nemaiah, the last mustangs valley

Nemaiah, the last Mustangs valley

The last wild mustangs of Canada have come to symbolizeone First Nation's battle over a territory in remote andpristine British Columbia's Chilcotin country.

Photos by Patrice Halley / LightMediation Text by Andrew Findlay

1725-08: The wild horses of the Nemiah Valley have come to symbolize the Xeni Gwet'in First Nation's battle over their territory in British Columbia's Chilcotin country. The Xeni Gwetin and a conservation group, FONV,have proposed the creation of a preserve to protect the last 200 or so wild-ranging horses in British Columbia from indiscriminating hunting and capture. The Xeni Gwet'in have recently won a long court battle over a

claim of title and rights over their traditional lands.

Contact - Thierry Tinacci - Lightmediation Photo Agency +33 (0)6 61 80 57 21 email: [email protected]

1725-01: The Nemiah Valley and the sacred Mt Tsy'los 1725-02: Wild horses roam free in the Nemiah valley, blood samples revealed an uncommon variant oftransferrin, indicative of Spanish colonial ancestry.

1725-03: Wild horses roam free in the Nemiah valley, blood samples revealed an uncommon variant oftransferrin, indicative of Spanish colonial ancestry.

1725-04: Wild horses roam free in the Nemiah valley, blood samples revealed an uncommon variant oftransferrin, indicative of Spanish colonial ancestry. In this captured horse blood a rare genetic marker

1725-05: The wild horses of the Nemiah Valley have come to symbolize the Xeni Gwet'in First Nation'sbattle over their territory in British Columbia's Chilcotin country. The Xeni Gwetin and a conservation




1725-23: In July the gathering is oriented around horseman ship and games on horseback. The Xeni Gwet'in are the only original horse culture people in Canada today. The 1/4 mile race, prelude to the Mounatin raceAugust event and other activities helps keep the small community together.



1725-15: Lightning sparked a forest fire that scorched over 29,000 acres of land in the Brittany triangle,home of the wild horses. During such fire, large natural meadows that provide forage to wild horses are


1725-01: The Nemiah Valley and the sacred Mt Tsy'los

1725-17: Biologist Wayne McCrory and David Williams are trying to stop the meadow fires 1725-18: Biologist Wayne McCrory and David Williams are trying to stop the meadow fires


1725-20: Conservationist David Williams is installing remote cameras to document wild horses passage.Williams, a founding member of FONV, Friends of the Nemiah Valley. owns a remote cabin in Nunsti Park

1725-21: Wayne McCrory and David Williams are documenting the meadows frequently used by thehorses. Biologist Wayne McCrory estimates that the 155 000 hectares of the Brittany triangle may host up

1725-22: David Williams was instrumental in helping the Xeni Gwet'in developping a wild horse preserve.He owns a remote cabin on the Brittany plateau.

1725-23: In July the gathering is oriented around horseman ship and games on horseback. The XeniGwet'in are the only original horse culture people in Canada today. The 1/4 mile race, prelude to the





1725-28: Chief Roger William with his horse Morgan and white blue heeler "Snoopy."

1725-29: Chief Roger William and his horse Morgan 1725-30: Chief Roger William commuting from home to work at the band office.

1725-31: Searching for wild horses near Mt Ts'yl-os provincial park. Xeni Gwet'in still capture wild horsesonce in a while for their own use.

1725-32: Horses are still part of daily Xeni Gwet'in's life and have not been totally replaced by theautomobile as seen in this photograph.

1725-42: The main attraction of the Nemiah Valley rodeo is the unfamous mountain race, the only race of this kind in Canada (here competitors are crossing the Nemiah creek.) Chief Roger William, an incrediblehorsemen (blue tee-shirt) wins most of the time.

1725-33: Douglas Myers, a Stone Indian horse whisperer is working on a wild horse captured in the valley.He will then deliver it to its owner.

1725-34: Douglas Myers, a Stone Indian horse whisperer is working on a wild horse captured in thevalley. He will then deliver it to its owner.

1725-35: Horse wrangler, Ian McNeil and the wild horse he captured for research, "Spanish Bob whichposses transferin, an iron-binding protein marker only found Spanish colonial horses. McNeil plans to

1725-36: Each year in August, in the wilds of Chilcotin country, the Nemiah Valley rodeo attracts olffashion cowboys. Horse races, bronco and bull riding and other horse related games make this rodeo as

1725-37: Bull riding is possibly the most dangerous event at the Nemiah Valley rodeo. The cowboy culturein now fully integrated in the Xeni Gwet'in's own culture. As a spectator said : "These Indians are real

1725-38: Bull riding is possibly the most dangerous event at the Nemiah Valley rodeo. The cowboy culturein now fully integrated in the Xeni Gwet'in's own culture. As a spectator said : "These Indians are real

1725-39: This young Xeni Gwet'in woman came to see her boyfriend compete in the bull riding event.Often a rite of passage among young native men, this is a very dangerous activity where many are

1725-40: Each year in August, in the wilds of Chilcotin country, the Nemiah Valley rodeo attracts olffashion cowboys. Horse races, bronco and bull riding and other horse related games make this rodeo as

1725-40: Each year in August, in the wilds of Chilcotin country, the Nemiah Valley rodeo attracts olf fashion cowboys. Horse races, bronco and bull riding and other horse related games make this rodeo as down to earthas a rodeo gets.

1725-41: The main attraction of the Nemiah Valley rodeo is the unfamous mountain race, the only race ofthis kind in Canada (here competitors are crossing the Nemiah creek.) Chief Roger William, an incredible

1725-42: The main attraction of the Nemiah Valley rodeo is the unfamous mountain race, the only race ofthis kind in Canada (here competitors are crossing the Nemiah creek.) Chief Roger William, an incredible

1725-43: Xeni Gwet'in ranger Harry Setah is patrolling the local territory to search for hose poachers onthe 155 000 hectares territory of the wild horses reserve.

1725-44: Xeni Gwet'in ranger Harry Setah is patrolling the local territory to search for hose poachers onthe 155 000 hectares territory of the wild horses reserve.

1725-45: Searching for wild horses near Mt Ts'yl-os provincial park. Xeni Gwet'in still capture wild horsesonce in a while for their own use.

1725-46: Mt Ts'yl-os a central figure of a Xeni Gwet'in legend keeps a silent vigil over the valley.

1725-47: Mt Ts'yl-os a central figure of a Xeni Gwet'in legend keeps a silent vigil over the valley. 1725-48: A bird's eye view of Konni lake in the center of the Nemiah Valley, with the Coast mountainsrange in the background gives an idea of the wilderness in the area.

1725-03: Wild horses roam free in the Nemiah valley, blood samples revealed an uncommon variant of transferrin, indicative of Spanish colonial ancestry.

1725-49: The Estern Coast mountain range reflects in a lake in central Nemiah valley. 1725-50: Chief Roger William racing Terry Lulua and June Cahoose during the mountain race event.

1725-51: The Nemiah Valley is surrounded by mountains, this makes it a territory difficult to travel too andexplains why the Xeni Gwet'in have reamained isolated for so long and thus protect their culture very well.



1725-54: 1731-1: The wild horses of the Nemiah Valley have come to symbolize the Xeni Gwet'in FirstNation's battle over their territory in British Columbia's Chilcotin country. The Xeni Gwetin and a

1725-35: Horse wrangler, Ian McNeil and the wild horse he captured for research, "Spanish Bob which posses transferin, an iron-binding protein marker only found Spanish colonial horses. McNeil plans to releaseSpanish Bob in the wilderness when research is finished.

Nemaiah, thelast Mustangsvalley.

The horse stirs and tosses its headanxiously, its muscular body chestnutbrown save for a white stripe runningdown the length of its snout like a couloirof snow. Chief Roger William adjusts thesaddle cinch in silence, slips a cowboyboot into the stirrup then hoists into thesaddle. A gust of dry air blows down thevalley rattling the aspen trees and causingthe pine grass to shimmer in goldenwaves. Overhead two ravens soareffortlessly on a thermal wind, riding upthe crumbling sedimentary flanks of Mt.Nemaiah before resolving into minisculeblack dots against the blue sky. Far below, recorded country music croonswhile an excited crowd of cowboys,tourists and natives waits in anticipationfor the start of the mountain race, themarquee attraction at the Nemaiah Valleyrodeo hosted every August by the XeniGwet'in First Nation in the heart of BritishColumbia's Chilcotin country. Southeastacross the valley Mt. Ts'yl-os, a silverytongue of ice tumbling down its north face,keeps a silent vigil over the proceedings.

If William is nervous about the mountainrace, it doesn't show; or at least he keepshis emotions well concealed behind mirrorsunglasses. The 39 year old Xeni Gwet'inchief has ridden his quarter horse Morganto victory in the legendary "mountain race"nine times. The only other competitors thisyear are veteran mountain racer TerryLulua, a steely-nerved young womannamed June Cahoose from Anaheim Lake

and a brash tobacco chewing Carrier fromQuesnel, whose constant chatter betrayshis fear.

Two weeks ago a band of 10 wild horsesgrazed lazily in this pasture. Among themwere three mares black as obsidian, twoof them each with a clumsy brilliant whitefoal, and a third one expectant, itspregnant belly swollen. Two frisky youngcolts pranced nervously about keeping arespectful distance from the stallion, apowerful light brown stud with a longmajestic blonde mane. Today the valleyrings with the bustle of the rodeo and thewild ones are nowhere to be seen,perhaps chased by the mid summer heatinto the shaded woodlands higher up onthe Chilcotin plateau.

In a thunder of hooves, the mountainracers are off galloping down the incline ata ludicrous pace, a cloud of dust billowingbehind and all but obscuring the riders. Afall here could be fatal for horse and rider.In 45 seconds the competitors aresplashing through Nemaiah Creek, and bythe time they break onto the grassy flats ofthe rodeo grounds Chief William has acomfortable lead. Lulua, soaking wet andsplattered with mud, has dropped from2nd to 3rd place after beingunceremoniously dumped in the water byhis stumbling horse. Spurring Morgan tothe finish line, black cowboy hat stillclinging improbably to his head, Williamand his horse are a study in grace andspeed. After one lightning minute and a half, themountain race is over and William casuallynotches up another victory, displaying thehorsemanship that is a source of prideamong the Xeni Gwet'in, one of sixChilcotin bands.

Horses and the Chilcotin - they're almost

synonymous. For at least 200 years wildhorses have been part of the frontiermystique and character of Chilcotincountry. Recently these animals haveemerged as a symbol of strength andpride among the Xeni Gwet'in; and also asa source of controversy. Wild horses havepitted conservationists, who believe thewild Chilcotin horse has noble ancestryand may be among the last mustangs inCanada, against the provincialgovernment and some local ranchers, whoview them as feral over-grazers, anuisance to be managed. At the sametime, the Xeni Gwet'in are embroiled in alandmark aboriginal land title court casethat could change the way First Nationspursue their aims in British Columbia andCanada, and wild horses have becomeemblematic of their culture and politicalstruggle. Fact or fancy - it depends whoyou ask? For the Xeni Gwet'in, wild horsesare simply a way of life. They talk aboutthem like you and I might swap detailsabout a late model sport utility vehicle. The Nemaiah Valley, scoured by theadvance and retreat of the continentalicecap into a broad U-shaped paradise offorest and meadows, is home to some 200Xeni Gwet'in natives. Flanked by 3000-meter plus peaks, the valley stretchesfrom the Chilcotin plateau 25 kilometersdue west to where it unfolds into emeraldgreen Chilko Lake on the Coast Range'seastern slope. To the north is the BrittanyTriangle, a mysterious sounding' loftyplateau of conifers and meadows boundedby the Chilko and Taseko Rivers. Betweenthe Nemaiah and Brittany scores of wildhorses range. Known as Cayuse by thenatives, these horses have and continueto be a source of stock for saddle ordraught horses, prestige and income intimes of need, forming the nucleus of aunique centuries old tribal horse culture

that survives today in this remote enclaveof British Columbia. Judging by Roger William's impressivetrack record in the iconic mountain race,nobody understands horses around herelike the chief does. Bespectacled,soft-spoken and slight in stature, Williamseems an unlikely cowboy let alone leaderof people. However he has been chief ofthe Xeni Gwet'in since 1991, when he wasfirst elected at 25, is fluent in his nativeTsilhqot'in and has proven to be a spiritedrole model. Equally at ease strategizingwith lawyers in a Victoria office tower ashe is riding the range with friends insearch of wild horses.

And when William says he was born onthe back of a horse, he means it. Up untilthe early 1970s when a gravel road wasfirst constructed, the only link to theoutside world was by team horse andbuggy along wagon trails for 100kilometers out to Lee's Corner on Hwy. 20."I used to ride around on the back of mymom's horse chasing cattle all over thevalley," William says recalling his earlyyears on the family ranch at the east endof Konni Lake. "I think it's something we'vealways understood. We can't afford to buyexpensive horses and we can catch wildhorses as we need them. If you have atough winter with no hay you can cut themloose and they'll feed themselves."

But where did these so-called wild horsescome from? Ask a Xeni Gwet'in and you'llget a response like, "They've been here aslong as I can remember."

Compelling historical evidence, mostnotably from the diaries of explorer SimonFraser, suggests that Chilcotin nativeswere accomplished horseman well beforethe first Europeans traveled here. Forexample on June 16, 1808, Fraser

recounted meeting natives on the banks ofhis namesake river who "were exceedinglywell dressed in leather and were onhorseback," just one of several referencesto horses made during the historic voyage.Research indicates that the ancestor oftoday's horse, eohippus, actually evolvedin North American up to 55 million yearsago during the Eocene epoch andmigrated over the Bering land bridge toAsia before going extinct here. With thearrival of the Spanish conquistador 500years ago the modern horse wasreintroduced to the new world. Anincreasing number of people believe theseremnant bands of wild Chilcotin horses arethe descendants of the Spanish mustangsthat once roamed throughout NorthAmerica by the tens of thousands, andmight have arrived here from the southerngreat plains through trade or naturalmigration.

Up until a few years ago the Chilcotin wildhorse survived in obscurity, fodder forcampfire tales and the writings of cowboyscribes like Paul St. Pierre. That's when arenowned bear scientist, with a knack fororchestrating successful environmentalcampaigns, and an idealisticconservationist started bringing them tothe attention of the media. In the spring of2001, David Williams (no relation to RogerWilliam) a founding member of the Friendsof the Nemaiah Valley invited biologistWayne McCrory to conduct a wildlifeinventory of the Brittany Triangle. McCrorytook on the assignment, reluctant at first,but it was a decision that would send hislife on an unexpected tangent. McCrorypacked his camera, notebook, field

glasses and two week's worth of grub thenjoined Williams for the trip into the logcabin built by FONV at an idyllic spotcalled Far Meadow, on a 160-acre lotsmack in the centre of 21,898 hectareNuntsi Provincial Park. It was like ajourney back into B.C.'s frontier past. Theonly way in or out was to follow a tortuousold wagon trail from Elkin Lake to aghostly homestead called Captain GeorgeTown, after which the road climbed ontothe Brittany plateau to a fur trapper's cabinat Upper Place. Eventually the roadarrived at the Far Meadow cabin, situatedon a lakeside promontory next to anabandoned farmstead built in the 1960sby the late, respected Xeni Gwet'in elder,Eagle Lake Henry.

When McCrory began his research hefound a vibrant ecosystem with a full guildof predator and prey. Using remotecameras and field observations herecorded grizzly and black bear, moose,white-tailed deer, coyote, wolf, lynx andcougar. And of course there were horses.After all, this is the Chilcotin and horsesare simply part of the picture, like Cariboofences and log cabins. That's why at firstneither Williams nor McCrory thoughtmuch about it. However, one eveningwhile sitting on the front porch at FarMeadow and watching the sun set overthe snow-capped Coast Range, McCroryhad an epiphany. Here in this unassuminglandscape of undulating pine forests andmeadows the biologist had stumbledacross something he had never witnessedbefore; bands of wild horses living inbalance with other wildlife in anenvironment that was, save for a fewfrontier relics, little altered by humankind. They are truly wild animals, highlysensitive to humans, ears like radarantennae that can discern the snap of atwig underfoot from two football fields

away. At the slightest scent carried on ashifting wind, they bolt and disappear intothe trees, vanishing so quickly that theymight seem like a fleeting apparition.McCrory was enraptured, spending hoursat a time concealed in thickets oflodgepole pine at the edge of meadowsobserving the horses. Slowly a fascinatingpicture of this ecosystem emerged.McCrory chose Nuntsi Park as his studyarea. Two distinct bands - the Chestnutand Black Stallion band totaling 25-27animals- were routinely observed. Therewere roans, grays, chestnuts andbuckskins and several of them exhibitedthe shaggy mane and long tailcharacteristic of Spanish mustangs. Theywould travel a network of forest trailslinking dozens of meadows, naturalpastures where they foraged on northernreed grass, Altai fescue and other sedges.During the long cold winter they repairedmore often to the shelter of the forestcanopy to feed on pine grass. Their socialbehavior was consistent with thatobserved in wild horses elsewhere. Eachband was led by a stallion that wouldfiercely guard its harem of 6-10 mares anddependent foals, marking its territory withcurious stacks of horse dung, known as"Stallion piles." The presence of colts wastolerated only until they reached the ageof around two years at which time thestallion would force the libidinous youngmales out of the band. "It took a while for the horse aspect tokick in. The iconic side of it reallyhappened when we saw the Black Stallionband. The science side of it took a littlelonger," McCrory says.Even Williams, who had spent years in theChilcotin, first with his father on huntingtrips and now as a landowner andconservationist hadn't really given thehorses that much thought. As he says:"They were always just part of the

background."In a report released in March, 2002McCrory estimated that in the broaderBrittany Triangle, roughly 155,000hectares, there could be as many as 14wild horse bands and anywhere from 140 to 200 individuals, in addition to the 50 or60 that range in the Nemaiah Valley. InMcCrory's view the case for Spanishcolonial heritage was supported by thefact the Chilcotin horses exist at the farnortheast extremity of North Americannative grasslands (the theoretical naturalrange of wild mustangs that dispersedacross North America after the Spanishintroduced them.) More importantly theyhad survived in relative isolation alongwith a rich complement of predators in anatural forest and pasture ecosystemMcCrory believed to be uniquely suitableto wild horses. He called this ecosystem a"mosaic of meadows."UBC archeologist R.G. Matson adds acautionary voice to the question ofChilcotin horse origins."There's no evidence that they have hadhorses forever as some people like tothink. It's only human nature to think thatway," he says. "But the Xeni Gwet'in aregreat cowboys."However Matson believes the argumentthat horses arrived in the Chilcotin beforeEuropeans did is plausible."There's a lot of evidence that theChilcotin traveled and traded widely andthey could have acquired horses throughtrade."

Convinced that the Brittany Trianglerepresents something ecologically, if nothistorically, unique and worth saving,McCrory and Williams approached theXeni Gwet'in First Nation government witha proposal: to cooperate in an effort tocreate a wild horse preserve in theBrittany Triangle. It would be Canada's

second official wild horse refuge, the otherone being on Nova Scotia's Sable Island. Canada and the United States havedivergent policies regarding wild horses. In1971, after widespread public outcry overthe wholesale slaughter of wild horses, theU.S. Congress passed the WildFree-Ranging Horse and Burro Actmaking it illegal to kill horses on publicland. Canada lacks similar legislationprotecting free-ranging horses and insome jurisdictions the capture andslaughter of wild horses is still condoned,and even encouraged. As recent as theearly 1980s, the Ministry of Forestsauthorized a cull of horses in the Brittanyfor range management purposes.

Lester Pierce, who has lived for 35 yearsat Elkin Lake on the edge of the Brittany,remembers a bounty when hunters werepaid a paltry $35 for a set of ears. Heeven took part in the hunt but says it left asour taste in his mouth."If the horse can survive, hell let themsurvive. They don't hurt anybody," Piercesays.

On June 6, 2002 the Xeni Gwet'inexceeded the expectations of McCroryand Williams by declaring the entireBrittany Triangle the Elegesi Qiyus WildHorse Preserve. Translated from theTsilhqot'in language, it's a mouthful thatmeans "Eagle Lake Henry Cayuse WildHorse Preserve." The declaration stated: "Wild horses are sensitive to disruption ofthe natural environment and theirpreservation and security requiresprotection of their habitat; therefore,disruption of the environment, includingflora and fauna, in the ?Elegesi Qiyus Wild

Horse Preserve, is prohibited unlessauthorized or consented to by the XeniGwet'in First Nations Government."

As part of the package FONV agreed tocontribute $18,000 per year to help pay fora Xeni Gwet'in wild horse ranger. In early 2003 more evidence surfacedabout possible noble ancestry in theChilcotin horse bloodline. With the help ofa veterinarian, McCrory and Williamsobtained tissue samples from severalhorses, including one aptly named"Spanish Bob" that was captured by acowboy named Ian Bridge the previouswinter. In total blood samples from threewild horses have been sent to Dr. GusCothran, a University of Kentuckygeneticist, for analysis and the results areintriguing. Dr. Cothran has tested DNAfrom 100 different wild horse herds in theUnited States. One gene of interest whensearching for Spanish colonial ancestry istransferrin, an iron-binding protein found inblood serum. All three horses have turnedup this blood marker - an extremely rareoccurrence according to Dr. Cothran."Thefact that this marker is so rare and we'veonly seen it four or five times in 100 or soherds is pretty interesting. The fact thatthese horses have been isolated for solong definitely warrants furtherinvestigation," Dr. Cothran says, addingthat he requires 20 to 25 samples to drawany conclusions about ancestry.

Clues locked in the DNA of horses wereadding to the case for conservation, whilethe idea of a wild horse preserve gainedmomentum and support from high profilephilanthropists like Robert and BrigitBateman. McCrory and Williams were wellaware of the horse's romantic appeal andits ability to tug at the heartstrings of thepublic.Then in July of 2003, nature dealt a

serious blow. Lightning struck the tinderdry forest east of Henry's Crossing,sparking a fire that by September hadripped across 29,200 hectares of forest,scorching close to 20 percent of theBrittany Triangle. When the fire was finallyextinguished that fall, the Brittany hadbeen dramatically transformed. Howeverecosystems tend to rebound from thenatural rejuvenating cycle of fire. Alreadylast spring fresh grasses pushedstubbornly through the blackened soil andit appeared the wild horses had faired wellduring the first post-fire winter.

Concern quickly shifted to the carelessactions of people. When the snows hadmelted, hordes of mushroom pickersdescended on the Brittany to cash in on abumper crop of morels, leaving behindquad and four-wheel-drive trails andcampsites littered with trash. In the eyes ofDavid Williams and McCrory the Brittany'sisolated wilderness appeal - the very thingthat makes it ideal wild horse habitat - had been seriously compromised. "If we don't get a lid on the access youmay as well forget about it as wildernesshabitat," McCrory says.

The mushroom boom also seemed tocatch the Xeni Gwet'in First Nationgovernment by surprise. In the opinion ofChief Roger William, mushroom pickers,many of them Chilcotin natives, wereshowing a profound disrespect for the landthey had fought so hard to protect. Whenthe band council started charging fees forharvesting morels, a nominal amount of$75 per month, it caused friction betweenthe Xeni Gwet'in and other bands, butChief William believes they were left withlittle choice. History shows that XeniGwet'in leaders have never shied fromconfrontation when their interests are atstake. The mushroom harvest was like a

baptism into the contentious world ofresource management.

In many ways the tiny Xeni Gwet'in FirstNation is at a crossroads. Other bandsaround British Columbia are closelywatching their aboriginal land title case. Ifsuccessful, how will the Xeni Gwet'inmanage their lands? Isolated for so longfrom mainstream society, a gravel roadnow brings a steady trickle of tourists inthe Nemaiah Valley to hunt moose, fish forDolly Varden in Chilko Lake or hikethrough the alpine meadows surroundingMt. Ts'yl-os. The band is weighing themerits of various power systems, fromwind to solar to a combination of hydroand alternative energy, which could powerthe widely dispersed community currentlyreliant on home-based gas or dieselgenerators. Among many band members,there's been a reluctance to connect to theBC Hydro grid for fear that it will erodetheir ability to control development in theNemaiah.

The Xeni Gwet'in are also still recoveringfrom the effluent of social ills, brokenhomes, alcoholism and drug abuse, thatflowed from the residential school systemwhen youngsters were removed from theirhomes and taken to St. Josephs Missionin Williams Lake and forbidden fromspeaking the Tsilhqot'in language. Todaysteps are being taken to reconnect theyouth with their cultural roots. Xeni Gwet'inchildren learn Tsilhqot'in at a small daycare, old folks come together every Julyfor the Elders Gathering, and at theannual "gymkana," young Xeni Gwet'inare schooled in the fundamentals ofhorsemanship. But if Xeni Gwet'in culture is going tosurvive young people need reasons tostay in the Nemaiah; more than just

romantic notions of galloping wild horses.Just ask Harry Setah, a man with one footplanted in old-time horse culture and theother striding towards an uncertain future.

A bracing wind buffets the BrittanyTriangle as Setah bounces across ameadow astride his Honda quad. Setah,55, has the enviable job title of wild horseranger, charged with the task of patrollingthe triangle, monitoring for signs of horsesand keeping a check on human activity.He stops his quad at the edge of themeadow that fades into the skeletalremains of a charred lodgepole pineforest, seemingly desolate and lifeless. Hedismounts then points to a collection ofsun-bleached bones, light brown hair andskin still clinging to what looks like a tibiaas well as a tail, lying detached and oddlywell preserved."Looks like a young colt, probably starvedto death," he says, kicking over one of thebones.During his patrols this spring, Setah hascounted four different horse carcasses.Winter can be hard on wild horses. Deepsnow and a diminished supply of grassfeed can weaken younger horses andrender them vulnerable to predators, anatural mechanism of population control..Like most Xeni Gwet'in of his generation,Setah is a former rodeo cowboy, hisbow-legged aging body now feeling theeffects of broken bones acquired from hisdays on the circuit. Among the XeniGwet'in, wild horses are legendary foragility and endurance on tough mountaintrials. On the one hand Setah speaksabout them in almost mythological,reverent terms. On the other, he refers tothem as you would any other resource

that needs to be conserved, like deer orsalmon. "They're not the best looking horses butthey're very sure-footed, can't be beat inthe mountains. And they're smart too.They know how to de-worm themselves byeating alkali," he says.Those that aren't coveted as saddlehorses are sometimes sold as rodeostock, or to the horror of equine lovers,others meet their end at the abattoir wherethey're slaughtered and turned into dogfeed. It's not pretty, Setah admits, but ifthe Xeni Gwet'in don't control horses thegovernment will. Most of the time, he says,they're simply left alone.

Since the completion of the NemaiahValley road in the early 70s, modernconveniences have begun to jeopardizethe Xeni gwet'in's traditional horse culture.Young people are leaving the NemaiahValley to find work and pick-ups andquads are rapidly replacing horses. EvenSetah spends more time on what hejokingly refers to as his "Japanese quarterhorse" than he does riding his steed. Andlike others from his community, Setah hashad to look elsewhere for employment, asearch that has taken him to the oil patchof northeastern B.C. every winter for thepast few years.

"I don't want to leave [the Nemaiah Valley]but there's no work around here," Setahsays, before hitting the ignition switch onhis quad and twisting the throttle.

Hondas and Chevy's may be the preferredmode of travel these days, but wild horsesstill have the power to stir the soul of anold Nemaiah Valley cowboy.

Afternoon sun gilds the summit of Ts'yl-osas Frances Sonny Williams gazes out onthe glassy smooth waters of Konni Lake

from his front porch, leathery hands foldedin his lap. An old fiddle leans against thewall next to his chair. Wild horses conjurehaunting memories for Williams; memoriesof something that occurred when he was amuch younger, agile cowboy of 38. Thatday he had spotted a prize black studgrazing on the grassy lower slopes ofKonni Mt. not far from where he sits today.So like any self-respecting cowboy,Williams saddled his horse and went inpursuit. As he ascended the hillsidecircling down wind, the breeze shifted andthe wily horse caught the scent, senseddanger and bolted for the high country.For an entire day Williams tracked theelusive beast, a patient game of cat andmouse, but with nightfall approaching thehorse was reduced to an amorphousshadow in the trees. When Williams cameacross a well-trodden animal trail hedecided to set a rope snare, a finalattempt before returning to Konni Lake forthe night. He would never see that studalive again."When I went back in the morning he wason the end of the rope. I remember thathorse so much because he died on me,"Williams says, shaking his head slowly. Abreeze ruffles the surface of the lake andWilliams shifts in his chair.

This is the kind of story that would mist theeyes of any horse lover, but for somepeople it's little more than a sentimentalfairy tale. Many in the ranching communityconsider wild horses to be an invasivespecies that competes with cattle for feed.To them the terms "mustang" or "wildhorse" are used erroneously to describeferal horses, those that were oncedomestic but were turned out to pasturefor one reason or another.

A few kilometers up a dusty road from

Henry's Crossing, Cliff Schuk grazes 150head of cattle on crown land in the fabledBrittany Triangle. He lives with his wifeand daughters on a homestead aroundwhich old engine parts and farmmachinery are scattered like museumpieces. His father bought this quartersection in 1963 and the younger Schukhas spent most of his life here. When hehears the words "wild horse" Schukshakes his head then folds thick arms thathang from his torso like tree limbs. "There's no such thing as a wild horse.They're not like a deer or a moose," hesays, emphatically.He doesn't necessarily advocate cullingthe horses, but believes calls forconservation are overblown.

The provincial government's environmentbranch agrees. "Our Ministry does not have a policy onwild horses because our jurisdiction isunder the Wildlife Act which does notrecognize these horses as wildlife.Because they were once domesticated,they are not considered wild the same wayas bears, wolves, deer and cougars are,"says Max Cleeveley, communicationsdirector for the Ministry of Water Land andAir Protection.However by the ministry's own definition, awild species is one that is wild by natureand is either native to Canada or hasextended its range into Canada withouthuman intervention and has been presentin Canada for at least 50 years. Giventhis, the ministry says it welcomes anynew scientific or genetic informationconcerning the origins of the BrittanyTriangle horses.

The BC Ministry of Forests, thegovernment agency that manages crowngrazing leases, has an even lesssympathetic attitude towards feral horses

and regards them as a voracious grazersthat sometimes need to be controlled.Over several days in February and Marchof 2004 the forest service conducted aerialsurveys and counted 794 feral horses inthe Chilcotin Forest District. One hundredand eleven were counted in the BrittanyTriangle alone, very close to the estimategiven by McCrory in his 2002 report.

Chris Easthope is an agrologist with theforest service in Williams Lake and hasbeen dealing with the feral horse issuesince joining the ministry in 1977. Hebelieves the controversy surrounding themis guided more by "emotion than fact." Inthe early 1980s Easthope oversaw thecapture and cull of dozens of wild horsesin and around the Nemaiah Valley and theBrittany Triangle. Some were shot, otherswere captured and sold. According toEasthope accurate records were neverkept."I don't use the term wild horses. I don'tbelieve it's an appropriate term. All thehorses that are running on crown rangeare feral horses," Easthope says, pointingto the fact that many "wild" horses in theChilcotin have visible brands.

Horses have often been disparaginglyreferred to as "hay-burners" because of adigestive system that demands copiousamounts of forage. Thanks to the shape oftheir mouth and incisor teeth, horses areanatomically well adapted to graze muchlower to the ground than cattle. Howevercharges of overgrazing by horses in theChilcotin seem to be based more onanecdote and rumour than science andresearch. Easthope concedes there hasnever been an in-depth study of their

impact on Chilcotin grasslands, but arguesthat his own field observations suggestferal horses can have a considerablenegative effect. For example once horseshave grazed an area heavily, unpalatableflora such as antinarium and pasture sagetend to fill in afterwards, he says.

These days, given the high profile of theChilcotin "wild" horse, killing them as acontrol measure might be a publicrelations nightmare, but Easthope doesn'trule it out as a last resort.

Life rolls along in Chilcotin country in thatlazy timeless way that it always has.Debates about over-grazing, Spanishancestry, wild or feral, don't excite manyXeni Gwet'in. They are respectful of butnever overly sentimental about wild horses- for the most part that's the job of urbanequestrians. Still it's unlikely that thecontroversy surrounding the mysteriousand alluring horses of the Brittany Triangleand Nemaiah Valley will die down anytime soon.

Back in the Nemaiah, the rodeo groundsare all but deserted. Visiting cowboyshave departed with their horse trailersalong with the tourists in rented campers. Chief Roger William rides solo along thebanks of Nemaiah Creek, bound for hishome at the south end of the valley a fewkilometers from where Chilko Lake's icywaters lick the shoreline. This is the kindof leisurely commute William gets tosavour too rarely these days, between thecourt case, his band council duties anddealing with the mushroom pickers in theBrittany Triangle. After arriving home, hetethers Morgan to a tree then holds out atasty palm-full of oats. The horse gives anappreciative snort and William sits on around of fir, tilting his Stetson to shieldeyes from the sun. In the softening light of

a summer evening, the jagged sky line ofthe Coast Range is imbued with crimsonand saffron, a smoky sunset from theforest fire that's been burning much of thesummer in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park.When asked about wild horses, about theflood of attention that has come to thisremote valley because of them, he shrugs.William knows that in the long runpublicizing these noble creatures can onlybenefit the Xeni Gwet'in."It sure doesn't hurt our political cause. If ithelps, then why not?" he says, beforeoffering more oats to Morgan.However he admits that the survival ofXeni Gwet'in culture and the spirit of itspeople may be intrinsically tied to thesurvival of the Cayuse, the wild horsesthat have been moving through the pinesand trembling aspens of the Chilcotin forcenturies.

SIDEBAR:

Though a shared interest in wild horseshas helped to build a bridge between theXeni Gwet'in and conservationists,native-white relations in Chilcotin countryhave not always been so conciliatory.From early clashes with white settlers totoday's court action, the Chilcotin peoplehave always fiercely defended theirterritory.

In 1863 B.C. was still a crown colony.Alfred E. Waddington, a school inspectorfrom Vancouver Island, was leading aneffort to build a wagon road from the headof Bute Inlet, up the Homathko River tothe Chilcotin Plateau. It was a fancifulscheme for a direct link between adeep-sea port and the gold fields of theCariboo. On May 1, 1864, motivated partlyby fear of small pox and threats to theirterritory, a band of Chilcotin led by the

warrior Klatsassin traveled down theHomathko River and ambushedWaddington's work crew in early morning.Thirteen men were killed in their tents,while several others managed to escape.Later that year five more white settlersfurther inland died in clashes withChilcotins and the history books now referto these events as the "Chilcotin War."Calling it a war may be an overstatementbut clearly the British government feared apossible native uprising against the crownand wasted no time sending a small militiato quash the resistance. Later that yearunder a vague promise of amnesty, thewarrior chief Klatsassin and four otherChilcotin surrendered in Quesnel andwere brought before Judge MatthewBaillie Begbie. They were promptly triedand convicted of murder and all five mettheir end on the scaffold.

Nearly 130 years after the Chilcotin War,Xeni Gwet'in elders, youth and leadersgathered at Henry's Crossing on theChilko River to defend their territory again.Instead of guns, this time they blockadeda road. For two weeks in May, 1992, theXeni Gwet'in prevented Carrier Lumberfrom building a logging road into theBrittany Triangle. This act of civildisobedience forced the company to putits plans on hold - an occasion that ishonoured every June 1 when Xeni Gwet'inmeet at Henry's Crossing for "TheGathering." Following the blockade theband entered into negotiations with theMinistry of Forests for joint managementof the Brittany but it ended with animpasse in the late 1990s. In 1990 theXeni Gwet'in had already launched courtaction to protect trap lines around Tasekoand Eagle lakes. Then in 1998 the bandembarked on a landmark court case,arguing for aboriginal land title to a regionthat includes the Brittany Triangle,

Nemaiah Valley and the trap lines -roughly 420,000 hectares of crown land.Opening arguments in the case, ChiefRoger William, on behalf of Xeni Gwet'inand Tsilhqot'in, vs Her Majesty TheQueen, were heard in March, 2003. It wasa significant milestone, the first aboriginalland title case to go to court in B.C. since1997 when the Supreme Court of Canadahanded down its historic decision inDelgamuukw vs. British Columbia.Delgamuukw stated not only thataboriginal title exists but that testimonybased on oral history can be used toprove title. The case hinges on whether ornot the Xeni Gwetin' had settled the landin question prior to 1846, the year theOregon Boundary Treaty was signed andBritish sovereignty was applied to most ofpresent-day British Columbia. At least onexpert believes the Xeni Gwetin' have asolid case. The University of BritishColumbia's R.G. Matson excavated aprehistoric lodge site at Bear Lake nearHenry's Crossing that dates back tobetween 1645 and 1660. Hence the XeniGwet'in trial, which relies heavily on oralhistory as told by elders, is expected tolast well into 2006 and is being observedvery closely.

Against this legal backdrop, wild horseshave been parlayed into a powerful andevocative symbol of Xeni Gwet'insovereignty, and the very mention of thewords has taken on a political connotation.Jack Woodward, of Woodward andCompany, has been handling Xeni Gwet'inlegal matters for more than a decade; solong that he even has his own Tsilhqot'innickname - "Dlig," which means squirrel.

"People talk about cowboys and Indians.Well these Indians are cowboys," he says,summing up his take on Xeni Gwet'inhorse culture.

Writer Andrew Findlayy lives in Courtnay,B.C.

Photographer Patrice Halley lives inWycliffe, B.C. He has been documentingwild horses for the last six years andtravelled seven times to the Brittanyplateau.

Captions.

1725-01: The Nemiah Valley and thesacred Mt Tsy'los

1725-02-03: Wild horses roam free in theNemiah valley, blood samples revealed anuncommon variant of transferrin, indicativeof Spanish colonial ancestry

1725-04: Wild horses roam free in theNemiah valley, blood samples revealed anuncommon variant of transferrin, indicativeof Spanish colonial ancestry. In thiscaptured horse blood a rare geneticmarker found in less than 5% of NorthAmerican wild hoses herds. This warrantsfurther investigation into their origin andstrengthens the case for conservation ofthe horses and their habitat.

1725-05-06-07-08-09-10-11-12-13-14:The wild horses of the Nemiah Valleyhave come to symbolize the Xeni Gwet'inFirst Nation's battle over their territory inBritish Columbia's Chilcotin country. TheXeni Gwetin and a conservation group,FONV, have proposed the creation of apreserve to protect the last 200 or sowild-ranging horses in British Columbiafrom indiscriminating hunting and capture.The Xeni Gwet'in have recently won along court battle over a claim of title andrights over their traditional lands.

1725-15-16: Lightning sparked a forest firethat scorched over 29,000 acres of land inthe Brittany triangle, home of the wildhorses. During such fire, large naturalmeadows that provide forage to wildhorses are destroyed. Then, mushroomsflourish, followed by mushroom pickerswho compromise the sensitive isolation ofthe horse's habitat. here a lone coyote is

returning after the fire.

1725-17-18: Biologist Wayne McCrory andDavid Williams are trying to stop themeadow fires

1725-19: Lightning sparked a forest firethat scorched over 29,000 acres of land inthe Brittany triangle, home of the wildhorses. During such fire, large naturalmeadows that provide forage to wildhorses are destroyed. Then, mushroomsflourish, followed by mushroom pickerswho compromise the sensitive isolation ofthe horse's habitat.

1725-20: Conservationist David Williamsis installing remote cameras to documentwild horses passage. Williams, a foundingmember of FONV, Friends of the NemiahValley. owns a remote cabin in NunstiPark where the wild horses roam.

1725-21: Wayne McCrory and DavidWilliams are documenting the meadowsfrequently used by the horses. BiologistWayne McCrory estimates that the 155000 hectares of the Brittany triangle mayhost up to 14 wild horses bands, totalling140 to 200 horses. There are another 50to 60 roaming in the Nemiah Valley.McCrory believes the horses are ofSpanish descent and they have survivedin the wild because of the unique "mosaicof meadows" that are part of the Chilcotinlandscape.

1725-22: David Williams was instrumentalin helping the Xeni Gwet'in developping awild horse preserve. He owns a remotecabin on the Brittany plateau.

1725-23-24-25-26-27: In July thegathering is oriented around horsemanship and games on horseback. The XeniGwet'in are the only original horse culture

people in Canada today. The 1/4 milerace, prelude to the Mounatin race Augustevent and other activities helps keep thesmall community together.

1725-28: Chief Roger William with hishorse Morgan and white blue heeler"Snoopy."

1725-29: Chief Roger William and hishorse Morgan

1725-30: Chief Roger William commutingfrom home to work at the band office.

1725-31: Searching for wild horses nearMt Ts'yl-os provincial park. Xeni Gwet'instill capture wild horses once in a while fortheir own use.

1725-32: Horses are still part of daily XeniGwet'in's life and have not been totallyreplaced by the automobile as seen in thisphotograph.

1725-33: Douglas Myers, a Stone Indianhorse whisperer is working on a wild horsecaptured in the valley. He will then deliverit to its owner.

1725-34: Douglas Myers, a Stone Indianhorse whisperer is working on a wild horsecaptured in the valley. He will then deliverit to its owner

1725-35: Horse wrangler, Ian McNeil andthe wild horse he captured for research,"Spanish Bob which posses transferin, aniron-binding protein marker only foundSpanish colonial horses. McNeil plans torelease Spanish Bob in the wildernesswhen research is finished.

1725-36: Each year in August, in the wildsof Chilcotin country, the Nemiah Valleyrodeo attracts olf fashion cowboys. Horse

races, bronco and bull riding and otherhorse related games make this rodeo asdown to earth as a rodeo gets.

1725-37-38: Bull riding is possibly themost dangerous event at the NemiahValley rodeo. The cowboy culture in nowfully integrated in the Xeni Gwet'in's ownculture. As a spectator said : "TheseIndians are real cowboys!"

1725-39: This young Xeni Gwet'in womancame to see her boyfriend compete in thebull riding event. Often a rite of passageamong young native men, this is a verydangerous activity where many areinjuried .

1725-40: Each year in August, in the wildsof Chilcotin country, the Nemiah Valleyrodeo attracts olf fashion cowboys. Horseraces, bronco and bull riding and otherhorse related games make this rodeo asdown to earth as a rodeo gets.

1725-41-42: The main attraction of theNemiah Valley rodeo is the unfamousmountain race, the only race of this kind inCanada (here competitors are crossingthe Nemiah creek.) Chief Roger William,an incredible horsemen wins most of thetime.

1725-43: Xeni Gwet'in ranger Harry Setahis patrolling the local territory to search forhose poachers on the 155 000 hectaresterritory of the wild horses reserve.

1725-44: Xeni Gwet'in ranger Harry Setahis patrolling the local territory to search forhose poachers on the 155 000 hectaresterritory of the wild horses reserve.

1725-45: Searching for wild horses nearMt Ts'yl-os provincial park. Xeni Gwet'instill capture wild horses once in a while for

their own use.

1725-46-47: Mt Ts'yl-os a central figure of a Xeni Gwet'in legend keeps asilent vigil over the valley.

1725-48: A bird's eye view of Konni lake in the center of the Nemiah Valley,with the Coast mountains range in the background gives an idea of thewilderness in the area.

1725-49: The Estern Coast mountain range reflects in a lake in centralNemiah valley.

1725-50: Chief Roger William racing Terry Lulua and June Cahoose duringthe mountain race event.

1725-51: The Nemiah Valley is surrounded by mountains, this makes it aterritory difficult to travel too and explains why the Xeni Gwet'in havereamained isolated for so long and thus protect their culture very well.

1725-52: The wild horses of the Nemiah Valley have come to symbolize theXeni Gwet'in First Nation's battle over their territory in British Columbia'sChilcotin country. The Xeni Gwetin and a conservation group, FONV, haveproposed the creation of a preserve to protect the last 200 or sowild-ranging horses in British Columbia from indiscriminating hunting andcapture. The Xeni Gwet'in have recently won a long court battle over a claimof title and rights over their traditional lands.

1725-53-54: The wild horses of the Nemiah Valley have come to symbolizethe Xeni Gwet'in First Nation's battle over their territory in British Columbia'sChilcotin country. The Xeni Gwetin and a conservation group, FONV, haveproposed the creation of a preserve to protect the last 200 or sowild-ranging horses in British Columbia from indiscriminating hunting andcapture. The Xeni Gwet'in have recently won a long court battle over a claim

of title and rights over their traditional lands.

nemaiah, the last mustangs valley

Documents

xeni gwetin

wild horses

nemiah valley

wild mustangs of canada

blood samples

uncommon variant oftransferrin

captured horse blood

long court battle