March. 2012

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Jane Ram长期住在香港，被公认是这个地区最有才华

的作家之一。她为全球数家知名出版社撰稿，其中

包括《亚洲华尔街日报》，《经济学人》和《读者

文摘》。她一直在中国，东南亚地区寻觅各地特色美

食，认为食物和植物都是生命的源泉。当她在极具田

园诗情的Lamma岛屿上时，最喜欢在自家的厨房中用

最新鲜的食材和菜谱创意发挥，还乐于与厨师和市场

中的小贩讨论美食的真谛。

A long-time resident of Hong Kong, Jane Ram is acknowledged as one of the region’s most versatile writers. Her work has appeared in many regional and international publications including the Asian Wall Street Journal, the Economist, and Reader’s Digest. She travels widely throughout China and Southeast Asia and wherever she goes she explores local cuisine. She regards food and plants as among life’s essentials. She enjoys learning from chefs and market vendors alike and when she is at home on idyllic Lamma Island she likes to experiment with new ingredients and recipes in her own kitchen.

Jane Ram

Artisanal Products美食工艺品

BreadAs a long time home bread baker I find most mass-produced bread unpalatable to say the least. Where is the flavor, the texture and the satisfying feeling to which I am accustomed?

Now I learn that commercial bread (and presumably most other baked products) are made with flour that contains enzymes and other additives that can be positively unhealthy and even dangerous for some people. I am currently reading "Bread Matters—why and how to make your own", by Andrew Whitley. This won the Best Food Book 2006, Andre Simon Book Awards.

Andrew Whitley founded one of Britain's most famous artisanal bakeries, the Village Bakery in Melmerby, Cumbria, only 30 miles from Hadrian's Wall. He uses stone-ground, organic flour for all his award-winning bread, cakes and pastries. He is also co-founder of the nationwide Real Bread Campaign. He has now moved close to Edinburgh where he has his own organic farm and also teaches artisanal bread-making.

This is much more than a recipe book as Whitley starts by presenting hitherto unpubl ished research showing the potentially harmful effects on human health of changes in the way wheat is grown, milled and turned into bread. He suggests that the growing number of people who are wheat/gluten intolerant can be attributed to changes in the quality of flour. In particular he questions the use of certain enzymes that are routinely added to flour and to bread without being

DINING DESTINATION餐饮行

declared on the label. I doubt whether anyone has looked hard at the flour and baking regulations in the USA, Hong Kong or China Mainland. But I would be surprised to learn that the situation is better than in the UK. Hygiene seems to be the only preoccupation, but I would also like to be sure that I am not inadvertently consuming enzymes derived from feathers, pig's pancreas and other unspeakable sources in the determination to reduce the costs while increasing the volume and prolonging the keeping time of the finished loaf. This reaffirms my determination to continue making my own bread.

Long ago in a fit of enthusiasm I bought a grain grinder in Vienna. I hesitated for some time before handing over what seemed rather a large sum of money, but I have never regretted this purchase. It is a very simple piece of kitchen equipment and it still functions well as it faithfully grinds rye, wheat and other whole grains so that I can use them fresh whenever I want to bake.

The first generation of my "home-ground" loaves were extremely dense and heavy. The flavor, however, was great and the bread was extremely satisfying. This is not a beauty contest, I told myself and continued to read and experiment. These days I rely on a sourdough starter and a long rise to soften the bran that makes for tough texture in whole grain breads. I'm not sure whether one learns to make the kind of bread that one likes to eat, or perhaps one learns to like the kind of bread that one makes. Either way, it works for me, my family and my friends—or perhaps they are all too polite to complain.

It seems that traditional guilds still protect the baking industry in Continental Europe. A formal 2-year apprent iceship is essential for bakers and tight regulations control the purity of f lour and other ingredients, thus protecting consumers from the worst excesses that prevail across the English Channel. Even if you read the label on the flour or bread that you buy, it needs a cryptologist to crack the coded numbers that are usually given as additives and "improvers". Let the buyer beware!

Twenty years ago most of Hong Kong's five-star hotels took pride in the quality and individuality of their bread made on the premises. Increasingly these days, however, they rely on mass-produced factory bread, albeit made to their

specifications, but lacking the special character that a real baker gives his dough. One of the shining exceptions is the Four Seasons, where patisseur Gregoire Michaud tirelessly strives for the highest quality in his breads and everything else that he does. He has produced four cookbooks, including two for home bakers who would like to do something different when they make bread.

面包很长一段时间，我发现大部分家庭面包烘焙师的作品都不敢恭维，哪里才能找到我曾经习惯的那种口味、那种材质、那种感觉？如今，我知道店铺里的面包（可能大部分其他烘焙产品）所采用的面粉中含有酶和其他添加剂，这些东西都不健康，甚至对特定的人群有危险。最 近 我 正 在 读 安 德 鲁 · 惠 特 利 的“Bread Matters – why and how to make your own”， 这本书荣获2006年安德烈西蒙图书奖最佳食品读物奖。安德鲁·惠特利建立了英国最为著名的传统手工面包房——位于坎布里亚郡梅尔默的乡村面包房，距离哈德良长城30英里。他使用细细磨碎的有机面粉制作面包、蛋糕、甜点，他同时也是全国性“Real Bread Campaign”活动的共同创始人。如今，安德鲁·惠特利搬迁至爱丁堡，那里他拥有自己的有机农场，同时教授传统面包制作方法。

这不仅仅是一本菜谱书，安德鲁·惠特利在其中展示了迄今为止从未发布过的研究成果。研究表明人类的健康受到从小麦种植、研磨、到转变成面包这一过程的潜在影响。在他看来，小麦/谷蛋白不耐症患者逐渐增加的原因在于面粉的质量。他尤其质疑特定酶的使用，这种酶常被加入到面粉和面包中 ， 但 是 在 商 标 中 却 不 标明。我怀疑是否真的有人仔细看过美国、香港或者中国大陆的面粉及烘焙条例，但是我还是很惊讶这里的情况好于英国。卫生状况看起来是唯一的首要考虑要素，不过我很确信我并非不注意酶的消耗，它们来自羽毛、来自猪的胰脏以及其他不方便道出的来源，从而在增加产量和延长成品保质期的同时降低成本。这让我更加坚定了自己做面包的决心。

很 久 以 前 ， 我 一 时 心 血 来潮，在维也纳买了一台谷物研磨机。记得当时因为价格的原因，我还有所犹豫，但是 我 从 未 后 悔 购 买 这 台 机器。虽然只是一个简单的厨房设备，不过到目前为止，

它一直工作良好，可以研磨黑麦、小麦以及其他谷物，供我随时所需。

我的第一代“自制”烤面包十分厚实而笨重。不过口味却很好，绝对令人满意。我告诉我自己，这不是“选美比赛”，并且继续不断尝试。这些日子，我致力于发酵面包，然后上升到麦麸，这为全麦面包带来更为粗糙的口感。我不确认学习做面包的人是否应该喜欢吃面包，可能更为可行的是学习制作人们喜欢的面包。不管怎么说，任何一种解释对我、我的朋友和家人都行得通，不过也许他们因为礼貌的缘故而没有抱怨。

在欧洲大陆，传统的协会似乎仍在保护烘焙行业。2年正式的学徒期对于面包师来说至关重要，苛刻的条规控制着面粉和其他原料的纯度，由此保护消费者免受由英吉利海峡那边的“不良影响”。不过即便你在购买时，仔细阅读面粉或面包上的商标，你还需要一位密码破译专家帮你解读那些有关食品添加剂的加密数字。消费者还是要小心！

20年前，香港很多家五星酒店对于酒店内售卖的自制面包质量和特色十分骄傲。这些年来，他们依赖大批量生产的工厂面包，即便达到他们的规格，但是却缺少一个真正面包师所赋予其作品的个性和特色。不过也有例外，其中较为著名的是香港四季酒店，他们的糕饼师Gregoire Michaud孜孜不倦地努力追求面包的最高品质以及他制作的其他糕点。他自己有四本烹饪著作，其中有两本专门针对家庭面包师，特别是那些想在家做一些特别面包的烘焙爱好者。（本文中的菜谱便出自他的最新作品）

Gregoire Michaud

March. 2012

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Bespoke Curry FlavorsThe word curry derives from the Tamil word kari, which simply means "sauce". These days, however, it is the generic term for all types of spiced dishes from South and Southeast Asia. So what is curry powder? You might well ask about the cans and packets commonly seen on supermarket shelves. Sometimes it is graded mild, medium or hot, but beyond that point you have no idea what you are buying and what ingredients this particular blend will complement.

In serious curry country every family uses its own blends of powdered whole spices and most of these are freshly made every day. The most famil iar ingredients are probably dried chilli and turmeric that imparts the characteristic yellow color associated with curries and it also has important digestive and medicinal properties. Even the simplest mix can include a galaxy of flavors. The recipes are not exactly secret, but every home cook prides herself on producing food that tastes different from what her neighbours eat. I keep on hand about four basic mixtures that I grind up for a few batches of cooking at a time. The packages of whole spices stay fresh in my freezer alongside small sealed containers of the powdered mixes. Purists prepare everything from scratch every time as

they say that mixed spices lose some of their vitality when stored in this way. But I find it does not seem to make a discernible difference and I do take this particular short cut.

Thailand has i ts own curries that are usually red and green with an occasional mussalman style that is dark yellow. Rather than relying mainly on dried spices, Thai cooks use many fresh ingredients along with dried spices to make curry pastes. You can b u y r e a d y m a d e versions of these, b u t i f y o u c a n a s s e m b l e a l l the ingred ien ts , t h e h o m e -m a d e v e r s i o n s wi l l always taste greatly superior. In his classic book on Thai cooking, a c k n o w l e d g e d e x p e r t D a v i d Thompson gives m a n y r e c i p e s f o r r e d , y e l l o w and green curry pastes plus exotic s o u n d i n g s o u r orange.

定制咖喱口味英 语 的 咖 喱 “ C u r r y ” 一 词 来 自 坦 米尔 语 “ k a r i ” ， 简 而 言 之 即 “ 酱 汁（sauce）”。近来，咖喱已经成为南亚和东南亚各种香料的通用术语。那么，咖喱粉是什么？当然常见的是超市货架上的

罐子和小包。有时咖喱粉包装上标有柔和、中等、辛辣的等级，但是除了这一点，你对自己购买的

东西以及其中加了哪些原料进行混合一无所知。

严格说来，在咖喱流行的国度，每一个家庭使用自己的方法调配混合咖喱粉，为了确保新鲜，基本都是当天调配，当天用。最为熟悉的原料可能是干辣椒和姜黄粉，

从而给咖喱带来黄色以及最为重要的助消化和医疗特性。即便是简单的混合也能带来万千

的滋味。这些菜谱并不完全是秘密，但是每家每户都为调配和邻居不同的咖喱

而感到骄傲。我使用了四种基本的调料进行混合，磨碎后分成数份进行保存。调料和咖喱粉都放在冷冻室内密封以保持新鲜度。完美主义者总是事必亲恭，在他们看来，如果这样保存的话，食材将会损失其活力。不过我倒觉得区别不大，这个秘诀还是值得采用。

泰国有其自产的咖喱，通常是伊斯兰风格搭配红绿咖喱，最终带来深黄色的效果。与其说是主要依靠干香料，不如说泰国厨师偏爱使用新鲜原料搭配干香料来调制咖喱酱。你可以购买这些已有的产品。不过如果你能收集所有的原料，自制咖喱酱品尝起来更无以伦比。在著名专家David Thompson的泰餐烹饪著作中，展示了许多红、黄、绿咖喱酱的菜谱，搭配具有异域特色的酸橙。

DINING DESTINATION餐饮行

Hayman Chocolate

One of Australia's finest chocolatiers and pastry chefs will be celebrating the world of chocolate during April on Hayman, the much acclaimed private island destination in the Great Barrier Reef. Kirsten Tibballs is the Australian Ambassador for Callebaut, the exclusive chocolate brand with more than 100 years o f h i s to ry behind it. During her stay on Hayman Kirsten will introduce a selection of decadent creations in a series of Callebaut Chorolate Master Classes and Callebaut Chocolate Appreciation sessions. Hayman's signature dish for April will be the Hayman Chocolate Salad, a combination of four Callebaut chocolates and six textures with

Artisanal chocolateWe are all too familiar with brand-name chocolate at the top or bottom end of the market. Chocolate is a traditional Va len t ine 's Day g i f t and a t i s the traditional time for chocolate and chefs and chocolatiers everywhere are trying to outdo one another as they strive to find a variation on the basic theme of a chocolate heart. Easter would not be Easter without chocolate Easter eggs, rabbits and frivolities of all kinds. If you have ever been in Vienna or Paris during the lead up to Easter, you would never look at another mass-produced chocolate egg again. All the top patisseurs and chocolatiers have entire shop windows given over to the display of their creations that all look almost too good to eat.

berries, dressed with lavender and native lime. April afternoons will light up with a three-tiered presentation of Callebaut chocolate delicacies alongside a glass of NV Moet & Chandon Champagne.

巧克力对于超市货架上从上到下的知名巧克力，想必大家都耳熟能详。巧克力是一种传统情人节礼物，每到这个时候，世界各地的厨师和巧克力店都在努力推出各种巧克力相关的新甜品。没有巧克力复活节彩蛋、兔子，复活节就不能称之为复活节。如果 你在复活节前去维也纳或是巴黎，你绝对不会再看那些大批量生产的巧克力一眼。所有顶级的糕点师和巧克力师用整个橱窗展示着他们的创意，每一个看上去都像是艺术品，让人不舍得吃。

4月，在澳大利亚的著名的大堡礁，最好的巧克力师傅和糕饼师傅都会聚集在其中的私人岛屿海曼岛，庆祝这个巧克力的奇妙世界。Kirsten Tibballs是卡勒宝特的澳大利亚大使，这一品牌已经有了100多年的 历 史 。 来 到 海 曼 期 间 ，Kirsten将会在卡勒宝特巧克力大师课和巧克力鉴赏会上介绍一系列全新巧克力创意。海曼4月的招牌菜是海曼巧克力沙拉，4种卡勒宝特巧克力搭配浆果，薰衣草和青 柠 汁 。 酩 悦 香槟、三层高的卡勒宝特巧克力美食，4月的下午因此而明亮缤纷。

Kirsten Tibballs

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Artisanal Products at Kowloon Shangri-La Kowloon Shangri-La is a by-word for good food, lovingly prepared. At the hotel 's signature I tal ian restaurant, Angelini, the ravioli and gnocchi are handmade from scratch. "We make our ravioli fresh on the premises instead of using the store bought ones as our chef wants to give our guests more seasonal and exciting choices in terms of fillings. Prepackaged ravioli limits what we can offer to our guests. It's also important to make our own gnocchi as it prevents the pasta from having a surface that's too smooth to soak up the beautiful sauce," explains Robin Zavou, Executive Sous Chef for Angelini.

"As a signature product of Shang Palace, the premium X.O. Chilli Sauce consists of only the finest ingredients of dried scal lops, dried shrimps, yunnan ham, red chillies and other secret ingredients," says Executive Chinese Chef, Mok Kit Keung. "That's why we have to prepare it fresh in our kitchen with no added preservatives as opposed to relying on branded products. We want to make it a unique sauce that guests can't find elsewhere," he adds.

九龙香格里拉X.O.辣椒酱九龙香格里拉酒店几乎等同于美食。酒店的意大利餐厅Angelini一般都自制意大

利馄饨和面团，“我们一般都提前自己做馄饨，而不采用其他商店购买的，因为我们的厨师想带给客人们更时令新鲜的口感。包装好的意大利馄饨限制了我们能够带给客人的各种体验。而如果由我们自己来做面团的话，就不会有过分光滑的表面，从而导致无法吸收丰富的酱汁。”餐厅副总厨Robin Zavou说道。

作为香宫的招牌产品，优质X.O.辣椒酱只使用最好的干贝、干虾、云南火腿和其他神秘原料。餐厅行政中厨Mok Kit Keung说：“这就是我们为什么必须在自己的厨房里准备食材而不添加任何防腐剂的原因。我们希望做出只此一家的酱汁。

G u i l t - f r e e S p i c e d Mango JamChef Bryan Burger from RE KA TA Beach Club Phuket Our inspiration when creating our jams comes with the desire to help improve our guest wellbeing. We always think about that guest that has always wanted to try something but due to food sensitivities or health reasons has been unable to. This is our challenge but is also our passion to ensure that we create that special menu item for these guests. As it is not only about the meal, but also all levels of our guests consciousness, whether it be emotional, physical, mental,spiritual or beyond...

This jam is a heatlhy twist without losing the wonderful

flavor of the mango.

“无负担”辣味芒果酱当普吉岛RE KE TA海滩俱乐部的厨师Bryan Burger打算做一些有助健康的果酱时，他有了这个创意。客人们总是想尝试一些新的东西，但是由于对食物的敏感和健康原因，却不能实现自己的愿望。这是对我们的挑战，同时也不断促进我们改善菜谱，满足这部分客人的需求。这不仅跟餐饮有关，同时也跟客户潜意识的不同水平有关，无论是情感、生理、心理，还是精神……

这款果酱有益健康，同时富含芒果的美味。

X.O. Chilli Sauce

DINING DESTINATION餐饮行

Confit Garlic & Oregano Schiacciata大蒜牛至扁面包

Ingredients:For starter250g flour type 45, 12g dry yeast, 240g water

For dough400g flour type 45, 100g eggs, 10g sugar, 85ml olive oil, 12g salt, fresh oregano sq, confit garlic knob sq, sea salt sq, olive oil for brushing sq, dusting flour

DirectionBasic Temperature 63℃, Kneading time spiral mixer Slow speed: 6 mn – Fast speed: 10 mn, Dough Temperature 27℃, Bulk fermentation 45 min, Weight 350g, Rest time 15 min, Shaping Flat bread, Final fermentation 30 min, Initial baking temperature 225℃, Baking temperature 210℃, Baking time 40 minutes

Method:1. Mix the starter using a whisk and keep in a warm place for 2 hours. 2. Knead the dough, adding the starter and some oregano in the dough. 3. Add the salt 3 minutes prior kneading

ends.4. After resting time, shape the bread into round flat breads. 5. Place on a tray lined with baking paper and proof. 6. Once proofed, brush with olive oil and make holes with your fingers. 7. Push garlic confit knobs in the dough and sprinkle with sea salt and oregano. 8. Bake until golden brown, without steam and with exhaust opened.

Chef's tips:To prepare garlic confit, prepare a cooking pot with olive oil and simmer at low temperature the fresh garlic knob until soft and cooked through.

原料：开始250克45号面粉、12克干酵母、240克水

面团400克45号面粉、100克鸡蛋、10克糖、85毫升橄榄油、12克盐、新鲜牛至、大蒜瓣干、海盐、橄榄油（刷）、面粉

说明：基本温度63℃，螺旋混合器揉面时间：低速：6分钟；高速：10分钟，面团温度27℃，饧发时间45分钟，重量350克，放置时间15分钟，形状扁面包，最后饧发30分钟，预热烘烤温度225℃，烘烤温度210℃，烘烤时间40分钟

做法：1. 将开始部分原料搅拌混合，在温暖的地方放置2小时2. 揉面团，加入开始部分原料和一些牛至3. 揉面结束前加入3分钟时，加入盐4. 放置一段时间后，将面团揉成圆扁状5. 放在边缘铺有烘焙纸的烤盘上6. 刷上橄榄油，用手指戳几个洞7. 将大蒜瓣放入面团中，撒上海盐和牛至8. 烘烤直到金黄色，无需蒸汽，使用排气烤炉

厨师小贴士：准备大蒜干。蒸煮罐中放橄榄油，小火煮新鲜大蒜直到软嫩、煮透

Recipes P61-64 are from Gregoire Michaud's latert book

March. 2012

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Horseradish Flaxseed Semolina Squares 山葵亚麻籽小麦粗粒面包

Ingredients:500g fine semolina, 10g dry yeast, 50g butter, 12g salt, 300g water, 50g horseradish, 10g flaxseed, semolina for dusting

DirectionBasic Temperature 6 0 ℃ , K n e a d i n g time spiral mixer Slow speed: 6 mn – Fast speed: 8 mn, Dough Temperature 25℃, Bulk fermentation 1 hour, Weight, 50g, Rest time 15 min, Shaping Square, Final fermentation 30 min, Initial baking temperature 215℃, Baking temperature 200℃, Baking time 25 min

Method:1. Knead the dough and add the salt 3 minutes before kneading ends. 2. Add the horseradish and flaxseed after the kneading process is done, in slow speed. 3. After the bulk time, flatten the dough to about 2 cm thick and let it chill in the fridge for about 1 hour, covered with plastic. 4. Cut the dough slab into squares of

about 5 cm and place on a baking tray. 5. Once proofed, bake with steam and closed exhaust. Open the exhaust once coloring starts.

Chef's tipsThe blend of horseradish and flaxseed into semolina bread is unique and a great match to your dining table. Think about serving it with any roasted meat and other hearty meals. For the horserad ish : F ind f resh horseradish roots, peel them and dice. In a food processor, add a little ice water, salt and a table spoon of vinegar. Blend it until it has the texture of a horseradish cream.

原料：500克精粗粒小麦粉、10克干酵母、50克黄油、12克盐、300克水、50克山葵、10克亚麻籽、粗粒小麦粉

说明：基本温度60℃，螺旋混合器揉面时间：低速：6分钟；高速：8分钟，面团温度25℃，饧发时间1小时，重量50克，放

置时间15分钟，形状方形，最后饧发30分钟，预热烘烤温度215℃，烘焙温度200℃，烘烤时间25分钟

做法：1. 揉面团，在结束前3分钟时放入盐2. 揉面结束后，加入山葵和亚麻籽，低速3. 饧发后，将面团压成2厘米厚，在冰箱里冷藏1小时，盖上塑料盖4. 将面团切成5厘米见方的方块，放在烤盘上5. 一旦定型，以蒸汽烘焙，关闭排气阀。当上色后，开启排气阀

厨师小贴士将山葵和亚麻籽混入粗粒小麦粉面包是一种独一无二的做法，适合你的餐桌，它可以搭配任何烤肉和其他丰盛的美食。山葵：新鲜的山葵根，去皮，切成丁。在食物处理器中，加入一点冰水、盐、1汤匙醋。搅拌，直到质地滑嫩，如同山葵冰淇淋。

DINING DESTINATION餐饮行

Portobello Mushroom Country Bread波多贝罗蘑菇乡村面包

Ingredients:650g flour type 65, 100g whole wheat flour, 100g rye flour, 12g dry yeast, 35g wheat germ, 20g salt, 550ml water, 300g portobello mushroom, 2g cracked black pepper, dusting flour

Direction:Basic Temperature 65℃, Kneading time spiral mixer Slow speed: 12 mn – Fast speed: 8 mn, Dough Temperature 26℃, Bulk fermentation 1 hour, Weight 450g, Rest time 15 min, Shaping, Round loaf, Final fermentation 45 mn, Initial baking temperature 235℃, Baking temperature 210℃, Baking time, 45 minutes

Method:1. Wash and cut the fresh mushrooms into thick slices. Cook them with olive oil and salt. 2. Knead the dough; add salt 3 minutes prior kneading ends.3. Once the kneading is done, add the cooled mushrooms in slow speed. 4. Keep a part of dough in the fridge to later roll the top part of the loaves. 5. After the bulk fermentation, place the dough on a table dusted with fine semolina and weigh the dough. Gently pre-shape round loaves and al low resting. 6. Roll the chilled dough at 3mm thickness and cut discs of the same diameter as

your loaves.7. Place the discs on a cloth dusted with flour and shape your round loaves.8. Brush water on the top of the loaves and place them up-side-down on the discs. 9. Once fully proofed, flip the breads on a floured board. 10. Bake directly on your baking stone with steam. Open the exhaust once coloring starts.

Chef's tipsYou can use any type of mushrooms; however, grilled Portobello mushrooms have a specific flavor that mixes well in bread, especially char-gril led. Mushroom bread is great toasted and served warm with any type of soups or melted cheese sandwiches and tartines. Naturally, mushrooms contain a lot of water, therefore the amount of water is reduced in the recipe or else the dough will be too soft.

原料：650克45号面粉、100克全麦面粉、100克黑麦粉、12克干酵母、35克麦芽、20克盐、550毫升水、300克波多贝罗蘑菇、2克黑胡椒碎、面粉

说明：基本温度63℃，螺旋混合器揉面时间： 低速：12分钟；高速：8分钟，面团温

度26℃，饧发时间1小时，重量450克，放置时间15分钟，形状圆条，最后饧发45分钟，预热烘烤温度235℃，烘焙温度210℃，烘烤时间45分钟

做法：1. 新鲜蘑菇洗净，切成片。以橄榄油和盐烹调2. 揉面团，揉面结束前3分钟放入盐3. 揉好后，慢速冷却蘑菇4. 将面团的一部分放置冰箱冷藏，用于面包上面的部分5. 饧发后，将面团放在桌上，撒上粗粒小麦粉、称重。将面团揉成长条状，放置一边6. 将冷却的面团卷成3毫米厚度，按照相同的直径切成圆片7. 将圆片放在撒有面粉的桌布上。做圆形面包条8. 在面包条上刷少许水，倒置放在圆片上9. 一旦定型，将面包放在撒上面粉的面板上10. 直接用蒸汽在烘焙石上进行烘焙，一旦上色，可打开排气阀门

厨师小贴士你可以使用任何蘑菇，但是烤过的波多贝罗蘑菇有一种特别的风味，可以与面包完美混合，特别是碳烤。蘑菇面包师一种特别烘焙面包。趁热食用，搭配各种汤或者奶酪三明治、奶油果酱面包片都是不错的选择。蘑菇本身就含有很多的水分，因此在菜谱中没有加入水，否则面团会过软。

March. 2012

64DINING DESTINATION

餐饮行

Candied Ginger Pan d'Oro糖渍姜黄金面包

Ingredients:280g flour type 45, 80ml milk, 90g white sugar, 110g butter, 180g eggs, 8g dry yeast, 5g salt, half pc lemon zest, 2tbsp amaretto, 1tbsp accacia honey, 75g diced candied ginger, icing sugar

Direction:basic temperature 63℃, kneading time spiral mixer slow speed: 14 mn – fast speed: 6 mn, dough temperature 25℃, bulk fermentation one night, weight 50g, rest time 20 min, shaping round, final fermentation 3 hours, initial baking temperature 180℃, baking temperature 180℃, baking time, 25 minutes

Method:1. Knead the dough and add the salt 3 minutes prior kneading ends. 2. Let is rest at room temperature for half hour and fold it once. 3. Keep the dough in a covered plastic container overnight in the fridge at 5℃.

4. The next day, fold the dough again, weigh it and pre-shape it in round shape. 5. Allow resting and shape the rolls. Place them in metal ring lined with paper. 6. Proof at room temperature for about 3 hours. 7. Brush water, dust sugar and icing sugar heavily and bake with exhaust open.

Chef's tipsThis recipe calls for very little yeast, a very long fermentation and a very liquid dough making it very moist and delicious. Pan d'Oro is traditionally made for the end of year festivities.

原料：280克面粉（45号）、80毫升牛奶、90克白糖、110克黄油、180克鸡蛋、8克干酵母、5克盐、半个柠檬汁、2汤匙金合欢蜜、75克糖渍姜丁、糖霜

说明：基本温度 63℃，螺旋混合器揉面时间： 低速：14分钟；高速：6分钟，面团温度 25℃，饧发时间 1晚上，重量 50克，放置时间 20分钟，形状 圆形，最后饧发 3小时，预热烘烤温度 180℃，烘烤时间 25分钟

做法：1. 揉捏面团，结束这一过程前加入盐2. 在室温下放置半小时，再卷起3. 将面团放在可盖上盖子的塑料容器内，在冰箱里以5℃冷藏一晚4. 次日，再次卷起面团，称重，揉成圆形5. 放置一会，然后揉成卷。放在金属环中，以纸包裹6. 在室温下放置3小时刷上水、撒糖和糖霜，以排气炉烘烤

厨师小贴士这种做法需要很少的酵母、很长的发酵。面团柔软多水。这种黄金面包是年末节日的传统食品