new zealand 11th june - 21st july 2008 - cloudbirders zealand 11th june - 21st july 2008 ... we...

New Zealand 11th June - 21st July 2008

Richard Rae

Kea, Homer Tunnel

This report covers a five-and-a-half week trip to New Zealand by Richard Rae and

Emer Callanan.

Although I was certainly keen to see as many of the endemics as possible during

this time, it wasn’t a hardcore birding trip and a significant amount of time was

spent on things other than birding. A focused birding trip would only need 2.5 - 3 weeks to see the vast majority of NZ endemics.

Although NZ is undoubtedly home to some extraordinary birds, it is a shame that relatively few can be seen in a ‘natural’ state - with many of the best species only

realistically seeable in a reintroduced state on offshore islands. Additionally much

of the country is more-or-less devoid of any native species, being populated

primarily by introduced European species. This offers relatively little opportunity

for what I personally regard as good birding.

On the plus side, there is some excellent pelagic birding, and the country is easy

to travel around with varied and aesthetically pleasing scenery.

Getting There and Getting Around

We flew to New Zealand from Australia, as part of a round the world ticket. On

arrival we almost immediately left to make a side trip to New Caledonia, returning

for our main visit to NZ. We departed to the more exotic climes of French

Polynesia.

Having your own transport is more-or-less essential in New Zealand– we elected

to hire a campervan to give us more flexibility. This was OK, although as it was

winter it was extremely cold at night, meaning that most nights we had to pay to

stay at a campsite in order to get a powerpoint for the heater. Although I don’t have the precise details to hand and am writing this some time after, I seem to

recall that we paid in the region of £600GBP for the hire of the van for 5.5 weeks

(pretty much the most basic model), from a company called Backpacker Camper

Vans.

Roads are good throughout although snow and ice can be a significant issue

during winter - eg. we had to spend an extra night in Haast as a sudden heavy snowfall closed the Haast Pass.

Taking vehicles on the Wellington-Picton ferry is expensive, and I believe that some rental companies offer the option to drop off your car/van and collect a new

vehicle at the other end, although this was not something we availed of.

It seems that a not insignificant number of New Zealanders have something of a

dislike of campervans - a number of times while parked up at night we were

woken by passing vehicles needlessly beeping their horns, and on one memorable

occasion an oncoming motorist fiercely raised her middle digit in my direction

apropos of nothing at all!

Money

The currency in New Zealand is the NZ dollar - the exchange rate at the time of

travel was about NZ$2.6 to the pound. We used a mixture of cash and card to

pay for things, and I don’t recall any major issues with locating or using cash machines.

Accommodation

Mostly the campervan, although we spent a couple of nights in a B&B on Stewart

Island.

Food

Almost entirely self-catering for us, cooked in the camper van.

Health and Safety

NZ is probably one of the safer countries for travel in the world, with no particular risks to highlight. Probably the biggest is remaining safe on the roads during

winter, when conditions can be treacherous.

Trip Reports and Field Guides

There are numerous good trip reports available for NZ on the internet - I

primarily used Jon Hornbuckle’s 1999 report for planning purposes. The field guide used was The Hand Guide to the Birds of New Zealand by Robertson and Heather - nice and light for use in the field, but still detailed enough (not that there are many difficult species in NZ).

Sound Recordings

I took recordings of a few species, probably downloaded from xeno-canto. Useful

for species such as Fernbird and Yellowhead.

SITES VISITED

All sites visited are well known and well covered in existing reports and online

info. This is just a brief summary of the different areas we visited, in the order we

visited them.

North Island (part one)

Starting at Auckland, we drove a short way north to Gulf Harbour, from where

we day-tripped the island of Tiritiri Matangi, a stronghold for a number of

introduced endemic passerines either rare or extinct on the main islands. Then

south to the Thames Estuary at Miranda for some shorebirding. From here we

drove to the Rotorua area, home to a few waterbirds on the lakes near the town.

After a stop off at a site for Blue Duck near Raehiti, we then drove south to

Wellington at the southern tip of the North Island. Near Wellington I visited

the excellent Karori Sanctuary on the outskirts of the city, home to a mixture of

native and reintroduced species.

South Island

After crossing on the Wellington to Picton Ferry (a few sea birds), we did a

rough anticlockwise loop of the South Island, starting at Nelson Lakes National

Park (a mixture of lake, forest and montane habitats), then heading across to

Okarito on the west coast for the eponymous Kiwi as well as Fernbird, then

continuing down towards the ancient forests of the Haast Pass via the Fox and

Franz Josef Glaciers. Then we drove down to the Milford Sound area, via the

alpine habitat around the Homer Tunnel, before heading to the southern part of

the South Island. From here we took the ferry to Stewart Island (from where

we also visited the smaller Ulva Island), and then returned to the South Island.

Heading up the east coast via the Nugget Point (for Yellow-eyed Penguin),

we then headed inland to see the Black Stilts near Twizel, before driving up

towards Kaikoura via Christchurch and Arthur’s Pass (a further try for Alpine

species). At Kaikoura we made a couple of pelagic trips to look for cetaceans

and birds, before returning to Picton to catch the ferry back to the North Island.

North Island (part two)

Driving back up towards Auckland, the only significant birding stop made was at

Pureora Forest Park, an excellent area containing a decent number of the

endemics in a natural state.

DAILY DIARY

11th June - We arrived at Auckland late am from Noumea (New Caledonia).

Took a free bus to the Backpacker depot. Bit of a wait and then we collected our van and were off. Drove up to Gulf Harbour to check the route for tomorrow

morning, then checked in at the Pinewood Caravan Park (NZ$26 for a powered

site) at Red Beach. Fish and Chips for tea (NZ$5.80), then slept well after a very

long day.

12th June - Breakfast at the caravan park, then to Gulf Harbour for 09:00, in

time for the 09:50 sailing to Tiritiri Matangi Island (NZ$35 per person, plus NZ$3

p.p. fuel surcharge). Very smooth crossing and glorious weather. Disappointed to

discover that boat returning at 15:00, earlier than usual. Did the guided walk

(NZ$5 p.p.) up the Wattle Track until lunchtime, seeing the majority of the target species, with the last one seen being the excellent Kokako. After a bit of lunch,

and a look round the visitor’s centre, we headed back down to the jetty, arriving

at about 14:30. A successful visit, the only disappointment being the lack of

Brown Teal on the pond near the jetty. We overnighted again at the Pinewood Caravan Park.

Kokako, Tiritiri Matangi Island

13th June - Drove into Auckland after breakfast to do some admin, shopping

and internet, then drove south to Thames. Did a food shop then parked up for the night at a boat ramp ca 15km north of Thames.

14th June - Morning light revealed a “No Camping” sign next to the van! After breakfast, we drove up to the Coromandel Forest and did the short trail up to

Edwards Lookout (no birds of interest). Then across to Miranda where we checked

in at the pleasant Miranda Holiday Park (NZ$38, although this included access to

a hot thermal pool). Afternoon at the Shorebird Centre, first at the sandspit ca 1.7km north of the Centre, then in the area of the hide around high tide. A very

satisfying afternoon, with excellent views of New Zealand Dotterel and

Wrybill.

NZ Dotterel, Miranda NZ Grebes, Rotorua

15th June - Following a dip in the pool at Miranda, we drove to Matamata where

EC did the Hobbiton tour while I waited in the campervan. We then drove to a

rest area near Rotorua for the night. No birding done today.

16th June - After breakfast, we drove to Rotorua, where an hour or so in the

vicinity of Govt House gave the needed birds (primarily NZ Grebe). Rest of the morning and early afternoon at the overpriced Te Puia (NZ$50 p p), for geysers,

display of Maori dancing and Kiwi house. After doing some shopping we had a

quick stop at Kerosene Creek, south of Rotorua, although decided not to get in as

drizzling and cold! We drove towards Taupo and again camped in a rest area.

17th June - Awoke to a drizzly morning, so abandoned plans to do a walk.

Headed to the Blue Duck site near Raehiti, arriving at 12:30. Had some lunch

and found a pair of the ducks after a while, 3.9km beyond the “main” bridge (where the road forks). We parked at S 39°18.643’ E 175°12.529’ and found

the birds by looking upriver. Very nice. We then headed south, stopping off in

Wangerei to do some shopping before overnighting in a rest area near Levin.

18th June - We drove to Wellington, did a bit of internet and then visited the Te

Papa museum (superb and also free). Overnighted at the Hutt Valley Top 10

Caravan Park (NZ$35). No birding done today.

19th June - We drove into town , paid for a car park until tomorrow morning (as

we were going to stay overnight before catching the ferry), and did a bit of emailing. Then in the afternoon I headed a few kms out of town to visit the

excellent Karori sanctuary, where I saw my first NZ Falcon, Kaka and the only

Brown Teals of the trip. EC stayed in Wellington to spend more time in the Te

Papa museum. In the evening, we went into town to watch the new Indiana Jones movie, followed by a pint and a curry before overnighting in the car park.

NZ Falcon, Karori Sanctuary Tomtit, Nelson Lakes

20th June - An early start for the 08:00 ferry to Picton (NZ$200 with Blueridge, one way including the camper van). I spent most of the journey on deck

seawatching, with a few decent seabirds including Westland Petrel, Fairy Prion

and White-capped Albatross as well as an unidentified large albatross. Nice

scenery as we passed through Marlborough Sound into Picton. Shopped in Picton, then drove to Nelson Lakes NP where we camped at Kerr Bay campsite (NZ$16),

and walked the short Honeydew Trail.

21st June - A very cold night - we had to switch the heater on at 03:30, and

there was ice inside the windscreen in the morning! Finally got ourselves up at

about 08:00, and embarked on the Roberts Ridge Circuit at about 10:00, finishing

at about 14:00. Magnificent scenery and a few birds, with another 1-2 NZ

Falcons and our first Brown Creepers being the most notable. We then drove to Westport, where we got fuel, and then struggled to find a suitable rest area -

eventually managing it ca 50km south of Westport, just north of Punakaiki.

22nd June - A very wet day, after a wet and windy night. After breakfast (during

which a Weka briefly appeared next to the van) we drove south after breakfast,

stopped in Greymouth to do a bit of shopping and call Ian Cooper to confirm the

plans for our Kiwi trip. Then drove on south to Okarito. We met Ian at 16:30 and, despite continuing rain and drizzle, decided to go ahead with the Kiwi trip. Glad

we did, as it proved to be a memorable experience. The Okarito Brown Kiwis

were first heard calling at ca 18:35, then seen shortly afterwards. The first pair

were seen well, heard “snuffling” and even seen mating!! A second pair were seen foraging along the path on the way back. The views were really superb and

the NZ$60 p p was very reasonable. I highly recommend booking a trip with Ian -

http://www.okaritokiwitours.co.nz. Back to the campsite for ca 20:30, for a bit of

wine and beer with tea. Rained most of the night.

23rd June - A dry morning, so I went out at 09:00 to the small pool at the south

end of Okarito village, between the houses and the dunes, to look for Fernbird. A

pair gave superb views in response to tape - a really excellent bird. Then after breakfast, we drove the short way to Franz Josef. Checked in at the Top 10

Holiday Park (NZ$35, but facilities excellent!). A relaxing afternoon of internet

and washing.

24th June - A lot of walking today, as we did the terminal face walks for both

http://www.okaritokiwitours.co.nz/

Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers, and the Matheson Lake walk near Fox. Only bird of

note was another NZ Falcon at Fox Village. Glaciers were nice but nowhere near

as impressive as the Moreno in Argentina. Overnighted at a rest area near Fox Village.

25th June - Drove down to Haast in torrential rain. Started up the Haast Pass Road, but ca 9km from top, snow began settling on the road and we had to turn

back. Waited at Thunder Falls for the road to clear. After a while we were given

the OK by the someone from the roads dept, but quickly got stuck again (along

with quite a few other people). At one point the van began to slide back down the road despite the handbrake being on! Fortunately just a few feet. We managed to

turn round, with difficulty, and headed back down to Haast for the night.

Overnighted at Haast Lodge (NZ$30) with a poor bottle of wine, some beers and

irish cream, and a few games of cards in the camper van.

26th June - Still raining in Haast, but fortunately (and slightly surprisingly) the

road to the pass was now clear of snow. We spent a very enjoyable couple of hours walking along the Historic Bridle Track at the pass, with ca 10 Rifleman

and up to 10 (although maybe the same 5 twice!) Yellowheads. A nice change

to see decent numbers of original native birds in their natural habitat -

magnificent ancient forest, laden with ice and snow. Very atmospheric. Then we

drove on towards Wanaka via a very scenic road. We tried without success to find a rest area near Wanaka, in the end admitting defeat and overnighting at the

Lakeview campsite (NZ$30). Fish and chips for tea.

Historic Bridle Track, Haast Pass Yellowhead, Haast Pass

27th June - Not one of the most productive days of the trip. Late start, bit of

internet in Wanaka and then drove south. We stopped in Queenstown but decided not to stay. Found a good rest area ca 30km south of Queenstown.

28th June - Drove south to Te Anau, in rather miserable weather. Milford road

was open but the situation was a bit unclear regarding whether snow chains were needed. We decided to forgo the chains as they would be $25-35 per day. In the

event, the road proved absolutely fine and we had no problems getting to Milford.

The scenery was really superb, and there was lots of snow around especially near

the Homer Tunnel. Our first Kea was seen at the western end of the tunnel. We parked up the van for the night at the very good Milford Lodge (NZ$36). At about

20:00, investigation of a strange noise outside the van revealed 3 rather sheepish

looking Keas on the ground next to me! One was quite unconcerned but the

others were a bit shyer and would run under the van before peeking out at me.

Absolutely terrific characters, and probably my favourite NZ bird.

29th June - Awoke to the sound of 2 Keas running up and down on the top of

the van! Leisurely start before cruise in Milford Sound (NZ$65 p p with Red Boat -

booked through the Lodge and including a free buffet that was normally NZ$29 p

p - result!). The cruise, from 11:00 - 12:45 was, as expected, very nice although

not mega birdy. Superb views of ca 15 Bottle-nosed Dolphins was the wildlife highlight. Then drove back towards Te Anau, with stops at The Chasm (2 more

Keas), Homer Tunnel for an abortive look for Rock Wren in 1.5 ft of snow (2

more Keas), and Lake Gunn Nature Walk, where Yellow-crowned Parakeet

eventually obliged. We camped at scenic Cascade Creek (NZ$5 p p) - one of the coldest nights of the trip!

Views from the Milford Sound Road

Milford Sound

Kea, near Milford Sound

30th June - Awake at 05:00, bitterly cold, so had a lengthy breakfast until dawn!

Then drove down to Invercargill via Te Anau and scenic route - no birds of note.

Then overnighted at the decent Invercargill Top 10 (NZ$30).

1st July - EC not feeling great today, so decided to take it easy at the caravan

park. I got roundly thrashed at Connect 4.

2nd July - EC thankfully feeling better today. Up early, and drove to Bluff (where

we parked the camper van) for 09:30 passenger ferry (NZ$55 p p one way) to

Stewart Island. On arrival at Oban we took the courtesy bus to the pleasant Jo

and Andy’s B & B (NZ$60 for a double). In the afternoon, we took the free bus tour and walk near Oban. Returned for a nice evening meal at the South Sea

Hotel. Bird highlights of the day were a couple of Black-fronted Terns at Bluff,

smart Stewart Island Shags at various locations, and 3 Brown Skuas during

the ferry crossing.

3rd July - After an excellent breakfast at the B & B, we took our pre-booked

water taxi from Golden Bay to Ulva Island (NZ$50 return) at 09:30. Spent about 4 hours on the island, walking most trails. No new birds but excellent views of a

good range of species, with 2 extremely obliging Wekas the highlight. I don’t

recall what we did this evening - might well have been the South Sea again!

4th July - Walk out to Acker’s Point after breakfast, then lunch in the South Sea,

accompanied by heavy rain and a bit of snow. Then took the 15:00 ferry back to

Bluff, completing an enjoyable visit to Stewart Island. The crossing was quite

rough, but thankfully no sea sickness. Collected the van and then returned to the Invercargill Top 10 for the night.

5th July - Headed east to the Catlins, although didn’t feel inclined to stop much due to the weather - cold, wet and windy. Got to Nugget Point at about 15:20 for

a productive half hour despite near-gale-force winds. On entering the hide, 3

Yellow-eyed Penguins were already sitting on the grassy hillside, and another

one emerged from the sea while we were there. Great birds. We then headed on to Balclutha, intending to stay the night, but the motor camp failed to meet ECs

notoriously high standards so it was on to Waihola, where we stayed at Lakeside

for NZ$24.

6th July - Drove up to Clyde, then decided to head on towards Omarama via the

scenic Lindis Pass. Good lunch of Eggs Benedict in Cromwell. Stopped for the

night at Omarama Top 10 (NZ$30). No birding today.

7th July - Up to Twizel, where we checked with the DOC Office for the latest

Black Stilt sightings. Then headed to Lake Poaka, and soon found a pair on the marshy pools at the western end. Very nice they were too. Then we headed

towards Mt Cook - it wasn’t looking too promising at first, with low cloud and lots

of snow, but it cleared and we were able to do the walk to Kea Point (where we

pointedly didn’t see any Keas!). Excellent scenery and we were able to express our creative side by making a snowman! Then back to Lake Tekapo where we

stayed at the expensive and crowded caravan park for (NZ$30).

8th July - A great walk in the morning, up to Mt John summit, and down via

Lakeshore. Superb panoramas of snow-covered mountains in all directions. This

was probably the most scenic walk we did in NZ. Only birds of interest were 10

Great-crested Grebes and ca 15 Black-billed Gulls on Lake Tekapo. After lunch from the bakery we then drove down to Duvauchelle, near Akaroa on the

Banks Peninsula, spending the night at the caravan park (NZ$24).

Lake Tekapo

9th July - Drove up to Akaroa, but motivation was running low, so we pressed on towards Christchurch via the scenic Banks Peninsula. The Pigeon Bay to Diamond

Bay road was a bit hairy in the campervan and not really recommended!

Overnight at Stonehurst in Christchurch (NZ$25). A few beers in town and a nice

meal at Dux de Lux.

10th July - Drove up to Arthur’s Pass. Checked with DOC for possible Rock Wren

sites - Otira Valley walk was suggested and they had been seen just yesterday! Needless to say we had no luck whatsoever (will have to go back one day and try

in spring I think). 12 Kea were seen along the roadside in the Arthur’s Pass area.

Then we drove back down and on towards Rangiora, where we stayed at the

Tourist Park for NZ$24.

11th July - Up to Hanmer Springs (NZ$12 p p) for a dip in the thermal pools.

Unfortunately it was overrun with school kids as it was the school holidays. Then

onwards to Kaikoura, where on arrival we booked our whale-watching trip for tomorrow, and the seabird trip for the day after. Overnight at the Alpine Pacific

(NZ$30, with 20% discount for 2nd night).

12th July - Out on Whalewatch Kaikoura trip (NZ$130 p p) from 10:30 - 13:30 -

successful with 4 Sperm Whales seen and a few seabirds. Subway for lunch,

then internet in the afternoon and a chilled pm. Overnight again at the Alpine Pacific.

13th July - Excellent Kaikoura pelagic on the morning from 09:00 - 12:00 (NZ$80 p p) with Gary from Ocean Wings. Weather at sea was calm and fine, and

we had magnificent views of many hundreds of seabirds, mostly at point-blank

range, with Wandering Albatross being the clear highlight. Also seen were 2

brilliant Hector’s Dolphins, many NZ Fur Seals and a brief distant Sperm Whale by EC. After a brief bit of internet and shopping we drove up to Picton

where we stayed at Waikawa for NZ$24.

Sperm Whale, Kaikoura Sperm Whale, Kaikoura

Hector’s Dolphin, Kaikoura Feeding frenzy, Kaikoura

Wandering Albatross, Kaikoura Black-browed Albatross, Kaikoura

Salvin’s Albatross, Kaikoura White-capped Albatross, Kaikoura

Buller’s Albatross, Kaikoura Northern Giant Petrel, Kaikoura

Westland Petrel, Kaikoura Cape Petrel, Kaikoura

14th July - 08:00 ferry back to Wellington (only NZ$192) - again a few seabirds but nothing new - then got slow puncture fixed at Hutt Bay for bargain NZ$20,

before driving on to Martinborough. Bit of wine-tasting (stingy measures

compared to Oz!) - bought an NZ$18 bottle. Then a good few drinks and dinner in

the Martinborough Hotel. Overnight at the village campsite (NZ$28).

15th July - Mainly a driving day. Rather hungover. Overnight in Stratford for

NZ$32, after trying and failing to find a suitable rest area.

16th July - Another day of mainly driving due to poor weather. Bit of time in

Puke Ariki museum in New Plymouth, followed by a visit to McDonald’s. Heading on to the Pureora area, we finally found a place to freecamp at the Pouakani

Totara Tree, ca 10km east of the Pureora turnoff on the Benneydale to Rotorua

road.

17th July - Fairly productive morning and early afternoon at Pureora (although

no new birds), then ended up driving all the way to Auckland as there was a lack

of rest areas en route. Overnight at Avondale Motor Camp (NZ$32).

18th - 20th July - Staying at Avondale, with a couple of visits in to Auckland.

21st July - Returned camper van, and then flew from Auckland to Papeete

(French Polynesia), crossing the date line so we arrived before we set off, and

had the 20th/21st twice!

Richard Rae, London, 2015

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF BIRDS SEEN IN NEW ZEALAND, JUNE - JULY 2008

Endemics are in upper case.

# denotes introduced, non-native species.

OKARITO BROWN KIWI Apteryx rowi

One of the highlights of the trip were the truly wonderful views of 2 pairs of this

species near Okarito on the evening of 22nd June. We even saw one of the pairs mating!

NEW ZEALAND GREBE (New Zealand Dabchick) Poliocephalus rufopectus

Only seen at Lake Rotorua, where 3 seen well from the car park at the end of the Government House “peninsula”.

Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus

10 at Lake Tekapo on 8th July.

YELLOW-EYED PENGUIN Megadyptes antipodes

4 at Nugget Point on 5th July.

Little (Blue) Penguin Eudyptula minor

2-3 from the boat as we neared Tiritiri Matangi on 12th June; 2 at Oban on 2nd July.

Wandering Albatross Diomedea exulans

ca 5 probable ‘Gibsons’ seen during the whale-watching trip off Kaikoura on 12th July; 4 ‘Gibsons’ and 1 ‘Antipodean seen during birding pelagic off Kaikoura on

13th July.

Royal Albatross Diomedea epomophora

One ‘Northern’ seen during birding pelagic off Kaikoura on 13th July.

Additionally, unidentified “big” albatrosses were seen on the Wellington to Picton ferry (1 on 20th June).

Black-browed Albatross Diomedea melanophris

2 seen during the whale-watching trip off Kaikoura on 12th July; 25 seen during birding pelagic off Kaikoura on 13th July; 2 seen from the Picton to Wellington

ferry on 14th June. All presumed to be ‘Subantactic’.

White-capped Albatross Diomedea cauta

ca 10 were seen from the Wellington to Picton ferry on 20th June; a few seen on crossing from Bluff to Stewart Island on 2nd July; 10+ seen during the whale-

watching trip off Kaikoura on 12th July; 18 seen during birding pelagic off

Kaikoura on 13th July; 2 seen from the Picton to Wellington ferry on 14th June.

Salvin’s Albatross Diomedea salvini

3 seen during birding pelagic off Kaikoura on 13th July.

Buller's Albatross Diomedea bulleri

2 from beach at Okarito on 23rd June; a few seen on crossing from Bluff to Stewart Island, and 6 in Oban Harbour, all on 2nd July; 10+ on crossing from

Stewart Island to Bluff on 4th July; 2+ seen during the whale-watching trip off

Kaikoura on 12th July; 17 seen during birding pelagic off Kaikoura on 13th July; 2

seen from the Picton to Wellington ferry on 14th June. All presumed to be ‘southern’.

Hall's (= Northern) Giant Petrel Macronectes halli


Additionally several Giant Petrels probably of this species were seen during the whale-watching trip off Kaikoura on the previous day, as well as 2 seen from the

Picton to Wellington ferry on 14th June.

Cape Petrel Daption capense

5+ from the Wellington to Picton ferry on 20th June; one seen on crossing from Bluff to Stewart Island on 2nd July; 25+ seen during the whale-watching trip off Kaikoura on 12th July; 500+ seen during birding pelagic off Kaikoura on 13th July

- mostly ‘northern’ but also a few whiter ‘southern’ birds; 25+ seen from the

Picton to Wellington ferry on 14th June

Fairy Prion Pachyptila turtur

ca 5 from the Wellington to Picton ferry on 20th June; one seen during the whale-watching trip off Kaikoura on 12th July; ca 15 seen during birding pelagic off

Kaikoura on 13th July, with excellent views obtained; 7 seen from the Picton to Wellington ferry on 14th June.

Westland Petrel Procellaria westlandica

One definite and several probables from the Wellington to Picton ferry on the 20th June; 2 seen during the whale-watching trip off Kaikoura on 12th July; one seen

during birding pelagic off Kaikoura on 13th July.

Fluttering Shearwater Puffinus gavial

Hundreds seen on the morning boat crossing from Gulf Harbour to Tiritiri Matangi on 12th June, although only a few on the return journey; 100+ from the Wellington to Picton ferry on 20th June; ca 5 seen during the whale-watching trip

off Kaikoura on 12th July; 100s seen from the Picton to Wellington ferry on 14th

June.

Hutton's Shearwater Puffinus huttoni


Additionally a few birds seen from the Wellington to Picton ferry on 20th June looked like candidates for this species to me, on account of their much darker

“armpits” than a standard Fluttering Shearwater.

Common Diving-Petrel Pelecanoides urinatrix

2 seen from the Wellington to Picton Ferry on 20th June; 2 seen during the whale-watching trip off Kaikoura on 12th July; 6 seen during birding pelagic off Kaikoura

on 13th July.

Australian Gannet Morus serrator

5+ on the boat to and from Tiritiri Matangi on 12th June; 1 at Miranda on 14th June; 1 on crossing from Stewart Island to Bluff on 4th July; 1 seen during

birding pelagic off Kaikoura on 13th July; 15+ seen from the Picton to Wellington ferry on 14th June.

Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos

Common and widespread.

Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax varius


Little Black Cormorant Phalacrocorax sulcirostris

2-3 on Lake Rotorua on 16th June.

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo


STEWART ISLAND SHAG Phalacrocorax chalconotus

A very smart cormorant.

ca 10 seen on 2nd July, at Bluff, on crossing from Bluff to Stewart Island and at Oban; ca 5 seen during visit to Ulva Island on 3rd July; 2 on crossing from

Stewart Island to Bluff on 4th July.

SPOTTED SHAG Phalacrocorax punctatus

Another handsome cormorant.

ca 12 on rocks in Marlborough sound, from the Wellington to Picton ferry on 20th June; 1 at Bluff and 5 at Oban on 2nd July; ca 10 seen during visit to Ulva Island

on 3rd July; 2 on crossing from Stewart Island to Bluff on 4th July; 1 seen during

the whale-watching trip off Kaikoura on 12th July; 800+ seen during birding

pelagic off Kaikoura on 13th July; 60+ seen from the Picton to Wellington ferry on

14th June.

#Black Swan Cygnus atratus

An introduced species, common on Lake Rotorua.

#Canada Goose Branta canadensis

80+ near Te Anau; common around Twizel.

PARADISE SHELDUCK Tadorna variegate

Common and widespread, particularly on the South Island.

BLUE DUCK Hymenolaimus malacorhynchus

After a bit of searching, we found a pair at the site near Raehiti. One of the pair could be seen to have a pale ring on its left leg. A subtle, attractive duck.

BROWN TEAL Anas aucklandica

3 reintroduced birds seen on the Lower Dam at the Karori Sanctuary in Wellington on 19th June.

#Mallard Anas platyrhynchos

An introduced species, common at wetland sites.

Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa

A few at Lake Rotorua on 16th June.

Australian Shoveler Anas rhynchotis

10+ at Miranda on 14th June. ca 10 on Lake Taupo on 17th June.

NEW ZEALAND SCAUP Aythya novaeseelandiae

Several thousand on Lake Rotorua on 16th June; 10+ on Lake Taupo on 17th June; ca 10 at the Karori Sanctuary in Wellington on 19th June; a few on lakes

near Queenstown on 27th June.

White-faced Heron Egretta novaehollandiae


Great White Egret Ardea alba

One at Okarito on 22nd June.

Royal Spoonbill Platalea regia

ca 15 at Miranda on 14th June.

Swamp Harrier Circus approximans


NEW ZEALAND FALCON Falco novaeseelandiae

Seen on a number of occasions. The first was an immature at the Karori Sanctuary in Wellington, which showed superbly in a tree between the two dams

on 19th June. 1-2 seen at Nelson Lakes NP on 21st June; one at Fox Village on 24th June.

#Ring-necked Pheasant Phasianus colchicus

An introduced species – one at the Coromandel Peninsula on 14th June, and one seen on 15th July (somewhere between Pureora and Auckland).

#Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus

Quite common as we were driving near Wangerei on 17th June.

WEKA Gallirallus australis

First seen next to our camper van as we were parked at a rest area just north of Punakaiki on 22nd June; only others were two that gave superb views on Ulva

Island on 3rd July.

Weka, Ulva Island Takahe, Tiritiri Matangi Island

Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio

Very common and widespread. One interesting (and rather unpleasant!) observation at Lake Rotorua on 16th June was of a bird trying to rip the tongue out of a dead NZ Scaup – it had the bird pinned down with one foot and was

trying to remove the tongue with its bill.

TAKAHE Porphyrio mantelli

8 reintroduced birds on Tiritiri Matangi on 12th June, all in the vicinity of the visitor’s centre. One (apparently called “Greg”) was particularly fearless and was

trying to steal people’s food.

Eurasian Coot Fulica atra

One at Lake Rotorua on 16th June.

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica

100+ at Miranda on 14th June.

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres

5+ at Miranda on 14th June.

Red Knot Calidris canutus

Hundreds at Miranda on 14th June.

Pied Oystercatcher Haematopus longirostris

Hundreds at Miranda on 14th June; ca 100 on visit to Ulva Island on 3rd July.

Variable Oystercatcher Haematopus unicolor

3 black birds near the jetty on Tiritiri Matangi on 12th June; 5-10 at Miranda on 14th June; 5+ near the Hutt Valley (Wellington) on 19th June; 4 on Stewart Island

on 2nd July; 1 seen during birding pelagic off Kaikoura on 13th July.

Black-winged Stilt (Pied Stilt in NZ) Himantopus himantopus

Hundreds at Miranda on 14th June.

BLACK STILT Himantopus novaezelandiae

2 birds found on pools at west end of Lake Poaka on 7th July.

NEW ZEALAND DOTTEREL Charadrius obscures

2 from the hide at Miranda on 14th June. One was in full summer plumage which was a bit of a surprise given the time of year. The other was only seen from the rear so I am unsure what plumage it was in. A lovely bird.

WRYBILL Anarhynchus frontalis

Thousands at Miranda on 14th June, with excellent views obtained from the hide. These were the only ones seen.

Masked Lapwing (known as Spur-winged Plover in NZ) Vanellus miles


Kelp Gull (known as Black-backed Gull in NZ) Larus dominicanus


Silver Gull (Red-billed Gull in NZ) Larus novaehollandiae


BLACK-BILLED GULL Larus bulleri

ca 45 at Miranda on 14th June, on the sandspit north of the shorebird centre; ca 15 at Lake Tekapo on 8th July; many seen during birding pelagic off Kaikoura on

13th July.

BLACK-FRONTED TERN Chlidonias albostriatus

1-2 at Bluff on 2nd July; 5 over fields between Hanmer Springs and Kaikoura on 11th July; 5+ seen during the whale-watching trip off Kaikoura on 12th July (mainly in front of the whale-watching office); one seen during birding pelagic off

Kaikoura on 13th July; one seen from the Picton to Wellington ferry on 14th June.

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia

2 near Thames on 13th June; 5 at Miranda on 14th June; one seen during birding pelagic off Kaikoura on 13th July; 6 seen from the Picton to Wellington ferry on

14th June.

White-fronted Tern Sterna striata

One on the boat crossing from Gulf Harbour to Tiritiri Matangi on 12th June; ca 5 from the Wellington to Picton ferry on 20th June; 50+ seen during the whale-

watching trip off Kaikoura on 12th July (mostly on rocks by marina); ca 15 seen during birding pelagic off Kaikoura on 13th July; 20+ seen from the Picton to

Wellington ferry on 14th June.

Brown Skua Catharacta lonnbergi

3 on crossing from Bluff to Stewart Island on 2nd July.

NEW ZEALAND PIGEON Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae

Proved to be reasonably common and widespread.

KEA Nestor notabilis

One of the highlights of the trip - incredible birds.

One at the Homer Tunnel on 28th June, with 3 around and under(!) the camper van later that day while parked at Milford Lodge. On the following day, 2 were

running up and down on top of the camper van, 2 were seen at The Chasm car

park, and 2 were seen at the Homer Tunnel. Finally, ca 12 were seen between Arthur’s Pass village and the Viaduct lookout on 10th July.

KAKA Nestor meridionalis

Another charismatic endemic parrot.

The north island race ‘septentrionalis’ was seen at the Karori Sanctuary (where reintroduced), with 5+ seen superbly on special feeders; also 2 ‘original’ birds at

Pureora on 17th July.

The south island race ‘meridionalis’ was common on Stewart and Ulva Island on 2nd - 4th July.

# Eastern Rosella Platycercus eximius

An introduced Australian species – ca 5 near Thames on 14th June; 3 at Pureora on 17th July.

RED-FRONTED PARAKEET Cyanoramphus novaezelandiae

10+ reintroduced birds on Tiritiri Matangi on 12th June; 10-15 (reintroduced?) birds on Ulva Island on 3rd July; 2 (reintroduced?) birds along Ackers Point walk,

near Oban, on 4th July.

YELLOW-FRONTED PARAKEET Cyanoramphus auriceps

Proved quite a hard bird to pin down - eventually good views of a pair at Lake Gunn Nature Walk on 29th June. A further bird seen at Pureora with a Whitehead

flock on 17th July.

Also a (reintroduced?) pair on Ulva Island on 3rd July, with Brown Creeper flock.

Sacred Kingfisher Todirhamphus sanctus


RIFLEMAN Acanthisitta chloris

ca 10 of nominate race chloris (‘South Island Rifleman) at Haast Pass on 26th June. One reintroduced bird was briefly glimpsed on Ulva Island on 3rd July.

Exquisite little characters.

GREY GERYGONE (Grey Warbler) Gerygone igata

Seen in small numbers at a variety of locations on North and South Islands.

STITCHBIRD Notiomystis cincta

Only seen on Tiritiri Matangi on 12th June, where reintroduced. ca 5 males and 2-3 females were seen.

NEW ZEALAND BELLBIRD Anthornis melanura

Very common on Tiritiri Matangi on 12th (where reintroduced), with 20+ seen; 2 reintroduced birds seen at the Karori Sanctuary in Wellington on 19th June.

Original birds seen at several sites on South Island and 2 at Pureora (North Island) on 17th July.

TUI Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae

One of the few common and widespread native passerines, this striking species was encountered regularly, being especially abundant on Tiritiri Matangi on 12th

June.

KOKAKO Callaeas cinerea

Superb views of a reintroduced pair near the visitor’s centre on Tiritiri Matangi on 12th June was the highlight of our visit to that island.

SADDLEBACK Creadion carunculatus

Northern race rufusater (‘North Island Saddleback’) very common on Tiritiri Matangi on 12th (where reintroduced), with 15+ seen. One reintroduced bird seen at the Karori Sanctuary in Wellington on 19th June.

Southern race carunculatus (‘South Island Saddleback’) 8-10 reintroduced birds on Ulva Island on 3rd July.

TOMTIT Petroica macrocephala

Common and widespread on South Island, but always nice to see. Also 3 ‘North island’ birds seen at Pureora on 17th July.

NEW ZEALAND ROBIN Petroica australis

5+ reintroduced of race longipes (‘North Island Robin’) on Tiritiri Matangi on 12th June, where they were ridiculously tame; one male of race australis (‘South Island Robin’) near Okarito on 22nd June; 4 reintroduced of race rakiura

(‘Stewart Island Robin’) on Ulva Island on 3rd July.

WHITEHEAD Mohoua albicilla

5-10 reintroduced birds on Tiritiri Matangi on 12th June; ca 25 ‘original’ birds seen at Pureora on 17th July.

YELLOWHEAD Mohoua ochrocephala

Two groups of ca 5 (or possibly same group twice) gave brilliant views in response to tape at Haast Pass on 26th June. Delightful.

PIPIPI (Brown Creeper) Mohoua novaeseelandiae

ca 20 seen at Nelson Lakes NP on 21st June; ca 5 at Haast Pass on 26th June; 10+ (reintroduced?) on Ulva Island on 3rd July.

Somewhat reminiscent (to me at least!) of Lesser Whitethroat.

Grey Fantail (New Zealand Fantail in NZ) Rhipidura fuliginosa


#Rook Corvus frugilegus

One between Raehiti and Wangerei on 17th June; 4 between Martinborough and

Stratford on 15th July.

#Australasian Magpie Gymnorhina tibicen

A common introduced species.

#Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula


#Song Thrush Turdus philomelos


#European Starling Sturnus vulgaris


#Common Myna Acridotheres tristis


Welcome Swallow Hirundo neoxena

1-2 on 12th June, several around Miranda on 14th June.

Silver-eye Zosterops lateralis


FERNBIRD Megalurus punctatus

A definite highlight of the trip was superb views of a pair of this skulker, at the pool near Okarito village on 23rd (nominate race punctatus, ‘South Island

Fernbird’). They responded well to tape. An engaging and primitive-looking

species.

#Sky Lark Alauda arvensis

2 at Gulf Harbour on 12th June.

#House Sparrow Passer domesticus


New Zealand (= Australasian) Pipit Anthus novaeseelandiae

One a Nelson Lakes on 21st June; one at Kaikoura on 12th July.

#Dunnock Prunella modularis


#Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs


#European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris

An introduced species – one seen while driving on 20th June.

#European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis


#Lesser Redpoll Carduelis cabaret

3 along Ackers Point walk, near Oban, on 4th July; ca 5 Lake Tekapo on 8th July; 2 between Martinborough and Stratford on 15th July.

#Yellowhammer Emberiza citronella


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