has her head in too many things like computer training, household activities and studies, other than applique. To multi task in such manner the organisational skills needs to be improved in a big way.

U N I T 2 :

Drawing room of the house used as workplace.

page: 34

U N I T 3 : M/s Bibha Devi

Bibha Devi working on an Applique piece.

Interviewing Bibha Devi at her workplace/house during the survey.

page: 35

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Bibha DeviAGE : 32 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 5 (Husband + Wife + 3 children)

ADDRESS : Bibha Devi, C.O. Manoj Kumar, Shital Tola, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Bibha DeviDESIGNATION : Owner/Artisan on JobworkCONTACT NO. : +91 9308664794

PRODUCT RANGE : Bedcovers, Cushions, etc.

TECHNIQUES : Applique & Hand Embroidery

NATURE OF WORK : Basic Quality, 4 years of experience.


INFRASTRUCTURE : 80 sq. ft. open area in the centre of the house, 1 tailoring machine (mechanical), not used that often due to lack of skills.

EMPLOYEE STRENGTH : 1 (self )


• Bibha Devi is one of the few unit owners who falls under Below Poverty Level, which is a major issue for a family of five to sustain.

• There is no sanitation/toilet in their house cum workstation, and thus infrastructural improvements are a must.

• Her skills in Applique are also very basic, even after 4 years of working, thus skill upgradation through training is majorly recommended.

U N I T 3 :

A room at Bibha Devi's house which can be used as a storage unit.

page: 36

U N I T 4 : M/s Vaijanti Devi

Vaijanti Devi working on an Applique piece with the company of her curious daughter. Main stairs of the house, which is an ideal spot for her to work.

page: 37

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Vaijanti DeviAGE : 38 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 3 (Husband + Wife + 1 children)

ADDRESS : Vaijanti Devi, C.O. Avdhesh Yadav, Shital Tola, House of Jhune Prasad, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Vaijanti DeviDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 9631752854


TECHNIQUES : Applique, Machine Applique, Taioloring, Hand Embroidery, Hand Hemming

NATURE OF WORK : Good Quality, 6 years of experience.


INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. open area at central corridor of the rented house, which is a common area for all tenants, 1 tailoring machines (mechanical).

EMPLOYEE STRENGTH : 2 (self + 1 nephew)


• Vaijanti Devi is a skilled artisan in applique and she has diversified into other related stuff like machine applique, hand hemming, etc. to add to the business, which does show good enterprenual skills, but the turnover is less than a lakh and has been stagnant for some time, which is a concern.

• Another issue is the workstation, which in her case is the open common area of a rented house, and thus concentration at work would be lacking.

U N I T 4 :

InterviewingVaijanti Devi during the survey.

page: 38

U N I T 5 : M/s Rekha Kumari

Rekha Kumari with her sister, who is also an artisan at her unit, at their workplace. The open area of the house, used as workplace is quite well maintained.

page: 39

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Rekha KumariAGE : 24 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 7 (3 sisters + 2 brothers + 1 sister in Law + Father + Mother)

ADDRESS : Rekha Kumari, C.O. Sunil Prasad, Shital Tola, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Rekha KumariDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 95630 71241

PRODUCT RANGE : Bedcovers, women’s garments, table cloth, etc.

TECHNIQUES : Applique, Taioloring, Hand Hemming, Falls and pico fpr sarees.



INFRASTRUCTURE : 80 sq. ft. open area at the central corridor of the house.1 tailoring machines (mechanical).

EMPLOYEE STRENGTH : 2 (self + 1 sister)


• Rekha Kumari, along with her sister runs the unit, and has been doing so for the last 3 years, but the quality of work and thus the skill of artisans are very basic.

• Other thean applique she is involved in a lot of household activities for a family of 7 members, and hardly gets time to pursue her craft, and thus skills are not improving.

• Skill upgradation through training is recommended.

U N I T 5 :

Interviewing Rekha Kumari during the survey.

page: 40

U N I T 6 : M/s Wasima Khatun

Wasima Khatun working on an Applique piece.

Entrance to Wasima Khatun's workplace/house.

Chaotic atmosphere inside the house, not ideal for business.

page: 41

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Wasima KhatunAGE : 39 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 5 (Husband + Wife + 3 children)

ADDRESS : Wasima Khatun, Bhaluhipur, Choti Masjid, Near Imambara, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Wasima KhatunDESIGNATION : Owner/Expert ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 93861 31943





INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. room, used both as workstation and drawing room of the house.1 tailoring machine (mechanical).



• Wasima Khatun is an expert artisan in applique and she has been pursuing this for 12 years. But she has not developed this into a unit yet, providing training as well as emplyment to other junior artisans, which should be taken into note.

• There is a single source of natural light at her workplace, and thus work stiops when there is no electricity, which is a very regular event.

U N I T 6 :

Interviewing Wasima Khatun during the survey.

page: 42

U N I T 7 : M/s Afreen Bano

Afreen Bano working on an applique piece at her workplace.Afreen Bano's is one of the few indoor work places with decent source of Natural light.

page: 43

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Afreen BanoAGE : 21 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 5 (Mother + Father + 2 brothers)

ADDRESS : Afreen Bano, Bhaluhipur, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Afreen BanoDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 90970 78398

PRODUCT RANGE : Bedcovers, cushions, Pillow covers, etc.

TECHNIQUES : Applique and Hand Embroidery



INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. room, used both as workstation and bedroom.1 tailoring machines (mechanical).



• Afreen is one of the most young and enthusiastic artisan, and she has developed a good skillset in mere 4 years. She is quite dedicated to the craft and has explored its various possibilities, used her skills and applied that in her own garments as well.

• She needs to pick up a strong direction for the future of the unit, as their is a possibility of her dissolving the unit after marriage, which is ought to happen soon.

U N I T 7 :

Storage of material in packets on the wall as Afreen Bano works.

page: 44

U N I T 8 : M/s Shafqat Hassan

Hassan Manzil at Waliganj, Arrah, which houses 3 separate units, by 3 sisters.

Shafqat Hassan with a Hand Embroidered Bed sheet developed by her.

page: 45

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Shafqat HassanAGE : 22 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 5 (Mother + Father + 3 sisters)

ADDRESS : Shafqat Hassan, C.O. Syed Hyder Hassan, Waliganj, Hassan Manzil, ground floor,Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Shafqat HassanDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 98524 63420

PRODUCT RANGE : Bedcovers mainly.



TURNOVER : INR 1 lakh anually (approx.)

INFRASTRUCTURE : 80 sq. ft. room, used both as workstation and drawing room for the house.1 tailoring machines (mechanical).



• Shafqat Hassan is one of the three sisters at Hassan Manzil who run their separate individual units.

• Though she has good skills, she is not that interested in pursuing applique as a serious business for the future, as she wants to concentrate on her studies more.

• Future planning and organisation is very much required.

U N I T 8 :

Drawing room at Hassan Manzil which is the main workstation for Shafqat Hassan, is also used for parking their vehichle which uses a lot of space.

page: 46

U N I T 9 : M/s Shahista Hassan

Shahista Hassan working on a Applique Bedsheet at her workplace.

Shahista Hassan's workplace which is also a master Bedroom, has very low floorspace, leading to unergonomic laying of larger pieces like Bed Sheets.

page: 47

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Shahista HassanAGE : 19 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 5 (Mother + Father + 3 sisters)

ADDRESS : Shahista Hassan, C.O. Syed Hyder Hassan, Waliganj, Hassan Manzil, 1st floor,Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Shahista HassanDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 84097 31962

PRODUCT RANGE : Bedcovers and women’s garments.



TURNOVER : INR 1.5 lakh anually (approx.)

INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. room, used both as workstation and bedroom for the house.1 tailoring machines (mechanical).



• Shahista is the youngest of the three sisters at Hassan Manzil running their separate units.

• She is skilled and very explorative in nature, at times designs her own garments, bags etc. to carry to college, which is a good approach at her age.

• Future planning and direction is needed.

U N I T 9 :

Unergonomic laying of the bedsheet while working hampers the quality of the product.

page: 48

U N I T 1 0 : M/s Shama Hassan

Shama Hassan is the eldest of the 3 sisters, and the most experienced unit at Hassan Manzil.

Shama Hassan at her workplace working on a hand embroidered salwar suit.

page: 49

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Shama HassanAGE : 29 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 4 (Husband + Wife + 2 children)

ADDRESS : Shama Hassan, C.O. Ahmed Nawaz Imam, Waliganj, Hassan Manzil, 2nd floor,Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Shama HassanDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 95046 34516PRODUCT RANGE : Bedcovers, cushions, women’s garments, etc.



TURNOVER : INR 2.2 lakh anually (approx.)

INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. room, used both as workstation and study room for the kids.1 tailoring machines (mechanical).



• Shama is the eldest of three sisters at Hassan Manzil, and is an expert artisan with over 12 years of experience.

• She has been running her unit with good enterprising skillls and has managed to get a turnover of over 2 lakhs.

• She should expand her set up into a bigger unit, may be combine with the 2 sisters and form a bigger organisation.

U N I T 1 0 :

Storage space at Shama Hassan's workplace which needs to be properly utilized.

page: 50

U N I T 1 1 : M/s Laxmi Kumari

Laxmi Kumari, wearing a machine embroidered suit, for which she has placed the borders herself.

Laxmi Kumari wotking on a hand embroidered piece at her workplace, which is right at the entrance of the narrow passage in the house.

page: 51

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Laxmi KumariAGE : 26 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 11 (Father + Mother + 3 Brothers + 2 Sisters in law + 3 children)

ADDRESS : Laxmi Kumari, C.O. Satya Narayan Prasad, Shivganj, Shital Tola, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Laxmi KumariDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 85419 25889


TECHNIQUES : Applique, Taioloring, Patchwork.



INFRASTRUCTURE : 60 sq. ft. pathway, used both as workstation and entrance pathway for the house.1 tailoring machines (mechanical).



• Laxmi Kumari is a fresh candidate, with just two years in experience. But she has developed impressive skills in a short time.

• Major issue is her involvement in household activities with a large family of 11 members.

• A strong business direction and skill upgradation, through more time to practice is recommended.

U N I T 1 1 :

Laxmi Kumari, working in natural light, but the workspace does not permit proper laying of bigger products like bedsheets, which limits her business.

page: 52

U N I T 1 2 : M/s Guriya Devi

Guriya Devi in a embroidered saree, for which she attaches the fall and does the pico herself.

Guriya Devi finishing a bed cover, in an extremely unergonomic position, but she finds it more comfortable than regular sewing position, and the quality gets affected.

page: 53

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Guriya DeviAGE : 32 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 4 (Husband + Wife + 2 children)

ADDRESS : Guriya Devi, C.O. Someshwar Prasad,Shivganj, Shital Tola, Bhola ji ki gali, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Guriya DeviDESIGNATION : Owner/ ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 78704 465032

PRODUCT RANGE : Women’s garments mainly.

TECHNIQUES : Applique, Taioloring.



INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. single room house, used both as workstation and residence.1 tailoring machine (mechanical).



• Guriya Devi is new to applique, though she has been pursuing basic tailoring for quite some time.

• Hands on skills needs to be developed a lot more.

• Applique is more of a side business for her, tailoring being her main fortay, she may combine with other applique based units and use her tailoring skills for fininshing the products.

U N I T 1 2 :

Guriya Devi's workspace, which is a corner of ther single room residence.

page: 54

U N I T 1 3 : M/s Raginin Kumari

Ragini Kumari working on a applique piece at her workplace. Entrance to Ragini Kumari's house/workspace.

page: 55

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Ragini KumariAGE : 28 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 3 (Father + Mother)

ADDRESS : Ragini Kumari, C.O. Sonu Kumar, Shital Tola, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Ragini KumariDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 72774 82868

PRODUCT RANGE : Bedcovers, women’s garments.




INFRASTRUCTURE : 80 sq. ft. room, used both as workstation and drawing room for the house.1 tailoring machines (mechanical).

EMPLOYEE STRENGTH : 1 (self ).


• Ragini is very new to applique and is taking her training of the craft quite seriously.

• Workspace is a major problem as the room that she uses is the main drawing room for the house and work is disturbed on any one’s arrival in the house.

U N I T 1 3 :

Main rack at Ragini Kumari's workplace, which is quite unorganized, and holds multiple items, none related to her work.

page: 56

U N I T 1 4 : M/s Kavita Devi

Kavita Devi at her house/work space. Kavita Devi working on a applique piece for the workshop, the gesture is quite unergonomic, and cleanliness of the product is also not maintained.

page: 57

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Kavita DeviAGE : 44 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 5 (Husband + Wife + 3 children)

ADDRESS : Kavita Devi, C.O. Dipak Prasad, Shital Tola, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Kavita DeviDESIGNATION : Owner/Expert ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 93344 56566





INFRASTRUCTURE : 80 sq. ft. open area, central corridor of the house.5 tailoring machines (mechanical).

EMPLOYEE STRENGTH : 2 (self + husband),and more are hired on requirement basis.


• Kavita Devi is an expert artisan with 15 years of experience.

• Her’s is the only unit where her husband is also involved in the business, he takes orders from various vendors for the successful running of the business, and they together have managed to get a turnover of 2.5 lakhs which is commendable for a small unit as hers.

• Workplace in the open is a problem that needs to be looked into.

U N I T 1 4 :

A major area of her workspace is used for cleaning the dishes, and creates a non productive ambience.

page: 58

U N I T 1 5 : M/s Durgavati Devi

Durgavati Devi at her house/workplace. Durgavati Devi's workplace, the main bed room of the house receives inadequate amount of natural light as it is in the inner portion of the main house.

page: 59

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Durgavati DeviAGE : 48 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 5 (Husband + Wife + 3 children)

ADDRESS : Durgavati Devi, C.O. Santosh Prasad, Shital Tola, Arrah - 802301,Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Durgavati DeviDESIGNATION : Owner/Expert ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 86511 32853



NATURE OF WORK : Standard Quality, 5 years of experience.


INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. room, used both as workstation and a bedroom.1 tailoring machine (mechanical).

EMPLOYEE STRENGTH : 2 (Self + 1 daughter)


• Durgavati Devi has started pursuing applique quite late according to her age, and needs to develop a lot more.

• She has trained her daughter as well and they run the unit together, but lack in enterprenual skills which needs to be improved in a big way.

U N I T 1 5 :

The passage leading to Durgavati Devi's workspace.

page: 60

U N I T 1 6 : M/s Meera Pandey

Meera Pandey working on a piece of Applique at her workplace/house.

Meera Pandey's house is a three storeyed one, with her workplace being ant the central corridor, sufficient amount of natural light is received.

page: 61

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Meera PandeyAGE : 36 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 7 (Husband + Wife + 5 children)

ADDRESS : Meera Pandey, C.O. Dileshwar Pandey, Pakhdi, Satiwada Mor, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Meera PandeyDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 89358 827677





INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. open space, central corridor of the house.1 tailoring machine (mechanical).



• Meera Pandey comes from a respected family in the area and has better finacial and infrastructural background than the other units.

• Her skills are also commendable in applique and tailoring.

• She should use her background in a positive way to gain more local business and expand her unit.

U N I T 1 6 :

Main entrance to Meera Pandey's workplace/house.

page: 62

U N I T 1 7 : M/s Anjali Kumari

Anjali Kumari working on a Applique bed sheet at her workplace/house.

Entrance to Anjali's workplace/house, serves as a good open area for her to work in case of power breakdown, which is quite frequent.

page: 63

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Anjali KumariAGE : 27 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 3 (Father + Mother)

ADDRESS : Anjali Kumari, C.O. Alok Narayan Singh, Pakhdi Chowk, Near Old Post Office, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Anjali KumariDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 86036 24027





INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. room, used both as workstation and bedroom.1 tailoring machine (mechanical).

EMPLOYEE STRENGTH : 1 (Self )


• Anjali Kumari is one of the most hardworking candidate and has develop good skill set in just 3 years.

• She is dedicated to the craft, and wats to expand her business through this.

• Expert guidance in business development is strongly recommended.

U N I T 1 7 :

Bigger pieces like Bed sheets are laid on the bed for working on specific parts.

page: 64

U N I T 1 8 : M/s Kalavati Devi

Kalavati Devi at her house/workspace. Ambience of the open corridor/workspace of Kalavati Devi's house.

page: 65

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Kalavati DeviAGE : 48 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 7 (Husband + Wife + 5 children)

ADDRESS : Kalavati Devi, C.O. Mohan Kumar Kesri, Shivganj, Shital Tola, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Kalavati DeviDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 95721 18810


TECHNIQUES : Applique, Hand Embroidery


TURNOVER : INR 2 lakhs anually (approx.)

INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. open space, central corridor of the house.1 tailoring machine (mechanical).

EMPLOYEE STRENGTH : 2 (Self + 1 daughter)


• Kalavati Devi has high quality skill set and has been doing applique for the last 8 years.

• She needs to expand her business in a big way as the turnover, though about 2 lakhs, has been stagnant for a few years.

• She needs to involve her daughter more in business as all the marketing is not that possible for her at this age.

U N I T 1 8 :

Source of Natural light at Kalavati Devi's house/workspace.

page: 66

U N I T 1 9 : M/s Ruby Kesri

Ruby Kesri at her workplace/house stitching an applique bedsheet.

Main source of natural light at the workspace is throught the entrance.

page: 67

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Ruby KesriAGE : 29 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 6 (Husband + Wife + 2 children + 2 in-laws)

ADDRESS : Ruby Kesri, C.O. Sunil Kumar, Swapna Cinema, Shivganj, Shital Tola, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Ruby KesriDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 90978 32926


TECHNIQUES : Applique, Hand Embroidery, Artificial Jewellery making.



INFRASTRUCTURE : 100 sq. ft. room, used both as workstation and study room for kids.1 tailoring machine (mechanical).



• Ruby Kesri is one of the only multi talented artisan in the cluster who is doing both applique and artificial jewellery making in her unit.

• Her skill sets in applique are good, but needs more refinement in terms of quality.

• Focus in quality is very important to expand her business and should be introduced in the unit.

U N I T 1 9 :

Ruby Kesri at the balcony of her house, which she uses at times as her workplace.

page: 68

U N I T 2 0 : M/s Rohini Kumari

Entrance to the house has a very congested feel with wires going all across.

Rohini at her workplace, working on an Applique piece, on the stairs, which she find most comfortable to work on, but bigger pieces cannot be laid.

page: 69

INFORMATION :

NAME : M/s Rohini KumariAGE : 20 yrs.FAMILY MEMBERS : 7 (Mother + Father + 2 Brothers + 2 grandparents)

ADDRESS : Rohini Kumari, C.O. Sudhir Kumar, Shivganj, Shital Tola, Bijli Gali, Arrah - 802301, Bhojpur District, Bihar, India.

CONTACT PERSON : Rohini KumariDESIGNATION : Owner/ArtisanCONTACT NO. : +91 80929 69743


TECHNIQUES : Applique, Hand Embroidery, painting, sketching.



INFRASTRUCTURE : 60 sq. ft. open space, below main staircase of the house.No tailoring machines.



• Ragini Kumari started applique at a very young age and acquired commendable skill set in just 4 years.

• She is young and enthusiastic, and has skills in madhubani painting and basic sketching as well.

• She needs to pursue applique more as a business in a professional way, which is ideal for her at the very beginning of her career.

U N I T 2 0 :

Source of natural light at the workplace, and the area is not well cleaned with open wires and cobwebs creating distractions.

page: 70

SWOT ANALYSISof Applique Cluster, Arrah, Bhojpur District, Bihar

S T R E N G T H S :

• LOCATION :

• CONNECTIVITY :

• RESOURCES :

• GOVT. SCHEMES & ORGANISATIONS :

Arrah Applique cluster being located at the Arrah town itself is a big benefit over other clusters which are in more remaote areas.

Arrah is well connected by roads and rilways with Patna and Danapur which are just 58 and 40 kms away respectively.

Patna has a lot of resources in terms of Applique, and there is a very developed applique cluster in Patna, other than that fabric wise also Patna gives a lot of options.

Organisations like Upendra Maharathi Institute and various craft based schemes by the Govt. of Bihar are one of the key strengths of the cluster and proper utilisations of the same is required.

page: 71

W E A K N E S S E S :

• LACK of SKILLS :

• LACK of BUSINESS MINDSET :

• LACK of AWARDS and RECOGNITIONS :

The skill set of the applique artisans in Arrah are at a very basic stage and needs a lot of improvisation. Out of the 20 key units, there are only 3 expert artisans with over 10 years of experience.

There is a general lack of business mindset amongst the units of the cluster and that is the key reason they have not been able to move beyond jobwork and expand their units.

There are literally no state or national awardees in the cluster, thought few af them are skilled enough but they have never tried to achieve that level, and thus the confidence amongst artisans are quite low.

page: 72

O P P O R T U N I T I E S :

• DEVELOPMENT OF NEW DESIGNS :

• PREPARATION OF MARKET STRATEGIES :

• DEVELOPMENT OF CO-OPERATIVES :

• INVOLVING LOCAL BUSINESS PEOPLE :

New design development is one of the key opportunities for the cluster as the artisans are still at their initial stage and thus introduction to new designs will be adapted in a good way.

New market strategies are essential for the very survival of the cluster and for the artisans to move beyond jobwork vendors to product manufacturers.

Development of groups and co-operatives will help them share their skills and learn from one another, and there are a lot of state govt. schemes for such co-operatives as well.

Involvement of local market owners and other related people in the business is must, as there is a huge gap between the market and the artisans. The artisans need to know about ongoing trends with their help.

page: 73

T H R E A T S :

• PURSUING APPLIQUE AS A HOBBY

• HOUSEHOLD ACTIVITIES

• LARGER FAMILIES

• ELECTRICITY

• ADVENT of MACHINES & READYMADE :

A major threat to the cluster, as Applique is lerant and pursued as a household hobby, which ends usually with marriage.

Daily chores and activities of the women artisans leave them hardly with any time to pursue their craft seriously.

The families range from a number of 5 to 11, and for women artisans with 3 to 4 children it becomes very difficult to operate the business.

The biggest threat to the cluster is electricity, as Arrah receives very frequent power cuts, on an averge for 12 to 16 hours every day.

Advent of readymade and machine applique has degraded the value for handcrafted products in the local market, though they have a demand globally, but the artisans need to reach that market and be connected.

page: 74

DESIGN INSIGHTSFINDINGS & RECCOMENDATIONS from NAS

This section presents the principal findings and recommendations of the NEED ASSESMENT SURVEY, in particular, the priority constraints and opportunities for increasing the competitiveness of the Applique cluster at Arrah, Bhojpur District, Bihar.

The scope of design interventions in various heads are presented through images and notes, categorised under various sections as follows :

page: 75

Scope of Product Design, redesign, Product Development

I S S U E S / C O N C E R N S :

Existing products mainly traditional with high production time & less local demand.

page: 76

S O L U T I O N / O P P O R T U N I T I E S :

Design diversification into modern contemporary products and

newer techniques is a must.

page: 77

Scope of Technology, Modernization and Collaboration


Use of mechnical sewing machine, combined with lack of skills ends up in very

poor fininshing of the products.

page: 78


Use of finger guard for handwork.

Training in electronic embroidery cum sewing machine for better finishing.

page: 79

Scope of Research and Development &directions for future initiatives


Need to pursue applique as serious business opportunity, rather than an

amateur approach as a hobby, which is a common case in the cluster units.

page: 80


CO - OPERATIVES and other groups need to be formed to avail various govt. schemes, & artisans should be encouraged to take part in exhibitions and trade fairs by themselves.

PRODUCT BASED designer projects is a must, currently the units are only doing limited products like bed covers, etc. Modern niche market craft oriented products like designer sarees is a must.

page: 81

Scope of Innovation in Process &related areas for Design Interventions


The current process of creating applique pieces are efficient, but designs/patterns are dealed with as artworks, with limited options for multiplicity.

page: 82


Use of basic design tools like grids and graphs should be introduced to achieve finer symmetry, enable easy enlargement of paterrns and thus increase multiplicity.

Initiative needs to be taken to transfer archive of ARTWORKS to DESIGN LAYOUTS, for easier production in the future.

page: 83

Scope of Workstation, Tooling Design & Infrastructure & capacity enhancement from Design perspective


WORKSTATION for all the units of the cluster are the respective homes of the artisans, and they are faced with multiple technical and social challenges like electricity, hygiene, daily household activities, absence of work culture, basic tooling like tables, chairs, lights, etc. are also not availble in a few houses depending on financial status.

page: 84


Formation of COMMON FACILITY CENTRES (with basic infrastructures of threads, needles, sewing machines, etc. and required facilities like Generators, etc.) for artisans to come and work on their craft on a daily basis is vital for both production enhancement and skill development of the cluster artisans.

page: 85

Scope of Market and Competition study for Design advantage and distinction


The key segment of the cluster, being home furninshings (Bed sets mainly) have had lot of innovations in terms of Prints, which majorly rule the domestic market, and thus the value for craft is decreasing in the need oriented segment.

page: 86


Niche markets for craft products needs to be identified and delivered to.

E-commerece, the booming segment of the retail industry, needs to be used in a very effective manner.

page: 87

Scope of Training and Skill up-gradation of Workers/Employees


The cluster lacks immensely in basic design, production and most importantly, finishing skills.

page: 88


TRAINING WORKSHOPS spread over longer duration with regular ASSESMENTS of the artisans work is very much needed.

page: 89

Ergonomic and Environment factors


Machine sewing postures are archaic, and household enviroments are not productive.

page: 90


Basic machine sewing ergonomics should be followed for better finishing in products.

page: 91

Packaging, Logistics and Storage related Design opportunities


Creative packaging and proper storage arelacking as the units fuction in a jobwork basis.

page: 92


New creative packaging ideas can be introduced, to add to the handmade appeal of the applique products.

page: 93

Exhibition/Display Design opportunities


The key exhibitions that the cluster artisans are taking part in are mainly craft fairs, and the artisans themselves are not active participants in the business as well, which needs to be changed.

page: 94


Active participation in larger trade fairs where the artisans are not only able to sell, but learn a lot from interaction with other participants.

Organisation of conceptual exhibitions for craft products in galleries should be a modern direction to the industry, focussing more on the art and design value of the product.

page: 95

To reduce rejections, wastages in material, process, resources and the drudgery in labor


Most of the applique patterns are cut out from single piece of fabric, with the negative space going entirely waste.

page: 96


Introduction to newer modern designs that makes use of fabric shreds in various colours, is the key solution to reduce wastage, it would also diversify the product portfolio.

page: 97

Visual identity and Branding from Communication Design point of view


There is no visual identity for the artisans or the products as they mostly work on jobwork basis for other clients. The handmade tag needs to be added to the products to place them in the right market, and add ethical value to the effort of the artisans.

page: 98


aa aARRAHAPPLIQUE

ARRAHAPPLIQUE

ARRAHAPPLIQUE

Handmade in BiharHandmade in Bihar Handmade in Bihar

Handmade in Bihar could be a very essential movement for the craft products in the state, especially for the Applique Cluster.

The products should be identifiable by their branding, as suggested above, even the ones which are supplied to other clients should carry the identity tag to make a wider market appeal.

page: 99

Inter cluster communication


Bihar has about 7 active APPLIQUE cluters (Chanari, Patna, Bidupur, Dighwara, Samastipur, Dandkhori, Darbhanga) , all connected efficiently to Arrah, the nearest one being in Patna, which is also the most experienced one in terms of work quality. But there are no inter cluter linkages between them, which could enhance skill development and productivity.

Bihar has lot of active clusters in other textile crafts as well.

Main textile ones other than Apllique are of SUJANI EMBROIDERY ( mainly quilts, nearest cluster : Muzaffarpur ), KASIDA EMBROIDERY ( hand embroidery, nearest cluster : Patna ) and BLOCK PRINTING ( hand block printing, nearest cluster : Patna ). These clusters should communicate amongst each other making a demand-supply chain for both raw materials and finished products.

page: 100


NEW DESIGNS that would efficently combine more than one craft and integrate multiple values into the final product (eg. Applique products using madhubani painted textile materials, with block print as the base, and finished with Sujani/kashida) is the way to the future.

APPLIQUÉ

CO - ORDINATION in sourcing and finishing products.

COLLABORATIONopportunities

DESIGN CLININC

WORKSHOP

page: 102

DESIGN CLINIC WORKSHOPfor Applique Cluster, Arrah & Awar Pul, Bihar

P U R P O S E :Post a successful Completion of the Need Assesment Survey, a 5 day Design Clininc Workshop was held for the cluster arti-sans, the key purpose of which was to :

• Share overall understandings, insights and opportunities identified throughthe survey and discuss possible remedial solutions•Identifying opportunity areas in their respective units and cluster with the help of interactive design study insights.• Expose participants to the benefits and elements of design• Case study presentations• Expert lecturers• Train participants to the creative problem solving techniques• Hands on exercises• Design Clinic and Suggestions of Remedial Steps/ Solutions• Help in providing on the spot design solutions to problems taken up by participants from their respective backgrounds of products, process, com-munication and design strategy.

page: 103

Design development at the Design Clinic Workshop, Explaining the artisans about the proprotion of the motifs, a very important factor of applique products.

page: 104

S C H E D U L E :The Design Clininc Workshop was held from 26th to 30th May 2014, and the Daywise activities were mainly scheduled as follows :

DAY 1: INAUGURATION CEREMONY LECTURES by INVITED GUESTS PRESENTATION ON BASIC ELEMENTS OF DESIGN by Design Expert

DAY 2: DESIGN DEVELOPMENT : • SHAPES + STRIPES + CHECKS in Appliqué utilizing waste Fabric Shreds.

DAY 3: DESIGN DEVELOPMENT : • Interpretation of IMAGES + LANDSCAPES into Appliqué • FUN FORMS with Appliqué

DAY 4: DESIGN DEVELOPMENT : • 3D Appliqué + NEW TECHNIQUES + Combination of other techniques in Appliqué based products.

DAY 5: CLOSING CEREMONY DISPLAY of PRODUCTS DEVELOPED DISTRIBUTION of CERTIFICATES

page: 105

D AY 1 :

Ribbon Cutting at the inauguration ceremony by Mr. Ashok Mondal and Mr. Ashok Kumar Sinha.

Inaururation ceremony in presence of the invited guests who were :• Mr. Ashok Mondal,Co-ordinator(East and North-East Zone), DCS for MSMEs, NID, Kolkata.• Mr. Ashok Kumar Sinha,Deputy Development Officer, Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan, Patna• Mr. Rajan Kumar Upadhyay,GM. Directorate of Industry and Commerce, Bhojpur

26th May 2014, at Satyanarayan Bhawan, Mahavir Tola, Arrah, Bihar

page: 106

D AY 1 :

Snap shots of the presentation on Basic Design Principles and Modern Applique products given on day1 of the workshop by the Design Expert.

page: 107

D AY 2 :

Various DESIGN DEVELOPMENT activities with the key theme of - • SHAPES + STRIPES + CHECKS in Appliqué utilizing waste Fabric Shreds.

page: 108

D AY 2 :

Various DESIGN DEVELOPMENT activities with the key theme of - • SHAPES + STRIPES + CHECKS in Appliqué utilizing waste Fabric Shreds.

page: 109

D AY 3 :

Various DESIGN DEVELOPMENT activities with the key theme of - • Interpretation of IMAGES + LANDSCAPES into Appliqué, • FUN FORMS with Appliqué

page: 110

D AY 3 :

Various DESIGN DEVELOPMENT activities with the key theme of - • Interpretation of IMAGES + LANDSCAPES into Appliqué, • FUN FORMS with Appliqué

page: 111

D AY 4 :

Various DESIGN DEVELOPMENT activities with the key theme of - • 3D Appliqué + NEW TECHNIQUES + Combination of other techniques in Appliqué based products.

page: 112

D AY 4 :

Various DESIGN DEVELOPMENT activities with the key theme of - • 3D Appliqué + NEW TECHNIQUES + Combination of other techniques in Appliqué based products.

page: 113

D AY 5 :

Handing over of the certificate to workshop participant Ruby Kesri, by invited guest Mr. Rajan Kumar Upadhyay

Closing ceremony in presence of the invited guests who were :• Mr. Amresh Kumar,Renowned Sculptor, Bihar• Mr. Ashok Kumar Sinha,Deputy Development Officer, Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan, Patna• Mr. Rajan Kumar Upadhyay,GM. Directorate of Industry and Commerce, Bhojpur

30th May 2014, at Baldev Sahu DAV Public School, Mill Road, Arrah.

page: 114

D AY 5 :

Display of the developed products at DAV school campus, for the closing ceremony.

page: 115

D E S I G N I N T E R V E N T I O N S :Products/Design Solutions Developed during the workshop

The key aim of the 5 day Design Clininc Workshop was to train the artisans into newer areas of design development and introduce them to the design process which is required for development of high quality products. In other words, provide design solutions using the existing skill set and finding wider and newer range of products through the same.

Basic findings and reccomendations of the survey could be boiled down to Lack of Business mindset, lack of interest in pursuing applique seriously amidst all household activities.

The primary DESIGN SOLUTION : Make/design new products which are both interesting for the artisan to create, has very low production time and easy to sell in the modern market which was the main goal for the workshop.

In 5 days, a total of 34 new products were developed using applique, which ranged from women's T-shirts, women's jackes, kurtis, cushion cover sets, bags, laptopsleeeves and folders.

The products are presented as follows :

page: 116

PRO

DU

CT 1

: •

Mon

soon

T-sh

irtD

ESIG

N S

OLU

TIO

NS

: • W

aste

fabr

ic sh

reds

use

d fo

r app

lique

.• N

ew sk

ill o

f stit

chin

g on

kni

ts a

cqui

red.

page: 117

PRO

DU

CT 2

: •

Stai

rway

T-sh

irtD

ESIG

N S

OLU

TIO

NS

: • W

aste

fabr

ic sh

reds

use

d fo

r app

lique

.• N

ew sk

ill o

f stit

chin

g on

kni

ts a

cqui

red.

page: 118

PRO

DU

CT 3

: •

Sung

lass

es &

Mou

stac

he T-

shirt

DES

IGN

SO

LUTI

ON

S :

• Was

te fa

bric

shre

ds u

sed

for a

ppliq

ue.

• New

skill

of s

titch

ing

on k

nits

acq

uire

d.

page: 119

PRO

DU

CT 4

: •

Tech

ie T-

shirt

DES

IGN

SO

LUTI

ON

S :

• Was

te fa

bric

shre

ds u

sed

for a

ppliq

ue.

• New

skill

of s

titch

ing

on k

nits

acq

uire

d.

page: 120

PRO

DU

CT 5

: •

Rhom

bus a

nd c

ircle

T-sh

irt.

DES

IGN

SO

LUTI

ON

S :

• Was

te fa

bric

shre

ds u

sed

for a

ppliq

ue.

• New

skill

of s

titch

ing

on k

nits

acq

uire

d.

page: 121

PRODUCT 6 : • Tree Sihouette Sleeveless JacketDESIGN SOLUTIONS : • Waste fabric shreds used for applique.• New finishing techniques derived.

page: 122

PRODUCT 7 : • Random Blocks Sleeveless JacketDESIGN SOLUTIONS : • Waste fabric shreds used for applique.• New finishing techniques derived.

page: 123

PRODUCT 8 : • Eyes & Whiskers Sleeveless JacketDESIGN SOLUTIONS : • Fun Form interpreted in applique.• New finishing techniques derived.

page: 124

PRODUCT 9 : • Triangle Stripe Sleeveless JacketDESIGN SOLUTIONS : • Simple geometrical forms used, very low production time achieved.• New finishing techniques derived.

page: 125

PRODUCT 10 : • Strawberry Sleeveless TopDESIGN SOLUTIONS : • New technique of double side finished applique tassels used.• Hand emroidery combined with applique.

page: 126

PRODUCT 11 : • Floral Sleeveless KurtiDESIGN SOLUTIONS : • Simple yet traditional, for the local market.• Applique combined with beadwork.

page: 127

PRODUCT 12 : • Bird sleeveless kurtiDESIGN SOLUTIONS : • Applique with new materials like shimmer.• New finishing techniques derived.

page: 128

PRODUCT 13 : • Striped border kurta setDESIGN SOLUTIONS : • Combination of Applique and patchwork.• New finishing techniques derived.

page: 129

PRODUCT 14 : • Floral motif Angrakha kurtaDESIGN SOLUTIONS : • New silhouette explored for local market.• New 3D applique techniques derived.

page: 130

PRO

DU

CT 1

5 :

• Pe

n &

dots

A4

fold

erD

ESIG

N S

OLU

TIO

NS

: • W

aste

fabr

ic sh

reds

use

d fo

r app

lique

.• M

oder

n fo

rms i

ncor

pora

ted

as p

er u

tility

.

page: 131

PRO

DU

CT 1

6 :

• Ba

sic

Shap

es A

4 fo

lder

DES

IGN

SO

LUTI

ON

S :

• Was

te fa

bric

shre

ds u

sed

for a

ppliq

ue.

• Mod

ern

form

s inc

orpo

rate

d as

per

util

ity.

page: 132

PRO

DU

CT 1

7 :

• Pe

ncil

& lin

es A

4 fo

lder

DES

IGN

SO

LUTI

ON

S :

• Was

te fa

bric

shre

ds u

sed

for a

ppliq

ue.

• Mod

ern

form

s inc

orpo

rate

d as

per

util

ity.

page: 133

PRO

DU

CT 1

8 :

• Pe

n &

wav

es A

4 fo

lder

DES

IGN

SO

LUTI

ON

S :

• Was

te fa

bric

shre

ds u

sed

for a

ppliq

ue.

• Mod

ern

form

s inc

orpo

rate

d as

per

util

ity.

page: 134

PRO

DU

CT 1

9 :

• Sh

arpe

ner D

ust A

4 fo

lder

DES

IGN

SO

LUTI

ON

S :

• Was

te fa

bric

shre

ds u

sed

for a

ppliq

ue.

• Mod

ern

form

s inc

orpo

rate

d as

per

util

ity.

page: 135

PRO

DU

CT 2

0 :

• Tr

ee S

ihou

ette

Lap

top

Slee

veD

ESIG

N S

OLU

TIO

NS

: • W

aste

fabr

ic sh

reds

use

d fo

r app

lique

.• N

ewpr

oduc

t in

port

folio

, with

hig

h le

vel

finis

hing

and

cus

hion

ing

usin

g fo

am.

page: 136

PRO

DU

CT 2

1 :

• Lo

tus r

ain

Lapt

op sl

eeve

.D

ESIG

N S

OLU

TIO

NS

: • W

aste

fabr

ic sh

reds

use

d fo

r app

lique

.• N

ewpr

oduc

t in

port

folio

, with

hig

h le

vel

finis

hing

and

cus

hion

ing

usin

g fo

am.

page: 137

PRO

DU

CT 2

2 :

• Tr

ee m

irror

lapt

op sl

eeve

.D

ESIG

N S

OLU

TIO

NS

: • W

aste

fabr

ic sh

reds

use

d fo

r app

lique

.• N

ewpr

oduc

t in

port

folio

, with

hig

h le

vel

finis

hing

and

cus

hion

ing

usin

g fo

am.

page: 138

PRODUCT 23, 24 :

• Steam engine cushion cover set.

DESIGN SOLUTIONS :

• New technique of 3D applique using fabrics into crushed slubs.

• Assorted products, in sets are developed.

page: 139

PRODUCT 26, 27, 28 :

• Floral Chanderi Cushion cover set.

DESIGN SOLUTIONS :

• Using base fabric pattern as a

grid for applique forms.

• Assorted products, in sets are developed.

page: 140

PRODUCT 29 : • Polka dotted women's side bag. DESIGN SOLUTIONS : • New product in portfolio.• Re touching finished products with applique adding handmade value to it.

page: 141

PRODUCT 30 : • Rhombus chanderi womens side bag.DESIGN SOLUTIONS : • New product in portfolio.• Re touching finished products with applique adding handmade value to it.

page: 142

PRODUCT 31 : • Chanderi striped womens side bagDESIGN SOLUTIONS : • New product in portfolio.• Re touching finished products with applique adding handmade value to it.

page: 143

PRODUCT 32 : • Lotus women's sling purse.DESIGN SOLUTIONS : • New product in portfolio.• Re touching finished products with applique adding handmade value to it.

page: 144

PRODUCT 33 : •Printed stripes womens side pouchDESIGN SOLUTIONS : • New product in portfolio.• Re touching finished products with applique adding handmade value to it.

page: 145

PRODUCT 34 : • Beads & Dots womens side pouch.DESIGN SOLUTIONS : • New product in portfolio.• Re touching finished products with applique adding handmade value to it.

page: 146

CONCLUSIONThe joy of sharing, the immense amount of findings and insights from a grass root level, right at the origin of the production chain, and a cherished experience of a lifetime, would sum up the project.

Five days of detailed survey, a deep look into the challenges of the skilled artisans, recommendations and design solutions suggested for a sustainable future is what the first part of the Project concluded as.

Then followed the hyper active design workshop, with more than 30 unique participants, 5 days of creating modern pieces, artisans breakfast all their inhibitions to create something fresh was what the next part was like. The participants created over 34 unique products with various design solutions incorporated in them was a vivid example of the success of the project.

Most importantly the Applique Artisans at Arrah are now aware of the importance of the design process, and are immensely curious to take their units towards a sustainable future, which would be a primary solution to their basic lifestyle challenges.

We look forward to their successes.

THANK YOUPritam Saha+91 8335929156

[email protected]

need assesment survey + design clinic workshop...

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