new applications of dyes in the textile industry
TRANSCRIPT
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New Applications of Dyes in the Textile Industry
Arvind Patel
International Conference on Indian Dyestuffs IndustryHotel Hyatt Regency, Mumbai
September 21-22, 2006
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Overview – Global Scenario (Application of dyes)
Segmentwise application – Conventional dyes
Changing scenario of Textile Industry
Latest application techniques/New generation
dyes
Features of few latest application techniques
Key points – Dyehouse management
Structure of Presentation
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Textile Dye Classes – World Market Size
Disperse32.7%
Reactive29.4%
Acid12.4%
Direct4.6%
Others*14.9%
Vat6.0%
* Indigo, Azoic, Sulphur, etc.
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Global Textile Scenario – Consumption pattern
Blended42.0%
Cotton43.5%
Synthetic12.5%
Silk1.5%
Wool0.5%
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Indian Textile Industry
The Growth AspirationsThe Growth Aspirations
Indian Tex. Mkt2010: $ 85 bn
Indian Tex. Mkt2004: $ 38 bn
Domestic : $ 45 bn
Exports : $ 40 bn
Domestic : $ 25 bn
Exports : $ 13 bn
Source: Asian Text. J., Aug’06
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Segmentwise Application – Conventional dyes
Softflow
W inch
Knitted
Jigger / Jet
W oven
Package / Top Cabinet
Fibre / Yarn
Exhaust
Cold Pad-Batch(CPB)
Pad-Jig/Pad-Dry-Jig
W oven / Knitted
Sem i-Continuous
Pad-Dry-Pad-Steam(PDPS)
W oven
Continuous
Dyeing
Direct
Discharge
Resist
Flat bed /Roller / Rotary
Printing
Application
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Segmentwise application of Reactive dyes
Exhaust Hot
13.0%
Exhaust Warm40.0%
Pad - Batch15.0%
Continuous11.0%
Printing21.0%
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Conventional Printing methods
Rotary Screen58.0%
Flat Bed28.0%
Transfer5.0%
Intaglio3.0%
Hand Screen6.0%
Source: I.Holme, Supplement to Colourage, 2006, LIII(4), 103
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Textile Printing
Characteristics of textile printing dyes (Reactive) High solubility
Low substantivity
High diffusion
High print paste stability
Suitable for short fixation method Compatibility
Conventional Printing processes Direct Style
Discharge Style
Resist Style
Transfer Printing
Reactive Segment: MCT dyes – Direct printing & VS dyes – Discharge printing Pigment printing is much popular than reactive printing Research and Development
Liquid brand dyes for Direct printing & Ink Jet printing
Improvement of solubility of MCT based printing dyes
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Stringent Quality requirements led by export market
Higher pressure on Price – Trend towards high economy
Conservation of Energy / Utility Cost
Shift of manufacturing from Europe to Asia
Growing commoditization of Products
Modernisation, Automation & Re-structuring activities
Growing importance of Brands and Retailers
Fast changing consumer tastes
Newer fibres and blends
Better RFT and Reproducibility
Shade accuracy and quick delivery
Increase in the technical support requirements by the user industry
Textile Industry
Changing ScenarioChanging Scenario
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Drivers – Global Textile Supply Chain
• Less Dyestuff• Less Chemical• Less Water• Less Energy• Reduced Stock Costs
• Shorter cycles• RFT Performance• Robustness
Higher Productivity
Reduced Costs
• Shade Reproducibility• Colour Fastness• Eco-compliance
Product Integrity
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Repeated laundering fastness in presence of novel washing powders
containing Bleach activators like TAED / SNOBS
Fastness to Oxidative Bleach Damage (M&S C10A)
Light fastness (especially in pale depths)
Wet Light fastness (in association with residual detergent residues)
Perspiration / Light fastness
Chlorine fastness
Dry Cleaning fastness
Mercerisation fastness
Weathering fastness
Critical Fastness Requirements
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E-Control System
Digital Ink – Jet Printing
RFT Approach
Dyeing in Ultra Low Liquor ratio
Dyeing of Vat dyes in Soft-flow machine
Dyeing of Newer fibres & Blends (Lycra, Lyocell, modal, bamboo, soyabean,
etc)
Rapid dyeing Disperse dyes
CPB dyeing of Knitted fabrics
Application of Sulphur dyes – Environmental friendly dyeing
One –Bath Continuous dyeing of Polyester / Cellulose blends (without R.C.)
Pad – OX Process
Reactive dyeing – Perceptible shift from Hot dyeing to Warm dyeing process
Replacement of Vat dyes with Reactive dyes - achievement of Light and Wash
fastness properties.
Latest Applications / Concepts
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High Strength Reactive dyes – Economical for Medium / Dark shades
High Fixation –Polyfunctional Reactive dyes
Non – Photochromic Reactive dyes
Reactive dyes with improved Light fastness for pale depths (especially Red)
Reactive dyes – Stable under repeated laundering with bleach activator
containing detergents
Application of Reactive dyes at Neutral pH
Low Salt Reactive dyes
Fluorescent Reactive dyes for fashion & sportswear
Liquid Reactive dyes for Printing
Reactive Blue, which can withstand Chlorinated pool water fastness
New generation Dyes in the Textile Industry
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Liquid Vat dyes for Pad-Dry-Cure application
Modified Pre-reduced Liquid Vat dyes
High Wash fast Disperse dyes
Alkali stable Disperse dyes
Disperse dyes for dyeing of Microfibre
Dyes for Ink Jet Printing
Liquid disperse dyes for Printing
New generation Dyes in the Textile Industry
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Stability of Reactive dyes
• Under Alkaline conditionsFluorotriazine > Chlorotriazine > Difluorochloropyrimidine > Dichlorotriazine > Dichloroquinoxaline > Vinyl Sulphone
• Under Acidic conditions Vinyl Sulphone > Difluorochloropyrimidine > Chlorotriazine > Fluorotriazine > Dichloroquinoxaline > Dichlorotriazine
• To liquor containing perborateFluorotriazine > Chlorotriazine > Vinyl Sulphone > Dichlorotriazine > Dichloroquinoxaline > Difluorochloropyrimidine
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E-Control
Process One Step, Simple & Economical Continuous process
No unproductive batching sequence
Ideal for short lot dyeing
Effective Wash-off
A wide variety of fabric can be dyed Rapid shade matching in laboratory Energy efficient
Performance High Productivity due to short process
Environment friendly as no salt, urea & silicate are used
Soft handle of fabric due to mild fixation conditions
Migration is minimised by rapid fixation & humidity control
No crushing of pile fabrics.
Improved penetration of different fabrics - Presence of Humidity at high temp.
Very good Lab- to -Bulk & Bulk- to-Bulk reproducibility.
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Ink Jet Printing
Why Ink-jet? Simple technology and high quality
Existing colorants can be used [Reactive / Disperse / Acid / Pigment]
Constantly improving technology [Robustness, Speed (>100 m2/hr.), Quality (1440 dpi)]
Printing of innovative & unique designs
No screens / Unlimited colours in a design Outstanding colour gamut Different types of Substrates
Trend is towards digital photography (Home / Photolabs] Lower start-up costs & shorter production times Shorter time from design to print Supply chain advantages More design options
Reactive dyes in ink-jet printingPurified MCTs
Inks specially designed for existing ink jet head technology
Covalent bond gives excellent wash fastness
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Ink Jet Printing
Requirement is maximum fastness through non-covalent interactions Fastness requirements
Water fastness Humidity fastness Highlighter smear Light fastness
Achieving enhanced fastness Increase size of dye [Water fastness increases with size] pH switch [Differential solubility between ink and water] Hydrophobic effect Use of additives for greater longevity of prints
Current and future developmentsPhotographic media
Need for increasing light fastness
- New chromophores
- Improve performance of existing chromophores
Approaches [ Sacrificial groups / Physical quenchers / Physical protection]
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Raw material: Substrate Dyestuffs Chemicals Water
Preparation of Substrate
Process Conditions: Machine parameters
Liquor ratio
Time / Temperature profile
Dyebath pH
Concentrations of Chemicals
Dye / Chemical addition profile
Wash-Off profile
RFT Approach
Important FactorsImportant Factors
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RFT Approach
THE BENEFITS OFTHE BENEFITS OF
FINANCIAL• Lower Costs per
Batch
• Increased Output
• Improved Profit
margin
NON FINANCIAL• Better Customer
Service
• Improved Quality
• Reduced Effluent load
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RFT Approach
NON RFTNON RFT – Impact on Process Costs – Impact on Process Costs
RFT 1 Add 2 Adds BlackOverdye
Unlevel Off Shade& Unlevel
0
150
100
50
200
Rela
tive B
atc
h C
ost
100
118134
141
180
200
Dye Energy Water Chemicals Labour Fixed Drying
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RFT Approach
NON RFTNON RFT – Impact on Productivity – Impact on Productivity
100% RFT90% RFT80% RFT 70% RFT 60% RFT0
75
50
25
100
% M
ach
ine T
ime
% PRODUCTIVE TIME % REPROCESSING TIME
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Popular MythsPopular Myths
Severe Unlevelness
Oxidation Marks / Streak Marks
Patchy Dyeing
Layer to Layer variation
Centre to Selvedge variation
Lack of Solidity in shade
VAT dyes on Knits (Softflow Machine)
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Tips to achieve SUCCESSTips to achieve SUCCESS
Closed / Airtight Machines [Preferably HTHP Machines]
Overflow Rinsing facility over normal liquor level
Adjustment of rope length
Proper Cycle time (90-120 seconds)
Low Strike rate / Method 2 dyes are preferred
Dyes with Low Reduction Potential are preferred
Better results with higher MLR
Each Cubic Metre free air requires
1.7 Lts. (38oBe’) Caustic Soda & 1.7 kgs. Hydros
To check the presence of sufficient amount of Hydros frequently
Ensure Perfect dosing profiles
More amount of Lubricating agent
Vat dyes on Knits (Softflow Machine)
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High Strength dyes
Special Features & associated BenefitsSpecial Features & associated Benefits
Outstanding Tinctorial Strength Extra deep shades at lower conc.
High Degree of Fixation Lesser Water consumtion Lesser Colour in effluent
Excellent Fastness Properties Meets modern Customer’s Requirements
Robust system / Good compatibility
Achievement of RFT Results
Easy Wash-Off Outstanding Wet Fastness
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Strategies adopted by Colorant Manufacturers
• Growth in market share- Work towards profitable growth – Quality business with a good return
- Strategic alliances in specific activities
• Customer focus and innovation- Apply dye technology development to improve overall dyeing efficiencies
- Offer high quality technical service
- Innovative business with a continual flow of new products and application processes
- Develop synergic improvements with auxiliaries and process chemicals (package approach)
• Cost and Quality- Control production and distribution costs; manage the supply chain to reduce inventories
- Achieve rapid, on-time delivery
• Global presence- Improve and expand the marketing and technical service network in growing markets
• Environment- Have products and processes designed to lower the environmental impact
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Cost Reduction
RFT Approach
Technology Upgradation
Improved quality
Reduced cycle times
Reduced lead time for delivery
Perfect Repeatability
Reliable results satisfying critical fastness requirements
Maximum machine flexibility
International competitiveness
Much reduced environmental impact
Dyehouse Management
Key FactorsKey Factors
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Any Questions?
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Thank You Very Much