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thewinesociety.com/finewines

2 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222 smartphone app

Casting a clout ere May is out is a matter of personal choice, but summer must surely come during the currency of this List. So warming reds join finer-boned classics and sun-kissed whites, with grower Champagnes for the coming season, and cellaring prospects for seasons to come. All are offered, as ever, with our passion not for the predictable and the collectible, but for the delectable – and affordable.

How to use this List● Wines are listed by theme and then by price

● Drink dates are given as a guide to maturity and ageing potential

● For further information about any of the wines please contact Member Services on 01438 741177

● Fine wines too limited in quantity to be listed may be found in the fine wine section of The Society’s website at thewinesociety.com/finewine

FINE WINE FOR FINE WEATHER

COME ON YOU WHITES PAGE 3

Any feature on fine Italian wine is invariably dominated by reds and it’s time the balance was redressed with a top-to-toe trawl of the most gastronomic whites the Boot has to offer, including two of the best Soaves money can buy.

BEYOND THE ‘JUDGEMENT OF PARIS’ PAGE 4

At the legendary blind tasting of 1976 in Paris, the Golden State upstaged the gold standards of France, but like Christian Moueix, we embrace both sides of the Pond with delight. Join him and other fine producers including Ridge, Au Bon Climat and Louis Jadot.

BACK TO THE LAND: GROWER CHAMPAGNE PAGE 6

Bottling the harvest rather than selling it to the big houses is the brave option pursued by a number of Champenois. Earlier this year, their success led to The Society’s first-ever tasting dedicated to the diversity of terroir rather than the impressive consistency of a house blend.

NOW WE ARE FIVE: BURGUNDY 2009 PAGE 7

‘A warm vintage’ we said at the time ‘producing opulent, sensual and hedonistic wines of great appeal’ and ‘difficult to go wrong’. Five growers including Domaine Dujac demonstrate how well it’s turned out.

REIGN IN SPAIN PAGE 8

Ribero del Duero and Catalunya may be vying for parity with Rioja as Spain’s go-to fine wine area but what wine-lover would consider three a crowd? Our royal flush includes Clos Mogador, Viña Pedrosa, Matallana, Cosme Palacio, and La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva.

SOUTH AFRICA: SOME OF OUR BEST FAMILIES PAGE 9

Sounding more Xhosa celebration than matter-of-fact acronym, PIWOSA, the newly formed association of Premium Independent Wineries of South Africa also stands proudly for diversity, sustainability and ethical farming. For all this in a glass as well as good wine, much of it new to The Society.

LATERAL DRINKING: SMALL WONDERS PAGE 11

A peek behind the grand vin, a mission to the satellite, not the mother planet, a healthy disregard for appellation rules and a focus on the unexpected fill two pages with irresistible sub-£20 bottles before you can say ‘Chakalaka’.

CLARET: 2004 – TEN YEARS ON PAGE 14

After the heatwave of 2003, normal service was resumed with the arrival of the restrained, classically proportioned 2004s. Bordeaux buyer Joanna Locke MW selects some choice examples.

DARK HORSES: FULL REDS FOR FINE WEATHER PAGE 15

Can a strong, deeply coloured red wine be the perfect summer drink? Five grapes and ten wines, including Meerlust Merlot and Mas de Daumas Gassac, offer a balanced view and upmarket barbecue heaven.

SEYSSUEL: GOLD IN THEM THAR HILLS? PAGE 16

The vineyards of Vienne may be unknown compared with those of Côte-Rôtie, but fans of the latter have three new best friends in Pierre Gaillard, Yves Cuilleron and François Villard, whose transformation of the long-abandoned slopes around Seyssuel is the Rhône scoop of the List.

EXHIBITING THE NEW WORLD PAGE 17

From a very small presence in the Great Exhibition of 1874, the new world is now a mainstay of The Society’s Exhibition range. Sample six highlights in a mixed case.

CUSTOM CELLARS: CAPTURING A PIECE OF HERMITAGE PAGE 18

The spotlight is on revitalised Rhône institution Paul Jaboulet Aîné, and an unprecedented archive selection of La Chapelle and Thalabert vintages to lay down for future enjoyment.

CONTENTS

3For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

xxREDRESSING THE BALANCE: FINE ITALIAN WHITES

The most exciting developments of the vibrant Italy wine renaissance, in which so many members are participating, have been in white wine. Pieropan has, of course, been a shining light in Soave for 50 years, and Antinori’s innovative winemaker, Tachis, was another great force for good in Tuscany, while Hofstätter in the Alpine climate of Alto Adige has long been famous for pinot bianco, as well as nero. Much more recently, the Vajra family has brought deft skill to the white wines of Piedmont, and we have begun to rediscover the potential of the individual whites of Mount Etna, while the creative Planeta family has successfully introduced fiano to Sicily. Top-quality verdicchio remains one of the great-value wines of Italy. Home cooking to exacting standards is a proud Italian tradition, and all the wines here deserve and work beautifully with good ingredients, simply or elaborately prepared. Sebastian Payne MW

J-IT17731 Dragon Langhe Bianco, Luigi Baudana 2011 £9.95 bottle £119 dozen

A beautifully balanced lightly oaked fragrant chardonnay with good body and fresh clean palate. Made by Giuseppe Vajra in Serralunga, Barolo country, this is an excellent alternative to Chablis. Now to 2016. 14%

J-IT17901 Etna Bianco Fondo Filara, Nicosia 2012 £11.95 bottle £143 dozen

Less white is made on Etna but it is very fine with haunting apple and hawthorn aroma and full bone-dry flavour. A good match for a shellfish risotto. Now to 2017. 13%

J-IT18261 Bramito del Cervo Chardonnay, Castello della Sala 2013 £12.50 bottle £150 dozen

An exceptionally attractive barrel-fermented but not excessively oaky alternative to white Burgundy, made in Umbria with all the know-how and experience of the Antinori team. A modern match for the retro, but classic, combination of properly ripe melon and top-flight Parma ham. Now to 2016. 12.5%

J-IT17681 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico, Le Giuncare 2010 £13.50 bottle £162 dozen

Top-quality verdicchio with full body, fine ripe bouquet and satisfyingly long-lasting flavour. Lovely with an Adriatic fish stew, packed with mullet, squid, garlic, saffron and herbs. Now to 2017. 13.5%

J-IT18281 Greco di Tufo Devon, Antonio Cassiono 2013 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

Arresting bouquet with touches of exotic fruits and peach and almond tree flowers, above all, a fine full balanced flavour. Try with an authentic Neapolitan tricolore with the best buffalo mozzarella you can find, a perfectly ripe avocado and good, sweet tomatoes. Now to 2016. 14%

J-IT16731 Calvarino, Pieropan 2010 £16 bottle £192 dozen

This is fine, elegant Soave with a delicately floral aroma and a crisp, savoury palate redolent of ripe apple and peach. A perfect aperitif, or serve with a light, fresh, summer vegetable dish like risi e bisi (risotto with peas). Now to 2018. Low stock. 12.5%

J-IT18291 Pinot Bianco Villa Barthenau, Hofstätter 2012 £16 bottle £192 dozen

Hofstätter are famous for their pinot bianco, which is finer and more stylish than most people’s chardonnay. Ripe and full but beautifully balanced, it can handle richer seafood like crab and lobster. Now to 2017. 14%

J-IT18061 Cometa, Sicilia, Planeta 2012 £22.50 bottle £270 dozen

With an intriguing aroma reminiscent of lychees, mandarins and Mediterranean herbs, this full, dry, satisfying Sicilian white made from the fiano grape. The perfect bottle for tuna, slowly confit in olive oil with bay leaves, lemons and a dried chilli or two. Now to 2018. 13%

J-IT18251 La Rocca, Pieropan 2011 £23.50 bottle £282 dozen

Probably the finest of Soaves, with rich, opulent, full but dry flavour that can age well and beautifully. This is pure garganega, grown on the only limestone outcrop in the zone and fermented in wood to allow the aromas to evolve rather than influence the flavour. An elegant partner for noble fish, seafood and fowl. Now to 2020. 13%

See overleaf for the Fine Italian Whites Case

is

4 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222 smartphone app

WHITESJ-US5511 Au Bon Climat Los Alamos Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 £20 bottle £240 dozen

Top-class Californian chardonnay from Jim Clendenen, with lovely fragrance, creamy lemony flavour and gentle, round texture. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-US5521 Au Bon Climat Sanford and Benedict Chardonnay 2010 £24 bottle £288 dozen

The gently undulating vineyard area in Santa Barbara County is as good as it gets for Burgundian varieties, owing to the unusual east-west configuration of the Santa Ynez Valley, which channels cooling Pacific breezes straight from the ocean. Broad, yet classy and complex chardonnay with superb length and balance. A first-rate example. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-BU44181 Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2007 £42 bottle £504 dozen

Taut and tense, Jean-Marc Brocard’s Les Clos is a pure, linear wine of great length of flavour and striking minerality. Quintessential Chablis. Now to 2017. 12.5%

J-BU48601 Louis Jadot, Duc de Magenta Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru £49 bottle £588 dozen Morgeot, Clos de La Chapelle 2009 Morgeot has a tendency to produce rather broad and blunt white wines, but Jadot

always fashion a rich but balanced wine with considerable finesse. This is a round, buttery wine, with oatmealy overtones and a deep, concentrated palate which finishes with lift and freshness. It should develop more honeyed and toasty notes with time. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-BU49351 Domaine Henri Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos £59 bottle £708 dozen de la Mouchère 2010 Firm, fine, mineral wine of exceptional density of texture from 70-year-old vines planted

on low-vigour rootstock. This is remarkably good. Now to 2018. 13.5%

Ridge Estate Chardonnay 2011 Beautifully integrated oak and the mineral streak typical of this great vineyard are

immediately apparent, enveloped in generous, gently honeyed fruit. A fine white from a producer of iconic reds. Now to 2017. 14% Only available as part of the mixed case J-MX1490.

xBEST OF BOTH WORLDS A JUDGEMENT CALL

When France presented the USA with the first instalment (the right arm) of the Statue of Liberty in 1876, it’s a safe bet that the kind of liberty the benefactor had in mind was not to have its wines trounced in a blind tasting by those of California a century later. The famous ‘Judgement of Paris’ tasting, organised by that most English (and brave) of Parisian wine merchants, Steven Spurrier, was even replicated in 2006 to examine French claims that the interlopers from over the pond were too eager to please, and that in time, the twin truths of tradition and terroir would out. Inconveniently, California triumphed again.

For members who think comparisons, even those that shake the wine world, are odious, the small but very classy selection below is offered without prejudice or judgement, Parisian or otherwise. Form your own conclusions, and enjoy every drop. Janet Wynne Evans

FINE ITALIAN WHITES CASE £75

Drink now to 2016

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Bramito del Cervo Chardonnay, Castello della Sala 2013Dragon Langhe Bianco, Luigi Baudana 2011Etna Bianco Fondo Filara, Nicosia 2012Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico, Le Giuncare 2010Pinot Bianco Villa Barthenau, Hofstätter 2012Greco di Tufo Devon, Antonio Cassiono 2013

Ref J-MX1491

5For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

REDSJ-US5231 Frog’s Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 £29 bottle £348 dozen

Frog’s Leap aims for elegance and balance rather than power. This smoky, blackberry-infused cabernet, organically produced in the heart of Napa’s Rutherford district, is quietly firm in structure, velvety in texture and layered with complex fruit flavours. Decant before serving to let them evolve. Now to 2022. 13.5%

J-CM12551 Croix de Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien 2006 £32 bottle £384 dozen

Strict selection in the vineyard has made the second wine of Ducru Beaucaillou a claret of classed-growth quality. In 2006, the blend is equal parts cabernet and merlot. Supremely stylish with sappy fruit and a lovely, cedary bouquet. Now to 2018. 13%

J-CM15731 Château Lynch-Moussas, Pauillac 2002 £37 bottle £444 dozen

This cabernet-rich Pauillac from low yields needed a decade to open up but is now absolutely splendid, as a recent blind tasting of the vintage showed. Proper claret, well rounded and well balanced. Delightful. Now to 2020. 12.5%

J-CM11481 Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc 2006 £39 bottle £468 dozen

This property is making one of the loveliest and most approachable clarets of all these days, with fragrant, spicy fruit, body and charm. The blend is 55% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot and 10% petit verdot. Now to 2030. 13%

J-US5311 Napanook 2009 £42 bottle £504 dozen

Made from fruit grown on the eponymous Yountville estate, Napanook is described by proprietor Christian Moueix as a more informal wine than its big brother, Dominus, made for younger drinking with friends and food. A blend of 87% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot and 8% petit verdot in 2009, its approachability overlays the same impressive precision and the Moueix mantra of elegance rather than power. Now to 2020. 14.5%

J-US5261 Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 £65 bottle £780 dozen

Lovely generosity here with complex, black fruit and sweet vanilla nose which opens up in the glass developing enticing tobacco and leather aromas. Firm but ripe tannins on the palate are balanced by the intense cassis, cedar and blackberry flavours which are all present on the long warm finish. A great example of sophisticated American Cabernet which could be enjoyed now but will develop wonderfully for at least a decade. Now to 2024. 13%

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS WHITES £225

Drink now to 2016

A six-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Ridge Estate Chardonnay 2011Au Bon Climat Los Alamos Vineyard Chardonnay 2011Au Bon Climat Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay 2011Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2007Louis Jadot, Duc de Magenta Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot, Clos de La Chapelle 2009Domaine Henri Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos de la Mouchère 2010

Ref J-MX1490

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS REDS £239

Drink now to 2018

A six-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Frog’s Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009Napanook 2009 Château Lynch-Moussas, Pauillac 2002 Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc 2006 La Croix de Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien 2006

Ref J-MX1486

6 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222 smartphone app

REDJ-CH2271 Bouzy Rouge, Benoît Lahaye 2007 £25 bottle £300 dozen

Benoît Lahaye is president of the Bouzy syndicate and takes great pride in this famous if somewhat neglected Champagne appellation. Made from 100% pinot, all from the village of Bouzy, and aged in barrel for over a year, this is has finesse and real flavour. One of the best still wines from Champagne we know. Drink this fine, delicate red over this year and next. 12%

ROSÉJ-CH2771 NEW Bérèche Campania Remensis Brut Rosé NV £49 bottle £294 six

A delicate, bone-dry pink Champagne with lovely, cherry-like fruit, from the Montagne de Reims and made from a majority of red grapes. 12%

WHITESJ-CH2681 Jeaunaux-Robin, Sélection Extra-Brut NV £22 bottle £132 six

This delightful dry Champagne, made principally from pinot meunier and vinified in oak ,is fruity, full and long on the palate. 12%

J-CH2391 Bérèche et Fils Brut NV £26 bottle £156 six Raphael Bérèche is an up-and-coming grower from Ludes, just to the south of Reims.

Very chalky soils gives an austere edge to the wines and a certain minerality. This is made from equal proportions of chardonnay and pinots noir and meunier and tastes clean, very fine and long. 12%

J-CH2101 Benoît Lahaye, Brut Essentiel NV £29 bottle £174 six From a perfectionist grower in Bouzy, this is an outstanding pinot-chardonnay blend

showing great class and precision. 12%

J-CH2661 Corbon Vintage Brut, Avize Grand Cru 2002 £45 bottle £270 six Agnès Corbon makes this wonderful, full-flavoured chardonnay from grand cru vines in

the village of Avize. Now to 2017. 12%

J-CH2791 Laherte Frères, Les 7 £45 bottle £270 six Dry, full Champagne from a single patch of vineyard where all seven Champagne grape

varieties are planted together. Very complex and long. 12.5%

GROWER CHAMPAGNE

Grower Champagne is not about the big houses but rather about those smallholders with the passion, desire and talent to go it alone and make their own wine. In many cases these wines come from older vines, often organically or biodynamically grown and then made very traditionally using oak for the initial fermentation. The results are wines with character, body and concentration of flavour. This crop inspired The Society’s first tasting of grower Champagne for members in March this year. We hope you enjoy them, as we did. Marcel Orford-Williams

THREE EXCEPTIONAL £139 GROWER CHAMPAGNES

Drink this year and next

A three-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Bérèche Campania Remensis Brut Rosé NVCorbon Vintage Brut Avize Grand Cru 2002Laherte Frères, Les 7

Ref J-MX1481

TRIO OF GROWER £75 CHAMPAGNES

Drink this year and next

A three-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Jeaunaux-Robin, Sélection Extra-Brut NV Benoît Lahaye Brut Essentiel NV Bérèche et Fils Brut NV

Ref J-MX1480

7For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

2009 RED BURGUNDY CASE £209

Drink now to 2017

A six-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the wines listed above.

Ref J-MX1492

J-BU47091 Jean-Marc & Anne-Marie Vincent, Santenay Rouge Premier Cru £24 bottle £288 dozen Passetemps 2009 A broad, rich, meaty pinot, ample and soothing from a premier cru vineyard planted to

14,000 vines per hectare (10,000 is standard) which encourages deeper rooting of the plants and a smaller yield per plant which is beneficial for quality but increases the grower’s workload. Now to 2018. 13%

J-BU46951 Louis Jadot, Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru Vergelesses 2009 £24 bottle £288 dozen

Fresh, linear Burgundy with sappy fruit from a premier cru on the communal border with Pernand, known for polished, elegant pinot noir. Now to 2017. 13.5%

J-BU46341 Domaine de Bellene, Beaune Premier Cru Teurons 2009 £32 bottle £384 dozen

Sweet, rounded fruity Beaune from a premier cru in the heart of the commune that delivers elegant, supple wines. Now to 2017. 13.5%

J-BU46321 Domaine de Bellene, Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes 2009 £35 bottle £420 dozen

Global warming has been good for Nuits-Saint-Georges, especially this old-vine bottling from vineyards north of the village making softer sweeter wines. This has lovely density of fruit for a village wine. Now to 2017. 13.5%

J-BU47481 Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin en Pallud 2009 £42 bottle £504 dozen

The Maume style is generous and fruit-forward. En Pallud is a lieu-dit rather than a premier cru, but a very well-placed and perfectly exposed one, with mature vines that add concentration. Now to 2022. 13.5%

J-BU48941 Domaine Dujac, Morey Saint-Denis 2009 £55 bottle £660 dozen

The poise and polish we expect from the perfectionist Seysses family are here from the seductively perfumed, true pinot nose to the layers of quietly persistent, never intrusive flavour on the palate. A class act, worth keeping a little while longer, and certainly good for five years or so. Now to 2020. 13%

xx2009 RED BURGUNDY FIVE YEARS ON

2009 is a lovely, ripe vintage. Warm weather allowed the grapes to reach full maturity without toppling over into an over-ripe style. Terroirs are well delineated, each tasting as it should. Both Côtes Beaune and Nuits were successful. The Vincents are making very impressive wines in Santenay, rich, full and dense. The secret, as ever, is low yields and in the case of Passetemps, low yields per vine too. Bellene’s Teurons is soft and round, and Jadot’s rich style and long vatting is suited to ripe fruit. Nuits-Saint-Georges has never been better, its tannins are sweet and contribute structure without dryness, and Bellene’s old-vine bottling is exceptionally good. Maume’s late-harvested rich style of Gevrey is so easy to like and Domaine Dujac’s wines offer considerable sophistication. Toby Morrhall

8 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222 smartphone app

J-SP8021 La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva, Rioja 2001 £32 bottle £384 dozen

One of the great Riojas and one of the few to be offered after four years in cask and proper bottle age in the classic tradition which has allowed it to develop stunning bouquet and fine, long-lasting flavour. Now to 2021. 12.5%

J-SP5851 Cosme Palacio 1894, Rioja 2007 £35 bottle £420 dozen

Rare Rioja made from very old-vine tempranillo and graciano in the Rioja Alavesa, just outside the walls of the fortified hill town of Laguardia. Elegant, cedary and just hitting its stride. Now to 2017. 13.5%

J-SP4301 Matallana, Ribera del Duero 2005 £49 bottle £588 dozen

Sumptuous Ribera made from very ripe fruit, with an opulent, precociously enjoyable palate generously scented with vanillin oak from 15 months in high-quality barrels. Now to 2025. 14.5%

J-SP5811 Clos Mogador, Priorat 2007 £49 bottle £588 dozen

René Barbier’s 2007 is a real success, showing incredible depth and concentration. Elegant yet bold, this expresses the tarry, herby, cassis flavours and velvety tannins of top-flight Priorat. Now to 2019. 14.5%

J-SP4211 Clos Mogador, Priorat 2004 £59 bottle £708 dozen

2004 is a superb year for Clos Mogador. This is perfectly balanced wine, just emerging from its shell, still inky in colour, with an intense bouquet of Christmas-pudding fruits plumped up in alcohol, and the familiar Mogador buzz of liquorice underlying the palate. Now to 2016. 14.5%

Viña Pedrosa Reserva, Ribera del Duero 2005 A beautifully classy Ribera with authentic flavour and exotic fruit. Pedrosa use 10%

cabernet sauvignon which gives the wine a wonderful velvety texture. Decant at least two hours in advance. Now to 2017. 14% Only available as part of the mixed case J-MX1485.

SPAIN’S TOP THREE: PRIORAT, RIBERA AND RIOJA

Spain’s leading wine regions are producing finer wines than ever. In Rioja, the leading bodegas are applying new advances in technology to improve quality without losing the inherent character and mellow style for which their classic wines are famous. Both Ribera del Duero and Priorat, who share an ambition to be the country’s ‘other’ pre-eminent denominación, produce bold wines that rest their reputation on elegance and intensity of flavour. Ribera, north of Madrid, enjoys a continental climate with fiercely hot summers, tempered by the high elevation of its best vineyards. Here, tinto fino (tempranillo) yields its most focused wines, beautifully balanced by lively acidity and velvety tannins. The Mediterranean climate of Priorat is perfect for garnacha, carignan (known locally as samso) and syrah: the tiny yields from these dramatic terraced vineyards produce powerful yet fine reds of immense concentration. Pierre Mansour

RIOJA, PRIORAT AND RIBERA £249 MIXED CASE

Drink now to 2016

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the wines listed above.

Ref J-MX1485

9For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

WHITESJ-SA9441 Cederberg Ghost Corner The Bowline, Elim 2013 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

Fifth generation David Nieuwoudt bought land in the Elim ward in 2008 and the resulting wines carry the Ghost Corner label. Sauvignon blanc with barrel-fermented semillon, the maiden 2012 vintage earned five stars in Platter’s and the 2013 is full of promise too, showing restraint, fine texture and freshness. Now to 2017. 13.5%

J-SA9501 Ataraxia Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge 2013 £18 bottle £216 dozen

Ataraxia is owned – and the wines are made – by Kevin Grant, who established his name in the Walker Bay area as winemaker at Hamilton Russell. He is best known for this Burgundian-influenced, fleshy and generous chardonnay that seduces with texture and length. Now to 2017. 13.5%

J-SA9531 Jordan Estate Nine Yards Chardonnay, Stellenbosch 2013 £23 bottle £276 dozen

Gary and Kathy Jordan’s flagship chardonnay combines vineyard and barrel selection and is consistently one of South Africa’s best. Just released, this will benefit from a little time in bottle to develop its typical citrus, spicy, butterscotch and toasty flavour spectrum. Now to 2018. 13.5%

J-SA9551 Ken Forrester The FMC Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2012 £32 bottle £384 dozen

The top chenin from perhaps the most famous producer of the grape, made in partnership with Martin Meinert (‘Forrester Meinert Chenin’). Naturally fermented in new oak barrels this is an opulent and toasty wine, sufficiently rich and characterful to satisfy its many fans. Now to 2016. 13.5%

Shannon Semillon, Elgin 2012 Shannon is relatively recent vineyard in the new region Elgin but has a long and

impressive client list for its grapes. Semillon was planted here from day one but this is a first release, still deserving of a little time in bottle but already showing bright citrus and apricot fruit with lovely freshness. Now to 2017. 13% Only available as part of the mixed case J-MX1483 (page 11).

xxSOUTH AFRICA: A FAMILY AFFAIR

Premium Independent Wineries of South Africa (PIWOSA)Formed only in 2013, with the blessing of Wines of South Africa (who know a good vehicle for promoting South African wines when they see one), PIWOSA is a happy band of like-minded independent family producers who all figure among the Cape’s best. In addition, they aim to set a benchmark for the ethical and sustainable production of quality South African wine and that they also carry the endorsement of the industry’s ethical and environmental bodies WIETA and IPW contributes to the warm glow.

‘Together we represent the incredible diversity that is seen across the Premium South African wine industry today,’ says current chairman Rollo Gabb (Journey’s End). Our space inevitably limited, here we feature one outstanding example from each of the 15 founding PIWOSA members, wines either completely new to us or the latest vintage available. Joanna Locke MW

10 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222 smartphone app

RED SJ-SA9471 Mulderbosch Faithful Hound, Stellenbosch 2011 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

Flavour-packed Bordeaux blend incorporating all five classic varieties, with cabernet franc in the lead (45%) following a familiar trend. Almost 70% new oak brings extra spice and complexity. Now to 2017. 14%

J-SA9481 Paul Cluver Pinot Noir, Elgin 2012 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

This cool valley has been the home of the Cluver family since 1896. Paul Senior was the first to plant grapes here and has long been a champion of conservation, having practised sustainable farming since 1970. Pinot noir is a speciality, representing over 25% of plantings, here with just 20% new oak to ensure brightness of fruit. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-SA9421 Raats Cabernet Franc, Stellenbosch 2011 £16 bottle £192 dozen

Winemaker Bruwer Raats is known both for chenin blanc and for cabernet franc, and was one of the first to bottle this increasingly popular and sought-after grape as a single varietal, from the 2001 vintage. A complex, cedary red with gravelly tannins and fine length. Now to 2019. 14%

J-SA9451 Mullineux Syrah, Swartland 2012 £17 bottle £204 dozen

Platter’s Winery of the Year 2014, Mullineux Family Wines goes from strength to strength. This is their Family Vineyards Syrah, pure Swartland, as befits founding members of the Swartland Revolution and Swartland Independent Certification which aims to ensure that all Swartland wines are bottled in the region. Now to 2020. 13.5%

J-SA9511 Journey’s End Cape Doctor Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch 2008 £18 bottle £216 dozen

Englishman Rollo Gabb’s family bought Journey’s End farm in 1994. The focus has always been on handcrafted single-vineyard and estate wines, and this cabernet comes from a single five-hectare block and is the farm’s flagship. Sleek in texture, with fresh, supple minty cabernet fruit. Now to 2018. 14.5%

J-SA9461 Radford Dale Frankenstein Pinotage, Stellenbosch 2013 £18 bottle £216 dozen

Selected from a small parcel of vineyard on white marl soil, this is pinotage like no other. ‘Fermented like a pinot noir,’ says joint owner Alex Dale, thus with little extraction, using only free-run juice, then no new oak. ‘By showing love to the creature, its gentle side is coaxed to the fore. Using gentle and natural practices, the elegant and charming side of pinotage is expressed in this wine.’ Now to 2017. 13.5%

J-SA9521 Newton Johnson Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde £19 bottle £228 dozen Valley 2012 A blend from the family’s three best pinot vineyards, the fifth vintage of this wine, in

‘a great vintage for pinot’ according to cellarmaster Gordon Newton Johnson. Subtle and refined with pure, bright pinot fruit, thoroughly deserving of its Platter’s five stars this year. Now to 2018. 14%

J-SA9411 Mary Le Bow, Western Cape 2011 £26 bottle £312 dozen

Bruce Jack produces Mary le Bow for old friends the Frater family, helping them to realise Kenneth Frater’s dream to make a fine wine from beautiful vineyards in their secluded mountain kloof (‘valley’) above Ashton in the Robertson area. The 2011 is roughly equal parts cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, with 27% petit verdot, matured in French oak. Rich, smoky and cedary with almost Australian sweetness and density of fruit. Now to 2021. 14.5%

J-SA9541 Glenelly Lady May, Stellenbosch 2010 £27 bottle £324 dozen

Acquired in 2003 by May-Eliane de Lencquesaing after 30 years at Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande in Bordeaux, Glenelly has a stunning position on the Simonsberg Mountain overlooking Stellenbosch. Not all the grapes planted are Bordeaux varietals but this wine is a blend of cabernet sauvignon (90%) with 10% petit verdot for extra spice, the whole matured in new French oak barrels for 24 months. Now to 2022. 14.5%

J-SA9431 Beaumont Vitruvian, Bot River 2009 £32 bottle £384 dozen

Sebastian Beaumont’s flagship blend in the universally acclaimed 2009 vintage combines mourvèdre, shiraz, old-vine/later-picked pinotage, cabernet franc and petit verdot. Common to all Beaumont’s reds this has velvety texture, with rich spicy fruit and powerful length of flavour. Now to 2020. 14.5%

11For advice thewinesociety.com/advice 01438 741177

WHITESJ-IT17981 Sannio Greco Pietralata 2012 £9.95 bottle £119 dozen

When fully ripened as here, greco takes on the rich colour of a ripe lemon and delivers full-bodied generous flavour reminiscent of apricots with racy herbal overtones. A Campanian treat from the excellent Guardiense co-operative to relish with seafood salads, tarragon chicken and the like. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-SP8201 Louro Godello, Valdeorras 2011 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

A delicious vintage for this fine, lemony and creamy godello from north-west Spain, carefully aged in barrel by Rafael Palacios. Drink over the next year with roast chicken or mushroom risotto. 13.5%

J-NZ6971 Greywacke Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013 £16 bottle £192 dozen

Round and gentle-textured sauvignon made by the master of this style, Kevin Judd. Mature vines bring a lovely pure, mineral quality to the naturally ripe fruit. Drink this year and next. 13.5%

J-NZ5631 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay, 2009 £17 bottle £204 dozen

An insider’s secret for many years, and still somewhat obscured by That Other Kiwi Grape, the fine chardonnays of Kumeu Estate in Auckland are styled very much in the European mould. Elegeant, floral and creamy, this should be treated as white Burgundy, and a good one at that. Drink this year and next. 13%

xxSMALL WONDERS: FINE BOTTLES AT £20 OR LESS

Another world tour in premium economy, in which New Zealand and Italy loom especially large, a light is shone on the gastronomic greco of Campania and the frappato of Sicily, a Languedoc white gets the barrique treatment to very pleasing effect. Doubtless perplexed to find itself surrounded by a new world of discovery and innovation is Madiran, titan of sud-ouest tradition and terroir. Some things don’t change, and shouldn’t: this is one delicious constant that is absolutely not to be missed. Janet Wynne Evans

THE PREMIUM £155 CAPE CASE

Drink now to 2016

A six-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

WhitesJordan Estate Nine Yards Chardonnay, Stellenbosch 2013Ken Forrester The FMC Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2012RedsNewton Johnson Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 2012Glenelly Lady May, Stellenbosch 2010Mary Le Bow, Western Cape 2011Beaumont Vitruvian, Bot River 2009

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A CASE FOR £85 INDEPENDENCE

Drink now to 2016

A six-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

WhitesShannon Semillon, Elgin 2012Cederberg Ghost Corner The Bowline, Elim 2013 Ataraxia Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 2013RedsMulderbosch Faithful Hound, Stellenbosch 2011Paul Cluver Pinot Noir, Elgin 2012Mullineux Syrah, Swartland 2012

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12 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222 smartphone app

SMALL WONDERS: FINE BOTTLES AT £20 OR LESS

WHITESJ-BW4811 Château Doisy-Daëne Sec, Bordeaux 2012 £17.50 bottle £210 dozen

Consistently one of the most charming and consistent modern dry Bordeaux we have tasted, this is a pure sauvignon blanc made by Denis Dubourdieu and his sons, with perfectly judged use of oak and vivid freshness on the palate. Now to 2016. 13%

J-FC24941 La Clape, Cuvée Henri Lapierre, Château Roquette sur Mer 2012 £19 bottle £228 dozen

A fine southern French roussanne-bourboulenc blend, aged in new oak, full-flavoured, clean-tasting and not heavy, and demanding a decent fish to go with it. Now to 2017. 13.5%

J-NZ7121 Cloudy Bay Marlborough Chardonnay 2011 £20 bottle £240 dozen

Another light hiding under the sauvignon blanc bushel, Cloudy Bay chardonnay is creamy, stylish and attractively lemony. Try it with poached salmon with hollandaise sauce, or beurre blanc. Now to 2016. 14%

REDSJ-SA8831 Spice Route Chakalaka, Swartland 2010 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

Wonderful name (after a spicy Cape relish) and wonderful wine from back-on-form Spice Route. A blend of many grapes with syrah and mourvèdre at its heart, this is a robust, spicy but smooth, sweet-fruited red to savour. Now to 2016. 14.5%

J-CS7321 Château Moncets, Lalande-de-Pomerol 2009 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

This vineyard is well placed on the border with Pomerol proper and its innate quality shows through in a full, well-structured wine with impressive length of flavour. Now to 2020. 13.5%

J-AU16541 Leconfield Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

A beautifully balanced and serious Coonawarra cabernet from Leconfield who have been making wine here since 1977. The low-yielding 2013 vintage is distinguished by its ripe cassis flavours and layers of rich fruit. Now to 2021. 14%

J-FC22561 Madiran, Château d’Aydie 2009 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

Fabulously rich and full-bodied, sensuous and ripe. Lovely now but clearly this will only get better with time. As delicious with spicy and garlicky barbecued sausages, steak and grilled duck breasts in summer as it is with cassoulet in winter. Now to 2020. 14% The 2010 follows.

J-IT17141 La Grola, Veronese IGT, Allegrini 2010 £17 bottle £204 dozen

A full-bodied, intense yet elegant red, with generous bouquet and scents of wild berries, juniper and tobacco. A perfect partner for roast meat, especially lamb, and lovely with grilled mushrooms or with mellow aged cheeses. Now to 2022. 13.5%

SMALL WONDERS WHITE CASE £95

Drink this year and next

A six-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Sannio Greco Pietralata 2012La Clape, Cuvée Henri Lapierre, Château Roquette sur Mer 2012Château Doisy-Daëne Sec, Bordeaux 2012Cloudy Bay Marlborough Chardonnay 2011 Louro Godello, Valdeorras 2011Greywacke Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013

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13For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

REDSJ-IT18071 Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico Dorilli, Planeta 2011 £17 bottle £204 dozen

A complex and original example of the south-east Sicilian speciality made from 70% nero d’Avola and 30% frappato. The bouquet has hints of ripe and sour cherry and strawberry while the palate is refined and seductively well balanced to match. Now to 2017. 13%

J-LE631 Massaya Silver Selection Red 2010 £17.50 bottle £210 dozen

This Lebanese premium cuvée is a southern French blend of cinsault, grenache, cabernet and mourvèdre carefully made with the help of top Châteauneuf winemaker Daniel Brunier. The 2010 is excellent: round, exotic and elegant with firm, ripe tannins. Now to 2019. 14.5%

J-SP9021 Viña Amézola Reserva, Rioja 2007 £18 bottle £216 dozen

The new generation of the Amézola family, sisters Cristina and María, continues to make superb traditional-style crianza, harmonious and integrated, which will provide immediate drinking pleasure. From the family’s very best vineyard parcels, this is a round, supple and intense reserva which has spent 22 months in barrel. Now to 2018. 14%

J-FC16071 Coteaux du Languedoc, Mas Julien 2004 £18 bottle £216 dozen

Full-flavoured, characterful red of outstanding quality from one of the best names in the Languedoc, perfect with roast lamb and Mediterranean vegetables. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-IT17021 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia 2011 £18 bottle £216 dozen

An approachably rich and full-bodied Tuscan blend of 50% merlot, 30% sangiovese and 20% cabernet sauvignon from the sought-after Bolgheri estate. Now to 2017. 14%

J-NZ6891 Mount Koinga Central Otago Pinot Noir 2012 £19 bottle £228 dozen

A fine-flavoured and silky pinot from this single vineyard in Central Otago. This is succulent, rich and quite delicious. A Wine Society exclusive, too. Now to 2017. 13.5%

J-IT17781 Uvaggio Coste della Sesia Rosso, Proprieta Sperino 2010 £19.50 bottle £234 dozen

Luca De Marchi is doing wonderful things with nebbiolo on this small family estate at Lessona in northern Piedmont. A wine of lovely finesse, elegant and stylish with silky texture on the palate. Now to 2018. 13%

J-AU16141 Heartland Directors’ Cut Shiraz, Langhorne Creek 2010 £20 bottle £240 dozen

The Glaetzer family have a long heritage in Barossa dating back to 1888. Today Ben Glaetzer oversees the winemaking with the sole aim of producing high-quality, distinctive wines that represent the classic style of Barossa. He is rightly considered one of Australia’s leading young winemakers. This is a flamboyant, minty/chocolate, classic South Oz shiraz. Opulent, generous yet beautifully balanced. Now to 2016. 14.5%

J-RH8621 Cornas Les Grandes Terrasses, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2000 £20 bottle £240 dozen

Unquestionably one of the best wines Jaboulet produced in 2000. This northern Rhône is ripe and full-flavoured with some richness and exquisite length. Now to 2017. 13%

SMALL WONDERS RED CASE £89

Drink now to 2016

A six-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Madiran, Château d’Aydie 2009/2010Château Moncets, Lalande-de-Pomerol 2009Spice Route Chakalaka, Swartland 2010Leconfield Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012Mount Koinga Central Otago Pinot Noir 2012Massaya Silver Selection Red 2010

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14 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222 smartphone app

J-CM8941 Château Batailley, Pauillac 2004 £29 bottle £348 dozen

Now at the start of its plateau of maturity, still with some tannin in evidence. Owner Pierre Castéja believes it will develop in the style of ‘96 or ‘86 but better. We agree and believe he has raised the quality of his already consistent wine up a notch since and including 2002. Now to 2020. 13%

J-CM11951 Château Prieuré-Lichine, Margaux 2004 £35 bottle £420 dozen

A Society Wine Champion on more than one occasion, this vintage of Prieuré-Lichine has the elegance that defines the commune and layers of seductive fruit that make it deliciously approachable, but with plenty of time in hand. Now to 2020. 13%

J-CM11921 Château Clerc-Milon, Pauillac 2004 £42 bottle £504 dozen

Ripe cabernet gives lovely cassis bloom and structure but it is given complexity, richness and body too by the merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot elements which make it a very complete wine. Now to 2025. 13%

J-CM9121 Château Léoville-Barton, Saint-Julien 2004 £45 bottle £540 dozen

The blend of 72% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 8% cabernet franc yields benchmark Saint-Julien, sweetly-fruited, classically-proportioned and long on the palate. Power and finesse in equal measure, and worth waiting a little longer for. Now to 2024. 13%

Clos du Marquis, Saint-Julien 2004 Accounting for two-thirds of the crop, the earlier-maturing second wine of Léoville-Las-

Cases is a blend of 57% cabernet sauvignon, 38% merlot, 3% petit verdot and 2% cabernet franc. It sees less new oak than the grand vin, but delivers similar poise with seductive perfume and sweet, rich fruit to the fore. Now to 2020. 13% Only available as part of the mixed case J-MX1482.

Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux 2004 A fine vintage for this leading Margaux property, now fully deserving of its second

growth status. Tasted in February this year, it showed true Margaux refinement behind a certain restraint that will respond to another year or so in bottle. Now to 2024. 13.5% Low stock. Only available as part of the mixed case J-MX1482.

A DECADE IN BOTTLE: 2004 CLARET

Ten years on, and now regularly poured on our visits to Bordeaux, 2004 is a vintage which, at its best, shows both balance and finesse. Many crus classés are just hitting their stride, notably members’ favourite Batailley, which is now starting to show greater complexity. All three communes below achieved notable successes, none more so than Margaux, where Rauzan-Ségla is a wine of the vintage, and Prieuré-Lichine has been a serial winner in our own Wine Championship tastings. All these wines may be enjoyed now, or cellared for a few more years. The mixed case offers a neat tour of the 2004 vintage on the left bank. Joanna Locke MW

2004 CLARETS CASE £229

Drink now to 2020

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the wines listed above.

Ref J-MX1482

15For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

J-CB3321 Château Le Conseiller, Bordeaux Supérieur 2009 £13.50 bottle £162 dozen

With its plump, ripe seductively fragrant fruit, this juicy 100% merlot tastes like a junior Pomerol and is a great tribute to owner Jean-Philippe Janoueix. Now to 2017. 14%

J-SA8111 Meerlust Estate Merlot, Stellenbosch 2005 £18 bottle £216 dozen

A new world wine for Bordeaux lovers, with the colour, aroma and flavours of mature claret. Winemaker Chris Williams’ second vintage in charge, with 12% cabernet franc, shows the sweetness of the 2005 vintage. Now to 2020. 14%

J-FC22671 Madiran, Château Montus 2007 £19 bottle £228 dozen

From the most aristocratic of Madiran estates, the mighty tannat, even when blended with both cabernets, always needs time to evolve, and patience is amply rewarded. Potent and full, but elegant, this is ready to be enjoyed and will remain so for some time to come. Now to 2020. 14%

J-UR301 Gran Bodegón 2009 £21 bottle £252 dozen

This fine, elegant Uruguayan wine, with Bordeaux-like balance, is a blend of 42% tannat with 24% cabernet sauvignon, 20% cabernet franc, 10% merlot, 2% petit verdot and 2% marselan. It was aged in perfect conditions for 22 months in barriques in a beautiful vaulted cellar built in 1830 by Don Francisco Juanicó. Now to 2022. 13% The 2010 follows.

J-AU15771 Wirra Wirra RSW McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 £35 bottle £420 dozen

This deeply coloured, layered wine oozes blackberry and mocha flavours, and is a near perfect expression of the bold, powerful style of top-quality McLaren Vale shiraz. In 2010 the wine has added vibrancy which makes it even more appetising and harmonious than previous vintages. Now to 2022. 14.5%

J-RH29181 Hermitage Farconnet, Chave Selection 2008 £37.50 bottle £450 dozen

M. Farconnet, former owner of vines acquired by the Chaves on the Bessards slope of Hermitage, lends his name to this special cuvée. Produced after a rigorous selection process (only some 5,000 bottles are made) this is premium syrah, bright and full with tannins that are already supple. Though it will achieve increased complexity with a little more bottle-age, it can be approached now if decanted. Now to 2021. 13.5%

J-AU13071 Stella Bella Luminosa Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 £38 bottle £380 dozen

The Luminosa range from Stella Bella is made only in exceptional vintages. This superb cabernet is both elegant and concentrated with the fine structure so typical of Margaret River’s best cabernets. Now to 2017. 14%

J-AU14511 D’Arenberg The Blewitt Springs McLaren Vale Grenache 2009 £38 bottle £456 dozen

Blewitt Springs is a sub-region of McLaren Vale in South Australia at an altitude of 250 metres which grows exceptional grenache. This is a stunning red, velvety, long and mineral, showing the intense flavours that come with 70-year-old vines. Just 200 cases were made, and only available in the UK to Society members. Now to 2024. 14.5%

J-RH34851 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Chapouins Vieilles Vignes, Famille Perrin 2006 £40 bottle £480 dozen

The 2006 vintage produced sumptuous grenache, a grape much admired by the Perrins. They selected some of the oldest vines at Beaucastel and raised the wine in large oak foudres for five years. This delicious red is perfectly ready to be savoured now but will keep for the next fifteen or so years. Now to 2030. 14.5%

Mas de Daumas Gassac 2006 Daumas Gassac is an unusual wine, more comfortable in the company of a Graves or

Saint-Estèphe than the Midi. It’s made mostly from cabernet but includes a wealth of other varieties brought in from as far afield as Georgia. The 2006 is quite exquisite. Now to 2025. 13% Only available as part of the mixed case J-MX1494 (overleaf).

xxDARK HORSES: SURPRISING REDS FOR ALL SEASONS

Cabernet, syrah or shiraz, grenache and tannat are obvious options for fans of ‘full reds’ who like to drink in the deep, dark colour in their glass before exploring the greater depths of aroma and taste. Merlot can score here too, as Chris Willliams’ velvety Meerlust demonstrates. The selection below compares old and new-world interpretations of these dark horses, and the surprising thing about all of them is that despite their intensity on eye, nose and palate, a perfect sense of balance in each case makes them very enjoyable even in full summer. Janet Wynne Evans

16 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222 smartphone app

J-RH34261 Heluicum, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes, Les Vins de Vienne £20 bottle £240 dozen 2010 Matured for ten months in oak, Heluicum is an impressive, deeply coloured syrah with

notes of spice and slate. Now to 2017. 13%

J-RH17121 Sotanum, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes, Les Vins de Vienne £23 bottle £276 dozen 2005 The Vins de Vienne triumvirate of Gaillard, Cuilleron and Villard has delivered another

beauty in 2005. Almost black in colour with complex mineral flavours and the concentration of older vines. Now to 2017. 13%

J-RH21281 Seyssuel Asiaticus, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes, Domaine £25 bottle £300 dozen Gaillard 2006 Named after a Roman consul, reflecting the region’s history, Pierre Gaillard’s polished

100% syrah spends 18 months in oak. Dark and glossy in the glass, velvety in texture and intensely spicy and savoury on the palate. Drink this year and next. 12.5%

The story begins when Vienne was a major Roman city in the Northern Rhône producing wine which was much admired by Pliny. It was later eclipsed by Côte-Rôtie, and when phylloxera ravaged the vines, they were never replanted. Yet these vines occupied some wonderful slopes, mostly just below the village of Seyssuel. Here, the poor, dark schistous soil is very similar to the northern part of Côte-Rôtie. Rediscovery came in the 1990s when three enterprising growers, Pierre Gaillard, Yves Cuilleron and François Villard, formed Les Vins de Vienne, pooling their resources to secure land, clear it of trees and bushes and replant it with syrah and eventually a little viognier too. Other growers have since arrived, and added to the vineyard, which is now visible from the motorway. The next stage is visibility for Seyssuel within the official appellation system, but that will take time. So for the moment these wonderful, dark and spicy wines come under the vin de pays banner. Marcel Orford-Williams.

DARK HORSES: SURPRISING REDS FOR ALL SEASONS

SEYSSUEL: AN APPELLATION IN THE WAITING

DARK HORSES CASE £209

Drink now to 2017

A six-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Stella Bella Luminosa Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2007Mas de Daumas Gassac 2006Wirra Wirra RSW McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010Hermitage Farconnet, Chave Selection 2008D’Arenberg The Blewitt Springs McLaren Vale Grenache 2009Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Chapouins Vieilles Vignes, Famille Perrin 2006

Ref J-MX1494

17For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

WHITESJ-CE7221 The Society’s Exhibition Limarí Chardonnay 2012 £9.50 bottle £114 dozen

Tense, firm Chilean chardonnay, more mineral than fruity, with pure, crystalline flavours and very long refreshing palate. Part barrel-fermented. Moreish and designed to partner food. Decant 20 minutes before serving. Now to 2016. 14%

J-NZ6841 The Society’s Exhibition New Zealand Chardonnay 2012 £13.50 bottle £162 dozen

From the Kumeu River estate whose chardonnays have earned a world-wide reputation for high-quality fruity and structured wines. Matured in French oak barrels, this is a great addition to the range. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-AU16161 The Society’s Exhibition Tasmanian Chardonnay 2012 £16 bottle £192 dozen

This stylish Australian white shows off the sheer quality of Tasmania chardonnay. Dry, concentrated but not overt, this has a lovely mouthwatering finish and peachy fruit. Drink this year and next. 13%

REDSJ-CE6671 The Society’s Exhibition Peumo Merlot 2011 £9.50 bottle £114 dozen

Rich and plummy Chilean merlot made by expert winemaker Ignacio Recabarren exclusively for us. Aged in barrel for about a year until smooth and velvety. Now to 2019. 14.5%

J-CE7661 The Society’s Exhibition Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

Fine, cedary Alto Maipo cabernet sauvignon made by Ignacio Recabarren exclusively for us. Concha have superb vineyards and grape contracts in the best Alto Maipo vineyards. This comes principally from two of the best communes, Pirque and Tocornal. Long ageing in barrel has softened the tannins and developed the aromas. Now to 2022. 14.5%

J-AU16101 The Society’s Exhibition Victoria Shiraz 2010 £17.50 bottle £210 dozen

The cool 2010 vintage has resulted in an elegant and harmonious shiraz with full, rich flavour and charming purity. The fruit undergoes whole-bunch maceration to add complexity, before spending 14 months in 228-litre French oak barriques. Utterly delicious Australian shiraz. Now to 2020. 13.5%

In the overwhelmingly European list of wine producers who flocked to the Royal Albert Hall and the Exhibition of 1874 that spawned The Society, the only mention of the new world is ‘The Colonies’. 140 years on, it’s a different story, as soils, varieties and the interplay between the two are increasingly understood by the talented winemakers of South America, the Cape and the Antipodes. As their informed plantings mature they become perfect candidates for The Society’s Exhibition range, which aims to encapsulate the essence, not simply of a country, but of specific terroir. The name of a district often precedes the grape on the label and we work with some of the leading producers of their regions to convey to members the voluptuousness of Victoria shiraz, for example, the intensity of high-altitude Mendoza malbec or the cool poise of a Tasmanian chardonnay. The mixed case below makes the point eloquently. Janet Wynne Evans

xNEW WORLD EXHIBITION WINES

NEW WORLD EXHIBITION CASE £75

Drink now and next year

A six-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the wines listed above.

Ref J-MX1487

18 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222 smartphone app

CUSTOM CELLARS

Paul Jaboulet Aîné An opportunity to lay down two of the northern Rhône’s best cellaring reds and to benefit from The Society’s mixed case storage options – see thewinesociety.com/membersreserves for more information.

A THALBERT VERTICAL CASE £159

Drink now to 2017

A six-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the wines listed above.

Ref J-MX1493

CROZES-HERMITAGE DOMAINE DE THALABERTThe story of Thalabert is surely one of the most extraordinary among the many from the Rhône valley. Their estate is a large one, less than a mile from Jaboulet’s offices. The land is called Les Chassis which is relatively flat and stony on an ancient bed of the Rhône. When the late Louis Jaboulet spotted Thalabert and its potential, there wasn’t a vineyard for miles around. Indeed Les Chassis was a vast orchard and Thalabert was a mere fruit farm. Under Louis Jaboulet’s direction and then his sons, Gérard and Jacques, Thalabert became the flagship not just for the firm but for the whole of the appellation. And it remains one of the top reds of the northern Rhône. Marcel Orford-Williams

J-RH24341 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2008 £24 bottle £288 dozen

2008 Thalabert only represents half a crop, the result of stringent selection to include only healthy and fully ripe grapes. This is quite thick and chewy with a lovely finish. Now to 2017. 13%

J-RH19741 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2006 £24 bottle £288 dozen

Wonderfully rich, thick and plummy with plenty of length. Since the acquisition of Jaboulet by the Frey family, production of Thalabert has been halved in order to raise the quality bar and it shows. Now to 2020. 13.5%

J-RH22311 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2007 £24 bottle £288 dozen

Caroline Frey’s first vintage is still a little closed on the nose. On the palate there are layers of sweet-tasting fruit and a polish that comes from some very good use of oak. This is a lovely Thalabert which will repay a little keeping. Decant before serving if you can’t resist it now or keep to 2020. 13%

J-RH26431 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 £26 bottle £312 dozen

Deeply sensuous, splendidly rich and ripe, a remarkable Thalabert from a cracking vintage. No hurry to drink, but it’s delicious already. Now to 2023. 14%

J-RH29071 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2005 £29 bottle £348 dozen

A wind of change has blown through this key Rhône grower, bringing in new talent and much needed investment. The selection process has been more rigorous and this shows in the 2005 Thalabert, which is a fabulous wine: thick, fat and satisfyingly long. Now to 2020. 13.5%

J-RH1911 Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, 1999 £35 bottle £420 dozen

Mature northern Rhône syrah in a very ripe vintage. This is full-flavoured and gamey. Decant before serving and enjoy with pheasant. Now to 2017. 13%

19For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

CUSTOM CELLARS

HERMITAGE LA CHAPELLE CASE £265

Drink now to 2025

A three-bottle mixed case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 1999 Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2001 Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2003

Ref J-MX1479

HERMITAGE AND LA CHAPELLEThis iconic cuvée first saw the light of day over 100 years ago. It is named after the little chapel that is perched on the hill of Hermitage and is owned by Paul Jaboulet Aîné. The wine itself, 100% syrah, comes from all over Hermitage and especially from two lieus-dits, Bessards, which brings structure and backbone, and Méal, for body and opulence. Marcel Orford-Williams

J-RH21431 The Society’s Exhibition Hermitage Rouge 2006 £29 bottle £348 dozen

2006 was an exceptional vintage in the northern Rhône and the quality shows through. In a tasting of the different elements that make up Jaboulet’s La Chapelle, this wine, from the Roucoules vineyard, stood out for its exquisite charm and finesse and we were able to draw off a few barrels to be bottled separately under the Exhibition label. Wonderfully refined, with great purity of fruit and delicious now. Now to 2016. 14% The 2007 follows.

J-RH10861 Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2001 £79 bottle £948 dozen

Fruit from vines in Méal dominate, and it is this which accounts for the deceptively smooth and velvety texture in the wine. Winemakers Jacques and Laurent Jaboulet aimed high in 2001 and this Chapelle has everything in place: a glorious bouquet and an ample, fat and concentrated flavour. Already lovely and will continue to develop well over many years. Now to 2030. 13.5%

J-RH14631 Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2003 £89 bottle £1068 dozen

Big weighty Hermitage from the heatwave vintage of 2003. This would stand up to a well-marinated piece of beef. Lovely now but there’s no hurry whatsoever. Now to 2025. 14.5%

J-RH20141 Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2006 £99 bottle £1188 dozen

A very distinguished Hermitage. There was less made as the new owners insisted on stringent selection during the blending and this is not unnaturally reflected in the price. Now to 2035. 14%

J-RH7321 Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 1999 £99 bottle £1188 dozen

A lovely Chapelle, quite forward, ripe and sweetly flavoured. The tannins are now quite smooth making this already very enjoyable to drink. Now to 2030. 13.5%

J-RH22871 Hermitage La Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2007 £125 bottle £1500 dozen

The plump, black-cherry flavour that defines the Méal vineyard is clearly to the fore in the 2007. There is a roasted quality too which is reminiscent of past great vintages. Superb Hermitage and the best Chapelle for some time. One to keep for a while longer. 2015 to 2030. 14%

FNA

PR14

SERVICESMembers’ Reserves: optimum wine storage This purpose-built, temperature-controlled facility offers members access to ideal storage conditions at one of the UK’s most competitive rates.

● Optimum storage at a steady average temperature of 13°C with appropriate humidity of 65%

● An annual rental charge (currently £7.92 per dozen) that includes VAT and insurance at replacement value

● Mix your own case for storage, or store pre-mixed cases

● Remove a few bottles of a full case stored in Reserves and leave the remainder to mature further

● View your stored wines online with updated drink dates

● Free UK delivery when you are ready to receive your wines

thewinesociety.com/membersreserves

Vintage Cellar Plan – the simple and affordable way to create a cellar of fine wineChoose from a range of plans and then let The Society’s buyers do the rest, using their expertise to seek out exceptional parcels of wine for your future enjoyment. thewinesociety.com/vintagecellarplan

Fine Wine Advisers – here to helpPlease contact the Fine Wine Advisers for help with wine selection, food matching and any other wine-related subject. Visit thewinesociety.com/advice or call 01438 741177 to find out more.

The Society’s Fine Wine ListPlease note that many of these wines are available only in limited quantities and will be sold on a first-come first-served basis. Prices are correct at the time of publication, but The Society reserves the right to amend them at any time during the life of this List.

For details on ordering from The Society see page 136 of the main List.

Please note:

● Members wishing to store mixed cases in our Reserves facility are advised to take note of the drinking windows highlighted in the wine note of the wines included in it.

● Our Stevenage Showroom doesn’t hold stocks of all the fine wines listed, so pre-ordering is recommended.

KEYSee page 144 of the main List for full descriptions

White Wines: bone dry, eg. Muscadet

a little fuller than bone dry or with lower acidity

dry but rich or lighter and sweeter

medium dry, usually demi-secs

medium sweet, the driest of the pudding-style wines

- dessert grade sweetness eg. Sauternes

Alcohol levelsAlcohol percentage by volume is indicated for each wine or spirit. Occasionally there will be slight variations from the published figure. Alcohol levels are only a guide to a wine’s fullness; other factors such as tannin and extract in red wines also contribute to overall impression of weight and the note on the wine should make this clear. Units of alcohol are increasingly printed on wine labels. A UK unit of alcohol is simply measured by multiplying alcohol by volume. Thus a standard 13% 75cl bottle of wine will contain 9.7 units of alcohol.

14.5 10.9

14 10.5

13.5 10.1

13 9.75

12 9.0

11 8.25

10 7.5

9 6.75

volume % Units per standard bottleThe UK government recommends that men do not regularly exceed 3-4 units a day, and that women do not regularly exceed 2-3 units a day. It also recommends that pregnant women do not drink alcohol.

The International Exhibition Co-operative Wine Society Limited. Registered Office: Gunnels Wood Road, Stevenage, Hertfordshire, SG1 2BT Register Number: 1824R (IP)Website thewinesociety.comEnquiries 01438 741177Orders 01438 740222

This offer is open until Sunday 10th August, 2014 while stocks last.

thewinesociety.com/finewines

Uncork with confidenceThe Wine Society is a mutual organisation, so our members’ satisfaction is paramount. If, for any reason, you haven’t enjoyed a wine we want to hear about it and will happily offer a credit, a replacement or a refund. thewinesociety.com/promise