nicaragua 4 - title & contents (chapter) - lonely...
TRANSCRIPT
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Bridget Gleeson, Alex Egerton
Nicaragua
CaribbeanCoastp203
NorthernHighlands
p167
SouthwesternNicaragua
p102
León &Northwestern
Nicaraguap135
San Carlos,Islas Solentiname& the Río San Juan
p240
Granadap81
Masaya &Los Pueblos
Blancosp64
Managuap40
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Nicaragua . . . 4
Nicaragua Map . . . . . . . . . 6
Nicaragua’s Top 15 . . . . . . 8
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 16
First Time Nicaragua . . . 18
If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Month by Month . . . . . . . 22
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Nicaragua Outdoors . . . . 32
Regions at a Glance . . . . 36
MANAGUA . . . . . . . . . 40Around Managua . . . . . . 60Masachapa & Pochomil . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Montelimar . . . . . . . . . . . .61
Ticuantepe . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Reserva Natural Chocoyero-El Brujo . . . . 62
MASAYA & LOS PUEBLOS BLANCOS . . . . . . . . . . . 64Masaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya . . . . . . . . .72
Nindirí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
Los Pueblos Blancos . . . .73
Catarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
San Juan de Oriente . . . .75
Diriá & Diriomo . . . . . . . . .75
Niquinohomo . . . . . . . . . . .76
Masatepe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
Carazo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77
Diriamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77
Jinotepe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
San Marcos . . . . . . . . . . . .78
Reserva Ecológica La Maquina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
La Boquita . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Casares . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
GRANADA . . . . . . . . . .81Around Granada . . . . . . . 96
Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho . . . . . .97
Reserva Natural Laguna de Apoyo . . . . . . 99
Parque Nacional Archipiélago Zapatera . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
SOUTHWESTERN NICARAGUA . . . . . . 102Rivas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
San Jorge . . . . . . . . . . . . .107
Isla de Ometepe . . . . . . 109
Moyogalpa . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Volcán Concepción . . . . . 114
Around Volcán Concepción . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Altagracia . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Playa Santo Domingo & Santa Cruz . . . . . . . . . . 117
Volcán Maderas . . . . . . . 118
Around Volcán Maderas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Pacific Beaches . . . . . . 120
Tola & the Tola Beaches . . . . . . . . . . 121
Refugio de Vida Silvestre Río Escalante- Chacocente . . . . . . . . . . .124
San Juan Del Sur . . . . . .124
Beaches North of San Juan del Sur . . . . . 130
Beaches South of San Juan del Sur . . . . . .132
LEÓN & NORTHWESTERN NICARAGUA . . . . . . 135León . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
Pacific Beaches Near León . . . . . . . . . . . .152
Volcanoes Near León . . .155
PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
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Contents
San Jacinto . . . . . . . . . . . 157
El Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
La Paz Centro . . . . . . . . . 157
Chinandega . . . . . . . . . . .158
Around Chinandega . . . . 161
Cosigüina Peninsula Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162
Reserva Natural Volcán Cosigüina . . . . . .165
NORTHERN HIGHLANDS . . . . . . .167Estelí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170
Área Protegida Miraflor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Área Protegida Cerro Tisey-Estanzuela . . . . . . 177
Condega . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179
Somoto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Ocotal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182
Dipilto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183
Ocotal to Jalapa . . . . . . 184
Jalapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .186
Estelí–Jinotega Road . . .187
Jinotega . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188
Reserva Natural Cerro Datanlí-El Diablo . . . . . . . 191
Lago de Apanás . . . . . . .192
Matagalpa . . . . . . . . . . . .193
San Ramón . . . . . . . . . . .197
Reserva Natural Cerro El Arenal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199
La Dalia & Peñas Blancas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
South of Matagalpa . . . 201
CARIBBEAN COAST . . . . . . . . . . . 203Bilwi (Puerto Cabezas) . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Around Bilwi . . . . . . . . . 210
Miskito Keys . . . . . . . . . 210
Waspám & the Río Coco . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212
Managua-El Rama Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213
El Rama . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Bluefields . . . . . . . . . . . . .221
Pearl Lagoon . . . . . . . . . 224
Around Pearl Lagoon . . 227
Pearl Keys . . . . . . . . . . . 228
Corn Islands . . . . . . . . . 230
SAN CARLOS, ISLAS SOLENTINAME & THE RÍO SAN JUAN . . . . . . . . 240San Carlos . . . . . . . . . . . .241
San Miguelito . . . . . . . . 246
Islas Solentiname . . . . . 247
Refugio De Vida Silvestre Los Guatuzos . . . . . . . . .251
Río San Juan . . . . . . . . . .251
Nicaragua Today . . . . . . 260History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
Nicaraguan Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271
Arts & Architecture . . . 276
Land & Wildlife . . . . . . . .281
Directory A-Z . . . . . . . . . 290Transportation . . . . . . . 298Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 303Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 319
UNDERSTAND
SURVIVAL GUIDE
SPECIAL FEATURES
Nicaragua’s Top 15 . . . . . . 8
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Off the Beaten Track . . . 30
Nicaragua Outdoors . . . 32
Arts & Architecture . . . `276
Land & Wildlife . . . . . . . 281
Volcán Masaya & Laguna de Apoyo
15 Hovering above the ar-tisan villages of Nica-
ragua’s Central Plateau, the smoldering Volcán Masaya (p72) and its surrounding national park are a singular highlight not to be missed. This is one of the region’s most active volcanoes, and it’s pretty exciting just to see the sulfurous columns of gas billow toward the sky as you relish the million-dollar views. Short treks take you to lava caves and butter y gardens. Afterward, cool off with a dip in gorgeous Laguna de Apoyo (p99), a nearby crater lake.
Wildlife-Watching
12From the colorful parakeets ying
over busy Managua to ubiquitous iguanas scratch-ing across your hotel roof, exotic wildlife is everywhere in Nicaragua. Dedicate some energy to the pursuit and you’ll discover some truly phenomenal natural spectacles. Head into the rugged rainforest-covered mountains of the Bosawás (p217 ) to spot three types of monkeys, toucans and tapirs, while reptile fans will not want to miss getting close to the alligators of Los Guatuzos. Wherever you go, keep your binoculars handy – a wild encounter is never far away.
Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos
13 The Reserva Natu-ral Estero Padre Ra-
mos (p164 ) is a vast na-ture reserve located in the far northwestern corner of Nicaragua. The largest remaining mangrove for-est in Central America, the reserve is home to ocelots, alligators and a universe’s worth of birds. While this is a wild corner of Nicaragua, basic tourist services will get you into the spider-webbing mangrove forest, to the surf beaches where sea turtles lay their eggs, and into local communities.
Surfing Near San Juan del Sur
14Nicaragua sparked into international
surf stardom on the wake of tanned-and-toned surfer dudes and dudettes. The sur ng scene north and south of regional hub San Juan del Sur (p124 ) remains cool, reefed-out, soulful and downright bril-liant. The stars of the scene are the long rideable waves that cater for surfers of all abilities, but the relaxed surf camps, beach parties and cool breezes add to the vibe, ensuring a great beach vacation for everybody in your crew (even the boogie boarders). Surfer on Playa Maderas (p131)
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Itineraries
Stunning Southwest
If you have limited time in Nicaragua, a trip through the southwest is big on awesome and small on hours in the bus. The region is a condensed wonderland of barreling surf, volcanoes, crater lakes, colonial towns and artisan villages that includes many of Nicaragua’s must-see highlights.
Fly into Managua and take in the view across town from Sandino’s silhouette on the Loma de Tiscapa before heading south and descending into the lush crater at Laguna de Apoyo for the night. Spend
the next day swimming in the rich sulfur-ous waters or spotting birds and howler monkeys in the forest, before enjoying the spectacular night sky.
The following morning, visit the artisan workshops of the nearby Pueblos Blan-cos, including the pottery cooperative at San Juan de Oriente.
Then head 30 minutes down the road for some colonial splendor in charismatic Granada. Spend three nights taking in the wonderful streetscapes, visiting the museums and churches, and dining in the fine restaurants. While you’re here take a
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Laguna de Apoyo (p99)
kayaking day trip through the islets just offshore, and hike among the cloud forest atop Volcán Mombacho.
Next head down the highway via Rivas to San Jorge. From here take the ferry to the out-of-this world Isla de Ometepe with its twin volcanoes and endless outdoor activities. Spend a night among the howler monkeys at Reserva Charco Verde and an-other at the base of Volcán Maderas, from where you can hike to the emerald-green crater lake surrounded by cloud forest.
Next head across the isthmus to the surfing capital of San Juan del Sur,
where you’ll spend three days lazing on the splendid surrounding beaches or surfing some of the excellent breaks in the area. If you can drag yourself off the beach, take a day trip to the charming fishing village of El Ostional or, if you’re lucky, to watch sea turtles arrive en masse at Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor. In the evenings, work your way though the happening beachfront bars and restaurants.
On your way back to Managua, stop at Masaya to shop for souvenirs and gifts in the excellent Mercado de Artesanías (National Artisans Market) and visit the hammock workshops.
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Rich in nature and revolutionary culture, northern Nicaragua is equally rugged and refined. In one trip you’ll go from sipping organic coffee at the source to surfing an active volcano. Charge your batteries: you’ll want to take plenty of pictures or no one will believe you when you get home.
Upon arrival skip through Managua and head for the crumbling colonial beauty of León to give Nicaragua the fantastic introduction it de-serves. Spend three days exploring this endear-ing city on foot, visiting fascinating museums, spacious mansions and glorious churches. If you’re feeling energetic, hike one of the nearby volcanoes or surf the slopes of Cerro Negro.
From León, head west to the beach at Las Peñitas and find a spot in a sand-floor beach-side bar for the spectacular sunset. In the morning make an early start to travel north to Jiquilillo. Spend a couple of days soaking up the ambience in this pretty fishing village and paddling through the mangroves of the nearby Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos.
Then travel across the Maribios volcanic chain and into the mountains to Estelí, where you can visit cigar factories and check out revo-lutionary murals. After a couple of days head into the mountains in the Área Protegida Mi-raflor for two days of horseback riding, wildlife spotting and farm-culture immersion.
Move on to Somoto and to Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto to swim, jump and rappel your way through the canyon.
Next morning travel to Matagalpa for a few caffeine-fueled days picking coffee beans and hiking on local plantations. Continue climbing higher into the mountains, stopping at the gor-geous Selva Negra coffee estate, before arriving in Jinotega, gateway to the cloud forests of Reserva Natural Cerro Datanlí–El Diablo. Spend a day in town to climb Cerro la Cruz and then spend a couple of days hiking in the reserve.
Give your muscles a break with a boat cruise on Lago de Apanás before continuing on to San Rafael del Norte. Here you can visit one of Nicaragua’s most magnificent churches or fly through the pine forest on a zip line. On your way back to Managua call in at Chagüitillo to view the pre-Columbian petroglyphs.
3 WEEKS Northern Loop
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Top: Río Coco (p213), Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto
Bottom: Making tortillas, Jinotega (p188)
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The southeast corner of Nicaragua is an unparalleled playground for nature lovers of all dispositions. It boasts both comfortable eco-retreats and more strenuous adventures among lush wetlands and towering rainforests that are filled with fascinating ruins, colorful reptiles and first-class birdlife.
From Managua fly or bus it to San Carlos or pick up the ferry in Granada or Ometepe. Spend a morning checking out the old Spanish fort and waterfront before taking the afternoon boat to the enchanted archipelago of the Islas Solentiname. Spend a night each on Isla San Fernando and Isla Mancarrón, following jungle trails to in situ petroglyphs, swimming in the clear waters and visiting local artist workshops.
From Mancarrón, charter a boat to the Río Papaturro in the Refugio de Vida Silvestre Los Guatuzos, stopping to spot the amazing birdlife at some of the smaller islands on the way. Hike through the thick monkey-inhabited forest or kayak in the wetlands before heading out on an alligator safari in the evening.
Next take the public boat back to San Carlos. Pick up a riverboat down the Río San Juan to Boca de Sábalos, a small river town sur-rounded by steamy jungle. Among the many excursions on offer here is a tour to a local ca-cao plantation and chocolate factory. Or simply relax on your hotel balcony and spot aquatic birds on the banks of the majestic river.
After two nights in Sábalos, continue down-stream to El Castillo, where an imposing Span-ish fort looms over the rapids. Spend two days here riding horses through the rolling green hills and feasting on giant river shrimp.
If you have a day to spare, detour north on a day trip to Refugio Bartola biological sta-tion, with a network of trails through towering old-growth forest and kayaks to paddle up the narrow jungle-clad Río Bartola to crystal-clear swimming holes.
Otherwise, continue the journey by picking up a riverboat heading downriver to San Juan de Nicaragua, where the Río San Juan pours into the Caribbean Sea. Give yourself three days to explore the ruins of Greytown, spot manatees in hidden lagoons and head up the Río Indio into the heart of the Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz..
2 WEEKS Cruising the
Río San Juan
Top: El Castillo (p253), Río San Juan Bottom: Pineapple vendor, Managua (p40)
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Reserva NaturalEstero Padre Ramos
Volcán Masaya
Volcán Cerro Negro
Off the Beaten Track: Nicaragua
At the end of one of the worst roads in Central America you’ll find this spectacular 100m-high split-level waterfall that makes every bump, ditch and pothole seem insignificant. (p185)
SALTO EL ROSARIO
Take a boat ride through these vast wetlands close to the Honduran border to spot alligators and migratory birds backed by the magnificent Volcán Cosigüina.(p160)
DELTA DEL ESTERO REAL
On the back roads between León and Estelí is this sleepy mountain town cut straight from an old Western movie. The surrounding mountains are strewn with waterfalls and hiking trails. (p157)
EL SAUCE
The ultimate remote river adventure takes you from Wiwilí in the northern highlands all the way to the Waspám in the Caribbean stopping in tiny Miskito villages along the way. Only hardcore adventurers need apply. (p213)
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Refugio de Vida SilvestreLos Guatuzos Reserva
Biológica Indio-Maíz
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Bosawás
0 50 km0 30 miles
Spend the night with welcoming Miskito lobster fishers in their stilted wooden houses that jut out of the turquoise Caribbean Sea among rocky outcrops and coral reefs some 50km offshore. (p210)
MISKITO KEYS
Accessed from the town of Río Blanco on the Managua–Siuna Hwy, this ruggedly beautiful mountain reserve has almost a dozen peaks over 1400m and as many dramatic waterfalls. (p284)
RESERVA NATURAL CERRO MUSÚN
A perilous ride through the open seas in a small boat keeps the best beaches on the Caribbean mainland completely empty and undeveloped. (p225)
MONKEY POINT
This Creole community accessed by boat charter from San Juan de Nicaragua is the gateway to superb wildlife-watching in this seldom-visit-ed part of the Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz. (p225)
CORN RIVER
Deep in the Indio-Maíz, the indigenous Rama community of Makenge is surrounded by the class of jungle you’ve probably only seen in wildlife documentaries. (p258)
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ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
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BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
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Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Map Legend
Published by Lonely Planet Global LtdCRN 5541534th edition – October 2016ISBN 978 1 78657 116 8© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSBridget GleesonManagua, Masaya & Los Pueblos Blancos, Granada, Southwestern Nicaragua, León & Northwestern Nicaragua Based in Buenos Aires, Bridget is a travel writer and occasional photographer. Her first experiences in Latin America were in Nicaragua. She lived, worked, and learned to speak Spanish in Granada before moving on to South America; this assignment was a welcome opportunity to return to the place where the great adventure started. Bridget also researched
the Plan Your Trip and Understand chapters.
Alex EgertonNorthern Highlands, Caribbean Coast, San Carlos, Islas Solentiname & the Río San Juan A journalist by trade, Alex has been visiting Nicaragua for more than a decade and has spent many periods based in the country while working as a travel writer in Latin America. He has explored villages from Nueva Segovia to Río San Juan, paddled through the remote rivers in the Bosawás, eaten tons of
gallo pinto and ridden on the roof of countless chicken buses. Alex still visits Nicaragua regularly, especially the Caribbean Coast, which keeps luring him back with the simple pleasures of cold beers, warm soup and hot dancehall tunes. Alex also researched the Survival Guide chapters.
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