ninevah

7/31/2019 Ninevah

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/ninevah 1/300

TheProjectGutenbergEBookofDiscoveriesamongtheRuinsofNinevehandBabylon,byAustenH.Layard

ThiseBookisfortheuseofanyoneanywhereatnocostandwithalmostnorestrictionswhatsoever.Youmaycopyit,giveitawayorre-useitunderthetermsoftheProjectGutenbergLicenseincludedwiththiseBookoronlineatwww.gutenberg.org

Title:DiscoveriesamongtheRuinsofNinevehandBabylon

Author:AustenH.Layard

ReleaseDate:June2,2012[EBook#39897]

Language:English

***STARTOFTHISPROJECTGUTENBERGEBOOKDISCOVERIESAMONGTHERUINS***

ProducedbyTheOnlineDistributedProofreadingTeamat

http://www.pgdp.net(ThisfilewasproducedfromimagesgenerouslymadeavailablebyTheInternetArchive/AmericanLibraries.)

[Illustration:NORTH-EASTERNFACADEANDGRANDENTRANCEOFSENNACHERIBS

PALACEKOUYUNJIK

RestoredfromaSketchbyJFergusson,Esqre

GPPUTNAM&CoNEWYORK.]

DISCOVERIESAMONGTHERUINSOFNINEVEHANDBABYLON;

WITH

TRAVELSINARMENIA,KURDISTAN,ANDTHEDESERT:BEINGTHERESULTOFASECONDEXPEDITIONUNDERTAKENFORTHETRUSTEESOFTHEBRITISHMUSEUM.

BYAUSTENH.LAYARD,M.P.AUTHOROF"NINEVEHANDITSREMAINS."

7/31/2019 Ninevah


"Forthouhastmadeofacityanheap;ofadefencedcityaruin;apalaceofstrangerstobenocity;itshallneverbebuilt."--ISAIAHxxv.2.

ABRIDGEDFROMTHELARGERWORK.

NEW-YORK:G.P.PUTNAM&CO.,10PARKPLACE.1853.

ENTEREDaccordingtoActofCongressintheyear1853,byGEORGEP.PUTNAM&CO.,IntheClerk'sOfficeoftheDistrictCourtfortheSouthernDistrictofNew-York.

PREFATORYNOTE.

ThepresentAbridgmentofMr.Layard'sDiscoveriesamongtheruinsofNinevehandBabylonhasbeenpreparedwithmuchcareandattention;andastudiousefforthasbeenmadetoretain,intheAuthor'sownlanguage,themoreinterestingandimportantportionsofthelargerwork.Thishasbeendonebyomittingthegreaterpartoftheminutedetailsofthedescriptionsofsculptureandmonumentalremains,bydispensingwithseveraltablesofcuneiformcharacters,elaborateexaminationsofvariousmattersbyscientificmen,&c.AtthesametimetherehasbeenretainedeverythingrelatingtotheBible,andillustratingandenforcingitstruthandthefulfilmentofprophecy;aswellasthegenialandlife-likeportraituresofArabhabitsandcustoms,andthepleasantadventuresof

theAuthorinregionsthattomostmenseemlikefairyland.

Forgeneraluseitisconfidentlyhopedandbelievedthatthepresentvolumewillbemorewidelyserviceablethanthelargerwork,fromitsexpensivenessandsize,couldpossiblybe.

S.

_New-York,May2d,1853._

PREFACE.

SincethepublicationofmyfirstworkonthediscoveriesatNinevehmuchprogresshasbeenmadeindecipheringthecuneiformcharacter,andthecontentsofmanyhighlyinterestingandimportantinscriptionshavebeengiventothepublic.FortheseadditionstoourknowledgewearemainlyindebtedtothesagacityandlearningoftwoEnglishscholars,Col.RawlinsonandtheRev.Dr.Hincks.Inmakinguseoftheresultsoftheirresearches,Ihavenotomittedtoownthesourcesfromwhichmy

7/31/2019 Ninevah


informationhasbeenderived.Itrust,also,thatIhaveinnoinstanceavailedmyselfofthelaborsofotherwriters,orofthehelpoffriends,withoutdueacknowledgments.Ihaveendeavoredtoassigntoeveryonehispropershareinthediscoveriesrecordedinthesepages.

IamawarethatseveraldistinguishedFrenchscholars,amongstwhomImaymentionmyfriends,M.BottaandM.deSaulcy,havecontributedtothesuccessfuldecipheringoftheAssyrianinscriptions.UnfortunatelyIhavebeenunabletoconsultthepublishedresultsoftheirinvestigations.If,therefore,Ishouldhaveoverlookedinanyinstancetheirclaimstopriordiscovery,Ihavetoexpressmyregretforanerrorarisingfromignorance,andnotfromanyunworthynationalprejudice.

Doubtsappeartobestillentertainedbymanyeminentcriticsastotheprogressactuallymadeindecipheringthecuneiformwriting.Thesedoubtsmayhavebeenconfirmedbytoohastytheoriesandconclusions,which,onsubsequentinvestigation,theirauthorshavebeenthefirsttowithdraw.Buttheunbiasedinquirercanscarcelynowrejecttheevidencewhichcanbebroughtforwardtoconfirmthegeneralaccuracyoftheinterpretationsoftheinscriptions.Hadtheyresteduponasingleword,oranisolatedparagraph,theirsoundnessmightreasonablyhavebeenquestioned;when,however,severalindependentinvestigatorshavearrivedatthesameresults,andhavenotonlydetectednumerousnamesofpersons,nations,andcitiesinhistoricalandgeographicalseries,buthavefoundthem

mentionedinproperconnectionwitheventsrecordedbysacredandprofanewriters,scarcelyanystrongerevidencecouldbedesired.Thereader,Iwouldfainhope,willcometothisconclusionwhenItreatofthecontentsofthevariousrecordsdiscoveredintheAssyrianpalaces.

ToMr.ThomasEllis,whohasaddedsomuchtothevalueofmyworkbyhistranslationsofinscriptionsonBabylonianbowls,nowforthefirsttime,throughhissagacity,deciphered;tothosewhohaveassistedmeinmylabors,andespeciallytomyfriendandcompanion,Mr.HormuzdRassam,totheRev.Dr.Hincks,totheRev.S.C.Malan,whohaskindlyallowedmetheuseofhismasterlysketches,toMr.Fergusson,Mr.Scharf,andtoMr.Hawkins,Mr.Birch,Mr.Vaux,andtheotherofficersoftheBritishMuseum,Ibegtoexpressmygratefulthanksandacknowledgments.

London,January,1853.

LISTOFILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

N.E.FAÇADEANDENTRANCETOSENNACHERIB'SPALACE,RESTORED_Frontispiece._

THEMELEKTAOUSORCOPPERBIRDOFTHEYEZIDIS46

SUBTERRANEANEXCAVATIONSATKOUYUNJIK61

MOUNDOFNIMROUD84

HEAD-DRESSOFCAPTIVESEMPLOYEDBYASSYRIANSINMOVINGBULL(KOUYUNJIK)92

7/31/2019 Ninevah


VILLAGEWITHCONICALROOFSNEARALEPPO97

BULLSWITHHISTORICALINSCRIPTIONSOFSENNACHERIB(KOUYUNJIK)113

SENNACHERIBONHISTHRONEBEFORELACHISH129

FEETOFTRIPODSINBRONZEANDIRON151

ACAPTIVE(OFTHETOKKARI?)KOUYUNJIK193

LIONDISCOVEREDATARBAN231

VOLCANICCONEOFKOUKAB268

ENTRANCETOSMALLTEMPLE(NIMROUD)_Facingpage_288

FISH-GODATENTRANCETOSMALLTEMPLE(NIMROUD)289

KURDSOFWAN320

FIGURESOFASSYRIANVENUSINBAKEDCLAY383

THEMUJELIBÉORKASR(FROMRICH)392

PLANOFPARTOFTHERUINSOFBABYLONONTHEEASTERNBANKOFTHEEUPHRATES396

JUGOFSOAPSTONE,FROMTHEMOUNDOFBABEL409

ASSYRIANPEDESTAL,FROMKOUYUNJIK477

PARTOFCOLOSSALHEAD,FROMKOUYUNJIK481

PLANOFTHEINCLOSUREWALLSANDDITCHESATKOUYUNJIK536

MAPOFASSYRIA,ETC.}_attheend._

GENERALMAPOFMESOPOTAMIA}

CONTENTS.

CHAPTERI.

TheTrusteesoftheBritishMuseumresumeExcavationsatNineveh.--DeparturefromConstantinople.--DescriptionofourParty.--RoadsfromTrebizondtoErzeroom.--Descriptionofthe

Country.--ArmenianChurches.--Erzeroom.--ReshidPasha.--TheDudjookTribes.--ShahanBey.--TurkishReform.--JourneythroughArmenia.--AnArmenianBishop.--TheLakesofShailuandNazik15

CHAPTERII.

TheLakeofWan.--Akhlat.--TatarTombs.--AncientRemains.--ADervish.--AFriend.--TheMudir.--ArmenianRemains.--AnArmenianConventandBishop.--JourneytoBitlis.--NimroudDagh.--

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Bitlis.--JourneytoKherzan.--YezidiVillage30

CHAPTERIII.

ReceptionbytheYezidis.--VillageofGuzelder.--TriumphalMarchtoRedwan.--Redwan.--ArmenianChurch.--TheMelekTaous,orBrazenBird.--Tilleh.--ValleyoftheTigris.--Bas-reliefs.--JourneytoDereboun.--ToSemil.--AbdeAgha.--JourneytoMosul.--TheYezidiChiefs.--ArrivalatMosul.--Xenophon'sMarchfromtheZabtotheBlackSea42

CHAPTERIV.

StateoftheExcavationsonmyReturntoMosul.--DiscoveriesatKouyunjik.--TunnelsintheMound.--Bas-reliefsrepresentingAssyrianConquests.--AWell.--SiegeofaCity.--NatureofSculpturesatKouyunjik.--ArrangementforRenewalofExcavations.--DescriptionofMound.--KiamilPasha.--VisittoSheikhAdi.--YezidiCeremonies.--SheikhJindi.--YezidiMeeting.--DressoftheWomen.--Bavian.--DoctrinesoftheYezidi.--Jerraiyah.--ReturntoMosul61

CHAPTERV.

RenewalofExcavationsatKouyunjik.--FirstVisittoNimroud.--StateofRuins.--RenewExcavationsinMound.--VisitofCol.Rawlinson.--Mr.H.Rassam.--TheJebourWorkmenatKouyunjik.--DiscoveriesatKouyunjik.--SculpturesrepresentingmovingofgreatStonesandWingedBulls.--Methodsadopted.--EpigraphsonBas-reliefsofmovingBulls.--SculpturesrepresentingInvasionofMountainousCountry,andSackofCity.--DiscoveryofGateway.--ExcavationinhighconicalMoundatNimroud.--DiscoveryofWallofStone.--VisittoKhorsabad.--DiscoveryofSlab.--StateoftheRuins.--Futhliyah.--Baazani.--Baasheikhah84

CHAPTERVI.

DiscoveryofGrandEntrancetothePalaceofKouyunjik.--OftheNameofSennacheribintheInscriptions.--TheRecordsofthatKingintheInscriptionsontheBulls.--AnAbridgedTranslationofthem.--NameofHezekiah.--AccountofSennacherib'sWarswiththeJews.--Dr.HincksandCol.Rawlinson.--TheNamesofSargonandShalmaneser.--DiscoveryofSculpturesatKouyunjik,representingtheSiegeofLachish.--DescriptionoftheSculptures.--DiscoveryofClaySeals.--OfSignetsofEgyptianandAssyrianKings.--CartoucheofSabaco.--Nameof

Essarhaddon.--ConfirmationofHistoricalRecordsoftheBible.--RoyalCylinderofSennacherib113

CHAPTERVII.

RoadopenforremovalofWingedLions.--DiscoveryofVaultedDrain.--OfotherArches.--OfPaintedBricks.--AttackoftheTaiontheVillageofNimroud.--VisittotheHowar.--DescriptionoftheEncampmentoftheTai.--ThePlainofShomamok.--Sheikh

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Faras.--WaliBey.--ReturntoNimroud137

CHAPTERVIII.

Contentsofnewly-discoveredChamber.--AWell.--LargeCopperCaldrons.--Bells,Rings,andotherObjectsinMetal.--Tripods.--CaldronsandlargeVessels.--BronzeBowls,Cups,andDishes.--DescriptionoftheEmbossingsuponthem.--ArmsandArmour.--Shields.--IronInstruments.--IvoryRemains.--BronzeCubesinlaidwithGold.--GlassBowls.--Lens.--TheRoyalThrone150

CHAPTERIX.

VisittotheWingedLionsbyNight.--TheBitumenSprings.--RemovaloftheWingedLionstotheRiver.--FloodsatNimroud.--YezidiMarriageFestival.--Baazani.--VisittoBavian.--SiteoftheBattleofArbela.--DescriptionofRock-Sculptures.--Inscriptions.--TheShabbaks167

CHAPTERX.

VisittoKalahSherghatprevented.--VisittoShomamok.--Keshaf.--TheHowar.--ABedouin.--HisMission.--DescentofArabHorses.--TheirPedigree.--RuinsofMokhamour.--TheMoundoftheKasr.--PlainofShomamok.--TheGlaorKalah.--XenophonandtheTenThousand.--AWolf.--ReturntoNimroudandMosul.--DiscoveriesatKouyunjik.--DescriptionoftheBas-reliefs182

CHAPTERXI.

PreparationsforaJourneytotheKhabour.--Sculpturesdiscoveredthere.--SheikhSuttum.--HisRediff.--DeparturefromMosul.--FirstEncampment.--AbouKhameera.--AStorm.--Tel

Ermah.--AStranger.--TelJemal.--TheChiefofTelAfer.--ASunsetintheDesert.--AJebourEncampment.--TheBelledSinjar.--TheSinjarHill.--Mirkan.--Bukra.--ThedressoftheYezidis.--TheShomal.--Ossofa.--Aldina.--ReturntotheBelled.--ASnake-Charmer.--JourneycontinuedintheDesert.--Rishwan.--EncampmentoftheBoraij.--DressofArabWomen.--Rathaiyah.--ADeputationfromtheYezidis.--ArabEncampments.--TheKhabour.--MohammedEmin.--ArrivalatArban195

CHAPTERXII.

Arban.--OurEncampment.--SuttumandMohammedEmin.--Winged

Bullsdiscovered.--Excavationscommenced.--TheirResults.--DiscoveryofSmallObjects--ofSecondPairofWingedBulls.--ofLion--ofChineseBottle--ofVase--ofEgyptianScarabs--ofTombs.--TheSceneoftheCaptivity225

CHAPTERXIII.

ResidenceatArban.--MohammedEmin'sTent.--TheAgaydat.--ourTents.--Bread-baking.--FoodoftheBedouins.--ThinBread.--The

7/31/2019 Ninevah


ProduceoftheirFlocks.--Diseasesamongstthem.--TheirRemedies.--TheDeloulorDromedary.--BedouinWarfare.--Suttum'sFirstWife.--AStorm.--Turtles.--Lions.--ABedouinRobber.--Beavers.--RidetoLedjmiyat--APlunderingExpedition.--LossofaHawk.--RuinsofShemshani.--ReturntoArban.--VisittoMoghamis237

CHAPTERXIV.

LeaveArban.--TheBanksoftheKhabour.--ArtificialMounds.--Mijwell.--TheCadioftheBedouins.--The_Thar_orBlood-Revenge.--CautionofArabs.--AnaturalCavern.--Anextinctvolcano.--TheConfluentsoftheKhabour.--BedouinMarks.--SuleimanAgha.--EncampmentatUm-Jerjeh.--TheTurkishIrregularCavalry.--MoundofMijdel.--RuinsontheKhabour.--MohammedEminleavesus.--VisittoKurdishTentsandHarem.--TheMilliKurds.--TheFamilyofRishwan.--ArabLove-making.--TheDakheel.--BedouinPoetsandPoetry.--TurkishCavalryHorses252

CHAPTERXV.

DeparturefromtheKhabour.--ArabSagacity.--TheHol.--TheLake

ofKhatouniyah.--ReturnofSuttum.--EncampmentoftheShammar.--ArabHorses--theirBreeds--theirValue--theirSpeed.--SheikhFerhan.--YezidiVillages.--Falcons.--AnAlarm.--AbouMaria.--EskiMosul.--ArrivalatMosul.--ReturnofSuttumtotheDesert268

CHAPTERXVI.

DiscoveriesatKouyunjik.--ProcessionofFiguresbearingFruitandGame.--Locusts.--LedHorses.--AnAssyrianCampaign.--Dagon,ortheFish-God.--TheChambersofRecords.--InscribedClayTablets.--ReturntoNimroud.--EffectsoftheFlood.--

Discoveries.--SmallTempleunderhighMound.--TheEvilSpirit.--Fish-God.--FineBas-reliefoftheKing.--ExtractsfromtheInscription.--GreatinscribedMonolith.--ExtractsfromtheInscription.--CedarBeams.--SmallObjects.--SecondTemple.--MarbleFigureandotherObjects280

CHAPTERXVII.

TheSummer.--EncampmentatKouyunjik.--Visitors.--ModeofLife.--DeparturefortheMountains.--Akra.--Rock-TabletsatGunduk.--DistrictofZibari.--NametAgha.--DistrictofShirwan--ofBaradost--ofGherdi--ofShemdina.--MousaBey.--

NestorianBishop.--ConventofMarHananisho.--Dizza.--AnAlbanianFriend.--Bash-Kalah.--IzzetPasha.--AJewishEncampment.--HighMountainPass.--Mahmoudiyah.--FirstViewofWan300

CHAPTERXVIII.

MehemetPasha.--DescriptionofWan.--ItsHistory.--ImprovementinitsCondition.--TheArmenianBishop.--TheCuneiform

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Inscriptions.--TheCavesofKhorkhor.--TheMeherKapousi.--ATradition.--ObservationsontheInscriptions.--TheBairam.--AnAmericanSchool.--TheAmericanMissions.--ProtestantMovementinTurkey.--Amikh.--TheConventofYediKlissia320

CHAPTERXIX.

LeaveWan.--TheArmenianPatriarch.--TheIslandofAkhtamar.--AnArmenianChurch.--HistoryoftheConvent.--PassintoMukus.--TheDistrictofMukus--ofShattak--ofNourdooz.--ANestorianVillage.--Encampments.--MountArarat.--MarShamoun.--Julamerik.--ValleyofDiz.--PassintoJelu.--NestorianDistrictofJelu.--AnancientChurch.--TheBishop.--DistrictofBaz--ofTkhoma.--ReturntoMosul337

CHAPTERXX.

DiscoveriesatKouyunjikduringtheSummer.--DescriptionoftheSculptures.--CaptureofCitiesonagreatRiver.--PompofAssyrianKing.--AlabasterPavement.--ConquestofTribesinhabitingaMarsh.--TheirWealth.--ChamberswithSculpturesbelongingtoanewKing.--DescriptionoftheSculptures.--

ConquestofthePeopleofSusiana.--PortraitoftheKing.--HisguardsandAttendants.--TheCityofShushan.--CaptivePrince.--Musicians.--CaptivesputtotheTorture.--ArtisticCharacteroftheSculptures.--AnInclinedPassage.--TwosmallChambers.--ColossalFigures.--MoreSculptures356

CHAPTERXXI.

PreparationsforleavingNineveh.--DepartureforBabylon.--DescentoftheRiver.--Tekrit.--TheStateoftheRiversofMesopotamia.--Commerceuponthem.--TurkishRoads.--ThePlainofDura.--TheNaharwan.--Samarrah.--Kadesia.--PalmGroves.--

Kathimain.--ApproachtoBaghdad.--TheCity.--Arrival.--Dr.Ross.--ABritishSteamer.--ModernBaghdad.--TelMohammed.--DepartureforBabylon.--APersianPrince.--AbdePasha'sCamp.--EasternFalconry.--HawkingtheGazelle.--ApproachtoBabylon.--TheRuins.--ArrivalatHillah372

CHAPTERXXII.

TheChiefsofHillah.--PresentofLions.--TheSonoftheGovernor.--DescriptionoftheTown.--Zaid.--TheRuinsofBabylon.--ChangesintheCourseoftheEuphrates.--TheWalls.--VisittotheBirsNimroud.--DescriptionoftheRuin.--Viewfrom

it.--ExcavationsandDiscoveriesintheMoundofBabel.--IntheMujelibéorKasr.--TheTreeAthelé.--ExcavationsintheRuinofAmran.--Bowls,withInscriptionsinHebrewandSyriacCharacters.--TheJewsofBabylonia392

CHAPTERXXIII.

StateoftheRuinsofBabylon.--CauseoftheDisappearanceofBuildings.--NatureoforiginalEdifices.--BabylonianBricks.--

7/31/2019 Ninevah


TheHistoryofBabylon.--ItsFall.--ItsRemarkablePosition.--Commerce.--CanalsandRoads.--SkillofBabyloniansintheArts.--EngravedGems.--CorruptionofManners,andconsequentFalloftheCity.--TheMeccaPilgrimage.--SheikhIbnReshid.--TheGebelShammar.--TheMoundsofElHymer--ofAnana419

CHAPTERXXIV.

RuinsinSouthernMesopotamia.--DeparturefromHillah.--Sand-Hills.--VillagesintheJezireh.--SheikhKarboul.--Ruins.--FirstViewofNiffer.--TheMarshes.--ArabBoats.--ArriveatSouk-el-Afaij.--SheikhAgab.--TownoftheAfaij.--DescriptionoftheRuinsofNiffer.--ExcavationsintheMounds.--DiscoveryofCoffins--ofvariousRelics.--Mr.Loftus'DiscoveriesatWurka.--TheArabTribes.--WildBeasts.--Lions.--CustomsoftheAfaij.--LeavetheMarshes.--ReturntoBaghdad.--AMirage437

CHAPTERXXV.

PreparationsforDeparture.--Sahiman.--PlunderofhisCamels.--LeaveBaghdad.--JourneythroughMesopotamia.--EarlyArab

Remains.--TheMedianWall.--Tekrit.--Horsesstolen.--InstancesofBedouinHonesty.--ExcavationsatKalahSherghat.--ReachMosul.--DiscoveriesduringAbsence.--NewChambersatKouyunjik.--DescriptionofBas-reliefs.--ExtentoftheRuinsexplored.--BasesofPillars.--Smallobjects.--RomanCoinsstruckatNineveh.--HoardofDenarii.--GreekRelics.--AbsenceofAssyrianTombs.--FragmentwithEgyptianCharacters.--AssyrianRelics.--RemainsbeneaththeTombofJonah.--DiscoveriesatShereef-Khan--atNimroud.--AssyrianWeights.--EngravedCylinders463

CHAPTERXXVI.

ResultsoftheDiscoveriestoChronologyandHistory.--NamesofAssyrianKingsintheInscriptions.--ADatefixed.--TheNameofJehu.--TheObeliskKing.--TheearlierKings--Sardanapalus.--HisSuccessors.--Pul,orTiglathPileser.--Sargon.--Sennacherib.--Essarhaddon.--ThelastAssyrianKings.--TablesofproperNamesintheAssyrianInscriptions.--AntiquityofNineveh.--OftheNameofAssyria.--IllustrationsofScripture.--StateofJudæaandAssyriacompared.--PoliticalConditionoftheEmpire.--AssyrianColonies.--ProsperityoftheCountry.--Religion.--ExtentofNineveh.--AssyrianArchitecture--ComparedwithJewish.--PalaceofKouyunjikrestored.--PlatformatNimroudrestored.--TheAssyrianfortifiedInclosures.--Descriptionof

Kouyunjik.--Conclusion491

NINEVEHANDBABYLON.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


CHAPTERI.

THETRUSTEESOFTHEBRITISHMUSEUMRESUMEEXCAVATIONSATNINEVEH.--DEPARTUREFROMCONSTANTINOPLE.--DESCRIPTIONOFOURPARTY.--ROADSFROMTREBIZONDTOERZEROOM.--DESCRIPTIONOFTHECOUNTRY.--ARMENIANCHURCHES.--ERZEROOM.--RESHIDPASHA.--THEDUDJOOKTRIBES.--SHAHANBEY.--TURKISHREFORM.--JOURNEYTHROUGHARMENIA.--ANARMENIANBISHOP.--THELAKESOFSHAILUANDNAZIK.

Afterafewmonths'residenceinEnglandduringtheyear1848,torecruitaconstitutionwornbylongexposuretotheextremesofanEasternclimate,IreceivedorderstoproceedtomypostatHerMajesty'sEmbassyinTurkey.TheTrusteesoftheBritishMuseumdidnot,atthattime,contemplatefurtherexcavationsonthesiteofancientNineveh.Illhealthandlimitedtimehadpreventedmefromplacingbeforethepublic,previoustomyreturnfromtheEast,theresultsofmyfirstresearches,withtheillustrationsofthemonumentsandcopiesoftheinscriptionsrecoveredfromtheruinsofAssyria.Theywerenotpublisheduntilsometimeaftermydeparture,anddidnotconsequentlyreceivethatcarefulsuperintendenceandrevisionnecessarytoworksofthisnature.ItwasatConstantinoplethatIfirstlearntthegeneralinterestfeltinEnglandinthediscoveries,andthattheyhadbeenuniversallyreceivedasfreshillustrationsofScriptureandprophecy,aswellasofancienthistory

sacredandprofane.Andletmehere,attheveryoutset,gratefullyacknowledgethatgenerousspiritofEnglishcriticismwhichoverlookstheincapacityandshortcomingsofthelaborerwhenhisobjectisworthyofpraise,andthatobjectissoughtwithsincerityandsinglenessofpurpose.Thegratitude,whichIdeeplyfeltforencouragementrarelyequalled,couldbebestshownbycheerfullyconsenting,withouthesitation,totherequestmadetomebytheTrusteesoftheBritishMuseum,urgedbypublicopinion,toundertakethesuperintendenceofasecondexpeditionintoAssyria.Beingaskedtofurnishaplanofoperations,Istatedwhatappearedtometobethecoursebestcalculatedtoproduceinterestingandimportantresults,andtoenableustoobtainthemostaccurateinformationontheancient

history,language,andarts,notonlyofAssyria,butofitssisterkingdom,Babylonia.Perhapsmyplanwastoovastandgeneraltoadmitofperformanceorwarrantadoption.IwasmerelydirectedtoreturntothesiteofNineveh,andtocontinuetheresearchescommencedamongstitsruins.

Arrangementswerehastily,andofcourseinadequately,madeinEngland.Theassistanceofacompetentartistwasmostdesirable,toportraywithfidelitythosemonumentswhichinjuryanddecayhadrenderedunfitforremoval.Mr.F.CooperwasselectedbytheTrusteesoftheBritishMuseumtoaccompanytheexpeditioninthiscapacity.Mr.HormuzdRassam,alreadywellknowntomanyofmyreadersforthesharehehadtakeninmyfirstdiscoveries,quittedEnglandwithhim.Theybothjoinedmeat

Constantinople.Dr.Sandwith,anEnglishphysicianonavisittotheEast,wasinducedtoformoneofourparty.OneAbd-el-Messiah,aCatholicSyrianofMardin,anactiveandtrustworthyservantduringmyformerresidenceinAssyria,wasfortunatelyatthistimeinthecapital,andagainenteredmyservice:myotherattendantswereMohammedAgha,acawass,andanArmeniannamedSerkis.ThefaithfulBairakdar,whohadsowellservedmeduringmypreviousjourney,hadaccompaniedtheEnglishcommissionforthesettlementoftheboundariesbetweenTurkeyandPersia;withtheunderstanding,however,thathewastomeetmeatMosul,incaseIshouldreturn.CawalYusuf,theheadofthePreachersoftheYezidis,

7/31/2019 Ninevah


withfourchiefsofthedistrictsintheneighbourhoodofDiarbekir,whohadbeenforsomemonthsinConstantinople,completedmyparty.

InconsequenceofthesevereandunjusttreatmentoftheYezidis,incompellingthemtoserveintheTurkisharmy,HusseinBeyandSheikhNasr,thechiefsofthewholecommunity,hearingthatIwasatConstantinople,sentadeputationtotheSultan.ThroughSirStratfordCanning'sfriendlyinterference,afirmanwasobtained,andtheywerefreedfromallillegalimpositionsforthefuture.

Ourarrangementswerecompletebythe28thofAugust(1849),andonthatdaywelefttheBosphorusbyanEnglishsteamerboundforTrebizond.Thesizeofmypartyanditsconsequentincumbrancesrenderingacaravanjourneyabsolutelynecessary,Ideterminedtoavoidtheusualtracks,andtocrosseasternArmeniaandKurdistan,bothonaccountofthenoveltyofpartofthecountryinageographicalpointofview,anditspoliticalinterestashavingonlyrecentlybeenbroughtundertheimmediatecontroloftheTurkishgovernment.

WedisembarkedatTrebizondonthe31st,andonthefollowingdaycommencedourlandjourney.ThecountrybetweenthisportandErzeroomhasbeenfrequentlytraversedanddescribed.ThroughitpassthecaravanroutesconnectingPersiawiththeBlackSea,thegreatlinesofintercourseandcommercebetweenEuropeandcentralAsia.Theroads

usuallyfrequentedarethreeinnumber.Thesummer,orupper,roadistheshortest,butismostprecipitous,and,crossingveryloftymountains,isclosedafterthesnowscommence;itiscalled_Tchaïrler_,fromitsfineuplandpastures,onwhichthehorsesareusuallyfedwhencaravanstakethisroute.Themiddleroadhasfewadvantagesovertheupper,andisrarelyfollowedbymerchants,whopreferthelower,althoughmakingaconsiderabledetourbyGumishKhaneh,ortheSilverMines.ThethreeuniteatthetownofBaiburt,midwaybetweentheseaandErzeroom.Althoughanactiveanddailyincreasingtradeiscarriedonbytheseroads,nomeanswhateverhaveuntilrecentlybeentakentoimprovethem.Theyconsistofmeremountaintracks,deepinmudordustaccordingtotheseasonoftheyear.Thebridgeshavebeenlongpermittedtofallintodecay,andcommerceisfrequentlystoppedfordaysbytheswollentorrentorfordless

stream.ThishasbeenoneofthemanyevilresultsofthesystemofcentralizationsovigorouslycommencedbySultanMahmoud,andsosteadilycarriedoutduringthepresentreign.

SincemyvisittoTrebizondaroadforcartshasbeencommenced,whichistoleadfromthatporttothePersianfrontiers;butitwill,probably,likeotherundertakingsofthekindbeabandonedlongbeforecompleted,orifevercompletedwillbepermittedatoncetofalltoruinfromthewantofcommonrepair.AndyetthePersiantradeisoneofthechiefsourcesofrevenueoftheTurkishempire,andunlessconveniencesareaffordedforitsprosecution,willspeedilypassintootherhands.ThesouthernshoresoftheBlackSea,twelveyearsagorarelyvisitedbyaforeignvessel,arenowcoastedbysteamersbelongingtothreecompanies,whichtouchnearly

weeklyattheprincipalports;andthereiscommerceandtrafficenoughformore.ThewantofproperharborsisaconsiderabledrawbackinthenavigationofaseasounstableanddangerousastheEuxine.Trebizondhasamereroadstead,andfromitspositionisotherwiselittlecalculatedforagreatcommercialport,which,likemanyotherplaces,ithasbecomeratherfromitshereditaryclaimsastherepresentativeofacityoncefamous,thanfromanylocaladvantages.TheonlyharbouronthesoutherncoastisthatofBatoun,noristhereanyretreatforvesselsontheCircassianshores.Thisplaceisthereforeprobablydestinedtobecometheemporiumoftrade,bothfromitssafeandspaciousport,andfromthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


facilityitaffordsofinternalcommunicationwithPersia,Georgia,andArmenia.

AtthebackofTrebizond,asindeedalongthewholeofthissingularlyboldandbeautifulcoast,themountainsriseinloftypeaks,andarewoodedwithtreesofenormousgrowthandadmirablequality,furnishinganunlimitedsupplyoftimberforcommerceorwar.Innumerablestreamsforcetheirwaytotheseathroughdeepandrockyravines.Themoreshelteredspotsareoccupiedbyvillagesandhamlets,chieflyinhabitedbyahardyandindustriousraceofGreeks.Inspringthechoicestflowersperfumetheair,andluxuriantcreepersclothethelimbsofgigantictrees.Insummertherichestpasturesenameltheuplands,andtheinhabitantsofthecoastsdrivetheirflocksandherdstothehigherregionsofthehills.

OurjourneytoErzeroomwasperformedwithoutincident.AheavyanduninterruptedrainfortwodaystriedthepatienceandtemperofthosewhoforthefirsttimeencounteredthedifficultiesandincidentsofEasterntravel.Theonlyplaceofanyinterest,passedduringourride,wasasmallArmenianvillage,theremainsofalarger,withtheruinsofthreeearlyChristianchurches,orbaptisteries.Theseremarkablebuildings,ofwhichmanyexamplesexist,belongtoanorderofarchitecturepeculiartothemosteasterndistrictsofAsiaMinorandtotheruinsofancientArmeniancities,onthebordersofTurkeyandPersia.TherearemanyinterestingquestionsconnectedwiththisArmenianarchitecturewhichwill

deserveelucidation.FromitwasprobablyderivedmuchthatpassedintotheGothic,whilsttheTatarconquerorsofAsiaMinoradoptedit,aswillbehereafterseen,fortheirmausoleumsandplacesofworship.Itispeculiarlyelegantbothinitsdecorations,itsproportions,andthegeneralarrangementofthemasses,andmightwithadvantagebestudiedbythemodernarchitect.Indeed,AsiaMinorcontainsamineofsimilarmaterialsunexploredandalmostunknown.

WereachedErzeroomonthe8th,andweremosthospitablyreceivedbytheBritishconsul,Mr.Brant,agentlemanwhohaslong,well,andhonorablysustainedourinfluenceinthispartofTurkey,andwhowasthefirsttoopenanimportantfieldforourcommerceinAsiaMinor.WithhimIvisitedthecommander-in-chiefoftheTurkishforcesinAnatolia,whohadrecently

returnedfromasuccessfulexpeditionagainstthewildmountaintribesofcentralArmenia.ReshidPasha,knownasthe"_Guzlu_,"orthe"WearerofSpectacles,"enjoyedtheadvantagesofanEuropeaneducation,andhadalreadydistinguishedhimselfinthemilitarycareer.WithaknowledgeoftheFrenchlanguageheunitedatasteforEuropeanliterature,which,duringhisnumerousexpeditionsintodistrictsunknowntowesterntravellers,hadledhimtoexaminetheirgeographicalfeatures,andtomakeinquiriesintothemannersandreligionoftheirinhabitants.HislastexploithadbeenthesubjugationofthetribesinhabitingtheDudjookMountains,tothesouth-westofErzeroom,longinopenrebellionagainsttheSultan.Theaccounthegavemeofthecountryanditsoccupants,thoughcuriousandinteresting,isnotperhapstobestrictlyreliedon,butadistricthithertoinaccessiblemaypossiblycontaintheremainsof

ancientraces,monumentsofantiquity,andnaturalproductionsofsufficientimportancetomerittheattentionofthetravellerinAsiaMinor.

ThecityofErzeroomisrapidlydeclininginimportance,andisalmostsolelysupportedbythePersiantransittrade.ItwouldbenearlydesertedifthattrafficweretobethrownintoanewchannelbytheconstructionofthedirectroadfromBatountothePersianfrontiers.Itcontainsnobuildingsofanyinterest,withtheexceptionofafewruinsofmonumentsofearlyMussulmandomination;andthemodernTurkishedifices,dignified

7/31/2019 Ninevah


withthenamesofpalacesandbarracks,aremeetingthefateofneglectedmud.

ThedistrictsofArmeniaandKurdistan,throughwhichlayourroadfromErzeroomtoMosul,aresufficientlyunknownandinterestingtomeritmorethanacasualmention.OurroutebythelakeofWan,Bitlis,andJezirahwasnearlyadirectone.Ithadbeenbutrecentlyopenedtocaravans.ThehauntsofthelastoftheKurdishrebelswereontheshoresofthislake.Afterthefallofthemostpowerfuloftheirchiefs,BederKhanBey,theyhadonebyonebeensubduedandcarriedawayintocaptivity.Onlyafewmonthshad,however,elapsedsincetheBeysofBitlis,whohadlongestresistedtheTurkisharms,hadbeencaptured.WiththemrebellionwasextinguishedforthetimeinKurdistan.

Ourcaravanconsistedofmyownparty,withtheadditionofamuleteerandhistwoassistants,nativesofBitlis,whofurnishedmewithseventeenhorsesandmulesfromErzeroomtoMosul.Thefirstday'sride,asiscustomaryintheEast,wherefriendsaccompanythetravellerfarbeyondthecitygates,andwherethepreparationsforajourneyaresonumerousthateverythingcannotwellberemembered,scarcelyexceededninemiles.WerestedforthenightinthevillageofGuli,whoseowner,oneShahanBey,hadbeenapprisedofmyintendedvisit.Hehadrenderedhisnewly-builthouseascomfortableashismeanswouldpermitforouraccommodation,and,afterprovidinguswithanexcellentsupper,passed

theeveningwithme.DescendedfromanancientfamilyofDereh-Beys,hehadinheritedthehospitalityandpolishedmannersofaclassnowalmostextinct,inconsequenceofthepolicypursuedbytheTurkishsultans,MahmoudandAbdul-Medjid,tobreakdownthegreatfamiliesandmenofmiddlerank,whoweremoreorlessindependent,andtoconsolidateandcentralizethevastOttomanempire.

ItiscustomarytoregardtheseoldTurkishlordsasinexorabletyrants--robberchiefs,wholivedontheplunderoftravellersandoftheirsubjects.Thatthereweremanywhoansweredtothisdescriptioncannotbedenied;buttheywere,Ibelieve,exceptions.Amongstthemweresomerichinvirtuesandhighandnoblefeeling.Ithasbeenfrequentlymylottofindarepresentativeofthisnearlyextinctclassinsomeremote

andalmostunknownspotinAsiaMinororAlbania.Ihavebeenreceivedwithaffectionatewarmthattheendofaday'sjourneybyavenerableBeyorAghainhisspaciousmansion,nowfastcrumblingtoruin,butstillbrightwiththeremainsofrich,yettasteful,orientaldecoration;hislongbeard,whiteassnow,fallinglowonhisbreast;hismany-foldedturbanshadowinghisbenevolentyetmanlycountenance,andhislimbsenvelopedinthenoblegarmentsrejectedbythenewgeneration;hishallopentoallcomers,theguestneitheraskedfromwhencehecameorwhitherhewasgoing,dippinghishandswithhiminthesamedish;hisservants,standingwithreverencebeforehim,ratherhischildrenthanhisservants;hisrevenuesspentinraisingfountains[1]onthewaysideforthewearytraveller,orinbuildingcaravanseraisonthedrearyplain;notonlyprofessing,butpractisingallthedutiesandvirtuesenjoinedbythe

Koran,whichareChristiandutiesandvirtuestoo;inhismanners,hisappearance,hishospitality,andhisfaithfulness,aperfectmodelforaChristiangentleman.Theraceisfastpassingaway,andIfeelgratefulinbeingabletotestify,withafewothers,toitsexistenceonce,againstprejudice,intolerance,andso-calledreform.

OurhostatGuli,ShahanBey,althoughnotanoldman,wasaveryfavorablespecimenoftheclassIhavedescribed.Hewastruly,inthenobleandexpressivephraseologyoftheEast,an"OjiakZadeh,""achildofthehearth,"agentlemanborn.Hisfamilyhadoriginallymigratedfrom

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Daghistan,andhisfather,apasha,haddistinguishedhimselfinthewarswithRussia.Heentertainedmewithanimatedaccountsoffeudsbetweenhisancestorsandtheneighbouringchiefs;andsteadilyrefusedtoallowanyrecompensetohimselforhisservantsforhishospitality.

FromGuliwecrossedahighrangeofmountains,runningnearlyeastandwest,byapasscalledAli-Baba,orAla-Baba,enjoyingfromthesummitanextensiveviewoftheplainofPasvin,onceoneofthemostthicklypeopledandbestcultivateddistrictsinArmenia.TheChristianinhabitantswerepartlyinducedbypromisesoflandandprotection,andpartlycompelledbyforce,toaccompanytheRussianarmyintoGeorgiaaftertheendofthelastwarwithTurkey.Bysimilarmeans,thatpartofthePashalicofErzeroomadjoiningtheRussianterritorieswasalmoststrippedofitsmostindustriousArmenianpopulation.Tothesouthofusrosethesnow-cappedmountainsoftheBin-Ghiul,orthe"ThousandLakes,"inwhichtheAraxesandseveralconfluentsoftheEuphrateshavetheirsource.Wedescendedfromthepassintoundulatingandbarrendowns.Thevillages,thinlyscatteredoverthelowhills,weredesertedbytheirinhabitants,who,atthisseasonoftheyear,pitchtheirtentsandseekpasturefortheirflocksintheuplands.

Nextdaywecontinuedourjourneyamongstundulatinghills,aboundinginflocksofthegreatandlesserbustard.Innumerablesheep-walksbranchedfromthebeatenpath,asignthatvillageswerenear;but,likethosewe

hadpassedthedaybefore,theyhadbeendesertedforthe_yilaks_,orsummerpastures.ThesevillagesarestillsuchastheywerewhenXenophontraversedArmenia."Theirhouses,"sayshe,"wereunderground;themouthresemblingthatofawell,butspaciousbelow:therewasanentrancedugforthecattle,buttheinhabitantsdescendedbyladders.Inthesehousesweregoats,sheep,cows,andfowls,withtheiryoung."[2]Thelowhovels,mereholesinthehill-side,andthecommonrefugeofman,poultry,andcattle,cannotbeseenfromanydistance,andtheyarepurposelybuiltawayfromtheroad,toescapetheunwelcomevisitsoftravellinggovernmentofficersandmarchingtroops.Itisnotuncommonforatravellertoreceivethefirstintimationofhisapproachtoavillagebyfindinghishorse'sforefeetdownachimney,andhimselftakinghisplaceunexpectedlyinthefamilycirclethroughtheroof.Numeroussmallstreams

windamongthevalleys,markingbymeanderinglinesofperpetualgreentheircoursetotheArras,orAraxes.Wecrossedthatriveraboutmid-daybyafordnotmorethanthreefeetdeep,butthebedofthestreamiswide,andafterrains,andduringthespring,iscompletelyfilledbyanimpassabletorrent.

DuringtheafternoonwecrossedthewesternspuroftheTiektabMountains,ahighandboldrangewiththreewelldefinedpeaks,whichhadbeenvisiblefromthesummitoftheAla-Babapass.FromthecrestwehadthefirstviewofSubhan,orSipan,Dagh,amagnificentconicalpeak,coveredwitheternalsnow,andrisingabruptlyfromtheplaintothenorthofLakeWan.Itisaconspicuousandbeautifulobjectfromeverypartofthesurroundingcountry.Wedescendedintothewideandfertileplainof

Hinnis.Thetownwasjustvisibleinthedistance,butweleftittotheright,andhaltedforthenightinthelargeArmenianvillageofKosli,afterarideofmorethanninehours.Iwasreceivedattheguesthouse(ahousereservedfortravellers,andsupportedbyjointcontributions),withgreathospitalitybyoneMisrabAgha,aTurk,towhomthevillageformerlybelongedasSpahilikormilitarytenure,andwho,deprivedofhishereditaryrights,hadnowfarmeditsrevenues.Hehurriedwithalongstickamongthelowhouses,andheapsofdrydung,piledupineveryopenspaceforwinterfuel,collectingfowls,curds,bread,andbarley,abusingatthesametimethe_tanzimat_,whichcompelledsuchexaltedtravellers

7/31/2019 Ninevah


asourselves,hesaid,"topayfortheprovisionswecondescendedtoaccept."Theinhabitantswerenot,however,backwardinfurnishinguswithallwewanted,andtheflourishofMisrabAgha'sstickwasonlytheremainsofanoldhabit.Iinvitedhimtosupperwithme,aninvitationhegladlyaccepted,havinghimselfcontributedatenderlambroastedwholetowardsourentertainment.

TheinhabitantsofKoslicouldscarcelybedistinguishedeitherbytheirdressorbytheirgeneralappearancefromtheKurds.TheyseemedprosperousandwereonthebesttermswiththeMussulmanfarmeroftheirtithes.ThevillagestandsatthefootofthehillsformingthesouthernboundaryoftheplainofHinnis,throughwhichflowsabranchoftheMuradSu,orLowerEuphrates.WefordedthisriverneartheruinsofabridgeatKaraKupri.Theplainisgenerallywellcultivated,theprincipalproducebeingcornandhemp.Thevillages,whicharethicklyscatteredoverit,havetheappearanceofextremewretchedness,and,withtheirlowhousesandheapsofdriedmanurepiledupontheroofsandintheopenspacesaround,lookmorelikegiganticdunghillsthanhumanhabitations.TheKurdsandArmenianChristians,bothhardyandindustriousraces,areprettyequallydividedinnumbers,andlivesociablyinthesamefilthandmisery.

WelefttheplainofHinnisbyapassthroughthemountainrangeofZernak.Onreachingthetopofthepasswehadaninterruptedviewofthe

SubhanDagh.FromthevillageofKaragol,wherewehaltedforthenight,itroseabruptlybeforeus.Thismagnificentpeak,withtheruggedmountainsofKurdistan,theriverEuphrateswindingthroughtheplain,thepeasantsdrivingtheoxenoverthecornonthethreshing-floor,andthegroupsofKurdishhorsemenwiththeirlongspearsandflowinggarments,formedoneofthosescenesofEasterntravelwhichleaveanindelibleimpressionontheimagination,andbringbackinafteryearsindescribablefeelingsofpleasureandrepose.

WecrossedtheprincipalbranchoftheEuphratessoonafterleavingKaragol.Althoughtheriverisfordableatthistimeofyear,duringthespringitisnearlyamileinbreadth,overflowingitsbanks,andconvertingtheentireplainintoonegreatmarsh.Wehadnowtopickour

waythroughaswamp,scaring,asweadvanced,myriadsofwild-fowl.Ihaverarelyseengameinsuchabundanceandsuchvarietyinonespot;thewaterswarmedwithgeese,duck,andteal,themarshygroundwithheronsandsnipe,andthestubblewithbustardsandcranes.Aftertherainsthelowerroadisimpassable,andcaravansareobligedtomakeaconsiderablecircuitalongthefootofthehills.

Wewerenotsorrytoescapethefever-breedingswampandmudoftheplain,andtoenteralineoflowhills,separatingusfromthelakeofGulaShailu.IstoppedforafewminutesatanArmenianmonastery,situatedonasmallplatformoverlookingtheplain.Thebishopwasathisbreakfast,hisfarefrugalandepiscopalenough,consistingofnothingmorethanboiledbeansandsourmilk.HeinsistedthatIshouldpartakeofhis

repast,andIdidso,inasmallroomscarcelylargeenoughtoadmittheroundtraycontainingthedishes,intowhichIdippedmyhandwithhimandhischaplain.Ifoundhimprofoundlyignorant,liketherestofhisclass,grumblingabouttaxes,andabusingtheTurkishgovernment.

Afterapleasantrideoffivehourswereachedadeepclearlake,embeddedinthemountains,twoorthreepelicans,"swanandshadowdouble,"andmyriadsofwaterfowl,lazilyfloatingonitsbluewaters.Piron,thevillagewherewehaltedforthenight,standsatthefurtherendoftheGulaShailu,andisinhabitedbyKurdsofthetribeofHasananlu,andby

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Armenians,alllivingingoodfellowshipamidstthedirtandwretchednessoftheireternaldung-heaps.Ophthalmiahadmadesadhavocamongstthem,andthedoctorwassoonsurroundedbyacrowdoftheblindanddiseasedclamoringforrelief.ThevillagerssaidthataPersian,professingtobeaHakim,hadpassedthroughtheplacesometimebefore,andhadofferedtocureallbadeyesonpaymentofacertainsuminadvance.Thesetermsbeingagreedto,hegavehispatientsapowderwhichleftthesoreeyesastheywere,anddestroyedthegoodones.Hethenwenthisway:"Andwiththemoneyinhispockettoo,"addedaferocious-lookingKurd,whoseappearancecertainlythrewconsiderabledoubtontheassertion;"butwhatcanonedointhesedaysofaccursedTanzimat(reform)?"

ThelakeofShailuisseparatedfromthelargerlakeofNazik,byarangeoflowhillsaboutsixmilesinbreadth.WereachedthesmallvillageofKhers,builtonitswesternextremity,inabouttwohoursandahalf,andfoundthechief,surroundedbytheprincipalinhabitants,seatedonaraisedplatformnearawell-builtstonehouse.Heassuredme,strokingabeardofspotlesswhitetoconfirmhiswords,thathewasaboveninetyyearsofage,andhadneverseenanEuropeanbeforethedayofmyvisit.Halfblind,hepeeredatmethroughhisbleareyesuntilhehadfullysatisfiedhiscuriosity;thenspokecontemptuouslyoftheFranks,andabusedtheTanzimat.Theoldgentleman,notwithstandinghisroughexterior,washospitableafterhisfashion,andwouldnotsufferustodepartuntilwehadeatenofeverydelicacythevillagecouldafford.

LeavingtheNazikGul,weenteredanundulatingcountrytraversedbyverydeepravines,merechannelscutintothesandstonebymountaintorrents.Thevillagesarebuiltatthebottomofthesegulleys,amidstfruit-treesandgardens,shelteredbyperpendicularrocksandwateredbyrunningstreams.Theyareundiscovereduntilthetravellerreachestheveryedgeoftheprecipice,whenapleasantandcheerfulsceneopenssuddenlybeneathhisfeet.Hewouldhavebelievedtheuppercountryameredeserthadhenotspiedhereandthereinthedistanceapeasantslowlydrivinghisploughthroughtherichsoil.Theinhabitantsofthisdistrictaremoreindustriousandingeniousthantheirneighbours.Theycarrytheproduceoftheirharvestnotonthebacksofanimals,asinmostpartsofAsiaMinor,butincartsentirelymadeofwood,noironbeingusedevenin

thewheels,whichareingeniouslybuiltofwalnut,oak,andkaraagatch(literally,blacktree--?thorn),thestrongerwoodsbeingusedforroughspokesletintothenave.TheploughalsodiffersfromthatingeneraluseinAsia.Totheshareareattachedtwoparallelboards,aboutfourfeetlongandafootbroad,whichseparatethesoilandleaveadeepandwelldefinedfurrow.

Werodefortwoorthreehoursontheseuplands,until,suddenlyreachingtheedgeofaravine,abeautifulprospectofalake,woodland,andmountainopenedbeforeus.

CHAPTERII.

THELAKEOFWAN.--AKHLAT.-TATARTOMBS.--ANCIENTREMAINS.--ADERVISH.--AFRIEND.--THEMUDIR.--ARMENIANREMAINS.--ANARMENIANCONVENTANDBISHOP.--JOURNEYTOBITLIS.--NIMROUDDAGH.--BITLIS.--JOURNEYTOKHERZAN.--YEZIDIVILLAGE.

ThefirstviewthetravellerobtainsoftheLakeofWan,ondescending

7/31/2019 Ninevah


towardsitfromthehillsaboveAkhlat,issingularlybeautiful.Thisgreatinlandsea,ofthedeepestblue,isboundedtotheeastbyrangesofserratedsnow-cappedmountains,peeringoneabovetheother,andspringinghereandthereintothehighestpeaksofTiyariandKurdistan;beneaththemliesthesacredislandofAkhtamar,justvisibleinthedistance,likeadarkshadowonthewater.AtthefurtherendrisestheonesublimeconeoftheSubhan,andalongthelowerpartoftheeasternshoresstretchestheNimroudDagh,variedinshape,andrichinlocaltraditions.

Atourfeet,aswedrewnightothelake,werethegardensoftheancientcityofAkhlat,leaningminaretsandpointedMausoleumspeepingabovethetrees.Werodethroughvastburying-grounds,aperfectforestofuprightstonessevenoreightfeethighoftherichestredcolour,mostdelicatelyandtastefullycarvedwitharabesqueornamentsandinscriptionsinthemassivecharacteroftheearlyMussulmanage.Inthemidstofthemrosehereandthereaconical_turbeh_[3]ofbeautifulshape,coveredwithexquisitetracery.Themonumentsofthedeadstillstand,andhavebecomethemonumentsofacity,itselflongcrumbledintodust.Amidstorchardsandgardensarescatteredhereandtherelowhousesrudelybuiltoutoftheremainsoftheearlierhabitations,andfragmentsofcorniceandsculpturearepiledupintothewallsaroundthecultivatedplots.

Beyondtheturbeh,saidtobethatofSultanBaiandourthroughadeepravinesuchasIhavealreadydescribed,runsabrawlingstream,crossed

byanoldbridge;orchardsandgardensmakethebottomofthenarrowvalley,andthecultivatedledgesasseenfromabove,abedoffoliage.Theloftyperpendicularrocksrisingonbothsidesareliterallyhoneycombedwithentrancestoartificialcaves,ancienttombs,ordwelling-places.Onahighisolatedmassofsandstonestandthewallsandtowersofacastle,theremainsoftheancientcityofKhelath,celebratedinArmenianhistory,andoneoftheseatsofArmenianpower.Iascendedtothecrumblingruins,andexaminedtheexcavationsintherocks.Thelatterarenowusedashabitations,andasstablesforherdsandflocks.

Manyofthetombsareapproachedbyflightsofsteps,alsocutintherock.Anentrance,generallysquare,unlesssubsequentlywidened,andeitherperfectlyplainordecoratedwithasimplecornice,opensintoa

spaciouschamber,whichfrequentlyleadsintoothersonthesamelevel,orbynarrowflightsofstepsintoupperrooms.Therearenotracesofthemeansbywhichtheseentranceswereclosed:theyprobablyweresobystones,turningonrudehinges,orrollingonrollers.

Leavingthevalleyandwindingthroughaforestoffruittrees,hereandthereinterspersedwithafewprimitivedwellings,IcametotheoldTurkishcastle,standingontheveryedgeofthelake.ItisapureOttomanedifice,lessancientthantheturbehs,ortheoldwallstoweringabovetheravine.InscriptionsoverthegatewaysstatethatitwaspartlybuiltbySultanSelim,andpartlybySultanSuleiman,andoverthenorthernentranceoccursthedateof975oftheHejira.Intheforttheredwelt,untilveryrecently,anotoriousKurdishfreebooter,ofthenameof

MehemetBey,who,secureinthisstronghold,ravagedthesurroundingcountry,andsorelyvexeditsChristianinhabitants.HefledontheapproachoftheTurkishtroops,aftertheirsuccessfulexpeditionagainstNur-UllahBey,andissupposedtobewanderinginthemountainsofsouthernKurdistan.

TheancientcityofKhelathwasthecapitaloftheArmenianprovinceofPeznouni.ItcameundertheMohammedanpowerasearlyastheninthcentury,butwasconqueredbytheGreeksoftheLowerEmpireattheendofthetenth.TheSeljukstookitfromthem,anditthenagainbecamea

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Mussulmanprincipality.ItwaslongaplaceofcontentionfortheearlyArabandTartarconquerors.ShahArmen[4]reducedittowardstheendofthetwelfthcentury.Itwasbesieged,withoutresult,bythecelebratedSaleh-ed-din,andwasfinallycapturedbyhisnephew,thesonofMelekAdel,inA.D.1207.

ThesunwassettingasIreturnedtothetents.Thewholescenewaslightedupwithitsgoldentints,andClaudenevercomposedasubjectmorebeautifulthanwasherefurnishedbynatureherself.Iwasseatedoutsidemytentgazinglistlesslyonthescene,whenIwasrousedbyawell-rememberedcry,butonewhichIhadnotheardforyears.IturnedaboutandsawstandingbeforemeaPersianDervish,clothedinthefawn-coloredgazelleskin,andwearingtheconicalredcap,edgedwithfur,andembroideredinblackbraidwithversesfromtheKoranandinvocationstoAli,thepatronofhissect.HewasnolesssurprisedthanIhadbeenathisgreeting,whenIgavehimtheanswerpeculiartomenofhisorder.Hewasmydevotedfriendandservantfromthatmoment,andsenthisboytofetchadishofpears,forwhichheactuallyrefusedapresenttentimestheirvalue.

Whilstwewereseatedchattinginthesoftmoonlight,Hormuzdwassuddenlyembracedbyayoungmanresplendentwithsilkandgoldembroideryandarmedtotheteeth.HewasachieffromthedistrictofMosul,andwellknowntous.Hearingofourarrivalhehadhastenedfromhisvillageat

somedistancetowelcomeus,andtoendeavourtopersuademetomovetheencampmentandpartakeofhishospitality.Failingofcourse,inprevailinguponmetochangemyquartersforthenight,hesenthisservanttohiswife,whowasaladyofMosul,andformerlyafriendofmycompanion's,forasheep.Wefoundourselvesthusunexpectedlyamongstfriends.OurcirclewasfurtherincreasedbyChristiansandMussulmansofAkhlat,andthenightwasfarspentbeforeweretiredtorest.

Inthemorning,soonaftersunrise,Irenewedmywanderingsamongsttheruins,firstcallingupontheMudir,orgovernor,whoreceivedmeseatedunderhisownfig-tree.Hewasanoldgreybeard,anativeoftheplace,andofastraightforward,honestbearing.Ihadtolistentotheusualcomplaintsofpovertyandover-taxation,although,afterall,thevillage,

withitsextensivegardens,onlycontributedyearlytenpurses,orlessthanforty-fivepounds,tothepublicrevenue.Thissumseemssmallenough,butwithouttrade,anddistantfromanyhighroad,therewasnotaparaofreadymoney,accordingtotheMudir,intheplace.

FromtheMudir'shouseIrodetothemoreancientpartofthecityandtotherock-tombs.Ienteredmanyofthese;andfoundallofthemtobeofthesamecharacter,thoughvaryinginsize.Amongstthemtherearegalleriesandpassagesinthecliffswithoutapparentuse,andflightsofsteps,cutoutoftherock,whichseemtoleadnowhere.Isearchedandinquiredinvainforinscriptionsandremainsofsculpture,andyettheplaceisofundoubtedantiquity,andintheimmediatevicinityofcotemporarysiteswherecuneiforminscriptionsdoexist.

DuringmywanderingsIenteredanArmenianchurchandconventstandingonaledgeofrockoverhangingthestream,aboutfourmilesupthesouthernravine.Theconventwastenantedbyabishopandtwopriests.Theydweltinasmalllowroom,scarcelylightedbyaholecarefullyblockedupwithasheetofoiledpapertoshutoutthecold;dark,musty,anddamp,averyparishclerkinEnglandwouldhaveshudderedatthesightofsucharesidence.Theirbed,acarpetworntothreads,spreadontherottenboards;theirdiet,thecoarsestsandybreadandalittlesourcurds,withbeansandmangymeatforajubilee.Amiserableoldwomansatinakindof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


vaultunderthestaircasepreparingtheirfood,andpassingherdaysinpushingtoandfrowithherskinnyhandsthegoat'sskincontainingthemilktobeshakenintobutter.Shewasthehousekeeperandhandmaidenoftheepiscopalestablishment.Thechurchwassomewhathigher,thoughevendarkerthanthedwelling-room,andwaspartlyusedtostoreaheapofmouldycornandsomeprimitiveagriculturalimplements.Thewholewaswellandstronglybuilt,andhadtheevidentmarksofantiquity.Thebishopshowedmearudecrosscarvedonarockoutsidetheconvent,which,hedeclared,hadbeencutbyoneofthedisciplesoftheSaviourhimself.Itis,atanyrate,consideredarelicofverygreatsanctity,andisanobjectofpilgrimageforthesurroundingChristianpopulation.

Onmyreturntoourencampmentthetentswerestruck,andthecaravanhadalreadybegunitsmarch.Timewouldnotpermitmetodelay,andwithadeeplongingtolingeronthisfavoredspot,IslowlyfollowedtheroadleadingalongthemarginofthelaketoBitlis.Ihaveseldomseenafairerscene,onericherinnaturalbeauties.TheartistandtheloverofnaturemayequallyfindatAkhlatobjectsofstudyanddelight.Thearchitect,orthetraveller,interestedinthehistoryofthatgracefulandhighlyoriginalbranchofart,whichattaineditsfullperfectionundertheArabrulersofEgyptandSpain,shouldextendhisjourneytotheremainsofancientArmeniancities,farfromhighroadsandmostlyunexplored.Hewouldthentracehowthatarchitecture,derivingitsnamefromByzantium,hadtakenthesamedevelopmentintheEastasitdidin

theWest,andhowitssubsequentcombinationwiththeelaboratedecoration,thevariedoutline,andtastefulcoloringofPersiahadproducedthestyletermedSaracenic,Arabic,andMoresque.Hewoulddiscoveralmostdaily,details,ornaments,andforms,recallingtohismindthevariousordersofarchitecture,which,atanearlyperiod,succeededtoeachotherinWesternEuropeandinEngland;modificationsofstyleforwhichwearemainlyindebtedtotheEastduringitscloseunionwiththeWestbythebondofChristianity.TheCrusaders,too,broughtbackintoChristendom,ontheirreturnfromAsia,atasteforthatrichandharmoniousunionofcolorandarchitecturewhichhadalreadybeensosuccessfullyintroducedbytheArabsintothecountriestheyhadconquered.

OurroadskirtedthefootoftheNimroudDagh,whichstretchesfromAkhlattothesouthernextremityofthelake.Wecrossedseveraldykesoflavaandscoria,andwidemud-torrentsnowdry,theoutpouringsofavolcanolongsinceextinct.Ourroadgraduallyledawayfromthelake.WithCawalYusufandmycompanionsIleftthecaravanfarbehind.Thenightcameon,andwewereshroudedindarkness.Wesoughtinvainforthevillagewhichwastoaffordusaresting-place,andsoonlostouruncertaintrack.TheCawaltooktheopportunityofrelatingtalescollectedduringformerjourneysonthisspot,ofrobberKurdsandmurderedtravellers,whichdidnottendtoremovetheanxietyfeltbysomeofmyparty.Atlength,afterwanderingtoandfroforaboveanhour,weheardthedistantjingleofthecaravanbells.Werodeinthedirectionofthewelcomesound,andsoonfoundourselvesattheArmenianvillageofKeswak,standinginasmall

bay,andshelteredbyarockypromontoryjuttingboldlyintothelake.

Nextmorningwerodealongthemarginofthelake,stillcrossingthespursoftheNimroudDagh,furrowedbynumerousstreamsoflavaandmud.Inoneofthedeepgulleys,openingfromthemountaintothewater'sedge,areanumberofisolatedmassesofsandstone,wornintofantasticshapesbythewintertorrents,whichsweepdownfromthehills.Thepeopleofthecountrycallthem"theCamelsofNimrod."Traditionsaysthattherebelliouspatriarch,endeavoringtobuildaninaccessiblecastle,strongenoughtodefybothGodandman,theAlmighty,topunishhisarrogance,

7/31/2019 Ninevah


turnedtheworkmen,astheywereworking,intostone.Therocksontheborderofthelakearethecamels,who,withtheirburdens,werepetrifiedintoaperpetualmemorialoftheDivinevengeance.Theunfinishedwallsofthecastlearestilltobeseenonthetopofthemountain;andthesurroundingcountry,theseatofaprimeævalrace,aboundsinsimilartraditions.

Weleftthesouthernendofthelake,neartheArmenianvillageofTadwan,onceaplaceofsomeimportance,andsoonenteredaruggedravine,wornbythemountainrills,collectedintoalargestream.Thiswasoneofthemanyhead-watersoftheTigris.Itwasflowingtumultuouslytoourownbourne,and,aswegazeduponthetroubledwaters,theyseemedtocarryusnearertoourjourney'send.Theravinewasatfirstwildandrocky;cultivatedspotsnextappeared,scatteredinthedrybedofthetorrent;thenafewgigantictrees;gardensandorchardsfollowed,andatlengththenarrowvalleyopenedonthelong,stragglingtownofBitlis.ThegovernorhadhereprovidedquartersforusinalargehousebelongingtoanArmenian,whohadbeentailortoBederKhanBey.

Mypartywasnow,forthefirsttimeduringthejourney,visitedwiththatcurseofEasterntravel,feverandague.Thedoctorwasprostrate,andhavingthennoexperienceofthemalady,atoncehaddreamsoftyphusandmalignantfever.Aday'srestwasnecessary,andourjadedhorsesneededitaswellaswe,fortherewerebadmountainroadsandlongmarches

beforeus.Ihadafurtherobjectinremaining:--thiswas,toobtainindemnityfortherobberycommittedonsomerelationsofCawalYusuftwoyearsbefore.TheofficialorderofReshidPasha,andthegovernor'sintervention,speedilyeffectedthedesiredarrangement.

Thegovernororderedcawassestoaccompanymethroughthetown.Ihadbeentoldthatancientinscriptionsexistedinthecastle,orontherock,butIsearchedinvainforthem:thosepointedouttomewereearlyMohammedan.Bitliscontainsmanypicturesqueremainsofmosques,baths,andbridges,andwasonceaplaceofconsiderablesizeandimportance.Itisbuiltintheverybottomofadeepvalley,andonthesidesofravines,wornbysmalltributariesoftheTigris.Theexporttradeischieflysuppliedbytheproduceofthemountains;galls,honey,wax,wool,and

carpetsandstuffs,wovenanddyedinthetents.ThedyesofKurdistan,andparticularlythosefromthedistrictsaroundBitlis,Sert,andJezireh,arecelebratedfortheirbrilliancy.Theyaremadefromherbsgatheredinthemountains,andfromindigo,yellowberries,andothermaterials,importedintothecountry.Thecarpetsareofarichsofttexture,thepatternsdisplayingconsiderableeleganceandtaste:theyaremuchesteemedinTurkey.TherewasafairshowofManchestergoodsandcoarseEnglishcutleryintheshops.Thesaleofarms,onceextensivelycarriedon,hadbeenprohibited.

Havingexaminedthetown,IvisitedtheArmenianbishop,whodwellsinalargeconventinoneoftheravinesbranchingofffromthemainvalley.OnmywayIpassedseveralhotsprings,somegurglingupintheverybedof

thetorrent.Thebishopwasmaudlin,old,anddecrepit;hecriedoverhisownpersonalwoes,andoverthoseofhiscommunity,abusedtheTurks,andtheAmericanmissionaries,whisperingconfidentiallyinmyearasiftheKurdswereathisdoor.Heinsistedinthemostendearingterms,andoccasionallythrowinghisarmsroundmyneck,thatIshoulddrinkacoupleofglassesoffieryraki,althoughitwasstillearlymorning,pledgingmehimselfineachglass.Heshowedmehischurch,anancientbuilding,wellhungwithmiserabledaubsofsaintsandmiracles.

TherearethreeroadsfromBitlistoJezireh;twooverthemountains

7/31/2019 Ninevah


throughSert,generallyfrequentedbycaravans,butverydifficultandprecipitous;athirdmorecircuitous,andwindingthroughthevalleysoftheeasternbranchoftheTigris.Ichosethelast,asitenabledmetovisittheYezidivillagesofthedistrictofKherzan.WeleftBitlisonthe20th.

AboutfivemilesfromBitlistheroadiscarriedbyatunnel,abouttwentyfeetinlength,throughamassofcalcareousrock,projectinglikeahugeribfromthemountain'sside.Themineralstream,whichinthelapseofageshasformedthisdeposit,isstillatwork,projectinggreatstalactitesfromitssides,andthreateningtocloseerelongthetunnelitself.Thereisnoinscriptiontorecordbywhomandatwhatperiodthispassagewascut.

Wecontinuedduringthefollowingdayinthesameravine,crossingbyancientbridgesthestream,whichwasgraduallygatheringstrengthasitadvancedtowardsthelowcountry.AboutnoonwepassedalargeKurdishvillage,calledGoeena,belongingtoSheikhKassim,oneofthosereligiousfanaticswhoarethecurseofKurdistan.HewasnotoriousforhishatredoftheYezidis,onwhosedistrictshehadcommittednumerousdepredations,murderingthosewhocamewithinhisreach.Hislastexpeditionhadnotprovedsuccessful;hewasrepulsed,withthelossofmanyofhisfollowers.Weencampedintheafternoononthebankofthetorrent,nearaclusterofKurdishtents,concealedfromviewbythebrushwoodandhigh

reeds.Theownerswerepoorbuthospitable,bringingusalamb,yahgourt,andmilk.Lateintheeveningapartyofhorsemenrodetoourencampment.TheywereayoungKurdishchief,withhisretainers,carryingoffagirlwithwhomhehadfalleninlove,--notanuncommonoccurrenceinKurdistan.Theydismounted,eatbread,andthenhastenedontheirjourneytoescapepursuit.

Startingnextmorningsoonafterdawnwerodefortwohoursalongthebanksofthestream,andthen,turningfromthevalley,enteredacountryoflowundulatinghills.WehaltedforafewminutesinthevillageofOmais-el-Koran,belongingtooneoftheinnumerablesaintsoftheKurdishmountains.TheSheikhhimselfwasonhisterracesuperintendingtherepairofhishouse,gratuitouslyundertakenbytheneighbouringvillagers,who

cameeagerlytoengageinagoodandpiouswork.Leavingasmallplain,weascendedalowrangeofhillsbyaprecipitouspathway,andhaltedonthesummitataKurdishvillagenamedKhokhi.ItwasfilledwithBashi-Bozuks,orirregulartroops,collectingtherevenue,andtherewassuchageneralconfusion,quarrellingofmenandscreamingofwomen,thatwecouldscarcelygetbreadtoeat.Yettheofficerassuredmethatthewholesumtoberaisedamountedtonomorethanseventypiastres(aboutthirteenshillings.)Thepovertyofthevillagemustindeedhavebeenextreme,orthebadwilloftheinhabitantsoutrageous.

ItwaseveningbeforewedescendedintotheplaincountryofthedistrictofKherzan.TheYezidivillageofHamkihadbeenvisibleforsometimefromtheheights,andweturnedtowardsit.Asthesunwasfastsinking,

thepeasantswereleavingthethreshing-floor,andgatheringtogethertheirimplementsofhusbandry.Theysawthelargecompanyofhorsemendrawingnigh,andtookusforirregulartroops,--theterrorofanEasternvillage.CawalYusuf,concealingallbuthiseyeswiththeArabkefieh,whichhethenwore,rodeintothemidstofthem,anddemandedinaperemptoryvoiceprovisionsandquartersforthenight.Thepoorcreatureshuddledtogether,unwillingtogrant,yetfearingtorefuse.TheCawal,havingenjoyedtheiralarmforamoment,threwhiskerchieffromhisface,exclaiming,"Oevilones,willyourefusebreadtoyourpriest,andturnhimhungryfromyourdoor?"Therewassurelythennounwillingnessto

7/31/2019 Ninevah


receiveus.Castingasidetheirshovelsandforks,thementhrewthemselvesupontheCawal,eachstrugglingtokisshishand.Thenewsspreadrapidly,andtherejoicingwassogreatthatthevillagewasalivewithmerrimentandfeasting.

Yusufwassoonseatedinthemidstofacircleoftheelders.Hetoldhiswholehistory,withsuchdetailsandillustrationsasanEasternalonecanintroduce,tobringeveryfactvividlybeforehislisteners.Nothingwasomitted:hisarrivalatConstantinople,hisreceptionbyme,hisintroductiontotheambassador,hisinterviewwiththegreatministersofstate,thefirmanoffutureprotectionfortheYezidis,prospectsofpeaceandhappinessforthetribe,ourdeparturefromthecapital,thenatureofsteamboats,thetossingofthewaves,thepainsofsea-sickness,andourjourneytoKherzan.Notthesmallestparticularwasforgotten;and,whenhehadfinished,itwasmyturntobetheobjectofunboundedwelcomesandsalutations.

AstheCawalsatontheground,withhisnoblefeaturesandflowingrobes,surroundedbytheeldersofthevillage,eagerlistenerstoeverywordwhichdroppedfromtheirpriest,andlookingtowardshimwithlooksofprofoundveneration,thepicturebroughtvividlytomymindmanyscenesdescribedinthesacredvolumes.Letthepainterwhowouldthrowofftheconventionalitiesoftheage,whowouldfeelaswellasportraytheincidentsofHolyWrit,wanderintheEast,andmix,notastheordinary

traveller,butasastudentofmenandofnature,withitspeople.Hewilldailymeetwithcustomswhichhewillotherwisebeatalosstounderstand,andbebroughtfacetofacewiththosewhohaveretainedwithlittlechangethemanners,language,anddressofapatriarchalrace.

CHAPTERIII.

RECEPTIONBYTHEYEZIDIS.--VILLAGEOFGUZELDER.--TRIUMPHALMARCHTOREDWAN.--REDWAN.--ARMENIANCHURCH.--THEMELEKTAOUS,ORBRAZENBIRD.--TILLEH.--VALLEYOFTHETIGRIS.--BASRELIEFS.--JOURNEYTO

DEREBOUN--TOSEMIL--ABDEAGHA--JOURNEYTOMOSUL.--THEYEZIDICHIEFS.--ARRIVALATMOSUL.--XENOPHON'SMARCHFROMTHEZABTOTHEBLACKSEA.

Iwasawokeonthefollowingmorningbythetreadofhorsesandthenoiseofmanyvoices.ThegoodpeopleofHamkihavingsentmessengersinthenighttothesurroundingvillagestospreadthenewsofourarrival,alargebodyofYezidisonhorseandonfoothadalreadyassembled,althoughitwasnotyetdawn,togreetusandtoescortusonourjourney.Theyweredressedintheirgayestgarments,andhadadornedtheirturbanswithflowersandgreenleaves.TheirchiefwasAkko,awarriorwellknownintheYezidiwars,stillactiveanddaring,althoughhisbeardhadlong

turnedgrey.TheheadofthevillageofGuzelder,withtheprincipalinhabitants,hadcometoinvitemetoeatbreadinhishouse,andwefollowedhim.Aswerodealongwewerejoinedbypartiesofhorsemenandfootmen,eachmankissingmyhandashearrived,thehorsemenalightingforthatpurpose.BeforewereachedGuzeldertheprocessionhadswollentomanyhundreds.Themenhadassembledatsomedistancefromthevillage,thewomenandchildren,dressedintheirholidayattire,andcarryingboughsoftrees,congregatedonthehousetops.

SoonafterourarrivalseveralFakirs[5],intheirdarkcoarsedressesand

7/31/2019 Ninevah


redandblackturbans,cametousfromtheneighbouringvillages.Otherchiefsandhorsemenalsoflockedin,andwereinvitedtojoininthefeast,whichwasnot,however,servedupuntilCawalYusufhadrelatedhiswholehistoryoncemore,withoutomittingasingledetail.Afterwehadeatenofstuffedlambs,pillaws,andsavorydishesandmostlusciousgrapes,theproduceofthedistrict,ourentertainerplacedapresentofhome-madecarpetsatmyfeet,andwerosetodepart.Thehorsemen,theFakirs,andtheprincipalinhabitantsofGuzelderonfootaccompaniedme.AtashortdistancefromthevillageweweremetbyanotherlargebodyofYezidis,andbymanyJacobites.Abishopandseveralpriestswerewithhim.Twohours'ride,withthisgreatcompany,thehorsemengallopingtoandfro,thefootmendischargingtheirfirearms,broughtustothelargevillageofKoshana.Thewholeofthepopulation,mostlydressedinpurewhite,andwearingleavesandflowersintheirturbans,hadturnedouttomeetus;womenstoodontheroad-sidewithjarsoffreshwaterandbowlsofsourmilk,whilstotherswiththechildrenwereassembledonthehousetopsmakingthe_tahlel_.Resistinganinvitationtoalightandeatbread,andhavingmerelystoppedtoexchangesalutationswiththoseassembled,IcontinuedontheroadtoRedwan,ourpartyswollenbyafreshaccessionoffollowersfromthevillage.AswepassedthroughthedefileleadingintotheplainofRedwan,wehadtheappearanceofatriumphalprocession,butasweapproachedthesmalltownastillmoreenthusiasticreceptionawaitedus.Firstcamealargebodyofhorsemen,collectedfromtheplaceitself,andtheneighbouringvillages.Theywerefollowedby

Yezidisonfoot,carryingflowersandbranchesoftrees,andprecededbymusiciansplayingonthetubbulandzernai.[6]NextweretheArmeniancommunityheadedbytheirclergy,andthentheJacobiteandotherChristiansects,alsowiththeirrespectivepriests;thewomenandchildrenlinedtheentrancetotheplaceandthrongedthehousetops.Ialightedamidstthedinofmusicandthe"tahlel"atthehouseofNazi,thechiefofthewholeYezididistrict,twosheepbeingslainbeforemeasItookmyfeetfromthestirrups.

ItookupmyquartersintheArmenianchurch,diningintheeveningwiththechiefstowitnessthefestivities.

Thechangewasindeedgratefultome,andIfoundatlengthalittle

reposeandleisuretoreflectuponthegratifyingscenetowhichIhadthatdaybeenwitness.Ihave,perhaps,beentoominuteintheaccountofmyreceptionatRedwan,butIrecordwithpleasurethisinstanceofasincereandspontaneousdisplayofgratitudeonthepartofamuchmalignedandoppressedrace.Tothose,unfortunatelytoomany,whobelievethatEasternscanonlybemanagedbyviolenceandswayedbyfear,letthisrecordbeaproofthattherearehighandgenerousfeelingswhichmaynotonlybereliedandacteduponwithoutinterferingwiththeirauthority,orcompromisingtheirdignity,butwitheveryhopeoflayingthefoundationofrealattachmentandmutualesteem.

Thechurchstandsontheslopeofamound,onthesummitofwhicharetheruinsofacastlebelongingtotheformerchiefsofRedwan.Itwasbuilt

expresslyfortheChristiansoftheArmeniansectbyMirzaAgha,thelastsemi-independentYezidichief,apleasingexampleoftolerationandliberalitywellworthyofimitationbymorecivilisedmen.Servicewasperformedintheopeniwan,orlargevaultedchamber,duringtheafternoon,thecongregationkneelinguncoveredintheyard.ThepriestsofthedifferentcommunitiescalleduponmeassoonasIwasreadytoreceivetheirvisits.ThemostintelligentamongstthemwasaRomanCatholicChaldæan,agoodhumoured,tolerantfellow,whowithaverysmallcongregationofhisowndidnotbearanyill-willtohisneighbours.WiththeprincipalYezidichiefs,too,Ihadalongandinteresting

7/31/2019 Ninevah


conversationonthestateoftheirpeopleandontheirprospects.

Redwaniscalledatown,becauseithasabazar,andisthechiefplaceofaconsiderabledistrict.Itmaycontainabouteighthundredrudely-builthuts,andstandsonalargestream,whichjoinstheDiarbekirbranchoftheTigris,aboutfiveorsixmilesbelow.TheinhabitantsareYezidis,withtheexceptionofaboutonehundredArmenian,andfortyorfiftyJacobiteandChaldæanfamilies.ATurkishMudir,orpettygovernor,generallyresidesintheplace,butwasabsentatthetimeofmyvisit.

Wesleptinalongroomopeningonthecourtyard,andwereawokelongbeforedaybreakbythejinglingofsmallbellsandthemumblingofpriests.ItwasSunday,andtheArmenianscommencetheirchurchservicesbetimes.Igazedhalfdozing,andwithoutrisingfrommybed,upontheceremonies,thebowing,raisingofcrosses,andshakingofbells,whichcontinuedforabovethreehours,untilpriestsandcongregationmusthavebeenwellnighexhausted.Thepeople,asduringthepreviousafternoon'sservice,stoodandkneltuncoveredinthecourtyard.

[Illustration:TheMelekTaous,orCopperBirdoftheYezidis.]

TheCawals,whoaresentyearlybyHusseinBeyandSheikhNasrtoinstructtheYezidisintheirfaith,andtocollectthecontributionsformingtherevenuesofthegreatchief,andofthetombofSheikhAdi,werenowin

Redwan.ThesameCawalsdonottakethesameroundseveryyear.TheYezidisareparcelledoutintofourdivisionsforthepurposeoftheseannualvisitations,thoseoftheSinjar,ofKherzan,ofthepashalicofAleppo,andofthevillagesinnorthernArmenia,andwithintheRussianfrontiers.TheYezidisoftheMosuldistrictshavetheCawalsalwaysamongstthem.IwasawarethatontheoccasionofthesejourneysthepriestscarrywiththemthecelebratedMelekTaous,orbrazenpeacock,asawarrantfortheirmission.Asthiswasafavorableopportunity,Iaskedandobtainedasightofthismysteriousfigure.Astandofbrightcopperorbrass,inshapelikethecandlesticksgenerallyusedinMosulandBaghdad,wassurmountedbytherudeimageofabirdinthesamemetal,andmorelikeanIndianorMexicanidolthanacockorpeacock.Itspeculiarworkmanshipindicatedsomeantiquity,butIcouldseenotracesof

inscriptionuponit.Beforeitstoodacopperbowltoreceivecontributions,andabagtocontainthebirdandstand,whichtakestopieceswhencarriedfromplacetoplace.Therearefoursuchimages,oneforeachdistrictvisitedbytheCawals.TheYezidisdeclarethat,notwithstandingthefrequentwarsandmassacrestowhichthesecthasbeenexposed,andtheplunderandmurderofthepriestsduringtheirjourneys,noMelekTaoushaseverfallenintothehandsoftheMussulmans.Mr.HormuzdRassamwasalonepermittedtovisittheimagewithme.AsIhaveelsewhereobserved,[7]itisnotlookeduponasanidol,butasasymbolorbanner,asSheikhNasrtermedit,ofthehouseofHusseinBey.

HavingbreakfastedatNazi'shouseweleftRedwan,followedbyalargecompanyofYezidis,whomIhadgreatdifficultyinpersuadingtoturnback

aboutthreeorfourmilesfromthetown.Mypartywasincreasedbyaveryhandsomeblackandtangreyhoundwithlongsilkyhair,apresentfromoldAkko,theYezidichief.Touar,forsuchwasthedog'sname,soonforgothisoldmasters,andformedanequalattachmentforhisnew.

CawalYusuf,andtheYezidichiefs,hadsentmessengerseventoHusseinBeytoapprisehimofourcoming.Astheytravelledalongtheyscatteredthenewsthroughthecountry,andIwasreceivedoutsideeveryvillagebyitsinhabitants.AtTilleh,theunitedwatersofBitlis,Sert,andtheupperdistrictsofBohtan,jointhewesternbranchoftheTigris.Thetwo

7/31/2019 Ninevah


streamsareaboutequalinsize,andatthistimeoftheyearbothfordableincertainplaces.Wecrossedthelower,oreastern,whichwefoundwideandexceedinglyrapid,thewater,however,notreachingabovethesaddle-girths.

Thespotatwhichwecrossedwasoneofpeculiarinterest.ItwasherethattheTenThousandintheirmemorableretreatfordedthisriver,called,byXenophon,theCentritis.TheGreekshavingfoughttheirwayovertheloftymountainsoftheCarduchians,foundtheirfurtherprogresstowardsArmeniaarrestedbyarapidstream.Thefordwasdeep,anditspassagedisputedbyaformidableforceofArmenians,Mygdonians,andChaldæans,drawnuponaneminence300or400feetfromtheriver.InthisstraitXenophondreamtthathewasinchains,andthatsuddenlyhisfettersburstasunderoftheirownaccord.Hisdreamwasfulfilledwhentwoyouthscasuallyfoundamorepracticableford,bywhichthearmy,afteraskilfulstratagemonthepartoftheircommander,safelyreachedtheoppositebank.[8]

Thesunhadsetbeforeourbaggagehadbeencrossed,andwesought,bythelightofthemoon,thedifficulttrackalongtheTigris,wheretheriverforcesitswaytothelowcountryofAssyria,throughalong,narrow,anddeepgorge.Hugerocksroseperpendicularlyoneitherside,brokenintomanyfantasticshapes,andthrowingtheirdarkshadowsoverthewater.Insomeplacestheyscarcelyleftroomfortherivertopursueitscourse;

andthenafootpath,hardlywideenoughtoadmittheloadedmules,wascarriedalongamereledgeoverhangingthegurglingstream.Thegradualdeepeningofthisoutletduringcountlesscenturiesisstrikinglyshownbytheledgeswhichjuttoutlikeasuccessionofcornicesfromthesidesofthecliffs.Thelastledgeleftbytheretiringwatersformedourpathway.

WefoundnovillageuntilwereachedChellek.TheplacehadbeendesertedbyitsinhabitantsfortheYilaks,ormountainpastures.

ForthreehoursduringthefollowingmorningwefollowedtheboldandmajesticravineoftheTigris,scenesrivallingeachotheringrandeurandbeautyopeningateveryturn.Leavingtheriver,whereitmakesasuddenbendtothenorthward,wecommencedasteepascent,andinanhouranda

halfreachedtheChristianvillageofKhouara.Werestedduringtheheatofthedayunderthegratefulshadeofagroveoftrees,andintheafternoonwestoodonthebrinkofthegreatplatformofCentralAsia.BeneathuswerethevastplainsofMesopotamia,lostinthehazydistance,theundulatinglandbetweenthemandtheTaurusconfounded,fromsogreataheight,withtheplainsthemselves;thehillsoftheSinjarandofZakko,likeridgesonanembossedmap;theTigrisandtheKhabour,windingthroughthelowcountrytotheirplaceofjunctionatDereboun;totheright,facingthesettingsun,andcatchingitslastrays,thehighconeofMardin;behind,aconfusedmassofpeaks,somesnow-capped,allruggedandbroken,oftheloftymountainsofBohtanandMalataiyah;betweenthemandthenorthernrangeofTaurus,thedeepravineoftheriverandthevalleyofRedwan.Iwatchedtheshadowsastheylengthenedovertheplain,

meltingonebyoneintothegeneralgloom,andthendescendedtothelargeKurdishvillageofFunduk,whoseinhabitants,duringtheruleofBederKhanBey,werenotoriousamongsteventhesavagetribesofBohtanfortheirhatredandinsolencetoChristians.

Althoughwehadnownothingtofear,Ipreferredseekinganotherspotforournight'shalt,butthiswasnotpermittedbyResoulKiayah,whosentafterus,andwassourgentinhishospitalitythatwewerecompelledtopassthenightinthevillage.TheKurdsofFundukweartheBohtandressinitsfullperfection,aturbannearlythreefeetindiameter,shalwars

7/31/2019 Ninevah


ortrowsersofenormouswidth,looseembroideredjackets,andshirtsleevessweepingtheground;allbeingstripeddeepdullredandblack,excepttheunder-linenandonekerchieftieddiagonallyacrosstheturban,whichisgenerallyofbrightyellow.Theyarearmed,too,totheteeth,andastheycrouchedroundthefiresonthehousetops,theirsavagecountenancespeeringthroughthegloom,myLondoncompanion,unusedtosuchscenes,mightwellhavefanciedhimselfinadenofthieves.TheKiayah,notwithstandinghisbadreputation,wasexactinallthedutiesofhospitality;thesupperwasabundant,thecoffeeflowedperpetually,andhesatisfiedmycuriosityuponmanypointsofrevenue,internaladministration,tribe-history,andlocalcuriosities.

Wepassedthenightontheroofwithoutanyadventure,andresumedourjourneybeforedawnonthefollowingmorning,tothegreatreliefofMr.C.,whorejoicedtofeelhimselfwelloutofthehandsofsuchdangeroushosts.Crossingamountainwoodedwithdwarfoaks,byaverydifficultpathway,carriedalongandoverrockscontainingmanyexcavatedtombs,wedescendedtoFynyk,avillageontheTigrissupposedtooccupythesiteofanancienttown(Phoenica).[9]

Afterwehadbreakfasted,someKurdswhohadgatheredroundus,offeredtotakemetoarock,sculptured,theysaid,withunknownFrankfigures.Werodeupanarrowandshadyravine,throughwhichleaptabrawlingtorrent,wateringfruittreesandmelonbeds.Therocksonbothsideswere

honeycombedwithtombs.Thebas-reliefissomewhatabovethelineofcultivation,andissurroundedbyexcavatedchambers.Itconsistsoftwofigures,dressedinloosevestsandtrowsers,oneapparentlyrestinghishandontheshoulderoftheother.Therearetheremainsofaninscription,buttoomuchweather-worntobecopiedwithanyaccuracy.Thecostumeofthefigures,andtheformsofthecharacters,asfarastheycanbedistinguished,provethatthetabletbelongstotheParthianperiod.

WequittedFynykintheafternoon.AccompaniedbyCawalYusufandMr.C.,Ileftthecaravantoexaminesomerock-sculptures,inavalleyleadingfromJezirehtoDerghileh,theformerstrongholdofBederKhanBey.Thesculpturesareabouttwomilesfromthehighroad,nearasmallfortbuilt

byMirSaif-ed-din,andnowoccupiedbyagarrisonofArnaouts.Therearetwotablets,oneabovetheother;theuppercontainsawarrioronhorseback,thelowerasinglefigure.Althoughnotracesofinscriptionremain,thebas-reliefsmayconfidentlybeassignedtothesameperiodasthatatFynyk.

WefoundthecaravanatMansouriyah,wheretheyhadestablishedthemselvesforthenight.ThisisoneoftheveryfewNestorianChaldæanvillagesoftheplainswhichhasnotgoneovertotheRomanCatholicfaith.Itcontainsachurch,andsupportsapriest.Theinhabitantscomplainedmuchofoppression,andunfortunately,chieflyfrombrotherChristiansformerlyoftheirowncreed.Iwasmuchstruckwiththeintelligenceandbeautyofthechildren;oneboy,scarcelytwelveyearsofage,wasalreadya

shamasha,ordeacon,andcouldreadwitheasetheScripturesandthecommentaries.

WeleftMansouriyahatfourinthemorning,passingJezirehaboutdawn,itstowersandwallsjustvisiblethroughthehazeontheoppositebankoftheTigris.ShortlyafterwewereunexpectedlymetbyanumberofYezidihorsemen,fromwhomwelearntthatthecountrywasinaverydisturbedstate,onaccountoftheincursionsoftheDesertArabs;butasastrongpartywaswaitingtoaccompanyustoSemil,Ideterminedupontakingtheshorter,thoughmoredangerousandlessfrequented,roadbyDereboun.This

7/31/2019 Ninevah


road,impracticabletocaravansexceptwhentheriverKhabourisfordable,windsroundthespuroftheZakkohills,andthusavoidsadifficultandprecipitouspass.DerebounisalargeYezidivillagestandingonthewesternspuroftheZakkorange.Numerousspringsburstfromthesurroundingrocks,andirrigateextensiverice-grounds.BelowisthelargeChristianvillageofFeshapoor,wherethereisaferryacrosstheTigris.WeweremosthospitablyentertainedbytheYezidichief,oneofthehorsemenwhohadmetusnearJezireh.

Wemountedourhorsesasthemoonrose,andresumedourjourney,accompaniedbyastrongescort,whichleftuswhenwewerewithinfiveorsixmilesofSemil.Itwaslateintheforenoonbeforewereachedourhalting-place,afteradrearyandfatiguingride.WewerenowfairlyintheAssyrianplains;theheatwasintense--thatheavyheat,whichseemstoparalyseallnature,causingtheveryairitselftovibrate.ThehighartificialmoundoftheYezidivillage,crownedbyamodernmud-builtcastle,hadbeenvisibleinthedistancelongbeforewereachedit,miragedintodoubleitsrealsize,andintoanimposinggroupoftowersandfortifications.Almostovercomewithweariness,wetoileduptoit,andfounditsowner,AbdeAgha,theYezidichieftain,seatedinthegate,avaultedentrancewithdeeprecessesonbothsides,usedasplacesofassemblyforbusinessduringtheday,[10]andasplacesofrestforguestsduringthenight.Hewasofatall,commandingfigure,withthedeepestandmostpowerfulvoiceIeverheard.Wearrivedearlierthanhehad

expected,ourforcedmarchfromDerebounhavingsavedussomehours,andheapologisedfornothavingriddenouttomeetus.Hisreceptionwasmosthospitable;thelambwasslainandthefeastprepared.ButasuddenattackbytheBedouinonaneighbouringvillageobligedhimreluctantlytoleaveus,andbeabsentduringourstay.Beingurgedtodepart,throughapprehensionoftheBedouin,wepushedforward,whensuddenlyalargebodyofhorsemenappearedonarisinggroundtotheeastofus.WecouldscarcelyexpectArabsfromthatquarter;however,allourpartymadereadyforanattack.CawalYusufandmyself,beingthebestmounted,rodetowardsthemtoreconnoitre.Thenoneortwohorsemenadvancedwarilyfromtheoppositeparty.Wenearedeachother.Yusufspiedthewell-knownblackturban,dashedforwardwithashoutofjoy,andinamomentweweresurrounded,andintheembraceoffriends.HusseinBeyandSheikhNasr,

withtheCawalsandYezidielders,hadriddennearlyfortymilesthroughthenighttomeetandescortme,ifneedful,toMosul!Theirdelightatseeingusknewnobounds;norwasIlesstouchedbyadisplayofgratitudeandgoodfeeling,equallyunexpectedandsincere.

TheyrodewithusasfarasTelEskoff,wherethedangerfromtheArabsceased;andIwasnowoncemorewitholdfriends.Intheafternoon,aswerodetowardsTelKef,IleftthehighroadwithHormuzdtodrinkwateratsomeArabtents.Asweapproachedweweregreetedwithexclamationsofjoy,andweresooninthemidstofacrowdofmenandwomen,kissingourknees,andexhibitingothertokensofwelcome.TheywereJebours,whohadbeenemployedintheexcavations.Hearingthatwewereagaingoingtodigafteroldstones,theyatoncesetaboutstrikingtheirtentstojoinus

atMosulorNimroud.

AswenearedTelKefwefoundgroupsofmyoldsuperintendentsandworkmenbytheroadside.TherewerefatToma,Mansour,Behnan,andHannah,joyfulatmeetingmeoncemore,andattheprospectoffreshservice.InthevillagewefoundMr.Rassam(thevice-consul)andKhodjaToma,hisdragoman,whohadmadereadythefeastforusatthehouseoftheChaldæanbishop.Nextmorning,aswerodethethreelasthoursofourjourney,wemetfreshgroupsoffamiliarfaces.Thenasweascendaneminencemidway,walls,towers,minarets,anddomesriseboldlyfromthemarginofthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


broadriver,cheatingusintothebelief,toosoontobedispelled,thatMosulisstillanotunworthyrepresentativeofthegreatNineveh.Aswedrawnear,thelonglineofloftymounds,theonlyremainsofmightybulwarksandspaciousgates,detachthemselvesfromthelowundulatinghills;nowthevastmoundofKouyunjikovertopsthesurroundingheaps:thenaboveitpeersthewhiteconeofthetomboftheprophetJonah;manyotherwell-rememberedspotsfollowinrapidsuccession;butwecannotlinger.Hasteningoverthecreakingbridgeofboats,weforceourwaythroughthecrowdedbazars,andalightatthehouseIhadlefttwoyearsago.Oldservantstaketheirplacesasamatterofcourse,and,uninvited,pursuetheirregularoccupationsasiftheyhadneverbeeninterrupted.Indeeditseemedasifwehadbutreturnedfromasummer'sride:twoyearshadpassedawaylikeadream.

ImayinthisplaceaddafewwordsonpartoftheroutepursuedbyXenophonandtheTenThousandduringtheirmemorableretreat,theidentificationofwhichhadbeenoneofmyprincipalobjectsduringourjourney.Ihave,inthecourseofmynarrative,alreadypointedoutoneortwospotssignalledbyremarkableeventsontheirmarch.

Imustfirststatemyconvictionthattheparasang,likeitsrepresentative,themodernfarsangorfarsakhofPersia,wasnotameasureofdistanceveryaccuratelydetermined,butratherindicatedacertainamountoftimeemployedintraversingagivenspace.ThatXenophon

reckonedbythecommonmodeofcomputationofthecountryisevident,byhisemploying,almostalways,thePersian"parasang,"insteadoftheGreekstadium;andthattheparasangwasthesameasthemodernhour,wefindbythedistancebetweenLarissa(Nimroud)andMespila(Kouyunjik)beinggivenassixparasangs,correspondingexactlywiththenumberofhoursassignedbythepresentinhabitantsofthecountry,andbytheauthoritiesoftheTurkishpost,tothesameroad.ThesixhoursinthisinstanceareequaltoabouteighteenEnglishmiles.

Theford,bywhichtheGreekscrossedtheGreatZab(Zabates)may,Ithink,beaccuratelydetermined.Itisstilltheprincipalfordinthispartoftheriver,andmust,fromthenatureofthebedofthestream,havebeensofromtheearliestperiods.Itisabouttwenty-fivemilesfrom

theconfluenceoftheZabandTigris.[11]TheGreekscouldnothavecrossedtheZababovethespotIhaveindicated,asthebedoftheriverisdeep,andconfinedwithinhighrockybanks.Theymighthavedoneso _below_thejunctionoftheGhazir,andaravinewornbywinterrainsmaycorrespondwiththevalleymentionedbyXenophon,butIthinktheGhazirfarmorelikelytohavebeenthetorrentbedviewedwithsomuchalarmbytheGreekcommander,andthepassageofwhichMithridatesmighthavedisputedwithsomeprospectofsuccess.[12]

ThatLarissaandMespilaarerepresentedbytheruinsofNimroudandKouyunjiknoonecanreasonablydoubt.Xenophon'sdescriptioncorrespondsmostaccuratelywiththeruinsandwiththedistancebetweenthem.

FromMespilatheGreeksmarchedfourparasangs,andprobablyhaltednearthemodernvillageofBatnai,betweenTelKefandTelEskof,anancientsiteexactlyfourhours,bytheusualcaravanroad,fromKouyunjik.InsteadoffordingtheKhabournearitsjunctionwiththeTigris,andthusavoidingthehills,theycrossedthembyaprecipitouspasstothesiteofthemodernZakko.Theyreachedthisrangeinfourdays,traversingitonthefifth,probablybythemoderncaravanroad.Theywereprobablymuchretardedduringthelastday,byhavingtofighttheirwayoverthreedistinctmountainridges.ItisremarkablethatXenophondoesnotmentiontheKhahour,althoughhemusthavecrossedthatrivereitherbyafordor

7/31/2019 Ninevah


byabridge[13]beforereachingtheplain.Yetthestreamisbroadandrapid,andthefordsatalltimesdeep.NordoeshealludetotheHazel,aconfluentoftheKhabour,towhichhecameduringhisfirstday'smarch,afterleavingZakko.Theseomissionsprovethathedoesnotgiveanaccurateitineraryofhisroute.

Fourdays'march,thefirstofonlysixtystadia,oraboutsevenmiles,[14]broughttheGreekstothehighmountainsofKurdistan,which,meetingtheTigris,shutoutallfurtheradvance,exceptbydifficultandprecipitouspasses,alreadyoccupiedbythePersians.Xenophon,havingdislodgedtheenemyfromthefirstridge,returnedtothemainbodyofthearmy,whichhadremainedintheplain.ThismusthavebeennearFynyk,wheretheveryfootoftheKurdishmountainsisfirstwashedbytheriver.ThespotagreesaccuratelywithXenophon'sdescription,asitdoeswiththedistance."TheGreeks,"sayshe,"cametoaplacewheretheriverTigrisis,bothfromitsdepthandbreadth,absolutelyimpassable;noroadappeared,thecraggymountainsoftheCarduchianshangingovertheriver."XenophonpreferredtherouteacrossthemountainsofKurdistan,asitledintoArmenia,acountryfromwhichtheymightchoosetheirownroadtothesea,andwhichaboundedinvillagesandthenecessariesoflife.

BeyondtheCarduchianmountainstherewere,accordingtotheprisoners,tworoadsintoArmenia,onecrossingtheheadwatersoftheprincipalbranchoftheTigris,theothergoingroundthem;thatis,leavingthemto

theleft.Thesearetheroadstothisdayfollowedbycaravans,onecrossingtheplainsofKherzantoDiarbekir,andthence,bywell-knownmountain-passestoKharput,theotherpassingthroughBitlis.Xenophonchosethelatter.ThevillagesinthevalleysandrecessesofthemountainsarestillfoundaroundFunduk;and,ontheirfirstday'smarchovertheCarduchianhills,theGreeksprobablyreachedtheneighbourhoodofthisvillage.TherenowremainedabouttenparasangstotheplainthroughwhichflowstheeasternbranchoftheTigris;butthecountrywasdifficult,andatthistimeoftheyear(nearlymidwinter)[15],thelowerroadalongtheriverwasimpassable.TheGreekshad,therefore,toforcetheirwayoveraseriesofdifficultpasses,allstoutlydefendedbywarliketribes.TheywereconsequentlyfourdaysinreachingtheCentritis,oreasternTigris,theunitedwatersoftheriversofBitlis,

Sert,andBohtan.Itwasimpossibletocrosstheriveratthisspotinthefaceoftheenemy.Atlength,afordwasdiscoveredhigherup,andXenophon,byskilfulstrategy,effectedthepassage.ThismusthavebeenatashortdistancefromTilleh,astheriver,narrowedbetweenrockybanks,isnolongerfordablehigherup.

OwingtothefrequentincursionsoftheCarduchi,thevillagesalongthebanksoftheBitlishadbeenabandoned,andtheGreekswerecompelledtoturntothewestward,tofindprovisionsandhabitations.Still_therewasnoroad_intoArmenia,particularlyatthistimeofyear,foranarmyencumberedwithbaggage,exceptthatthroughtheBitlisvalley.Theremainsofanancientcausewayareevennowtobetraced,andthisprobablyhasalwaysbeenthegreatthoroughfarebetweenwesternArmenia

andtheAssyrianplains.XenophonconsequentlymadenearlythesamedetourasIhadmadeonmywayfromConstantinople.

Sixmarches,offiveparasangseach,broughtthemtothesmallriverTeleboas,whichIbelievetohavebeentheriverofBitlis.AftercrossingthelowcountryofKherzan,welldescribedbyXenophonas"aplainvariedbyhillsofaneasyascent,"theGreeksmustnecessarilyhaveturnedslightlytotheeastwardtoreachtheBitlisvalley,asinaccessiblemountainsstoppedallfurtherprogress.Mycaravanwasthirty-threehoursinjourneyingfromBitlistoTilleh,correspondingexactlywiththesix

7/31/2019 Ninevah


days'marchoftheGreeks.Theyprobablycametotheriversomewhatbelowthesiteofthemoderntown,whereitwelldeservestheepithetof"beautiful."Itmayhavethenhad,asatthisday,manyvillagesnearitsbanks.ItwillbeobservedthatXenophonsaysthat_theycameto_,notthatthey_crossed_,theTeleboas.

FromthisrivertheyreachedtheEuphratesinsixmarches,making,asusual,fiveparasangseachday;inall,thirtyparasangs,orhours.Ibelieve,therefore,that,afterissuingfromthevalleyofBitlis,Xenophonturnedtothewestward,leavingthelakeofWanalittletotheright,thoughcompletelyconcealedfromhimbyarangeoflowhills.[16]SkirtingthewesternfootoftheNimroudDaghrange,hepassedthroughaplainthicklyinhabited,aboundinginwell-provisionedvillages,andcrossedhereandtherebyrangesofhills.ThiscountrystilltalliespreciselywithXenophon'sdescription.

Wehavenot,Iconceive,sufficientdatainXenophon'snarrativetoidentifywithanydegreeofcertaintyhisrouteaftercrossingtheEuphrates.WeknowthatabouttwentyparasangsfromthatrivertheGreeksencampednearahotspring,andthisspringmightberecognisedinoneofthemanywhichaboundinthecountry.ItismostprobablethattheGreekstooktheroadstillusedbycaravansthroughtheplainsofHinnisandHassan-Kalah,asofferingthefewestdifficulties.ButwhatriversarewetoidentifywiththePhasisandHarpasus,thedistancebetweenthe

EuphratesandPhasisbeingseventyparasangs,andbetweenthePhasisandHarpasusninety-five,andtheHarpasusbeingthelargerofthetworivers?Iamonthewholeinclinedtobelieve,thateithertheGreekstookaverytortuouscourseafterleavingtheEuphrates,makingdailybutlittleactualprogresstowardsthegreatendoftheirarduousjourney,thesea-coast,orthatthereisaconsiderableerrorintheamountofparasangsgivenbyXenophon;thattheHarpasusmustbetheTcherouk,andthePhasiseithertheAraxesortheKur[17];andthatMountTheches,theholymountainfromwhichtheGreeksbeheldthesea,wasbetweenBatounandTrebizond,thearmyhavingfollowedthevalleyoftheTcherouk,butleavingitbeforereachingthesiteofthemodernportontheBlackSea.

[Illustration:SubterraneanExcavationsatKouyunjik.]

CHAPTERIV.

STATEOFTHEEXCAVATIONSONMYRETURNTOMOSUL.--DISCOVERIESATKOUYUNJIK.--TUNNELSINTHEMOUND.--BAS-RELIEFSREPRESENTINGASSYRIANCONQUESTS.--AWELL.--SIEGEOFACITY.--NATUREOFSCULPTURESATKOUYUNJIK.--ARRANGEMENTSFORRENEWALOFEXCAVATIONS.--DESCRIPTIONOFMOUND.--KIAMILPASHA.--VISITTOSHEIKADI.--YEZIDICEREMONIES.--SHEIKHJINDI.--YEZIDIMEETING.--DRESSOFTHEWOMEN.--BAVIAN.--DOCTRINESOF

THEYEZIDI--JERRAIYAH.--RETURNTOMOSUL.

OnthemorningafterourarrivalinMosul,IrodeatsunrisetoKouyunjik.Thereadermayrememberthat,onmyreturntoEuropein1847,Mr.Rosshadcontinuedtheresearchesinthatmound,andhaduncoveredseveralinterestingbas-reliefs,whichIhavealreadydescribedfromhisownaccountofhisdiscoveries.[18]Thatgentlemanhad,tomygreatregret,leftMosul.SincehisdeparturetheexcavationshadbeenplacedunderthechargeofMr.Rassam,theEnglishvice-consul,whowasdirectedbythe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


TrusteesoftheBritishMuseumtoemployasmallnumberofmen,rathertoretainpossessionofthespot,andtopreventinterferenceonthepartofothers,thantocarryonextensiveoperations.TomaShishman,or"theFat,"wasstilltheoverseeroftheworkmen,andaccompaniedmeonmyfirstvisittotheruins.

ButlittlechangehadtakenplaceinthegreatmoundsinceIhadlastseenit.Itwasyellowandbare,asitalwaysisatthistimeoftheyear.Heapsofearthmarkedthesiteofformerexcavations,thechambersfirstdiscoveredhavingbeenagaincompletelyburiedwithrubbish.Ofthesculpturedwallslaidbaretwoyearsbeforenotracesnowremained.ThetrenchesdugunderMr.Ross'sdirections,inthesoutherncorner,oppositethetownofMosul,werestillopen.Itwasevidentataglancethatthechambershehadentereddidnot,ashehadbeenledtosuppose,belongtoasecondpalace.Theyformedpartofthesamegreatedificeoncestandingonthisangleofthemound,andalreadypartlyexplored.Thestyleofthebas-reliefs,andoftheinscriptions,markedthematonceasofthesameepochasthosepreviouslydiscovered.

Thewallsoftwochambershadbeenlaidbare.Inone,thelowerpartofalongseriesofsculptureswasstillpartlypreserved,buttheupperhadbeencompletelydestroyed,theveryalabasteritselfhavingdisappeared.Thebas-reliefsrecordedthesubjectionbytheAssyriankingofanationinhabitingthebanksofariver.Thecaptivewomenaredistinguishedby

longembroideredrobesfringedwithtassels,andthecastleshaveapeculiarwedge-shapedornamentonthewalls.Thetownsprobablystoodinthemidstofmarshes,astheyappeartobesurroundedbycanesorreeds,aswellasbygrovesofpalmtrees.TheAssyrianshavingcapturedthestrongplacesbyescalade,carriedtheinhabitantsintocaptivity,anddroveawaycattle,camels,andcartsdrawnbyoxen.Someofthemenbearlargebasketsofosierwork,andthewomenvasesorcauldrons.Theking,standinginhischariot,attendedbyhiswarriors,andprecededbyaneunuchregisteringthenumberofprisonersandtheamountofthespoil,receivestheconqueredchiefs.Notavestigeofinscriptionremainstorecordthenameofthevanquishedpeople;butwemayconjecture,fromtheriverandthepalmtrees,thattheyinhabitedsomedistrictinsouthernMesopotamia.Inthesouthernwallofthischamberwasadoorwayformedby

plain,uprightslabsofaclose-grainedmagnesianlimestone,almostashardasflint;betweenthemweretwosmall,crouchinglions,intheusualalabaster.Thisentranceledintoafurtherroom,ofwhichonlyasmallparthadbeenexplored.Thewallswerepanelledwithunsculpturedslabsofthesamecompactlimestone.

ThesculpturedremainshithertodiscoveredinthemoundofKouyunjikhadbeenreachedbydiggingdowntothemfromthesurface,andthenremovingtherubbish.AfterthedepartureofMr.Ross,theaccumulationofearthabovetheruins,hadbecomesoconsiderable,frequentlyexceedingthirtyfeet,thattheworkmen,toavoidthelaborofclearingitaway,begantotunnelalongthewalls,sinkingshaftsatintervalstoadmitlightandair.Theselonggalleries,dimlylighted,linedwiththeremainsof

ancientart,brokenurnsprojectingfromthecrumblingsides,andthewildArabandhardyNestorianwanderingthroughtheirintricacies,orworkingintheirdarkrecesses,weresingularlypicturesque.

TomaShishmanhadremovedtheworkmenfromthesoutherncornerofthemound,wherethesculpturesweremuchinjured,andhadopenedtunnelsinapartofthebuildingpreviouslyexplored,commencingwhereIhadleftoffonmydeparturefromMosul.Idescendedintothevaultedpassagesbyaninclinedway,throughwhichtheworkmenissuedfrombeneathtothrowawaytherubbishdugoutfromtheruins.AtthebottomIfoundmyselfbeforea

7/31/2019 Ninevah


wallformingthesouthernsideofthegreatHall,discovered,thoughonlypartlyexplored,duringmyformerresearches.Thesculptures,faintlyseenthroughthegloom,werestillwellenoughpreservedtogiveacompletehistoryofthesubjectrepresented,although,withtherestofthebas-reliefsofKouyunjik,thefirehadnearlyturnedthemtolime,andhadcrackedthemintoathousandpieces.Thefacesoftheslabshadbeenentirelycoveredwithfigures,varyingfromthreeinchestoonefootinheight,carefullyfinished,anddesignedwithgreatspirit.

Inthisseriesofbas-reliefsthehistoryofanAssyrianconquestwasmorefullyportrayedthaninanyotheryetdiscovered,fromthegoingoutofthemonarchtobattle,tohistriumphalreturnafteracompletevictory.Thefirstpartofthesubjecthasalreadybeendescribedinmyformerwork.[19]Theking,accompaniedbyhischariotsandhorsemen,andleavinghiscapitalintheAssyrianplains,passedthroughamountainousandwoodeddistrict.[20]Hedoesnotappeartohavebeendelayedbythesiegeofmanytownsorcastles,buttohavecarriedthewaratonceintothehighcountry.Histroops,cavalryandinfantry,arerepresentedinclosecombatwiththeirenemies,pursuingthemoverhillsandthroughvalleys,besidestreams,andinthemidstofvineyards.TheAssyrianhorsemenarearmedwiththespearandthebow,usingbothweaponswhilstatfullspeed:theiropponentsseemtobeallarchers.Thevanquishedturntoaskforquarter;or,wounded,fallunderthefeetoftheadvancinghorses,raisingtheirhandsimploringlytowardofftheimpendingdeathblow.Thetriumph

follows.Thekingstandinginhischariot,beneaththeroyalparasol,followedbylonglinesofdismountedwarriorsleadingrichlycaparisonedhorses,andbyfootsoldiersvariouslyarmedandaccoutred,isreceivingthecaptivesandspoiltakenfromtheconqueredpeople.Firstapproachthevictoriouswarriors,throwingtheheadsoftheslainintoheapsbeforetheregisteringofficers.Theyarefollowedbyothersleading,andurgingonwardswithstaves,theprisoners--menchainedtogether,orboundsinglyinfetters,andwomen,someonfoot,carryingtheirchildrenontheirshoulders,andleadingthembythehand,othersridingonmules.Theprocessionisfinishedbyasses,mules,andflocksofsheep.Asonthebas-reliefsuncoveredbyMr.Ross,thereisunfortunatelynoinscriptionbywhichthenameoftheconqueredpeoplecanbedetermined.Themountains,valleys,andstreams,thevinesanddwarfoaks,probably

indicatearegionnorthofAssyria,inArmenia,Media,orKurdistan,countriesweknowtohavebeeninvadedbytheroyalbuilderofthepalace.Thedressofthemenconsistsofashorttunic;thatofthewomen,ofashirtfallingtotheankles,andcutlowinfrontoftheneck.

Inthesideofthehallsculpturedwiththesebas-reliefswasawideportal,formedbyapairofgigantichuman-headedbulls.Theyhadsuffered,likeallthosepreviouslydiscovered,fromthefire,andtheupperpart,thewingsandhumanhead,hadbeencompletelydestroyed.Thelowerhalfhad,however,escaped,andtheinscriptionswereconsequentlynearlyentire.Joinedtotheforepartofthebullswerefoursmallfigures,twooneachside,andoneabovetheother.Theyhadlonghair,fallinginlargeandmassivecurlsontheirshoulders,woreshorttunics

descendingtotheknee,andheldapoletoppedbyakindofconeinonehand,raisingtheotherasinactofadoration.Atrightangleswiththeslabsbearingthesesculptureswerecolossalfigurescarryingtheoft-repeatedconeandbasket.

Inthisentranceawell,cutthroughthelargepavementslabbetweenthebulls,wasafterwardsdiscovered.Itcontainedbrokenpottery,notonevasehavingbeentakenoutwhole,apparentlyhumanremains,and_somefragmentsofcalcinedsculpturedalabaster_,evidentlydetachedfromthebas-reliefsonthewalls.Itisdoubtfulwhetherthiswellwassunkafter

7/31/2019 Ninevah


theAssyrianruinshadbeenburied,orwhetherithadbeenfromtheearliesttimesaplaceofdepositforthedead.

Asmalldoorwaytotherightoftheportalformedbythewingedbulls,ledintoafurtherchamber,inwhichanentrancehadbeenfoundintoathirdroom,whosewallshadbeencompletelyuncovered.Itsdimensionswere26feetby23,andithadbutthisoneoutlet,flankedoneithersidebytwocolossalfigures,whoselowerextremitiesaloneremained,theupperpartoftheslabshavingbeendestroyed:oneappearedtohavebeeneagle-headed,withthebodyofaman,andtheotheramonster,withhumanheadandthefeetofalion.Thebas-reliefsroundthechamberrepresentedthesiegeofacastlestandingonanartificialmound,surroundedatitsbasebyhouses.Thebesiegeddefendedthemselvesonthewallsandturretswithbows,spears,andstones.TheAssyrianarmywascomposedofspearmen,slingers,andbowmen,someofwhomhadalreadygainedthehousetops.Maleandfemalecaptiveshadbeentakenandheadscutoff;thevictoriouswarriorsaccordingtocustom,andprobablytoclaimareward,[21]bringingthemtotheregistrars.Inthebackgroundwerewoodedmountains;vinesandothertreesformedadistinctbandinthemiddleoftheslabs;andariverranatthefootofthemound.Thedressofthemaleprisonersconsistedeitherofalongrobefallingtotheankles,orofatunicreachingtotheknees,overwhichwasthrownanoutergarment,apparentlymadeoftheskinsofanimals,andtheyworegreaveslacedupinfront.Thewomenwereclothedinarobedescendingtothefeet,withanouterfringed

garmentthrownovertheshoulders;akindofhoodorveilcoveredthebackofthehead,andfellovertheneck.Abovethecastlewasthefragmentofaninscriptionintwolines,containingthenameofthecity,ofwhichunfortunatelythefirstcharacteriswanting.Itreads:"_Thecityof_...alammoIattackedandcaptured;Icarriedawayitsspoil."Noname,however,correspondingwithithasyetbeenfoundintheroyalannals,andwecanonlyinfer,fromthenatureofthecountryrepresented,thattheplacewasinamountainousdistricttothenorthofAssyria.

Thisdoorwaytoathirdoutletopeningtothewest,ledintoanarrowpassage,onesideofwhichhadalonebeenexcavated;onitwasrepresentedthesiegeofawalledcity,dividedintotwopartsbyariver.OnehalfoftheplacehadbeencapturedbytheAssyrians,whohadgainedpossession

ofthetowersandbattlements,butthatontheoppositebankofthestreamwasstilldefendedbyslingersandbowmen.Againstitswallshadbeenthrownbanksormounds,builtofstones,bricks,andbranchesoftrees.[22]Thebattering-rams,coveredwithskinsorhidesloopedtogether,hadbeenrolleduptheseinclinedways,andhadalreadymadeabreachinthefortifications.Archersandspearmenwerehurryingtotheassault,whilstothersweredrivingoffthecaptives,andcarryingawaytheidolsoftheenemy.Thedressofthemaleprisonersconsistedofaplainunder-shirt,anuppergarmentfallingbelowtheknees,dividedinthefrontandbuttonedattheneck,andlacedgreaves.TheirhairandbeardswereshorterandlesselaboratelycurledthanthoseoftheAssyrians.Thewomenweredistinguishedbyhighroundedturbans,ornamentedwithplaitsorfolds.Aveilfellfromthebackofthis

head-dressovertheshoulders.[23]Noinscriptionremainedtorecordthenameofthevanquishednation.

Suchwerethediscoveriesthathadbeenmadeduringmyabsence.Therecouldbenodoubtwhateverthatallthechambershithertoexcavatedbelongedtoonegreatedifice,builtbyoneandthesameking.Ihavealreadyshownhowthebas-reliefsofKouyunjikdifferedfromthoseoftheolderpalacesofNimroud,butcloselyresembledthoseofKhorsabadinthegeneraltreatment,inthecostumesoftheAssyrianwarriors,aswellasofthenationswithwhomtheywarred,andinthecharacteroftheornaments,

7/31/2019 Ninevah


inscriptions,anddetails.Thosenewlyuncoveredwere,inalltheserespects,likethebas-reliefsfoundbeforemydeparture,anduponwhichIhadventuredtoformanopinionastotherespectiveantiquityandoriginofthevariousruinshithertoexploredinAssyria.

AtKouyunjiktherewereprobablyfewbas-reliefs,particularlythosecontainingrepresentationsofcastlesandcities,thatwerenotaccompaniedbyashortepigraphorlabel,givingthenameoftheconqueredkingandcountry,andeventhenamesoftheprincipalprisoners,especiallyifroyalpersonages.Unfortunatelytheseinscriptionshavingbeenusuallyplacedontheupperpartoftheslabs,whichhasveryrarelyescapeddestruction,butfewofthemremain.TheseremarksshouldbeborneinmindtoenablethereadertounderstandthedescriptionsoftheexcavatedchambersatKouyunjik,whichwillbegiveninthefollowingpagesintheorderthattheywerediscovered.

IlostnotimeinmakingarrangementsforcontinuingtheexcavationswithasmuchactivityasthefundsgrantedtotheTrusteesoftheBritishMuseumwouldpermit.TomaShishmanwasplacedoverKouyunjik;Mansour,Behnan(themarblecutter),andHannah(thecarpenter),againenteredmyservice.AliRahal,asheikhoftheJebours,wasappointed"sheikhofthemound,"anddulyinvestedwiththecustomaryrobeofhonorontheoccasion.

Theaccumulationofsoilabovetheruinswassogreat,thatIdeterminedtocontinuethetunnelling,removingonlyasmuchearthaswasnecessarytoshowthesculpturedwalls.Buttofacilitatethelaboroftheworkmen,andtoavoidthenecessityoftheirleavingthetunnelstoemptytheirbaskets,Imadeanumberofrudetrianglesandwoodenpulleys,bywhichtheexcavatedrubbishcouldberaisedbyropesthroughtheshafts,sunkatintervalsforthispurpose,aswellastoadmitlightandair.Oneortwopassagesthensufficedfortheworkmentodescendintothesubterraneangalleries.

ManyoftheNestoriansformerlyinmyserviceasdiggers,havingalsoheardofmyintendedreturn,hadlefttheirmountains,andhadjoinedmeadayortwoaftermyarrival.TherewereJeboursenoughintheimmediate

neighbourhoodofthetowntomakeupfourorfivegangsofexcavators,andIplacedpartiesatonceinthegalleriesalreadyopened,indifferentpartsofKouyunjiknotpreviouslyexplored,andatahighmoundinthenorth-westwalls,formingonesideofthegreatinclosureoppositeMosul--aruinwhichIhadonlypartiallyexaminedduringmypreviousvisit.[24]

Theshapeofthisgreatruinisveryirregular;nearlysquareattheS.W.corner,itnarrowsalmosttoapointattheN.E.Thepalaceoccupiesthesouthernangle.Attheopposite,ornorthern,extremityaretheremainsofthevillageofKouyunjik,fromwhichthemoundtakesitsname.[25]Fromthisspotasteeproadleadstotheplain,formingtheonlyaccesstothesummitofthemoundforloadedanimalsorcarts.Thereareravinesonall

sidesofKouyunjik,exceptthatfacingtheTigris.Ifnotentirelywornbythewinterrains,theyhave,undoubtedly,beendeepenedandincreasedbythem.Theyarestrewedwithfragmentsofpottery,bricks,andsometimesstoneandburntalabaster,whilstthefallingearthfrequentlydisclosesintheirsidesvastmassesofsolidbrickmasonry,whichfallinwhenunderminedbytherains.Throughtheseravinesarecarriedthesteepandnarrowpathwaysleadingtothetopofthemound.

TheKhauserwindsroundtheeasternbaseofKouyunjik,andleavingitneartheangleoccupiedbytheruinsofthepalace,runsinadirectlineto

7/31/2019 Ninevah


theTigris.Althoughasmallandsluggishstream,ithaswornforitselfadeepbed,andisonlyfordablenearthemoundimmediatelybelowthesoutherncorner,wherethedirectroadfromMosulcrossesit,andatthenorthernextremitywhereaflourmillisturnedbyitswaters.Afterrainitbecomesanimpetuoustorrent,overflowingitsbanks,andcarryingallbeforeit.Itthenrisesverysuddenly,andassuddenlysubsides.TheTigrisnowflowsabouthalfamilefromthemound,butonceundoubtedlywasheditsbase.Betweenthemisarichalluviumdepositedbytheriverduringitsgradualretreat;itisalwaysundercultivation,andisdividedintocornfields,andmelonandcucumberbeds.[26]InthisplainstandsthesmallmodernvillageofKouyunjik,removedforconveniencefromitsancientsiteonthesummitofthemound.

InMosulIhadtocalluponthegovernor,andrenewmyacquaintancewiththeprincipalinhabitants,whosegoodwillwasinsomewaynecessarytothepleasant,ifnotsuccessful,prosecutionofmylabors.KiamilPashahadbeenlatelynamedtothepashalic.HewasthesixthorseventhpashawhohadbeenappointedsinceIleft,foritisoneofthebanesofTurkishadministrationthat,assoonasanofficerbecomesacquaintedwiththecountryheissenttogovern,andobtainsanyinfluenceoveritsinhabitants,heisrecalledtomakeroomforanewruler.KiamilhadbeenambassadoratBerlin,andhadvisitedseveralEuropeancourts.Hismannerswereeminentlycourteousandpolished;hisintelligence,andwhatisoffarmoreimportanceinaTurkishgovernor,hisintegrity,were

acknowledged.Hisprincipaldefectsweregreatinactivityandindolence,andanunfortunateirritabilityoftemper,leadinghimtodofoolishandmischievousthings,ofwhichhegenerallysoonfoundcausetorepent.

Soonaftermyarrival,myoldfriendsSheikhAbd-ur-rahman,oftheAbouSalman,andAbd-rubbou,chiefoftheJebours,rodeintothetowntoseeme;whereIhadscarcelysettledmyself,whenCawalYusufcameinfromBaadri,withapartyofYezidiCawals,toinviteme,onthepartofHusseinBeyandSheikhNasr,totheannualfestivalatSheikhAdi.Theinvitationwastooearnesttoberefused.

Iwasaccompaniedinthisvisitbymyownparty,withtheadditionofMr.Rassam,thevice-consul,andhisdragoman.Werodethefirstdayto

Baadri,andweremetontheroadbyHusseinBeyandalargecompanyofYezidihorsemen.SheikhNasrhadalreadygonetothetomb,tomakereadyfortheceremonies.Theyoungchiefentertainedusforthenight,andonthefollowingmorning,anhouraftersunrise,weleftthevillageforSheikhAdi.AtsomedistancefromthesacredvalleyweweremetbySheikhNasr,PirSino,theCawals,thepriests,andthechiefs.TheyconductedustothesamebuildinginthesacredgrovethatIhadoccupiedonmyformervisit.TheCawalsassembledaroundusandwelcomedourcomingontheirtambourinesandflutes;andsoonaboutuswasformedoneofthosesingularlybeautifulandpicturesquegroupswhichIhaveattemptedtodescribeinmypreviousaccountoftheYezidifestival.[27]

TheYezidishadassembledinlessnumbersthisyearthanwhenIhadlast

mettheminthevalley.OnlyafewofthebestarmedofthepeopleofSinjarhadventuredtofacethedangersoftheroadnowoccupiedbytheBedouins.AbdeAghaandhisadherentswerefullyoccupiedindefendingtheirvillagesagainsttheArabmarauders,who,althoughrepulsedafterwequittedSemil,werestillhangingaboutthedistrict,bentuponrevenge.TheKochers,andthetribesofDereboun,werekeptawaybythesamefears.TheinhabitantsofKherzanandRedwanwereharassedbytheconscription.EventhepeopleofBaasheikhahandBaazanihadbeensomuchvexedbyarecentvisitfromthePashathattheyhadnoheartforfestivities.Hisexcellencynotfosteringfeelingsofthemostfriendlynaturetowards

7/31/2019 Ninevah


NamikPasha,thenewcommander-in-chiefofArabia,whowaspassingthroughMosulonhiswaytothehead-quartersofthearmyatBaghdad,andunwillingtoentertainhim,wassuddenlytakenillandretiredforthebenefitofhishealthtoBaasheikhah.Onthemorningafterhisarrivalhecomplainedthattheassesbytheirbrayingduringthenighthadallowedhimnorest;andtheasseswereaccordinglyperemptorilybanishedfromthevillage.Thedawnofthenextdaywasannounced,tothegreatdiscomfortofhisExcellency,whohadnointerestinthematter,bythecocks;andtheirregulartroopswhoformedhisbody-guardwereimmediatelyincitedtoageneralslaughteroftherace.Thethirdnighthissleepwasdisturbedbythecryingofthechildren,who,withtheirmothers,wereatoncelockedup,fortherestofhissojourn,inthecellars.Onthefourthhewasawokeatdaybreakbythechirpingofsparrows,andeveryguninthevillagewasorderedtobebroughtouttowageawarofexterminationagainstthem.Butonthefifthmorninghisrestwassorelybrokenbytheflies,andtheenragedPashainsistedupontheirinstantdestruction.TheKiayah,who,aschiefofthevillage,hadthetaskofcarryingouttheGovernor'sorders,nowthrewhimselfathisExcellency'sfeet,exclaiming,"YourHighnesshasseenthatalltheanimalshere,praisebetoGod,obeyourLordtheSultan;theinfidelfliesalonearerebellioustohisauthority.Iamamanoflowdegreeandsmallpower,andcandonothingagainstthem;itnowbehovesagreatVizirlikeyourHighnesstoenforcethecommandsofourLordandMaster."ThePasha,whorelishedajoke,forgavetheflies,butleftthevillage.

IhavealreadysofullydescribedthegeneralnatureoftheannualfestivalatSheikhAdi,andtheappearanceofthevalleyonthatoccasion,thatIshallconfinemyselftoanaccountofsuchceremoniesasIwasnowpermittedtowitnessforthefirsttime.

Aboutanhouraftersunset,CawalYusufsummonedHormuzdandmyself,whowerealoneallowedtobepresent,totheinneryard,orsanctuary,oftheTemple.Wewereplacedinaroomfromthewindowsofwhichwecouldseeallthattookplaceinthecourt.TheCawals,Sheikhs,Fakirs,andprincipalchiefswerealreadyassembled.Inthecentreofthecourtwasanironlamp,withfourburners--asimpledishwithfourlipsforthewicks,supportedonasharpironroddrivenintotheground.Nearitstooda

Fakir,holdinginonehandalightedtorch,andintheotheralargevesselofoil,fromwhichhe,fromtimetotime,replenishedthelamp,loudlyinvokingSheikhAdi.TheCawalsstoodagainstthewallononesideofthecourt,andcommencedaslowchant,someplayingontheflute,othersonthetambourine,andaccompanyingthemeasurewiththeirvoices.TheSheikhsandchiefsnowformedaprocession,walkingtwobytwo.AttheirheadwasSheikhJindi.Heworeatallshaggyblackcap,thehairofwhichhungfarovertheupperpartofhisface.Alongrobe,stripedwithhorizontalstripesofblackanddarkred,felltohisfeet.Acountenancemoresevere,andyetmoreimposing,thanthatofSheikhJindicouldnotwellbepicturedbythemostfancifulimagination.Abeard,blackasjet,wavedlowonhisbreast;hisdarkpiercingeyesglitteredthroughraggedeyebrows,likeburningcoalsthroughthebarsofagrate.Thecolorofhis

facewasofthedeepestbrown,histeethwhiteassnow,andhisfeatures,thoughsternbeyondmeasure,singularlynobleandwellformed.ItwasabywordwithusthatSheikhJindihadneverbeenseentosmile.Tolookathimwastofeelthatalaughcouldnotbeborninhim.Ashemoved,withaslowandsolemnstep,theflickeringlampdeepeningtheshadowsofhissolemnandruggedcountenance,itwouldhavebeenimpossibletoconceiveabeingmoreeminentlyfittedtotaketheleadinceremoniesconsecratedtotheevilone.Heisthe_Peesh-namaz_,"theleaderofprayer,"totheYezidisect.Behindhimweretwovenerablesheikhs.TheywerefollowedbyHusseinBeyandSheikhNasr,andtheotherchiefsandSheikhscameafter.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Theirlongrobeswereallofthepurestwhite.Astheywalkedslowlyround,sometimesstopping,thenresumingtheirmeasuredstep,theychantedprayersingloryandhonoroftheDeity.TheCawalsaccompaniedthechantwiththeirflutes,beatingatintervalsthetambourines.Roundtheburninglamp,andwithinthecircleformedbytheprocession,dancedtheFakirsintheirblackdresses,withsolemnpacetimedtothemusic,raisingandswingingtoandfrotheirarmsafterthefashionofEasterndancers,andplacingthemselvesinattitudesnotlessdecorousthanelegant.TohymnsinpraiseoftheDeitysucceededothersinhonorofMelekIsaandSheikhAdi.Thechantspassedintoquickerstrains,thetambourineswerebeatenmorefrequently,theFakirsbecamemoreactiveintheirmotions,andthewomenmadetheloud_tahlel_,theceremoniesendingwiththatextraordinarysceneofnoiseandexcitementthatIhaveattemptedtodescribeinrelatingmyfirstvisit.Whentheprayerswereended,thosewhomarchedinprocessionkissed,astheypassedby,therightsideofthedoorwayleadingintothetemple,whereaserpentisfiguredonthewall;butnot,asIwasassured,theimageitself,whichhasnotypicalorothermeaning,accordingtoSheikhNasrandCawalYusuf.HusseinBeythenplacinghimselfonthestepatthisentrance,receivedthehomageoftheSheikhsandelders,eachtouchingthehandoftheyoungchiefwithhisown,andraisingittohislips.Allpresent,afterwards,gaveoneanotherthekissofpeace.

Theceremonieshavingthusbeenbroughttoaclose,HusseinBeyandSheikh

Nasrcametome,andledmeintotheinnercourt.Carpetshadbeenspreadatthedoorwayofthetempleformyselfandthetwochiefs;theSheikhs,Cawals,andprincipalpeopleofthesect,seatedthemselves,orrathercrouched,againstthewalls.Bythelightofalamp,dimlybreakingthegloomwithinthetemple,IcouldseeSheikhJindiunrobing.Duringtheprayers,priestswerestationedatthedoorway,andnonewereallowedtoenterexceptafewwomenandgirls:thewivesanddaughtersofsheikhsandcawalshadfreeaccesstothebuilding,andappearedtojoinintheceremonies.TheVice-ConsulandKhodjaTomawerenowadmitted,andtooktheirplaceswithusattheupperendofthecourt.CawalYusufwasthencalledupontogiveafullaccountoftheresultofhismissiontoConstantinople,whichhedidwiththesamedetail,andalmostinthesamewords,thathehadusedsofrequentlyduringourjourney.Afterhehad

concluded,Iendeavoredtourgeuponthemtoavailthemselvesofthenewprivilegesandopportunitiesforadvancementandcultivationthusaffordedthem.Itwasfinallyagreedthatlettersofthanks,sealedbyallthechiefsoftheYezidis,shouldbesenttotheGrandVizir,ReshidPasha,forthereceptiongiventotheYezidideputation,andtoSirStratfordCanningforhisgenerousintercessionintheirbehalf.

SoonaftersunriseonthefollowingmorningtheSheikhsandCawalsofferedupashortprayerinthecourtofthetemple,butwithoutanyoftheceremoniesofthepreviousevening.Someprayedinthesanctuary,frequentlykissingthethresholdandholyplaceswithinthebuilding.Whentheyhadended,theytookthegreenclothcoveringfromthetombofSheikhAdi,and,followedbytheCawalsplayingontheirtambourinesandflutes,

walkedwithitroundtheoutercourt.Thepeopleflockedaboutthem,andreverentlycarriedthecornerofthedraperytotheirlips,makingafterwardsasmallofferingofmoney.Afterthecoverhadagainbeenthrownoverthetomb,thechiefsandpriestsseatedthemselvesroundtheinnercourt.TheFakirsandSheikhsespeciallydevotedtotheserviceofthesanctuary,whoarecalledKotcheks,nowissuedfromthekitchensofthetemplebearinglargeplattersofsmoking_harisa_[28],whichtheyplacedontheground.Thecompanycollectedinhungrygroupsroundthemesses,andwhilsttheywereeating,the_Kotcheks_standingbycalleduponthemcontinuallyinaloudvoicetopartakeofthehospitalityof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


SheikhAdi.Aftertheemptyplateshadbeenremoved,acollectionwasmadetowardsthesupportofthetempleandtombofthesaint.

Theseceremoniesoccupiedusuntilnearlymid-day;wethensatbythefountaininthevalley,andthemenandwomendancedbeforeus,theboysclimbingintothetreesandhangingontheboughstoseethedancers.Sugar,dates,andraisinswereafterwardsscrambledamongstthechildren.Themensoontookpartintheamusement.ApartyofKurds,bringinggrapesfromthemountainstosellatthefestival,weremaliciouslypointedoutasgoodobjectsforajoke.Thehintwasnosoonergiventhanthey,theirdonkeys,andtheirgrapes,wereallrolledintooneheapunderamountainofhumanbeings.TheKurds,whowerearmed,resistedmanfully;and,ignorantofourintentions,mighthaverevengedthemselvesontheirassailants,butweresoonrestoredtogoodhumourwhentheyfoundthattheyweretoreceiveamplecompensationfortheirlossesandpersonalinjuries.Therewasgenerallaughinginthevalley,andtheYezidiswilllongrememberthesedaysofsimplemerrimentandhappiness.

IntheafternoonthewivesanddaughtersofthechiefsandCawalscalleduponme.ThefamiliesoftheCawals,evidentlydescendedfromthesamestock,areremarkableforthebeautybothofthemenandwomen,allofwhomarestrikinglylikeoneanother.Theircomplexionis,perhaps,toodark,buttheirfeaturesareregularandadmirablyformed.Thedressesofthegirlswereelegant,andasrichasthematerialtheycouldobtain

wouldallow.Somewoveflowersintotheirhair,othersencircledtheirblackturbanswithasinglewreathofmyrtle,asimpleandelegantornament.Theyallworemanystringsofcoins,amber,coral,agate,andglassbeadsroundtheirnecks,andsomehadtheblackskullcapcompletelycoveredwithgoldandsilvermoney.Akindofapronofgreyoryellowishcheck,likeaScotchplaid,tiedoveroneshoulder,andfallinginfrontoverthesilkdress,isapeculiarfeatureinthecostumeoftheYezidigirls,andofsomeChristiansfromthesamedistrict.Unmarriedwomenhavetheneckbare,themarriedconcealitwithawhitekerchief,whichpassesunderthechin,andistiedonthetopofthehead.Thebrightestcolorsarewornbythegirls,butthematronsareusuallyclothedinplainwhite.ThefemalesoftheCawalfamiliesalwayswearblackturbansandskullcaps.CawalYusuf,toshowhowtheFrankladieshehadseenat

Constantinoplewerehonoredbytheirhusbands,madehisyoungwifewalkarminarmwithhimbeforeus,tothegreatamusementofthebystanders.

Atnightthesamereligiousceremonieswererepeatedinthetemple,andIwasallowedtosleepintheroomoverlookingtheinnercourtfromwhenceIhadwitnessedthemonthepreviousevening.Afterallhadretiredtorest,theYezidiMullahrecited,inalowchantingtone,areligioushistory,ordiscourse,consistingoftheadventuresandteachingsofacertainMirzaMohammed.Hestoodbeforetheburninglamp,andaroundhimwereatfulllengthonthestonepavement,andcoveredbytheirwhitecloaks,thesleepingSheikhsandCawals.Thescenewassingularlypicturesqueandimpressive.

NextmorningIvisited,withMr.RassamandMr.Cooper,therock-sculpturesofBavian,whicharenotmorethansixmilesfromthevalleyofSheikhAdiinthesamerangeofhills;butIwilldeferadescriptionoftheseremarkablemonumentsuntilIcometorelatemysecondjourneytothespot.

CawalYusufhadpromised,ontheoccasionofthefestival,toshowmethesacredbookoftheYezidis.Heaccordinglybroughtavolumetomeonemorning,accompaniedbythesecretaryofSheikhNasr,theonlyYezidi,asfarasIamaware,whocouldreadit.Itconsistedofafewtattered

7/31/2019 Ninevah


leaves,ofnoancientdate,containingapoeticalrhapsodyonthemeritsandattributesofSheikhAdi,whoisidentifiedwiththeDeityhimself,astheoriginandcreatorofallthings,thoughevidentlydistinguishedfromtheEternalEssencebybeingrepresentedasseekingthetruth,andasreachingthroughitthehighestplace,whichhedeclarestobeattainablebyallthosewholikehimshallfindthetruth.[29]

ThiswastheonlywrittenworkthatIwasabletoobtainfromtheYezidis;theircawalsrepeatedseveralprayersandhymnstome,whichwerepurelylaudatoryoftheDeity,andunobjectionableinsubstance.NumerousoccupationsduringtheremainderofmyresidenceinAssyriapreventedmeprosecutingmyinquiriesmuchfurtheronthissubject.CawalYusufinformedmethatbeforethegreatmassacreofthesectbytheBeyofRahwanduz,theypossessedmanybookswhichwerelostduringthegeneralpanic,ordestroyedbytheKurds.Headmittedthatthiswasonlyafragmentarycomposition,andbynomeans"theBook"whichcontainedthetheologyandreligiouslawsoftheYezidi.Heevenhintedthatthegreatworkdidstillexist,andIambynomeanscertainthatthereisnotacopyatBaasheikhahorBaazani.TheaccountgivenbytheCawalseemstobeconfirmedbytheallusionmadeinthepoemtothe"BookofGladTidings,"and"theBookthatcomforteththeoppressed,"whichcouldscarcelyhavebeeninsertedforanyparticularpurpose,suchastodeceivetheirMohammedanneighbours.

IwillhereaddafewnotesconcerningtheYezidisandtheirfaithtothosecontainedinmyformerwork;theywerechieflyobtainedfromCawalYusuf.

TheybelievethatChristwillcometogoverntheworld,butthatafterhimSheikhMediwillappear,towhomwillbegivenspecialjurisdictionoverthosespeakingtheKurdishlanguage,includingtheYezidis(thisisevidentlyamoderninterpolation,derivedfromMussulmansources,perhapsinventedtoconciliatetheMohammedans).

Allwhogotoheavenmustfirstpassanexpiatoryperiodinhell,butnoonewillbepunishedeternally.Mohammedanstheyexcludefromallfuturelife,butnotChristians.(Thismayhavebeensaidtoavoidgiving

offence.)

TheYezidiswillnotreceiveconvertstotheirfaith;circumcisionisoptional.WhenachildisbornnearenoughtothetombofSheikhAdi,tobetakentherewithoutgreatinconvenienceordanger,itshouldbebaptizedasearlyaspossibleafterbirth.TheCawalsintheirperiodicalvisitationscarryabottleorskinfilledwiththeholywater,tobaptizethosechildrenwhocannotbebroughttotheshrine.

Therearefortydaysfastinthespringoftheyear,buttheyareobservedbyfew;onepersoninafamilymayfastfortherest.[30]TheyshouldabstainduringthatperiodascompletelyastheChaldæansfromanimalfood.SheikhNasrfastsrigidlyforonemonthintheyear,eatingonly

onceintwenty-fourhoursandimmediatelyaftersunset.

Onlyonewifeisstrictlylawful,althoughthechieftakesmore;butconcubinesarenotforbidden.Thewifemaybeturnedawayforgreatmisconduct,andthehusband,withtheconsentoftheSheikhs,maymarryagain;butthediscardedwifenevercan.Evensuchdivorcesoughtonlytobegivenincasesofadultery;forformerly,whentheYezidisadministeredtheirowntemporallaws,thewifewaspunishedwithdeath,andthehusbandofcoursewasthenreleased.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Thereligious,aswellasthepolitical,headofallYezidis,wherevertheymayreside,isHusseinBey,whoiscalledtheKalifa,andheholdsthispositionbyinheritance.Asheisyoungandinexperienced,hedeputeshisreligiousdutiestoSheikhNasr.SheikhNasrisonlythechiefoftheSheikhsofthedistrictofSheikhan.TheCawalsareallofonefamily,andareundertheordersofHusseinBey,whosendsthemperiodicallytocollectthevoluntarycontributionsofthevarioustribes.Theamountreceivedbythemisdividedintotwoequalparts,oneofwhichgoestothesupportofthetombofSheikhAdi,andhalfoftheothertoHusseinBey,theremainderbeingequallysharedbytheCawals.NeitherthepriestsnorHusseinBeyevershavetheirbeards.Theyoughtnottomarryoutoftheirownorder,andthoughthemendonotobservethisruleverystrictly,thewomenarenevergiveninmarriagetooneoutoftherankofthepriesthood.HusseinBeyoughttotakehiswifefromthefamilyofChulBeg.

Afterdeath,thebodyofaYezidi,likethatofaMohammedan,iswashedinrunningwater,andthenburiedwiththefaceturnedtowardsthenorthstar.

IhavestatedthatitisunlawfulamongsttheYezidistoknowhowtoreadorwrite.This,Iamassured,isnotthecase,andtheirignorancearisesfromwantofmeansandproperteachers.FormerlyaChaldæandeaconusedtoinstructthechildren.CawalYusufmentionedaccidentally,that,amongst

theYezidis,theancientnameforGodwasAzed,andfromithederivedthenameofhissect.TheirKublah,hedeclared,wasthepolarstarandnottheeast.

OnmywaytoMosulfromSheikhAdi,IvisitedtheruinsofJerraiyah,whereexcavationshadbeenagaincarriedonbyoneofmyagents.Noancientbuildingswerediscovered.Theprincipalmoundisloftyandconicalinshape,andthebaseissurroundedbysmallermounds,andirregularitiesinthesoilwhichdenotetheremainsofhouses.IhadnotleisureduringmyresidenceinAssyriatoexaminethespotasfullyasitmaydeserve.

[Illustration:MoundofNimroud.]

CHAPTERV.

RENEWALOFEXCAVATIONSATKOUYUNJIK.--FIRSTVISITTONIMROUD.--STATEOFRUINS.--RENEWEXCAVATIONSINMOUND.--VISITOFCOLONELRAWLINSON.--MR.H.RASSAM.--THEJEBOURWORKMENATKOUYUNJIK.--DISCOVERIESATKOUYUNJIK.--SCULPTURESREPRESENTINGMOVINGOFGREATSTONESANDWINGEDBULLS.--METHODSADOPTED.--EPIGRAPHSONBAS-RELIEFSOFMOVINGBULLS.--SCULPTURESREPRESENTINGINVASIONOF

MOUNTAINOUSCOUNTRY,ANDSACKOFCITY.--DISCOVERYOFGATEWAY.--EXCAVATIONINHIGHCONICALMOUNDATNIMROUD.--DISCOVERYOFWALLOFSTONE.--VISITTOKHORSABAD.--DISCOVERYOFSLAB.--STATEOFTHERUINS.--FUTHLIYAH.--BAAZANI.--BAASHEIKHAH.

WewereagaininMosulbythe12thofOctober.TheJebours,myoldworkmen,hadnowbroughttheirfamiliestothetown.Idirectedthemtocrosstheriver,andtopitchtheirtentsovertheexcavationsatKouyunjik,astheyhadformerlydonearoundthetrenchesatNimroud.The

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Bedouins,uncheckedintheirforaysbytheTurkishauthorities,hadbecomesobold,thattheyventuredtotheverywallsofMosul,andIfeltitnecessarytohaveastrongpartyontheruinsforself-defence.TheJebourswere,however,ongoodtermswiththeBedouins,andhadlatelyencampedamongstthem.

Aboutonehundredworkmen,dividedintotwelveorfourteenparties,wereemployedatKouyunjik.TheArabs,asbefore,removedtheearthandrubbish,whilstthemoredifficultlaborwiththepickwasleftentirelytotheNestorianmountaineers.Myoldfriend,Yakoub,theRaisofAsheetha,wasnamedsuperintendentoftheTiyariworkmen,forwhomIbuiltmudhutsnearthefootofthemound.

TheworkhavingbeenthusbegunatKouyunjik,IrodewithHormuzdtoNimroudforthefirsttimeonthe18thofOctober.Itseemedbutyesterdaythatwehadfollowedthesametrack.Westoppedateachvillage,andfoundineacholdacquaintancesreadytowelcomeus.Fromthecrestofthehillhalfway,thefirstviewofNimroudopeneduponus;theoldmound,onwhichIhadgazedsooftenfromthisspot,andwithwhichsomanyhappyrecollectionswereboundup,risingboldlyabovetheJaif,theriverwindingthroughtheplain,thedistantwreathsofsmokemarkingthevillagesofNaifaandNimroud.Idismountedatmyoldhouse,whichwasstillstanding,thoughsomewhatinruins,forithadbeenthehabitationoftheKiayahduringmyabsence,andtoavoidtheverminswarminginthe

rooms,mytentwaspitchedinthecourt-yard,andIdweltentirelyinit.Thevillagehadstill,comparativelyspeaking,aflourishingappearance,andhadnotdiminishedinsizesincemylastvisit.The_tanzimat_,orreformedsystemoflocaladministration,hadbeenintroducedintothepashalicofMosul,andalthoughmanyofitsregulationswereevaded,andarbitraryactswerestilloccasionallycommitted,yetonthewholeamarkedimprovementhadtakenplaceinthedealingsoftheauthoritieswiththesubjectsoftheSultan.Thegreatcauseofcomplaintwasthewantofsecurity.ThetroopsunderthecommandofthePashawerenotsufficientinnumbertokeeptheBedouinsincheck,andtherewasscarcelyavillageinthelowcountrywhichhadnotsufferedmoreorlessfromtheirdepredations.Nimroudwasparticularlyexposedtotheirincursions,and

theinhabitantslivedincontinualagitationandalarm.

BysunriseIwasamongsttheruins.Themoundhadundergonenochange.Thereitrosefromtheplain,thesamesun-burntyellowheapthatithadstoodfortwentycenturies.Theearthandrubbish,whichhadbeenheapedovertheexcavatedchambersandsculpturedslabs,hadsettled,andhadleftuncoveredinsinkingtheupperpartofseveralbas-reliefs.Afewcolossalheadsofwingedfiguresrosecalmlyabovethelevelofthesoil,andwithtwopairsofwingedbulls,whichhadnotbeenreburiedonaccountoftheirmutilatedcondition,wasallthatremainedabovegroundofthenorth-westpalace,thatgreatstorehouseofAssyrianhistoryandart.

CollectingtogethermyoldexcavatorsfromtheShemuttiandJehesh(the

ArabtribeswhoinhabitNimroudandNaifa),andfromthetentsofafewJebourswhostilllingeredroundthevillagetogleanascantysubsistenceaftertheharvest,Iplacedworkmenindifferentpartsofthemound.Thenorth-westpalacehadnotbeenfullyexplored.Mostofthechamberswhichdidnotcontainsculpturedslabs,butweresimplybuiltofsundriedbricks,hadbeenleftunopened.Iconsequentlydirectedapartyofworkmentoresumetheexcavationswheretheyhadbeenformerlyabandoned.Newtrencheswerealsoopenedintheruinsofthecentrepalace,where,asyet,nosculptureshadbeendiscoveredintheiroriginalpositionagainstthewalls.Thehighconicalmoundformingthenorth-westcornerof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Nimroud,thepyramidasithasusuallybeencalled,hadalwaysbeenanobjectofpeculiarinterest,whichwantofmeanshadhithertopreventedmefullyexamining.Withtheexceptionofashaft,aboutfortyfeetdeep,sunknearlyinthecentre,andpassingthroughasolidmassofsun-driedbricks,nootheropeninghadbeenmadeintothissingularruin.Inoworderedatunneltobecarriedintoitsbaseonthewesternface,andonalevelwiththeconglomeraterockuponwhichitrested.

AsIascendedthemoundnextmorningIperceivedagroupoftravellersonitssummit,theirhorsespickettedinthestubble.EreIcouldlearnwhatstrangershadthuswanderedtothisremoteregion,myhandwasseizedbythefaithfulBairakdar.Beneath,inanexcavatedchamber,wrappedinhistravellingcloak,wasRawlinsondeepinsleep,weariedbyalongandharassingnight'sride.ForthefirsttimewemetintheAssyrianruins,andbesidesthegreetingsofoldfriendshiptherewasmuchtobeseentogether,andmuchtobetalkedover.Thefatiguesofthejourneyhad,however,broughtonfever,andweweresooncompelled,aftervisitingtheprincipalexcavations,totakerefugefromtheheatofthesuninthemudhutsofthevillage.TheattackincreasingintheeveningitwasdeemedprudenttorideintoMosulatonce,andwemountedourhorsesinthemiddleofthenight.

DuringtwodaysCol.RawlinsonwastooilltovisittheexcavationsatKouyunjik.Onthethirdwerodetogethertothemound.Afterahasty

surveyoftheruinsweparted,andhecontinuedhisjourneytoConstantinopleandtoEngland,toreapthelaurelsofawell-earnedfame.

MyreaderswouldbeweariedwereItorelate,daybyday,theprogressoftheexcavations,andtorecord,astheyweregraduallymade,thediscoveriesinthevariousruins.Itwillgiveamorecompleteideaoftheresultsoftheresearchestodescribethesculpturedwallsofawholechamberwhenentirelyexplored,insteadofnoting,onebyone,asdugout,bas-reliefswhichformbutpartofthesamesubject.Iwill,therefore,merelymentionthatduringthemonthsofOctoberandNovember,mytimewasspentbetweenKouyunjikandNimroud,andthattheexcavationswerecarriedonatbothplaceswithoutinterruption.Mr.Cooperwasoccupiedindrawingthebas-reliefsdiscoveredatKouyunjik,livinginMosul,andridingover

dailytotheruins.ToMr.HormuzdRassam,whousuallyaccompaniedmeinmyjourneys,wereconfided,asbefore,thegeneralsuperintendenceoftheoperations,thepaymentoftheworkmen,thesettlementofdisputes,&c.Hisserviceswereinvaluable,andofthegreatestconsequencetothesuccessofmylabors.

TheArabworkmenweredividedintoseveralclasses,andtheirwagesvariedaccordingtotheirrespectiveoccupations,aswellasaccordingtothetimeofyear.TheyweregenerallypaidweeklybyHormuzd.Thediggers,whowereexposedtoveryseverelabor,andeventoconsiderablerisk,receivedfromtwopiastresandahalftothreepiastres(from5_d._to6_d._)a-day;thosewhofilledthebasketsfromtwopiastrestotwoandahalf;andthegeneralworkmenfromoneandahalftotwopiastres.Theearth,

whenremoved,wassiftedbyboys,whoearnedaboutonepiastrefortheirday'slabor.Thesewagesmayappearlow,buttheyareamplysufficientforthesupportofafamilyinacountrywherethecamel-loadofwheat(nearly480lbs.)issoldforaboutfourshillings,andwherenootherprotectionfromtheinclemenciesoftheweatherisneededthanalinenshirtandtheblackfoldsofanArabtent.[31]

TheKouyunjikworkmenwereusuallypaidinthesubterraneousgalleries,someconvenientspacewhereseveralpassagesmetbeingchosenforthepurpose;thoseofNimroudgenerallyinthevillage.Asceneofwild

7/31/2019 Ninevah


confusionensuedontheseoccasions,fromwhichaninexperiencedobservermightargueasadwantoforderandmethod.Thiswas,however,butthewayofdoingbusinessusualinthecountry.Whentherewasadifferenceofopinion,hewhocriedtheloudestgainedtheday,andafteradesperatestruggleofvoicesmattersrelapsedintotheirusualstate,everyonebeingperfectlysatisfied.ScreamingandgesticulationwithEasternsbynomeanssignifyillwill,orevenseriousdisagreement.Withoutthem,exceptofcourseamongsttheTurks,whoarestaidanddignifiedtoaproverb,themostordinarytransactionscannotbecarriedon,andtheyarefrequentlyrathersymptomsoffriendshipthanofhostility.

BytheendofNovemberseveralentirechambershadbeenexcavatedatKouyunjik,andmanybas-reliefsofgreatinteresthadbeendiscovered.Thefoursidesofthehall,partofwhichhasalreadybeendescribed,[32]hadnowbeenexplored.[33]Inthecentreofeachsidewasagrandentrance,guardedbycolossalhuman-headedbulls.[34]Thismagnificenthallwasnolessthan124feetinlengthby90feetinbreadth,thelongestsidesbeingthosetothenorthandsouth.Itappearstohaveformedacentre,aroundwhichtheprincipalchambersinthispartofthepalaceweregrouped.Itswallshadbeencompletelycoveredwiththemostelaborateandhighly-finishedsculptures.Unfortunatelyallthebas-reliefs,aswellasthegiganticmonstersattheentrances,hadsufferedmoreorlessfromthefirewhichhaddestroyedtheedifice;butenoughofthemstillremainedtoshowthesubject,andeventoenablemeinmanyplacestorestoreit

entirely.Thenarrowpassageleadingfromthegreathallatthesouth-westcornerhadbeencompletelyexplored.Itssculptureshavealreadybeendescribed.[35]Itopenedintoachamber24feetby19,fromwhichbranchedtwootherpassages.Theonetothewestwasenteredbyawidedoorway,inwhichstoodtwoplainsphericalstonesaboutthreefeethigh,havingtheappearanceofthebasesofcolumns,althoughnotracesofanysucharchitecturalornamentcouldbefound.Thiswastheentranceintoabroadandspaciousgallery,about218feetlongand25wide.Atunnelatitswesternend,cutthroughthesolidwall,astherewasnodoorwayonthissideofthegallery,ledintothechambersexcavatedbyMr.Ross,thusconnectingthemwiththerestofthebuilding.

Ihavealreadydescribedthebas-reliefsrepresentingtheconquestofamountainouscountryonthesouthernsideofthegreathall.[36]Thesamesubjectwascontinuedonthewesternwall,withoutmuchvarietyinthedetails.Butonthenorthern,thesculpturesdifferedfromanyothersyetdiscovered,andfromtheirinterestandnoveltymeritaparticularnotice.Butbeforegivingadescriptionofthem,Imustreturntothelonggallerytothewestofthegreathall,asthesculpturesstillpreservedinitformpartofandcompletethisimportantseries.

Theslabsononesideofthisgalleryhadbeenentirelydestroyed,exceptattheeasternend;andfromthefewwhichstillremained,everytraceofsculpturehadbeencarefullyremovedbysomesharpinstrument.Alongthe

oppositewall(thattotherightonleavingthegreathall)onlyeightbas-reliefsstillstoodintheiroriginalposition,andevenoftheseonlythelowerpartwaspreserved.Detachedfragmentsofotherswerefoundintherubbish,andfromthemIascertainedthatthewholegalleryhadbeenoccupiedbyonecontinuousseries,representingthedifferentprocessesadoptedbytheAssyriansinmovingandplacingvariousobjectsusedintheirbuildings,andespeciallythehuman-headedbulls,fromthefirsttransportofthehugestoneintheroughfromthequarry,totheraisingofthesegiganticsculpturesinthegatewaysofthepalace-temples.Onthesefragmentswereseenthekinginhischariot,superintendingthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


operations,andworkmencarryingcables,ordraggingcartsloadedwithcoilsofropes,andvariousimplementsformovingthecolossi.

Iwillcommence,then,byadescriptionofthesculpturesstillstandingintheiroriginalpositioninthegallery.Ahugeblockofstone(probablyofthealabasterusedintheAssyrianedifices),somewhatelongatedinformsoastoresembleanobeliskintherough,islyingonalowflat-bottomedboatfloatingonariver.IthasprobablybeentoweddowntheTigrisfromsomequarry,andistobelandednearthesiteoftheintendedpalace,tobecarvedbythesculptorintotheformofacolossalbull.Itexceedstheboatconsiderablyinlength,projectingbeyondboththeheadandstern,andisheldbyuprightbeamsfastenedtothesidesofthevessel,andkeptfirmintheirplacesbywoodenwedges.Twocablesarepassedthroughholescutinthestoneitself,andathirdistiedtoastrongpinprojectingfromtheheadoftheboat.Eachcableisheldbyalargebodyofmen,whopullbymeansofsmallropesfastenedtoitandpassedroundtheirshoulders.Someofthesetrackerswalkinthewater,othersondryland.Thenumberaltogetherrepresentedmusthavebeennearly300,about100toeachcable,andtheyappeartobedividedintodistinctbands,eachdistinguishedbyapeculiarcostume.Somewearakindofembroideredturban,throughwhichtheirlonghairisgatheredbehind;theheadsofothersareencircledbyafringedshawl,whoseendshangovertheearsandneck,leavingthehairtofallinlongcurlsupontheshoulders.Manyarerepresentednaked,butthegreaternumberaredressed

inshortchequeredtunics,withalongfringeattachedtothegirdle.Theyareurgedonbytaskmastersarmedwithswordsandstaves.Theboatisalsopushedbymenwadingthroughthestream.Anoverseer,whoregulatesthewholeproceedings,isseatedastrideonthefore-partofthestone.Hishandsarestretchedoutintheactofgivingcommands.

[Illustration:Head-dressofCaptivesemployedbyAssyriansinmovingBull(Kouyunjik).]

Thehugestonehavingbeenlanded,andcarvedbytheAssyriansculptorintotheformofacolossalhuman-headedbull,istobemovedfromthebankoftherivertothesiteitismeanttooccupypermanentlyinthepalace-temple.Thisprocessisrepresentedonthewallsofthegreat

hall.Fromthesebas-reliefs,aswellasfromdiscoveriestobehereaftermentioned,itisthereforeevidentthattheAssyrianssculpturedtheirgiganticfiguresbefore,andnotafter,theslabshadbeenraisedintheedifice,althoughallthedetailsandthefinishingtoucheswerenotputin,asitwillbeseen,untiltheyhadbeenfinallyplaced.[37]Iamstill,however,ofopinion,thatthesmallerbas-reliefswereentirelyexecutedaftertheslabshadbeenattachedtothewalls.

Inthefirstbas-reliefIshalldescribe,thecolossalbullrestshorizontallyonasledgesimilarinformtotheboatcontainingtheroughblockfromthequarry,buteitherinthecarvingthestonehasbeengreatlyreducedinsize,orthesledgeismuchlargerthantheboat,asitconsiderablyexceedsthesculptureinlength.Thebullfacesthe

spectator,andthehumanheadrestsonthefore-partofthesledge,whichiscurvedupwardsandstrengthenedbyathickbeam,apparentlyrunningcompletelythroughfromsidetoside.Theupperpart,ordeck,isotherwisenearlyhorizontal;theunder,orkeel,beingslightlycurvedthroughout.Props,probablyofwood,areplacedunderdifferentpartsofthesculpturetosecureanequalpressure.Thesledgewasdraggedbycables,andimpelledbylevers.Thecablesarefourinnumber;twofastenedtostrongprojectingpinsinfront,andtwotosimilarpinsbehind.Theyarepulledbysmallropespassingovertheshouldersofthemen,asinthebas-reliefsalreadydescribed.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Onthebullitselfarefourpersons,probablythesuperintendingofficers.Thefirstiskneeling,andappearstobeclappinghishands,probablybeatingtime,toregulatethemotionsoftheworkmen,whounlesstheyappliedtheirstrengthatoneandthesamemomentwouldbeunabletomovesolargeaweight.Behindhimstandsasecondofficerwithoutstretchedarm,evidentlygivingthewordofcommand.Thenextholdstohismouth,eitheraspeaking-trumpet,oraninstrumentofmusic.Iftheformer,itprovesthattheAssyrianswereacquaintedwithameansofconveyingsound,presumedtobeofmoderninvention.Informitundoubtedlyresemblesthemodernspeaking-trumpet,andinnobas-reliefhithertodiscovereddoesasimilarobjectoccurasaninstrumentofmusic.Thefourthofficer,alsostanding,carriesamace,andisprobablystationedbehindtogivedirectionstothosewhoworkthelevers.Thesledgebearingthesculptureisfollowedbymenwithcoilsofropesandvariousimplements,anddrawingcartsladenwithcablesandbeams.

Asubjectsimilartothatjustdescribedisrepresentedinanotherseriesofbas-reliefs,withevenfullerdetails.Thebullisplacedinthesamemanneronthesledge,whichisalsomovedbycablesandlevers.Itisaccompaniedbyworkmenwithsaws,hatchets,pick-axes,shovels,ropes,andprops,andbycartscarryingcablesandbeams.Uponitarethreeofficersdirectingtheoperations,oneholdingthetrumpetinhishands,andinfrontwalkfourotheroverseers.Abovethesledgeandtheworkmenarerows

oftrees,andariveronwhicharecircularboatsresemblinginshapethe"kufas,"nowusedonthelowerpartoftheTigris,andprobably,likethem,builtofreedsandoziertwigs,coveredwithsquarepiecesofhide.Theyareheavilyladenwithbeamsandimplementsrequiredformovingthebulls.

Onafallenslab,formingpartofthesamegeneralseries,isthekingstandinginarichlydecoratedchariot,thepoleofwhich,curvedupwardsattheend,andornamentedwiththeheadofahorse,israisedbyeunuchs.Fromthepeculiarformofthischariotandtheabsenceofayoke,itwouldseemtohavebeenintendedpurposelyforsuchoccasionsasthatrepresentedinthebas-relief,andtohavebeenakindofmoveablethronedrawnbymenandnotbyhorses.Behindthemonarch,whoholdsakindof

flower,orornamentintheshapeofthefruitofthepine,inonehand,standtwoeunuchs,oneraisingaparasoltoshadehimfromthesun,theothercoolinghimwithafan.Heappearstohavebeensuperintendingthetransportofoneofthecolossalsculptures,andhischariotisprecededandfollowedbyhisbody-guardarmedwithmaces.

Thenextseriesofbas-reliefsrepresentsthebuildingoftheartificialplatformsonwhichthepalaceswereerected,andtheAssyriansmovingtotheirsummitthecolossalbulls.Thekingisagainseeninhischariotdrawnbyeunuchs,whilstanattendantraisestheroyalparasolabovehishead.Heoverlookstheoperationsfromthatpartofthemoundtowhichthesledgeisbeingdragged,andbeforehimstandshisbody-guard,alonglineofalternatespearmenandarchers,restingtheirarmsandshieldsuponthe

ground.Atthebottomoftheslabisrepresentedariver,onthebanksofwhichareseenmenraisingwaterbyasimplemachine,stillgenerallyusedforirrigationintheEast,aswellasinSouthernEurope,andcalledinEgypta_shadoof_.Itconsistsofalongpole,balancedonashaftofmasonry,andturningonapivot;tooneendisattachedastone,andtotheotherabucket,which,afterbeingloweredintothewaterandfilled,iseasilyraisedbythehelpoftheoppositeweight.Itscontentsarethenemptiedintoaconduitcommunicatingwiththevariouswatercoursesrunningthroughthefields.IntheneighbourhoodofMosulthismodeofirrigationisnowrarelyused,thelargerskinsraisedbyoxenaffordingabetter

7/31/2019 Ninevah


supply,andgiving,itisconsidered,lesstroubletothecultivator.[38]

Itwouldappearthatthemenemployedinbuildingtheartificialmoundwerecaptivesandmalefactors,formanyofthemareinchains,somesingly,othersboundtogetherbyanironrodattachedtoringsintheirgirdles.Thefetters,likethoseofmoderncriminals,confinethelegs,andaresupportedbyabarfastenedtothewaist,orconsistofsimpleshacklesroundtheankles.Theywearashorttunic,andaconicalcap,somewhatresemblingthePhrygianbonnet,withthecurvedcrestturnedbackwards,acostumeverysimilartothatofthetributebearersontheNimroudobelisk.Eachbandofworkmenisfollowedandurgedonbytask-mastersarmedwithstaves.

Themound,orartificialplatform,havingbeenthusbuilt,notalways,asithasbeenseen,withregularlayersofsun-driedbricks,butfrequentlyinpartswithmereheaped-upearthandrubbish,thenextstepwastodragtoitssummitthecolossalfigurespreparedforthepalace.Assomeofthelargestofthesesculptureswerefulltwentyfeetsquare,andmusthaveweighedbetweenfortyandfiftytons,thiswasnoeasytaskwithsuchmeansastheAssyrianspossessed.Theonlyaidtomeremanualstrengthwasderivedfromtherollersandlevers.

Behindthemonarch,onanadjoiningslab,arecartsbearingthecables,wedges,andimplementsrequiredinmovingthesculpture.Alongbeamor

leverisslungbyropesfromtheshouldersofthreemen,andoneofthegreatwedgesiscarriedinthesameway.Intheuppercompartmentofthisslabisastreamissuingfromthefootofhillswoodedwithvines,fig-trees,andpomegranates.Beneathstandsatownorvillage,thehousesofwhichhavedomesandhighconicalroofs,probablybuiltofmud,asinpartsofnorthernSyria.Thedomeshavetheappearanceofdish-coverswithahandle,theupperpartbeingtoppedbyasmallcircularprojection,perhapsintendedasanaperturetoadmitlightandair.

[Illustration:VillagewiththeconicalRoofs,nearAleppo.]

Thisinterestingseriesiscompletedbyabas-relief,showing,itwouldseem,thefinalplacingofthecolossalbull.Thefigurenolongerlies

horizontallyonthesledge,butisraisedbymenwithropesandforkedwoodenprops.Itiskeptinitserectpositionbybeams,heldtogetherbycrossbarsandwedges,[39]andisfurthersupportedbyblocksofstone,orwood,piledupunderthebody.Cables,ropes,rollers,andleversarealsoemployedonthisoccasiontomovethegiganticsculpture.Thecaptivesaredistinguishedbythepeculiarturbansbeforedescribed.[40]

Wehavethusrepresented,withremarkablefidelityandspirit[41],theseveralprocessesemployedtoplacethesecolossiwheretheystillstand,fromthetransportdowntheriveroftheroughblocktothefinalremovalofthesculpturedfiguretothepalace.Fromthesebas-reliefswefindthattheAssyrianswerewellacquaintedwiththeleverandtheroller,andthattheyingeniouslymadeuseoftheformerbycarryingwiththemwedges,

ofdifferentdimensions,andprobablyofwood,tovarytheheightofthefulcrum.WhenmovingthewingedbullsandlionsnowintheBritishMuseumfromtheruinstothebanksoftheTigris,Iusedalmostthesamemeans.TheAssyrians,liketheEgyptians,hadmadeconsiderableprogressinropetwisting,anartnowonlyknowninitsrudeststateinthesamepartoftheEast.Thecablesappeartobeofgreatlengthandthickness,andropesofvariousdimensionsarerepresentedinthesculptures.

OncomparingrepresentationsofsimilarworksamongtheEgyptians,itwillbefoundthattheysucceededinremovingmassesofstonefarexceedingin

7/31/2019 Ninevah


weightanysculpturewhichhasyetbeendiscoveredinAssyria.Yetitisasingularfact,thatwhilstthequarriesofEgyptbearwitnessofthemselvestothestupendousnatureoftheworksoftheancientinhabitantsofthecountry,andstillshowontheirsidesengravedrecordsofthosewhomadethem,notraceswhatever,notwithstandingthemostcarefulresearch,haveyetbeenfoundtoindicatefromwhencethebuildersoftheAssyrianpalacesobtainedtheirlargeslabsofalabaster.ThattheywereintheimmediateneighbourhoodofNinevehthereisscarcelyanyreasontodoubt,asstrataofthismaterial,easilyaccessible,abound,notonlyinthehillsbutintheplains.Thisveryabundancemayhaverenderedanyparticularquarryunnecessary,andblockswereprobablytakenasrequiredfromconvenientspots,whichhavesincebeencoveredbythesoil.

Therecanbenodoubt,aswillhereafterbeshown,thatthekingrepresentedassuperintendingthebuildingofthemoundsandtheplacingofthecolossalbullsisSennacheribhimself,andthatthesculpturescelebratethebuildingatNinevehofthegreatpalaceanditsadjacenttemplesdescribedintheinscriptionsastheworkofthismonarch.Unfortunatelyonlyfragmentsoftheepigraphshavebeenpreserved.Fromthemitwouldappearthatthetransportofmorethanoneobjectwasrepresentedonthewalls.Besidesbullsandsphynxesinstonearementionedfiguresinsomekindofwood,perhapsofolive,like"thetwocherubimsofolivetree,eachtencubitshigh,"inthetempleof

Solomon.[42]OverthekingsuperintendingtheremovalofoneofthesecolossiisthefollowingshortinscriptionthustranslatedbyDr.Hincks:--

"Sennacherib,kingofAssyria,thegreatfiguresofbulls,whichinthelandofBelad,weremadeforhisroyalpalaceatNineveh,hetransported _thither_."(?)

ThelandofBelad,mentionedintheseinscriptions,appearstohavebeenadistrictintheimmediatevicinityofNineveh,andprobablyontheTigris,asthesegreatmassesofstonewouldhavebeenquarriedneartheriverforthegreaterconvenienceofmovingthemtothepalace.ThedistrictofBeladmayindeedhavebeenthatinwhichthecityitselfstood.

Overtherepresentationofthebuildingofthemoundthereweretwoepigraphs,bothpreciselysimilar,butbothunfortunatelymuchmutilated.Asfarastheycanberestored,theyhavethusbeeninterpretedbyDr.Hincks:--

"Sennacherib,kingofAssyria.Hewnstones,_which_,asthegods[43]willed,werefoundinthelandofBelad,forthe_walls_(?)(orfoundations,thewordreads'_shibri_')ofmypalace,_Icausedtheinhabitantsofforeigncountries_(?)andthepeopleoftheforests(Kershani),thegreatbullsforthegatesofmypalaceto_drag_(?)(orbring)."

Ifthisinscriptionberightlyrendered,wehavedirectevidencethatcaptivesfromforeigncountrieswereemployedinthegreatpublicworksundertakenbytheAssyriankings,aswewereledtoinfer,fromthevarietyofcostumerepresentedinthebas-reliefs,andfromthefettersonthelegsofsomeoftheworkmen.TheJewsthemselves,aftertheircaptivity,mayhavebeenthuscondemnedtolabor,astheirforefathershadbeeninEgypt,inerectingthemonumentsoftheirconquerors;andwemay,perhaps,recognisethemamongstthebuildersportrayedinthesculptures.

Fromthelonggallery,wehaveunfortunatelyonlythreefragmentsof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


inscriptionswithoutthesculpturedrepresentationsoftheeventsrecorded.Themostperfectisinterestingonmorethanoneaccount.AccordingtoDr.Hincksitistobetranslated:--

"Sennacherib,kingofAssyria...(someobject,thenaturenotascertained)ofwood,whichfromtheTigrisIcausedtobebroughtup(_through_?)theKharri,orKhasri,onsledges(orboats),Icausedtobecarried(ortomount)."

ThenameoftheriverinthisinscriptionverynearlyresemblesthatofthesmallstreamwhichsweepsroundthefootofthegreatmoundofKouyunjik.

Inthefragmentofanotherepigraph,wehavementionofsomeobjectsalsoofwood"broughtfromMountLebanon,andtakenup(tothetopofthemound)fromtheTigris."Thesemayhavebeenbeamsofcedar,which,itwillbehereafterseen,wereextensivelyusedintheAssyrianpalaces.ItishighlyinterestingthustofindtheinhabitantsofNinevehfetchingtheirrareandpreciouswoodsfromthesamespotsthatkingSolomonhadbroughtthechoicestwoodworkofthetempleoftheLordandofhisownpalaces.

OnathirdfragmentsimilarobjectsaredescribedascomingfromorupthesameKharriorKhasri.Ihavementionedthatthelonggallerycontaining

thebas-reliefrepresentingthemovingofthegreatstone,ledoutofachamber,whosewallshadbeencompletelyuncovered.Thesculpturesuponthemwerepartlypreserved,andrecordedtheconquestofacitystandingonabroadriver,inthemidstofmountainsandforests.

Thelastbas-reliefoftheseriesrepresentedthekingseatedwithinafortifiedcamp,onathroneofelaborateworkmanship,andhavingbeneathhisfeetafootstoolofequallyelegantform.Hewasreceivingthecaptives,whoworelongrobesfallingtotheirankles.Unfortunately,noinscriptionremainedbywhichwemightidentifytheconquerednation.

Itwillberememberedthatexcavationshadbeenresumedinaloftymoundinthenorth-westlineofwallsformingtheenclosureroundKouyunjik.It

wasapparentlytheremainsofagateleadingintothisquarterofthecity,andpartofabuilding,withfragmentsoftwocolossalwingedfigures,hadalreadybeendiscoveredinit.BytheendofNovember,thewholehadbeenexplored,andtheresultswereofconsiderableinterest.Asthemoundrisesnearlyfiftyfeetovertheplain,wewereobligedtotunnelalongthewallsofthebuildingwithinit,throughacompactmassofrubbish,consistingalmostentirelyofloosebricks.Followingtherowsoflowlimestoneslabs,fromthesouthsideofthemound,andpassingthroughtwohallsorchambers,wecameatlengthtotheoppositeentrance.Thisgateway,facingtheopencountry,wasformedbyapairofmajestichuman-headedbulls,fourteenfeetinlength,stillentire,thoughcrackedandinjuredbyfire.TheyweresimilarinformtothoseofKhorsabadandKouyunjik,wearingtheloftyhead-dress,richlyornamentedwithrosettes,

andedgedwithafringeoffeatherspeculiartothatperiod.Theirfaceswereinfull,andthereliefwashighandbold.Moreknowledgeofartwasshownintheoutlineofthelimbsandinthedelineationofthemuscles,thaninanysculptureIhaveseenofthisperiod.ThenakedlegandfootweredesignedwithaspiritandtruthfulnessworthyofaGreekartist.Itis,however,remarkablethatthefourfigureswereunfinished,noneofthedetailshavingbeenputin,andpartsbeingbutroughlyoutlined.

Thesculpturestotheleft,onenteringfromtheopencountry,wereinafarmoreunfinishedstatethanthoseontheoppositeside.Thehairand

7/31/2019 Ninevah


beardwerebutroughlymarkedout,squarebossesbeingleftforcarvingtheelaboratecurls.Thehornedcapofthehuman-headedbullwas,asyet,unornamented,andthewingsmerelyoutlined.Thelimbsandfeatureswerehardandangular,stillrequiringtoberoundedoff,andtohaveexpressiongiventothembythefinishingtouchoftheartist.Theothertwofiguresweremoreperfect.Noinscriptionhadyetbeencarvedoneithersculpture.

Theentranceformedbythesecolossalbullswasfourteenfeetandaquarterwide.Itwaspavedwithlargeslabsoflimestone,stillbearingthemarksofchariotwheels.Thesculptureswereburiedinamassofbrickandearth,mingledwithcharcoalandcharredwood;for"thegatesofthelandhadbeensetwideopenuntotheenemy,andthefirehaddevouredthebars."[44]Theywerelightedfromabovebyadeepshaftsunkfromthetopofthemound.Itwouldbedifficulttodescribetheeffectproduced,orthereflectionssuggestedbythesesolemnandmajesticfigures,dimlyvisibleamidstthegloom,when,afterwindingthroughthedark,undergroundpassages,yousuddenlycameintotheirpresence.BetweenthemSennacheribandhishostshadgoneforthinalltheirmightandglorytotheconquestofdistantlands,andhadreturnedrichwithspoilandcaptives,amongstwhommayhavebeenthehandmaidensandwealthofIsrael.Throughthem,too,theAssyrianmonarchhadenteredhiscapitalinshame,afterhislastandfataldefeat.Thentheloftywalls,nowbutlonglinesoflow,wave-likemounds,hadstretchedfartotherightandtothe

left--abasementofstonesupportingacurtainofsolidbrickmasonry,crownedwithbattlementsandstuddedwithfrowningtowers.

Behindthecolossalfigures,andbetweentheouterandinnerfaceofthegateway,weretwochambers,nearly70feetinlength,by23inbreadth.Ofthatpartoftheentrancewhichwaswithinthewalls,onlythefragmentsofwingedfigures,discoveredduringmypreviousresearches,nowremained.

Thewholeentrancethusconsistedoftwodistinctchambersandthreegateways,twoformedbyhuman-headedbulls,andathirdbetweenthemsimplypanelledwithlowlimestoneslabslikethechambers.Itsoriginalheight,includingthetower,musthavebeenfullonehundredfeet.MostofthebakedbricksfoundamongsttherubbishborethenameofSennacherib,

thebuilderofthepalaceofKouyunjik.Asimilargateway,butwithoutanyremainsofsculpturedfigures,andpanelledwithplainalabasterslabs,wassubsequentlydiscoveredintheinnerlineofwallsformingtheeasternsideofthequadrangle,wheretheroadtoBaashiekhahandBaazanileavestheruins.

AtNimrouddiscoveriesofveryconsiderableimportanceweremadeinthehighconicalmoundatthenorth-westcorner.Desirousoffullyexploringthatremarkableruin,Ihademployednearlyalltheworkmeninopeningatunnelintoitswesternbase.Afterpenetratingfornolessthaneighty-fourfeetthroughacompactmassofrubbish,composedofloosegravel,earth,burntbricks,andfragmentsofstone,theexcavatorscametoawallofsolidstonemasonry.Ihavealreadyobservedthattheedifice

coveredbythishighmoundwasoriginallybuiltuponthenaturalrock,abankofhardconglomeraterisingaboutfifteenfeetabovetheplain,andwashedindaysofyorebythewatersoftheTigris.Ourtunnelwascarriedforthirty-fourfeetonalevelwiththisrock,whichappearstohavebeencoveredbyakindofflooringofsun-driedbricks,probablyonceformingaplatforminfrontofthebuilding.Itwasburiedtothedistanceofthirtyfeetfromthewall,bybakedbricks,brokenandentire,andbyfragmentsofstone,remainsofthesuperstructureoncerestinguponthebasementofstillexistingstonemasonry.Thismassofrubbishwasaboutthirtyfeethigh,andinitwerefoundbonesapparentlyhuman,andayellowearthen

7/31/2019 Ninevah


jar,rudelycoloredwithsimpleblackdesigns.Therestofthispartofthemoundconsistedofearth,throughwhichrantwothinlinesofextraneousdeposit,one_ofpebbles_,theotheroffragmentsofbrickandpottery.Iamtotallyatalosstoaccountfortheirformation.

Iorderedtunnelstobecarriedalongthebasementwallinbothdirections,hopingtoreachsomedoorwayorentrance,butitwasfoundtoconsistofsolidmasonry,extendingnearlythewholelengthofthemound.Itsheightwasexactlytwentyfeet,which,singularlyenough,coincideswiththatassignedbyXenophontothestonebasementofthewallofthecity(Larissa).[45]Thestonesinthisstructurewerecarefullyfittedtogether,thoughnotunitedwithmortar,unlesstheearthwhichfilledthecreviceswastheremainsofmud,used,asitstillisinthecountry,asacement.Theywerebevelledwithaslantingbevel,andinthefaceofthewallwereeightrecessesorfalsewindows,fouroneachsideofasquareprojectingblockbetweengradines.

Thebasement,ofwhichthiswallprovedtobeonlyoneface,wasnotexcavatedonthenorthernandeasternsideuntilalaterperiod,butIwilldescribeallthediscoveriesconnectedwiththissingularbuildingatonce.Thenorthernsidewasofthesameheightas,andresembledinitsmasonry,thewestern.Ithadasemicircularhollowprojectioninthecentre,sixteenfeetindiameter,ontheeastsideofwhichweretworecesses,andonthewestfour,sothatthetwoendsofthewallwerenot

uniform.Thatpartofthebasementagainstwhichthegreatartificialmoundorplatformabutted,andwhichwasconsequentlyconcealedbyit,thatis,theeasternandsouthernsides,wasofsimplestonemasonrywithoutrecessesorornament.Theupperpartoftheedifice,restingonthestonesubstructure,consistedofcompactmasonryofburntbricks,whichweremostlyinscribedwiththenameofthefounderofthecentrepalace(theobeliskking),theinscriptionbeinginmanyinstancesturnedoutwards.

Itwasthusevidentthatthehighconicalmoundformingthenorth-westcorneroftheruinsofNimroud,wastheremainsofasquaretower,andnotofapyramid,ashadpreviouslybeenconjectured.Thelowerpart,builtofsolidstonemasonry,hadwithstoodthewreckofages,buttheupperwalls

ofburntbrick,andtheinnermassofsun-driedbrickwhichtheyencased,fallingoutwards,andhavingbeensubsequentlycoveredwithearthandvegetation,theruinhadtakenthepyramidalformthatloosematerialsfallinginthismannerwouldnaturallyassume.

ItisveryprobablethatthisruinrepresentsthetombofSardanapalus,which,accordingtotheGreekgeographers,stoodattheentranceofthecityofNineveh.Itwillhereafterbeseenthatitisnotimpossiblethebuilderofthenorth-westpalaceofNimroudwasakingofthatname,althoughitisdoubtfulwhetherhecanbeidentifiedwiththehistoricalSardanapalus.Subsequentdiscoveriesprovedthathemusthimselfhaveraisedthestonesubstructure,althoughhisson,whosenameisfounduponthebricks,completedthebuilding.Itwas,ofcourse,naturalto

conjecturethatsometracesofthechamberinwhichtheroyalremainsweredeposited,weretobefoundintheruin,andIdeterminedtoexamineitasfullyasIwasable.Havingfirstascertainedtheexactcentreofthewesternstonebasement,Ithereforcedapassagethroughit.Thiswasaworkofsomedifficulty,asthewallwas8ft.9in.thick,andstronglybuiltoflargeroughstones.Having,however,accomplishedthisstep,Icarriedatunnelcompletelythroughthemound,atitsverybase,andonalevelwiththenaturalrock,untilwereachedtheoppositebasementwall,atadistanceof150feet.Nothinghavingbeendiscoveredbythiscutting,Idirectedasecondtobemadeatrightanglestoit,crossingitexactly

7/31/2019 Ninevah


inthecentre,andreachingfromthenortherntothesouthernbasement;butwithoutanydiscovery.

Thenextcuttingwasmadeinthecentreofthemound,onalinewiththetopofthestonebasementwall,whichwasalsotheleveloftheplatformofthenorth-westpalace.Theworkmensooncametoanarrowgallery,about100feetlong,12feethigh,and6feetbroad,whichwasblockedupatthetwoendswithoutanyentrancebeingleftintoit.Itwasvaultedwithsun-driedbricks,afurtherproofoftheuseofthearchataveryearlyperiod,andthevaulthadinoneortwoplacesfallenin.Noremainswhateverwerefoundinit,neitherfragmentsofsculptureorinscription,noranysmallerrelic.Therewere,however,undoubtedtracesofitshavingoncebeenbrokenintoonthewesternside,bydiggingintothefaceofthemoundaftertheedificewasinruins,andconsequently,therefore,longafterthefalloftheAssyrianempire.Theremainswhichitmayhavecontained,probablytheembalmedbodyoftheking,withvesselsofpreciousmetalsandotherobjectsofvalueburiedwithit,hadbeencarriedoffbythosewhohadopenedthetombatsomeremoteperiod,insearchoftreasure.Theymusthavehadsomecluetotheprecisepositionofthechamber,orhowcouldtheyhavedugintothemoundexactlyattherightspot?Hadthisdepositaryofthedeadescapedearlierviolation,whocantellwithwhatvaluableandimportantrelicsofAssyrianartorAssyrianhistoryitmighthavefurnishedus?Iexplored,withfeelingsofgreatdisappointment,theemptychamber,andthenopenedothertunnels,

withoutfurtherresults,intheupperpartsofthemound.ItwasevidentthatthelonggalleryorchamberIhavedescribedwastheplaceofdepositforthebodyoftheking,ifthiswerereallyhistomb.Thetunnelsandcuttingsinotherpartsofthemoundonlyexposedacompactandsolidmassofsun-driedbrickmasonry.Imuchdoubt,formanyreasons,whetheranysepulchreexistsintherockbeneaththefoundationsofthetower,though,ofcourse,itisnotimpossiblethatsuchmaybethecase.[46]

Fromthepresentstateoftheruinitisdifficulttoconjecturetheexactoriginalformandheightofthisedifice.Therecanbenodoubtthatitwasavastsquaretower,anditisnotimprobablethatitmayhave

terminatedinaseriesofthreeormoregradines,liketheobeliskofblackmarblefromthecentrepalacenowintheBritishMuseum.Likethepalaces,too,itwasprobablypaintedontheoutsidewithvariousmythicfiguresanddevices,anditssummitmayhavebeencrownedbyanaltar,onwhichtheAssyriankingoffereduphisgreatsacrifices,oronwhichwasfedtheever-burningsacredfire.ButIwilldeferanyfurtherremarksuponthissubjectuntilItreatofthearchitectureoftheAssyrians.

Astheruinis140feethigh,thebuildingcouldscarcelyhavebeenmuchlessthan200,whilsttheimmensemassofrubbishsurroundingandcoveringthebaseshowsthatitmighthavebeenconsiderablymore.

Duringthetwomonthsinwhichthegreaterpartofthediscoveries

describedinthischapterweremade,Iwasoccupiedalmostentirelywiththeexcavations,mytimebeingspentbetweenNimroudandKouyunjik.

WishingtovisitBaasheikhah,Khorsabad,andotherruinsatthefootoftherangeoflowhillsoftheGebelMakloub,IleftNimroudonthe26thofNovemberwithHormuzdandtheBairakdar.Fourhours'ridebroughtustosomesmallartificialmoundsnearthevillageofLak,aboutthreemilestotheeastofthehighroadtoMosul.HerewefoundapartyofworkmenexcavatingunderoneoftheChristiansuperintendents.Nothinghadbeendiscoveredexceptfragmentsofpotteryandafewbricksbearingthename

7/31/2019 Ninevah


oftheKouyunjikking.Astheruins,fromtheirsize,didnotpromiseotherresults,IsentthemenbacktoMosul.WereachedKhorsabadafterridingfornearlyeighthoursoverarichplain,capableofveryhighcultivation,thoughwantinginwater,andstillwellstockedwithvillages,betweenwhichwestartledlargeflocksofgazellesandbustards.Ihadsentoneofmyoverseerstheresomedaysbeforetouncovertheplatformtothewestoftheprincipaledifice,apartofthebuildingIwasdesirousofexamining.Whilstclearingawaytherubbish,hehaddiscoveredtwobas-reliefssculpturedinblackstone.Theyrepresentedahuntingscene,andwereexecutedwithmuchtruthandspirit.Theybelongedtoasmallbuilding,believedtobeatemple,entirelyconstructedofblackmarble,andattachedtothepalace.Itstooduponaplatform165feetinlengthand100inwidth,raisedaboutsixfeetabovetheleveloftheflooringofthechambers,andascendedfromthemainbuildingbyaflightofbroadsteps.Thisplatform,orstylobate,isremarkableforacorniceingreylimestonecarriedroundthefoursides,--oneofthefewremainsofexteriordecorationinAssyrianarchitecture,withwhichweareacquainted.Itiscarefullybuiltofseparatestones,placed_sidebyside_,eachformingpartofthesectionofthecornice.Mr.Fergussonobserves,[47]withreferencetoit,"atfirstsightitseemsalmostpurelyEgyptian;buttherearepeculiaritiesinwhichitdiffersfromanyfoundinthatcountry,especiallyinthecurvebeingcontinuedbeyondtheverticaltangent,andtheconsequentprojectionofthetorusgivingasecondshadow.Whethertheeffectofthiswouldbepleasantornotina

corniceplacedsohighthatwemustlookuptoit,isnotquiteclear;butbelowtheleveloftheeye,orslightlyaboveit,theresultmusthavebeenmorepleasingthananyformfoundinEgypt,andwheresculptureisnotaddedmightbeusedwitheffectanywhere."

Manyfragmentsofbas-reliefsinthesameblackmarble,chieflypartsofwingedfigures,hadbeenuncovered;butthisbuildinghasbeenmorecompletelydestroyedthananyotherpartofthepalaceofKhorsabad,andthereisscarcelyenoughrubbisheventocoverthefewremainsofsculpturewhicharescatteredovertheplatform.

Thesculpturesinthepalaceitselfhadrapidlyfallentodecay,andofthosewhichhadbeenleftexposedtotheairafterM.Botta'sdeparture,

scarcelyanytracesremained.SincemyformervisittoKhorsabad,theFrenchconsulatMosulhadsoldtoCol.Rawlinsonthepairofcolossalhuman-headedbullsandwingedfigures,nowinthegreathalloftheBritishMuseum.Theyhadstoodinapropylæum,about900feettothesouth-eastofthepalace,withinthequadrangle,butnotupontheartificialmound.Informthissmallbuildingappearstohavebeennearlythesameasthegateway,inthewallsofKouyunjik,andlikeitwasbuiltofbrickandpanelledwithlowlimestoneslabs.Fromthenumberofenamelledbricksdiscoveredintheruinsitisprobablethatitwasrichlydecoratedincolor.

Trencheshadalsobeenopenedinoneofthehighermoundsinthelineofwalls,andinthegroupofruinsattheS.W.cornerofthequadrangle,

butnodiscoveriesofanyinteresthadbeenmade.Thecentreofthequadranglewasnowoccupiedbyafever-breedingmarshformedbythewatersoftheKhauser.

WepassedthenightatFuthliyah,avillagebuiltatthefootoftheGabelMakloub,aboutamileandahalffromKhorsabad.NearFuthliyah,andabouttwomilesfromthepalaceofKhorsabad,isaloftyconicalTelvisiblefromMosul,andfrommostpartsofthesurroundingcountry.ItisoneofthoseisolatedmoundssonumerousintheplainsofAssyria,whichdonotappeartoformpartofanygroupofruins,andthenatureofwhichIhave

7/31/2019 Ninevah


beenunabletodetermine.ItsvicinitytoKhorsabadledmetobelievethatitmighthavebeenconnectedwiththoseremains,andmighthavebeenraisedoveratomb.Bymydirectionsdeeptrencheswereopenedintoitssides,butonlyfragmentsofpotterywerediscovered.

FromFuthliyahwerodeacrosstheplaintothelargevillageofBaazani,chieflyinhabitedbyYezidis.TherewefoundHusseinBey,SheikhNasr,andalargepartyofCawalsassembledatthehouseofoneAbd-ur-rahmanChelibi,aMussulmangentlemanofMosul,whohadfarmedtherevenuesoftheplace.

NearBaazaniareagroupofartificialmoundsofnogreatsize.Havingexaminedthem,andtakenleaveofthechiefs,IrodetotheneighbouringvillageofBaasheikhah,onlyseparatedfromBaazanibyadeepwatercourse,dryexceptduringtherains.BothstandattheveryfootoftheGebelMakloub.Immediatelybehindthemarecraggyravineswornbywintertorrents.InthesevalleysarequarriesofthekindofalabasterusedintheAssyrianpalaces,butIcouldfindnoremainstoshowthattheAssyrianshadobtainedtheirgreatslabsfromthem,althoughtheyappeartobeofancientdate.

Ihavementioned,inmyformerwork,theAssyrianruinnearBaasheikhah.Itisavastmound,littleinferiorinsizetoNimroud,irregularinshape,uneveninlevel,andfurrowedbydeepravineswornbythewinter

rains.Standing,asitdoes,nearabundantquarriesofthefavoritesculpture-materialoftheAssyrians,andresemblingtheplatformsofKouyunjikorKhorsabad,therewaseveryprobabilitythatitcontainedtheremainsofanedificelikethoseruins.Thereareafewlowmoundsscatteredaroundit,butnodistinctlineofwallsforminganinclosure.Duringtheformerexcavationsonlyearthenjars,andbricks,inscribedwiththenameofthefounderofthecentrepalaceatNimroud,hadbeendiscovered.ApartyofArabsandTiyariwerenowopeningtrenchesandtunnelsinvariouspartsofthemound,underthesuperintendenceofYakoubRaisofAsheetha.Theworkmenhaduncovered,onthewestsideoftheruinnearthesurface,somelargeblocksofyellowishlimestoneapparentlyformingaflightofsteps;theonlyotherantiquitiesofanyinterestfoundduringtheexcavationswereafewbricksbearingthenameofthe

earlyNimroudking,andnumerousfragmentsofearthenware.

Itisremarkablethatnoremainsofmoreinteresthavebeendiscoveredinthismound,whichmustcontainamonumentofconsiderablesizeandantiquity.Althoughthetrenchesopenedinitwerenumerousanddeep,yettheruinhasnotyetprobablybeensufficientlyexamined.Itcanscarcelybedoubtedthatontheartificialplatform,asonothersofthesamenature,stoodaroyalpalace,orsomemonumentofequalimportance.

[Illustration:Bulls,withhistoricalInscriptionsofSennacherib

(Kouyunjik).]

CHAPTERVI.

DISCOVERYOFGRANDENTRANCETOTHEPALACEOFKOUYUNJIK.--OFTHENAMEOFSENNACHERIBINTHEINSCRIPTIONS.--THERECORDSOFTHATKINGINTHEINSCRIPTIONSONTHEBULLS.--ANABRIDGEDTRANSLATIONOFTHEM.--NAMEOFHEZEKIAH.--ACCOUNTOFSENNACHERIB'SWARSWITHTHEJEWS.--DR.HINCKSANDCOL.RAWLINSON.--THENAMESOFSARGONANDSHALMANESER.--DISCOVERY

7/31/2019 Ninevah


OFSCULPTURESATKOUYUNJIK,REPRESENTINGTHESIEGEOFLACHISH.--DESCRIPTIONOFTHESCULPTURES.--DISCOVERYOFCLAYSEALS--OFSIGNETSOFEGYPTIANANDASSYRIANKINGS.--CARTOUCHEOFSABACO.--NAMEOFESSARHADDON.--CONFIRMATIONOFHISTORICALRECORDSOFTHEBIBLE.--ROYALCYLINDEROFSENNACHERIB.

DuringthemonthofDecember,severaldiscoveriesofthegreatestinterestandimportanceweremade,bothatKouyunjikandNimroud.IwillfirstdescribetheresultsoftheexcavationsintheruinsoppositeMosul.

Imustremindthereaderthat,shortlybeforemydepartureforEuropein1848,theforepartofahuman-headedbullofcolossaldimensionshadbeenuncoveredontheeastsideoftheKouyunjikPalace.Thissculpturethenappearedtoformonesideofanentranceordoorway,anditissoplacedintheplanoftheruinsaccompanyingmyformerwork.[48]Theexcavationshad,however,beenabandonedbeforeanyattemptcouldbemadetoascertainthefact.Onmyreturn,Ihaddirectedtheworkmentodigouttheoppositesculpture.Atunnel,nearly100feetinlength,wasaccordinglyopenedatrightanglestothebull,firstdiscovered,butwithoutcominguponanyotherremainsthanapavementofsquarelimestoneslabswhichstretchedwithoutinterruptionasfarastheexcavationwascarried.Iconsequentlydiscontinuedthecutting,asitwasevidentthatnoentrancecouldbeofsogreatawidth,andastherewerenoteventracesofbuildinginthat

direction.Theworkmenhavingbeenthenorderedtouncoverthebullwhichwasstillpartlyburiedintherubbish,itwasfoundthatadjoiningitwereothersculptures,andthatitformedpartofanexteriorfaçade.Theupperhalfofthenextslabhadbeendestroyed,butthelowerstillremained,andenabledmetorestorethefigureoftheAssyrianHerculesstranglingthelion,similartothatdiscoveredbetweenthebullsinthepropylæaofKhorsabad,andnowintheLouvre.Thehinderpartoftheanimalwasstillpreserved.Itsclawsgraspedthehugelimbsofthegiant,wholasheditwiththeserpent-headedscourge.Thelegs,feet,anddraperyofthegodwereintheboldestrelief,anddesignedwithgreattruthandvigor.Beyondthisfigure,inthesameline,wasasecondbull.Thefaçadethen

openedintoawideportal,guardedbyapairofwingedbulls,twentyfeetlong,andprobably,whenentire,morethantwentyfeethigh.Formingtheanglebetweenthemandtheouterbullsweregiganticwingedfiguresinlowrelief,andflankingthemweretwosmallerfigures,oneabovetheother.Beyondthisentrancewasagroupsimilartoandcorrespondingwiththatontheoppositeside,alsoleadingtoasmallerentranceintothepalace,andtoawallofsculpturedslabs;butherealltracesofbuildingandsculptureceased,andwefoundourselvesneartheedgeofthewater-wornravine.

Thusafaçadeofthesouth-eastsideofthepalace,formingapparentlythegrandentrancetotheedifice,hadbeendiscovered.Tencolossalbulls,withsixhumanfiguresofgiganticproportions,wereheregrouped

together,andthelengthofthewhole,withoutincludingthesculpturedwallscontinuedbeyondthesmallerentrances,was180feet.Theyhadrepresentedtheconquestofadistrict,probablypartofBabylonia,wateredbyabroadriverandwoodedwithpalms,spearmenonfootincombatwithAssyrianhorsemen,castlesbesieged,longlinesofprisoners,andbeastsofburdencarryingawaythespoil.Amongstvariousanimalsbroughtastributetotheconquerors,couldbedistinguishedalionledbyachain.

Thebulls,asIhavealreadyobserved,wereallmoreorlessinjured.The

7/31/2019 Ninevah


sameconvulsionofnature--forIcanscarcelyattributetoanyhumanviolencetheoverthrowofthesegreatmasses--hadshatteredsomeofthemintopieces,andscatteredthefragmentsamongsttheruins.Fortunately,however,thelowerpartsofall,and,consequently,theinscriptions,hadbeenmoreorlesspreserved.Tothisfactweowetherecoveryofsomeofthemostpreciousrecordswithwhichthemonumentsoftheancientworldhaverewardedthelaborsoftheantiquary.

Onthegreatbullsformingthecentreportalofthegrandentrance,wasonecontinuousinscription,injuredinparts,butstillsofarpreservedastobelegiblealmostthroughout.Itcontained152lines.Onthefourbullsofthefaçadeweretwoinscriptions,oneinscriptionbeingcarriedovereachpair,andthetwobeingofpreciselythesameimport.ThesetwodistinctrecordscontaintheannalsofsixyearsofthereignofSennacherib,besidesnumerousparticularsconnectedwiththereligionoftheAssyrians,theirgods,theirtemples,andtheerectionoftheirpalaces,allofthehighestinterestandimportance.

InmyfirstworkIpointedouttheevidence,irrespectiveoftheinscriptions,whichledmetoidentifythebuilderofthegreatpalaceofKouyunjikwithSennacherib.[49]Dr.Hincks,inamemoirontheinscriptionsofKhorsabad,readinJune,1849,butpublishedinthe"TransactionsoftheRoyalIrishAcademy"[50]in1850,wasthefirsttodetectthenameofthiskinginthegroupofarrowheadedcharactersatthe

commencementofnearlyalltheinscriptions,andoccurringonalltheinscribedbricksfromtheruinsofthisedifice.Subsequentdiscoveriesconfirmedthisidentification,butitwasnotuntilAugust,1851,thatthementionofanyactualeventrecordedintheBible,andinancientprofanehistory,wasdetectedonthemonuments,thusremovingallfurtherdoubtastothekingwhohadraisedthem.

ShortlyaftermyreturntoEnglandmycopiesoftheseinscriptionshavingbeenseenbyColonelRawlinson,heannouncedintheAthenæumofthe23dAugust,1851,thathehadfoundinthemnoticesofthereignofSennacherib,"whichplacedbeyondthereachofdisputehishistoricidentity,"andhegavearecapitulationoftheprincipaleventsrecordedonthemonuments,thegreaterpartofwhichareknowntousthrough

historyeithersacredorprofane.TheseinscriptionshavesincebeenexaminedbyDr.Hincks,andtranslatedbyhimindependentlyofColonelRawlinson.Hehaskindlyassistedmeingivingthefollowingabridgmentoftheircontents.

TheinscriptionsbeginwiththenameandtitlesofSennacherib.Itistoberemarkedthathedoesnotstylehimself"King,orratherHighPriest,ofBabylon,"ashisfatherhaddoneinthelatterpartofhisreign,fromwhichitmaybeinferredthatatthetimeofengravingtherecordhewasnottheimmediatesovereignofthatcity,althoughitschiefmayhavepaidtributetohim,and,nodoubt,acknowledgedhissupremacy.Hecallshimself"thesubduerofkingsfromtheupperseaofthesettingsun(theMediterranean)tothelowerseaoftherisingsun(thePersianGulf)."In

thefirstyearofhisreignhedefeatedMerodachBaladan,anamewithwhichwearefamiliar,foritisthiskingwhoismentionedintheOldTestamentassendinglettersandapresenttoHezekiah[51],whentheJewishmonarchinhisprideshowedtheambassadors"thehouseofhispreciousthings,thesilverandthegold,andthespices,andthepreciousointment,andallthehouseofhisarmour,andallthatwasfoundinhistreasures:therewasnothinginhishouse,norinallhisdominionsthatHezekiahshowedthemnot;"anactofvainboastingwhichledtothereproofoftheprophetIsaiah,andtohisforetellingthatallthiswealth,togetherwiththedescendantsofitsowner,shouldbecarriedaway

7/31/2019 Ninevah


asspoiltotheverycityfromwhichtheseambassadorscame.MerodachBaladaniscalledkingofKar-Duniyas,acityandcountryfrequentlymentionedintheAssyrianinscriptions,andcomprisingthesouthernmostpartofMesopotamia,neartheconfluenceoftheTigrisandEuphrates,togetherwiththedistrictswateredbythosetworivers,tothebordersofSusiana.Thisking,withthehelpofhisSusianianallies,hadrecentlyrecoveredBabylon,fromwhichSargon,Sennacherib'sfather,hadexpelledhiminthetwelfthyearofhisreign.Thebattleappearstohavebeenfoughtconsiderablytothenorthofthatcity.TheresultwasthatSennacheribtotallydefeatedMerodachBaladan,whofledtosavehislife,leavingbehindhimhischariots,_wagons_(?),horses,mares,_asses_(?),camels,and_ridinghorseswiththeirtrappingsforwar_(?).ThevictoriouskingthenadvancedtoBabylon,whereheplunderedthepalace,carryingoffavasttreasureofgold,silver,vesselsofgoldandsilver,preciousstones,menandwomenservants,andavarietyofobjectswhichcannotyetbesatisfactorilydetermined.Nolessthanseventy-ninecities(orfortresses),allthecastlesoftheChaldæans,andeighthundredandtwentysmalltowns(orvillages),dependentuponthem,weretakenandspoiledbytheAssyrianarmy,andthegreatwanderingtribes"thatdweltaroundthecitiesofMesopotamia,"theSyrians(Arameans),andChaldæans,&c.,&c.,werebroughtundersubjection.SennacheribhavingmadeBelib[52],oneofhisownofficers,sovereignoftheconqueredprovinces,proceededtosubduethepowerfultribeswhoborderontheEuphratesandTigris,andamongstthemtheHagarenesandNabathæans.Fromthese

wanderingpeoplehedeclaresthathecarriedofftoAssyria,probablycolonisingwiththem,aswasthecustom,new-builttownsandvillages,208,000men,women,andchildren,togetherwith7200horsesandmares,11,063_asses_(?),5230camels,120,100oxen,and800,500sheep.Itisremarkablethatthecamelsshouldbearsosmallaproportiontotheoxenandassesinthisenumerationofthespoil.AmongsttheBedouintribes,whonowinhabitthesamecountry,thecamelswouldbefarmorenumerous.[53]Itisinterestingtofind,thatinthosedays,asatalaterperiod,therewasbothanomadeandstationarypopulationinNorthernArabia.

Inthesameyear,SennacheribreceivedagreattributefromtheconqueredKhararah,andsubduedthepeopleofKherimmi,whomhedeclarestohave

beenlongrebellious(neitherpeoplecanasyetbeidentified),rebuilding(?orconsecrating)thecityofthelatter,andsacrificingontheoccasion,foritsdedicationtothegodsofAssyria,oneox,tensheep,tengoatsorlambs,andtwentyotheranimals.

Inthesecondyearofhisreign,SennacheribappearstohaveturnedhisarmstothenorthofNineveh,havingreducedinhisfirstyearthesoutherncountrytoobedience.BythehelpofAshur,hesays,hewenttoBishiandYasubirablai(bothnamesofdoubtfulreadingandnotidentified),whohadlongbeenrebellioustothekingshisfathers.HetookBethKilamzakh,theirprincipalcity,andcarriedawaytheirmen,smallandgreat,horses,mares,_asses_(?),oxen,andsheep.ThepeopleofBishiandYasubirablai,whohadfledfromhisservants,hebrought

downfromthemountainsandplacedthemunderoneofhiseunuchs,thegovernorofthecityofArapkha.Hemadetablets,and_wroteonthemthelaws(ortribute)imposedupontheconquered,andsetthemup_inthecity.HetookpermanentpossessionofthecountryofIllibi(Luristan?),andIspabara,itsking,afterbeingdefeated,fled,leavingthecitiesofMarubishtiandAkkuddu,theroyalresidences,withthirty-fourprincipaltowns,andvillagesnottobecounted,tobedestroyedbytheAssyrians,whocarriedawayalargeamountofcaptivesandcattle.Beth-barrua,thecityitselfanditsdependencies,SennacheribseparatedfromIllibi,andaddedtohisimmediatedominions.Thecityof_Ilbinzash_(?)heappointed

7/31/2019 Ninevah


tobethechiefcityinthisdistrict.Heabolisheditsformername,calleditKar-Sanakhirba(_i.e._thecityofSennacherib),andplacedinitanewpeople,annexingittothegovernmentofKharkhar,whichmusthavebeenintheneighbourhoodofHolwan,commandingthepassthroughMountZagros.

Inthethirdyearofhisreign,SennacheribappearstohaveoverranwithhisarmiesthewholeofSyria.HeprobablycrossedtheEuphratesaboveCarchemish,atornearthefordofThapsacus,andmarchedtothesea-coast,overthenorthernspurofMountLebanon.TheSyriansarecalledbytheirfamiliarbiblicalnameofHittites,theKhatti,orKhetta,bywhichtheywerealsoknowntotheEgyptians.ThefirstoppositionheappearstohavereceivedwasfromLuli(orLuliya),kingofSidon,whohadwithheldhishomage;butwhowassooncompelledtoflyfromTyretoYavaninthemiddleofthesea.Dr.HincksidentifiesthiscountrywiththeislandofCrete,orsomepartofthesoutherncoastofAsiaMinor,andwiththeYavan([Hebrew])oftheOldTestament,thecountryoftheIoniansorGreeks,anidentificationwhichIbelievetobecorrect.ThisveryPhoeniciankingismentionedbyJosephus(quotingfromMenander),underthenameofElulæus,aswarringwithShalmaneser,apredecessorofSennacherib.Heappearsnottohavebeencompletelysubduedbeforethis,butonlytohavepaidhomageortributetotheAssyrianmonarchs.[54]Sennacheribplacedaperson,whosenameisdoubtful(Col.RawlinsonreadsitTubaal),uponthethroneofLuli,andappointedhisannualtribute.All

thekingsofthesea-coastthensubmittedtohim,exceptZidkaha(compareZedekiah)orZidkabal,kingofAscalon.Thischiefwas,however,soonsubdued,andwassent,withhishouseholdandwealth,toAssyria,----(namedestroyed),thesonof_Rukipti_(?),aformerking,beingplacedonthethroneinhisstead.ThecitiesdependentuponAscalon,whichhadnotbeenobedienttohisauthority,hecapturedandplundered.Apassageofgreatimportance,whichnowoccurs,isunfortunatelysomuchinjuredthatithasnotyetbeensatisfactorilyrestored.Itappearstostatethatthe_chiefpriests_(?)andpeopleofEkron(?)haddethronedtheirkingPadiya,whowasdependentuponAssyria,andhaddeliveredhimuptoHezekiah,kingofJudæa.ThekingsofEgyptsentanarmy,themainpartofwhichissaidtohavebelongedtothekingofMilukhkha,(Meroe,orÆthiopia),toJudæa,probablytohelptheirJewishallies.Sennacherib

joinedbattlewiththeEgyptians,totallydefeatedthemnearthecityofAl....ku,capturingthecharioteersofthekingofMilukhkha,andplacingtheminconfinement.ThisbattlebetweenthearmiesoftheAssyriansandEgyptiansappearstobehintedatinIsaiahandintheBookofKings.[55]PadiyahavingbeenbroughtbackfromJerusalem,wasreplacedbySennacheribonhisthrone."Hezekiah,kingofJudah,"saystheAssyrianking,"whohadnotsubmittedtomyauthority,forty-sixofhisprincipalcities,andfortressesandvillagesdependinguponthem,ofwhichItooknoaccount,Icapturedandcarriedawaytheirspoil.I_shutup_(?)himselfwithinJerusalem,hiscapitalcity.Thefortifiedtowns,andtherestofhistowns,whichIspoiled,Iseveredfromhiscountry,andgavetothekingsofAscalon,Ekron,andGaza,soastomakehiscountrysmall.Inadditiontotheformertributeimposedupontheircountries,Iaddeda

tribute,thenatureofwhichIfixed."Thenextpassageissomewhatdefaced,butthesubstanceofitappearstobe,thathetookfromHezekiahthetreasurehehadcollectedinJerusalem,30talentsofgoldand800talentsofsilver,thetreasuresofhispalace,besideshissonsandhisdaughters,andhismaleandfemaleservantsorslaves,andbroughtthemalltoNineveh.Thecityitself,however,hedoesnotpretendtohavetaken.

TherecanbelittledoubtthatthecampaignagainstthecitiesofPalestinerecordedintheinscriptionsofSennacheribatKouyunjik,is

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thatdescribedintheOldTestament.Theeventsagreewithconsiderableaccuracy.WearetoldintheBookofKings,thatthekingofAssyria,inthefourteenthyearofthereignofHezekiah,"cameupagainstallthefencedcitiesofJudahandtookthem,"[56]ashedeclareshimselftohavedoneinhisannals.And,whatismostimportant,andperhapsoneofthemostremarkablecoincidencesofhistorictestimonyonrecord,theamountofthetreasureingoldtakenfromHezekiah,thirtytalents,agreesinthetwoperfectlyindependentaccounts.[57]Toomuchstresscannotbelaidonthissingularfact,asittendstoprovethegeneralaccuracyofthehistoricaldetailscontainedintheAssyrianinscriptions.Thereisadifferenceof500talents,asitwillbeobserved,intheamountofsilver.ItisprobablethatHezekiahwasmuchpressedbySennacherib,andcompelledtogivehimallthewealththathecouldcollect,aswefindhimactuallytakingthesilverfromthehouseoftheLord,aswellasfromhisowntreasury,andcuttingoffthegoldfromthedoorsandpillarsofthetemple,tosatisfythedemandsoftheAssyrianking.TheBiblemaythereforeonlyincludetheactualamountofmoneyinthe300talentsofsilver,whilsttheAssyrianrecordscompriseallthepreciousmetaltakenaway.Therearesomechronologicaldiscrepancieswhichcannotatpresentbesatisfactorilyreconciled,andwhichIwillnotattempttoexplain.ItisnaturaltosupposethatSennacheribwouldnotperpetuatethememoryofhisownoverthrow;andthat,havingbeenunsuccessfulinanattemptuponJerusalem,hisarmybeingvisitedbytheplaguedescribedinScripture,heshouldglossoverhisdefeatbydescribingthetributehehadpreviously

receivedfromHezekiahasthegeneralresultofhiscampaign.Thereisnoreasontobelieve,fromthebiblicalaccount,thatSennacheribwasslainbyhissons_immediately_afterhisreturntoNineveh;onthecontrary,theexpression"hereturnedanddweltatNineveh,"infersthathecontinuedtoreignforsometimeoverAssyria.Wehaveaccordinglyhisfurtherannalsonthemonumentsheerected.Inhisfourthyearhewentsouthward,andsubduedthecountryofBeth-Yakin,defeatingSusubira,theChaldæan,whodweltinthecityofBittutontheriver--(Agammi,accordingtoRawlinson).FurthermentionismadeofMerodachBaladan."ThiskingwhomIhaddefeatedinaformercampaign,escapedfrommyprincipalservantsandfledtoanisland(namelost);hisbrothers,theseedofhisfather'shouse,whomheleftbehindhimonthecoast,withtherestofthe

menofhiscountryfromBeth-Yakin,nearthe_salt_(?)river(theShat-el-Arab,orunitedwatersoftheTigrisandEuphrates),Icarriedaway,andseveralofhistownsIthrewdownandburnt;Assurnad_immi_(?Assurnadin,accordingtoRawlinson),myson,Iplacedonthethroneofhiskingdom."Heappearsthentohavemadealargegovernment,ofwhichBabylonwasthechiefplace.

InthefifthyearhedefeatedtheTokkari,capturingtheirprincipalstrongholdorNipour(_detachedhill-fort_?),andothersoftheircastles.HealsoattackedManiyakh,kingof_Okku_or_Wukku_(?),acountrytowhichnopreviousAssyriankinghadpenetrated.Thischiefdesertedhiscapitalandfledtoadistance.Sennacheribcarriedoffthespoilofhispalaceandplunderedhiscities.Thisexpeditionseemsto

havebeentothenorthofAssyriainArmeniaorAsiaMinor.

InthefollowingyearSennacheribagainmarchedtothemouthsoftheEuphratesandTigris,andattackedthetwocitiesofNaghitandNaghitDibeena.BothcitiesbelongedtotheKingofElam(Elamti),orNuvaki,thetwonamesbeingusedindifferentlyforthesamecountry.TheAssyrianking,inordertoreachthem,wascompelledtobuildships,andtoemploythemarinersofTyre,Sidon,andYavan,asnavigators.HebroughtthesevesselsdowntheTigris,andcrossedonthemtotheSusianiansideoftheriver,afterhavingfirst,itwouldseem,takenthecityNaghitwhich

7/31/2019 Ninevah


stoodonthewesternbank.Heofferedprecioussacrificestoagod(?Neptune,butnamedoubtful)onthebankofthesaltriver,anddedicatedtohimashipofgold,andtwoothergoldenobjects,thenatureofwhichhasnotbeendetermined.MentionisthenmadeofhishavingcapturedNaghitDibeena,togetherwiththreeothercities,whosenamescannotbewellascertained,andofhiscrossingtheriver_Ula_(?theUlaiofDaniel,theEulæusoftheGreeks,andthemodernKaroon).Unfortunatelythewholeofthepassagewhichcontainstherecordoftheexpeditionagainstthesecitiesismuchdefaced,andhasnotyetbeensatisfactorilyrestored.ItappearstogiveinterestingdetailsofthebuildingoftheshipsontheTigris,bythemenofTyreandSidon,andofthenavigationofthatriver.

SucharetheprincipalhistoricalfactsrecordedonthebullsplacedbySennacheribinhispalaceatNineveh.Ihavegiventhemfully,inorderthatwemayendeavourtoidentifythesculpturedrepresentationsoftheseeventsonthewallsofthechambersandhallsofthatmagnificentbuilding,describedinthecourseofthiswork.

AsthenameofSennacherib,aswellasthoseofmanykings,countriesandcities,arenotwrittenphonetically,thatis,bylettershavingacertainalphabeticvalue,butbymonograms,andthedecipheringofthemisapeculiarprocess,whichmaysometimesappearsuspicioustothosenotacquaintedwiththesubject,afewwordsofexplanationmaybeacceptable

tomyreaders.ThegreaternumberofAssyrianpropernameswithwhichweareacquainted,whetherroyalornot,appeartohavebeenmadeupofthename,epithet,ortitle,ofoneofthenationaldeities,andofasecondword,suchas"slaveof,""servantof,""belovedof,""protectedby;"likethe"Theodosius,""Theodorus,"&c.oftheGreeks,andthe"Abdullah,"and"Abd-ur-Rahman,"ofMohammedannations.Thenamesofthegodsbeingcommonlywrittenwithamonogram,thefirststepindecipheringistoknowwhichgodthisparticularsigndenotes.Thus,inthenameofSennacherib,wehavefirstthedeterminativeof"god,"towhichnophoneticvalueisattached;whilstthesecondcharacterdenotesanAssyriangod,whosenamewasSan.ThefirstcomponentpartofthenameofEssarhaddon,isthemonogramforthegodAssur.Itisthisfactwhichrendersitsodifficulttodetermine,withanydegreeofconfidence,mostoftheAssyriannames,

andwhichleadsmetowarnmyreadersthat,withtheexceptionofsuchascanwithcertaintybeidentifiedwithwell-knownhistorickings,asSargon,Sennacherib,andEssarhaddon,theinterpretationofallthosewhicharefoundonthemonumentsofNineveh,isliabletoveryconsiderabledoubt.InspeakingofthemIshall,therefore,notuseanyofthereadingswhichhavebeensuggestedbydifferentwriters.

AlthoughnoquestioncanreasonablyexistastotheidentificationofthekingwhobuiltthepalaceofKouyunjikwiththeSennacheribofScripture,itmaystillbedesirabletoplacebeforemyreadersallthecorroborativeevidenceconnectedwiththesubject.Insodoing,however,Ishallhavetorefertothediscoveriesmadeatasubsequentperiod,andwhichoughtconsequentlytobedescribed,iftheorderofthenarrativebestrictly

preserved,inasubsequentpartofthiswork.Inthefirstplace,itmustberememberedthattheKouyunjikkingwasundoubtedlythesonofthefounderofthepalaceatKhorsabad.HeissocalledintheinscriptionsbehindthebullsintheS.W.palaceatNimroud,andinnumerousdetachedinscriptionsonbricks,andonotherremainsfromthoseruinsandfromKouyunjik.NowthenameoftheKhorsabadkingwasgenerallyadmittedtobeSargon,evenbeforehisrelationshiptotheKouyunjikkingwasknown;althoughhereagainweareobligedtoattachphoneticpowerstocharactersusedasmonograms,which,whenoccurringassimpleletters,appeartohavetotallydifferentvalues.ColonelRawlinsonstates,thatthiskingbears

7/31/2019 Ninevah


inotherinscriptionsthenameofShalmaneser,bywhichhewasbetterknowntotheJews.[58]Dr.Hincksdeniesthatthetwonamesbelongtothesameperson.

Unfortunatelytheupperpartsofnearlyallthebas-reliefsatKouyunjikhavingbeendestroyedtheepigraphsarewanting;andweareunable,asyet,toidentifywithcertaintythesubjectrepresentedwithanyknowneventinthereignofSennacherib.Thereis,however,oneremarkableexception.

DuringthelatterpartofmyresidenceatMosulachamberwasdiscoveredinwhichthesculptureswereinbetterpreservationthananybeforefoundatKouyunjik.Someoftheslabs,indeed,werealmostentire,thoughcrackedandotherwiseinjuredbyfire;andtheepigraph,whichfortunatelyexplainedtheeventportrayed,wascomplete.Thesebas-reliefsrepresentedthesiegeandcapturebytheAssyrians,ofacityevidentlyofgreatextentandimportance.Itappearstohavebeendefendedbydoublewalls,withbattlementsandtowers,andbyfortifiedoutworks.Thecountryarounditwashillyandwooded,producingthefigandthevine.Thewholepowerofthegreatkingseemstohavebeencalledforthtotakethisstronghold.Innoothersculpturesweresomanyarmedwarriorsseendrawnupinarraybeforeabesiegedcity.Thebesiegeddefendedthemselveswithgreatdetermination.Spearmen,archers,andslingersthrongedthebattlementsandtowers,showeringarrows,javelins,stones,andblazing

torchesupontheassailants.Partofthecityhad,however,beentaken.BeneathitswallswereseenAssyrianwarriorsimpalingtheirprisoners,andfromthegatewayofanadvancedtower,orfort,issuedaprocessionofcaptives,reachingtothepresenceoftheking,who,gorgeouslyarrayed,receivedthemseatedonhisthrone.Thevanquishedpeopleweredistinguishedfromtheconquerorsbytheirdress,thosewhodefendedthebattlementsworeapointedhelmet,differingfromthatoftheAssyrianwarriorsinhavingafringedlappetfallingovertheears.Someofthecaptiveshadakindofturbanwithoneendhangingdowntotheshoulder,notunlikethatwornbythemodernArabsoftheHedjaz.Othershadnohead-dress,andshorthairandbeards.Theirgarmentsconsistedeitherofarobereachingtotheankles,orofatunicscarcelyfallinglowerthanthethigh,andconfinedatthewaistbyagirdle.Thewomenworelong

shirts,withanoutercloakthrown,liketheveilofmodernEasternladies,overthebackoftheheadandfallingtothefeet.

Severalprisonerswerealreadyinthehandsofthetorturers.Twowerestretchednakeduponthegroundtobeflayedalive,otherswerebeingslainbytheswordbeforethethroneoftheking.Thehaughtymonarchwasreceivingthechiefsoftheconquerednation,whocrouchedandknelthumblybeforehim.TheywerebroughtintotheroyalpresencebytheTartanoftheAssyrianforces,probablytheRabshakehhimself,followedbyhisprincipalofficers.Thegeneralwasclothedinembroideredrobes,andworeonhisheadafilletadornedwithrosettesandlongtasseledbands.

Thethroneofthekingstooduponanelevatedplatform,probablyan

artificialmound,inthehillcountry.Itsarmsandsidesweresupportedbythreerowsoffiguresoneabovetheother.Thewoodwasrichlycarved,orencasedinembossedmetal,andthelegsendedinpine-shapedornaments,probablyofbronze.Thethrone,indeed,appearstohaveresembled,ineveryrespect,onediscoveredinthenorth-westpalaceatNimroud,whichIshallhereafterdescribe.[59]Overthehighbackwasthrownanembroideredcloth,doubtlessofsomerareandbeautifulmaterial.

[Illustration:SennacheribonhisThronebeforeLachish.]

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Theroyalfeetresteduponahighfootstoolofelegantform,fashionedlikethethrone,andcasedwithembossedmetal;thelegsendedinlions'paws.Behindthekingweretwoattendanteunuchsraisingfansabovehishead,andholdingtheembroiderednapkins.

Themonarchhimselfwasattiredinlonglooserobesrichlyornamented,andedgedwithtasselsandfringes.Inhisrighthandheraisedtwoarrows,andhisleftresteduponabow;anattitude,probablydenotingtriumphoverhisenemies,andinwhichheisusuallyportrayedwhenreceivingprisonersafteravictory.

Behindthekingwastheroyaltentorpavilion:andbeneathhimwerehisledhorses,andanattendantonfootcarryingtheparasol,theemblemofroyalty.Histwochariotswiththeircharioteers,werewaitingforhim.Thetrappingsofthehorseswerehandsomelydecorated,andanembroideredcloth,hungwithtassels,fellontheirchests.Twoquivers,holdingabow,ahatchet,andarrows,werefixedtothesideofthechariot.

Thisfineseriesofbas-reliefs,occupyingthirteenslabs,wasfinishedbytheground-planofacastle,orofafortifiedcampcontainingtentsandhouses.Withinthewallswasalsoseenafire-altarwithtwobeardlesspriests,wearinghighconicalcaps,standingbeforeit.Infrontofthealtar,onwhichburnedthesacredflame,wasatablebearingvarioussacrificialobjects,andbeyondittwosacredchariots,suchas

accompaniedthePersiankingsintheirwars.[60]Thehorseshadbeentakenout,andtheyokesresteduponstands.Eachchariotcarriedaloftypolesurmountedbyaglobe,andlongtasselsorstreamers;similarstandardswereintroducedintoscenesrepresentingsacrifices[61]inthesculpturesofKhorsabad.

Abovetheheadofthekingwasaninscription,whichmaybetranslated,"Sennacherib,themightyking,kingofthecountryofAssyria,sittingonthethroneofjudgment,before(orattheentranceof)thecityofLachish(Lakhisha).Igivepermissionforitsslaughter."

Here,therefore,wastheactualpictureofthetakingofLachish,thecity,asweknowfromtheBible,besiegedbySennacherib,whenhesenthis

generalstodemandtributeofHezekiah,andwhichhehadcapturedbeforetheirreturn[62];evidenceofthemostremarkablecharactertoconfirmtheinterpretationoftheinscriptions,andtoidentifythekingwhocausedthemtobeengravedwiththeSennacheribofScripture.Thishighlyinterestingseriesofbas-reliefscontained,moreover,anundoubtedrepresentationofaking,acity,andapeople,withwhosenamesweareacquainted,andofaneventdescribedinHolyWrit.Theyfurnishus,therefore,withillustrationsoftheBibleofverygreatimportance.ThecaptiveswereundoubtedlyJews,theirphysiognomywasstrikinglyindicatedinthesculptures,buttheyhadbeenstrippedoftheirornamentsandtheirfineraiment,andwereleftbare-footedandhalf-clothed.Fromthewomen,too,hadbeenremoved"thesplendorofthefootornamentsandthecapsofnetwork,andthecrescents;theear-pendants,andthebracelets,andthe

thinveils;thehead-dress,andtheornamentsofthelegsandthegirdles,andtheperfume-boxesandtheamulets;theringsandthejewelsofthenose;theembroideredrobesandthetunics,andthecloaksandthesatchels;thetransparentgarments,andthefinelinenvests,andtheturbansandthemantles,fortheyworeinsteadofagirdle,arope;andinsteadofastomacher,agirdlingofsackcloth."[63]

OthercorroborativeevidenceastotheidentityofthekingwhobuiltthepalaceofKouyunjikwithSennacherib,isscarcelylessremarkable.Inachamber,orpassage,inthesouth-westcornerofthisedifice,werefound

7/31/2019 Ninevah


alargenumberofpiecesoffineclaybearingtheimpressionsofseals,which,thereisnodoubt,hadbeenaffixed,likemodernofficialsealsofwax,todocumentswrittenonleather,papyrus,orparchment.Suchdocuments,withsealsinclaystillattached,havebeendiscoveredinEgypt,andspecimensarepreservedintheBritishMuseum.Thewritingsthemselveshadbeenconsumedbythefirewhichdestroyedthebuildingorhadperishedfromdecay.Inthestampedclay,however,maystillbeseentheholesforthestring,orstripsofskin,bywhichthesealwasfastened;insomeinstancestheashesofthestringitselfremain,[64]withthemarksofthefingersandthumb.

ThegreaterpartofthesesealsareAssyrian,butwiththemareothersbearingEgyptian,Phoenician,anddoubtfulsymbolsandcharacters.Sometimesthesamesealisimpressedmorethanonceonthesamepieceofclay.TheAssyriandevicesareofvariouskinds;themostcommonisthatofakingplungingadaggerintothebodyofarampantlion.Thisappearstohavebeentheroyal,and,indeed,thenational,sealorsignet.Itisfrequentlyencircledbyashortinscription,whichhasnotyetbeendeciphered,orbyasimpleguillocheborder.Thesamegroup,emblematicofthesuperiorpowerandwisdomoftheking,aswellasofhissacredcharacter,isfoundonAssyriancylinders,gems,andmonuments.

Otherdevicesfoundamongtheseimpressionsofsealsare:--1.Aking,attendedbyapriest,inactofadorationbeforeadeitystandingona

lion,andsurroundedbysevenstars:abovethegod'shead,ononeseal,isascorpion.2.Theking,followedbyanattendantbearingaparasol,andprecededbyarampanthorse.3.Agod,ortheking,probablytheformer,risingfromacrescent.Thereappearstobeafishinfrontofthefigure.4.Theking,withaneunuchorpriestbeforehim;aflower,orornamentedstaff,betweenthem.5.Ascorpion,surroundedbyaguillocheborder(adeviceofveryfrequentoccurrence,andprobablyastronomical).6.Apriestworshippingbeforeagod.Behindhimareabull,andthesacredastronomicalemblems.8.Anearofcorn,surroundedbyafancyborder.9.Anobjectresemblingadagger,withflowersattachedtothehandle;perhapsasacrificialknife.10.Theheadofabullandatrident,twosacredsymbolsoffrequentoccurrenceonAssyrianmonuments.11.Acrescentinthemidstofamany-rayedstar.12.Severalrudelycutseals,

representingpriestsandvarioussacredanimals,stars,&c.

Thesealsmostremarkableforbeautyofdesignandskilfulexecutionrepresenthorsemen,oneatfullspeedraisingaspear,theotherhuntingastag.TheimpressionsshowthattheywerelittleinferiortoGreekintaglios.NoAssyrianorBabylonianrelicsyetdiscovered,equalthemindelicacyofworkmanship,andthebestexamplesoftheartofengravingongems,--anartwhichappearstohavereachedgreatperfectionamongsttheAssyrians,--areunknowntous,exceptthroughtheseimpressions.

TherearethreesealsapparentlyPhoenician;twoofthembearingPhoeniciancharacters,forwhichIcannotsuggestanyinterpretation.Afewhavedoubtfulsymbolsuponthem,whichIwillnotattempttoexplain;

perhapshieroglyphicalsigns.

OfthepurelyEgyptiansealstherearefour.Onehastwocartouchesplacedonthesymbolofgold,andeachsurmountedbyatallplume;theyprobablycontainedtheprænomenandnameofaking,butnottheslightesttraceremainsofthehieroglyphs.Theimpressionisconcave,havingbeenmadefromaconvexsurface:thebackofsomeoftheEgyptianovals,therudestformofthescarabæus,areofthisshape.OnthesecondsealisthefigureoftheEgyptiangodHarpocrates,seatedonalotusflower,withhisfingerplaceduponhismouth;anattitudeinwhichheisrepresentedonanivory

7/31/2019 Ninevah


fromNimroud.ThehieroglyphbeforehimdoesnotappeartobeEgyptian.

ButthemostremarkableandimportantoftheEgyptiansealsaretwoimpressionsofaroyalsignet,which,thoughimperfect,retainthecartouche,withthenameoftheking,soastobeperfectlylegible.ItisonewellknowntoEgyptianscholars,asthatofthesecondSabacotheÆthiopian,ofthetwenty-fifthdynasty.OnthesamepieceofclayisimpressedanAssyrianseal,withadevicerepresentingapriestministeringbeforetheking,probablyaroyalsignet.

Therecanbenodoubtwhateverastotheidentityofthecartouche.SabacoreignedinEgyptattheendoftheseventhcenturybeforeChrist,theexacttimeatwhichSennacheribcametothethrone.HeisprobablytheSomentionedinthesecondbookofKings(xvii.4.)ashavingreceivedambassadorsfromHoshea,thekingofIsrael,who,byenteringintoaleaguewiththeEgyptians,calleddownthevengeanceofShalmaneser,whosetributaryhewas,whichledtothefirstgreatcaptivityofthepeopleofSamaria.ShalmaneserweknowtohavebeenanimmediatepredecessorofSennacherib,andTirakhah,theEgyptianking,whowasdefeatedbytheAssyriansnearLachish,wastheimmediatesuccessorofSabacoII.

ItwouldseemthatapeacehavingbeenconcludedbetweentheEgyptiansandoneoftheAssyrianmonarchs,probablySennacherib,theroyalsignetsofthetwokings,thusfoundtogether,wereattachedtothetreaty,whichwas

depositedamongstthearchivesofthekingdom.Whilstthedocumentitself,writtenuponparchmentorpapyrus,hascompletelyperished,thissingularproofofthealliance,ifnotactualmeeting,ofthetwomonarchsisstillpreservedamidsttheremainsofthestatepapersoftheAssyrianempire;furnishingoneofthemostremarkableinstancesofconfirmatoryevidenceonrecord,[65]whetherweregarditasverifyingthecorrectnessoftheinterpretationofthecuneiformcharacter,orasanillustrationofScripturehistory.

Littledoubt,Itrust,cannowexistinthemindsofmyreadersastotheidentificationofthebuilderofthepalaceofKouyunjik,withtheSennacheribofScripture.Hadthenamestoodalone,wemightreasonablyhavequestionedthecorrectnessofthereading,especiallyasthesignsor

monograms,withwhichitiswritten,areadmittedtohavenophoneticpower.Butwhencharacters,whosealphabeticvalueshavebeendeterminedfromaperfectlydistinctsource,suchastheBabyloniancolumnofthetrilingualinscriptions,furnishuswithnamesintherecordsattributedtoSennacherib,writtenalmostidenticallyasintheHebrewversionoftheBible,suchasHezekiah,Jerusalem,Judah,Sidon,andothers,andalloccurringinoneandthesameparagraph,theirreading,moreover,confirmedbysynchronisms,andillustratedbysculpturedrepresentationsoftheevents,theidentificationmustbeadmittedtobecomplete.

ThepalaceofKhorsabad,asIhavealreadyobserved,wasbuiltbythefatherofSennacherib.Theedificeinthesouth-westcornerofNimroudwasraisedbytheson,aswelearnfromtheinscriptiononthebackofthe

bullsdiscoveredinthatbuilding.ThenameofthekingisadmittedtobeEssarhaddon,andthereareevents,asitwillhereafterbeseen,mentionedinhisrecords,whichfurthertendtoidentifyhimwiththeEssarhaddonofScripture,who,afterthemurderofhisfatherSennacherib,succeededtothethrone.

Imaymentioninconclusion,asconnectedwiththebullsformingthegrandentrance,thatintherubbishatthefootofoneofthemwerefoundfourcylindersandseveralbeads,withascorpioninlapislazuli,allapparentlyoncestrungtogether.Ononecylinderoftranslucentgreen

7/31/2019 Ninevah


felspar,calledamazonstone,whichIbelievetohavebeenthesignet,oramulet,ofSennacheribhimself,isengravedthekingstandinginanarchedframeasontherocktabletsatBavian,andattheNahr-el-KelbinSyria.Theintaglioofthisbeautifulgemisnotdeepbutsharpanddistinct,andthedetailsaresominute,thatamagnifyingglassisalmostrequiredtoperceivethem.

Onasmallercylinder,inthesamegreenfelspar,isacuneiforminscription,whichhasnotyetbeendeciphered,butwhichdoesnotappeartocontainanyroyalname.Ontwocylindersofonyx,alsofoundatKouyunjik,andnowintheBritishMuseum,are,however,thenameandtitlesofSennacherib.

CHAPTERVII.

ROADOPENEDFORREMOVALOFWINGEDLIONS.--DISCOVERYOFVAULTEDDRAIN.--OFOTHERARCHES.--OFPAINTEDBRICKS.--ATTACKOFTHETAIONTHEVILLAGEOFNIMROUD.--VISITTOTHEHOWAR.--DESCRIPTIONOFTHEENCAMPMENTOFTHETAI.--THEPLAINOFSHOMAMOK.--SHEIKHFARAS.--WALIBEY.--RETURNTONIMROUD.

Thegigantichuman-headedlions,firstdiscoveredinthenorth-westpalaceatNimroud,werestillstandingintheiroriginalposition.Havingbeencarefullycoveredupwithearthprevioustomydeparturein1848,theyhadbeenpreservedfromexposuretotheeffectsoftheweather,andtowantoninjuryonthepartoftheArabs.TheTrusteesoftheBritishMuseumwishingtoaddthesefinesculpturestothenationalcollection,Iwasdirectedtoremovethementire.Aroadthroughtheruins,fortheirtransporttotheedgeofthemound,wasinthefirstplacenecessary,anditwascommencedearlyinDecember.Theywouldthusbereadyforembarkationassoonasthewatersoftheriverweresufficientlyhightobeararaftsoheavilyladen,overtherapidsandshallowsbetweenNimroudandBaghdad.Thisroadwasdugtothelevelofthepavementorartificial

platform,andwasnotfinishedtilltheendofFebruary,asalargemassofearthandrubbishhadtobetakenawaytothedepthoffifteenortwentyfeet.DuringtheprogressoftheworkwefoundsomecarvedfragmentsofivorysimilartothosealreadyplacedintheBritishMuseum;andtwomassivesocketsinbronze,inwhichturnedthehingesofagateofthepalace.Noremainsofthedoor-posts,orotherpartsofthegate,werediscoveredintheruins,anditisuncertainwhethertheseringswerefixedinstoneorwood.[66]

Inthesouth-easterncornerofthemoundtunnelscarriedbeneaththeruinededifice,whichisoftheseventhcenturyB.C.,showedtheremainsofanearlierbuilding.A_vaulted_drain,aboutfivefeetinwidth,wasalsodiscovered.Thearchwasturnedwithlargekiln-burntbricks,and

resteduponsidewallsofthesamematerial.Thebricksbeingsquare,andnotexpresslymadeforvaulting,aspacewasleftabovethecentreofthearch,whichwasfilledupbybricks,laidlongitudinally.

Althoughthismaynotbeaperfectarch,wehaveseenfromthevaultedchamberdiscoveredintheverycentreofthehighmoundatthenorth-westcorner,thattheAssyrianswerewellacquaintedatanearlyperiodwithitstrueprinciple.Otherexampleswerenotwantingintheruins.Theearthfallingawayfromthesidesofthedeeptrenchopenedinthenorth-westpalacefortheremovalofthebullandlionduringtheformer

7/31/2019 Ninevah


excavations,leftuncoveredtheentrancetoavaulteddrainorpassage,builtofsun-driedbricks.Beneathwasasmallwatercourse,inclosedbysquarepiecesofalabaster.Athirdarch,equallyperfectincharacter,wasfoundbeneaththeruinsofthesouth-eastedifice.Atunnelhadbeenopenedalmostonalevelwiththeplain,andcarriedfarintothesouthernfaceofthemound,butwithoutthediscoveryofanyotherremainsofbuildingthanthissolitarybrickarch.

Inthesouth-eastcornerofthequadrangle,formedbythelowmoundsmarkingthewallsoncesurroundingthisquarterofthecityofNineveh,ortheparkattachedtotheroyalresidence,thelevelofthesoilisconsiderablyhigherthaninanyotherpartoftheinclosedspace.Thissuddeninequalityevidentlyindicatesthesiteofsomeancientedifice.Connectedwithit,risingabruptly,andalmostperpendicularly,fromtheplain,andformingoneofthecornersofthewalls,isalofty,irregularmound,whichisknowntotheArabsbythenameoftheTelofAthur,theLieutenantofNimroud.[67]Tunnelsandtrenchesopenedinitshowednothingbutearth,unmingledevenwithbricksorfragmentsofstone.Remainsofwallsandapavementofbakedbrickswere,however,discoveredinthelowerpartoftheplatform.Thebrickshadevidentlybeentakenfromsomeotherbuilding,foruponthemweretracesofcolouredfiguresandpatterns,ofthesamecharacterasthoseonthesculpturedwallsofthepalaces.Theirpaintedfaceswereplaceddownwards,asifpurposelytoconcealthem,andthedesignsuponthemwereinmostinstancesinjuredor

destroyed.Afewfragmentswerecollected,andarenowintheBritishMuseum.Thecolorshavefaded,butwereprobablyonceasbrightastheenamelsofKhorsabad.Theoutlinesarewhite,andthegroundapaleblueandolivegreen.Theonlyothercolorusedisadullyellow.Themostinterestingspecimensare:--

1.Fourcaptivestiedtogetherbytheirnecks,theendoftheropebeingheldbytheforemostprisoner,whosehandsarefree,whilsttheothershavetheirarmsboundbehind.TheyprobablyformedpartofalineofcaptivesledbyanAssyrianwarrior.Theyarebeardless,andhavebaldheads,towhichisattachedasinglefeather.[68]Twoofthemhavewhiteclothsroundtheirloins,theotherslongwhiteshirtsopeninfront,liketheshirtofthemodernArab.Thefiguresonthisfragmentareyellowona

blueground.

2.SimilarcaptivesfollowedbyanAssyriansoldier.Thearmourofthewarrioristhatofthelaterperiod,thescalesandgreavesarepaintedblueandyellow,andthetunicblue.Thegroundblue.

3.Partsoftwohorses,ofamanholdingadagger,andofanAssyrianwarrior.Thehorsesareblue.Themanappearstohavebeenwoundedorslaininbattle,andisnaked,withtheexceptionofatwistedblueclothroundtheloins.Groundanolivegreen.

4.Fragment,withAssyrianwarriorsonhorses.Horsesyellow,withbluetrappings.Groundolivegreen.

5.Partofachariotandhorse,yellowonablueground.

6.Aman,withawhiteclothroundhisloins,piercedbytwoarrows.Afish,blue,withthescalesmarkedinwhite;andpartofahorse'shead,yellow.Groundyellow.

7.Partofawalledtower,orfort,withsquarebattlements;white,onablueground.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


8.Fragmentofaveryspiriteddesignrepresentingachariotandhorsespassingoveranakedfigure,piercedthroughtheneckbyanarrow.Underthisgrouparetheheads,andpartsoftheshields,oftwoAssyrianwarriors.Thewoundedmanwearsafilletroundhishead,towhichisattachedafeather.Thehorsesareblue,andtheirtrappingswhite;thewheelsofthechariot,yellow.Theshieldsofthewarriorsareblue,edgedbyabandofalternatesquaresofblueandyellow;theirhelmetsareyellow,butthefacesappeartobemerelyoutlinedinwhiteontheolivegreenground.

9.ThelowerpartofanAssyrianwarrior,hisarmourandgreavesblue,yellow,andwhite.Thenakedhandisofapalebrowncolor.Groundolivegreen.

10.Acastle,withangularbattlements;white,withyellowbandsonablueground.Asquaredoorispaintedblue.

Allthesefragmentsevidentlybelongtothesameperiod,andprobablytothesamegeneralsubject.Ishouldconjecturethattheyhadbeentakenfromthesamebuildingasthedetachedbas-reliefsinthesouth-westpalace,andthatconsequentlytheymaybeattributedtothesameking.[69]Theoutlinesarespirited,incharacterandtreatmentresemblingthesculptures.

Afragmentofpaintedbrick,foundintheruinsofthenorth-westpalace,isundoubtedlyofadifferent,andofanearlier,period.Theoutlineisinblack,andnotinwhite.Theupperrobeisblue,theunderyellow,andthefringeswhite.Thegroundisyellow.

Butthemostperfectandinterestingspecimenofpaintingisthatonabrick,12inchesby9,discoveredinthecentreofthemoundofNimroud,andnowintheBritishMuseum.Itrepresentsthekingfollowedbyhisattendanteunuch,receivinghisgeneralorvizir,agroupverysimilartothoseseeninthesculpturesfromthenorth-westpalace.Abovehisheadisakindoffringedpavilionandpartofaninscription,whichappearstohavecontainedhisname;beneathhimistheAssyrianguillocheborder.Theoutlineisinblackuponapaleyellowground,thecolorshavingprobably

faded.FromthecostumeofthekingIbelievehimtobeeitherthebuilderofthenorth-westorcentrepalace.ThisisanuniquespecimenofanentireAssyrianpainting.

DuringthegreaterpartofthemonthofDecemberIresidedatNimroud.Onemorning,Iwassuddenlydisturbedbythereportsoffirearms,mingledwiththeshoutsofmenandtheshrieksofwomen.Issuingimmediatelyfromthehouse,Ifoundtheopenspacebehinditasceneofwildexcitementandconfusion.Horsemen,gallopinginalldirectionsandsingingtheirwarsong,weredrivingbeforethemwiththeirlongspearsthecattleandsheepofthevillage.Themenwerefiringattheinvaders;thewomen,armedwithtentpolesandpitchforks,andfillingtheairwiththeirshrillscreams,weretryingtorescuetheanimals.ThehorsemenoftheArabtribeofTai

hadtakenadvantageofathickmisthangingovertheJaif,tocrosstheZabearlyinthemorning,andtofalluponusbeforewewereawareoftheirapproach.Notimewastobelosttopreventbloodshed,andallitsdisagreeableconsequences.Ahorsewassoonready,andIrodetowardstheonewhoappearedtobethechiefoftheattackingparty.Althoughhisfeatureswereconcealedbythe_keffieh_closelydrawnoverthelowerpartofhisface,aftertheBedouinfashioninwar,hehadbeenrecognisedasSaleh,thebrotheroftheHowar,theSheikhoftheTai.AtmyurgentsolicitationSalehconsentedtorestoreallthathadbeenstolen,andeachonewasaccordinglyinvitedtoclaimhisownproperty.Inthemidstofthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


crowdofwranglersaboutlostcloaks,handkerchiefs,andthelike,aharesuddenlysprangfromherformanddartedovertheplain.Mygreyhounds,whohadfollowedmefromthehouse,immediatelypursuedher.ThiswastoomuchfortheArabs;theirloveofthechaseovercameeventheirpropensityforappropriatingotherpeople'sproperty;cattle,cloaks,swords,and _keffiehs_wereabandonedtotheirrespectiveclaimants,andthewholebandofmaraudersjoinedwildlyinthepursuit.BeforewehadreachedthegamewewerefardistantfromNimroud.Iseizedtheopportunitytoconcludethetruce,andSalehwithhisfollowersrodeslowlybacktowardsthefordoftheZabtoseekhisbrother'stents.Ipromisedtovisit,theHowarintwoorthreedays,andwepartedwithmutualassurancesoffriendship.

IspentChristmas-dayatNimroud,andonthe28thsetouttovisittheHowar.Schlossagainaccompaniedme,Mr.Rolland(atraveller,whohadrecentlyjoinedus),Hormuzd,andAwadbeingoftheparty.LeavingtheKutherEliastotheleft,wepassedtheruinedvillageofKini-Hareim,takingthedirecttracktotheZab.Theriver,windingthrougharichalluvialplain,dividesitselfintofourbranches,beforeenteringarangeoflowconglomeratehills,betweenwhichitsweepsinitsnarrowedbedwithgreatvelocity.Thefourchannelsareeachfordable,exceptduringfloods,andtheArabsgenerallycrossatthisspot.Thewaterreachedabovethebelliesofourhorses,butwefoundnodifficultyinstemmingthecurrent.Theislandsandthebankswereclothedwithtreesand

brushwood.Inthemudandsandnearthejunglewereinnumerabledeep,sharpprintsofthehoofofthewildboar.

ThetentsoftheHowarwerestillhigheruptheZab.Sendingahorsemantoapprisethechiefofourapproach,werodeleisurelytowardsthem.AswepassedbyasmallvillagenamedKaaitli,thewomencameoutwiththeirchildren,andpointingtomeexclaimed,"Look,look!thisistheBegwhoiscomefromtheotherendoftheworldtodigupthebonesofourgrandfathersandgrandmothers!"asacrilegewhichtheyseemedinclinedtoresent.Saleh,attheheadoffiftyorsixtyhorsemen,metusbeyondthevillage,andconductedustotheencampmentofhisbrother.

Thetentswerepitchedinlong,parallellines.Thatofthechiefheldthe

foremostplace,andwasdistinguishedbyitssize,theuprightspearstuftedwithostrichfeathersatitsentrance,andthemanyhigh-bredmarestetheredbeforeit.Asweapproached,atall,commandingfigure,oferectandnoblecarriage,issuedfrombeneaththeblackcanvass,andadvancedtoreceiveme.IhadneverseenamongsttheArabsamanofsuchloftystature.Hisfeatureswereregularandhandsome,buthisbeard,havingbeenfreshdyedwithhennahalone,wasofabrightbrick-redhue,illsuitedtothegravityanddignityofhiscountenance.Hisheadwasencircledbyarichcashmereshawl,oneendfallingoverhisshoulder,asisthecustomamongsttheArabsoftheHedjaz.Heworeacrimsonsatinrobeandablackcloak,elegantlyembroidereddowntheback,andononeofthewidesleeveswithgoldthreadandmany-coloredsilks.ThiswasSheikhHowar.

AsIdismounted,theSheikhadvancedtoembraceme,andwhenhisarmswereroundmyneckmyheadscarcelyreachedtohisshoulder.Heledmeintothatpartofthetentwhichissetasideforguests.Ithadbeenpreparedformyreception,andwasnotillfurnishedwithcushionsofsilkandsoftKurdishcarpets.ThetentitselfwasmorecapaciousthanthoseusuallyfoundamongstArabs.Theblackgoat-haircanvassalonewastheloadofthreecamels[70],andwassupportedbysixpolesdownthecentre,withthesamenumberoneitherside.Aroundabrightfirewasanarrayofhighlyburnishedmetalcoffee-pots,thelargestcontainingseveralquarts,and

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thesmallestscarcelybigenoughtofillthediminutivecupreservedforthesolitarystranger.

Coffeewas,ofcourse,thefirstbusiness.Itwashighlyspiced,asdrankbytheBedouins.TheHowar,aftersomegeneralconversation,spokeofthepoliticsoftheTai,andtheirdifferenceswiththeTurkishgovernment.ThesameruinoussystemwhichhasturnedsomeoftherichestdistrictsofAsiaintoadesert,andhasdriveneveryArabclanintoopenrebellionagainsttheSultan,hadbeenpursuedtowardshimselfandhistribe.OwingtotheextortionatedemandsoftheTurkishgovernors,andintestinedissensionsandbroilsbetweentheArabsthemselves,thecountryhadrapidlybeenreducedtoastateofanarchy.TheArabs,havingnooneresponsiblechief,took,ofcourse,toplundering.ThevillagesontheMosulsideoftheZab,aswellasinthepopulousdistrictofArbil,werelaidwaste.TheKurds,whocamedownintotheplainsduringthewinter,wereencouragedtofollowtheexampleoftheTai,and,fromtherapaciousnessandmisconductofoneortwoofficersoftheTurkishgovernment,evilshadensuedwhoseconsequenceswillbefeltforyears,andwhichwillendinaddinganotherrichdistricttothedesert.SuchisthehistoryofalmosteverytribeinTurkey,andsuchthecausesofthedesolationthathasspreadoverherfinestprovinces.

TheTaiisaremnantofoneofthemostancientandrenownedtribesofArabia.TheHowarhimselftraceshisdescentfromHatem,asheikhofthe

tribewholivedintheseventhcentury,andwho,astheimpersonationofallthevirtuesofBedouinlife,isthethemetothisdayoftheArabmuse.Hishospitality,hisgenerosity,hiscourage,andhisskillasahorsemanwerealikeunequalled,andthereisnonamemorehonoredamongstthewildinhabitantsofthedesertthanthatofHatemTai.TheHowarisproudofhisheroicancestor,andtheBedouinsacknowledgeandrespecthisdescent.[71]

WedinedwiththeSheikhandsatuntilthenightwasfarspent,listeningtotalesofArablife,andtothetraditionsofhistribe.

Onthefollowingmorningthetentswerestruckatsunrise,andthechiefmovedwithhisfollowerstonewpastures.Thecrowdofcamels,flocks,

cattle,ladenbeastsofburden,horsemen,footmen,womenandchildrendarkenedtheplainforsomemiles.WepassedthroughthemidstofthemwiththeSheikh,andleavinghimtofixthespotforhisencampment,weturnedfromtheriverandrodeinlandtowardsthetentsofhisrivalandcousin,Faras.Saleh,withafewhorsemen,accompaniedme,oneofmyspecialobjectsbeingtobringaboutareconciliationbetweenthetwochiefs.

Theplain,boundedbytheTigris,thegreatandlesserZab,andtheKurdishhills,isrenownedforitsfertility.ItisthegranaryofBaghdad,anditisacommonsayingamongsttheArabs,"thatiftherewereafamineovertherestoftheearth,Shomamok(forsotheprincipalpartoftheplainiscalled)wouldstillhaveitsharvest."Thisdistrict

belongschieflytotheTaiArabs,whowanderfrompasturetopasture,andleavethecultivationofthesoiltosmallsedentarytribesofArabs,Turcomans,andKurds,whodwellinvillages,andpayanannualtributeinmoneyorinkind.

Aswerodealongwepassedmanypeasantsindustriouslydrivingtheploughthroughtherichsoil.Largeflocksofgazellesgrazedinthecultivatedpatches,scarcelyfearingthehusbandman,thoughspeedilyboundingawayovertheplainashorsemenapproached.Artificialmoundsroseonallsidesofus,andnearoneofthelargest,calledAbou-Jerdeh,wefoundtheblack

7/31/2019 Ninevah


tentsofSheikhFaras.Therainbegantofallintorrentsbeforewereachedtheencampment.Thechiefhadriddenouttoaneighbouringvillagetomakearrangementsforourbetterprotectionagainsttheweather.Hesoonreturnedurginghismaretothetopofherspeed.Inpersonhewasastrangecontrasttotheeldermemberofhisfamily.Hewasshort,squat,andfat,andhiscoarsefeatureswereburiedinaframeofhairdyedbrightred.Hewas,however,profuseinassurancesoffriendship,talkedincessantly,agreedtoallIproposedwithregardtoareconciliationwiththeotherbranchofthetribe,andreceivedSalehwitheveryoutwardsignofcordiality.Hissonhadmoreofthedignityofhisrace,buttheexpressionofhiscountenancewasforbiddingandsinister.Thetwoyoungmen,astheysat,castlooksofdefianceateachother,andIhadsomedifficultyinrestrainingSalehfrombreakingoutininvectives,whichprobablywouldhaveendedinanappealtothesword.

Astherainincreasedinviolence,andthetentofferedbutanimperfectshelter,wemovedtothevillage,whereahousehadbeenpreparedforusbyitshonest,kind-heartedTurcomanchief,WaliBey.Withunaffectedhospitalityheinsistedthatweshouldbecomehisguests,andhadalreadyslainthesheepforourentertainment.Ihavemetfewmenwhoexceed,inhonestyandfidelity,thedescendantsofthepureTurcomanrace,scatteredoverAsiaMinorandthedistrictswateredbytheTigris.

Onthefollowingmorning,WaliBeyprovidedanamplebreakfast,inwhich

alltheluxuriesofthevillageweresetbeforeus.OnreachingtheZab,wefounditrisingrapidlyfromtherainsofthepreviousday.Ourservantshadalreadycrossed,buttheriverwasnowimpassable.Wesoughtafordhigherup,andabovethejunctionoftheGhazir.Havingstruggledinvainagainsttheswollenstream,wewerecompelledtogiveuptheattempt.Nothingremainedbuttoseektheferryonthehighroad,betweenArbilandMosul.Wedidnotreachthesmallvillage,wherearaftiskeptfortheuseoftravellersandcaravans,untilnearlyfouro'clockintheafternoon,anditwassunsetbeforewehadcrossedtheriver.

WehurriedalongthedirecttracktoNimroud,hopingtocrosstheGhazirbeforenight-fall.Butfreshdifficultiesawaitedus.Thatsmallriver,collectingthetorrentsoftheMissourihills,hadoverflownitsbed,and

itswaterswererushingtumultuouslyonwards,withabreadthofstreamalmostequallingtheTigris.Werodealongitsbanks,hopingtofindanencampmentwherewecouldpassthenight.Atlength,inthetwilight,wespiedsomeArabs,whoimmediatelytookrefugebehindthewallsofaruinedvillage,andbelievingustobemaraudersfromthedesert,preparedtodefendthemselvesandtheircattle.Directingtherestofthepartytostop,IrodeforwardwiththeBairakdar,andwasintimetopreventadischargeoffire-armspointedagainstus.

ThenearestinhabitedvillagewasTelAswad,orKaraTuppeh,stillfardistant.Aswerodetowardsitinthedusk,oneortwowolveslazilystolefromthebrushwood,andjackalsandotherbeastsofpreyoccasionallycrossedourpath.WefoundtheKiayahseatedwithsometravellersrounda

blazingfire.Themiserablehutwassoonclearedofitsoccupants,andwepreparedtopassthenightaswebestcould.

TowardsdawntheKiayahbroughtuswordthattheGhazirhadsubsidedsufficientlytoallowustoford.Westartedunderhisguidance,andfoundthatthestream,althoughdividedintothreebranches,reachedinsomeplacesalmosttothebacksofthehorses.Safeover,westruckacrossthecountrytowardsNimroud,andreachedtheruinsasathickmorningmistwasgraduallywithdrawnfromtheloftymound.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Duringourabsence,anewchamberhadbeenopenedinthenorth-westpalace,tothesouthofthegreatcentrehall.Thewallswereofplain,sun-driedbrick,andtherewerenoremainsofsculpturedslabs,butintheearthandrubbishwhichhadfilledit,werediscoveredsomeofthemostinterestingrelicsobtainedfromtheruinsofAssyria.Adescriptionofitscontentsalonewilloccupyachapter.

CHAPTERVIII.

CONTENTSOFNEWLYDISCOVEREDCHAMBER.--AWELL.--LARGECOPPERCALDRONS.--BELLS,RINGS,ANDOTHEROBJECTSINMETAL.--TRIPODS.--CALDRONSANDLARGEVESSELS.--BRONZEBOWLS,CUPS,ANDDISHES.--DESCRIPTIONOFTHEEMBOSSINGSUPONTHEM.--ARMSANDARMOUR.--SHIELDS.--IRONINSTRUMENTS.--IVORYREMAINS.--BRONZECUBESINLAIDWITHGOLD.--GLASSBOWLS.--LENS.--THEROYALTHRONE.

Thenewlydiscoveredchamberwaspartofthenorth-westpalace,andadjoiningaroompreviouslyexplored.[72]Itsonlyentrancewastothewest,andalmostontheedgeofthemound.Itmust,consequently,haveopeneduponagalleryorterracerunningalongtheriverfrontofthe

building.Thewallswereofsun-driedbrick,panelledroundthebottomwithlargeburntbricks,aboutthreefeethigh,placedoneagainsttheother.Theywerecoatedwithbitumen,and,likethoseformingthepavement,wereinscribedwiththenameandusualtitlesoftheroyalfounderofthebuilding.Inonecorner,andpartlyinakindofrecess,wasawell,themouthofwhichwasformedbybrickworkaboutthreefeethigh.Itssideswerealsobrickeddowntotheconglomeraterock,andholeshadbeenleftatregularintervalsfordescent.Whenfirstdiscovereditwaschokedwithearth.Theworkmenemptiedituntiltheycame,atthedepthofnearlysixtyfeet,tobrackishwater.[73]

Thefirstobjectsfoundinthischamberweretwoplaincoppervesselsorcaldrons,about2-1/2feetindiameter,and3feetdeep,restingupona

standofbrickwork,withtheirmouthsclosedbylargetiles.Nearthemwasacopperjar,whichfelltopiecesalmostassoonasuncovered.Severalvasesofthesamemetal,thoughsmallerinsize,hadbeendugoutofotherpartsoftheruins;buttheywereempty,whilstthoseIamdescribingwerefilledwithcuriousrelics.Ifirsttookoutanumberofsmallbronzebells[74]withirontongues,andvarioussmallcopperornaments,somesuspendedtowires.Withthemwereaquantityoftaperingbronzerods,bentintoahook,andendinginakindoflip.Beneathwereseveralbronzecupsanddishes,whichIsucceededinremovingentire.Scatteredintheearthamongsttheseobjectswereseveralhundredstudsandbuttonsinmotherofpearlandivory,withmanysmallrosettesinmetal.

[Illustration:FeetofTripodsinBronzeandIron.]

Alltheobjectscontainedinthesecaldrons,withtheexceptionofthecupsanddishes,wereprobablyornamentsofhorseandchariotfurniture.

Beneaththecaldronswereheapedlions'andbulls'feetofbronze;andtheremainsofironringsandbars,probablypartsoftripods,orstands,forsupportingvesselsandbowls;which,astheironhadrustedaway,hadfallentopieces,leavingsuchpartsentireaswereinthemoredurablemetal.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Twoothercaldrons,foundfurtherwithinthechamber,contained,besidesseveralplatesanddishes,fourcrownshapedbronzeornaments,perhapsbelongingtoathroneorcouch;twolong,ornamentedbandsofcopper,roundedatbothends,apparentlybelts,suchaswerewornbywarriorsinarmour;agrotesqueheadinbronze,probablythetopofamace;ametalwine-strainerofelegantshape;variousmetalvesselsofpeculiarform,andabronzeornament,probablythehandleofadishorvase.

Eightmorecaldronsandjarswerefoundinotherpartsofthechamber.Onecontainedashesandbones,therestwereempty.Someofthelargervesselswerecrushedalmostflat,probablybythefallinginoftheupperpartofthebuilding.

Withthecaldronswerediscoveredtwocircularflatvessels,nearlysixfeetindiameter,andabouttwofeetdeep,whichIcanonlycomparewiththebrazenseathatstoodinthetempleofSolomon.[75]

Caldronsarefrequentlyrepresentedaspartofthespoilandtribute,inthesculpturesofNimroudandKouyunjik.Theyweresomuchvaluedbytheancientsthat,itappearsfromtheHomericpoems,theyweregivenasprizesatpublicgames,andwereconsideredamongstthemostpreciousobjectsthatcouldbecarriedawayfromacapturedcity.Theywerefrequentlyembossedwithflowersandotherornaments.Homerdeclaresonesoadornedtobeworthanox.[76]

Behindthecaldronswasaheapofcuriousandinterestingobjects.Inoneplacewerepiledwithoutorder,oneabovetheother,bronzecups,bowls,anddishesofvarioussizesandshapes.Theuppervesselshavingbeenmostexposedtodamp,themetalhadbeeneatenawaybyrust,andwascrumblingintofragments,orintoagreenpowder.Astheywereclearedaway,moreperfectspecimensweretakenout,until,nearthepavementofthechamber,somewerefoundalmostentire.Manyofthebowlsandplatesfittedsoclosely,onewithintheother,thattheyhaveonlybeendetachedinEngland.Itrequiredthegreatestcareandpatiencetoseparatethemfromthetenacioussoilinwhichtheywereembedded.

Althoughagreencrystalinedeposit,arisingfromthedecompositionofthe

metal,encrustedallthevessels,Icoulddistinguishuponmanyofthemtracesofembossedandengravedornaments.SincetheyhavebeeninEnglandtheyhavebeencarefullyandskilfullycleaned,andtheverybeautifulandelaboratedesignsuponthembroughttolight.

Thebronzeobjectsthusdiscoveredmaybeclassedunderfourheads--disheswithhandles,plates,deepbowls,andcups.Someareplain,othershaveasimplerosette,scarab,orstarinthecentre,andmanyaremostelaboratelyornamentedwiththefiguresofmenandanimals,andwithelegantfancydesigns,eitherembossedorincised.Theinside,andnottheoutside,ofthesevesselsisornamented.Theembossedfigureshavebeenraisedinthemetalbyabluntinstrument,threeorfourstrokesofwhichinmanyinstancesveryingeniouslyproducetheimageofananimal.Even

thoseornamentswhicharenotembossedbutincised,appeartohavebeenformedbyasimilarprocess,exceptthatthepunchwasappliedontheinside.Thetoolofthegraverhasbeensparinglyused.

ThemostinterestingdishesinthecollectionbroughttoEnglandare:--

No.1.,withmovingcircularhandle(thehandlewanting),securedbythreebosses;diameter10-3/4inches,depth2-1/4inches;dividedintotwofriezessurroundingacircularmedallioncontainingamaledeity_withbull'sears_(?)andhairinamplecurls[77],wearingbraceletsanda

7/31/2019 Ninevah


necklaceofanEgyptiancharacter,andashorttunic;thearmscrossed,andthehandsheldbytwo_Egyptians_(?),whoplacetheirotherhandsontheheadofthecentrefigure.TheinnerfriezecontainshorsemendrapedasEgyptians,gallopingroundinpairs;theouter,figuresalsowearingtheEgyptian"_shenti_"ortunic,huntinglionsonhorseback,onfoot,andinchariots.Thehairofthesefiguresisdressedafterafashion,whichprevailedinEgyptfromtheninthtotheeighthcenturyB.C.Eachfriezeisseparatedbyabandofguillocheornament.

No.2.,diameter10-1/2inches,havingalowrim,partlydestroyed;ornamentedwithanembossedrosetteofelegantshape,surroundedbythreefriezesofanimalsinhighrelief,dividedbyaguillocheband.Theouterfriezecontainstwelvewalkingbulls,designedwithconsiderablespirit;betweeneachisadwarfshrubortree.Thesecondfriezehasabull,awingedgriffin,anibex,andagazelle,walkingonebehindtheother,andthesameanimalsseizedbyleopardsorlions,inallfourteenfigures.Theinnerfriezecontainstwelvegazelles.Thehandleisformedbyaplainmovablering.Theornamentsonthisdish,aswellasthedesign,areofanAssyriancharacter.

No.3.,diameter10-3/4inches,and1-1/2inchdeep,witharaisedstarinthecentre;thehandleformedbytworings,workinginsocketsfastenedtoarim,runningaboutone-thirdroundthemargin,andsecuredbyfivenailsorbosses;fourbandsofembossedornamentsinlowreliefroundthe

centre,theouterbandconsistingofalternatestandingbullsandcrouchinglions,Assyrianincharacterandtreatment;theothers,ofanelegantpattern,slightlyvariedfromtheusualAssyrianborderbytheintroductionofafanlikeflowerintheplaceofthetulip.

Otherdisheswerefoundstillbetterpreservedthanthosejustdescribed,butperfectlyplain,orhavingonlyastar,moreorlesselaborate,embossedorengravedinthecentre.Manyfragmentswerealsodiscoveredwitheleganthandles,someformedbythefiguresoframsandbulls.

Oftheplatesthemostremarkableare:--

No.1.,shallow,and8-3/4inchesindiameter,thecentreslightlyraised

andincisedwithastarandfivebandsoftulip-shapedornaments;therestoccupiedbyfourgroups,eachconsistingoftwowingedhawk-headedsphinxes,wearingthe"pshent,"orcrownoftheupperandlowercountryofEgypt;onepawraised,andrestingupontheheadofamankneelingononeknee,andliftinghishandsintheactofadoration.Betweenthesphinxes,onacolumnintheformofapapyrus-sceptre,isthebustofafigurewearingonhisheadthesun'sdisc,withtheuræiserpents,acollarroundtheneck,andfourfeathers;abovearetwowingedglobeswiththeasps,andarowofbirds.EachgroupisinclosedbytwocolumnswithcapitalsintheformoftheAssyriantulipornament,andisseparatedfromthatadjoiningbyascarabwithout-spreadwings,raisingtheglobewithitsforefeet,andrestingwithitshindonapapyrus-sceptrepillar.Thisplateisingoodpreservation,havingbeenfoundattheverybottomofa

heapofsimilarrelics.

No.2.,depth,1-3/4in.;diameter,9-1/8in.,withabroad,raisedrim,likethatofasoupplate,embossedwithfiguresofgreyhoundspursuingahare.Thecentrecontainsafriezeinhighrelief,representingcombatsbetweenmenandlions,andasmallerborderofgazelles,betweenguillochebands,encirclinganembossedstar.Inthisveryfinespecimen,althoughthecostumesofthefiguresareEgyptianincharacter,thetreatmentanddesignareAssyrian.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


No.3.,shallow;9-1/2inchesdiameter;anovalinthecentre,coveredwithdottedlozenges,andsetwithninesilverbosses,probablyintendedtorepresentalakeorvalley,surroundedbyfourgroupsofhills,eachwiththreecrestsinhighrelief,onwhichareincisedinoutlinetreesandstags,wildgoats,bears,andleopards.Onthesidesofthehills,inrelief,aresimilarfiguresofanimals.Theouterrimisincisedwithtreesanddeer.TheworkmanshipofthisspecimenisAssyrian,andveryminuteandcurious.

No.4.,diameter,7-1/4inches,thecentreraised,andcontaininganeight-rayedstar,withsmallerstarsbetweeneachray,encircledbyaguillocheband.Theremainderoftheplateisdividedintoeightcompartments,byeightdouble-facedfiguresofEgyptiancharacterinhighrelief;betweeneachfigurearefiverowsofanimals,inclosedbyguillochebands;thefirstthreeconsistingofstagsandhinds,thefourthoflions,andthefifthofhares,eachcompartmentcontainingthirteenfigures.Averybeautifulspecimen,unfortunatelymuchinjured.

No.5.,diameter,8-3/4inches;depth,1-1/4inch.TheembossingsandornamentsonthisplateareofanEgyptiancharacter.Thecentreconsistsoffourheadsofthecow-earedgoddessAthor(?),forming,withlinesofbosses,aneight-rayedstar,surroundedbyhills,indicatedasinplateNo.3.,butfilledinwithrosettesandotherornaments.Betweenthehillsareincisedanimalsandtrees.Aborderoffigures,almostpurely

Egyptian,butunfortunatelyonlyinpartpreserved,encirclestheplate;thefirstremaininggroupisthatofamanseatedonathrone,beneathanornamentedarch,withtheEgyptianBaal,representedasonthecoinsofCossura,standingfullface;totherightofthisfigureisasquareornamentwithpendants(resemblingasealeddocument),andbeneathitthecruxansataorEgyptiansymboloflife.ThenextgroupisthatofawarriorinEgyptianattire,holdingamaceinhisrighthand,andinhisleftabowandarrow,withthehairofacaptiveofsmallerproportions,whocrouchesbeforehim.ThenextgrouprepresentstheEgyptianBaal(?),withalion'sskinroundhisbody,andplumesonhishead,havingoneachsideanEgyptianfigurewearingthe"_shent_,"orshorttunic,carryingabow,andpluckingtheplumesfromtheheadofthegod,perhapssymbolicalofthevictoryofHorusoverTyphon.TheEgyptiangodAmon,bearingabird

inonehandandafalchionintheother,withfemalefiguressimilartothatlastdescribed,appearstoformthenextgroup;butunfortunatelythispartoftheplatehasbeennearlydestroyed:thewholeborder,however,appearstohaverepresentedamixtureofreligiousandhistoricalscenes.

No.6.,diameter,6in.;depth,1-1/2in.;aprojectingrim,ornamentedwithfiguresofvultureswithout-spreadwings;anembossedrosette,encircledbytworowsoffan-shapedflowersandguillochebands,occupiesaraisedcentre,whichissurroundedbyafrieze,consistingofgroupsoftwovulturesdevouringahare.Ahighlyfinishedandverybeautifulspecimen.Onthebackofthisplatearefiveletters,eitherinthePhoenicianorAssyriancursivecharacter.

Nos.7.and8.;coveredwithgroupsofsmallstags,surroundinganelaboratestar,oneplatecontainingabove600figures;theanimalsareformedbythreeblowsfromabluntinstrumentorpunch.Theseplatesareornamentedwithsmallbossesofsilverandgoldletintothecopper.

No.9.,diameter,7-5/8inches;depth,1-1/2inch,offineworkmanship;thecentreformedbyanincisedstar,surroundedbyguillocheandtulipbands.Fourgroupsonthesidesrepresentingalion,lurkingamongstpapyriorreeds,andabouttospringonabull.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


No.10.,diameter7-1/2inches.Inthecentreawingedscarabraisingthediscofthesun,surroundedbyguillocheandtulipbands,andbyadoublefrieze,theinnerconsistingoftrees,deer,wingeduræi,sphinxes,andpapyrusplants;theouter,ofwingedscarabs,flyingserpents,deer,andtrees,allincised.

Theplatesabovedescribedarethemostinterestingspecimensbroughttothiscountry:thereareothers,indeed,scarcelylessremarkableforbeautyofworkmanship,or,whenplainorornamentedwithasimplestarinthecentre,foreleganceofform.Oftheseventeendeepbowlsdiscovered,onlythreehaveembossings,sufficientlywellpreserved,tobedescribed;thegreaterpartappeartobeperfectlyplain.Themostremarkableis8-1/2inchesindiameter,and3-3/4inchesdeep,andhasatthebottom,inthecentre,anembossedstar,surroundedbyarosette,andonthesidesahuntingsceneinboldrelief.

Asecond,7-1/2inchesindiameter,and3-3/4inchesdeep,hasinthecentreamedallionsimilartothatintheonelastdescribed,andonthesides,inveryhighrelief,twolionsandtwosphinxesofEgyptiancharacter,wearingacollar,feathers,andhousings,andahead-dressformedbyadiscwithtwouræi.Bothbowlsareremarkablefortheboldnessofthereliefandthearchaictreatmentofthefigures,inthisrespectresemblingtheivoriespreviouslydiscoveredatNimroud.Theyforcibly

calltomindtheearlyremainsofGreece,andespeciallythemetalwork,andpaintedpotteryfoundinveryancienttombsinEtruria,whichtheysocloselyresemblenotonlyindesignbutinsubject,thesamemythicanimalsandthesameornamentsbeingintroduced,thatwecannotbutattributetoboththesameorigin.Thethird,7-3/4inchesindiameter,and2-1/2inchesdeep,hasinthecentreastarformedbytheEgyptianhawkofthesun,bearingthedisc,andhavingatitssideawhip,betweentworaysendinginlotusflowers;onthesidesareembossedfiguresofwildgoats,lotus-shapedshrubs,anddwarftreesofpeculiarform.

Ofthecupsthemostremarkableare:--

No.1.,diameter5-5/8inches,and2-1/4inchesdeep,veryelaborately

ornamentedwithfiguresofanimals,interlacedandgroupedtogetherinsingularconfusion,coveringthewholeinnersurface;apparentlyrepresentingacombatbetweengriffinsandlions;averycuriousandinterestingspecimen,notunlikesomeoftheItalianchasingofthecinquecento.No.2.,afragment,embossedwiththefiguresoflionsandbulls,ofveryfineworkmanship.

Oftheremainingcupsmanyareplainbutofelegantshape,oneortwoareribbed,andsomehavesimplyanembossedstarinthecentre.

About150bronzevesselsdiscoveredinthischamberarenowintheBritishMuseum,withoutincludingnumerousfragments,which,althoughshowingtracesofornament,aretoofardestroyedbydecompositiontobecleaned.

Themetalofthedishes,bowls,andrings,hasbeencarefullyanalysed,andhasbeenfoundtocontainonepartoftintotenofcopper,beingexactlytherelativeproportionsofthebestancientandmodernbronze.Thebells,however,havefourteenpercent.oftin,showingthattheAssyrianswerewellawareoftheeffectproducedbychangingtheproportionsofthemetals.Thesetwofactsshowtheadvancemadebytheminthemetallurgicart.

Theeffectofageanddecayhasbeentocoverthesurfaceofallthese

7/31/2019 Ninevah


bronzeobjectswithacoatingofbeautifulcrystalsofmalachite,beneathwhichthecomponentsubstanceshavebeenconvertedintosuboxideofcopperandperoxideoftin,leavinginmanyinstancesnotraceswhateverofthemetals.

ItwouldappearthattheAssyrianswereunabletogiveelegantformsorapleasingappearancetoobjectsinironalone,andthatconsequentlytheyfrequentlyoverlaidthatmetalwithbronze,eitherentirely,orpartially,bywayofornament.Thefeetoftheringtripodspreviouslydescribed,furnishhighlyinterestingspecimensofthisprocess,andprovetheprogressmadebytheAssyriansinit.Theironinclosedwithinthecopperhasnotbeenexposedtothesamedecayasthatdetachedfromit,andwillstilltakeapolish.

ThetinwasprobablyobtainedfromPhoenicia;andconsequentlythatusedinthebronzesoftheBritishMuseummayactuallyhavebeenexported,nearlythreethousandyearsago,fromtheBritishIsles!WefindtheAssyriansandBabyloniansmakinganextensiveuseofthismetal,whichwasprobablyoneofthechiefarticlesoftradesuppliedbythecitiesoftheSyriancoast,whoseseamensoughtforitonthedistantshoresoftheAtlantic.

TheembossedandengravedvesselsfromNimroudaffordmanyinterestingillustrationsoftheprogressmadebytheancientsinmetallurgy.Fromthe

Egyptiancharacterofthedesigns,andespeciallyofthedraperyofthefigures,inseveralofthespecimens,itmaybeinferredthatsomeofthemwerenotAssyrian,buthadbeenbroughtfromaforeignpeople.Asintheivories,however,theworkmanship,subjects,andmodeoftreatmentaremoreAssyrianthanEgyptian,andseemtoshowthattheartisteithercopiedfromEgyptianmodels,orwasanativeofacountryundertheinfluenceoftheartsandtasteofEgypt.TheSidonians,andotherinhabitantsofthePhoeniciancoast,werethemostrenownedworkersinmetaloftheancientworld.IntheHomericpoemstheyarefrequentlymentionedastheartificerswhofashionedandembossedmetalcupsandbowls,andSolomonsoughtcunningmenfromTyretomakethegoldandbrazenutensilsforhistempleandpalaces.[78]Itis,therefore,notimpossiblethatthevesselsdiscoveredatNimroudweretheworkof

Phoenicianartists,broughtexpresslyfromTyre,orcarriedawayamongstthecaptiveswhentheircitiesweretakenbytheAssyrians,who,weknowfrommanypassagesintheBible[79],alwayssecuredthesmithsandartisans,andplacedthemintheirownimmediatedominions.Theymayhavebeenusedforsacrificialpurposes,atroyalbanquets,orwhenthekingperformedcertainreligiousceremonies,forinthebas-reliefsheisfrequentlyrepresentedonsuchoccasionswithacuporbowlinhishand;ortheymayhaveformedpartofthespoilofsomeSyriannation,placedinatempleatNineveh,astheholyutensilsoftheJews,afterthedestructionofthesanctuary,werekeptinthetempleofBabylon.[80]Itisnot,indeed,impossible,thatsomeofthemmayhavebeenactuallybroughtfromthecitiesroundJerusalembySennacheribhimself,orfromSamariabyShalmaneserorSargon,who,wefind,inhabitedthepalaceat

Nimroud,andofwhomseveralrelicshavealreadybeendiscoveredintheruins.

AroundthevesselsIhavedescribedwereheapedarms,remainsofarmour,ironinstruments,glassbowls,andvariousobjectsinivoryandbronze.Thearmsconsistedofswords,daggers,shields,andtheheadsofspearsandarrows,whichbeingchieflyofironfelltopiecesalmostassoonasexposedtotheair.Theshieldsareofbronze,andcircular,therimbendinginwards,andformingadeepgrooveroundtheedge.Thehandlesareofiron,andfastenedbysixbossesornails,theheadsofwhichforman

7/31/2019 Ninevah


ornamentontheouterfaceoftheshield.[81]Thediameterofthelargestandmostperfectistwofeetsixinches.Althoughtheirweightmusthaveimpededthemovementsofanarmedwarrior,theAssyrianspearmenareconstantlyrepresentedinthebas-reliefswiththem.Such,too,wereprobablythebucklersthatSolomonhungonhistowers.[82]

Anumberofthinironrods,adheringtogetherinbundles,werefoundamongstthearms.Theymayhavebeentheshaftsofarrows,which,ithasbeenconjecturedfromseveralpassagesintheOldTestament,weresometimesofburnishedmetal.To"makebrightthearrows"[83]may,however,onlyalludetotheheadfastenedtoareed,orshaftofsomelightwood.Thearmourconsistedofpartsofbreast-plates(?)andofotherfragments,embossedwithfiguresandornaments.

Amongsttheironinstrumentsweretheheadofapick,adouble-handledsaw(about3feet6inchesinlength),severalobjectsresemblingtheheadsofsledge-hammers,andalargebluntspear-head,suchaswefindfromthesculptureswereusedduringsiegestoforcestonesfromthewallsofbesiegedcities.

Themostinterestingoftheivoryrelicswere,acarvedstaff,perhapsaroyalsceptre,partofwhichhasbeenpreserved,althoughinthelaststageofdecay;andseveralentireelephants'tusks,thelargestbeingabout2feet5incheslong.

Theivorycouldwithdifficultybedetachedfromtheearthinwhichitwasimbedded.Itfelltosmallfragments,andeventodust,almostassoonasexposedtotheair.Ihavedescribedelsewhere[84]thefrequentuseofivoryfortheadornmentofancientEasternpalacesandtemples,aswellasforthronesandfurniture.Ezekielincludes"hornsofivory"amongsttheobjectsbroughttoTyrefromDedan,andtheAssyriansmayhaveobtainedtheirsuppliesfromthesamecountry,whichsomebelievetohavebeeninthePersianGulf.[85]

Amongstvarioussmallobjectsinbronzeweretwocubes,eachhavingononefacethefigureofascarabwithoutstretchedwings,inlaidingold;veryinterestingspecimens,andprobablyamongsttheearliestknown,ofanart

carriedinmoderntimestogreatperfectionintheEast.

Twoentireglassbowls,withfragmentsofothers,werealsofoundinthischamber;theglass,likeallthatfromtheruins,iscoveredwithpearlyscales,which,onbeingremoved,leaveprismaticopal-likecolorsofthegreatestbrilliancy,showing,underdifferentlights,themostvariedandbeautifultints.OnthishighlyinterestingrelicisthenameofSargon,withhistitleofkingofAssyria,incuneiformcharacters,andthefigureofalion.Weare,therefore,abletofixitsdatetothelatterpartoftheseventhcenturyB.C.Itis,consequently,themostancientknownspecimenof_transparent_glass,nonefromEgyptbeing,itisbelieved,earlierthanthetimeofthePsamettici(theendofthesixthorbeginningofthefifthcenturyB.C.).Opaquecoloredglasswas,however,

manufacturedatamuchearlierperiod,andsomeexistsofthefifteenthcenturyB.C.TheSargonvasewasblowninonesolidpiece,andthenshapedandhollowedoutbyaturning-machine,ofwhichthemarksarestillplainlyvisible.Withitwerefound,itwillberemembered,twolargervasesinwhitealabaster,inscribedwiththenameofthesameking.Theywereallprobablyusedforholdingsomeointmentorcosmetic.[86]

Withtheglassbowlswasdiscoveredarock-crystallens,withoppositeconvexandplanefaces.ItspropertiescouldscarcelyhavebeenunknowntotheAssyrians,andwehaveconsequentlytheearliestspecimenofa

7/31/2019 Ninevah


magnifyingandburning-glass.Itwasburiedbeneathaheapoffragmentsofbeautifulblueopaqueglass,apparentlytheenamelofsomeobjectinivoryorwood,whichhadperished.

Inthefurthercornerofthechamber,tothelefthand,stoodtheroyalthrone.Althoughitwasutterlyimpossible,fromthecompletestateofdecayofthematerials,topreserveanypartofitentire,Iwasable,bycarefullyremovingtheearth,toascertainthatitresembledinshapethechairofstateoftheking,asseeninthesculpturesofKouyunjikandKhorsabad,andparticularlythatrepresentedinthebas-reliefalreadydescribed,ofSennacheribreceivingthecaptivesandspoil,aftertheconquestofthecityofLachish.[87]Withtheexceptionofthelegs,whichappeartohavebeenpartlyofivory,itwasofwood,casedoroverlaidwithbronze,asthethroneofSolomonwasofivory,overlaidwithgold.[88]Themetalwasmostelaboratelyengravedandembossedwithsymbolicalfiguresandornaments,likethoseembroideredontherobesoftheearlyNimroudking,suchaswingeddeitiesstrugglingwithgriffins,mythicanimals,menbeforethesacredtree,andthewingedlionandbull.Asthewoodworkoverwhichthebronzewasfastenedbymeansofsmallnailsofthesamematerial,hadrottedaway,thethronefelltopieces,butthemetalcasingwaspartlypreserved.Thelegswereadornedwithlion'spawsrestingonapine-shapedornament,likethethronesofthelaterAssyriansculptures,andstoodonabronzebase.Arodwithlooserings,towhichwasoncehungembroidereddrapery,orsomerichstuff,appearstohave

belongedtothebackofthechair,ortoaframe-workraisedaboveorbehindit.

Infrontofthethronewasthefoot-stool,alsoofwoodoverlaidwithembossedmetal,andadornedwiththeheadsoframsorbulls.Thefeetendedinlion'spawsandpinecones,likethoseofthethrone.Thetwopiecesoffurnituremayhavebeenplacedtogetherinatempleasanofferingtothegods,asMidasplacedhisthroneinthetempleofDelphi.[89]TheornamentsonthemweresopurelyAssyrian,thattherecanbelittledoubtoftheirhavingbeenexpresslymadefortheAssyrianking,andnothavingbeenthespoilofsomeforeignnation.

Such,withanalabasterjar,andafewotherobjectsinmetal,werethe

relicsfoundinthenewly-openedroom.AftertheexaminationIhadmadeofthebuildingduringmyformerexcavations,thisaccidentaldiscoveryprovesthatothertreasuresmaystillexistinthemoundofNimroud,andincreasesmyregretthatmeanswerenotatmycommandtoremovetherubbishfromthecentreoftheotherchambersinthepalace.

CHAPTERIX.

VISITTOTHEWINGEDLIONSBYNIGHT.--THEBITUMENSPRINGS.--REMOVALOFTHEWINGEDLIONSTOTHERIVER.--FLOODSATNIMROUD.--YEZIDIMARRIAGE

FESTIVAL.--BAAZANI.--VISITTOBAVIAN.--SITEOFTHEBATTLEOFARBELA.--DESCRIPTIONOFROOKSCULPTURES.--INSCRIPTIONS.--THESHABBAKS.

Bythe28thofJanuary,thecolossallionsformingtheportaltothegreathallinthenorth-westpalaceofNimroudwerereadytobedraggedtotheriver-bank.Thewallsandtheirsculpturedpanellinghadbeenremovedfrombothsidesofthem,andtheystoodisolatedinthemidstoftheruins.Werodeonecalmcloudlessnighttothemound,tolookonthemforthelasttimebeforetheyweretakenfromtheiroldresting-places.Themoonwasat

7/31/2019 Ninevah


herfull,andaswedrewnightotheedgeofthedeepwallofearthrisingaroundthem,hersoftlightwascreepingoverthesternfeaturesofthehumanheads,anddrivingbeforeitthedarkshadowswhichstillclothedthelionforms.Onebyonethelimbsofthegiganticsphinxesemergedfromthegloom,untilthemonsterswereunveiledbeforeus.Ishallneverforgetthatnight,ortheemotionswhichthosevenerablefigurescausedwithinme.Afewhoursmoreandtheyweretostandnolongerwheretheyhadstoodunscathedamidstthewreckofmanandhisworksforages.Itseemedalmostsacrilegetotearthemfromtheiroldhauntstomakethemamerewonder-stocktothebusycrowdofanewworld.Theywerebettersuitedtothedesolationaroundthem;fortheyhadguardedthepalaceinitsglory,anditwasforthemtowatchoveritinitsruin.SheikhAbd-ur-Rahman,whohadriddenwithustothemound,wastroubledwithnosuchreflections.Hegazedlistlesslyatthegrimimages,wonderedatthefollyoftheFranks,thoughtthenightcold,andturnedhismaretowardshistents.Wescarcelyheededhisgoing,butstoodspeechlessinthedesertedportal,untiltheshadowsagainbegantocreepoveritshoaryguardians.

Beyondtheruinedpalacesascenescarcelylesssolemnawaitedus.IhadsentapartyofJebourstothebitumensprings,outsidethewallstotheeastoftheinclosure.TheArabshavinglightedasmallfirewithbrushwood,awaitedourcomingtothrowtheburningsticksuponthepitchypools.Athickheavysmokerolledupwardsincurlingvolumes,hidingthe

lightofthemoon,andspreadingwideoverthesky.Tonguesofflameandjetsofgas,drivenfromtheburningpit,shotthroughthemurkycanopy.Asthefirebrightened,athousandfantasticformsoflightplayedamidstthesmoke.Tobreakthecinderedcrust,andtobringfreshslimetothesurface,theArabsthrewlargestonesintothesprings;anewvolumeoffirethenburstforth,throwingadeepredglareuponthefiguresanduponthelandscape.TheJeboursdancedroundtheburningpools,likedemonsinsomemidnightorgie,shoutingtheirwar-cry,andbrandishingtheirglitteringarms.Inanhourthebitumenwasexhaustedforthetime,thedensesmokegraduallydiedaway,andthepalelightofthemoonagainshoneovertheblackslimepits.

Thecolossallionsweremovedbystillsimplerandrudermeansthanthose

adoptedonmyfirstexpedition.Theyweretiltedoveruponlooseearthheapedbehindthem,theirtoorapiddescentbeingcheckedbyahawser,whichwasafterwardsreplacedbypropsofwoodandstone.Theywerethenlowered,byleversandjackscrews,uponthecartbroughtunderthem.Aroadpavedwithflatstoneshadbeenmadetotheedgeofthemound,andthesculpturewas,withoutdifficulty,draggedfromthetrenches.

Owingtorecentheavyrains,whichhadleftinmanyplacesdeepswamps,weexperiencedmuchdifficultyindraggingthecartovertheplaintotheriverside.Threedayswerespentintransportingeachlion.Theunwieldymasswaspropelledfrombehindbyenormousleversofpoplarwood;andinthecostumesofthosewhoworked,aswellasinthemeansadoptedtomovethecolossalsculptures,exceptthatweusedawheeledcartinsteadofa

sledge,theprocessioncloselyresembledthatwhichindaysofyoretransportedthesamegreatfigures,andwhichweseesographicallyrepresentedonthewallsofKouyunjik.Astheyhadbeenbroughtsoweretheytakenaway.

ItwasnecessarytohumorandexcitetheArabstoinducethemtopersevereinthearduousworkofdraggingthecartthroughthedeepsoftsoilintowhichitcontinuallysank.Atonetime,aftermanyvaineffortstomovetheburiedwheels,itwasunanimouslydeclaredthatMr.Cooper,theartist,broughtillluck,andnoonewouldworkuntilheretired.The

7/31/2019 Ninevah


cumbrousmachinecreptonwardsforafewmoreyards,butagainallexertionswerefruitless.ThentheFrankladywouldbringgoodfortuneifshesatonthesculpture.Thewheelsrolledheavilyalong,butweresooncloggedoncemoreintheyieldingsoil.Anevileyesurelylurkedamongtheworkmenorthebystanders.Searchwasquicklymade,andonehavingbeendetecteduponwhomthiscursehadalighted,hewasignominiouslydrivenawaywithshoutsandexecrations.Thisimpedimenthavingbeenremoved,thecartdrewnearertothevillage,butsoonagaincametoastandstill.AlltheSheikhswerenowsummarilydegradedfromtheirrankandhonors,andaweakraggedboyhavingbeendressedupintawdrykerchiefs,andinvestedwithacloak,waspronouncedbyHormuzdtobetheonlyfitchiefforsuchpunymen.Thecartmovedforwards,untiltheropesgaveway,underthenewexcitementcausedbythisreflectionuponthecharacteroftheArabs.Whenthathadsubsided,andthepresenceoftheyouthfulSheikhnolongerencouragedhissubjects,hewasassummarilydeposedashehadbeenelected,andagreybeardofninetywasraisedtothedignityinhisstead.Hehadhisturn;thenthemostunpopularoftheSheikhswerecompelledtoliedownontheground,thatthegroaningwheelsmightpassoverthem,likethecarofJuggernautoveritsvotaries.Withyells,shrieks,andwildanticsthecartwasdrawnwithinafewinchesoftheprostratemen.AsalastresourceIseizedaropemyself,andwithshoutsofdefiancebetweenthedifferenttribes,whoweredividedintoseparatepartiesandpulledagainsteachother,andamidstthedeafening _tahlel_ofthewomen,thelionwasatlengthfairlybroughttothe

water'sedge.ThewinterrainshadnotyetswelledthewatersoftheriversoastoenablearaftbearingaveryheavycargotofloatwithsafetytoBaghdad.ItwasnotuntilthemonthofApril,afterIhadleftMosulonmyjourneytotheKhabour,thatthefloods,fromthemeltingofthesnowsinthehighermountainsofKurdistan,sweptdownthevalleyoftheTigris.IwasconsequentlyobligedtoconfidethetaskofembarkingthesculpturestoBehnan,myprincipaloverseer,aMosuleeanstonecutterofconsiderableskillandexperience,Mr.Vice-consulRassamkindlyundertakingtosuperintendtheoperation.Owingtoextraordinarystormsinthehills,theriverrosesuddenlyandwithunexampledrapidity.TheJaifwasonevastsea,andafuriouswinddrovethewavesagainstthefootofthe

mound.TheArabshadneverseenasimilarinundation,andbeforetheycouldescapetothehighlandmanypersonswereoverwhelmedinthewaters.

Whenthefloodhadsubsided,thelionsontheriverbank,thoughcoveredwithmudandsilt,werefounduninjured.Theywerespeedilyplacedontheraftspreparedforthem,butunfortunatelyduringtheoperationoneofthem,whichhadpreviouslybeencrackednearlyacross,separatedintotwoparts.Bothsculpturesweredoomedtomisfortune.Someperson,uncoveringtheotherduringthenight,brokethenose.Iwasunabletodiscovertheauthorofthiswantonmischief.Hewasprobablyastranger,whohadsomefeudwiththeArabsworkingintheexcavations.[90]

TheraftsreachedBaghdadinsafety.Afterreceivingthenecessaryrepairs

theyfloatedonwardstoBusrah;andalthoughtheyencounteredseveralseriousdangersandmishaps,theyfinallyreachedEngland.

DuringmyhastyvisitintheautumntoBavian,Ihadbeenunableeithertoexaminetherock-tabletswithsufficientcare,ortocopytheinscriptions.Thelionshavingbeenmoved,Iseizedthefirstleisuremomenttoreturntothoseremarkablemonuments.

CawalYusufhavinginvitedmetothemarriageofhisnieceatBaashiekhah,weleftNimroudearlyinthemorningforthatvillage.TheCawal,followed

7/31/2019 Ninevah


bytheprincipalinhabitantsonhorseback,andbyalargeconcourseofpeopleonfoot,accompaniedbymusic,andbychildrenbringinglambsasofferings,metusnotfarfromthevillage.Itwasalreadytheseconddayofthemarriage.Onthepreviousdaythepartieshadenteredintothecontractbeforetheusualwitnesses,amidstrejoicinganddances.Afterourarrival,thebridewasledtothehouseofthebridegroom,surroundedbytheinhabitants,dressedintheirgayestrobes,andbytheCawalsplayingontheirinstrumentsofmusic.Shewascoveredfromheadtofootbyathickveil,andwaskeptbehindacurtaininthecornerofadarkenedroom.Heresheremaineduntiltheguestshadfeastedthreedays,afterwhichthebridegroomwasallowedtoapproachher.

Thecourtyardofthehousewasfilledwithdancers,andduringthedayandthegreaterpartofthenight,nothingwasheardbuttheloudsignsofrejoicingofthewomen,andthenoiseofthedrumandthepipe.

Onthethirddaythebridegroomwassoughtearlyinthemorning,andledintriumphbyhisfriendsfromhousetohouse,receivingateachatriflingpresent.Hewasthenplacedwithinacircleofdancers,andtheguestsandbystanders,wettingsmallcoins,stuckthemonhisforehead.Themoneywascollectedasitfell,inanopenkerchiefheldbyhiscompanionsunderhischin.

Afterthisceremonyapartyofyoungmen,whohadattachedthemselvesto

thebridegroom,rushedintothecrowd,andcarryingoffthemostwealthyoftheguests,lockedthemupinadarkroomuntiltheyconsentedtopayaransomfortheirrelease.Themoneythuscollectedwasaddedtothedowryofthenewlymarriedcouple.

LeavingtherevellersIrodetoBaazaniwithCawalYusuf,SheikhJindi(thesternleaderofthereligiousceremoniesatSheikhAdi),andafewYezidinotables,toexaminetherockyvalleysbehindthevillage.IoncemoresearchedinvainforsometracesofancientquarriesfromwhencetheAssyriansmighthaveobtainedtheslabsusedintheirbuildings.Attheentranceofoneofthedeepravines,whichrunsintotheGebelMakloub,aclearspringgushesfromagrottointhehill-side.TraditionsaysthatthisisthecaveoftheSevenSleepersandtheirDog,andtheYezidishave

madethespota_ziareh_,orplaceofpilgrimage.[91]

Arideofsevenhoursbroughtustothefootofthehigherlimestonerange,andtothemouthoftheravinecontainingtherock-sculptures.BavianisamereKurdishhamletoffiveorsixmiserablehutsontheleftbankoftheGhazir.WestoppedatthelargervillageofKhinnis;thetwobeingscarcelyhalfamileapart,theplaceisusuallycalled"Khinnis-Bavian."TheArabpopulationceaseswiththeplains,thevillagesinthehillsbeinginhabitedbyKurds,andincludedinthedistrictofMissouri.AdjoiningistheYezididistrictofSheikhan.

Therock-sculpturesofBavianarethemostimportantthathaveyetbeendiscoveredinAssyria.[92]Theyarecarvedinreliefonthesideofa

narrow,rockyravine,ontherightbankoftheGomel,abrawlingmountaintorrentissuingfromtheMissourihills,andoneoftheprincipalfeedersofthesmallriverGhazir,theancientBumadus.TheGomelorGomelamay,perhaps,betracedintheancientnameofGaugamela,celebratedforthatgreatvictorywhichgavetotheMacedonianconquerorthedominionoftheEasternworld.Althoughthebattle-fieldwascalledafterArbela,aneighbouringcity,weknowthattheriverZabintervenedbetweenthem,andthatthebattlewasfoughtnearthevillageofGaugamela,onthebanksoftheBumadusorGhazir,theGomelaoftheKurds.Itisremarkablethattraditionhasnotpreservedanyrecordoftheprecisesceneofanevent

7/31/2019 Ninevah


whichsomateriallyaffectedthedestiniesoftheEast.Thehistoryofthisgreatbattleisunknowntothepresentinhabitantsofthecountry;nordoesanylocalname,exceptperhapsthatwhichIhavepointedout,servetoconnectitwiththeseplains.Thebattle-fieldwasprobablyintheneighbourhoodofTelAswad,orbetweenitandthejunctionoftheGhazirwiththeZab,onthedirectlineofmarchtothefordsofthatriver.WehadundoubtedlycrossedtheveryspotduringourridetoBavian.ThewholeofthecountrybetweentheMakloubrangeandtheTigrisisequallywellsuitedtotheoperationsofmightyarmies,butfromthescantytopographicaldetailsgivenbythehistoriansofAlexander,weareunabletoidentifytheexactplaceofhisvictory.ItiscuriousthathithertonoremainsorrelicshavebeenturnedupbytheploughwhichwouldservetomarktheprecisesiteofsogreatabattleasthatofArbela.

Theprincipalrock-tabletatBaviancontainsfourfigures,sculpturedinreliefuponthesmoothedfaceofalimestonecliff,risingperpendicularlyfromthebedofthetorrent.Theyareinclosedbyakindofframe28feethighby30feetwide,andareprotectedbyanoverhangingcornicefromthewaterwhichtricklesdownthefaceoftheprecipice.Twodeities,facingeachother,arerepresented,astheyfrequentlyareonmonumentsandrelicsofthesameperiod,standingonmythicanimalsresemblingdogs.Theywearthehighsquarehead-dress,withhornsunitinginfront,peculiartothehuman-headedbullsofthelaterAssyrianpalaces.One

holdsinthelefthandakindofstaffsurmountedbythesacredtree.Tothecentreofthisstaffisattachedaringencirclingafigure,probablythatoftheking.Theotherhandisstretchedforthtowardstheoppositegod,whocarriesasimilarstaff,andgraspsintherighthandanobjectwhichistoomuchinjuredtobeaccuratelydescribed.ThesetwofiguresmayrepresentbutoneandthesamegreattutelarydeityoftheAssyrians,asthetwokingswhostandinactofadorationbeforethemareundoubtedlybutoneandthesameking.Themonarch,thusdoublyportrayed,isbehindthegod.Heraisesonehand,andholdsintheotherthesacredmace,endinginaball.HisdressresemblesthatofthebuilderoftheKouyunjikpalace,Sennacherib,withwhomtheinscriptionsIshallpresentlydescribe,identifyhim.

Thisbas-reliefhassufferedgreatlyfromtheeffectsoftheatmosphere,andinmanypartsthedetailscannolongerbedistinguished.ButtheyhavebeenstillmoreinjuredbythosewhooccupiedthecountryafterthefalloftheAssyrianempire.Strangers,havingnoreverencefortherecordsorsacredmonumentsofthosewhowentbeforethem,excavatedintheready-scarpedrocksthesepulchralchambersoftheirdead.[93]Inthisgreattablettherearefoursuchtombs.IenteredthembymeansofaropeloweredfromabovebyapartyofKurds.Theywereempty,theircontentshaving,ofcourse,beenlongbeforecarriedaway,ordestroyed.

Totheleftofthisgreatbas-relief,andnearerthemouthoftheravine,isasecondtabletcontainingahorsemanatfullspeed,andtheremainsofotherfigures.Bothhorseandriderareofcolossalproportions,and

remarkableforthespiritoftheoutline.ThewarriorwearstheAssyrianpointedhelmet,andcouchesalongponderousspear,asintheactofchargingtheenemy.Beforehimisacolossalfigureoftheking,andbehindhimadeitywithahornedcap;abovehisheadarowofsmallerfiguresofgodsstandingonanimalsofvariousforms,asintherock-sculpturesofMalthaiyah.

Thisfinebas-reliefhas,unfortunately,sufferedevenmorethantheothermonumentsfromtheeffectsoftheatmosphere,andwouldeasilyescapenoticewithoutanacquaintancewithitsposition.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Scatteredoverthecliff,oneachsideoftheprincipalbas-reliefs,areelevensmalltablets,someeasilyaccessible,otherssohighuponthefaceoftheprecipice,thattheyarescarcelyseenfrombelow.Oneisonalevelwiththebedofthestream,andwas,indeed,almostcoveredbythemuddepositofthefloods.Eacharchedrecess,fortheyarecutintotherock,containsafigureoftheking,asattheNahr-el-Kelb,nearBeyroutinSyria[94],5feet6incheshigh.Abovehisheadarethesacredsymbols,arrangedinfourdistinctgroups.Thefirstgroupconsistsofthreetiaras,likethosewornbythegodsandhuman-headedbulls,andofakindofaltaronwhichstandsastaffendingintheheadofaram;thesecondofacrescentandofthewingeddisk,orglobe;thethirdofapedestal,onwhichareatridentandthreestaffs,onetoppedbyacone,anotherwithoutornament,andthelastendingintwobulls'headsturnedinoppositedirections;andthefourthofaMaltesecross(?symbolicalofthesun)andthesevenstars.Someofthesesymbolshavereference,itwouldseem,totheastralworshipoftheAssyrians;whilstothers,probably,representinstrumentsusedduringsacrifices,orsacredceremonies.

Acrossthreeoftheseroyaltabletsareinscriptions.Onecanbereachedfromthefootofthecliff,theothers,beingonthehighersculptures,cannotbeseenfrombelow.Theyareallmoreorlessinjured,butbeingverynearly,wordforword,thesame,theycantosomeextentberestored.

Iwasloweredbyropestothoseonthefaceoftheprecipice,whicharenototherwiseaccessible.Standingonaledgescarcelysixincheswide,overlookingagiddydepth,andinaconstrainedandpainfulposition,Ihadsomedifficultyincopyingthem.Thestupidityandclumsiness,moreover,oftheKurds,whohadneveraidedinsuchproceedingsbefore,renderedmyattemptstoreachthesculpturessomewhatdangerous.

Theinscriptions,thelongestofwhichcontainssixty-threelines,areinmanyrespectsofconsiderableimportance,andhavebeenpartlytranslatedbyDr.Hincks.TheycommencewithaninvocationtoAshurandthegreatdeitiesofAssyria,thenamesofonlyelevenofwhomarelegible,althoughprobablythewholethirteenareenumerated,asonthemonumentsfromNimroud.ThenfollowthenameandtitlesofSennacherib.Nextthereisan

accountofvariousgreatworksforirrigationundertakenbythisking.Fromeighteendistricts,orvillages,hedeclareshedugeighteencanalstotheUssurorKhusur(?),inwhichhecollectedtheirwaters.Healsodugacanal,fromthebordersofthetownordistrictofKisritoNineveh,andbroughtthesewatersthroughit;hecalleditthecanalofSennacherib.

AlongobscurepassageprecedesaverydetailedaccountoftheexpeditiontoBabylonandKar-DuniyasagainstMerodach-baladan,recordedunderthefirstyearoftheannalsontheKouyunjikbulls.[95]AftermentioningsomecanalswhichhehadmadeinthesouthofAssyria,SennacheribspeaksofthearmywhichdefendedtheworkmenbeingattackedbythekingofElamandthekingofBabylon,withmanykingsofthehillsandtheplainswhowere

theirallies.HedefeatedthemintheneighbourhoodofKhalul(siteundetermined).ManyofthegreatpeopleofthekingofElamandthesonofthekingofKar-Duniyaswereeitherkilledortakenprisoners,whilethekingsthemselvesfledtotheirrespectivecountries.SennacheribthenmentionshisadvancetoBabylon,hisconquestandplunderofit,andconcludeswithsaying,thathebroughtbackfromthatcitytheimagesofthegodswhichhadbeentakenby_Merodach-adakhe_(?),thekingofMesopotamia,fromAssyria418yearsbefore,andputthemintheirplaces.

Now,theimportanceofthisinscription,presumingittobecorrectly

7/31/2019 Ninevah


interpreted,willatoncebeperceived,foritprovesalmostbeyondadoubt,thatatthatremoteperiodtheAssyrianskeptanexactcomputationoftime.Wemayconsequentlyhopethatsoonerorlaterchronologicaltablesmaybediscovered,whichwillfurnishuswithminuteandaccurateinformationastothepreciseepochoftheoccurrenceofvariousimportanteventsinAssyrianhistory.Itis,indeed,remarkablethatSennacheribshouldmarksoexactlytheyearofthecarryingawayoftheAssyriangods.Thisverydateenablesus,aswillhereafterbeseen,torestoremuchofthechronology,andtoplace,almostwithcertainty,inthedynasticlists,akingwhosepositionwasbeforeunknown.

Wefindalsothatthegreaterpart,ifnotthewhole,oftherock-sculptureswereexecutedeitherattheendofthefirst,oratthebeginningofthesecond,yearofthereignofSennacherib.Asheparticularlydescribessixtablets,itisprobablethattheotherswereaddedatsomefutureperiod,andaftersomefreshvictory.Whenthewholeinscriptionisrestored,weshallprobablyobtainmanyotherimportantdetailswhicharewantingintheannalsofKouyunjik,andintherecordsofthesameperiod.

Beneaththesculpturedtablets,andinthebedoftheGomel,aretwoenormousfragmentsofrock,whichappeartohavebeentornfromtheoverhangingcliff,andtohavebeenhurledbysomemightyconvulsionofnatureintothetorrentbelow.Thepentupwaterseddyroundthemindeep

anddangerouswhirlpools,andwhenswollenbythewinterrainssweepcompletelyoverthem.Theystillbeartheremainsofsculpture.Onehasbeenbrokenbythefallintotwopieces.OnthemistheAssyrianHerculesstranglingthelionbetweentwowingedhuman-headedbulls,backtoback,asatthegrandentrancesofthepalacesofKouyunjikandKhorsabad.Abovethisgroupistheking,worshippingbetweentwodeities,whostandonmythicanimals,havingtheheadsofeagles,thebodiesandforefeetoflions,andhindlegsarmedwiththetalonsofabirdofprey.Theheightofthewholesculptureis24feet,thatofthewingedbull8ft.6in.

Neartheentrancetotheravinethefaceofthecliffhasbeenscrapedforsomeyardstothelevelofthebedofthetorrent.ApartyofKurdswerehiredtoexcavateatthisspot,aswellasinotherpartsofthenarrow

valley.Remainsandfoundationsofbuildingsinwell-hewnstonewerediscoveredunderthethickmuddepositedbytheGomelwhenswollenbyrains.Higherupthegorge,onremovingtheearth,Ifoundaseriesofbasinscutintherock,anddescendinginstepstothestream.Thewaterhadoriginallybeenledfromonetotheotherthroughsmallconduits,thelowestofwhichwasornamentedatitsmouthwithtworampantlionsinrelief.Theseoutletswerechokedup,butweclearedthem,andbypouringwaterintotheupperbasinrestoredthefountainasithadbeeninthetimeoftheAssyrians.

FromthenatureandnumberofthemonumentsatBavian,itwouldseemthatthisravinewasasacredspot,devotedtoreligiousceremoniesandtonationalsacrifices.Whenthebuildings,whoseremainsstillexist,were

usedforthesepurposes,thewatersmusthavebeenpentupbetweenquaysorembankments.Theynowoccasionallyspreadoverthebottomofthevalley,leavingnopathwayatthefootoftheloftycliffs.Theremainsofawell-builtraisedcausewayofstone,leadingtoBavianfromthecityofNineveh,maystillbetracedacrosstheplaintotheeastoftheGebelMakloub.

Theplace,fromitspicturesquebeautyanditscoolrefreshingshadeeveninthehottestdayofsummer,isagratefulretreat,wellsuitedtodevotionandtoholyrites.Thebrawlingstreamalmostfillsthebedof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thenarrowravinewithitsclearandlimpidwaters.Thebeetlingcliffsriseabruptlyoneachside,andabovethemtowerthewoodeddeclivitiesoftheKurdishhills.Asthevalleyopensintotheplain,thesidesofthelimestonemountainsarebrokenintoaseriesofdistinctstrata,andresembleavastflightofstepsleadinguptothehighlandsofcentralAsia.Thebanksofthetorrentareclothedwithshrubsanddwarftrees,amongstwhicharethegreenmyrtleandthegayoleander,bendingundertheweightofitsrosyblossoms.

IremainedtwodaysatBaviantocopytheinscriptions,andtoexploretheAssyrianremains.WishingtovisittheYezidichiefs,ItooktheroadtoAinSifni,passingthroughtwolargeKurdishvillages,AtrushandOm-es-sukr,andleavingtheentrancetothevalleyofSheikhAditotheright.Thedistricttothenorth-westofKhinnisispartlyinhabitedbyatribeprofessingpeculiarreligioustenets,andknownbythenameofShabbak.Althoughstrangeandmysteriousritesare,asusual,attributedtothem,IsuspectthattheyaresimplythedescendantsofKurds,whoemigratedatsomedistantperiodfromthePersianslopesofthemountains,andwhostillprofessSheeitedoctrines.

WepassedthenightinthevillageofEsseeyah,whereSheikhNasrhadrecentlybuiltadwelling-house.IoccupiedthesameroomwiththeSheikh,HusseinBey,andalargebodyofYezidiCawals,andwaslulledtosleepbyaninterminabletale,abouttheprophetMohammedandastork,which,when

wehadalllaindowntorest,aYezidipriestrelatedwiththesamesoporificeffectuponthewholeparty.OnthefollowingdayIhuntedgazelleswithHusseinBey,andwashisguestforthenightatBaadri,returningnextmorningtoMosul.

CHAPTERX.

VISITTOKALAHSHERGHATPREVENTED.--VISITTOSHOMAMOK.--KESHAF.--THEHOWAR.--ABEDOUIN.--HISMISSION.--DESCENTOFARABHORSES.--THEIRPEDIGREE.--RUINSOFMOKHAMOUR.--THEMOUNDOFTHEKASR.--PLAINOF

SHOMAMOK.--THEGLAORKALAH.--XENOPHONANDTHETENTHOUSAND.--AWOLF.--RETURNTONIMROUDANDMOSUL.--DISCOVERIESATKOUYUNJIK.--DESCRIPTIONOFTHEBAS-RELIEFS.

ThemoundofKalahSherghathavingbeenveryimperfectlyexaminedduringmyformerresidenceinAssyria[96],Ihadmadearrangementstoreturntotheruins.Allmypreparationswerecompletebythe22dofFebruary,andIfloateddowntheTigrisonaraftladenwithprovisionsandtoolsnecessaryforatleastamonth'sresidenceandworkinthedesert.IhadexpectedtofindMohammedSeyyid,oneofmyJebourSheikhs,withapartyoftheAjel,hisownparticulartribe,readytoaccompanyme.TheBedouins,however,weremovingtothenorth,andtheirhorsemenhad

alreadybeenseenintheneighbourhoodofKalahSherghat.NothingwouldconsequentlyinducetheAjel,whowerenotonthebesttermswiththeShammarArabs,toleavetheirtents,and,aftermuchuselessdiscussion,Iwasobligedtogiveupthejourney.

Awad,withapartyofJehesh,hadbeenfornearlysixweeksexploringthemoundsintheplainofShomamok,thecountryoftheTaiArabs,andhadsenttotellmethathehadfoundremainsofbuildings,vases,andinscribedbricks.Idetermined,therefore,tospendafewdaysininspectinghisexcavations,andincarefullyexaminingthoseruinswhichI

7/31/2019 Ninevah


hadonlyhastilyvisitedonmypreviousjourney.IaccordinglystartedfromNimroudonthe2dofMarch,accompaniedbyHormuzd,thedoctor,andMr.Rolland.WedescendedtheTigristoitsjunctionwiththeZab,whosewaters,swollenbythemeltingofthesnowsintheKurdishmountains,werenolongerfordable.Neartheconfluenceofthestreams,andonthesouthernbankoftheZab,istheloftymoundofKeshaf,wherearetheremainsofadesertedfort,commandingthetworivers.ItwasgarrisonedafewyearsagobyanofficerandacompanyofirregulartroopsfromBaghdad,whowereablefromthisstrongholdtochecktheinroadsoftheBedouins,aswellasoftheTaiandothertribes,whoplunderedtheMosulvillages.Sinceithasbeenabandoned,thecountryhasagainbeenexposedtotheincursionsofthesemarauders,whonowcrosstheriversunmolested,andlaywastethecultivateddistricts.

ThetentsoftheHowarwereaboutfivemilesfromKeshaf.Sincemylastvisit,hehadbecomeoncemoretheacknowledgedchiefoftheTai.Farashad,however,withdrawnfromhisrival,and,followedbyhisownadherents,hadmovedtothebanksoftheLesserZab.TheShammarBedouins,encouragedbythedivisioninthetribe,had,onlythreedaysbeforeourvisit,crossedtheTigrisandfallensuddenlyupontheKochers,orKurdishwanderers,oftheHerkiclans.ThesenomadesdescendannuallyfromthehighestmountainregionstowinterintherichmeadowsofShomamok.TheypayasmalltributetotheTaiforpermissiontopasturetheirflocks,andforprotectionagainstthedesertArabs.TheHowarwasconsequentlybound

todefendthem;butinendeavoringtodoso,hadbeenbeatenwiththelossoffortyoftheirfinestmares.

WefoundtheHowarmuchcastdownandvexedbyhisrecentmisfortunes.Thechiefsofthetribewerewithhim,ingloomyconsultationovertheirlosses.ABedouin,wrappedinhisraggedcloak,wasseatedlistlesslyinthetent.HehadbeenmyguestthepreviouseveningatNimroud,andhadannouncedhimselfonamissionfromtheShammartotheTai,tolearnthebreedofthemareswhichhadbeentakeninthelateconflict.Hismessagemightappear,tothoseignorantofthecustomsoftheArabs,oneofinsultanddefiance.Buthewasonacommonerrand,andalthoughtherewasbloodbetweenthetribes,hispersonwasassacredasthatofanambassadorinanycivilisedcommunity.Afterabattleoraforay,thetribeswhohave

takenhorsesfromtheenemywillsendanenvoytoasktheirbreed,andapersonsochosenpassesfromtenttotentunharmed,hearingfromeachman,asheeatshisbread,thedescentandqualitiesoftheanimalhemayhavelost.

Amongstmenwhoattachthehighestvaluetothepurebloodoftheirhorses,andwhohavenowrittenpedigree,foramongsttheBedouinsdocumentsofthiskinddonotexist,suchcustomsarenecessary.Thedescentofahorseispreservedbytradition,andthebirthofacoltisaneventknowntothewholetribe.ItwouldbeconsidereddisgracefultothecharacterofatrueBedouintogivefalsetestimonyonsuchapoint,andhiswordisusuallyreceivedwithimplicitconfidence.

Themorningfollowing,thoughtheHowarandtheArabsrefusedtoaccompanyme,Isetofffortheruins,whichareinthedeserteddistrictbetweentheKarachokrangeandtheriverTigris.Theplainsinwhichtheyaresituatedarecelebratedfortherichnessoftheirpastures,andaresoughtinspringbytheTaiandtheKurdishKochers.Wekeptasmuchaspossibleinthebrokencountryatthefootofthemountaintoescapeobservation.ThewoodedbanksoftheTigrisandthewhitedomeofthetombofSultanAbdallahwerefaintlyvisibleinthedistance,andafewartificialmoundsroseintheplains.Thepastureswerealreadyfitfortheflocks,andluxuriantgrassfurnishedfoodforourhorsesamidsttheruins.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


TheprincipalmoundofMokhamourisofconsiderableheight,andendsinacone.Itisapparentlytheremainsofaplatformbuiltofearthandsun-driedbricks,originallydividedintoseveraldistinctstagesorterraces.Ononesidearethetracesofaninclinedascent,orofaflightofsteps,onceleadingtothesummit.Itstandsinthecentreofaquadrangleoflowermounds,about480pacessquare.Icouldfindnoremainsofmasonry,noranyfragmentsofinscribedbricks,pottery,orsculpturedalabaster.

TheruinsarenearthesouthernspurofKarachok,wherethatmountain,afterfallingsuddenlyintolowbrokenhills,againrisesintoasolitaryridge,calledBismar,stretchingtotheLesserZab,Mokhamourbeingbetweenthetworivers.Thesedetachedlimestoneridges,runningparalleltothegreatrangeofKurdistan,suchastheMakloub,Sinjar,Karachok,andHamrin,areapeculiarfeatureinthegeologicalstructureofthecountrylyingbetweentheancientprovinceofCiliciaandthePersianGulf.

Havingexaminedtheruins,takenbearingsoftheprincipallandmarks,andallowedourhorsestorefreshthemselvesinthehighgrass,IreturnedtotheencampmentoftheTai.Arideofthreehoursnextmorning,acrossthespursoftheKarachok,broughtustotheruinsofAbou-Jerdeh,nearwhichwehadfoundthetentsofFarasonourlastvisit.Themoundisof

considerablesize,andonitssummitaretracesoffoundationsinstonemasonry;butIcouldfindnoremainstoconnectitwiththeAssyrianperiod.

WebreakfastedwithouroldhostWaliBeg,andthencontinuedourjourneytooneoftheprincipalartificialmoundsofShomamok,calledthe"Kasr,"orpalace.ThepastureswerecoveredwiththeflocksoftheArabs,theKochers,andtheDisdayiKurds.Wecrossedabroadanddeepvalley,calledtheKordereh,andencampedforthenightatthefootoftheKasr,onthebanksofarivuletcalledAs-Surayji,whichjoinstheKorderehbelowAbou-Jerdeh,nearavillagenamed"SalamAleik,"or"Peacebewithyou."

Themoundisbothlargeandlofty,andissurroundedbytheremainsofan

earthenembankment.Itisdividedalmostintotwodistinctequalpartsbyaravineorwatercourse,whereanascentprobablyonceledfromtheplaintotheedificeonthesummitoftheplatform.Awadhadopenedseveraldeeptrenchesandtunnelsinthemound,andhaddiscoveredchambers,somewithwallsofplainsun-driedbricks,otherspanelledroundthelowerpartwithslabsofreddishlimestone,about3-1/2or4feethigh.Hehadalsofoundinscribedbricks,withinscriptionsdeclaringthatSennacheribhadherebuiltacity,orratherpalace,forthenameofwhich,aswritteninthecuneiformcharacters,Iamnotabletosuggestareading.Iobservedathindeposit,orlayer,ofpebblesandrubbleabovetheremainsoftheAssyrianbuilding,andabouteightfeetbeneaththesurface,asatKouyunjik.

FromthesummitoftheKasrofShomamokItookbearingsoftwenty-fiveconsiderablemounds,theremainsofancientAssyrianpopulation;[97]thelargestbeinginthedirectionoftheLesserZab.WishingtoexamineseveralruinsintheneighbourhoodIleftourtentsearlyonthefollowingmorning,androdetothemoundofAbd-ul-Azeez,abouteightorninemilesdistant,andontheroadbetweenBaghdadandArbil.Thelattertown,withitscastlepercheduponaloftyartificialmound,allthatremainsoftheancientcityofArbela,whichgaveitsnametooneofthegreatestbattlestheworldeversaw,wasvisibleduringthegreaterpartofourday'sride.Theplainaboundsinvillagesandcanalsfor

7/31/2019 Ninevah


irrigation,suppliedbytheAs-Surayji.Thesoilthusirrigatedproducescotton,rice,tobacco,millet,melons,cucumbers,andafewvegetables.ThejurisdictionoftheTaiSheikhendsattheKasr;thevillagesbeyondareundertheimmediatecontrolofthegovernorofArbil,towhomtheypaytheirtaxes.Theinhabitantscomplainedloudlyofoppression,andappearedtobeanactive,industriousrace.UponthebanksoftheLesserZab,belowAltunKupri(orGuntera,the"Bridge,"astheArabscalltheplace),encamptheArabtribeofAbou-Hamdan,renownedforthebeautyofitswomen.

ThemoundsIexamined,andparticularlythatofAbd-ul-Azeez,aboundinsepulchralurnsandinpottery,apparentlynotAssyrian.

ThemostremarkablespotinthedistrictofShomamokistheGla(anArabcorruptionofKalah),ortheCastle,abouttwomilesdistantfromtheKasr.Itisanaturalelevation,leftbythestreamoftheKordereh,whichhaswornadeepchannelinthesoil,anddividingitselfatthisplaceintotwobranchesformsanisland,whosesummit,butlittleincreasedbyartificialmeans,is,therefore,nearlyonalevelwiththetopoftheoppositeprecipices.Thevalleymaybeinsomeplacesaboutamilewide,inothersonlyfourorfivehundredyards.TheGlaisconsequentlyanaturalstronghold,aboveonehundredfeethigh,furnishedonallsideswithoutworks,resemblingtheartificialembankmentsofamoderncitadel.Afewisolatedmoundsnearithavetheappearanceofdetachedforts,and

natureseemstohaveformedacompletesystemoffortification.Ihaverarelyseenamorecuriousplace.

TherearenoremainsofmodernhabitationsonthesummitoftheGla,whichcanonlybeascendedwithoutdifficultyfromoneside.Awadexcavatedbymydirectionsinthemound,anddiscoveredtracesofAssyrianbuildings,andseveralinscribedbricks,bearingthenameofSennacherib,andofacastleorpalace,which,likethatonthebricksfromtheKasr,Iamunabletointerpret.

FromtheGlaIcrossedtheplaintothemoundofAbouSheetha,inwhichAwadhadexcavatedforsometimewithoutmakinganydiscoveryofinterest.Nearthisruin,perhapsatitsveryfoot,musthavetakenplaceanevent

whichledtooneofthemostcelebratedepisodesofancienthistory.HereweretreacherouslyseizedClearchus,Proxenus,Menon,Agias,andSocrates;andXenophon,electedtothecommandoftheGreekauxiliaries,commencedtheever-memorableretreatoftheTenThousand.ThecampofTissaphernes,dappledwithitsmany-coloredtents,andglitteringwithgoldenarmsandsilkenstandards,thegorgeousdisplayofPersianpomp,probablystoodontheKordereh,betweenAbou-SheethaandtheKasr.TheGreekshavingtakenthelowerroad,tothewestoftheKarachokrange,throughaplaineventhenasnowadesert[98],turnedtotheeast,andcrossedthespurofthemountain,wherewehadrecentlyseenthetentsoftheHowar,inordertoreachthefordsoftheZab.IhavealreadypointedouttheprobabilityoftheirhavingfordedthatriverabovethejunctionoftheGhazir[99],andtothisdaythefordtotheeastofAbou-Sheethaisthebest,andthat

usuallyfrequentedbytheArabs.StillnotopenlymolestedbythePersians,theGreekshaltedforthreedaysonthebanksofthestream,andClearchus,toputanendtothejealousieswhichhadbrokenoutbetweenthetwoarmies,soughtaninterviewwiththePersianchief.ThecraftyEastern,knowingnopolicybutthattowhichthedescendantsofhisracearestilltrue,inveigledtheGreekcommandersintohispower,and,havingseizedthem,senttheminchainstothePersianmonarch.Hethenputtodeathmanyoftheirbravestcompanionsandsoldiers,whohadaccompaniedtheirchiefs.TheeffectwhichthisperfidiousacthadontheGreektroops,surroundedbypowerfulenemies,wanderinginthemidstofan

7/31/2019 Ninevah


unknownandhostilecountry,betrayedbythosetheyhadcomesofartoserve,andseparatedfromtheirnativelandbyimpassablerivers,waterlessdeserts,andinaccessiblemountains,withoutevenaguidetodirecttheirsteps,istouchinglydescribedbythegreatleaderandhistorianoftheirretreat:"Fewateanythingthatevening,fewmadefires,andmanythatnightnevercametotheirquarters,butlaidthemselvesdown,everymanintheplacewherehehappenedtobe,unabletosleep,throughsorrowandlongingfortheircountry,theirparents,theirwives,andchildren,whomtheyneverexpectedtoseeagain."Buttherewasoneinthearmywhowasequaltothedifficultieswhichencompassedthem,andwhohadresolvedtoencouragehishopelesscountrymentomakeonegreateffortfortheirlibertyandtheirlives.Beforethebreakofday,Xenophonhadformedhisplans.Dressedinthemostbeautifularmourhecouldfind,"forhethoughtifthegodsgrantedhimvictorytheseornamentswouldbecomeaconqueror,andifheweretodietheywoulddecoratehisfall,"heharanguedthedespondingGreeks,andshowedthemhowalonetheycouldagainseetheirhomes.Hiseloquenceandcouragegavethemnewlife,and,afterfordingtheriverZab,theycommencedthatseriesofmarches,directedwithaskillandenergyunequalled,whichledthemthroughdifficultiesalmostinsurmountabletotheirnativeshores.

NearAbou-Sheetha,too,Darius,afugitive,urgedhisflyinghorsesthroughtheZab,followedbythescatteredremnantsofanarmywhichnumberedinitsranksmenofalmosteveryraceandclimeofAsia.Afew

hoursafter,theMacedonianplungedintothefordinpursuitofthefallenmonarch,attheheadofthoseinvinciblelegionswhichhewastolead,withoutalmostasecondcheck,tothebanksoftheIndus.TheplainswhichstretchfromtheZabbelowAbou-Sheethahavesincebeenmorethanoncethebattle-fieldofEuropeandAsia.

Igazedwithdeepinterestuponthesceneofsuchgreatevents--aplain,wherenothingremainstotellofthevastarmieswhichoncemovedacrossit,ofEuropeanvalour,orofEasternmagnificence.

WhilstridingthroughthejungletowardsNegoub,awolfrosebeforemefromitslair,andrantowardstheplain.Followingtheanimal,Iwoundeditwithonebarrelofmypistol,andwasabouttodischargethesecond,

whenmyhorsesliptonsomewetstrawleftbyarecentencampment,andwefelltogetheruponthewolf.Itstruggledandfreeditself,leavingmebesmearedwithitsblood.Thecockofthepistolfortunatelybrokeingoingoffwhilstthemuzzlewasclosetomyhead,andIescapedwithoutotherinjurythanabruisedhand,thecompleteuseofwhichIdidnotrecoverforsomemonths.

OnmyreturntoNimroud,IremainedthereafewdaystogivedirectionstotheoverseersforcontinuingtheworkduringaprolongedabsencewhichImeditatedinthedesert.AtKouyunjikseveralnewchambershadbeenopened.Thewesternportalofthegreathall,whosefoursideswerenowcompletelyuncovered,ledintoalongnarrowchamber(eighty-twofeetbytwenty-six),thewallsofwhichhadunfortunatelybeenalmostentirely

destroyed.Inthechamberbeyond,afewslabswerestillstandingintheiroriginalplaces.Inlengththisroomwasthesameasthatparalleltoit,butinbreadthitwasonlyeighteenfeet.Thebas-reliefsrepresentedthesiegeandsackofoneofthemanycitiestakenbythegreatking,andthetransferofitscaptivestosomedistantprovinceofAssyria.TheAssyrians,aswastheircustom,carriedawayintriumphtheimagesofthegodsoftheconquerednation,whichwereplacedonpolesandborneinprocessiononmen'sshoulders."HathanygodofthenationsdeliveredhislandoutofthehandofthekingofAssyria?"exclaimedtheAssyriangeneraltotheJews."WherearethegodsofHamathandArphad?whereare

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thegodsofSepharvaim?"[100]Theyhadbeencarriedawaywiththecaptives,andtheveryidolsthatwererepresentedinthisbas-reliefmaybeamongstthosetowhichRabshakehmadethisboastingallusion.Thecapturedgodswerethree,ahumanfigurewithoutstretchedarms,alion-headedmancarryingalongstaffinonehand,andanimageinclosedbyasquareframe.

Onthenorthernsideofthegreathalltheportalformedbythewingedbulls,andthetwosmallerdoorwaysguardedbycolossalwingedfigures,ledintoachamberonehundredfeetbytwenty-four,whichopenedintoafurtherroomofsomewhatsmallerdimensions.Inthefirst,afewslabswerestillstanding,toshowthatonthewallshadbeenrepresentedsomewarlikeexpeditionoftheAssyrianking,and,asusual,thetriumphantissueofthecampaign.Themonarch,inhischariot,andsurroundedbyhisbody-guards,wasseenreceivingthecaptivesandthespoilinahillycountry,whilsthiswarriorsweredraggingtheirhorsesupasteepmountainnearafortifiedtown,drivingtheirchariotsalongthebanksofariver,andslayingwiththespeartheflyingenemy.

Thebas-reliefs,whichhadonceornamentedthesecondchamber,hadbeenstillmorecompletelydestroyed.AfewfragmentsprovedthattheyhadrecordedthewarsoftheAssyrianswithamaritimepeople,whoseoverthrowwasrepresentedonmorethanonesculpturedwallinthepalace,andwhomayprobablybeidentifiedwithsomenationonthePhoeniciancoast

conqueredbySennacherib,andmentionedinhisgreatinscriptions.Theirgalleys,rowedbydoublebanksofoarsmen,andthehighconicalhead-dressoftheirwomen,havealreadybeendescribed.[101]Onthebestpreservedslabwastheinteriorofafortifiedcamp,amidstmountains.Withinthewallsweretentswhoseownerswereengagedinvariousdomesticoccupations,cookinginpotsplacedonstonesoverthefire,receivingthebloodofaslaughteredsheepinajar,andmakingreadythecouches.Warriorswereseatedbeforeatable,withtheirshieldshungtothetent-poleabovethem.

Tothesouthofthepalace,butpartofthesamegreatbuilding,thoughsomewhatremovedfromthenewexcavations,andadjoiningthoseformerlycarriedon,anadditionalchamberhadbeenopened,inwhichseveral

bas-reliefsofconsiderableinteresthadbeendiscovered.

Itsprincipalentrance,facingthewest,wasformedbyapairofcolossalhuman-headedlions,carvedincoarselimestone,somuchinjuredthateventheinscriptionsonthelowerpartofthemwerenearlyillegible.Unfortunatelythebas-reliefswereequallymutilated,fourslabsonlyretaininganytracesofsculpture.OneofthemrepresentedAssyrianwarriorsleadingcaptives,whodifferedincostumefromanyotherconqueredpeoplehithertofoundonthewallsofthepalaces.Theirhead-dressconsistedofhighfeathers,formingakindoftiaralikethatofanIndianchief,andtheyworearobeconfinedatthewaist,byanornamentedgirdle.Someofthemcarriedanobjectresemblingatorch.AmongsttheenemiesoftheEgyptiansrepresentedontheirmonumentsisa

tribesimilarlyattired.TheirnamehasbeenreadTokkari,andtheyhavebeenidentifiedwithanAsiaticnation.Wehaveseenthatintheinscriptionsonthebulls,theTokkariarementionedamongstthepeopleconqueredbySennacherib[102],anditishighlyprobablethatthecaptivesinthebas-reliefsIamdescribingbelongedtothem.Unfortunatelynoepigraph,orvestigeofaninscription,remainedonthesculpturesthemselves,toenableustoidentifythem.

[Illustration:Acaptive(oftheTokkari?)Kouyunjik.]

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Onasecondslab,preservedinthischamber,wasrepresentedadouble-walledcitywitharchedgateways,andinclinedapproachesleadingtothemfromtheouterwalls.Withinwerewarriorswithhorses;outsidethefortificationswasanarrowstreamorcanal,plantedonbothsideswithtrees,andflowingintoabroadriver,onwhichwerelargeboats,holdingseveralpersons,andaraftofskins,bearingamanfishing,andtwoothersseatedbeforeapotorcaldron.Alongthebanks,andapparentlywashedbythestream,wasawallwithequidistanttowersandbattlements.Onanotherpartofthesameriverweremenferryinghorsesacrosstheriverinboats,whilstotherswereswimmingoveroninflatedskins.Thewaterswarmedwithfishandcrabs.Gardensandorchards,withvariouskindsoftrees,appearedtobewateredbycanalssimilartothosewhichoncespreadfertilityovertheplainsofBabylonia,andofwhichthechoked-upbedsstillremain.Aman,suspendedbyarope,wasbeingloweredintothewater.Uponthecornerofaslabalmostdestroyed,wasahanginggarden,supporteduponcolumns,whosecapitalswerenotunlikethoseoftheCorinthianorder.Thisrepresentationofornamentalgardenswashighlycurious.Itismuchtoberegrettedthatthebas-reliefshadsustainedtoomuchinjurytoberestoredorremoved.

CHAPTERXI.

PREPARATIONSFORAJOURNEYTOTHEKHABOUR.--SCULPTURESDISCOVEREDTHERE.--SHEIKHSUTTUM.--HISREDIFF.--DEPARTUREFROMMOSUL.--FIRSTENCAMPMENT.--ABOUKHAMEERA.--ASTORM.--TELERMAH.--ASTRANGER.--TELJEMAL.--THECHIEFOFTELAFER.--ASUNSETINTHEDESERT.--AJEBOURENCAMPMENT.--THEBELLEDSINJAR.--THESINJARHILL.--MIRKAN.--BUKRA.--THEDRESSOFTHEYEZIDIS.--THESHOMAL.--OSSOFA.--ALDINA.--RETURNTOTHEBELLED.--ASNAKE-CHARMER.--JOURNEYCONTINUEDINTHEDESERT.--RISHWAN.--ENCAMPMENTOFTHEBORAIJ.--DRESSOFARABWOMEN.--RATHAIYAH.--ADEPUTATIONFROMTHEYEZIDIS.--ARABENCAMPMENTS.--THEKHABOUR.--MOHAMMEDEMIN.--ARRIVALATARBAN.

IhadlongwishedtovisitthebanksoftheKhabour.Thisriver,theChaborasoftheGreekgeographers,andtheHabor,orChebar,oftheSamaritancaptivity[103],risesinthenorthofMesopotamia,andflowingtothewestoftheSinjarhill,fallsintotheEuphratesnearthesiteoftheancientcityofCarchemish[104]orCircesium,stillknowntotheBedouinsbythenameofCarkeseea.Asitwindsthroughthemidstofthedesert,anditsrichpasturesaretheresortofwanderingtribesofArabs,itisalwaysdifficultofaccesstothetraveller.Itwasexamined,forashortdistancefromitsmouth,bytheexpeditionunderColonelChesney;butthegeneralcourseoftheriverwasimperfectlyknown,andseveralgeographicalquestionsofinterestconnectedwithitwereundeterminedprevioustomyvisit.

WiththeBedouins,whowereoccasionallymyguestsatMosulorNimroud,aswellaswiththeJebours,whoseencampinggroundswereoriginallyonitsbanks,theKhabourwasaconstantthemeofexaggeratedpraise.Therichnessofitspastures,thebeautyofitsflowers,itsjunglesteemingwithgameofallkinds,andtheleafythicknessofitstreesyieldinganagreeableshadeduringthehottestdaysofsummer,formedaterrestrialparadisetowhichthewanderingArabeagerlyturnedhisstepswhenhecouldleadhisflocksthitherinsafety.MyoldfriendSheikhMohammedEmin,whohadpitchedhistentsontheriver,havinginvitedmetovisit

7/31/2019 Ninevah


him,andsentmewordthattwocolossalidols,similartothoseofNimroud,hadsuddenlyappearedinamoundbytheriverside,Ididnothesitate,butdeterminedtostartatoncefortheKhabour.

AstheShammarBedouinswerescatteredoverthedesertbetweenMosulandtheKhabour,andtheirhorsemencontinuallyscouredtheplainsinsearchofplunder,itwasnecessarythatweshouldbeprotectedandaccompaniedbyaninfluentialchiefofthetribe.IaccordinglymadearrangementswithSuttum,aSheikhoftheBoraij,oneoftheprincipalbranchesoftheShammar,whosetentswereatthattimepitchedbetweentheriverandtheruinsofElHather,andpunctualtohisappointment,hebroughthiscamelstoMosulonthe19thofMarch.HewasaccompaniedbyKhoraif,his _rediff_,asthepersonwhositsonthedromedary[105]behindtheprincipalrideriscalledbytheBedouins.AmongstthetwogreatnomadetribesoftheShammarandAneyza,theword"rediff"frequentlyinfersamoreintimateconnectionthanamerecompanionshiponacamel.Itiscustomarywiththemforawarriortoswearakindofbrotherhoodwithapersonnotonlynotrelatedtohimbyblood,butfrequentlyevenofadifferenttribe.Twomenconnectedbythistieareinseparable.Theygotogethertowar,theyliveinthesametent,andareallowedtoseeeachother'swives.Theybecome,indeed,morethanbrothers.KhoraifwasofthetribeoftheAneyza,whohaveadeadlyfeudwiththeShammar,andwasconsequentlyabletorenderequalservicestoanyofhisoldornewfriends,whomightfallintoeachother'shands.Itisonthisaccount

thatawarriorgenerallychooseshisredifffromawarliketribewithwhichheisatenmity,foriftakeninwar,hewouldthenbe_dakheel_,thatis,protected,bythefamily,orratherparticularsept,ofhiscompanion.Ontheotherhand,shouldoneoftherediff'sfriendsbecometheprisonerofthesub-tribeintowhichhiskinsmanhasbeenadopted,hewouldbeunderitsprotection,andcouldnotbemolested.Herides,whentravelling,onthenakedbackoftheanimal,clingingtothehinderpartofthesaddle,hislegscrouchedupalmosttohischin--averyuncomfortablepositionforonenotaccustomedfromchildhoodtoahardseatandaroughmotion.

Asourdeserttripwouldprobablylastformorethantwomonths,duringwhichtimeweshouldmeetwithnovillages,orpermanentsettlements,we

wereobligedtotakewithussuppliesofallkinds,bothforourselvesandtheworkmen;consequently,flour,rice,burghoul(preparedwheat,tobeusedasasubstituteforrice),andbiscuits,formedalargeportionofourbaggage.Variousluxuries,suchassugar,coffee,tea,andspices,withrobesofsilkandcotton,andredandyellowboots,togetherwithbaskets,toolsforexcavating,tents,andworkingutensils,formedtherestofourbaggage.

Asitwasmyintentiontoexploreanyruinsofimportancethatwemightseeonourway,IchoseaboutfiftyofmybestArabexcavators,andtwelveTiyari,orNestorians,toaccompanyus.Theyweretofollowonfoot,butoneortwoextracamelswereprovidedincaseanywereunablefromfatiguetokeepupwiththecaravan.Aftertheusualnoiseandconfusionin

settlingtheloadsonthecamels,andsuchmatters,aboutmid-daythecaravangotreadytosetout.

Ididnotleavethetownuntilnearlyanhourandahalfafterthecaravan,togivetimefortheloadstobefinallyadjusted,andthelineofmarchtobeformed.WhenwehadallassembledoutsidetheSinjargate,ourpartyhadswollenintoalittlearmy.TheDoctor,Mr.Cooper,andMr.HormuzdRassam,ofcourse,withotherfriends,accompaniedme.ThirteenorfourteenBedouinshadchargeofthecamels,sothat,withtheworkmenandservants,ourcaravanconsistedofnearlyonehundredwell-armedmen;a

7/31/2019 Ninevah


forcesufficienttodefyalmostanyhostilepartywithwhichwewerelikelytofallinduringourjourney.HusseinBey,theYezidichief,andmanyofourfriends,asitiscustomaryintheEast,rodewithusduringpartofourfirststage;andmyexcellentfriend,theRev.Mr.Ford,anAmericanmissionary,thenresidentinMosul,passedthefirsteveningunderourtentsinthedesert.

Suttum,withhisrediff,rodealightfleetdromedary,whichhadbeentakeninaplunderingexpeditionfromtheAneyza.ItsnamewasDhwaila.Itshighandpicturesquesaddlewasprofuselyornamentedwithbrassbossesandnails;overtheseatwasthrowntheBaghdaddoublebagsadornedwithlongtasselsandfringesofmany-coloredwools,somuchcovetedbytheBedouin.TheSheikhhadthegeneraldirectionandsuperintendenceofourmarch.TheMesopotamiandeserthadbeenhishomefromhisbirth,andhekneweveryspringandpasture.HewasoftheSaadi,oneofthemostillustriousfamiliesoftheShammar,andhepossessedgreatpersonalinfluenceinthetribe.Hisintelligencewasofaveryhighorder,andhewasaswellknownforhisskillinBedouinintrigue,asforhiscourageanddaringinwar.Inpersonhewasofmiddleheight,ofsparehabit,butwellmade,andofnobleanddignifiedcarriage;althoughamusketwoundinthethigh,fromwhichtheballhadnotbeenextracted,gavehimaslightlamenessinhisgait.Hisfeatureswereregularandwellproportioned,andofthatdelicatecharactersofrequentlyfoundamongstthenomadesofthedesert.Arestlessandsparklingeyeofthedeepestblackspoketheinner

man,andseemedtoscanandpenetrateeverythingwithinitsken.Hisdarkhairwasplattedintomanylongtails;hisbeard,likethatoftheArabsingeneral,wasscanty.HeworetheusualArabshirt,andoveritacloakofbluecloth,trimmedwithredsilkandlinedwithfur,apresentfromsomePashaashepretended,butmoreprobablyapartofsomegreatman'swardrobethathadbeenappropriatedwithoutitsowner'sconsent.HewastheverypictureofatrueBedouinSheikh,andhisliveliness,hiswit,andhissingularpowersofconversation,whichmadehimthemostagreeableofcompanions,didnotbeliehisrace.[106]TheBairakdarhadthegeneralmanagementofthecaravan,superintending,withuntiringzealandactivity,theloadingandunloadingoftheanimals,thepitchingofthetents,andthenightwatches,whicharehighlynecessaryinthedesert.

AswewoundslowlyoverthelowrockyhillstothewestofthetownofMosul,inalongstragglingline,ourcaravanhadastrangeandmotleyappearance;Europeans,Turks,Bedouins,town-Arabs,Tiyari,andYezidis,weremingledinsingularconfusion;eachadding,bydifferenceofcostumeandaprofusionofbrightcolors,tothegeneralpicturesquenessandgaietyofthescene.

TheTigris,fromitsentranceintothelowcountryatthefootoftheKurdishmountainsnearJezireh,totheruinedtownofTekrit,isseparatedfromtheMesopotamianplainsbyarangeoflowlimestonehills.Werodeoverthisundulatinggroundforaboutanhourandahalf,andthendescendedintotheplainofZerga,encampingforthenightneartheruinsofasmallvillage.Thereisnowscarcelyonepermanentsettlementonthe

banksoftheTigrisfromJezirehtotheimmediatevicinityofBaghdad,withtheexceptionofMosulandTekrit.Oneofthemostfertilecountriesintheworld,wateredbyarivernavigablefornearlysixhundredmiles,hasbeenturnedintoadesertandawilderness,bycontinuedmisgovernment,oppression,andneglect.

Theloadshadnotyetbeenfairlydividedamongstthecamels,andthesunhadrisenabovethehorizon,beforetheBedouinshadarrangedthemtotheirsatisfaction,andwerereadytodepart.TheplainofZergawascarpetedwithtendergrass,scarcelyyetforwardenoughtoaffordpasture

7/31/2019 Ninevah


forouranimals.Scatteredhereandthereweretulipsofabrightscarlethue,theearliestflowerofthespring.

Arideofthreehoursandaquarterbroughtustoasecondlineoflimestonehills,thecontinuationoftheTelAferandSinjarrange,dividingthesmallplainofZergafromthetrueMesopotamiandesert.FromapeakwhichIascendedtotakebearings,thevastlevelcountry,stretchingtotheEuphrates,layamapbeneathme,dottedwithmounds,butotherwiseunbrokenbyasingleeminence.ThenearestandmostremarkablegroupofruinswascalledAbouKhameera,andconsistedofalofty,conicalmoundsurroundedbyasquareinclosure,orridgeofearth,marking,asatKouyunjikandNimroud,theremainsofancientwalls.

Eightortenofmyworkmen,underaChristiansuperintendent,hadbeenforsomedaysexcavatingintheruinsofAbouKhameera.Ithereforeorderedthetentstobepitchednearthereedystream,andgallopedtothemounds,whichwererathermorethanamiledistant.IngeneralplantheruinscloselyresemblethoseofMokhamourintheTaicountry.[107]Theworkmenhadopeneddeeptrenchesandtunnelsinseveralpartsoftheprincipalruin,andhadfoundwallsofsun-driedbrick,unsculpturedalabasterslabs,andsomecircularstonesocketsforthehingesofgates,similartothosediscoveredatNimroud.Thebakedbricksandthepiecesofgypsumandpotteryscatteredamongsttherubbishborenoinscriptions,norcouldI,afterthemostcarefulsearch,findthesmallestfragmentofsculpture.I

havenohesitation,however,inassigningtheruinstotheAssyrianperiod.

Oneofthosefuriousandsuddenstorms,whichfrequentlysweepovertheplainsofMesopotamiaduringthespringseason,burstoverusinthenight.Whilstincessantlightningsbrokethegloom,aragingwindalmostdrownedthedeeprollofthethunder.TheunitedstrengthoftheArabscouldscarcelyholdtheflappingcanvassofthetents.Raindescendedintorrents,sparingusnoplaceofshelter.Towardsdawnthehurricanehadpassedaway,leavingastillandcloudlesssky.Whentheroundclearsunrosefromthebroadexpanseofthedesert,adelightfulcalmandfreshnesspervadedtheair,producingmingledsensationsofpleasureandrepose.

Thevegetationwasfarmoreforwardinthatpartofthedeserttraversedduringtheday'sjourneythanintheplainofZerga.Wetrodonacarpetofthebrightestverdure,mingledwithgaudyflowers.OnallsidesofusroseloftyAssyrianmounds,nowcoveredwithsoftherbage.These,seenfromagreatdistance,andthebestoflandmarksinavastplain,guidetheBedouininhisyearlywanderings.[108]

TelErmah,"themoundofthespears,"hadbeenvisiblefromourtents,risingfarabovethesurroundingruins.Asitwasalittleoutofthedirectlineofmarch,Suttummountedoneofourledhorses,andleavingKhoraiftoprotectthecaravan,rodewithmetothespot.ThemoundispreciselysimilarincharactertoAbouKhameeraandMokhamour,and,likethem,standswithinaquadrangleofearthenwalls.Iwasunabletofind

anyinscribedfragmentsofstoneorbrick.

WhilstIwasexaminingtheruins,Suttum,fromthehighestmound,hadbeenscanningtheplainwithhiseagleeye.Atlengthitresteduponadistantmovingobject.AlthoughwithatelescopeIcouldscarcelydistinguishthattowhichhepointed,theSheikhsawthatitwasarideronadromedary.Henow,therefore,begantowatchthestrangerwiththateagercuriosityandsuspicionalwaysshownbyaBedouin,whenthesolitudeofthedesertisbrokenbyahumanbeingofwhoseconditionandbusinessheisignorant.Suttumsoonsatisfiedhimselfastothecharacterofthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


solitarywanderer.Hedeclaredhimtobeamessengerfromhisowntribe,whohadbeensenttoleadustohisfather'stents.Mountinghishorse,hegallopedtowardshim.TheArabsoonperceivedtheapproachinghorseman,andthencommencedonbothsidesaseriesofmanoeuvrespractisedbythosewhomeetinthedesert,andareasyetdistrustfulofeachother.Imarkedthemfromtheruinastheycautiouslyapproached,nowhalting,nowdrawingnigh,andthenpretendingtorideawayinanoppositedirection.Atlength,recognisingoneanother,theymet,and,havingfirstdismountedtoembrace,cametogethertowardsus.AsSuttumhadconjectured,amessengerhadbeensenttohimfromhisfather'stribe,tosaythattheirtentswouldbepitchedinthreeorfourdaysbeneaththeSinjarhill.

FromthisspottheoldcastleofTelAfer,standingboldlyonaneminenceabouttenmilesdistant,wasplainlyvisible.Continuingourmarchwereached,towardsevening,agroupofmoundsknownasTelJemal,andpitchedinthemidstofthemonagreenlawn,enamelledwithflowers,thatfurnishedacarpetforourtentsunequalledinsoftnessoftexture,orinrichnessofcolor,bytheloomsofCashmere.

Thetentshadscarcelybeenraisedwhenapartyofhorsemenwereseencomingtowardsus.AstheyapproachedourencampmenttheyplayedtheJeridwiththeirlongspears,gallopingtoandfroontheirwell-trainedmares.TheyweretheprincipalinhabitantsofTelAferwithOzairAgha,theirchief,whobroughtusapresentoflambs,flour,andfreshvegetables.The

Agharodeonalightchestnutmareofbeautifulproportionsandrarebreed.Hisdress,aswellasthatofhisfollowers,wassingularlypicturesque.HispeopleareTurcomans,asolitarycolonyinthemidstofthedesert;andalthoughtheirconnectionwiththeBedouinshastaughtthemthetongueandthehabitsofthewanderingtribes,yettheystillweartheturbanofmanyfolds,andthegayflowingrobesoftheirancestors.Theyallowtheirhairtogrowlong,andtofallincurlsontheirshoulders.

Astheeveningcrepton,Iwatchedfromthehighestmoundthesunasitgraduallysankinuncloudedsplendorbelowthesea-likeexpansebeforeme.Onallsides,asfarastheeyecouldreach,rosethegrass-coveredheapsmarkingthesiteofancienthabitations.Thegreattideofcivilisation

hadlongsinceebbed,leavingthesescatteredwrecksonthesolitaryshore.Arethosewaterstoflowagain,bearingbacktheseedsofknowledgeandofwealththattheyhavewaftedtotheWest?Wewandererswereseekingwhattheyhadleftbehind,aschildrengatherupthecoloredshellsonthedesertedsands.Atmyfeettherewasabusyscene,makingmorelonelytheunbrokensolitudewhichreignedinthevastplainaround,wheretheonlythinghavinglifeormotionweretheshadowsoftheloftymoundsastheylengthenedbeforethedecliningsun.Abovethreeyearsbefore,when,watchingtheapproachofnightfromtheoldcastleofTelAfer,Ihadcountednearlyonehundredruins[109],now,wheninthemidstofthem,nolessthandoublethatnumberwereseenfromTelJemal.Ourtentscrowningthelipofanaturalamphitheatrebrightwithflowers,OzairAghaandhisTurcomansseatedonthegreenswardinearnesttalkwiththeArabchief,

thehorsespicketedinthelonggrass,theBedouinsdrivinghometheircamelsforthenight'srest,theservantsandgroomsbusiedwiththeirvariouslabors;suchwastheforegroundtoapictureofperfectcalmandstillness.InthedistancewasthelongrangeoftheSinjarhills,furrowedwithcountlessravines,eachmarkedbyadarkpurpleshadow,graduallymeltingintotheeveninghaze.

Wehadalongday'smarchbeforeustothevillageofSinjar.Thewildernessappearedstillmorebeautifulthanithaddonethedaybefore.Therecentstormhadgivennewlifetoavegetationwhich,concealed

7/31/2019 Ninevah


beneathacrustofapparentlyfruitfulearth,onlywaitsforaspringshowertoburst,asifbyenchantment,throughthethirstysoil.Hereandtheregrewpatchesofashrub-likeplantwithanedibleroot,havingasharppungenttastelikemustard,eatenrawandmuchrelishedbytheBedouins.Amongthemlurkedgameofvariouskinds.Troopsofgazellessprangfromthelowcover,andboundedovertheplain.Thegreyhoundscoursedhares;thehorsemenfollowedawildboarofenormoussize,andnearlywhitefromage;andtheDoctor,whowasthesportsmanoftheparty,shotabustard,withabeautifulspeckledplumage,andaruffoflongfeathersrounditsneck.

WerodeinadirectlinetotheBelledSinjar,theresidenceofthegovernorofthedistrict.Therewasnobeatentrack,andthecamelswanderedalongastheylisted,croppingastheywenttheyounggrass.Thehorsemenandfootmen,too,scatteredthemselvesovertheplaininsearchofgame.War-songswerechanted,andgeneralhilarityprevailed.ThemoresedateBedouinssmiledincontemptatthesenoisyeffusionsofjoy,onlyworthyoftribeswhohavetouchedtheplough;buttheyindulgedinnolesskeen,thoughmoresuppressed,emotionsofdelight.EventheTiyaricaughtthegeneralenthusiasm,andsungtheirmountainsongsastheywalkedalong.

Aswedrewneartothefootofthehillswefoundalargeencampment,formedpartlybyJeboursbelongingtoSheikhAbdul-Azeez,andpartlybya

SinjartribecalledMendka,underachiefknownasthe"Effendi,"whoenjoysconsiderableinfluenceinthisdistrict.

Idismountedatashortdistancefromtheencampment,toavoidabreachofgoodmanners,astorefusetoeatbread,ortospendthenight,afteralightingnearatent,wouldbethoughtagraveslightuponitsowner.Thecaravancontinueditsjourneytowardsthevillage.Iwassoonsurroundedbytheprincipalpeopleofthecamp;amongstthemwasoneofmyoldworkmen,Khuther,whonowcultivatedasmallplotofgroundinthedesert.ItwaswithdifficultythatIresistedtheentreatiesoftheEffenditopartakeofhishospitality,andwedidnotreachtheBelleduntilafterthesunhadgonedown,thecaravanhavingbeentenhoursinunceasingmarch.

Ihadscarcelyenteredmytentwhenthegovernorofthedistrict,whoresidesinasmallmoderncastlebuiltonthehill-side,cametoseeme.HewasaTurkishofficerbelongingtothehouseholdofKiamilPasha,andcomplainedbitterlyofhissolitude,ofthedifficultiesofcollectingthetaxes,andofdealingwiththeBedouinswhohauntedtheplains.Hewasalmostshutupwithinthewallsofhiswretchedfort,incompanywithagarrisonofascoreofhalf-starvedAlbanians.Thisstateofthingswaschieflyowingtothemisconductofhispredecessor,who,whentheinhabitantsoftheSinjarwerequietandobedient,hadtreacherouslyseizedtwooftheirprincipalchiefs,MahmoudandMurad,andhadcarriedtheminchainstoMosul,wheretheyhadbeenthrownintoprison.Adeputationhavingbeensenttoobtaintheirrelease,Ihadbeenableto

intercedewithKiamilPashaintheirbehalf,andnowboretotheirfollowersthewelcomenewsoftheirspeedyreturntotheirhomes.

Earlyonthefollowingmorning,Ireturnedthevisitofthegovernor,and,fromthetowerofthesmallcastle,tookbearingsoftheprincipalobjectsintheplain.ThethreeremarkablepeaksrisinginthelowrangeofKebriteeyah,behindAbouKhameera,werestillvisibleintheextremedistance,andenabledmetofixwithsomeaccuracythepositionofmanyruins.AboutfourorfivemilesdistantfromtheBelled,isanotherlargegroupofmounds,resemblingthatofAbouKhameera,calledbytheBedouins

7/31/2019 Ninevah


simplythe"Hosh,"thecourtyardorinclosure.

Theruinsoftheancienttown,knowntotheArabsas"ElBelled,"or_the_ city,aredividedintotwodistinctpartsbyarangeofrockyhills,which,however,arecleftinthecentrebythebedofatorrent,forminganarrowravinebetweenthem.Theruinsare,undoubtedly,thoseofthetownofSinjar,thecapitalofanArabprincipalityinthetimeoftheCaliphs.Itsprincesfrequentlyassertedtheirindependence,coinedmoney,andruledfromtheKhabourandEuphratestotheneighbourhoodofMosul.TheprovincewasincludedwithinthedominionsofthecelebratedSaleh-ed-din(theSaladinoftheCrusades),andwasmorethanoncevisitedbyhim.TheruinsofSinjararealsobelievedtorepresenttheSingaraoftheRomans.OncoinsstruckundertheEmperorGordian,andbearinghiseffigywiththatoftheempressTranquillina,thiscityisrepresentedbyafemalewearingamuralcrownsurmountedbyacentaur,seatedonahill_withariveratherfeet_(?).AccordingtotheArabgeographers,theSinjarwascelebratedforitspalms.Thistreeisnolongerfoundthere,nordoesitbearfruit,Ibelieve,anywheretothenorthofTekritinMesopotamia.

Wishingtovisitthevillagesofthe_Shomal_,ornorthernsideofthemountain,andatthesametimetoputanend,ifpossible,tothebloodshedbetweentheirinhabitants,andtoinducethemtosubmittothegovernor,IquittedtheBelledintheafternoon,accompaniedbyCawalYusufandhisYezidicompanions,Mr.andMrs.R.,theDoctor,andMr.

Cooper.Wefollowedaprecipitouspathwayalongthehill-sidetoMirkan,thevillagedestroyedbyTahyarPashaonmyfirstvisittotheSinjar.[110]Mirkanwasinopenrebellion,andhadrefusedbothtopaytaxesandtoreceivetheofficerofthePashaofMosul.Iwas,atfirst,somewhatdoubtfulofourreception.Esau,thechief,cameout,however,tomeetme,andledustohishouse.Weweresoonsurroundedbytheprincipalmenofthevillage.Theywerealsoatwarwiththetribesofthe"Shomal."SecondedbyCawalYusuf,Iendeavoredtomakethemfeelthatpeaceandunionamongstthemselveswasessentialtotheirwelfare;andafteralengtheneddiscussionthechiefconsentedtoaccompanymetotheneighbouringvillageofBukra,withwhoseinhabitantshispeoplehadbeenforsometimeatwar.

Mirkanhadbeenpartlyrebuiltsinceitsdestructionthreeyearsbefore;buttheruinsandcharredtimbersofhousesstilloccupiedmuchofitsformersite.TherearetwopathwaysfromMirkantothe"Shomal,"onewindingthroughnarrowvalleys,theothercrossingtheshoulderofthemountain.Ichosethelatter,asitenabledmetoobtainanextensiveviewofthesurroundingcountry,andtotakebearingsofmanypointsofinterest.Nearthecrestofthehillwepassedawhiteconicalbuilding,shadedbyagroveoftrees.ItwasthetombofthefatherofMurad,oneofYusufscompanions,aCawalofnote,whohaddiednearthespotoftheplaguesomeyearsbefore.Thewallswerehungwiththehornsofsheep,slaininsacrifice,byoccasionalpilgrims.

Ihadlittleanticipatedthebeautyandextentoftheviewwhichopened

roundusonthetopofthepass.TheSinjarhillisasolitaryridgerisingabruptlyinthemidstofthedesert;fromitssummit,therefore,theeyerangesononesideoverthevastlevelwildernessstretchingtotheEuphrates,andontheotherovertheplainboundedbytheTigrisandtheloftymountainsofKurdistan.NisibinandMardinwerebothvisibleinthedistance.IcoulddistinguishthehillsofBaadriandSheikhAdi,andmanywell-knownpeaksoftheKurdishAlps.Behindthelowerranges,eachdistinctlymarkedbyitssharp,serratedoutline,werethesnow-coveredheightsofTiyariandBohtan.WhilsttothesouthoftheSinjarartificialmoundsappearedtoabound,tothenorthIcoulddistinguishbutfewsuch

7/31/2019 Ninevah


remains.Wedismountedtogazeuponthistrulymagnificentscenelightedupbythesettingsun.Ihaverarelyseenanyprospectmoreimpressivethantheseboundlessplainsviewedfromaconsiderableelevation.Besidestheideaofvastnesstheyconvey,thelightandshadeofpassingcloudsflittingoverthefaceoftheland,andtheshadowsastheylengthentowardsthecloseofday,produceconstantlychangingeffectsofsingularvarietyandbeauty.[111]

ItwasnightbeforewereachedBukra,wherewewerewelcomedwithgreathospitality.Thebesthouseinthevillagehadbeenmadereadyforus,andwasscrupulouslyneatandclean,asthehousesoftheYezidisusuallyare.TheeldersofBukracametomeafterwehaddined,andseatedthemselvesrespectfullyanddecorouslyroundtheroom.TheywerenotaversetothereconciliationIproposed,receivedthehostilechiefwithouthesitation,andpromisedtoaccompanymeonthemorrowtotheadjoiningvillageofOssofa,withwhichtheywerealsoatwar.Inthemorningwevisitedseveralhousesinthevillage.Theywereallneatandclean.Thewomenreceiveduswithoutconcealingtheirfaces,whichare,however,farfrompleasing,theirfeaturesbeingirregular,andtheircomplexionsallow.Thosewhoaremarrieddressentirelyinwhite,withawhitekerchiefundertheirchins,andanotherovertheirheadsheldbythe _agal_,orwoollencord,oftheBedouins.Thegirlswearwhiteshirtsanddrawers,butoverthemcolored_zabouns_,orlongsilkdresses,openinfront,andconfinedatthewaistbyagirdleornamentedwithpiecesof

silver.Theytwistgaykerchiefsroundtheirheads,andadornthemselveswithcoins,andglassandamberbeads,whentheirparentsareabletoprocurethem.ButtheYezidisoftheSinjararenowverypoor,andnearlyallthetrinketsofthewomenhavelongsincefallenintothehandsoftheTurkishsoldiery,orhavebeensoldtopaytaxesandarbitraryfines.Themenhaveadarkcomplexion,blackandpiercingeyes,andfrequentlyafierceandforbiddingcountenance.Theyareofsmallstature,buthavewellproportionedlimbsstronglyknittogether,andaremuscular,active,andcapableofbearinggreatfatigue.Theirdressconsistsofashirt,loosetrowsersandcloak,allwhite,andablackturban,frombeneathwhichtheirhairfallsinringlets.

TheYezidisare,byoneoftheirreligiouslaws,forbiddentowearthe

commonEasternshirtopeninfront,andthisarticleoftheirdressisalwayscloseduptotheneck.Thisisadistinctivemarkofthesect,bywhichitsmembersmayberecognisedataglance.ThelanguageofthepeopleofSinjarisKurdish,andfewspeakArabic.

AsthepeopleofOssofa,orUsifa,wereatwarwiththeirneighbours,andasthiswasoneoftheprincipalseatsofrebellionanddiscontent,Iwasanxioustohaveaninterviewwithitschief.ThepositionofOssofaisverypicturesque.Itstandsontheedgeofadeepravine;behinditareloftycragsandnarrowgorges,whosesidesarefilledwithnaturalcaverns.Onoverhangingrocks,toweringabovethevillage,aretwo _ziarehs_,orholyplaces,oftheYezidis,distinguishedfromafarbytheirwhiteflutedspires.Pulo,thechief,metusattheheadofthe

principalinhabitantsandledmetohishouse,wherealargeassemblywassooncollectedtodiscusstheprincipalobjectofmyvisit.ThechiefsofMirkanandBukrawereinducedtomakeoffersofpeace,whichwereaccepted,and,aftermuchdiscussion,thetermsofanamicablearrangementwereagreedtoandratifiedbygeneralconsent.Sheepwereslaintocelebratetheevent.

WepassedthenightatAldina,inthehouseofMurad,oneoftheimprisonedchiefs,whosereleaseIhadobtainedbeforeleavingMosul.Iwasabletoannouncethegoodtidingsofhisapproachingreturntohis

7/31/2019 Ninevah


wife,towhomhehadbeenlatelymarried,andwhohadgivenbirthtoachildduringhisabsence.

BelowAldinastandsaremarkable_ziareh_,inclosedbyawallofcyclopeandimensions.Intheplainbeneath,inthemidstofagroveoftrees,isthetombofCawalHussein,thefatherofCawalYusuf,whodiedintheSinjarduringoneofhisperiodicalvisitations.Hewasapriestofsanctityandinfluence,andhisgraveisstillvisitedasaplaceofpilgrimage.Sacrificesofsheeparemadethere,buttheyaremerelyinremembranceofthedeceased,andhavenoparticularreligiousmeaningattachedtothem.Thefleshisdistributedamongstthepoor,andasumofmoneyisfrequentlyadded.Approvingtheceremonyasonetendingtopromotecharityandkindlyfeeling,IgaveasheeptobesacrificedatthetomboftheCawal,andoneofmyfellowtravellersaddedasecond,thecarcasesbeingafterwardsdividedamongtheneedy.

AmessengerbroughtmewordduringthenightthatSuttumhadreturnedfromhistribe,andwaswaitingwithapartyofhorsementoescortustohistents.Idetermined,therefore,tocrossatoncetotheBelledbyadirectthoughdifficultpass.WevisitedNograyandAmeera,beforeenteringthegorgeleadingtothepass.Onlytwoothervillagesofanyimportance,SemokaandJafri,wereleftunseen.Theascentofthemountainwasextremelyprecipitous,andwewerenearlytwohoursinreachingthesummit.Wethenfoundourselvesonabroadgreenplatform,thicklywooded

withdwarfoak.Iwassurprisedtoseesnowstilllyingintheshelterednooks.OnbothsidesofusstretchedthegreatMesopotamianplains.Tothesouth,glitteringinthesun,wasasmallsaltlakeaboutfifteenmilesdistantfromtheSinjar,calledbytheArabs,Munaif.FromittheBedouins,whenintheirnorthernpastures,obtaintheirsuppliesofsalt.

WedescendedtotheBelledthroughanarrowvalley,thickwithoakandvariousshrubs,andwerenearlyfivehoursincrossingthemountain.SuttumandhisBedouincompanionswerewaitingforus,butwerenotanxioustostartbeforethefollowingmorning.AYezidisnake-charmer,withhisson,aboyofsevenoreightyearsold,cametomytentsintheafternoon,andexhibitedhistricksinthemidstofacircleofastonishedbeholders.Hefirstpulledfromabaganumberofsnakesknottedtogether,

whichthebystandersdeclaredtobeofthemostvenomouskind.Thechildtookthereptilesfearlesslyfromhisfather,andplacingtheminhisbosomallowedthemtotwinethemselvesroundhisneckandarms.TheBedouinsgazedinmutewonderattheseproceedings,butwhentheSheikh,feigningrageagainstoneofthesnakeswhichhaddrawnbloodfromhisson,seizedit,andbitingoffitsheadwithhisteeththrewthewrithingbodyamongstthem,theycouldnolongerrestraintheirhorrorandindignation.Theyutteredloudcursesontheinfidelsnake-charmerandhiskindredtotheremotestgenerations.Suttumdidnotregainhiscomposureduringthewholeevening,frequentlyrelapsingintoprofoundthought,thensuddenlybreakingoutinafreshcurseupontheSheikh,who,hedeclared,hadaverycloseandunholyconnectionwiththeevilone.ManydayspassedbeforehehadcompletelygotoverthehorrorthepoorYezidi'sfeatshad

causedhim.

Suttumhadchangedhisdeloulforawhitemareofgreatbeauty,namedAthaiba.ShewasoftheraceofKohaila,ofexquisitesymmetry,intemperdocileasalamb,yetwithaneyeoffire,andofaproudandnoblecarriagewhenexcitedinwarorinthechase.HissaddlewasthesimplestuffedpadgenerallyusedbytheBedouins,withoutstirrups.Ahalteraloneservedtoguidethegentleanimal.

WefollowedapathwayoverthebrokengroundatthefootoftheSinjar,

7/31/2019 Ninevah


crossingdeepwatercourseswornbythesmallstreams,whichlosethemselvesinthedesert.Thevillages,asontheoppositeslope,or"Shomal,"arehighuponthehill-side.Weencamped,afterashortride,uponapleasantstreambeneaththevillageofJedaila.WeremainedhereawholedayinordertovisitSuttum'stribe,whichwasnowmigratingtowardstheSinjar.Earlyinthemorningavastcrowdofmovingobjectscouldbefaintlyperceivedonthehorizon.ThesewerethecamelsandsheepoftheBoraij,followedbytheusualcrowdofmen,women,children,andbeastsofburden.Wewatchedthemastheyscatteredthemselvesovertheplain,andgraduallysettledindifferentpastures.Bymiddaytheencampmenthadbeenformed,andallthestragglerscollected.Wecouldscarcelydistinguishtheblacktents,andtheirsitewasonlymarkedbycurlingwreathsofwhitesmoke.

IntheafternoonSuttum'sfather,Rishwan,cametous,accompaniedbyseveralSheikhsoftheBoraij.Herodeonawhitedeloul,celebratedforherbeautyandswiftness.Hissaddleandtheneckoftheanimalwereprofuselyadornedwithwoollentasselsofmanycolors,glassbeads,andsmallshells,afterthemanneroftheArabsofNejd.Thewell-traineddromedaryhavingkneltatthedoorofmytent,theoldmanalighted,andthrowinghisarmsroundmyneckkissedmeonbothshoulders.Hewastall,andofnoblecarriage.Hisbeardwaswhitewithage,buthisformwasstillerectandhisfootstepsfirm.RishwanwasoneofthebravestwarriorsoftheShammar.HewasanoblespecimenofthetrueBedouin,both

incharacterandappearance.WiththeskillanddaringoftheArabwarrior,heunitedthehospitality,generosity,andgoodfaithofaheroofArabromance.

TheYezidichiefsofKerraniyahorSekkiniyah(thevillageisknownbybothnames)cametoourencampmentsoonafterRishwan'sarrival.AstheyhadafeudwiththeBedouins,Itookadvantageoftheirvisittoeffectareconciliation,bothpartiesswearingonmyhospitalitytoabstainfromplunderingoneanotherhereafter.BeinganxioustoreachtheendofourjourneyIdeclinedSuttum'sinvitationtosleepinhistent,butsendingthecaravantotheplaceappointedforournight'sencampment,Imadeadetourtovisithisfather,accompaniedbyMr.andMrs.R.,theDoctor,Mr.C.,andHormuzd.AlthoughtheBoraijwereabovesixmilesfromthe

smallrivuletofJedaila,theywereobligedtosendtoitforwater.[112]Aswerodetowardstheirtentswepassedtheircamelsandsheepslowlywanderingtowardsthestream.InthethrongwemetSahiman,theelderbrotherofSuttum.Hewasridingonabayhorse,whosefamehadspreadfarandwideamongstthetribes,andwhoseexploitswereaconstantthemeofpraiseandwonderwiththeShammar.HewasoftheraceofObeyanSherakh,abreednowalmostextinct,andperhapsmorehighlyprizedthananyotheroftheDesert.Hehadestablishedhisfamewhenbuttwoyearsold.Ferhan,withtheprincipalwarriorsoftheKhurusseh,hadcrossedtheEuphratestoplundertheAneyza.Theyweremetbyasuperiorforce,andwerecompletelydefeated.Thebestmaresofthetribefellintothehandsoftheenemy,andthebaycoltalone,althoughfollowedbythefleetesthorsesoftheAneyza,distancedhispursuers.[113]Suchnoblequalities,unitedwiththe

purestblood,renderedhimworthytobelookeduponasthepublicpropertyoftheShammar,andnosumofmoneywouldinducehisownertopartwithhim.

NeartheencampmentoftheBoraijwasagroupofmoundsresemblingineveryrespectthoseIhavealreadydescribed.TheBedouinscallthemAbou-Khaima.Arethesesingularruinsthoseoftownsoroftemples?Theirsimilarityofform,--acentremounddividedintoaseriesofterraces,ascendedbyaninclinedwayorsteps,andsurroundedbyequilateralwalls,--wouldleadtotheconjecturethattheywerefiretemples,orvast

7/31/2019 Ninevah


altars,destinedforAstralworship.Itwillbeseenhereafterthatthewell-knownruinoftheBirsNimroud,onornearthesiteofancientBabylon,isverynearlythesameinshape.WhenIcometodescribethoseremarkableremains,Iwilladdsomefurtherobservationsupontheiroriginalform.

TheBedouinswhoaccompaniedusgallopedtoandfro,engaginginmimicwarwiththeirlongquiveringspears,untilwereachedtheencampmentoftheBoraij.Rishwan,Suttum,Mijwellhisyoungerbrother,andtheeldersofthetribe,werestandingbeforethetentreadytoreceiveus.Alltheoldcarpetsandcoverletsofthefamily,andraggedenoughtheywere,hadbeenspreadoutfortheirguests.Asweseatedourselvestwosheepwereslainbeforeusforthefeast;aceremonyitwouldnothavebeenconsideredsufficientlyhospitabletoperformprevioustoourarrival,asitmighthavebeendoubtfulwhethertheanimalshadbeenslainwhollyforus.Thechiefmenoftheencampmentcollectedroundus,crouchinginawidecircleonthegrass.WetalkedofArabpoliticsandArabwar,_ghazous_(orpartyforplundering),andAneyzamaresstolenorcarriedoffinbattlebytheShammar.Hugewoodenplatters,heavywiththesteamingmessesofriceandboiledmeat,weresoonbroughtinandplacedonthegroundbeforeus.Immenselumpsoffreshbutterwerethenheapeduponthem,andallowedtomelt,thechiefoccasionallymixingandkneadingthewholeuptogetherwithhishands.Whenthedisheshadcooled[114]thevenerableRishwanstoodupinthecentreofthetent,andcalledinaloudvoiceuponeach

personbynameandinhisturntocometothefeast.WefaredfirstwithafewoftheprincipalSheikhs.Themostinfluentialmenwerenextsummoned,eachhoweverresistingthehonor,andallowinghimselftobedraggedbySuttumandMijwelltohisplace.Thechildren,asisusual,wereadmittedlast,andwounduptheentertainmentbyageneralscrambleforthefragmentsandthebones.NeitherRishwannorhissonswouldeatoftherepasttheyhadprepared,thelawsofhospitalityrequiringthatitshouldbeleftentirelytotheirguests.

AfterwehadeatenIaccompaniedMrs.R.totheharem,wherewefoundassembledthewivesanddaughtersofRishwan,ofhissons,andoftheeldersofthetribe,whohadmettogethertoseetheFranklady.Amongstthemwereseveralofconsiderablebeauty.ThewifeofSahiman,theeldest

ofthethreebrothers,wasmostdistinguishedforhergoodlooks.Theywerealldressedintheusuallongblueshirt,andstriped,orblack,abba,withablackheadkerchief,orkeffieh,confinedbyabandofspuncamel'swool.Massiveringsofsilver,adornedwithgemsandcoral,hungfromtheirnoses[115],andbraceletsinthesamemetal,andalsosetwithpreciousstones,encircledtheirwristsandankles.

Theireyesarelarge,almond-shaped,expressive,andofextraordinarybrilliancyandfire.Theysuffertheirblack,andluxurianthairtofallinclustersofcurls.Theircarriageinyouthiserectandgraceful.Theyareabletobearmuchfatigue,andshowgreatcourageandspiritinmomentsofdifficultyanddanger.Buttheirbeautyisonlythecompanionofextremeyouth.Withfewexceptions,soonaftertwenty,andthebirthof

oneortwochildren,theyrapidlychangeintothemosthideousofoldhags,thelightning-likebrightnessoftheeyealonesurvivingthegeneralwreck.Whenyoung,thedaughtersandwivesofthechiefsarewellcaredfor;theymovewiththetribeinthecoveredcamel-saddle,shadedbycarpetsfromtheraysofthesun.DaughtersarelookeduponintheDesertasasourceofstrengthandadvantage,fromthealliancestheyenablethefathertomakewithpowerfulandinfluentialchiefs,beingfrequentlythemeansofhealingfeudswhichhaveexistedformanyyears.

BeforewelefttheencampmentSuttumledbeforemeasapresentahandsome

7/31/2019 Ninevah


greycolt,whichwasasusualreturnedwitharequesttotakecareofituntilitwasrequired,thepolitewaytodeclineagiftofthisnature.[116]

Suttumhavingsaddledhisdeloulwasreadytoaccompanyusonourjourney.Ashewastobeforsometimeabsentfromhistents,heaskedtotakehiswifewithhim,andIwillinglyconsented.RathaiyahwasthesisterofSuttamelMeekh,thechiefofthepowerfultribeoftheAbde,oneoftheprincipaldivisionsoftheShammar.Shewasaladyofaveryhaughtyandimperioustemper,aspoorSuttumhadfoundtohiscost,forshecarriedmatterswithsohighahandthathehadbeencompelled,almostimmediatelyafterhismarriage,tosendbackayoungandbeautifulwifetoherfather'stent.Sherodeonthedromedarybehindherlord,acomfortableseathavingbeenmadeforherwitharugandacoverlet.

ThetrueSinjarmountainendsaboutninemilesfromJedaila,thehighridgesuddenlysubsidingintolowbrokenhills.Fromallpartsoftheplainitisaverybeautifulobject.Itslimestonerocks,woodedhereandtherewithdwarfoak,areofarichgoldencolor;andthenumberlessravines,whichfurrowitssides,formribsofdeeppurpleshadow.ThewesternpartoftheSinjarisinhabitedbytheYeziditribeofKherraniyah.Werodeovertheplaininaparallellinetothemountain,andaboutsevenoreightmilesfromit.Towardsnightfallweskirtedaridgeofverylowhillsrisingtoourleft:butnightsetinbeforewe

couldseethetents.Nosoundexceptthemournfulnoteofthesmalldesertowl,whichhasoftenmisledthewearywanderer,[117]brokethedeepsilence,norcouldwedistinguishthedistantfiresusuallymarkingthesiteofanencampment.Suttum,however,wellknewwheretheBedouinswouldhalt,andaboutanhourafterdarkweheardthewell-knownvoiceofDervish,andothersofmyworkmen,who,anxiousatourdelay,hadcomeouttoseekus.

OurencampmentwasfullofYezidisoftheKherraniyahtribe,whohadriddenfromthetentstoseeme,bringingpresentsofsheep,flour,andfigs.Theywereatwar,bothwiththeBedouinsandtheinhabitantsofthenorthernsideofthemountain.Mylargetentwassooncrowdedwithguests.Theysquatteddownonthegroundindoubleranks.ForthelasttimeI

spokeontheadvantageofpeaceandunionamongstthemselves,andIexactedfromthemasolemnpromisethattheywouldmeettheassembledtribesatthenextgreatfestivalinthevalleyofSheikhAdi,referringtheirdifferencesinfuturetothedecisionofHusseinBey,SheikhNasr,andtheCawals,insteadofappealingtoarms.IalsoreconciledthemwiththeBedouins,Suttumenteringintoanengagementforhistribe,andbothpartiesagreeingtoabstainfromliftingeachother'sflockswhentheyshouldagainmeetinthepasturesatthefootofthehills.TheinhabitantsoftheSinjararetoopowerfulandindependenttopay _kowee_,[118]orblackmail,totheShammar,who,indeed,standinmuchaweoftheirYezidienemies.

TheYezidisreturnedtotheirencampmentlateatnight,butabouta

hundredoftheirhorsemenwereagainwithmebeforethetentswerestruckinthemorning.Theypromisedtofulfiltheengagementsenteredintoonthepreviousevening,andaccompaniedmeforsomemilesonourday'sjourney.CawalYusufreturnedwiththemonhiswaybacktoMosul.Itwasagreedthatheshouldbuy,attheannualauction,theMokhatta,orrevenuesoftheSinjar,[119]andsavetheinhabitantsfromthetyrannyandexactionsoftheTurkishtax-gatherer.IwrotelettersforhimtotheauthoritiesofMosul,recommendingsuchanarrangement,asequallybeneficialtothetranquillityofthemountainandthetreasuryofthePasha.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


AfterleavingOm-el-Dhibanweenteredanundulatingcountrycrossedbydeepravines,wornbythewintertorrents.Fourhours'ridebroughtustoascantyspring;halfanhourbeyondwepassedasecond;andinfiveandahalfhourspitchedthetents,fortherestoftheday,nearasmallstream.AllthesespringsarecalledMaalaga,andrisinginthegypsumorMosulmarble,haveabrackishanddisagreeabletaste.TheBedouinsdeclare,that,althoughunpalatable,theyareexceedinglywholesome,andthateventheirmaresfattenonthewatersofJeraiba.

Suttumcametomebeforenightfall,somewhatdowncastinlook,asifaheavyweightwereonhismind.Atlength,aftervariouscircumlocutions,hesaidthathiswifewouldnotsleepunderthewhitetentwhichIhadlenther,suchluxuriesbeing,asshedeclared,onlyworthyofcityladies,andaltogetherunbecomingthewifeanddaughterofaBedouin."Sodeterminedisshe,"saidSuttum,"inthematter,that,Billah!shedesertedmybedlastnightandsleptonthegrassintheopenair;andnowsheswearsshewillleavemeandreturnonfoottoherkindred,unlessIsaveherfromtheindignityofsleepingunderawhitetent."ItwasinconvenienttohumorthefanciesoftheArablady,butasshewasinexorable,IgaveherablackArabtent,usedbytheservantsforakitchen.Underthissheetofgoat-haircanvass,openonallsidestotheair,shesaidshecouldbreathefreely,andfeelagainthatshewasaBedouin.

Wecrossed,duringthefollowingevening,abeautifulplaincoveredwithsweetsmellingflowersandaromaticherbs,andaboundingingazelles,hares,andbustards.Wereachedinabouttwohourstheencampments,whosesmokewehadseenduringtheprecedingevening.TheybelongedtoBedouinsoftheHamoudbranchoftheShammar,andhadrecentlybeenplunderingagovernmentcaravanandslaughteringthesoldiersguardingit.Theyarenotoriousfortreacheryandcruelty,andcertainlythelooksofthosewhogatheredaroundus,manyofthemgrotesquelyattiredintheplunderedgarmentsoftheslaughteredTurkishsoldiery,didnotbelietheirreputation.Theyfingeredeveryarticleofdresswehadon,tolearnitstextureandvalue.

Leavingtheirencampments,werodethroughvastherdsofcamelsandflocksofsheepbelongingtothetribe,andatlengthcameinsightoftheriver.

TheKhabourflowsthroughtherichestpasturesandmeadows.Itsbankswerenowcoveredwithflowersofeveryhue,anditswindingsthroughthegreenplainwerelikethecoilsofamightyserpent.Ineverbeheldamorelovelyscene.Anuncontrollableemotionofjoyseizedallourpartywhentheysawtheendoftheirjourneybeforethem.Thehorsemenurgedtheirhorsestofullspeed;theJeboursdancinginacircle,raisedtheircoloredkerchiefsontheirspears,andshoutedtheirwarcry,Hormuzdleadingthechorus;theTiyarisangtheirmountainsongsandfiredtheirmusketsintotheair.

ThetentsofMohammedEmin,theJebourSheikh,werepitchedundertheruinsofArban,andontherightornorthernbankoftheriver,whichwasnotatthistimefordable.Aswedrewneartothem,afterarideofnearlytwohours,theSheikhpointedintriumphtothesculptures,whichweretheprincipalobjectsofmyvisit.Theystoodalittleabovethewater'sedge,atthebaseofamoundofconsiderablesize.Wehadpassedseveraltelsandthedoublebanksofancientcanals,showingthatwewerestillamidsttheremainsofancientcivilisation.

AtlengthwestoppedoppositetotheencampmentoftheJebourSheikh,but

7/31/2019 Ninevah


itwastoolatetocrosstheriver,sometimebeingrequiredtomakereadytherafts.Weraisedourtents,therefore,forthenightonthesouthernbank.TheyweresoonfilledbyamotleygroupofBoraij,Hamoud,Assaiyah,andJebourArabs.Moghamis,Suttum'suncle,cameshortlyafterourarrival,bringingmeasapresentawell-trainedhawkandsomebustards,thefruitsofhismorning'ssport.Thefalconwasdulyplacedonhisstandinthecentreofthespacioustent,andremainedduringtherestofmysojournintheEastamemberofmyestablishment.HisnamewasFawaz,andhewasanativeofthehillsofMakhhoul,nearTekrit,celebratedfortheirbreedofhawks.Hewasofthespeciescalled"chark,"andhadbeengivenbySadoun-el-Mustafa,thechiefofthegreattribeofObeid,toFerhan,theSheikhoftheShammar,whohadbestowedhimintokenoffriendshiponMoghamis.

ASheikhoftheHamoudalsobroughtusawildass-colt,scarcelytwomonthsold,whichhadbeencaughtwhilstfollowingitsdam,andhadbeensincefeduponcamel'smilk.Indeed,nearlyallthosewhocametomytenthadsomeoffering,eithersheep,milk,curds,orbutter;eventheArabboyshadcaughtforustheelegantjerboa,whichburrowsinvastnumbersonthebanksoftheriver.Suitablepresentsweremadeinreturn.Dinnerwascookedforallourguests,andwecelebratedourfirstnightontheKhabourbygeneralfestivities.

CHAPTERXII.

ARBAN.--OURENCAMPMENT.--SUTTUMANDMOHAMMEDEMIN.--WINGEDBULLSDISCOVERED.--EXCAVATIONSCOMMENCED.--THEIRRESULTS.--DISCOVERYOFSMALLOBJECTS--OFSECONDPAIROFWINGEDBULLS--OFLION--OFCHINESEBOTTLE--OFVASE--OFEGYPTIANSCARABS--OFTOMBS.--THESCENEOFTHECAPTIVITY.

OnthemorningafterourarrivalinfrontoftheencampmentofSheikhMohammedEmin,wecrossedtheKhabouronasmallraft,andpitchedour

tentsonitsright,ornorthern,bank.Ifoundtheruinstoconsistofalargeartificialmoundofirregularshape,washed,andindeedpartlycarriedawaybytheriver,whichwasgraduallyunderminingtheperpendicularcliffleftbythefallingearth.TheJebourswereencampedtothewestofit.Ichoseforourtentsarecess,likeanamphitheatre,facingthestream.Wewerethussurroundedandprotectedonallsides.Behindusandtotheeastrosethemound,andtothewestwerethefamilyanddependentsofMohammedEmin.IntheDesert,beyondtheruins,werescatteredfarandwidethetentsoftheJebours,andofseveralArabtribeswhohadplacedthemselvesundertheirprotection;theSherabeen,wanderingkeepersofherdsofbuffaloes;theBuggara,drivenbytheincursionsoftheAneyzafromtheirpasturegroundsatRas-al-Ain(thesourceoftheKhabour);andsomefamiliesoftheJays,alargeclan

residinginthedistrictofOrfa,whosesheikhhavingquarrelledwithhisbrotherchiefshadnowjoinedMohammedEmin.Fromthetopofthemoundtheeyerangedoveralevelcountrybrightwithflowers,andspottedwithblacktents,andinnumerableflocksofsheepandcamels.DuringourstayatArbanthecolorofthesegreatplainswasundergoingacontinualchange.Afterbeingforsomedaysofagoldenyellow,anewfamilyofflowerswouldspringup,anditwouldturnalmostinanighttoabrightscarlet,whichwouldagainassuddenlygivewaytothedeepestblue.Thenthemeadowswouldbemottledwithvarioushues,orwouldputontheemeraldgreenofthemostluxuriantofpastures.Theglowingdescriptions

7/31/2019 Ninevah


IhadsofrequentlyreceivedfromtheBedouinsofthebeautyandfertilityofthebanksoftheKhabourweremorethanrealised.

Intheextremedistance,totheeastofus,roseasolitaryconicalelevation,calledbytheArabs,Koukab.Infront,tothesouth,wasthebeautifulhilloftheSinjar,evervaryingincolorandinoutlineasthedecliningsunleftfreshshadowsonitsfurrowedsides.Behindus,andnotfardistant,wasthelow,woodedrangeofAbd-ul-Azeez.Artificialmounds,smallerinsizethanArban,rosehereandthereabovethethinbeltoftreesandshrubsskirtingtheriverbank.

Ihadbroughtwithmeatentlargeenoughtoholdfulltwohundredpersons,andintendedasa"museef,"orplaceofreception,alwaysopentothewayfarerandtheArabvisitor;forthefirstdutyofatravellerwishingtomixwithtrueBedouins,andtogainaninfluenceoverthem,istheexerciseofhospitality.Thisgreatpavilionwaspitchedinthecentreofmyencampment,withitsentrancefacingtheriver.TotherightwerethetentsoftheCawassandservants;onefittedupexpresslyfortheDoctortoreceivepatients,ofwhomtherewasnolackatalltimes,andtheblackArabtentofRathaiyah,whowouldnotmixwiththeJebours.Totheleftwerethoseofmyfellowtravellers,andabouttwohundredyardsbeyond,neartheexcavations,myownprivatetent,towhichIretiredduringtheday,whenwishingtobeundisturbed,andtowhichtheArabswerenotadmitted.Init,also,weusuallybreakfastedanddined,except

whentherewereanyArabguestsofdistinctionwithwhomitwasnecessarytoeatbread.Infrontofourencampment,andbetweenitandtheriver,wasasmalllawn,onwhichwerepicketedourhorses.SuttumandMohammedEminusuallyeatwithus,andsoonbecameperfectlyreconciledtoknivesandforks,andtheotherrestraintsofcivilisedlife.Suttum'stactandintelligencewereindeedremarkable.Nothingescapedhishawk-likeeye.Afewhourshadenabledhimtoformacorrectestimateofthecharacterofeachoneoftheparty,andhehaddetectedpeculiaritieswhichmighthaveescapedthenoticeofthemostobservantEuropean.ThemostpolishedTurkwouldhavebeenfarlessathomeinthesocietyofladies,andduringthewholeofourjourneyhenevercommittedabreachofmanners,onlyacquiredafterafewhours'residencewithus.Asacompanionhewasdelightful,--fullofanecdote,ofuncloudedspirits,acquaintedwiththe

historyofeveryBedouintribe,theirpoliticsandtheirwars,andintimatewitheverypartoftheDesert,itsproductionsanditsinhabitants.ManyhappyhoursIspentwithhim,seated,afterthesunwentdown,onamoundoverlookingthegreatplainandthewindingriver,listeningtotherichflowofhisgracefulBedouindialect,tohiseloquentstoriesofArablife,andtohisanimateddescriptionsofforays,wars,andsinglecombats.

MohammedEmin,theSheikhoftheJebours,wasagood-naturedportlyArab,inintelligenceinferiortoSuttum,andwantingmanyofthequalitiesofthepureBedouin.DuringourintercourseIhadeveryreasontobesatisfiedwithhishospitalityandthecordialaidheaffordedme.TheJebourchiefwasacompletepatriarchinhistribe,havingnolessthan

sixteenchildren,ofwhomsixsonswerehorsemenandtheownersofmares.Theyoungest,aboyoffouryearsold,namedSultan,wasashandsomeanddirtyasthebestofArabchildren.Hismother,whohadrecentlydied,wasthebeautifulsisterofAbd-rubbou.Ichancedtobeherbrother'sguestwhenthenewsofherdeathwasbroughttohim.AnArabofthetribe,wearyandwayworn,enteredthetentandseatedhimselfwithoutgivingtheusualsalutation;allpresentknewthathehadcomefromtheKhabourandfromdistantfriends.Hissilencearguedeviltidings.Byanindirectremark,immediatelyunderstood,hetoldhiserrandtoonewhosatnexthim,andwhointurnwhisperedittoSheikhIbrahim,thechief'suncle.Theoldman

7/31/2019 Ninevah


saidaloud,withasigh,"ItisthewillandmercyofGod;sheisnotdeadbutreleased!"Abd-rubbouatonceunderstoodofwhomhespake.Hearoseandwentforth,andthewailingofthemotherandofthewomensoonissuedfromtheinnerrecessesofthetent.

Myfirstcare,aftercrossingtoArban,wastoexaminethesculpturesdescribedbytheArabs.Theriverhavinggraduallywornawaythemoundhad,duringtherecentfloods,leftuncoveredapairofwingedhuman-headedbulls,somesixfeetabovethewater'sedge,andfullfiftybeneaththeleveloftheruin.Onlytheforepartofthesefigureshadbeenexposedtoview,andMohammedEminwouldnotallowanyofthesoiltoberemovedbeforemyarrival.Theearthwassoonclearedaway,andIfoundthemtobeofacoarselimestone,notexceeding5-1/2feetinheightby4-1/2inlength.Betweenthemwasapavementslabofthesamematerial.Theyresembledingeneralformthewell-knownwingedbullsofNineveh,butinthestyleofarttheydifferedconsiderablyfromthem.Theoutlineandtreatmentwasboldandangular,withanarchaicfeelingconveyingtheimpressionofgreatantiquity.TheyborethesamerelationtothemoredelicatelyfinishedandhighlyornamentedsculpturesofNimroud,astheearliestremainsofGreekartdototheexquisitemonumentsofPhidiasandPraxiteles.Thehumanfeatureswereunfortunatelymuchinjured,butsuchpartsasremainedweresufficienttoshowthatthecountenancehadapeculiarcharacter,differingfromtheAssyriantype.Thesocketsoftheeyesweredeeplysunk,probablytoreceivethewhiteandtheballofthe

eyeinivoryorglass.Thenosewasflatandlarge,andthelipsthickandoverhanginglikethoseofanegro.Humanearswereattachedtothehead,andbull'searstothehornedcap,whichwaslowandsquareatthetop,nothighandornamentedlikethoseofKhorsabadandKouyunjik,norroundedlikethoseofNimroud.Thehairwaselaboratelycurled,asinthepureAssyriansculptures,thoughmorerudelycarved.Thewingsweresmallinproportiontothesizeofthebody,andhadnotthemajesticspreadofthoseofthebullsthatadornedthepalacesofNineveh.

Itwouldappearfromthemthatthesculpturesbelongedtothepalaceofakingwhosenamehasbeenfoundonnoothermonument.Notitlesareattachedtoit,noteventhatof"king;"noristhecountryoverwhichhereignedmentioned;sothatsomedoubtmayexistastowhetheritreallybe

aroyalname.

Thegreataccumulationofearthabovethesesculpturesprovesthat,sincethedestructionoftheedificeinwhichtheystood,otherhabitationshavebeenraisedonitsruins.Arban,indeed,ismentionedbytheArabgeographersasaflourishingcity,inasingularlyfertiledistrictoftheKhabour.Partofaminaret,whosewallswerecasedwithcoloredtiles,andornamentedwithcuficinscriptionsinrelief,likethatoftheSinjar,andthefoundationsofbuildings,arestillseenonthemound;andatitsfoot;onthewesternside,aretheremainsofabridgewhichoncespannedthestream.Buttheriverhaschangeditscourse.Thepiers,adornedwithelegantlyshapedarabesquecharacters,arenowonthedryland.

Iwilldescribe,atonce,theresultsoftheexcavationscarriedonduringthethreeweeksourtentswerepitchedatArban.TopleasetheJebourSheikh,andtokeeparoundourencampment,forgreatersecurity,abodyofarmedmen,whenthetribechangedtheirpastures,IhiredaboutfiftyofMohammedEmin'sArabs,andplacedtheminpartieswiththeworkmenwhohadaccompaniedmefromMosul.Tunnelswereopenedbehindthebullsalreadyuncovered,andinvariouspartsoftheruinsonthesamelevel.Trencheswerealsodugintothesurfaceofthemound.

BehindthebullswerefoundvariousAssyrianrelics;amongstthemacopper

7/31/2019 Ninevah


bell,likethosefromNimroud,andfragmentsofbrickswitharrow-headedcharacterspaintedyellowwithwhiteoutlines,uponapalegreenground.Inotherpartsofthemoundwerediscoveredglassandpottery,someAssyrian,othersofamoredoubtfulcharacter.Severalfragmentsofearthenware,ornamentedwithflowersandscrollwork,andhighlyglazed,hadassumedthebrilliantandvariediridescenceofancientglass.[120]

Itwasnaturaltoconclude,fromtheusualarchitecturalarrangementofAssyrianedifices,thatthetwobullsdescribedstoodatanentrancetoahallorchamber.Wesearchedinvainfortheremainsofwalls,althoughdiggingforthreedaystotherightandleftofthesculptures,aworkofconsiderabledifficultyinconsequenceoftheimmenseheapofsuperincumbentearth.Ithendirectedatunneltobecarriedtowardsthecentreofthemound,hopingtofindacorrespondingdoorwayopposite.Iwasnotdisappointed.Onthefifthdayasimilarpairofwingedbullswerediscovered.Theywereofthesamesize,andinscribedwiththesamecharacters.Apartofonehavingbeenoriginallybrokenoff,eitherincarvingthesculptureorinmovingit,afreshpieceofstonehadbeencarefullyfittedintoitsplace.Ialsodugtotherightandleftofthesesculpturesforremainsofwalls,butwithoutsuccess,andthenresumedthetunnellingtowardsthecentreofthemound.Inafewdaysalion,withextendedjaws,sculpturedinthesamecoarselimestone,andinthesameboldarchaicstyleasthebulls,wasdiscovered.Ithadfivelegs,andthetailhadtheclawattheend,asintheNinevehbas-reliefs.Inheightit

wasnearlythesameasthebulls.Isearchedinvainfortheonewhichmusthaveformedtheoppositesideofthedoorway.

[Illustration:LiondiscoveredatArban.]

Withtheexceptionofthesesculptures,noremainsofbuildingwerefoundinthispartofthemound.Inanothertunnel,openedatsomedistancefromthebulls,halfofahumanfigureinreliefwasdiscovered.[121]Thefacewasinfull.Onehandgraspedaswordordagger;theotherheldsomeobjecttothebreast.Thehairandbeardwerelongandflowing,andornamentedwithaprofusionofcurlsasintheAssyrianbas-reliefs.Thehead-dressappearedtoconsistofakindofcircularhelmet,endinginasharppoint.Thetreatmentandstylemarkedthesculpturetobeofthe

sameperiodasthebullandlion.

SuchwerethesculpturesdiscoveredinthemoundofArban.Amongstsmallerobjectsofdifferentperiodsweresomeofconsiderableinterest,jars,vases,funeralurns,highly-glazedpottery,andfragmentsofglass.Inatrench,onthesouthsideoftheruin,wasfoundasmallgreenandwhitebottle,inscribedwithChinesecharacters.

Ajar,aboutfourfeethigh,incoarsehalf-bakedclay,wasdugoutofthecentreofthemound.Thehandleswereformedbyrudely-designedhumanfigures,andthesidescoveredwithgrotesquerepresentationsofmenandanimals,andarabesqueornamentsinrelief.

Vasesofthesamematerial,ornamentedwithfigures,arefrequentlydiscoveredindiggingthefoundationsofhousesinthemoderntownofMosul.Theyappeartobelongtoacomparativelyrecentperiod,laterprobablythantheChristianera,butprevioustotheAraboccupation.Astheyhaveuponthemhumanfigures,dressedinapeculiarcostume,consistingofahighcapandembroideredrobes,IshouldattributethemtothePersians.AvasesimilarinsizeandshapetothatofArban,andalsocoveredwithgrotesquerepresentationsofmonstrousanimals,thefinestspecimenIhaveseenofthisclassofantiquities,wasfoundbeneaththefoundationsoftheveryancientChaldæanchurchofMeskintaatMosul,when

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thatedificewaspulleddownandrebuilttwoyearsago.ItwasgiventomebytheCatholicChaldæanPatriarch,towhomitbelongedaschiefofthecommunity,butwasunfortunatelydestroyed,withotherinterestingrelics,bytheArabs,whoplunderedaraftladenwithantiquities,onitswaytoBaghdad,aftermyreturntoEurope.

AmongstotherrelicsdiscoveredatArbanwere,alargecopperring,apparentlyAssyrian;anornamentinearthenware,resemblingthepine-coneoftheAssyriansculptures;abull'sheadinterracotta;fragmentsofpaintedbricks,probablyofthesameperiod;andseveralEgyptianscarabæi.ItissingularthatengravedstonesandscarabsbearingEgyptiandevices,andinsomeinstancesevenroyalcartouches,shouldhavebeenfoundonthebanksoftheKhabour.SimilarobjectsweresubsequentlydugupatNimroud,andbroughttomebytheArabsfromvariousruinsinAssyria.

Itmaybewellforthereadertoobserveinthisconnection,thatmostoftheEgyptianrelicsdiscoveredintheAssyrianruinsareofthetimeofthe18thEgyptiandynasty,orofthe15thcenturybeforeChrist;aperiodwhen,aswelearnfromEgyptianmonuments,therewasacloseconnectionbetweenAssyriaandEgypt.

Severaltombswerealsofoundintheruins,consistingprincipallyofboxes,orsarcophagi,ofearthenware,likethoseexistingabovethe

AssyrianpalacesnearMosul.Some,however,wereformedbytwolargeearthenjars,likethecommonEasternvesselforholdingoil,laidhorizontally,andjoinedmouthtomouth.TheseterracottacoffinsappeartobeofthesameperiodasthosefoundinallthegreatruinsonthebanksoftheriversofMesopotamia,andarenotAssyrian.Theycontainedhumanremainsturnedtodust,withtheexceptionoftheskullandafewofthelargerbones,andgenerallythreeorfoururnsofhighly-glazedbluepottery.

FewerremainsandobjectsofantiquitywerediscoveredinthemoundsontheKhabourthanIhadanticipated.Theyweresufficient,however,toprovethattheruinsare,onthewhole,ofthesamecharacterasthoseonthebanksoftheTigris.ThattheAssyrianempireatonetimeembracedthe

wholeofMesopotamia,includingthecountrywateredbytheKhabour,therecanbenodoubt,asindeedisshownbytheinscriptionsonthemonumentsofNineveh.WhetherthesculpturesatArbanbelongtotheperiodofAssyriandomination,ortoadistinctnationafterwardsconquered,orwhethertheymaybelookeduponascotemporarywith,ormoreancientthan,thebas-reliefsofNimroud,arequestionsnotsoeasilyanswered.Thearchaiccharacterofthetreatmentanddesign,thepeculiarformofthefeatures,therudethoughforcibledelineationofthemuscles,andthesimplicityofthedetails,certainlyconveytheimpressionofgreaterantiquitythananymonumentshithertodiscoveredinAssyriaProper.[122]

Adeepinterest,atthesametime,attachestotheseremainsfromthesitetheyoccupy.TotheChebarweretransportedbytheAssyrianking,after

thedestructionofSamaria,thecaptivechildrenofIsrael,andonitsbanks"theheavenswereopened"toEzekiel,and"hesawvisionsofGod,"andspakehispropheciestohisbrotherexiles.[123]AroundArbanmayhavebeenpitchedthetentsofthesorrowingJews,asthoseoftheArabswereduringmyvisit.Tothesamepasturestheyledtheirsheep,andtheydrankofthesamewaters.Thenthebanksoftheriverwerecoveredwithtownsandvillages,andapalace-templestillstoodonthemound,reflectedinthetransparentstream.Wehave,however,butonenameconnectedwiththeKhabourrecordedinScripture,thatofTel-Abib,"themoundofAbib,or,oftheheapsofearsofcorn,"butwhetheritappliestoatown,ortoa

7/31/2019 Ninevah


simpleartificialelevation,suchasstillabound,andarestillcalled"tels,"isamatterofdoubt.IsoughtinvainforsometraceofthewordamongstthenamesnowgivenbythewanderingArabtothevariousruinsontheKhabouranditsconfluents.[124]

WeknowthatJewsstilllingeredinthecitiesoftheKhabouruntillongaftertheArabinvasion;andwemayperhapsrecogniseintheJewishcommunitiesofRas-al-Ain,atthesourcesoftheriver,andofKarkisia,orCarchemish,atitsconfluencewiththeEuphrates,visitedanddescribedbyBenjaminofTudela,inthelatterendofthetwelfthcenturyoftheChristianæra,thedescendantsofthecaptiveIsraelites.

Butthehandoftimehaslongsinceswepteventhisremnantaway,withthebusycrowdswhichthrongedthebanksoftheriver.Fromitsmouthtoitssource,fromCarchemishtoRas-al-Ain,thereisnownosinglepermanenthumanhabitationontheKhabour.ItsrichmeadowsanditsdesertedruinsarealikebecometheencampingplacesofthewanderingArab.

CHAPTERXIII.

RESIDENCEATARBAN.--MOHAMMEDEMIN'STENT.--THEAGAYDAT.--OUR

TENTS.--BREAD-BAKING.--FOODOFTHEBEDOUINS.--THINBREAD.--THEPRODUCEOFTHEIRFLOCKS.--DISEASESAMONGSTTHEM.--THEIRREMEDIES.--THEDELOULORDROMEDARY.--BEDOUINWARFARE.--SUTTUM'SFIRSTWIFE.--ASTORM.--TURTLES.--LIONS.--ABEDOUINROBBER.--BEAVERS.--RIDETOLEDJMIYAT.--APLUNDERINGEXPEDITION.--LOSSOFAHAWK.--RUINSOFSHEMSHANI.--RETURNTOARBAN.--VISITTOMOGHAMIS.

IntheprecedingchapterIhavegivenanaccountofthediscoveriesmadeintheruinsofArban,IwillnowaddafewnotesofourresidenceontheKhabour.AsketchofArablife,andadescriptionofacountrynotpreviouslyvisitedbyEuropeantravellers,maybenewandnotuninterestingtomyreaders.

DuringthetimewedweltatArban,weweretheguestsandundertheprotectionofMohammedEmin,theSheikhoftheJebours.Onthedaywecrossedtheriver,hecelebratedourarrivalbyafeastaftertheArabfashion,towhichthenotablesofthetribewereinvited.Sheep,asusual,wereboiledandserveduppiecemealinlargewoodenbowls,withamassofbutterandbreadsoakedinthegravy.Thechief'stentwasspacious,thoughpoorlyfurnished.Itwasthegeneralresortofthosewhochancedtowander,eitheronbusinessorforpleasure,totheKhabour,andwas,consequently,neverwithoutagoodlyarrayofguests;fromacompanyofShammarhorsemenoutonaforaytothesolitaryBedouinwhowasseekingtobecomeawarriorinhistribe,byfirststealingamarefromsomehostileencampment.

Amongstthestrangerspartaking,atthetimeofourvisit,oftheSheikh'shospitality,wereSerhan,achiefoftheAgaydat,andDervishAgha,thehereditaryLordofNisibin,theancientNisibis.ThetentsoftheformerwereatthejunctionoftheKhabourandEuphrates,nearKarkisia(theancientCarchemish),or,asitismoregenerallycalledbytheArabs,Abou-Psera.ThefertilemeadowsneartheconfluenceofthetworiversformerlybelongedtotheJebours,whooccupiedthebanksoftheKhabourthroughoutnearlythewholeofitscourse.AnoldfeudkeptthematcontinualwarwiththegreattribeoftheAneyza.Theylongsuccessfully

7/31/2019 Ninevah


struggledwiththeirenemies,buthavingatlengthbeenovercometheysoughtrefugeintheneighborhoodofMosul.HavingreturnedtotheKhabour,theyclaimedtheirformerrights,andMohammedEminwasinvitedbySerhantosettlethecontendingclaims;butitwastonoeffect.

DervishAgha,ofKurdishdescent,wastherepresentativeofanancientfamily,andhadcometopersuadetheJebourSheikhtoassistFerhaninrecoveringtheplunderedtreasurefromtheHamoud.MyownlargetentwasnolessaplaceofresortthanthatofMohammedEmin,andaswewereobjectsofcuriosity,Bedouinsfromallpartsflockedtoseeus.WithsomeofthemIwasalreadyacquainted,havingeitherreceivedthemasmyguestsatMosul,ormetthemduringexcursionsintheDesert.Theygenerallypassedonenightwithus,andthenreturnedtotheirowntents.Asheepwasalwaysslainforthem,andboiledwithrice,orpreparedwheat,intheArabway:iftherewerenotstrangersenoughtoconsumethewhole,therestwasgiventotheworkmenortotheneedy,asitisconsideredderogatorytothecharacterofatrulyhospitableandgenerousmantokeepmeatuntilthefollowingday,ortoserveitupasecondtimewhencold.EventhepoorestBedouinwhokillsasheep,invitesallhisfriendsandneighbourstotherepast,andiftherebestillanyremnants,distributesthemamongstthepoorandthehungry,althoughheshouldhimselfwantonthemorrow.

ThewanderingArabshavenoothermeansofgrindingtheircornthanby

handmills,whichtheycarrywiththemwherevertheygo.Theyarealwaysworkedbythewomen,foritisconsideredunworthyofamantoengageinanydomesticoccupation.Thesehandmillsaresimplytwocircularflatstones,generallyabouteighteeninchesindiameter,theupperturninglooselyuponawoodenpivot,andmovedquicklyroundbyawoodenhandle.Thegrainispouredthroughtheholeofthepivot,andtheflouriscollectedinaclothspreadunderthemill.Itisthenmixedwithwater,kneadedinawoodenbowl,andpressedbythehandintoroundballsreadyforbaking.Duringtheseprocesses,thewomenareusuallyseatedonthebareground:hence,inIsaiah(xlvii.1,2),isthedaughterofBabylontoldtositinthedustandontheground,and"totakethemill-stonestogrindmeal."

Thetribeswhoarealwaysmovingfromplacetoplacebaketheirbreadonaslightlyconvexironplate,calleda_sadj_,moderatelyheatedoveralowfireofbrushwoodorcamels'dung.Thelumpsofdougharerolled,onawoodenplatter,intothincakes,afootormoreindiameter,andlaidbymeansoftherollerupontheiron.Theyarebakedinaveryshorttime,andshouldbeeatenhot.TheKurds,whoseflourisfarwhiterandmorecarefullypreparedthanthatoftheArabs,rollthedoughintolargecakes,scarcelythickerthanasheetofpaper.Whencarefullybakedbythesameprocess,itbecomescrispandexceedinglyagreeabletothetaste.AllArabbreadisunleavened.

IfaBedouintribebemovingingreathastebeforeanenemy,andshouldbeunabletostopformanyhours,orbemakingaforcedmarchtoavoid

pursuitoveradesertwherethewellsareverydistantfromeachother,thewomensometimespreparebreadwhilstridingoncamels.Thefireisthenlightedinanearthenvessel.Onewomankneadstheflour,asecondrollsoutthedough,andathirdbakes,boysorwomenonfootpassingthematerials,asrequired,fromonetotheother.ButitisveryrarethattheBedouinsareobligedtohaverecoursetothisprocess,andIhaveonlyoncewitnessedit.

ThefuelusedbytheArabsconsistschieflyofthedwarfshrubs,growinginmostpartsoftheDesert,ofdrygrassandofcamels'dung.They

7/31/2019 Ninevah


frequentlycarrybagsofthelatterwiththemwheninsummertheymarchoververyaridtracts.OnthebanksofthegreatriversofMesopotamia,thetamariskandothertreesfurnishthemwithabundantfirewood.TheyareentirelydependentfortheirsuppliesofwheatuponthevillagesonthebordersoftheDesert,oronthesedentaryArabs,who,whilstlivingintents,cultivatethesoil.TheBedouinsusuallydrawneartothetownsandcultivateddistrictssoonaftertheharvest,tolayintheirstockofgrain.Apartyofmenandwomen,chosenbytheircompanions,thentakewiththemmoney,orobjectsforsaleorexchange,anddrivethecamelstothevillages,wheretheyloadthemandreturntotheirtents.

NearlythewholerevenueofanArabSheikh,whateveritmaybe,islaidoutincorn,riceandotherprovisions.ThequantityoffoodconsumedinthetentsofsomeofthegreatchiefsoftheBedouinsisveryconsiderable.ThecommonBedouincanrarelygetmeat.Hisfoodconsistsalmostexclusivelyofwheatenbreadwithtruffles,whicharefoundingreatabundanceduringthespring,afewwildherbs,suchasasparagus,onions,andgarlic,freshbutter,curds,andsourmilk.But,atcertainseasons,eventheseluxuriescannotbeobtained;formonthstogetherheofteneatsbreadalone.RoastedmeatisveryrarelyseeninaBedouintent.RiceisonlyeatenbytheSheikhs,exceptamongstthetribeswhoencampinthemarshesofSouthernMesopotamia,wherericeofaninferiorqualityisverylargelycultivated.Thereitisboiledwithmeatandmadeintopilaws.

TheBedouinsdonotmakecheese.Themilkoftheirsheepandgoatsisshakenintobutterorturnedintocurds:itisrarelyorneverdrankfresh,newmilkbeingthoughtveryunwholesome,asbyexperienceIsoonfoundittobe,intheDesert.Thesourmilk,orsheneena,anuniversalbeverageamongsttheArabs,iseitherbuttermilkpureanddiluted,orcurdsmixedwithwater.Camel'smilkisdrankfresh.Itispleasanttothetaste,rich,andexceedinglynourishing.Itisgiveninlargequantitiestothehorses.TheShammarandAneyzaBedouinshavenocowsoroxen,thoseanimalsbeinglookeduponasthepeculiarpropertyoftribeswhohaveforgottentheirindependence,anddegradedthemselvesbythecultivationofland.Thesheeparemilkedatdawn,orevenbeforedaybreak,andagainintheeveningontheirreturnfromthepastures.Themilkisimmediately

turnedintoleben,orboiledtobeshakenintobutter.AmongsttheBedouinsandJeboursitisconsideredderogatorytothecharacterofamantomilkacoworasheep,butnottomilkacamel.

TheSheikhsoccasionallyobtaindatesfromthecities.Theyareeithereatendrywithbreadandleben,orfriedinbutter,averyfavoritedishoftheBedouin.[125]

TothisspareandsimpledishtheBedouinsowetheirfreedomfromsickness,andtheirextraordinarypowerofbearingfatigue.Diseasesarerareamongstthem;andtheepidemics,whichrageinthecities,seldomreachtheirtents.Thecholera,whichhasoflatevisitedMosulandBaghdadwithfearfulseverity,hasnotyetstrucktheBedouins,andthey

havefrequentlyescapedtheplague,whenthesettlementsonthebordersoftheDeserthavebeennearlydepopulatedbyit.Thesmallpox,however,occasionallymakesgreathavocamongstthem,vaccinationbeingstillunknowntotheShammar,andintermittentfeverprevailsintheautumn,particularlywhenthetribesencampnearthemarshesinSouthernMesopotamia.Rheumatismprevailssomewhat,andOphthalmiaiscommonintheDesertaswellasinallotherpartsoftheEast,andmaybeattributedasmuchtodirtandneglectastoanyothercause.

TheBedouinsareacquaintedwithfewmedicines.TheDesertyieldssome

7/31/2019 Ninevah


valuablesimples,whichare,however,rarelyused.Dr.SandwithhearingfromSuttumthattheArabshadnoopiates,askedwhattheydidwithonewhocouldnotsleep."Do!"answeredtheSheikh,"why,wemakeuseofhim,andsethimtowatchthecamels."IfaBedouinbeill,orhavereceivedawound,hesometimescomestothenearesttowntoconsultthebarbers,whoarefrequentlynotunskilfulsurgeons.

Thewomensufferlittleinlabor,whichoftentakesplaceduringamarch,orwhentheyarefarfromtheencampmentwateringtheflocksorcollectingfuel.Theyallowtheirchildrentoremainatthebreastuntiltheyarenearlytwoandeventhreeyearsold,and,consequently,haverarelymanyoffspring.

SoonafterourarrivalattheKhabourIboughtadeloul,ordromedary,asmoreconvenientthanahorseformakingexcursionsintheDesert.HernamewasSahaima,andshebelongedtoMoghamis,theuncleofSuttum,havingbeentakenbyhimfromtheAneyza;shewaswelltrained,andswiftandeasyinherpaces.ThebestdeloulscomefromNedjdandtheGebelShammar.Theyaresmallandlightlymade,thedifferencebetweenthemandacommoncamelbeingasgreatasthatbetweenahigh-bredArabmareandanEnglishcart-horse.Theirpowersofenduranceareverygreat.

Thedeloulismuchprized,andtheraceiscarefullypreserved.TheArabsbreedfromthemonceintwoyears,andareveryparticularinthechoice

ofthemale.Anordinaryanimalcanworkfortwentyyears.Suttumassuredmethattheycouldtravelinthespringasmanyassixdayswithoutwater.Theircolorisgenerallylightbrownandwhite,darkercolorsandblackaremoreuncommon.Theirpaceisalighttrotkeptupformanyhourstogetherwithoutfatigue;theycanincreaseittoanunwieldygallop,aspeedtheycannotlongmaintain.Agooddeloulisworthatthemost10_l._,thecommonpriceisabout5_l._

Aftertheday'sworkatArbanIgenerallyrodewithSuttumintotheDesertonourdelouls,withthehawksandgreyhounds.Duringtheseridesoverthefloweredgreensward,theArabSheikhwouldentertainmewithstoriesofhistribe,oftheirwarsandintrigues,theirsuccessfulplunderingexpeditions,andtheiroccasionaldefeats.IntheeveningMohammedEmin

wouldjoinourpartyinthetent,remaininguntilthenightwasfarspent.

ThegrassaroundArbanhavingbeeneatenbytheflocks,theJeboursstrucktheirtentsatdawnonthe4thofApril,andwandereddowntheKhabourinsearchoffreshpastures.TheBoraij,too,movedfurtherinlandfromtheriver.DuringthewholemorningtheDesertaroundtheruinswasabusyscene;sheep,cattle,beastsofburden,men,women,andchildrenbeingscatteredfarandwideovertheplain.Bymid-daythecrowdhaddisappeared,andthemeadows,whichafewhoursbeforehadbeenteemingwithlivingthings,werenowagainleftlonelyandbare.MohammedEminalone,withafewSherabeenArabs,remainedtoprotectus.

SoonafterourarrivalattheKhabour,Adla,Suttum'sfirstwife,cametouswithherchild.AftertheSheikh'smarriagewithRathaiyah,shehadbeendrivenfromherhusband'stentbytheimperioustemperofhisnewbride,andhadreturnedtoMoghamis,herfather.HereldestsisterwasthewifeofSuttum'seldestbrotherSahiman,andheryoungest,Maizi,wasbetrothedtoSuttum'syoungestbrotherMidjwell.Thethreewereremarkablefortheirbeauty;theirdarkeyeshadthetrueBedouinfire,andtheirlongblackhairfellinclustersontheirshoulders.Theircousins,thethreebrothers,hadclaimedthemastheirbrides,accordingtoBedouinlaw.Adlanowsoughttobereconciledthroughmetoherhusband.After

7/31/2019 Ninevah


muchdifficulty,alltheoutwardformsofperfectreconciliationbetweenthetwowivesweresatisfactorilygonethrough,althoughSuttumevidentlysawthattherewasadifferentreceptioninstoreforhimselfwhentherewerenoEuropeaneye-witnesses.SucharethetrialsofmarriedlifeintheDesert![126]

OnthesixthofAprilwewitnessedaremarkableelectricalphenomenon.Duringthedayheavycloudshadbeenhangingonthehorizon,forebodingoneofthosefuriousstormswhichatthistimeoftheyearoccasionallyvisittheDesert.Lateintheafternoonthesecloudshadgatheredintoonevastcircle,whichmovedslowlyround,likeanenormouswheel,presentingoneofthemostextraordinaryandawfulappearancesIeversaw.Fromitssidesleaped,withoutceasing,forkedflamesoflightning.Cloudsspringingupfromallsidesoftheheavens,weredraggedhurriedlyintothevortex,whichadvancedgraduallytowardsus,andthreatenedsoontobreakoverourencampment.Fortunately,however,weonlyfelttheveryedgeofthestorm,--adelugeofrainandofhailofthesizeofpigeons'eggs.Thegreatrollingcloud,attractedbytheSinjarhill,soonpassedaway,leavinginundiminishedsplendorthesettingsun.

_Monday,8thofApril._TheMogdessi,oneofmyservants,caughtaturtleintherivermeasuringthreefeetinlength.TheArabshavemanystoriesofthevoracityoftheseanimals,whichattain,Iamassured,toevenalargersize,andSuttumdeclaredthatamanhadbeenpulledunderwater

anddevouredbyone,probablyanArabexaggeration.ABedouin,whohadbeenattackedbyalionwhilstresting,aboutfivehourslowerdownonthebanksoftheriver,cametoourencampment.Hehadescapedwiththelossofhismare.ThelionisnotuncommoninthejunglesoftheKhabour,andtheBedouinsandJeboursfrequentlyfindtheircubsinthespringseason.

_April9th._ABedouinyouth,thinandsickly,thoughofadaringandresolutecountenance,satinmyguesttent.Hissingularappearanceatoncedrewmyattention.Hisonlyclothingwasakerchief,verydirtyandtorn,fallingoverhishead,andaraggedcloak,whichhedrewtightlyroundhim,allowingtheendofaknottedclubtoappearaboveitsfolds.

Hisstory,whichhewasatlengthinducedtotell,wascharacteristicofBedouineducation.HewasoftheBoraijtribe,andrelatedtoSuttum.Hisfatherwastoopoortoequiphimwithmareandspear,andhewasashamedtobeseenbytheArabsonfootandunarmed.Hehadnowbecomeaman,forhewasaboutfourteenyearsold,andheresolvedtotrusttohisownskillforhisoutfitasawarrior.Leavinginhisfather'stentallhisclothes,excepthisdirtykeffiehandhistatteredaba,and,withoutcommunicatinghisplanstohisfriends,hebenthiswaytotheEuphrates.Forthreemonthshisfamilyhearingnothingofhim,believedhimtobedead.Duringthattime,however,hehadlivedintheriverjungle,feedingonrootsandherbs,hidinghimselfduringthedayinthethickets,andprowlingatnightroundthetentsoftheAneyzainsearchofamarethatmighthavestrayed,ormightbelesscarefullyguardedthanusual.Atlengththe

objectofhisambitionwasfound,andsuchamarehadneverbeenseenbefore;but,alas!herlegswereboundwithironshackles,andhehadbroughtnofilewithhim.Hesucceededinleadinghertosomedistancefromtheencampment,where,asmorningdawned,toavoiddetection,hewasobligedtoleavehisprizeandreturntohishiding-place.Hewasnowonhiswaybacktohistents,intendingtosetforthagain,afterrecruitinghisstrength,onnewadventuresinsearchofamareandspear,promisingtobewiserinfuture,andtocarryafileunderhiscloak.Suttumseemedveryproudofhisrelative,andintroducedhimtomeasapromising,ifnotdistinguished,character.[127]Itisthoughtnodisgracethusto

7/31/2019 Ninevah


stealamareaslongasthethiefhasnoteatenbreadinthetentofherowner.

_April11th._Thewatersofthisriverhadbeenrisingrapidlysincetherecentstorm,andhadnowspreadoverthemeadows.Wemovedourtents,andtheArabstookrefugeonthemound,whichstoodlikeanislandinthemidstoftheflood.TheJebourskilledfourbeavers,andbroughtthreeoftheiryoungtousalive.Theyhadbeendrivenfromtheirholesbytheswollenstream.MohammedEmineagerlyacceptedthemuskbags,whicharemuchvaluedas_majouns_bytheTurks,and,consequently,fetchalargepriceinthetowns.BeaverswereformerlyfoundinlargenumbersontheKhabour,butinconsequenceofthevalueattachedtothemuskbag,theyhavebeenhuntedalmosttoexterminationbytheArabs.MohammedEminassuredmethatforseveralyearsnotmorethanoneortwohadbeenseen.Sofuk,thegreatShammarSheikh,usedtoconsiderthemuskbagofabeaverthemostacceptablepresenthecouldsendtoaTurkishPasha,whosefriendshiphewishedtosecure.

_April12th._WerodethismorningtothetentsoftheJebours,whichhadnowbeenmovedsomemilesdowntheriver.Rathaiyahremainedbehind.ThelargetentsandtheworkmenwereleftunderthecareoftheBairakdar.AboutthreemilesfromArbanwepassedasmallartificialmoundcalledTelHamer(thered);andsimilarruinsaboundonthebanksoftheriver.ThreehoursfromArbanwereachedaremarkableartificialmoundcalledShedadi,

washedbytheKhabour.Itconsistsofaloftyplatform,nearlysquare,fromthecentreofwhichspringsacone.OnthetoparethetombsofseveralJebourchiefs,markedbytheraisedearth,andbysmalltreesnowdry,fixeduprightinthegraves.Ifoundfragmentsofpotteryandbricks,butnotraceofinscriptions.

WedidnotreachtheencampmentofMohammedEmin,spreadingthreeorfourmilesalongtheKhabour,untilaftersunset.Thechief'stentswerepitchednearamoundcalledLedjmiyat,onabendoftheriver,andoppositetoaverythick_zor_orjungle,knowntotheArabsasElBostan"thegarden,"akindofstrongholdofthetribe,whichtheSheikhdeclaredcouldresisttheattackofanynumberof_nizam_(regulartroops),ifonlydefendedbyJebours.Suttumlookeduponthegroveratherasadelicious

retreatfromtheraysofthesummer'ssun,towhichtheBoraijoccasionallyresorted,thanasaplaceforwar.

Duringtheevening,thedifferentSheikhsassembledinmytenttoplana _ghazou_,orplunderingexpedition,forthefollowingday,againsttheAgaydat,encampedatAbouPsera(Carchemish).Onthefollowingmorning,MohammedEmin,withtwoofhissons,thehorsemenofthetribe,andtheSheikhswhowerehisguests,startedontheir_ghazou_.Theplain,likeallthecountrywateredbytheKhabour,wasonevastmeadowteemingwithflowers.Gameabounded,andthefalconsoonflewtowardsabustard,whichhispiercingeyehadseenlurkinginthelonggrass.Thesunwashighintheheavens,alreadysoaringinthesky,wastheenemyofthetrainedhawk,the"agab,"akindofkiteoreagle,whosename,signifying

"butcher,"denoteshisbloodypropensities.[128]Althoughfarbeyondourken,hesoonsawHattab,anddarteduponhiminoneswoop.Theaffrightedfalconimmediatelyturnedfromhisquarry,andwithshrillcriesofdistressflewtowardsus.Aftercirclinground,unablefromfeartoalight,heturnedtowardstheDesert,stillfollowedbyhisrelentlessenemy.Invainhismaster,followingaslongashismarecouldcarryhim,wavedthelure,andcalledthehawkbyhisname;hesawhimnomore.Whetherthenoblebirdescaped,orfellavictimtothe"butcher,"weneverknew.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Suttumwasinconsolableathisloss.Heweptwhenhereturnedwithouthisfalcononhiswrist,andfordayshewouldsuddenlyexclaim,"OBej!Billah!Hattabwasnotabird,hewasmybrother."HewasoneofthebesttrainedhawksIeversawamongsttheBedouins,andwasofsomesubstantialvaluetohisowner,ashewoulddailycatchsixorsevenbustards,exceptduringthehottestpartofsummer,whenthefalconisunabletohunt.

AboutamileandahalfbelowLedjmiyat,butontheoppositebankoftheriver,wasanotherlargemoundcalledFedghami.WereachedShemshaniinanhourandthreequarters.ItisaconsiderableruinontheKhabour,andconsistsofoneloftymound,surroundedontheDesertsidebysmallermoundsandheapsofrubbish.Itaboundsinfragmentsofglazedandplainpottery,bricks,andblackbasalticstone,butIcouldfindnotracesofsculptureorinscription.

LeavingMohammedEmintocontinuehisjourneywereturnedtoourtents.OnourroadwemetMoghamis,andalargepartyofBedouinsontheirwaytojointheJebourhorsemen,fortheyalsohadbeeninvitedtotakepartintheattackontheAgaydat,andtoshareinthespoil.Theyrodetheirswiftdromedaries,twomenoneach,the_rediff_leadingthemareofhiscompanion;thatoftheSheikhwasoftheObeyanrace,andfarfamedintheDesert.Shewaswithoutsaddleorclothes,andwecouldadmiretheexquisitesymmetryandbeautyofherform.

Wedismounted,embraced,andexchangedafewwords.TheBedouinsthencontinuedtheirrapidcourseovertheDesert.Wepassedotherridersondeloulsandmares,hasteningtojointhemainbody,ortomeettheirfriendsattherendezvousforthenightnearAbouPsera.Theattackonthetentswastobemadeatdawnonthefollowingmorning,thetrueBedouinnevertakinganunfairadvantageofhisenemyinthedark.

Onthe16thofApril,MohammedEminandhissonsreturnedfromtheirexpedition,drivingbeforethemtheirspoilofcows,oxen,andmares.TheAgaydatweretakenbysurprise,andmadebutafeebledefence;therewas,consequently,littlebloodshed,asisusuallythecasewhenArabsgoontheseforays.ThefinehorseoftheJayschiefhadreceivedabadgunshotwound,andthiswastheonlycasualtyamongstmyfriends.MohammedEmin

broughtmeoneortwoofthecapturedmaresasanoffering.Theywere,ofcourse,returned,buttheyinvolvedthepresentofsilkdressestotheSheikhandhissons.

_April18th._To-daywevisitedthetentsofMoghamisandhistribe;theywerepitchedaboutfivemilesfromtheriver.Thefaceofthedesertwasasburnishedgold.Itslastchangewastoflowersofthebrightestyellowhue,andthewholeplainwasdressedwiththem.Suttumriotedintheluxuriantherbageandscentedair.Ineversawhimsoexhilarated."WhatKef(delight),"hecontinuallyexclaimed,ashismarewadedthroughtheflowers,"hasGodgivenusequaltothis?Itistheonlythingworthlivingfor.YaBej!whatdothedwellersincitiesknowoftruehappiness,theyhaveneverseengrassorflowers?MayGodhavepityon

them!"

Moghamiscladhimselfinacoatofchainmail,ofordinarymaterialsandrudeworkmanship,butstillstrongenoughtoresistthecoarseironspear-headsoftheArablance,thoughcertainlynoprotectionagainstawell-temperedblade.TheArabsweartheirarmourbeneaththeshirt,becauseanenemywouldotherwisestrikeatthemareandnotatherrider.[129]

AfterwehadenjoyedalltheluxuriesofanArabfeast,visitedthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


women'scompartments,wheremostoftheladiesofthetribehadassembledtogreetus,examinedthe"chetab,"orcamelsaddle,usedbythewivesofthechiefs,andenquiredintovariousdetailsoftheharem,wereturnedaswecame,throughtheflowersandlonggrasstoourtentsatArban.

CHAPTERXIV.

LEAVEARBAN.--THEBANKSOFTHEKHABOUR.--ARTIFICIALMOUNDS.--MIJWELL.--THECADIOFTHEBEDOUINS.--THETHAR,ORBLOODREVENGE.--CAUTIONOFARABS.--ANATURALCAVERN.--ANEXTINCTVOLCANO.--THECONFLUENTSOFTHEKHABOUR.--BEDOUINMARKS.--SULEIMANAGHA.--ENCAMPMENTATUM-JERJEH.--THETURKISHIRREGULARCAVALRY.--MOUNDOFMIJDEL.--RUINSOFTHEKHABOUR.--MOHAMMEDEMINLEAVESUS.--VISITTOKURDISHTENTSANDHAREM.--THEMILLIKURDS.--THEFAMILYOFRISHWAN.--ARABLOVE-MAKING.--THEDAKHEEL.--BEDOUINPOETSANDPOETRY.--TURKISHCAVALRYHORSES.

Thehotweatherwasrapidlydrawingnear.EnoughhadnotbeendiscoveredinthemoundofArban,norwerethereruinsofsufficientimportanceneartheriver,toinducemetoremainmuchlongerontheKhabour.Iwished,

however,toexplorethestream,asfarasIwasable,towardsitsprincipalsource,andtovisitSuleimanAgha,theTurkishcommander,whowasnowencampedonitsbanks.Inanswertoaletter,heurgedmetocometohistents,andtobringtheSheikhoftheJebourswithme,pledginghimselftoplacenorestraintwhateverontheperfectlibertyofthechief.Withsuchaguarantee,IventuredtoinviteMohammedEmintoaccompanyme.Aftermuchhesitation,arisingfromaverynaturalfearoftreachery,heconsentedtodoso.

Onthe19thofAprilwecrossedtheKhabour,andonthefollowingmorningwecommencedourjourneytotheeastward.MohammedEminwasstillindoubtastowhetherheshouldgowithmeornot;butatlast,aftermorethanonceturningback,hetookadesperateresolution,andpushedhismare

boldlyforward.Hischildrencommendedhim,withtears,tomyprotection,andthenleftourcaravanfortheirtents.

Werodefrombendtobendoftheriver,withoutfollowingitstortuouscourse.Itsbanksarebeltedwithpoplars,tamarisks,andbrushwood,theretreatofwildboars,francolins,andothergame,andstuddedwithartificialmounds,theremainsofancientsettlements.Thisdesertedthoughrichandfertiledistrictmust,atonetime,havebeentheseatofadensepopulation.ItisonlyundersuchagovernmentasthatofTurkeythatitcouldremainawilderness.ThefirstlargeruinaboveArban,andsomemilesfromitontheleftbankoftheriver,iscalledMishnak.AboutonemileandahalfbeyondisanotherruincalledAbouShalah,andthreemilesfurtherupthestreamathird,calledTaaban,uponwhicharethe

remainsofamodernfort.Afterashortday'sjourneyoffourhoursandahalf,weencampednearalargemoundnamedMehlaibiyah.

NextmorningSuttumreturnedtohistentswithRathaiyah,leavingusunderthecareofhisyoungerbrotherMijwell.AfterIhadvisitedtheTurkishcommander,whomhedidnotappearoveranxioustomeet,hewastojoinusintheDesert,andaccompanymetoMosul.Mijwellwasevenofamoreamiabledispositionthanhisbrother;andalthoughhecouldneitherreadnorwrite,hewasoneofthecadisorjudgesoftheShammar,anofficehereditaryinthefamilyoftheSaadi,attheheadofwhichisRishwan.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Theoldmanhaddelegatedthedignitytohisyoungerson,who,bytheconsentofhisbrothers,willenjoyitaftertheirfather'sdeath.Disputesofallkindsarereferredtotheserecognisedjudges.Theirdecreesareobeyedwithreadiness,andtheothermembersofthetribearerarelycalledupontoenforcethem.Theyadministerrudejustice;and,althoughpretendingtofollowthewordsoftheProphet,areratherguidedbyancientcustomthanbythelawoftheKoran,whichbindstherestoftheMohammedanworld.Themostcommonsourceoflitigationis,ofcourse,stolenproperty.Theyreceivefortheirdecrees,paymentinmoneyorinkind;andhewhogainsthesuithastopaythefee.AmongsttheShammar,ifthedisputerelatestoadeloul,thecadigetstwogazees,abouteightshillings;iftoamare,adeloul;iftoaman,amare.Variousordeals,suchaslickingared-iron,areinuse,toproveaman'sinnocence.Iftheaccused'stongueisburnt,nodoubtexistsastohisguilt.

OneofthemostremarkablelawsinforceamongstthewanderingArabs,andoneprobablyofthehighestantiquity,isthelawofblood,calledtheThar,prescribingthedegreesofconsanguinitywithinwhichitislawfultorevengeahomicide.Althoughalaw,renderingamanresponsibleforbloodshedbyanyonerelatedtohimwithinthefifthdegree,mayappeartomembersofacivilisedcommunityoneofextraordinaryrigour,andinvolvingalmostmanifestinjustice,itmustneverthelessbeadmitted,thatnopowervestedinanyoneindividual,andnopunishment,howeversevere,couldtendmoretothemaintenanceoforderandthepreventionof

bloodshedamongstthewildtribesoftheDesert.AsBurckhardthasjustlyremarked,"thissalutaryinstitutionhascontributedinagreaterdegreethananyothercircumstance,topreventthewarliketribesofArabiafromexterminatingoneanother."

Ifamancommitahomicide,thecadiendeavourstoprevailuponthefamilyofthevictimtoacceptacompensationforthebloodinmoneyorinkind,theamountbeingregulatedaccordingtocustomindifferenttribes.Shouldtheofferof"blood-money"berefused,the"Thar"comesintooperation,andanypersonwithinthe"khomse,"orthefifthdegreeofbloodofthehomicide,maybelegallykilledbyanyonewithinthesamedegreeofconsanguinitytothevictim.[130]

MijwellnowtookSuttum'splaceinthecaravan,anddirectedtheorderofourmarch.Leavingthecaravantopursuethedirectroad,IstruckacrossthecountrytothehillofKoukab,accompaniedbyMohammedEminandMijwell.Thisremarkablecone,risinginthemidstoftheplain,hadbeenvisiblefromourfurthestpointontheKhabour.SomeoftheArabsdeclaredittobeanartificialmound;otherssaid,thatitwasamountainofstones.MohammedEminwouldtellmeofasubterraneanlakebeneathit,inacavernlargeenoughtoaffordrefugetoanynumberofmen.

Afterdescendingsomefiftyfeetintothecave,wefoundourselvesonthemarginofalakeoffreshwater.Thepitchydarknesspreventedourascertainingitssize,whichcouldnothavebeenverygreat,althoughtheArabsdeclaredthatnoonecouldreachtheoppositeside.Thecaveis

frequentlyaplaceofrefugeforthewanderingArabs,andtheBedouinsencampnearitinsummertodrinkthecoolwaterofthisnaturalreservoir.

Leavingthecavernandissuingfromtheravine,wecametotheedgeofawidecrater,inthecentreofwhichrosetheremarkableconeofKoukab.Allaroundwereevidencesoftheremainsofanextinctvolcano,whichhadbeenactivewithinacomparativelyrecentgeologicalperiod,evenperhapswithinthetimeofhistory,ortradition,asthenameofthemoundamongsttheArabsdenotesajetoffireorflame,aswellasaconstellation.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Iascendedthecone,whichisabout300feethigh,andcomposedentirelyoflooselava,scoria,andashes,thusresemblingpreciselytheconerisinginthecratersofVesuviusandÆtna.Itissteepanddifficultofascent,exceptononeside,wherethesummitiseasilyreachedevenbyhorses.Within,foritishollow,itresemblesanenormousfunnel,brokenawayatoneedge,asifamoltenstreamhadburstthroughit.Anemoniesandpoppies,ofthebrightestscarlethue,covereditssides;althoughthedrylavaandlooseashesscarcelyseemedtohavecollectedsufficientsoiltonourishtheirroots.Itwouldbedifficulttodescribetherichnessandbrilliancyofthismassofflowers,theconefromadistancehavingtheappearanceofahugeinvertedcupofburnishedcopper,overwhichpouredstreamsofblood.

FromthesummitofKoukabIgazeduponasceneasvariedasextensive.BeneathmethetwoprincipalbranchesoftheKhabourunitedtheirwaters.Totheleft,orthewest,wasthetrueKhabour,theChaborasoftheancients;anameitbearsfromitssourceatRas-al-ain(_i.e._theheadofthespring).Thesecondstream,thattotheeast,istheancientMygdonius,flowingthroughNisibin.Khatouniyahanditslakewerejustvisible,backedbythesolitaryhilloftheSinjar.TheKurdishmountainsboundedtheviewtotheeast.Intheplain,andonthebanksoftherivers,rosemanyartificialmounds;whilst,intheextremedistancetothenorthcouldbedistinguishedtheflocksandblacktentsofalarge

wanderingtribe.TheywerethoseoftheChichiandMilliKurds,encampedwiththeTurkishcommanderSuleimanAgha.

Wefoundourcompanionsnearthejunctionoftherivers,wherearafthadbeenconstructedtoenableustocrossthesmallerstream.IhadsenttheBairakdartwodaysbeforetoappriseSuleimanAghaofmyintendedvisit,andtolearnhowfarIcouldwithsafetytakeMohammedEminwithmetotheTurkishcamp.Hehadreturned,andwaswaitingforme.TheAghahadgivenasatisfactoryguaranteefortheSheikh'ssafety,andhadsentanofficer,withapartyofirregulartroops,toreceiveme.

Wehadscarcelycrossedtheriverbeforealargebodyofhorsemenwereseenapproachingus.AstheydrewnighIrecognisedintheTurkish

commanderanoldfriend,"theTopal,"orlame,SuleimanAgha,ashewasgenerallycalledinthecountry.HehadbeenKiayahorlieutenant-governor,tothecelebratedInjehBairakdarMohammedPasha,and,likehisformermaster,possessedconsiderableintelligence,energy,andactivity.FromhislongconnectionwiththetribesoftheDesert,hisknowledgeoftheirmanners,andhisskillindetectinganddevisingtreacheriesandstratagems,hewasgenerallychosentoleadexpeditionsagainsttheArabs.Hewasnow,asIhavestated,endeavoringtorecoverthegovernmenttreasureplunderedbytheHamoudBedouins.

Histentswereaboutsixmilesdistant;and,afterexchangingtheusualsalutations,weturnedtowardsthem.ManyfairspeechescouldscarcelycalmthefearsofthetimidJebourSheikh.Mijwell,ontheotherhand,

rodeboldlyalong,castingcontemptuousglancesattheirregularcavalry,astheygallopedtoandfroinmimiccombat.Thedelta,formedbythetwostreams,wascoveredwithtents.Wewendedourwaythroughcrowdsofsheep,horses,cattle,andcamels.SuleimanAghalivedunderthespaciouscanvasofthechiefoftheChichiKurds.ThetentsoftheKurdishtribes,whowanderinthelowcountryatthefootofthemountainsinwinterandspring,andseekthehillpasturesinthesummer,andespeciallythoseoftheprincipalmen,areremarkablefortheirsize,andtherichnessoftheircarpetsandfurniture.Theyareoftendividedintoasmanyasfourorfivedistinctcompartments,byscreensoflightcaneorreeds,bound

7/31/2019 Ninevah


togetherwithmany-coloredwoollenthreads,disposedinelegantpatternsanddevices.Carpetshungabovethesescreenscompletethedivisions.Inthetentsofthegreatchiefsthereisaseparatecompartmentfortheservants,andoneforthemaresandcolts.

IsatashorttimewithSuleimanAgha,drankcoffee,smoked,andlistenedpatientlytoalongdiscourseonthebenefitsof_tanzimat_,whichhadputanendtobribes,treachery,andirregulartaxation,especiallyintendedforMohammedEmin,whowashoweverbynomeansreassuredbyit.Ithenadjournedtomyowntents,whichhadbeenpitcheduponthebanksoftheriveroppositeawell-woodedisland,andnearaledgeofrocksformingoneofthosebeautifulfallsofwatersofrequentinthispartoftheKhabour.

WewereencampednearthefootofalargeartificialTelcalledUmjerjeh;andontheoppositesideoftheKhabourwereothermoundsofthesamename.MyJebourworkmenbegantoexcavateintheruinsthedayafterourarrival.IremainedinmytenttoreceivethevisitsoftheKurdishchiefsandoftheHyta-Bashis,orcommandersoftheirregularcavalry.Fromthesefree-bootersIhavederivedmuchcuriousandinterestinginformationrelatingtothevariousprovincesoftheTurkishempireandtheirinhabitants,mingledwithpleasantanecdotesandvividdescriptionsofmenandmanners.Theyaregenerallyveryintelligent,frank,andhospitable.Althoughtoooftenunscrupulousandcruel,theyunitemanyofthegoodqualitiesoftheoldTurkishsoldierwithmostofhisvices.Theylove

hard-drinkingandgambling,stakingtheirhorses,arms,andevenclothes,onthemostchildishgameofchance.Theirpay,atthesametime,ismiserablysmall,rarelyexceedingafewshillingsamonth,andtheyareobligedtoplunderthepeaceableinhabitantstosupplytheiractualwants.TheraceisnowfastdisappearingbeforetheNizam,orregulartroops.

Onthesecondday,accompaniedbyMijwell,IvisitedalargemoundcalledMijdel,ontherightbankoftheriveraboutfivemilesaboveUmjerjeh.Itisaloftyplatform,surroundedbygroupsofsmallermounds,amongstwhichmaystillbetracedthelinesofstreetsandcanals.ItisaboutfourorfivemilesfromtheridgeofAbd-ul-Azeez.Theselowhills,scantilywoodedwithdwarfoak,arebrokenintoinnumerablevalleysandravines,whichabound,itissaid,withwildgoats,boars,leopards,andother

animals.AccordingtomyBedouininformants,theruinsofancienttownsandvillagesstillexist,buttheycouldonlygivemethenameofone,Zakkarah.OntheoppositesideoftheKhabour,andrunningparallelwiththeAbd-ul-Azeezrange,isanotherlineofsmallhills,calledHamma,inwhichtherearemanywells.

TheShammarBedouinsencamponthebanksofthispartoftheKhabourduringthehotmonths.ThemoundofMijdelisafavoriteresortoftheBoraijinthe"eyeofthesummer:"thewatersoftheriverarealwayscool,andthereissufficientpasturefortheflocksandherdsofthewholetribe.

AnArabwhomImetinthetentofoneoftheHyta-Bashis,pretendedthat

hewaswellacquaintedwiththeruinscalled_Verhan-Shehr_[131],ofwhichIhadsofrequentlyheardfromthenativesofMardinandtheShammar.Hedescribedthemasbeingonahillthreedaysdistantfromourencampment,andtoconsistofcolumns,buildings,andsculpturedstoneslikethoseofPalmyra.

IntheeveningMohammedEminleftus.SuleimanAghahadalreadyinvestedhimwitharobeofhonor,andhadprevaileduponhimtojoinwithFerhanintakingmeasuresfortherecoveryoftheplunderedtreasure.ThescarletcloakandciviltreatmenthadconciliatedtheJebourchief,andwhenhe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


partedwiththeTurkishcommanderinmytenttherewasanunusualdisplayofmutualcomplimentsandpledgesofeternalfriendship.Mijwelllookedonwithindignantcontempt,swearingbetweenhisteeththatallJebourswerebutdegenerate,ploughingArabs,andcursingthewholeorderof _temminahs_.[132]

WeweredetainedatUmjerjehseveraldaysbythesevereillnessofMr.HormuzdRassam.ItooktheopportunitytovisitthetentsoftheMilli,whosechief,MousaAgha,hadinvitedustoafeast.Thespacioustentofthechiefwasdividedbypartitionsofreedstastefullyinterwovenwithcoloredwool.Thecoolestpartofthesalamlikhadbeenpreparedforourreception,andwasspreadwithfinecarpetsandsilkencushions.Thechiefandhisbrothers,followedbytheirservantsbearingtraysloadedwithcups,presentedthecoffeetotheirguests.

Aftersomeconversationwewenttotheharem,andwerereceivedbyhismother,avenerablelady,withlongsilverylocksandadignifiedcountenanceanddemeanor.Herdresswasofthepurestwhiteandscrupulouslyclean.AltogethershewasalmosttheonlycomelywomanIhadseenamongstEasterntribes.Thewivesanddaughtersofthechiefs,withacrowdofwomen,werecollectedinthetent;butitwasevident,ataglance,thattheywereofadifferentracefromthewanderingtribesoftheDesert.

Theprincipalladiesledusintotheprivatecompartment,dividedbycoloredscreensfromtherestofthetent.Itwasfurnishedwithmorethanusualluxury.Thecushionswereofthechoicestsilk,andthecarpets(inthemanufactureofwhichtheMilliexcel)ofthebestfabric.Sweetmeatsandcoffeehadbeenpreparedforus,andthewomendidnotobjecttopartakeofthematthesametime.MousaAgha'smotherdescribedthevariousmarriageceremoniesofthetribe.OuraccountofsimilarmattersinEuropeexcitedgreatamusementamongsttheladies.TheMilligirlsarehighlyprizedbytheKurds.Twentypurses,nearly100_l._,wewereboastinglytold,hadbeengivenforoneofunusualattractions.Thechiefpointedoutoneofhisownwiveswhohadcosthimthatsum.Othermembersofthesameestablishmenthaddeservedalessextravagantinvestitureofmoney.Theprettiestgirlswerecalledbeforeus,andtheoldlady

appraisedeach,amidsttheloudlaughteroftheircompanions,whonodoubtrejoicedtoseetheirfriendsvaluedattheirtrueworth.Theywerealltatooedonthearms,andonotherpartsofthebody,butlesssothantheBedouinladies.TheKurdishladiesdonot,liketheMussulmanwomenofthetown,concealtheirfeatureswithaveil;nordotheyobjecttomingle,oreveneat,withthemen.DuringmystayatUmjerjehIinvitedtheharemoftheChichichief,andtheirfriends,toafeastinmytent--aninvitationtheyacceptedwitheverysignofsatisfaction.

TheMilliwereformerlyoneofthewealthiestKurdishtribes;buttheywerewantonlyplundered,andalmostreducedtowant,bytheTurkishtroopsthreeyearsago.AlthoughthePorteopenlycondemnedtheoutrage,andhadpromisedcompensation,nostepwhateverhadbeentakentorestorethe

stolenproperty,thegreaterpartofwhichhadpassedintothegovernmenttreasury.

Mijwell,duringourvisit,hadbeenseatedinacorner,hiseyeswanderingfromthetentanditsfurnituretothehorsesandmarespicketedwithout,andtotheflockspasturingaround.Hecast,everynowandthen,significantglancestowardsme,whichsaidplainlyenough,"AllthisoughttobelongtotheBedouins.Thesepeopleandtheirpropertyweremadefor _ghazous_."AswerodeawayIaccusedhimofevilintentions."Billah,yaBej!"saidhe,"thereis,indeed,enoughtomakeaman'sheartgrowwhite

7/31/2019 Ninevah


withenvy;butIhavenoweatenhisbreadunderyourshadow,andshouldevenhisstick,wherewithhedriveshiscamel,fallintomyhand,Iwouldsendittohim."Heentertainedme,aswereturnedhome,withthedomesticaffairsofhisfamily.RathaiyahhadofferedherselfinmarriagetoSuttum,andnothetoher;acommonproceeding,itwouldappear,amongtheBedouins.Mijwellratherlookeduponhisbrotherwithpity,asahenpeckedhusband.Hehimself,althoughalreadymarriedtoonewife,andbetrothedtoMaizi,whomhewouldsoonbeabletoclaim,wasprojectingathirdmarriage.Hishearthadbeenstolenbyanunseendamsel,whosebeautiesandvirtueshadbeenthethemeofsomewanderingArabrhymers,andshewasoftheFedhanAneyza,themortalenemiesoftheShammar.Herfatherwasthesheikhofthetribe,andhistentswereontheothersideoftheEuphrates.ThedifficultiesanddangersofthecourtshipservedonlytoexcitestillmoretheardentmindoftheBedouin.Hisromanticimaginationhadpicturedaperfectionofloveliness;hiswholethoughtswerenowoccupiedindevisingthemeansofpossessingthistreasure.[133]Hehadalreadyapprisedthegirlofhislovebyatrustymessenger,oneofherowntribe,livingwiththeShammar,andshehad,atlast,promisedhimherhand,ifhecouldclaimherinherowntent.Mijwellhadnowplannedaschemewhichhewaseagertoputintoexecution.WaitinguntiltheFedhanweresoencampedthathecouldapproachthemwithoutbeingpreviouslyseen,hewouldmounthisdeloul,andleadinghisbestmare,ridetothetentofthegirl'sfather.Meatwould,ofcourse,belaidbeforehim,andhavingeatenhewouldbetheguest,andundertheprotectionofthe

Sheikh.Onthefollowingmorninghewouldpresenthismare,describingherraceandqualities,tohishost,andaskhisdaughter;offering,atthesametime,toaddanyothergiftthatmightbethoughtworthyofher.Thefather,whowouldprobablynotbeignorantofwhathadpassedbetweenthelovers,wouldatonceconsenttotheunion,andgivebackthemaretohisfutureson-in-law.Themarriagewouldshortlyafterwardsbesolemnised,andanalliancewouldthusbeformedbetweenthetwotribes.SuchwasMijwell'splan,anditwasonenotunfrequentlyadoptedbyBedouinsundersimilarcircumstances.

ThelawsofDakheel,anotherveryremarkablebranchofBedouinlegislation,inforceamongsttheShammar,arenearlythesameasthoseoftheAneyzaandHedjazArabs,ofwhichBurckhardthasgivensofulland

interestinganaccount.Ihavelittle,therefore,toadduponthesubject,butitsimportancedemandsafewwords.NocustomsaremorereligiouslyrespectedbythetrueArabthanthoseregulatingthemutualrelationsoftheprotectedandprotector.AviolationofDakheel(asthislawiscalled)wouldbeconsideredadisgracenotonlyupontheindividualbutuponhisfamily,andevenuponhistribe,whichnevercouldbewipedout.Nogreaterinsultcanbeofferedtoaman,ortohisclan,thantosaythathehasbrokentheDakheel.AdisregardofthissacredobligationisthefirstsymptomofdegeneracyinanArabtribe;andwhenonceitexists,thetreacheryandvicesoftheTurkrapidlysucceedtothehonestyandfidelityofthetrueArabcharacter.TherelationsbetweentheDakheelandtheDakhal(ortheprotectorandprotected)arisefromavarietyofcircumstances,theprincipalofwhichare,eatingaman'ssaltandbread,

andclaiminghisprotectionbydoingcertainacts,orrepeatingacertainformulaofwords.AmongsttheShammar,ifamancanseizetheendofastringorthread,theotherendofwhichisheldbyhisenemy,heimmediatelybecomeshisDakheel.Ifhetouchthecanvasofatent,orcaneventhrowhismacetowardsit,heistheDakheelofitsowner.Ifhecanspituponaman,ortouchanyarticlebelongingtohimwithhisteeth,heisDakhal,unlessofcourse,incaseoftheft,itbethepersonwhocaughthim.Awomancanprotectanynumberofpersons,orevenoftents.[134]Ifahorsemanrideintoatent,heandhishorseareDakhal.AstrangerwhohaseatenwithaShammar,cangiveDakheeltohisenemy;forinstance,I

7/31/2019 Ninevah


couldprotectanAneyza,thoughthereisbloodbetweenhistribeandtheShammar.AccordingtoMijwell,anyperson,bypreviouslycallingout"Nuffo"(Irenounce),mayrejectanapplicationforDakheel.

AnArabwhohasgivenhisprotectiontoanother,whetherformally,orbyanactwhichconferstheprivilegeofDakheel,isboundtoprotecthisDakhalunderallcircumstances,eventotheriskofhisownpropertyandlife.Icouldrelatemanyinstancesofthegreatestsacrificeshavingbeenmadebyindividuals,andevenofwholetribeshavingbeeninvolvedinwarwithpowerfulenemiesbywhomtheyhavebeenalmostutterlydestroyed,indefenceofthismostsacredobligation.EventheTurkishrulersrespectalawtowhichtheymayonedayowetheirsafety,andmorethanonehaughtyPashaofBaghdadhasfoundrefugeandprotectioninthetentofapoorArabSheikh,whom,duringthedaysofhisprosperity,hehadsubjectedtoeveryinjuryandwrong,andyetwhowouldthendefythegovernmentitself,andriskhisverylife,ratherthansurrenderhisguest.TheessenceofArabvirtueisarespectforthelawsofhospitality,ofwhichtheDakheelinallitsvariousformsisbutapart.

AmongsttheBedouinswhowatchedourcamelswasoneSaoud,apoetofrenownamongstthetribes.WiththeexceptionofafewballadsthathehadformerlycomposedinhonorofSofuk,andothercelebratedShammarSheikhs,hechieflyrecitedextemporarystanzasonpassingevents,oronpersonswhowerepresent.Hewouldsitinmytentofanevening,andsinghis

versesinawild,thoughplaintive,strain,tothegreatdelightoftheassembledguests,andparticularlyofMijwell,who,likeatrueBedouin,waseasilyaffectedbypoetry,especiallywithsuchasmighttouchhisownpassionfortheunknownlady.Whenthebardimprovisedanamatoryditty,theyoungchief'sexcitementwasalmostbeyondcontrol.TheotherBedouinswerescarcelylessmovedbytheserudemeasures,whichhavethesamekindofeffectonthewildtribesofthePersianmountains.Suchverses,chantedbytheirself-taughtpoets,orbythegirlsoftheirencampment,willdrivewarriorstothecombat,fearlessofdeath,orproveanamplerewardontheirreturnfromthedangersofthe_ghazou_orthefight.Theexcitementtheyproduceexceedsthatofthegrape.HewhowouldunderstandtheinfluenceoftheHomericballadsintheheroicages,shouldwitnesstheeffectwhichsimilarcompositionshaveuponthewildnomadesofthe

East.TheartofimprovisingseemsinnateintheBedouin.AlthoughhismetreandmodeofrecitationarerudetoEuropeanears,hisrichandsonorouslanguagelendsitselftothisspeciesofpoetry,whilsthisexuberantimaginationfurnisheshimwithendlessbeautifulandappropriateallegories.Thewarsbetweenthetribes,the_ghazou_,andtheirstruggleswiththeTurks,areinexhaustiblethemesforverse,andinanArabtentthereislittleelsetoaffordexcitementoramusement.TheBedouinshavenobooks;evenaKoranisseldomseenamongstthem:itisequallyraretofindawanderingArabwhocanread.Theyhavenowrittenliterature,andtheirtraditionalhistoryconsistsofalittlemorethanthetalesofafewstorytellerswhowanderfromencampmenttoencampment,andearntheirbreadbychantingversestothemonotonoustonesofaone-stringedfiddlemadeofagourdcoveredwithsheep-skin.

Thedayofourdeparturenowdrewnigh,andSuleimanAgha,todoushonor,invitedustoageneralreviewoftheirregulartroopsunderhiscommand.ThehorsemenoftheMilliandChichiKurds,andoftheArabtribeswhoencampedwiththem,joinedtheTurkishcavalry,andaddedtotheinterestandbeautyofthedisplay.TheHyta-Bashiswere,asusual,resplendentinsilkandgold.Thereweresomehigh-bredhorsesinthefield;butthemen,onthewhole,werebadlymounted,andtheirregularcavalryisdailydegeneratingthroughouttheempire.TheTurkishGovernmenthaveunwiselyneglectedabranchoftheirnationalarmiestowhichtheyowedmostof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


theirgreatvictories,andatonetimetheirsuperiorityoveralltheirneighbours.TheabolitionoftheSpahiliks,andothermilitarytenures,has,ofcourse,contributedmuchtothisresult,andhasledtothedeteriorationofthatexcellentbreedofhorseswhichoncedistinguishedtheOttomanlightcavalry.Noeffortisnowmadebythegovernmenttokeepuptherace,andthescantypayoftheirregulartroopsisnotsufficienttoenablethemtoobtainevensecond-rateanimals.Everythinghasbeensacrificedtotheregulararmy,undoubtedlyanessentialelementofnationaldefence;butinafuturewartheTurkswillprobablyfindreasontoregretthattheyhavealtogethersacrificedittotheancientirregularhorse.

TheKurds,althoughencumberedbytheirlongflowinggarmentsandhugeturbans,arenotbadhorsemen.Mijwell,however,ashescannedthemotleycrowdwithhiseagleeye,includedthemallinoneexpressionofineffablecontempt.

[Illustration:VolcanicConeofKoukab.]

CHAPTERXV.

DEPARTUREFROMTHEKHABOUR.--ARABSAGACITY.--THEHOL.--THELAKEOFKHATOUNIYAH.--RETURNOFSUTTUM.--ENCAMPMENTOFTHESHAMMAR.--ARABHORSES.--THEIRBREEDS.--THEIRVALUE.--THEIRSPEED.--SHEIKHFERHAN.--YEZIDIVILLAGES.--FALCONS.--ANALARM.ABOUMARIA.--ESKIMOSUL.--ARRIVALATMOSUL.--RETURNOFSUTTUMTOTHEDESERT.

Mr.HormuzdRassamhavingsufficientlyrecoveredfromhisdangerousillnesstobeabletorideadeloul,andnoremains,exceptpotteryandbricks,havingbeendiscoveredinthemoundsofUmjerjeh,welefttheencampmentofSuleimanAghaonthe29thofApril,onourreturntoMosul.

WeagainvisitedtheremarkablevolcanicconeofKoukab.Aswedrewneartoit,Mijwelldetected,intheloosesoil,thefootprintsoftwomen,whichheimmediatelyrecognisedtobethoseofShammarthievesreturningfromtheKurdishencampments.ThesagacityoftheBedouinindeterminingfromsuchmarks,whetherofmanorbeast,and,fromsimilarindications,thetribe,timeofpassing,andbusiness,ofthosewhomayhaveleftthem,withmanyotherparticulars,iswellknown.InthisrespectheresemblestheAmericanIndian,thoughthecircumstancesdifferunderwhichthetwoarecalledupontoexercisethispeculiarfaculty.Theoneseeksoravoidshisenemyinvastplains,which,forthree-fourthsoftheyear,arewithoutanyvegetation;theothertrackshispreythroughthickwoodsandhighgrass.Thequicknessofperceptionistheresultofcontinualobservationandofcautionencouragedfromearliestyouth.Whilstthe

childinacivilisedcountryisstillunderthecareofitsnurse,theBedouinboyiscompelledtoexercisehishighestfaculties,andonhisprudenceandsagacitymaysometimesdependthesafetyofhistribe.

TheexpertBedouincandrawconclusionsfromthefootprintsanddungofanimalsthatwouldexcitetheastonishmentofanEuropean.Hewilltellwhetherthecamelwasloadedorunloaded,whetherrecentlyfedorsufferingfromhunger,whetherfatiguedorfresh,thetimewhenitpassedby,whethertheownerwasamanofthedesertorofthetown,whetherafriendorfoe,andsometimeseventhenameofhistribe.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


WeencampedforthenightnearthemoundofThenenir,andresumedourjourneyonthefollowingmorning.BiddingfarewelltothepleasantbanksoftheKhabour,westruckintotheDesertinthedirectionoftheSinjar.Extensivebedsofgypsum,oralabaster,suchaswasusedintheAssyrianedifices,formedforsomemilesthesurfaceoftheplain.Wesoonapproachedadensemassofreedsandrankherbage,coveringaswampcalledtheHol,whichextendsfromtheLakeofKhatouniyahtowithinashortdistanceoftheKhabour.Thisjungleisthehiding-placeofmanykindsofwildbeasts:lionslurkinit,andinthethickcovertheBedouinsfindtheircubs.

DuringourjourneyanArabjoinedus,ridingonadeloul,withhiswife.Histwochildrenwerecrammedintoapairofsaddle-bags,ablackheadpeepingoutofeitherside.Hehadquarrelledwithhiskinsmen,andwasmovingwithhisfamilyandlittlepropertytoanothertribe.

Afterasixhours'ridewefoundourselvesuponthemarginofasmalllake,whosesurfacereflectedthedeepblueofthecloudlesssky.Inthemidstwasapeninsula,joinedtothemainlandbyanarrowcauseway,andbeyonditasmallisland.Ontheformerweretheruinsofatown,whosefallingwallsandtowersweredoubledintheclearwaters.

ThesmalltownofKhatouniyahwas,untilrecently,inhabitedbyatribeof

Arabs.Afeud,arisingoutoftherivalpretensionsoftwochiefs,sprangupamongstthem.Thefactionsfought,manypersonswerekilled,andtheplacewasconsequentlydeserted,onepartyjoiningtheTaiArabsnearNisibin,theothertheYezidisofKeraniyah.Wetracedtheremainsofcultivation,andthedrywater-courses,whichonceirrigatedplotsofriceandmelonbeds.Thelakemaybeaboutsixmilesincircumference.Thewater,althoughbrackish,likenearlyallthespringsinthispartoftheDesert,isnotonlydrinkable,but,accordingtotheBedouins,exceedinglywholesomeformanandbeast.Itaboundsinfish,someofwhicharesaidtobeofveryconsiderablesize,andwaterfowlandwaders,ofvariouskinds,congregateontheshores.

WehadscarcelyresumedourmarchinthemorningwhenwespiedSuttumand

Khoraifcomingtowardsus,andurgingtheirfleetmarestothetopoftheirspeed.AJebour,leavingourencampmentatUmjerjeh,whenHormuzdwasdangerouslyill,hadspreadareport[135]intheDesert,thathewasactuallydead.Togiveadditionalauthenticitytohistalehehadminutelydescribedtheprocessbywhichmycompanion'sbodyhadbeenfirstsalted,andthensenttoFrankistaninabox,onacamel.Suttum,aswemet,showedthemostlivelysignsofgrief;butwhenhesawthedeadmanhimselfrestoredtolife,hisjoyandhisembracesknewnobounds.

Werodeoveralowundulatingcountry,atthefootoftheSinjarhills,everydellandravinebeingabedofflowers.AboutfivemilesfromKhatouniyahwepassedasmallreedystream,calledSuffeyra,onwhichtheBoraij(Suttum'stribe)hadbeenencampedonthepreviousday.Theyhad

nowmovedfurtherintotheplain,andwestoppedattheirwatering-place,abrackishrivuletcalledSayhel,theirtentsbeingaboutthreemilesdistantfromusintheDesert.Theirmares,camels,andsheepcametoSayhelforwater,andduringthewholedaytherewasoneendlesslineofanimalspassingtoandfrobeforeourencampment.Isatwatchingthemfrommytent.Aseachmareandhorsestoppedtodrinkatthetroubledstream,Suttumnameditsowneranditsbreed,anddescribeditsexploits.Themaresweregenerallyfollowedbytwoorthreecolts,whoaresuffered,evenintheirthirdyear,torunlooseaftertheirdams,andtogambolunrestrainedovertheplain.Itistotheirperfectfreedomwhilstyoung

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thatthehorsesoftheDesertowetheirspeedandthesupplenessoftheirlimbs.

ItmaynotbeoutofplacetoaddafewremarksonthesubjectofArabhorses.TheBedouins,asitiswellknown,dividetheirthorough-bredsintofiveraces,descended,assomedeclare,fromthefivefavouritemaresoftheProphet.Thenames,however,ofthesebreedsvaryamongstdifferenttribes.AccordingtoSuttum,whowasbetteracquaintedwiththehistoryandtraditionsoftheBedouinsthanalmostanyArabIevermet,theyareallderivedfromoneoriginalstock,theKoheyleh,which,incourseoftime,wasdivided,afterthenamesofcelebratedmares,intothefollowingfivebranches:--ObeyanSherakh,HedbaZayhi,ManekiaHedrehji,ShouaymahSablah,andMargoub.Theseformthe_Kamse_,orthefivebreeds,fromwhichaloneentirehorsesarechosentopropagatetherace.Fromthe _Kamse_havesprunganumberoffamiliesnolessnoble,perhaps,thantheoriginalfive;buttheShammarreceivetheirstallionswithsuspicion,orrejectthemaltogether.AmongthebestknownaretheWathnaKhersan,socalledfromthemaresbeingsaidtobeworththeirweightingold;(noblehorsesofthisbreedarefoundamongsttheArabtribesinhabitingthedistrictstotheeastoftheEuphrates,theBeniLam,AlKamees,andAlKithere;)Khalawi,thusnamedfromawonderfulfeatofspeedperformedbyacelebratedmareinSouthernMesopotamia;Jaiaythani,andJulfa.TheonlyesteemedraceintheDesertwhich,accordingtoSuttum,cannotbetracedtothe_Kamse_,istheSaklawi,althoughconsideredbytheShammarandby

theBedouinsoftheGebelShammar,asoneofthenoblest,ifnotthenoblest,ofall.Itisdividedintothreebranches,themostvaluedbeingtheSaklawiJedran,whichissaidtobenowalmostextinct.

Tounderstandhowaman,whohasperhapsnotevenbreadtofeedhimselfandhischildren,canwithstandthetemptationofsuchlargesums,itmustberememberedthat,besidestheaffectionproverbiallyfeltbytheBedouinforhismare,whichmight,perhaps,notbeproofagainstsuchatest,heisentirelydependentuponherforhishappiness,hisglory,and,indeed,hisveryexistence.AnArabpossessingahorseunrivalledinspeedandendurance,anditwouldonlybeforsuchthatenormouspriceswouldbeoffered,isentirelyhisownmaster,andcandefytheworld.Onceonitsback,noonecancatchhim.Hemayrob,plunder,fight,andgotoandfro

ashelists.Nomanhasakeenersenseofthejoysofliberty,andaheartierhatredofrestraint,thanthetrueBedouin.GivehimtheDesert,hismare,andhisspear,andhewillnotenvythewealthandpowerofthegreatestoftheearth.Heplundersandrobsforthemerepleasureandexcitementwhichdangerandgloryafford.

Amareisgenerallythepropertyoftwoormorepersons,whohaveashareinherprogeny,regulatedbycustom,anddifferingaccordingtothetribe.

Thelargestnumberofhorses,aswellasthoseofthemostesteemedbreeds,arestilltobefound,asinthetimeofBurckhardt,amongstthetribeswhoinhabitMesopotamiaandthegreatplainswateredbytheEuphratesandTigris.Theserichpastures,nourishedbytherainsof

winterandspring,theclimate,and--accordingtotheArabs--thebrackishwaterofthespringsrisinginthegypsum,seemespeciallyfavorabletotherearingofhorses.ThebestprobablybelongtotheShammarandAneyzatribes.

ThepresentSheikhoftheGebelShammar,IbnReshid,has,Iaminformed,averychoicestudofmaresofthefinestbreeds,andtheirreputationhasspreadfarandwideovertheDesert.TheNawabofOude,theEkbal-ed-Doulah,agoodjudgeofhorses,whohadvisitedmanyofthetribes,andhadmadethepilgrimagetotheholycitiesbythelittle

7/31/2019 Ninevah


frequentedroutethroughtheinteriorofNedjd,assuredmethatthefinesthorseshehadeverseenwereinthepossessionoftheShereefofMecca.

TheArabhorseismoreremarkableforitsexquisitesymmetryandbeautifulproportions,unitedwithwonderfulpowersofendurance,thanforextraordinaryspeed.IdoubtwhetheranyArabofthebestbloodhaseverbeenbroughttoEngland.Thedifficultyofobtainingthemissogreat,thattheyarescarcelyeverseenbeyondthelimitsoftheDesert.

Theircolorisgenerallywhite,lightordarkgrey,lightchestnut,andbay,withwhiteorblackfeet.Blackisexceedinglyrare,andIneverremembertohaveseendun,sorrel,ordapple.Irefer,ofcourse,tothetrue-bredArab,andnottotheTurcomanortoKurdishandTurkishraces,whichareacrossbetweentheArabandPersian.

Theiraverageheightisfrom14handsto14-3/4,rarelyreaching15;Ihaveonlyseenonemarethatexceededit.Notwithstandingthesmallnessoftheirstaturetheyoftenpossessgreatstrengthandcourage.Buttheirmostremarkableandvaluablequalityisthepowerofperforminglongandarduousmarchesuponthesmallestpossibleallowanceoffoodandwater.ItisonlythemareofthewealthyBedouinthatgetsevenaregularfeedofabouttwelvehandfulsofbarley,orofriceinthehusk,onceintwenty-fourhours.Duringthespringalone,whenthepasturesaregreen,thehorsesoftheArabsaresleekandbeautifulinappearance.Atother

timestheyeatnothingbutthewitheredherbsandscantyhaygatheredfromtheparchedsoil,andareleanandunsightly.TheyareneverplacedundercoverduringtheintenseheatofanArabiansummer,norprotectedfromthebitingcoldoftheDesertwindsduringthewinter.Thesaddleisrarelytakenfromtheirbacks,noraretheyevercleanedorgroomed.Thusapparentlyneglected,theyarebutskinandbone,andthetownsmanmarvelsatseeingananimal,whichhewouldscarcelytakethetroubletoridehome,valuedalmostbeyondprice.

TheShammarBedouinsgivetheirhorses,particularlywhenyoung,largequantitiesofcamels'milk.Ihaveheardofmareseatingrawflesh,anddatesarefrequentlymixedwiththeirfoodbythetribeslivingnearthemouthoftheEuphrates.TheShammarandAneyzashoetheirhorsesif

possible,andwanderingfarriersregularlyvisittheirtents.TheArabhorsehasbuttwoordinarypaces,aquickandeasywalk,sometimesaveragingbetweenfourandfivemilesanhour,andahalfrunningcanter.TheBedouinrarelyputshismaretofullspeedunlesspursuedorpursuing.

Intheevening,asIwasseatedbeforemytent,Iobservedalargepartyofhorsemenandridersondeloulsapproachingourencampment.Theystoppedattheentranceofthelargepavilionreservedforguests,andpicketingtheirmares,andturningloosetheirdromedariesadornedwithgaytrappings,seatedthemselvesonthecarpets.Thechiefswereouroldfriends,MohammedEminandFerhan,thegreatShammarSheikh.WecordiallyembracedaftertheBedouinfashion.IhadnotseenFerhansincethetreacherousmurderofhisfatherbyNejibPashaofBaghdad[136],towhich

healludedwithtouchingexpressionsofgrief,bewailinghisownincompetencytofillSofuk'splace,andtogovernthedividedtribe.HewasnowonhiswaywiththeJebourSheikhtorecover,ifpossible,thegovernmenttreasure,plunderedbytheHamoud,forwhich,asheadoftheShammar,hewasheldresponsiblebythePorte.

Aftertheyhadeatenofthefeastwewereabletoprepareforthem,theydepartedaboutsunsetforthetentsoftheJebours.IembracedMohammedEminforthelasttime,andsawhimnomoreduringmyresidenceinAssyria.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Onthe4thofMaywemadeashortday'sjourneyoffivehourstoabeautifulstreamissuingfromtheSinjarhill,beneaththevillageofKhersaorChersa.ABedouinoftheBoraijtribeaccompaniedusridingonaswiftwhitedromedaryofatrueNedjidbreed.ThisanimalwasscarcelytallerthanalargeEnglishhorse.

Leavingtheplain,whichwasspeckledasfarastheeyecouldreachwiththeflocksandtentsoftheBedouins,weskirtedtheveryfootoftheSinjar.Khersahadbeendesertedbyitsinhabitants,whohadrebuilttheirvillagehigheruponthesideofthehill.

SincethelossofHattab,Suttumhadneverceasedpiningforafalconworthytotakehisplace.HehadbeencountingthehoursofhisvisittothispartoftheSinjar,knownonlytoyieldtothebordersofthePersianGulfinproducingthefinestandbravesthawksforthechase.Hewasnotsuccessful,however,inpleasinghimselfwiththosewhichwereofferedtohim.

Nextdaywemadebutlittleprogress,encampingnearaspringunderthevillageofAldina,whosechief,Murad,hadnowreturnedfromhiscaptivity.Gratefulformyintercessioninhisbehalf,hebroughtussheepandotherprovisions,andmetuswithhispeopleasweenteredthevalley.Athisurgentrequest,Iaidedmateriallyininducingthepeopletopay

theduesofthetax-gathererwhowasatthattimeinthevillage.Duringthenegociations,Suttum,surroundedbyclamorousYezidis,wassittingintheshade,examiningunfledgedhawks.Atlengththreeweredeemedworthyofhisnotice:onebeingprettywelladvancedindayswassenttohistentforeducation,underthechargeoftherideroftheNedjddeloul.Theothers,beingyetinaweakstate,wererestoredtothenest,tobeclaimedonhisreturnfromMosul.Thelargestbird,beingaverypromisingspecimen,costfivegazeesor1_l._;theothers,threegazeesandahalf,asthetimeswerehard,andthetax-gatherersurgentforreadymoney.

Werodeonthefollowingdayforaboutanhouralongthefootofthe

Sinjarhill,whichsuddenlysubsidesintoalowundulatingcountry.Thenarrowvalleysandravineswereblood-redwithgiganticpoppies.TheBedouinsadornedthecamelsandhorseswiththescarletflowers,andtwistedthemintotheirownhead-dressesandlonggarments.EventheTiyaridressedthemselvesupinthegaudytrappingsofnature,andaswejourneyedchantinganArabwar-song,weresembledthereturnofafestiveprocessionfromsomesacrificeofold.Duringourwearymarchesunderaburningsun,itrequiredsomesuchepisodestokeepupthedroopingspiritsofthemen,whotoiledonfootbyoursides.PoetryandflowersarethewineandspiritsoftheArab;acoupletisequaltoabottle,andarosetoadram,withouttheevileffectsofeither.Wouldthatinmorecivilisedclimesthesourcesofexcitementwereequallyharmless!

IntheeveningSuttuminveighedbitterlyagainstahabitofsometravellersofcontinuallytakingnotesbeforestrangers.Iendeavouredtoexplaintheobjectandtoremovehisfears."Itisallverywell,"saidtheSheikh,"andIcanunderstand,andamwillingtobelieve,allyoutellme.ButsupposingtheTurks,oranybodyelse,shouldhereaftercomeagainstus,therearemanyfoolishandsuspiciousmeninthetribe,andIhaveenemies,whowouldsaythatIhadbroughtthem,forIhaveshownyoueverything.Youknowwhatwouldbetheconsequencestomeofsuchareport.Asforyou,youareinthisplaceto-day,and100days'journeyoffto-morrow,butIamalwayshere.Thereisnotaplotofgrassora

7/31/2019 Ninevah


springthatthatman(alludingtooneofourparty)doesnotwritedown."Suttum'scomplaintswerenotunreasonable,andtravellerscannotbetoocautiousinthisrespect,whenamongstindependenttribes,foreveniftheydonotbringdifficultiesuponthemselves,theymaydosouponothers.

Wehadasevenhours'rideonthedelouls,leavingthecaravantofollow,tothelargeruinofAbouMaria,[137]passingthroughTelAfer.TheJeheshwereencampedabouttwomilesfromtheplace.Myworkmenhadexcavatedforsometimeintheseremarkablemounds,andhaddiscoveredchambersandseveralenormousslabsofMosulmarble,butnoremainswhateverofsculpture.

AshortrideofthreehoursbroughtustoEski(old)Mosul,onthebanksoftheTigris.Accordingtotraditionthisistheoriginalsiteofthecity.Therearemounds,andtheremainsofwalls,whichareprobablyAssyrian.Mosulwasstillninecaravanhoursdistant,andweencampedthenextnightatHamaydat,wheremanyofourfriendscameouttomeetus.Onthe10thofMaywewereagainwithinthewallsofthetown,ourdeserttriphavingbeenaccomplishedwithoutanymishaporaccidentwhatever.

Suttumleftustwodaysafterforhistents,fearinglestheshouldbetoolatetojointhewarriorsoftheKhorusseh,whohadplannedagrand _ghazou_intoNedjd.Heurgedmetoaccompanythem;butIhadlong

renouncedsuchevilhabits,andotheroccupationskeptmeinMosul.FindingthatIwasnottobepersuaded,andthatthetimewasatlengthcomeforustopart,heembracedme,crammedthepresentswehadmadetohimselfandhiswivesintohissaddle-bags,and,mountinghisdeloul,rodeoffwithMijwelltowardstheDesert.

CHAPTERXVI.

DISCOVERIESATKOUYUNJIK.--PROCESSIONOFFIGURESBEARINGFRUITANDGAME.--LOCUSTS.--LEDHORSES.--ANASSYRIANCAMPAIGN.--DAGON,ORTHE

FISH-GOD.--THECHAMBERSOFRECORDS.--INSCRIBEDCLAYTABLETS.--RETURNTONIMROUD.--EFFECTSOFTHEFLOOD.--DISCOVERIES.--SMALLTEMPLEUNDERHIGHMOUND.--THEEVILSPIRIT.--FISH-GOD.--FINEBAS-RELIEFOFTHEKING.--EXTRACTSFROMTHEINSCRIPTION.--GREATINSCRIBEDMONOLITH.--EXTRACTSFROMTHEINSCRIPTION.--CEDARBEAMS.--SMALLOBJECTS.--SECONDTEMPLE.--MARBLEFIGUREANDOTHEROBJECTS.

DuringmyabsenceintheDesert,theexcavationsatKouyunjikhadbeenactivelycarriedonunderthesuperintendenceofTomaShishman.Onmyarrivalhedescribedmanyinterestingdiscoveries,andIhastenedtotheruins,crossinginarudeferry-boattheriver,nowswollen,bythespringrains,tomorethandoubleitsusualsize.[138]

Theearthhadbeencompletelyremovedfromthesidesofthelonggallery,onthewallsofwhichhadbeenportrayedthetransportofthelargestoneandofthewingedbulls.Anoutletwasdiscoverednearitswesternend,openingintoanarrowdescendingpassage;anentrance,itwouldappear,intothepalacefromtheriverside.Itslengthwasninety-sixfeet,itsbreadthnotmorethanthirteen.Thewallswerepanelledwithsculpturedslabsaboutsixfeethigh.Thosetotheright,indescending,representedaprocessionofservantscarryingfruit,flowers,game,andsuppliesforabanquet,precededbymace-bearers.Thefirstservantfollowingtheguard

7/31/2019 Ninevah


boreanobjectwhichIshouldnothesitatetoidentifywiththepineapple,unlesstherewereeveryreasontobelievethattheAssyrianswereunacquaintedwiththatfruit.Theleavessproutingfromthetopprovedthatitwasnottheconeofapinetreeorfir.Afterall,thesacredsymbolheldbythewingedfiguresintheAssyriansculptures,maybethesamefruit,andnot,asIhaveconjectured,thatofaconiferoustree.

Theattendantswhofollowedcarriedclustersofripedatesandflatbasketsofosier-work,filledwithpomegranates,apples,andbunchesofgrapes.Theyraisedinonehandsmallgreenboughstodriveawaytheflies.Thencamemenbearinghares,partridges,anddriedlocustsfastenedonrods.ThelocusthaseverbeenanarticleoffoodintheEast,andisstillsoldinthemarketsofmanytownsinArabia.[139]Beingintroducedinthisbas-reliefamongstthechoicedelicaciesofabanquet,itwasprobablyhighlyprizedbytheAssyrians.

Thelocust-bearerswerefollowedbyamanwithstringsofpomegranates;thencame,twobytwo,attendantscarryingontheirshoulderslowtables,suchasarestillusedintheEastatfeasts,loadedwithbasketsofcakesandfruitsofvariouskinds.Theprocessionwasfinishedbyalonglineofservantsbearingvasesofflowers.

Thesefiguresweredressedinashorttunic,confinedatthewaistbyashawlorgirdle.Theyworenoheadgear,theirhairfallingincurlson

theirshoulders.Ontheoppositewallsofthepassagewerefourteenhorseswithouttrappings,eachhorsehavingasimplehaltertwistedrounditslowerjaw,bywhichitwasledbyagroom.Theanimalsandmenweredesignedwithconsiderabletruthandspirit.

Itisprobablethatthesculpturesformingtheupperendofthepassage,butnowentirelydestroyed,representedthekingreceivingthisdoubleprocession.Thepassagemayhaveledtothebanqueting-hall,ortoachamber,whereroyalfeastsweresometimesheld,andwasthereforeadornedwithappropriatesubjects.Atitswesternendthegalleryturnedabruptlytothenorth,itswallsbeingtherebuiltofsolidstone-masonry.Ilost

allfurthertracesofit,astheworkmenwereunable,atthattime,tocarryonthetunnelbeneathanaccumulatedmassofearthandrubbishaboutfortyfeetthick.

Astheworkmencouldnolonger,withoutsomedanger,excavateinthispartoftheruins,theyhadreturnedtothechamberalreadydescribedascontainingaseriesofbas-reliefsrepresentingthecaptureandsackofalargecityinthemountains,andasopeningintothebroadgalleryonwhosewallsweredepicturedthevariousprocessesemployedbytheAssyriansinmovingtheircolossalfigures.Fromthischamberbranchedtothesouthanarrowpassage,whosesculpturedpanelshadbeenpurposelydestroyed.Itledintoagreathall,whichtheworkmendidnotthenexplore.Theycontinuedforafewfeetalongitswesternside,andthen

turningthroughadoorway,discoveredachamber,fromwhichagain,alwaysfollowingthelineofwall,theyenteredaspaciousapartment,completelysurroundedwithbas-reliefs,representingonecontinuoussubject.TheAssyrianarmywasseenfordingabroadriveramidstwoodedmountains.Thekinginhischariotwasfollowedbyalongretinueofwarriorsonfootandonhorsesrichlycaparisoned,byledhorseswithevengayertrappings,andbymenbearingontheirshouldershissecondchariot,whichhadayokeornamentedwithbossesandcarvings.Aftercrossingtherivertheyattackedtheenemy'sstrongholds,whichtheycapturedonebyone,puttingtodeathorcarryingintocaptivitytheirinhabitants.Thecaptivesworea

7/31/2019 Ninevah


kindofturbanwrappedinseveralfoldsroundthehead,andashorttunicconfinedatthewaistbyabroadbelt.FromthenatureofthecountryitmaybeconjecturedthatthesculpturesrepresentedacampaigninsomepartofArmenia,andIaminclinedtoidentifytheriverwiththeEuphrates,nearwhosehead-waters,aswelearnfromthebullinscriptions,Sennacheribwagedoneofhismostimportantwars.

Theslabsatthewesternendofthischamberwereactually_curvedbackwards_,showingtheenormouspressurethatmusthavetakenplacefromthefallinginoftheupperpartofthebuilding,bywhichnotonlythealabasterwasbent,butdrivenintothewallofsundriedbricks.

Onthenorthsideofthechamberweretwodoorwaysleadingintoseparateapartments.Eachentrancewasformedbytwocolossalbas-reliefsofDagon,orthefish-god.Unfortunatelytheupperpartofallthesefigureshadbeendestroyed,butasthelowerremainedfromabovethewaistwecanhavenodifficultyinrestoringthewhole,especiallyasthesameimageisseenentireonafineAssyriancylinderofagateinmypossession.Itcombinedthehumanshapewiththatofthefish.Theheadofthefishformedamitreabovethatoftheman,whilstitsscalybackandfanliketailfellasacloakbehind,leavingthehumanlimbsandfeetexposed.Thefigureworeafringedtunic,andborethetwosacredemblems,thebasketandthecone.

WecanscarcelyhesitatetoidentifythismythicformwiththeOannes,orsacredman-fish,who,accordingtothetraditionspreservedbyBerossus,issuedfromtheErythræanSea,instructedtheChaldæans,inallwisdom,inthesciences,andinthefinearts,andwasafterwardsworshippedasagodinthetemplesofBabylonia.Itsbody,saysthehistorian,wasthatofafish,_butundertheheadofafishwasthatofaman_,andtoitstailwerejoinedwomen'sfeet.FivesuchmonstersrosefromthePersianGulfatfabulousintervalsoftime.[140]

TheDagonofthePhilistinesandoftheinhabitantsofthePhoeniciancoastwasworshipped,accordingtotheunitedopinionoftheHebrewcommentatorsontheBible,underthesameform.[141]WhenthearkoftheLordwasbroughtintothegreattempleoftheidolatAshdod,andthe

statuefellasecondtime,"theheadofDagonandboththepalmsofhishandswerecutoffuponthethreshold;onlythe_fishypart_ofDagonwaslefttohim."[142]HisworshipappearstohaveextendedoverSyria,aswellasMesopotamiaandChaldæa.Hehadmanytemples,aswelearnfromtheBible,inthecountryofthePhilistines,anditwasprobablyundertheruinsofoneofthemthatSamsonburiedthepeopleofGazawhohad"gatheredthemtogetherfortoofferagreatsacrificeuntoDagontheirgod,andtorejoice."[143]WealsofindaBeth-Dagon,orthehouseofDagon,amongsttheuttermostcitiesofthechildrenofJudah[144],andanothercityofthesamenameintheinheritanceofthechildrenofAsher.[145]

Thefirstdoorway,guardedbythefish-gods,ledintotwosmallchambers

openingintoeachother,andoncepanelledwithbas-reliefs,thegreaterpartofwhichhadbeendestroyed.Ishallcallthesechambers"thechambersofrecords,"for,like"thehouseoftherolls,"orrecords,whichDariusorderedtobesearchedforthedecreeofCyrus,concerningthebuildingofthetempleofJerusalem[146],theyappeartohavecontainedthedecreesoftheAssyriankings,aswellasthearchivesoftheempire.

Ihavementionedelsewhere[147]thatthehistoricalrecordsandpublicdocumentsoftheAssyrianswerekeptontabletsandcylindersofbaked

7/31/2019 Ninevah


clay.Manyspecimenshavebeenbroughttothiscountry.Theimportanceofsuchrelicswillbereadilyunderstood.Theypresent,inasmallcompass,anabridgment,orrecapitulation,oftheinscriptionsonthegreatmonumentsandpalacewalls,givinginachronologicalseriestheeventsofeachmonarch'sreign.Thewritingissominute,andthelettersaresocloseonetoanother,thatitrequiresconsiderableexperiencetoseparateandtranscribethem.

ThechambersIamdescribingappeartohavebeenadepositoryinthepalaceofNinevehforsuchdocuments.Totheheightofafootormorefromthefloortheywereentirelyfilledwiththem;someentire,butthegreaterpartbrokenintomanyfragments,probablybythefallinginoftheupperpartofthebuilding.Theywereofdifferentsizes;thelargesttabletswereflat,andmeasuredabout9inchesby6-1/2inches;thesmallerwereslightlyconvex,andsomewerenotmorethananinchlong,withbutoneortwolinesofwriting.Thecuneiformcharactersonmostofthemweresingularlysharpandwelldefined,butsominuteinsomeinstancesastobealmostillegiblewithoutamagnifyingglass.Thesedocumentsappeartobeofvariouskinds.Manyarehistoricalrecordsofwars,anddistantexpeditionsundertakenbytheAssyrians;someseemtoberoyaldecrees,andarestampedwiththenameofaking,thesonofEssarhaddon;othersagain,dividedintoparallelcolumnsbyhorizontallines,containlistsofthegods,andprobablyaregisterofofferingsmadeintheirtemples.OnoneDr.Hinckshasdetectedatableofthevalue

ofcertaincuneiformletters,expressedbydifferentalphabeticalsigns,accordingtovariousmodesofusingthem;amostimportantdiscovery:onanother,apparentlyalistofthesacreddaysineachmonth;andonathird,whatseemstobeacalendar.AswefindfromtheBavianinscriptions,thattheAssyrianskeptaveryaccuratecomputationoftime,wemayreasonablyexpecttoobtainvaluablechronologicaltablesandsomeinformationastotheirmethodsofdividingtheyear,andeventheday.Manyaresealedwithseals,andmayprovetobelegalcontractsorconveyancesofland.OthersbearrolledimpressionsofthoseengravedcylinderssofrequentlyfoundinBabyloniaandAssyria,bysomebelievedtobeamulets.Thecharactersappeartohavebeenformedbyaverydelicateinstrumentbeforetheclaywashardenedbyfire,andtheprocessofaccuratelymakingletterssominuteandcomplicatedmusthaverequired

considerableingenuityandexperience.OnsometabletsarefoundPhoenician,orcursiveAssyriancharactersandothersigns.

Theadjoiningchamberscontainedsimilarrelics,butinfarsmallernumbers.ManycaseswerefilledwiththesetabletsbeforeIleftAssyria,andavastnumberofthemhavebeenfound,Iunderstand,sincemydeparture.AlargecollectionofthemisalreadydepositedintheBritishMuseum.Wecannotoverratetheirvalue.Theyfurnishuswiththematerialsforthecompletedeciphermentofthecuneiformcharacter,forrestoringthelanguageandhistoryofAssyria,andforinquiringintothecustoms,sciences,and,wemayperhapsevenadd,literature,ofitspeople.ThedocumentsthathavethusbeendiscoveredatNinevehprobablyexceedallthathaveyetbeenaffordedbythemonumentsofEgypt.Butyearsmust

elapsebeforetheinnumerablefragmentscanbeputtogether,andtheinscriptionstranscribedfortheuseofthosewhoinEnglandandelsewheremayengageinthestudyofthecuneiformcharacter.ItistobehopedthattheTrusteesoftheBritishMuseumwillundertakethepublicationofdocumentsofsuchimportancetothehistoryoftheancientworld.

Thesecondentranceformedbythefish-godsopenedintoasmallchamber,whosesideshadbeenlinedwithbas-reliefs;buttherewerenoremainsofinscriptions.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


AfewdaysafterourreturntoMosul,IfloateddowntheriveronarafttoNimroud.ThefloodwhichhadspreadovertheplainduringmyabsenceintheDesert,haddestroyedapartofthevillage.ThecentreoftheplainofNimroudwasnowalargelake,andthecultivatedfieldswereoverspreadwithslime.TheShemuttigatheredroundmeasIarrived,andtoldmeofcropsdestroyed,andofhousessweptaway.

Theworkmenhadnotbeenidleduringmyabsence,anddiscoveriesofconsiderableinterestandimportancehadbeenmadeinthehighmoundontheleveloftheartificialplatform.Thefirsttrencheshadbeenopenedinthesideoftheravinebetweentheruinsofthetowerandthoseofthenorth-westpalace.Apavementoflargesquarebricks,bearingtheusualsuperscriptionoftheearlyNimroudking,wassoonuncovered.Itledtoawallofsundriedbricks,coatedwithplaster,whichprovedtobepartofasmalltemple.

Ihavealreadymentioned[148]thatasuperstructureofbricksresteduponthestonebasement-wallofthetower,atthenorth-westcornerofthemound.Itwasagainsttheeasternandsouthernfacesofthisupperbuildingthatthenewlydiscoveredtempleabutted.Fourofitschamberswereexplored,chieflybymeansoftunnelscarriedthroughtheenormousmassofearthandrubbishinwhichtheruinswereburied.Thegreatentrancesweretotheeast.Theprincipalportalwasformedbytwocolossalhuman-headedlions,sixteenfeetandahalfhighandfifteenfeet

long.Theywereflankedbythreesmallwingedfigures,oneabovetheother,anddividedbyanornamentalcornice,andbetweenthemwasaninscribedpavementslabofalabaster.Infrontofeachwasasquarestone,apparentlythepedestalofanaltar,andthewallsonbothsideswereadornedwithenamelledbricks.

[Illustration:ENTRANCETOASMALLTEMPLE,(NIMROUD.)]

Aboutthirtyfeettotheright,ornorth,oftheliongatewaywasasecondentrance,ateachsideofwhichweretwosingularfigures.Onewasthatofamonster,whosehead,offancifulandhideousform,hadlongpointedearsandextendedjaws,armedwithhugeteeth.Itsbodywascoveredwithfeathers,itsfore-feetwerethoseofalion,itshindlegs

endedinthetalonsofaneagle,andithadspreadingwingsandthetailofabird.Behindthisstrangeimagewasawingedman,whosedressconsistedofanuppergarmentwithaskirtofskinorfur,anunderrobefringedwithtassels,andthesacredhornedhat.Alongswordwassuspendedfromhisshouldersbyanembossedbelt;sandals,armlets,andbracelets,completedhisattire.Hegraspedineachhandanobjectintheformofadoubletrident,resemblingthethunderboltoftheGreekJove,whichhewasintheattitudeofhurlingagainstthemonster,whoturnedfuriouslytowardshim.

[Illustration:Fish-God,atEntrancetosmallTemple(Nimroud.)]

Thisgroupappearstorepresentthebadspiritdrivenoutbyagooddeity;

afitsubjectfortheentrancetoatemple,dedicatedtothegodofwar.ThesingularcombinationofformsbywhichtheAssyriansculptorportrayedtheevilprinciple,soprominentanelementintheChaldæan,andafterwardsintheMagian,religionssystem,cannotfailtostrikethereader.

Ontheslabsatrightanglestothesesculptures,formingtheouterpartoftheentrance,weretwocolossalhumanfigures,withoutwings,wearinggarlandsontheirheads,andbearingbranchesendinginthreeflowers.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Withinthetemple,atrightanglestotheentrance,weresculpturedfish-gods,somewhatdifferentinformfromthoseinthepalaceofKouyunjik.Thefish'sheadformedpartofthethree-hornedcapusuallywornbythewingedfigures.Thetailonlyreachedtothewaistoftheman,whowasdressedinthetunicandlongfurredrobe,commonlyseeninthebas-reliefsofNimroud.

Totherightofthisentrance,andapparentlyoutsidethewallsofthetemple,wasdiscoveredoneofthefinestspecimensofAssyriansculpturebroughttothiscountry.ItrepresentstheearlyNimroudkinginhighrelief,carvedonasolidblockoflimestone,cutintotheshapeofanarchedframe,intheformoftherocktabletsofBavianandtheNahr-el-Kelb.Themonarchwearshissacrificialrobes,andcarriesthesacredmaceinhislefthand.Roundhisneckarehungthefoursacredsigns,thecrescent,thestarorsun,thetrident,andthecross.Hiswaistisencircledbytheknottedcord,andinhisgirdlearethreedaggers.AbovehisheadarethemythicsymbolsofAssyrianworship,thewingedglobe,thecrescent,thestar,thebident,andthehornedcap.Theentireslab,8ft.8in.high,by4ft.6in.broad,and1ft.3in.thick,iscovered,behindandbefore,exceptwherethesculptureintervenes,withaninscription,insmallandadmirablyformedarrow-headedcharacters.

Unfortunately,theheatofthefirewhichhadconsumedthebuilding,had

alsobrokenthismonumentintotwopieces.FromthecarelessnessshowninitstransporttoEngland,thisfinespecimenofAssyriansculpturesustainedstillfurtherinjury,andthelowerpartisnowalmostdestroyed.

Theinscriptionmusthavecontainedwhenentireseveralhundredlines,andisdividedonthebackoftheslabsintotwocolumns.ItcommenceswithaninvocationtothegodAshur,thesupremelord,thekingofthecircleofthetwelvegreatgods.Thenfollowthenamesofthesedeities.Thefirst-namedis_Anu_(?),thelastIshtar,probablyAstarte,orthemoon,andnotVenus,assomehavebelieved.[149]

Afterthisinvocationoccursthenameofthefounderofthenorth-west

palace,readbyDr.Hincks,Assaracbal,andbyColonelRawlinson,Sardanapalus,withalongexordium,apparentlyofareligiousnature,whichhasnotyetbeensatisfactorilydeciphered.Thenfollowsafullaccountofhisvariouscampaignsandwars.

Thelionentranceledintoachamber46ft.by19ft.Nearlyoppositetotheentrancewasadoorwaypanelledwithslabssculpturedwithwingedfigurescarryingmaces.Theinnerdoorledintoachamber47ft.by31ft.,endinginarecesspavedwithoneenormousalabasterslab,nolessthan21ft.by16ft.7in.,and1ft.1in.thick.Thismonolithhadbeenbrokenintoseveralpiecesprobablybythefallinginoftheroofofthebuilding,andhadinseveralplacesbeenreducedtolimebytheburningbeamsoftheceiling.Thewholeofitssurface,aswellasthesidefacing

thechamber,wasoccupiedbyoneinscription,325linesinlength,dividedintotwoparallelhorizontalcolumns,andcarvedwiththegreatestsharpnessandcare.Onsubsequentlyraisingthedetachedpieces,Ifoundthatthebackoftheslab,restingonasolidmassofsun-driedbricks,wasalsocoveredwithcuneiformwriting,occupyingthreecolumns.Itisdifficulttounderstandwhysomuchlaborshouldhavebeenapparentlythrownawayuponaninscriptionwhichwouldremainunseenuntiltheedificeitselfwasutterlydestroyed.Stillmorecuriousisthefact,thatwhilstthisinscriptioncontainsallthehistoricaldetailsofthatontheoppositeside,therecordsoftwoorthreemoreyearsareadded,andthat

7/31/2019 Ninevah


theupperinscriptionstopsabruptlyinthemiddleofasentence.Itispossiblethatthebuildersofthetemple,foreseeingitsruin,haddeterminedthatiftheirenemiesshouldthroughmalicedefacetheirannals,thereshouldyetremainanotherrecord,inaccessibleandunknown,whichwouldpreservethehistoryoftheirgreatnessandgloryuntoalltime.

Theinscriptiononthisgreatmonolithappearstohavebeensimilarinitshistoricaldetailstothatonthekingintheframe.Ishallquotesomespecimens,translatedbyDr.Hincks,toshowtheminutenesswithwhichtheAssyriankingschronicledeveryeventoftheirreign,andtheconsequentvalueoftheirhistoricalrecords.Itistoberemarkedthat,althoughtheseinscriptionsareintheformofannals,theyearsarenotmentioned.Thekinggenerallysetsoutonhiscampaignsinoneparticularmonth,thenameofwhichisgiven;probablyintheautumn,whentheheatsofsummerwereover.Inthebeginningofhisreignhecollectedhisarmy,andmadehisfirstexpeditionintothecountryofNummi,orNûmi,probablyElamorSusiana,subsequently,asweshallfind,calledNumakiorNuvaki.Hetookmanycities,towns,anddistrictswhosenameshavenotbeenidentified.Heslewtheirwomen,theirslaves,andtheirchildren,andcarriedawaytheircattleandflocks._Theirfightingmenescapedtoahillfort_(?)."Theirhousesheburnedlike_stubble_"(?).Manyothercountriestothesouthandsouth-eastofAssyria,someofwhicharementionedontheobelisk,wereconqueredduringthiscampaign.Thecityof_Nishtun_(?)is

particularlydescribedasoneofconsiderableimportance.Heseizeditskingorgovernor,whosenamereadsBabou,thesonofBaboua,andimprisonedhiminBabylon."AtthattimethecitiesofNerib(theirpositionisdoubtful),theirprincipalcities,hedestroyed.FromNeribhedepartedtothecityofTushka....Apalaceforhisdwellinghemadethere,andplaced_pillars_(?)atthegates,andputastatueof...(probablysomekindofstone)...andsetuptablets,andmadeaplacefortheminthecitadel."

Anaccountfollowsofthebuildingofthenorth-westpalaceofNimroud,which,whendeciphered,willbeofconsiderableinterest,andmayenableustorestorethatedifice.HealsobuilttwocitiesontheEuphrates, _oneoneachbank_(?),callingoneafterhisownname,andtheother

afterthenameofthegreatgodAshur.

Numerousexpeditionstocountriestothenorth,west,andsouthofAssyriaarethenrelatedindetail.AmongstthemonetoCarchemish,wherehereceivedthetributeofSangara,kingoftheKhatti(theHittitesorpeopleofSyria),includingagreatvarietyofgoldandsilverornaments,someapparentlytoberecognisedbytheirpureHebrewnames.Asfewofthecitiesandcountriesconqueredandvisitedbythiskinghaveyetbeenidentified,andamererepetitionofthesamedrydetailswouldscarcelyinterestthereader,Iwillmerelygiveliteralversions,asfarastheycanbegiven,ofthehistoryoftwoofthemostimportantcampaigns.Theywillshowthestyleoftheseremarkablechronicles,andtheminutenesswithwhicheventswererecorded.

ThefirstparagraphrelatestothecampaignofthekingonthebordersoftheEuphrates.

"Onthe22nddayofthemonth....IdepartedfromCalah(thequarterofNinevehnowcalledNimroud).IcrossedtheTigris.OnthebanksoftheTigrisIreceivedmuchtribute.InthecityofTabitIhalted.IoccupiedthebanksoftheriverKarma(?theHermus,oreasternconfluentoftheKhabour).InthecityofMegariceIhalted.FromthecityofMegariceIdeparted.IoccupiedthebanksoftheKabour(Chaboras).Ihaltedatthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


cityof_Sadikanni_(?orKar-dikanni).IreceivedthetributeofthecityofKedni.FromKedniIdepartedtothecityof...lemmi.Inthecityof...lemmiIhalted.Fromthecityof...lemmiIdeparted.InthecityofBeth-KhilapiIhalted.ThetributeofBeth-KhilapiIreceived,gold,silver,"andmanyotherarticles,amongstwhichareapparentlyobjectsofclothing,orembroideredstuffs.ThenfollowhismarchesdaybydaytothecitiesofSirki,Tzufri,Naqua-rabani,andKindani,fromeachofwhichhereceivedtributeingold,silver,severalobjectsnotidentified,cattle,andsheep.Theinscriptiongoeson--"ThecityofKindanistandsontherightbankoftheriverEuphrates.FromKindaniIdeparted:onthemountain,bythesideoftheEuphrates,Ihalted.FromthemountainIdeparted.InBeth-Shebaiya,overagainstKarid,Ihalted.ThecityofKaridstandsontherightbankoftheriverEuphrates.FromBath-ShebaiyaIdeparted:onthetopof(orabove)AnatIhalted.AnatstandsinthemiddleoftheEuphrates"(agreeingwiththepositionofthemoderntownofAna).Hethenattackedandtooktheprincipalcityof_Shadu_(?),ofthecountryofSuka,andthecityof_Tzur_(?),thecapitalof_Shadu_(?),whoseinhabitantswereassistedbythesoldiersofBishi(anationalsoalludedtointhesecondyearoftheannalsofSennacherib).Nebo-Baladan,kingofKar-Duniyas,isthenmentioned,showingthatthecampaignwascarried_down_thebanksoftheEuphratesfartothesouthofBabylon.

ThesecondextractisfromtherecordsofacampaigninnorthernSyria.HavingfirstcrossedtheEuphrates:

"FromKunulua,thecapitalofLubarna,theSharutinian[150],Ideparted.TheArantu(Orontes)Icrossed.OnthebanksoftheArantuIencamped.FromthebanksoftheArantuIdeparted.Betweenthecountriesof _Saraban_and_Tapan_(?)Ioccupiedthecountry.BytheseashoreIencamped.Tothecityof_Ariboua_(?),aprincipalcityofLubarna,theSharutinian,Ireturned....(undecipheredpassage)._IcausedsomemenofAssyriatodwellinhispalace_(?).WhilstIwasinAribouathecitiesofLukutaItook.Islewmanyoftheirmen.Ioverthrewandburnedtheircities.Their_fightingmen_(or?thedesertersfrommyarmy)Ilaidholdof.OnstakesoveragainsttheircityIimpaledthem.[151]AtthattimethecountriesthatareuponLebanonItookpossessionof,tothegreatseaofthecountryofAkkari(theMediterranean).Onthegreatsea_Iput_

myservants(?).SacrificestothegodsIoffered.Thetributeofthekingsofthepeoplewhodweltnearthesea,oftheTyrians,theSidonians,theKubalians,the_Mahalatai_(?),theMa...ai,theKha...,andtheAkkarians(allnationstothenorthofTyre),andofthecityofArvad,whichisinthemiddleofthesea--silverandgoldpieces,rings(?)ofcopper,_ingots_(?)ofcopper,twokindsof_clothing_(?)(perhapsthedyedclothofTyre,orembroideriessuchasarefrequentlymentionedintheBible),great'_yagouti_'andsmall'_pagouti_'(meaningnotdetermined),somewoodenobjects,apparentlyofcedar,and_pearls_(?),fromtheriversatorbetweenthesea.[152]IwenttothemountainofKamana(theCamanus,inthenorthofSyria).Isacrificedtothegods.Imade_bridges_(orbeams),and_pillars_(?).FromKamanaIbroughtthemtoBithkara,formyownhouse,forthetempleofSan,forthetempleof

thesun.Iwenttotheforestsandcutthemdown,andmade_bridges_(?)(orroofsorbeams)ofthewood,forIshtar,mistressofthecityofNineveh,myprotectress."[153]

Thechiefeventsofthereignofthiskingarebrieflyalludedtointhestandardandotherinscriptionsdiscoveredinthenorth-westpalaceatNimroud;butintherecordsjustdescribedwehaveaminutenessofgeographicaldetail,whichenablesustotracethecourseofhisexpeditionswithgreatcertainty.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Standingonedayonadistantpartofthemound,Ismeltthesweetsmellofburningcedar.TheArabworkmen,excavatinginthesmalltemple,haddugoutabeam,and,theweatherbeingcold,hadatoncemadeafiretowarmthemselves.Thewoodwascedar;probablyoneoftheverybeamsmentionedintheinscriptionasbroughtfromtheforestsofLebanonbythekingwhobuilttheedifice.Afteralapseofnearlythreethousandyears,ithadretaineditsoriginalfragrance.Itislikelythatthewholesuperstructure,aswellastheroofandfloorofthebuilding,likethoseofthetempleandpalaceofSolomon,wereofthispreciousmaterial.

Intheseruinswasalsofoundamassofleadmeltedbythefire,forembeddedinitwastheironheadofahatchet.Amongstthevarioussmallobjectscollectedwerefiguresofwingeddeities,&c.,ofclay,coloredinthemasswithabluederivedfromcopper;eyes,beards,hair,andornamentsinenamel,probablybelongingtofiguresofwood,metal,orivory,resemblingthecryselaphantinestatuesoftheGreeks;eyesofblackmarbleinlaidwithivory,withtheeye-ballsofabrightblueenamel,belongingtosimilarstatues;andarms,legs,andotherpartsoffiguresincharredwood.

Fragmentsofporcelain(?),partsofacuporvase,withcarvingsinlowrelief,severalinscribedfragmentsofagate,lapis-lazuli,cornelian,andotherpreciousmaterials,beads,cylinders,andoneortwoclaytabletswithinscriptionsandimpressionsofseals,completethelistofsmall

objectsdiscoveredinthistemple.Aboutonehundredfeettotheeastofthebuildinglastdescribed,andontheveryedgeoftheartificialplatform,Idiscoveredasecondtemple.Itsprincipalentrancefacedthesouth,andwasonthesamelevelasthenorth-westpalace.Thisgatewaywasformedbytwocolossallionswithextendedjaws,gathereduplipsandnostrils,flowingmanes,andruffsofbristlyhair.Theheads,thoughtoacertainextentconventionalinform,weredesignedwiththatvigorsoremarkablydisplayedbytheAssyriansculptorinthedelineationofanimals.Thelimbsconveyedtheideaofstrengthandpower,theveinsandmuscleswereaccuratelyportrayed,andtheoutlineofthebodywasnotdeficientingraceandtruth.Butthefrontoftheanimal,whichwasinfull,wasnarrowandcramped,and

unequalindignitytotheside.Thesculptorhasgivenfivelegstotheanimalforthesamereasonthathegavethemtothesphinxes,thattheymightofferacompletefrontandsideview.

Thisgateway,abouteightfeetwide,waspavedwithoneinscribedslab.Theheightofthelionswasabouteightfeet,andtheirlengththirteen.Aninscriptionwascarvedacrossthem.Infrontofthem,inthecornersformedbywallsprojectingatrightangleswiththeentrance,weretwoaltars,hollowatthetop,andornamentedwithgradinesresemblingthebattlementsofacastle.Theexteriorwallsappearedtohavebeenadornedwithenamelledbricks,manyofwhichstillremained.

Unfortunately,oneoftheselionshadbeentoomuchinjuredbyfireto

bearremoval.Theother,althoughcrackedinseveralplaceswhendiscovered,andconsequentlymovedinpieces,hasbeenpreserved,andisnowintheBritishMuseum.

TheLionportalledintoachamber57feetby25.Atoneendwasarecesssimilartothatintheoppositetemple,andalsopavedwithonegreatalabasterslab,inscribedonbothsides.Thismonolith,19-1/2ft.by12ft.,waslikewisebrokenintoseveralpieces,andhadbeeninjuredinpartsbyfire.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Theinscriptionontheupperside,dividedintotwocolumns,andcontaining230lines,wasnearlythesameasthatonthekingintheframeandonthemonolithintheothertemple.ItwasalsoarecordofthewarsandcampaignsoftheearlyNimroudking.

Theotherroomsinthesamebuildingcontainednoinscriptions,sculptures,orotherobjectsofinterest.

Intheearthabovethegreatinscribedslabwasfoundaninterestingfigure,3feet4incheshigh,andcutinahard,compactlimestone.Itappearedtorepresentthekinghimself,attiredashighpriestinhissacrificialrobes.Inhisrighthandheheldaninstrumentresemblingasickle,andinhisleftthesacredmace.Roundhiswaistwastheknottedgirdle;andhisleftarm,likethatofthekingintheoppositetemple,waspartlyconcealedbyanouterrobe.Hisgarmentsdescendedtohisfeet,thetoesaloneprojectingfromthem.Thebeardandhairwereelaboratelycurled,thefeaturesweremajestic,andthegeneralproportionsofthestatuenotaltogetherincorrect,withtheexceptionofawantofbreadthinthesideviewpeculiartoAssyrianworksofartofthisnature.Itwas,however,chieflyremarkableasbeingtheonlyentirestatue"intheround"ofthisperiod,hithertodiscoveredintheruinsofNineveh.

Onthebreastisaninscriptionnearlyinthesewords:--Afterthenameandtitlesoftheking,"TheconquerorfromtheupperpassageoftheTigristo

LebanonandtheGreatSea,whoallcountries,fromtherisingofthesuntothegoingdownthereof,hasreducedunderhisauthority."Thestatuewas,therefore,probablyraisedafterhisreturnfromthecampaigninSyriadescribed,aswehaveseen,onthemonoliths,andalludedtointhestandardinscription.

Thisstatueoriginallystoodonapedestalofreddishlimestone,which,withthefigureitself,wasfoundbrokenintoseveralpieces.Theyhavebeenrestored,andarenowintheBritishMuseum.

Thetwointerestingbuildingsjustdescribed,theonlyundoubtedremainsoftempleshithertofoundatNimroud,completethediscoveriesatthenorthernextremityofthemound.Theyenableus,aswillhereafterbe

seen,torestorepartofthegroupofedificesraisedonthegrandplatforminthisquarterofNineveh.

CHAPTERXVII.

THESUMMER.--ENCAMPMENTATKOUYUNJIK.--VISITORS.--MODEOFLIFE.--DEPARTUREFORTHEMOUNTAINS.--AKRA.--ROCK-TABLETSATGUNDUK.--DISTRICTOFZIBARI.--NAMETAGHA.--DISTRICTOFSHIRWAN--OFBARADOST--OFGHERDI--OFSHEMDINA.--MOUSABEY.--NESTORIANBISHOP.--CONTENTOFMARHANANISHO.--DIZZA.--ANALBANIAN

FRIEND.--BASH-KALAH.--IZZETPASHA.--AJEWISHENCAMPMENT.--HIGHMOUNTAINPASS.--MAHMOUDIYAH.--FIRSTVIEWOFWAN.

ThedifficultiesanddelayincrossingtheTigris,nowswollenbythemeltingofthemountainsnows,inducedmetopitchmytentsonthemoundofKouyunjik,andtoresidetherewithallmyparty,insteadofdailypassingtoandfrointherudeferry-boatstotheruins.ThesmallEuropeancommunityatMosulwasincreasedinJunebythearrivalofalargepartyoftravellers.TwoEnglishgentlemenandtheirwives,who

7/31/2019 Ninevah


passedthroughontheirwaytoBaghdad:theHon.Mr.Walpole,whohassincepublishedanaccountofhisadventuresintheEast;theRev.Mr.Malan,towhomIamindebtedformanybeautifulsketches;theRev.Mr.Bowen,anEnglishclergyman,onatourofinspectiontotheEasternchurches,withwhomIspentmanyagreeableandprofitablehoursamongsttheruinsofNinevehandBabylon,andhiscompanion,Mr.Sandresky,wereourvisitors,andweremostofthemmyguests.

OurtentswerepitchedatthenortherncornerofKouyunjik.Thespringwasnowfastpassingaway;theheatbecamedailygreater;thecornwascut,andtheplainsandhillsputontheirsummerclothingofdullparchedyellow."Thepastureiswithered,thetenderherbfaileth,thegreenherbisnomore."[154]Itwastheseason,too,ofthesherghis,orburningwindsfromthesouth,whichoccasionallysweepoverthefaceofthecountry,driving,intheirshort-livedfury,everythingbeforethem.Theircomingwasforetoldbyasuddenfallinthebarometer,whichroseagainassoonastheyhadpassed.

AtNimroudtheexcavationshadbeenalmoststopped:atKouyunjiktheywerestillcarriedonasactivelyasmymeanswouldpermit.Iwasnowoccupiedinmovingandpackingsculpturesfrombothruins.FromNimroudthebeautifulbas-reliefofthekinginthearchedframe,describedinthepreviouschapter,thegoodspiritdrivingouttheevilprinciple,thefish-god,thecolossallionfromthesmalltemple,andseveralother

interestingsculptures,weretakentotheriver-bank,andsentonraftstoBusrah.AtKouyunjiknoneoftheslabscouldberemovedentire.Icouldonlypackinfragmentsseveralofthebas-reliefs.ThecasesweredraggedincartstotheTigris,unloadedbelowthepiersoftheancientbridge,andthereplacedonraftspreparedtoreceivethem.

Duringtheday,whennototherwiseoccupied,Imadedrawingsofthebas-reliefsdiscoveredinthesubterraneanpassages.Myguests,choosingsomeconvenientplaceundergroundnearthepartieswhowereatwork,spreadtheircarpetsbeneaththecrumblingsculptures.Weallwentbelowsoonafterthesunhadrisen,andremainedthere,withoutagainseekingtheopenair,untilitwasfardowninthewesternhorizon.Thetemperatureinthedarktunnelswascoolandagreeable,nearlytwenty

degreesofFahrenheitlowerthanthatintheshadeabovebutIfounditunwholesome,thesuddenchangeingoinginandoutcausingintermittentfever.

Afterthesunhadsetwedinedoutsidethetents,andafterwardsreclinedonourcarpetstoenjoythecoolbalmyairofanEasternnight.Wesleptundertheopensky,makingourbedsinthefield.

Julyhadsetin,andwewerenowin"theeyeofthesummer."Mycompanionshadbeenunabletoresistitsheat.Onebyonewedroppedoffwithfever.TheDoctor,afterlongsuffering,hadgonewithMr.WalpoletothecoolerregionsoftheKurdishhills,theretowaituntilthestateoftheexcavationsmightenablemetojointhem.Mr.Cooper,too,hadsomuch

declinedinhealththatIsenthimtotheconventofMarMetti,onthesummitoftheGebelMakloub.Mr.HormuzdRassamandmyselfstruggledonthelongest,butatlengthwealsogaveway.Fortunatelyouragueattacksdidnotcoincide.Wewereprostratealternatedays,andwere,therefore,abletotakechargealternatelyoftheworks.Bythe11thofJulyIhadsenttoBusrahthefirstcollectionofsculpturesfromKouyunjik,andonthatday,inthemiddleofthehotstageoffever,andhalfdelirious,IleftMosulforthemountains.

Whilenecessarilyabsent,Ideterminedtovisitthosepartsofcentral

7/31/2019 Ninevah


KurdistannotyetexploredbyEuropeantravellers,todevotesomedaystotheexaminationoftheruinsandcuneiforminscriptionsinandnearthecityofWan,andthentoreturntoMosulthroughtheunexploreduplandstothesouthofthelakeofWan,andbysuchoftheNestorianvalleysasIhadnotseenduringmyformerjourneyinthemountains.IshouldthenspendthehottestpartofthesummerinthecoolregionsofKurdistan,andbeagainatNinevehbySeptember,whentheheatsbegintodecline.

AsfewEuropeantravellerscanbravetheperpendicularraysofanAssyriansun,westruckourtentslateintheafternoon,andgotuponourhorsesatthefootofthemoundofKouyunjikasthesunwentdown.WithmewereHormuzd,myoldservants,andthefaithfulBairakdar.Mr.Cooperwastojoinusonthefollowingday,andweweretoseektheDoctorandMr.WalpoleatAkra.

Fivehours'rideovertheplainbroughtustothesmallTurcomanvillageofBirHillan(thewellofstone),whichstandsonthesouth-easternspuroftheMakloubhills.Aftertwohours'restwecontinuedourjourney,andcrossedthisspurbeforemorningdawned.LeavingtheGebelMakloub,wedescendedintoabroadplain,stretchingfromittothefirstKurdishrange,andsoonfoundourselvesonthebanksoftheGhazir,hereaclearsparklingstreamclothedwithtalloleanders,nowbendingundertheirrosyblossoms.Wesoughttheshadeofsomespreadingwalnut-trees,duringtheheatoftheday,nearthesmallKurdishvillageofKaimawa.

HereMr.Cooperjoinedus,andwewereagainonourwayintheafternoon.InsteadofstrikingforthemountainsbythedirectpathacrosstheplainofNavkur,werodealongthefootofarangeoflowhills,formingitswesternboundary,tothelargeKurdishvillageofBardaresh.Havingrestedforafewhours,wedescendedinthemiddleofthenightintoaplainreceivingthedrainageofthesurroundinghighlands,andduringtherainyseasonalmostimpassablefrommud.Artificialmounds,theremainsofancientcivilisation,butofsmallsizewhencomparedwiththegreatruinsofAssyria,riseamongstthehovelsoftheKurdishpeasants.

AfterwehadcrossedtheparchedandburningplainweenteredavalleyintheKurdishhills,wateredbyastreamcalledMelikorGherasin.Wehadto

climbovermuchbrokenground--rockyridgeandravine--beforereachingtheslopeofthemountaincoveredwiththegardensandorchardsofAkra.Wetarriedforamomentatacoolspringrisinginanaturalgrotto,andcollectedintotwolargebasins.

WehadnodifficultyinfindingourEuropeanfellow-travellers.ThefirstKurdwemetpointedtowardsawell-woodedgarden;aboveitstreespeeredtheirwhitetents.Aswerodeintoit,however,noonecameouttowelcomeus.Ienteredthefirsttent,andthere,stretchedontheircarpets,inastateofhalf-consciousness,thepreytocountlessflies,laytheDoctorandMr.Walpole.ItwaswithdifficultyIcouldrousethemtolearnthehistoryoftheirfever.Thewholepartywereinthesamestate;theservantsprostrateliketheirmasters.Ilostnotimeinenforcinga

systemofdiet,andplacingmypatientsunderacourseoftreatmentforague,withwhichlongexperiencehadgivenmesomeacquaintance.

Somedayselapsedbeforemycompanionswereabletojourney.Itookadvantageofthedelaytovisitsomebas-reliefsneartheneighbouringvillageofGunduk.TherearetwosculpturedtabletsintherocksaboveGunduk.Theyhavebeencarvedatthemouthofaspaciousnaturalcavern,whoseroofisfrettedwithstalactites,anddownwhosesidestricklescoolclearwater,andhangdankfernsandcreepingplants.ItiscalledGuppad'MarYohanna,orthecureofSt.John,andnearitisanancient

7/31/2019 Ninevah


NestorianchurchdedicatedtoSaintAudishio.Thebas-reliefsareAssyrian.Theupperrepresentsamanslayingawildgoatwithaspear.Inthelower,asfarasIcoulddistinguishthesculpture,whichishighontherockandmuchinjured,aretwowomenfacingeachother,andseatedonstools.Eachholdsachildaboveakindofbasinorcircularvessel,asifintheactofbaptizingit.Behindtheseatedfemaletotheleft,afigurebearsathirdchild,andisfollowedbyawoman.Ontheoppositesideisagroupofthreepersons,apparentlysacrificingananimal.Therearenotracesofinscriptionsonornearthetablets.

Onthe17thJulymycompanionswereabletomovetothehighermountains.Wealllongedforacoolerclimate,andwerejoicedasatsunriseweleftourgarden.Aprecipitousanddifficultpathleadsupthemountain.Fromthesummitofthepass,theeyewandersovertheplainsofNavkurandSheikhan,thebrokenhillcountryaroundArbil,andthewindingsoftheZabandtheGhazir.OntheoppositesideisadeepvalleydividingtheAkrahillsfromasecondandloftierrange.Throughthevalleyranabroadclearstream,oneoftheconfluentsoftheZab,calledbytheKurdsDurushoorBairaisho.[155]Werodealongitsbanksfornearlyanhour,andthenstruckintoanarrowgorgethicklywoodedwithoak.AnotherstonyandprecipitouspasswasbetweenusandtheprincipaldistrictofZibari.DescendingintothelowcountrywerodebythevillageofBirikapra,theresidenceofMustafaAgha,theformerheadoftheZibaritribes.Thepresentchief,NametAgha,dwellsatHeren,abouttwomilesbeyond.Hehad

latelybeenatMosultoreceivefromthePashahiscloakofinvestiture,andduringhisvisithadbeenmyguest.HisabilitiesandacquirementswereabovetheordinaryKurdishstandard,whichindeedislowenough;for,astheArabproverbdeclares,"BetheKurdaKurdoraprophet,hewillstillbeabear."HespokePersianwithfluency,andwasnotignorantofArabic.AshewaswellacquaintedwiththegeographyofKurdistan,Ilearntfromhimmanyinterestingparticularsrelatingtotheless-knowndistrictsofthemountains.

Thechiefwelcomedmewithfriendlywarmth;and,althoughforbiddentoeathimself,hedidnotleavehisguestsuncaredfor.Thebreakfastbroughttousfromhisharemcomprisedavarietyofsweetmeatsandsavourydishes,whichdidcredittotheskilloftheKurdishladies.

IwasthebearerofalettertohimfromthePasha:noacceptablecommunication,however,asittreatedofnewtaxes,asubjectverygenerallydisagreeable,upontobacco,cotton,andfruit,whichtheZibariKurdswerenowcalleduponforthefirsttimetopay.Thesalian,too,akindofpropertytax,wasraisedfromtwenty-fivetosixtythousandpiastres(about550_l._).ThelatesuccessfulexpeditionsagainstthechiefsofBohtanandHakkiarihadencouragedthePortetoaskmoneyofthepreviouslyindependenttribesunderNametAgha;andalthoughnoTurkishtroopshadyetenteredtheirmountains,theKurdsdeemeditadvisabletocomplyforthepresentwiththedemandratherthanruntheriskofaninvasion,andastillmoredreadedevil,theconscription.

NametAgha'sauthorityextendedoverZibari,Shirwan,Gherdi,Baradost,andShemdeena,fromAkratothePersianfrontier.ThesedistrictsareoccupiedbydifferentKurdishtribes,eachhavingitsownchief;buttheyhadthensubmittedtotheAghaofZibari,andpaidtheirtributethroughhimtothegovernorofMosul.Nametplacedmeundertheprotectionofhiscousin,MullahAgha,whowasorderedtoescortustothebordersofthepashalicofHakkiari,nowoccupiedbytheTurkishtroops.Ourguidewasatallsinewymountaineer,dressedinthemany-coloredloosegarments,andhugeredandblackturbanfoldedroundthehighconicalfeltcap,whichgivesapeculiarandungainlyappearancetotheinhabitantsofcentral

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Kurdistan.Hewasaccompaniedbythreeattendants,andallwereonfoot,theprecipitousandrockypathwaysofthemountainsbeingscarcelypracticableforhorses,whicharerarelykeptbutbythechiefs.Theycarriedtheirlongriflesacrosstheirshoulders,andenormousdaggersintheirgirdles.

WeleftHerenearlyonthemorningofthe19th,andsoonreachingtheZabrodefortwohoursalongitsbanks,toaspotwhereasmallrafthadbeenmadereadyforustocrossthestream.Wehadsomedifficultyincrossing,andwerecompelledtopassthenightinthesmallvillageofRizan,neartheferry,asoneofthebaggage-mulesrefusedtoswimthestream,andwasnotforcedoveruntilneardawnofthefollowingmorning.

Wenowenteredthetractwhichhasprobablybeenfollowedforagesbythemountainclansintheirperiodicalmigrations.Besidesthesedentarypopulationofthesedistricts,therearecertainnomadeKurdishtribecalledKochers,whosubsistentirelybytheirflocks.Theyarenotoriouspettythievesandrobbers,andduringtheirannualmigrationscommitseriousdepredationsuponthesettledinhabitantsofthedistrictontheirway,andmoreespeciallyupontheChristians.Astheypossessvastflocksofsheepandherdsofcattle,theirtrackhasinmostplacestheappearanceofabeatenroad,andis,consequently,well-fittedforbeastsofburden.

Onthe21stJuly,crossingahighridge,weleftthedistrictofZibari,andenteredthatofShirwan,whosechief,MiranBey,cameouttomeetusattheheadofhisarmedretainers.HeledustothelargevillageofBersiyah,situatedbeneathaboldandloftypeakcalledPiran.Mostofthevillagesinthesemountainshavesmallmudforts,witheitherfourorsixtowers,--theplacesofrefugeanddefenceofthenumerouspettychiefsduringtheirfrequentbroilsandblood-feuds.WemetafewJewishfamilieswhowanderfromvillagetovillage.Themenarepedlarsandgoldsmiths,andarenotunwelcomeguests,evenintheintolerantfamiliesoftheKurds,astheymakeandrefashiontheornamentsoftheladies.

Ononeofthemanytoweringpeaks,isthelargevillageofKhan-i-resh,withitsorchardsandgardens,theresidenceofthechiefofthedistrict

ofBaradost.Wereacheditbyaveryrapidascentinanhourandahalf.[156]

WewerereceivedbytheMir,FezullahBey,[157]inaspaciouschamber,supportedbywoodenpillars,andcompletelyopenonthesidefacingthevalley,overwhichitcommandedanextensiveandbeautifulprospect.ThoughquiterestiveundertheTurkishcontrol,hereceivedMullahAghawithcivility,andreadthelettersofintroductionfromNametAgha,ofwhichIwasthebearer.Likemostofthemountainchiefs,hespokePersian,thelanguageusedinKurdistanforallwrittencommunications,andinbooks,excepttheKoranandafewpiousworks,whichareinArabic.TheKurdishdialectsaremerecorruptionsofthePersian,andarenot,withrareexceptions,employedinwriting.

TheMirpressedmetopassthenightwithhimashisguest;butafterpartakingofhisbreakfast,Icontinuedmyjourney,andreached,bysunset,thesmallturretedstrongholdofBeygishni.

ThenextmorningwecrossedoneoftheshouldersoftheloftypeakofSer-i-Resh,intothevalleyofChappata.WeweremetonthewaybyapartyofNestorians,whohadcomeouttoseeme,headedbythebrotheroftheBishopofGherdi.HewalkedbymeasfarasZernin,thecastleoftheKurdishchief,andthenleftarelationtoguideustothedwellingofthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


BishopofShemesdinorShemdeena.Asusual,hecomplainedofbitteroppressionandinjusticefromtheKurdishMirs,whohadlatelydrivenalargepartoftheChristianpopulationacrossthefrontiersintoPersia.

AfterenjoyingthehospitalityofIahyaBey,theMirofGherdi,atthevillageofRua,weleftthenakedhillswhichskirttheAssyrianplains,andenteredthewoodeddistrictsofKurdistan.Onthefollowingdaywejourneyedthroughavalleythickwithwalnutsandotherlargetrees,andfollowedthewindingsofastream,calledbytheKurdsShambo,oneoftheprincipalconfluentsoftheZab.Wecrossedit,backwardsandforwards,bywickersuspensionbridges,untilweascended,throughaforestoforchardswateredbyinnumerablestreamlets,toNera,thevillageofMousaBey,thechiefofShemdina.Wepitchedourtentsnearsomespringsonanopenlawn,andwaitedthereturnofanagedservantwhohadbeendisturbedbythenoiseofourcaravan,andhadundertakentoannounceourarrivaltohismaster.

Wehadevidentlytodealwithamanofcivilisationandluxury,fortheoldKurdshortlyreturnedfollowedbynumerousattendants,bearingsherbetsandvariousPersiandelicacies,inchinabowls.MousaBeyhimselfcametousintheafternoon,andhismannersandconversationconfirmedtheimpressionthathisbreakfasthadproduced.IntercoursewithPersia,beyondwhosefrontiershisowntribesometimeswandered,hadtaughthimthemannersandlanguageofhisneighbours.Hetoldmethathewas

descendedfromoneofthemostancientofKurdishfamilies,whoserecordsformanyhundredyearsstillexist;andheboastedthatSheikhTahar,thegreatsaint,haddeemedhimtheonlychiefworthy,fromhisindependenceoftheinfidelgovernmentoftheSultan,toreceivesoholyapersonageashimselfafterthedownfallofBederKhanBey.ThisSheikhTahar,whoasthemaininstigatorofmanyatrociousmassacresoftheChristians,andespeciallyoftheNestorians,oughttohavebeenpursuedintotheuttermostpartsofthemountainsbytheTurkishtroops,andhangedasapublicexample,wasnowsufferingfromfever.Hesenttomeformedicine;butashissanctitywouldnotpermithimtosee,facetoface,anunbelievingFrank,andashewishedtohavearemedywithoutgoingthroughtheusualformofaninterviewwiththeDoctor,Ideclinedgivinghimanyhelpinthematter.

MousaBeywasatthistimealmosttheonlychiefinKurdistanwhohadnotyetmadeaformalsubmissiontotheTurkishgovernment.Histerritorieswere,therefore,aplaceofrefugeforthosefugitiveswho,lessfortunatethanhimself,hadbeendrivenfromtheirstrongholdsbythearmsorintriguesofthePorte.Hebewailedthediscordswhichseveredthetribes,andmadethemaneasypreytotheOsmanli.TheTurks,wiseintheirgeneration,havepursuedtheirusualpolicysuccessfullyinKurdistan;thedissensionsofthechiefshavebeenfomented,and,thusdivided,theyhavefallenonebyonevictimstotreacheryortoforce.

Weroseearlyonthefollowingday,andleftNeralongbeforethepopulationwasstirring,byaverysteeppathway,windingoverthefaceof

aprecipice,andcompletelyoverhangingthevillage.ReachingthetopofthepasswecameuponanaturalcarpetofAlpineflowersofeveryhue,spreadovertheeasterndeclivityofthemountain.Leavingthecaravantoproceedtoournight'sresting-place,IturneddownthevalleywithmycompanionstovisitthebishopofShemisdenathisconvent[158]ofMarHananisho.

Arideofthreequartersofanhourbroughtustotheepiscopalresidence.[159]MarIsho,thebishop,metmeatsomedistancefromit.Hewasshabbilydressed,andnotofprepossessingappearance;butheappeared

7/31/2019 Ninevah


tobegood-natured,andtohaveafairstockofcommonsense.Afterwehadexchangedthecommonsalutations,seatedonabankofwildthyme,heledthewaytotheporchofthechurch.Raggedcarpetsandfeltshadbeenspreadinthedarkvestibule,inthemidstofsacksofcorn,bourghoul,andotherprovisionsforthebishop'sestablishment.Variousrudeagriculturalinstruments,andspinningwheels,almostfilleduptherestoftheroom;fortheseprimitiveChristiansrelyonthesanctityoftheirplacesofworshipfortheprotectionoftheirtemporalstores.Thetitleofthebishopis"MetropolitanofRoustak,"anameofwhichIcouldnotlearntheorigin.HisjurisdictionextendsovermanyNestorianvillageschieflyinthevalleyofShemisden.HalfofthisdistrictiswithinthePersianterritories,andfromtheconventwecouldseethefrontierdominionsoftheShah.ItisinthehighroadoftheperiodicalmigrationsofthegreattribeofHerki,whopasslikealocust-cloudtwiceayearoverthesettlementsoftheunfortunateChristians,drivingbeforethemtheflocks,spoilingthegranaries,andcarryingawayeventhemiserablefurnitureofthehovels.ItisinvainthatthesuffererscarrytheircomplaintstotheirKurdishmaster;_he_takesfromthemdoublethelawfultaxesandtithes.TheTurkishgovernmenthasinthispartofthemountainsnopower,ifithadtheinclination,toprotectitsChristiansubjects.

Afterwehadpartakenofthefrugalbreakfastofmilk,honey,andfruitpreparedforusbythebishop,weturnedagainintothehighroadtoBash-Kalah.Wehadanotherpasstocrossbeforedescendingintothevalley

ofHarouna,whereourcaravanhadencampedforthenight.OnthemountaintopwereseveralNestorianfamiliescrouching,halfnaked,forshelterbeneathaprojectingrock.Theyseizedthebridlesofourhorsesaswerodeby,beseechingustohelpthemtorecovertheirlittleproperty,which,butafewhoursbefore,hadbeensweptawaybyapartyofHerkiKurds.Icoulddonothingforthesepoorpeople,whoseemedinthelaststageofmisery.

Fromthesummitofthepasswelookeddownintotwodeepandwell-woodedvalleys,hemmedinbymountainsofsingularlypicturesqueform.Wedescendedintothemorenorthernvalley,andpassingthemiserableNestorianhamletofSourasor,andtheruinedchurchanddesertedChristianvillageofTellana,reachedourtentsaboutsunset.Theywerepitchednear

Harouna,whoseNestorianinhabitantsweretoopoortofurnishuswitheventhecommoncoarseblackbreadofbarley.

Wehadnowquittedthesemi-independentKurdishvalleys,andhadenteredthenewlycreatedprovinceofHakkiari,governedbyaPasha,whoresidesatBash-Kalah.TheadjacentplainofGhaouris,however,exposedtothedepredationsoftheHerkiKurds,who,whenpursuedbytheTurkishtroops,seekasecureretreatintheirrockyfastnesses,beyondthelimitsofthepashalic.

Thedistrictcontainsmanyvillages,inhabitedbyahardyandindustriousraceofNestorianChristians.TheAmericanmissionariesofOoroomiyahhavecrossedthefrontiersincemyvisit,andhave,Iaminformed,opened

schoolsinthemwithencouragingprospectsofsuccess.GhaourisaNestorianbishopric.

Arideofsixhoursanda-halfbroughtustothelargevillageofDizza,thechiefplaceofthedistrict,andtheresidenceofaTurkishMudir,orpettygovernor.ThisofficewasfilledbyoneAdelBey,withwhomIfoundmyoldfriendIsmailAghaofTepelin,whohadshownmehospitalitythreeyearsbeforeintheruinedcastleofAmadiyah.[160]HewasnowincommandoftheAlbaniantroopsformingpartofthegarrison.Achangehadcomeoverhimsincewelastmet.Thejacketandarmswhichhadonceglittered

7/31/2019 Ninevah


withgold,werenowgreasyanddull.Hisfacewasaswornashisgarments.Afteracordialgreetinghemademealongspeechonhisfortunes,andonthatofAlbanianirregularsingeneral."Ah!Bey,"saidhe,"thepowerandwealthoftheOsmanlisisatanend.TheSultanhasnolongeranyauthority.TheaccursedTanzimat(Reform)hasbeentheruinofallgoodmen.Why,seeBey,Iamobligedtoliveuponmypay;Icannoteatfromthetreasury,norcanIsqueezeapiastre--whatdoIsay,apiastre?notamiserablehalf-starvedfowl,outofthevillagers,eventhoughtheybeChristians.Forsooththeymusttalktomeaboutreform,andaskformoney!TheAlbanian'soccupationisgone.EvenTafil-Bousi(acelebratedAlbaniancondottiere)smokeshispipe,andbecomesfatlikeaTurk.ItisthewillofGod.Ihaveforswornraki,IbelieveintheKoran,andIkeepRamazan."

Thenightwasexceedinglycold.Thechangefromtheheatoftheplainstothecoolnightsofthemountainshadmadehavocamongstourparty.Nearlyallourservantswerelaidupwithfever,aswellastheDoctorandMr.Walpole,whohadrarelybeenfreefromitsattacksduringthejourney.Icouldnot,however,delay,andonthefollowingmorningoursicklycaravanwasagaintoilingoverthehills.WehadnowenteredtheArmeniandistricts.TheChristianinhabitantsofDizzaareofthatraceandfaith.WeencampedforthenightattheKurdishvillageofPerauniss.

NextdaywefordedabranchoftheZab,andenteredthevalleyofthisgreatconfluentoftheTigris,itsprincipalsourcebeingbutafewmiles

tothenorthofus,nearthefrontiersofPersia.Thelandissoheavy,thattherudeploughofthecountryrequiresfrequentlyasmanyaseightpairsofoxen.TheArmenianploughmensitontheyokes,andwhilstguidingorurgingthebeastswithalongiron-pointedgoad,chantamonotonousdittytowhichtheanimalsappearsowellaccustomed,thatwhenthedriverceasesfromhisdirge,theyalsostopfromtheirlabors.

AdellnearourpathwaspointedouttomeasthespotwheretheunfortunatetravellerSchulzwasmurderedbyNurUllahBey,theKurdishchiefofHakkiari.Turningupanarrowvalleytowardsthehighmountains,wesuddenlycameinsightofthecastleofBash-Kalah,oneoftheancientstrongholdsofKurdistan.Itspositionisremarkablypicturesque.Itstandsonaloftyrock,juttingoutfromthemountainswhichriseina

perpendicularwallbehindit.Atthefootaregroupedthehousesofavillage.IfoundIzzetPashaencampedataconsiderableelevationintherockyravine[161],whichwereached,guidedbycawassescarryinghugeglasslanterns,byaveryprecipitousanddifficulttrack.Iremainedwithhimuntilthenightwasfaradvanced,andthenreturnedtoourencampment.HeinformedmethattherewasadirectroadfromBash-KalahtoMosuloffortyhours,throughBeit-Shebbet,Daoudiyah,andDohuk,which,withverylittlelaborandexpense,couldbemadepracticableforguns.

Bash-Kalahwasformerlythedwelling-placeofNurUllahBey,aKurdishchiefwell-knownforhisrapaciousandblood-thirstycharacter,andasthemurdererofSchulz.HejoinedBederKhanBeyinthegreatmassacresoftheNestorians,andformanyyearssorelyvexedthoseChristianswhowere

withinhisrule.AfteralongresistancetothetroopsoftheSultan,hewascapturedabouttwoyearsbeforemyvisit,andbanishedforlifetotheislandofCandia.

Mycompanionsandservantsbeingmuchinwantofrest,IstoppedadayatBash-Kalah.OnresumingourjourneywetookadirectthoughdifficulttracktoWanonlyopeninthemiddleofsummer.Followingasmallstream,weenteredaravineleadingintotheveryheartofthemountains.Threehours'ride,alwaysrapidlyascendingalongthebanksoftherivulet,broughtustoalargeencampment.Thefeaturesofthewomenandofthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


men,whocameoutoftheirtentsaswerodeup,aswellasthetongueinwhichtheyaddressedoneanother,showedatoncethattheywerenotKurds.TheywereJews,shepherdsandwanderers,ofthestock,maybe,ofthosewho,withtheirhighpriest,Hyrcanus,werecarriedawaycaptivefromJerusalembyTigranesinthesecondcenturyofourera,andplacedinthecityandneighbourhoodofWan.Theirdescendants,twohundredyearsafter,werealreadysonumerousthatShapour(Sapores)II.destroyednolessthan10,000familiesinWanalone.

WeencampedneartheJewishnomades,andIvisitedtheirtents,butcouldlearnnothingoftheirhistory.Theyfedtheirflocks,astheirfathershaddonebeforethem,inthesehills,andpaidtaxestothegovernorofBash-Kalah.

WehadnowreachedthehigherregionsofKurdistan.[162]Nextmorningwesoonleftthenarrowfloweryvalleyandthebrawlingstream,andenteredanundulatinguplandcoveredwithdeepsnow,considerablymorethantenthousandfeetabovethelevelofthesea.Onallsidesofusweretoweringpeaks,andtothewestaperfectseaofmountains,includingtheloftyrangesofHakkiariandBohtan.FarawaytothenorthwastheazurebasinofLakeWan,andbeyonditrosethesolitarywhiteconeoftheSubhanDagh.

Descendingrapidly,andpassing,nearthefootofthemountain,oneortwo

miserable,half-desertedKurdishhamlets,weenteredalongnarrowravine,shutinbyperpendicularcliffsofsandstoneandconglomerate.ThisoutletofthemountainstreamsopensintothevalleyofMahmoudiyah,inthecentreofwhichrisesanisolatedrockcrownedbythepicturesquecastleofKosh-Ab.

Wepitchedourtentsonagreenlawn,nearthebankofthefoamingstreamwhichsweepsroundthefootofthecastellatedrock.SoonafterourarrivalaKurdishBey,ofvenerableappearance,adescendantofthehereditarychiefsofMahmoudiyah,calleduponme.Hehadoncebeentheownerofthecastle,butithadbeenwrestedfromhimbytwobrothers,namedKhanMuradandKhanAbdal,meremountainrobbers.InthisstrongholdthebrotherslongdefiedtheTurkishgovernment,levyingblack-mailupon

suchcaravansasventuredtopassthroughtheirterritories,andoppressingwithfinesandforcedconversionstheirChristiansubjects.Itwasbuttheyearbeforeourvisitthattheyhadyieldedtothetroopssentagainstthem,andhadbeensentintobanishment,withtherestoftherebelchiefs,toCandia.

WiththeKurdishBeycameoneAhmedAgha,achiefofthelargebordertribeofMogri,anintelligentman,whoconversedfreelyonthestateofthecountry,andgavemesomeinterestinginformationregardingthefrontiers.ThefearoftheconscriptionhasdrivenmanyfamiliesintoPersia,andintothemoreindependentdistrictsofKurdistan.Onthewhole,thewanderingtribesarebecominglessformidabletothePortethantheyformerlywere.

TotheeastofthedistrictofMahmoudiyah,andinthatofKarasou,aremanyYezidivillagesandaconsiderableJewishpopulation.[163]BothracesaremuchoppressedbytheKurdishchiefs,whotaketheirproperty,andeventheirlives,withperfectindifference,"theCadis,"asAhmedAghainformedme,"havinggiven_fetwahs_(decrees)thatbothwerelawfultothetruebeliever."

Weroseearlynextmorning,andwentuptothecastle.Itisfallingintoruins,thoughitstowersstillriseboldlyfromtheedgeoftheprecipice,

7/31/2019 Ninevah


overhangingatagiddyheightthevalleybelow.Inthem,opentothecoolbreezesofthemountain,arethedwelling-roomsoftheoldKurdishchiefs,adornedwithtastefullattice-work,andwiththepaintedpanellingsandgildedcornicesofPersia.TheyarenowtenantedbytheTurkishtroops,whosebrightarmsandhighly-polishedkitchenutensilshangonthegaudywalls.Afterdrinkingcoffeeandsmokingpipeswiththecaptainoftheguard,wewalkeddownthenarrowpathwayleadingtothevalley,and,mountingourhorses,joinedthecaravan,whichhadprecededusontheroadtoWan.

OnthefollowingmorningwecrossedthisvalleytoNourtchouk,attheoutskirtsofwhichIwasmetbythepriestattheheadoftheinhabitants.ArangeoflowhillsnowseparatedusfromtheplainandlakeofWan.Wesoonreachedtheircrest,andalandscapeofsurpassingbeautywasbeforeus.Atourfeet,intenselyblueandsparklingintheraysofthesun,wastheinlandsea,withthesublimepeakoftheSubhanDagh,mirroredinitstransparentwaters.Thecity,withitscastle-crownedrockanditsembattledwallsandtowers,layemboweredinorchardsandgardens.Toourrightaruggedsnow-cappedmountainopenedmidwayintoanamphitheatre,inwhich,amidstloftytrees,stoodtheArmenianconventofYediKlissia(thesevenchurches).TothewestofthelakewastheNimroudDagh,andthehighlandsnourishingthesourcesofthegreatriversofMesopotamia.Thehillsformingtheforegroundofourpicturewerecarpetedwiththebrightestflowers,overwhichwanderedtheflocks,whilstthegaily

dressedshepherdsgatheredaroundusaswehaltedtocontemplatetheenchantingscene.

WenowdescendedrapidlytowardsWan,andasweissuedintotheplain,apartyofhorsemengallopedtowardsus.IsoonrecognisedamongstthemmyfriendMr.Bowen;withhimweretheCawass-Bashiandatroopofirregularcavalry,sentoutbythePashatoescortmeintothecity.Nordidthegovernor'skindnessendwiththisdisplayofwelcome.Afterwindingfornearlyanhourthroughorchardsandgardens,whosetreeswerebendingundertheweightoffruit,andthenthroughthenarrowandcrowdedstreets,wewereledtohisseraiorpalace,which,suchasitwas,hadbeenmadereadyforouruse,andwherehistreasurerwaswaitingtoreceiveus.Notwithstandingthefast,anabundantbreakfastofvarious

meatsandsweetmesses,cookedaftertheTurkishfashion,hadbeenpreparedforus,andwesoonfoundreposeuponaspaciousdivan,surroundedbyalltheluxuriesofEasternlife.

[Illustration:KurdsofWan.]

CHAPTERXVIII.

MEHEMETPASHA.--DESCRIPTIONOFWAN.--ITSHISTORY.--IMPROVEMENTINITS

CONDITION.--THEARMENIANBISHOP.--THECUNEIFORMINSCRIPTIONS.--THECAVESOFKHORKHOR.--THEMEHERKAPOUSI.--ATRADITION.--OBSERVATIONSONTHEINSCRIPTIONS.--THEBAIRAM.--ANARMENIANSCHOOL.--THEAMERICANMISSIONS.--PROTESTANTMOVEMENTINTURKEY.--AMIKH.--THECONVENTOFYEDIKLISSIA.

MehemetPashawaslivingduringthefastofRamazaninakioskinoneofthegardensoutsidethecitywalls.Wehadscarcelyeaten,beforehecamehimselftowelcomeustoWan.HewasthesonofthelastBostandji-Bashi

7/31/2019 Ninevah


ofConstantinople,andhavingbeenbroughtupfromachildintheimperialpalace,wasamanofpleasinganddignifiedmanners,andofconsiderableinformation.Althoughhehadneverlefthisnativecountry,hewasnotignorantofthehabitsandcustomsofEurope.HehadlongservedtheSultanindifficultandresponsibleposts,andtohisdiscretionandsagacitywaschieflytobeattributedthesubjugationofBeder-KhanBeyandtherebelKurdishtribes.Hisrulewasmildandconciliating,andhepossessedthosequalitiessorareinaTurkishgovernor,yetsoindispensabletothecivilisationandwell-beingoftheempire,--astricthonestyintheadministrationoftherevenuesofhisprovince,andasenseofjusticebeyondthereachofbribes.FromChristiansandKurdswehadreceivedduringourjourneythroughhispashalic,thehighesttestimonytohistoleranceandintegrity.

IntheeveningIreturnedhisvisit,andfoundhimsurroundedbythechiefsandeldersofthecity,andbytheofficersofhishousehold.Isatwithhimtillmidnight,thetimepassinginthatagreeableconversationwhichawell-educatedTurksowellknowshowtosustain.

IremainedaweekatWan,chieflyengagedincopyingthecuneiforminscriptions,andinexaminingitsnumerousremarkablemonumentsofantiquity.

Thecityisofveryancientdate.Itstandsonthebordersofalargeand

beautifullake,asiteeminentlysuitedtoaprosperouscommunity.Theloftymountainsborderingtheinlandseatotheeast,hererecedeintheformofanamphitheatre,leavingarichplainfiveorsixmilesinbreadth,inthemidstofwhichrisesanisolatedcalcareousrock.Tothesummitofthisnaturalstronghold,thereisnoapproach,exceptonthewesternside,whereagradualbutnarrowascentisdefendedbythewallsandbastions.Fromtheearliestagesithasconsequentlybeentheacropolisofthecity,andnopositioncouldbestrongerbeforethediscoveryoftheenginesofmodernwarfare.Thefortificationsandcastle,ofacomparativelyrecentdate,arenowinruins,andarescarcelydefensible,withtheirfewrustyguns,againsttheattacksoftheneighbouringKurds.

AccordingtoArmenianhistory,theAssyrianqueenSemiramisfoundedthecity;ithavingfallentodecay,itissaidtohavebeenrebuilt,shortlybeforetheinvasionofAlexandertheGreat,byanArmeniankingnamedWan,afterwhomitwassubsequentlycalled.Itappearstohavebeenagainabandoned,forwefindthatitwasoncemoreraisedfromitsfoundationsinthesecondcenturyB.C.byVagharschag,thefirstkingoftheArsaciandynastyofArmenia,whomadeitthestrongestcityinthekingdom.IntheeleventhcenturyitwascededbytheroyalfamilyoftheArdz-rounistotheGreekemperors,fromwhomitwastakenbytheSeljukTurks.Itfell,in1392,intothehandsofTimourlane,who,accordingtohiscustom,gavetheinhabitantsovertothesword.Eveninhisday,thegreatmonumentsofsolidstone,raisedbytheAssyrianqueen,werestillshowntothestranger.

MosesofChorene,theearlyhistorianofArmenia,hasfaithfullydescribeditspositionanditsantiquities;theisolatedhill,risinginthemidstofabroadplaincoveredwithflourishingvillages,andwateredbyinnumerablestreams;thechapels,chambers,treasuries,andcavernscutinthelivingrock,andthegreatinscriptionswritten,asitwere,onthefaceoftheprecipice,aspagesarewrittenwithapenonwax.

Thefirsttravellerwho,inmoderntimes,examinedtheremarkableremainsofantiquityatWanwastheunfortunateSchulz.Hevisitedtheplacein

7/31/2019 Ninevah


1827.Thecuneiforminscriptionscarvedontherockwereknowntoexistlongbeforehisday,buthewasthefirsttocopythem,andfromhiscopiestheyhavebeenpublishedbytheAsiaticSocietyofFrance.SincethetimeofSchulz,thecityhasundergonemanychanges.ItwasseizedbytherebelKurdishchief,KhanMahmoud;butaftermanyvainattemptsmadetorecovertheplace,itfinallyyieldedtwoyearsbeforemyjourney.UnderthemildruleofMehemetPashaitwasrapidlyrisingtoprosperity.TheprotectionhehadgiventotheArmenianshadencouragedthatenterprisingandindustriouspeopletoenlargetheircommerce,andtobuildwarehousesfortrade.Twohandsomekhans,withbazarsattached,werenearlyfinished.ShopsforthesaleofEuropeanarticlesofclothingandofluxuryhadbeenopened;and,whatwasofstillmoreimportance,severalnativeschoolshadalreadybeenestablished.TheseimprovementswerechieflyduetooneSharân,anArmenianmerchantandamanofliberalandenlightenedviews,whohadsecondedwithenergyandliberalitythedesireofthePashatoamelioratethesocialconditionoftheChristianpopulation.[164]

Shortlyaftermyarrival,theArmenianbishopcalleduponme.Hewasdressedinthepeculiarcostumeofhisorder,--longblackrobesandacapaciousblackhoodalmostconcealinghishead,--andwasaccompaniedbythepriestsandprincipallaymenofhisdiocese.OnhisbreastheworetherichdiamondcrescentandstaroftheTurkishorderofmerit,ofwhichhewasjustlyproud.Althoughhehadbeendulyelectedseveralyearsbefore

tohisepiscopaldignity,hestillwantedtheformalconsecrationofthepatriarchofhischurch,owingtodifficultiesconnectedwiththepoliticalpositionofthepatriarch;hewasnow,however,ontheeveofhisdeparturetoreceivethatconsecrationwhichwasessentialtohisdueadmissionintotheArmenianhierarchy.

ThemoderntownofWanstandsatthefoot,andtothesouthof,theisolatedrock.Itsstreetsandbazarsaresmall,narrow,anddirty;butitshousesarenotillbuilt.Itissurroundedbyfruitfulgardensandorchards,irrigatedbyartificialrivuletsderivedfromthestreamsrisingintheYediKlissiamountains.Itmaycontainbetweentwelveandfifteenthousandinhabitants.Thewholepashalicatthetimeofmyvisitpaidanannualsumofsixthousandpurses(about27,000_l._)totheTurkish

treasury.Inthetowntherewasagarrisonofathousandfootandfivehundredhorse,andthecommanderofthetroopsinthedistrictandintheadjoiningprovinceofHakkiariwasattheheadoffivethousandmen.[165]

TheoldhereditarypashasofWan,aswellastheprincipalfamilies,wereofTurkishorigin,andcame,Iwasinformedbysomeoftheirdescendants,fromKonia(Iconium),aboutthreehundredyearsago.Thechiefs,however,ofthesurroundingdistrictsareKurds.Twofamilies,namedtheTopchi-oglusandtheTimour-oglus,dividedthetownintooppositefactions,whichwerecontinuallyatwar,andcarriedtheirbloodyfeudsalmostdailyintothestreets.TheTimour-ogluswerethemostpowerful,anditwasthroughtheirmeansthatKhanMahmoudpossessedhimselfoftheplace.

TheinscriptionsofWanareoftwodistinctperiods,thoughallofthecuneiformwriting.ThemostancientareinacharacteridenticalwiththatontheoldestmonumentsofAssyria.Theearliestinscriptionsarefoundontwosquarestonesbuiltintoawallnearthewesterngatewayofthecity,andimmediatelybeneaththeonlyentrancetothecastle.ThelanguageoftheseinscriptionsappearstobeAssyrian,whilstthatofalltheothersispeculiartoWan.Neverthelessthenamesofthekingsinthemcanbegenealogicallyconnectedwiththoseontheothermonuments.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


ButthemostimportantrecordsatWanarecarvedonthesouthernfaceoftheisolatedrock,roundtheentrancetoasetofexcavatedchambers,probablyonceservingastombs.Asthoseinscriptionsrecordthevictoriesanddeedsofamonarch,itishighlyprobablethattheywereplacedoverroyalsepulchres.

Aflightoftwentynarrowstepscutintheperpendicularfaceoftheprecipice,andpartlydestroyed,soastobesomewhatdifficultanddangerous,leadstoanarrowledge,abovewhichtherockhasbeencarefullysmoothed,andisstillcoveredwithinscriptionsinthecuneiformcharacter.Hereanentrance,about7feetdeep,opensintoahall,34-1/2feetlong,bynearly21wideand12high,leadingbyfourdoorwaysintoasmanydistinctchambers.Arounditswallsarewindow-likerecesses,andbetweenthem,andoneachsideofthedoorways,areornamentalniches,withholesinthecentre,whichmayhaveheldmetallamps.Thefloorhasbeenexcavatedintwoplacesintosquaresafewinchesdeep;Icannotconjectureforwhatpurpose.

Thedoortotheleftonenteringleadsintoasmallchamber,11ft.8in.,by9ft.8in.,surroundedbysimilarwindow-likerecesses.Initisaseconddoorwayopeninguponawellorpit,filledtowithinafewfeetofthemouthwithstonesandrubbish.Therewerenomeansofascertainingitsdepthororiginalusewithoutremovingthecontents.Thethreeotherdoorsintheentrancehallleadtosquarerooms,surroundedbyniches,but

withoutotherornament.TheexcavationsaresometimescalledbytheTurks"KhorkhorMugaralari,"thecavesofKhorkhor,fromagardenofthatnamebelowthem.

Theinscriptionsonthefaceoftherockaroundtheouterentrancetothesechambersarecontainedineightparallelcolumns,includinginallabove300linesandthirteenconsecutiveparagraphs.Thelettersarelargeandadmirablycarved,andthewritingisdividedbyhorizontallines.Theserock-tabletsaretherecordsofakingwhosename,accordingtoDr.Hincks,isArghistis.Heinvokesthegodsofhisnation,andcelebratestheconquestofvariouspeoplesortribes,whosenamesstillrequiretobeidentified,butwhoprobablyinhabitedcountriestothenorthofArmenia;hedescribestheburningoftheirtemplesandpalaces,andthecarrying

awayofcaptivesandofanimmensespoilofhorses,camels,cattle,andsheep,thenumbersofeachbeinggivenwithapparentexactness.Thenameoftheregioninwhichtheseconquestswerechieflymade,seemstoreadMana.

Theremaininginscriptionsareonthenorthernfaceoftherock.Theyarefiveinnumber.Thelongestandmostimportantcontainstwenty-ninelines,andisonthesidewalltotheleftonenteringanartificialvaultedrecess.IthasbeenpartlydestroyedbyarudecrosscutbytheArmeniansacrossthetablet.Thecaveiscalledthe"KhazanaKapousi,"orthetreasuregate,andisheldtobeasacredspotbyChristiansandMussulmans.

Aninscriptionofseventeenlinesiscarvedattheentrancetoasecondartificialchamber,andontabletscutintherockarethreemore,eachofnineteenlines,wordforwordalike,butwithorthographicalvariationsintheroyalname.

Fouroftheseinscriptionsbelongtothefatheroftheking,whorecordedhisconquestsonthesouthernfaceoftherock.Hisname,accordingtoDr.Hincks,maybereadMinuas.Theymerelycontaintheroyaltitlesandinvocationstothegods.ThelonginscriptioninthevaultedrecessisofthegrandsonofMinuas,thelatestkingmentionedonthemonumentsofWan.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Itisofconsiderableinterestascontainingthenameofacountry,whichDr.HincksidentifieswithBabylon,andasenumerating,firstindetail,theamountofbootytakenfromthreedifferentcountries,andafterwardsgivingthetotalamountofthewhole.Bythisdoubleaccount,theonecheckingtheother,acluewasaffordedtothesignsrepresentingnumeralsintheAssyrianinscriptions,aswellastotheirrespectivevalues,adiscoveryforwhichweareindebtedtothesagacityofDr.Hincks.

ThePashahadkindlyplacedthe"MimarBashi,"orarchitectinchiefofthetown,anhonestArmenian,namedNikòos,undermyordersduringmyresearchesatWan.Theexcavations,however,whichweremadecametonoresultworthmentioning.

Aboutamileandahalftotheeastofthetown,nearasmallvillageinthegardensofWan,isarecessintherock15feet8incheshigh,and6feet7inchesbroad,containingalongcuneiforminscription.TheinscriptioniscalledMeherKapousi,which,accordingtothepeopleofWan,meanstheShepherd'sGate,fromatraditionthatashepherd,havingfallenasleepbeneathit,wastoldinadreamthemagicwordthatopenedthespell-boundportal.Heawokeandstraightwaytriedthetalisman.Thestonedoorsflewapart,disclosingtohiswonderingeyesavasthallfilledwithinexhaustibletreasures;butasheenteredtheyshutagainbehindhim.Hefilledwithgoldthebaginwhich,ashetendedhisflocks,hecarriedhisdailyfood.Afterrepeatingthemagicsummons,hewas

permittedtoissueintotheopenair.Buthehadlefthiscrook,andmustreturnforit.Thedoorswereoncemoreunclosedathisbidding.Hesoughttoretracehissteps,buthadforgottenthetalisman.Hisfaithfuldogwaitedoutsideuntilnightfall.Asitsmasterdidnotcomeback,itthentookupthebagofgoldandcarryingittotheshepherd'swife,ledhertothegatesofthecave.Shecouldhearthecriesofherhusband,andtheyareheardtothisday,butnonecangivehimhelp.

TheinscriptionoftheMeherKapousioriginallyconsistedofninety-fivelines,comprisingthesamerecordtwicerepeated.Onlyaboutsixtyarenowlegible.NeartheShepherd'sGatetherocksareexcavatedintoavastnumberofcaves.Insomeplaceslongflightsofstepsleadnowhere,butfinishabruptlyinthefaceoftheperpendicularprecipice;inothersthe

cliffisscarpedtoagreatheightwithoutanyapparentobject.Asingularshaft,withstairs,leadingintoacavern,iscalledZimzim.Itisdifficulttoaccountfortheuseandoriginofthesesingularexcavations;theirheightfromtheplainandtheirinaccessiblepositionalmostprecludetheideaoftheirhavingbeenquarries.

Severalslabsofblackbasalt,inscribedwithcuneiformcharacters,havebeenbuiltintotheinteriorwallsoftwoancientArmenianchurcheswithinthetownofWan.InthechurchofSt.PeterandSt.PaulIfoundpartsoffourlegends,whicharehistorical,containingarecordofthecaptureofmanycities,andoftheamountofspoilcarriedawayfromconqueredcountries.InthechurchofSurpSahakIwasabletotranscribetwoinscriptions,oneunderthealtar,theotherinthevestibulebeneaththe

levelofthefloor,whichhadtobebrokenupandremovedbeforeIcouldreachthestone.Thelongestconsistsoffortylines,theotheroftwenty-seven.Thebeginningandendingofthelinesinbotharewanting.

TheonlyinscriptionatWanthatIcouldnotcopywasthetrilingualtabletofXerxes.Itisonthemostinaccessiblepartoftherock,aboutseventyoreightyfeetabovetheplain.Nothavingaglassofsufficientpower,Iwasunabletodistinguishthecharactersfrombelow.AsithadbeenaccuratelytranscribedbySchulz,andresemblesthoseofthesamekingatPersepolisandHamadan,Ididnotthinkitnecessarytoincurany

7/31/2019 Ninevah


riskorexpenseinreachingitbymeansofropesorscaffolding.[166]

Intherocktherearenumerousexcavatedchambers,someevenexceedingindimensionsthoseIhavedescribed;but,withtheexceptionofasimpleseatorbenchofstone,abouttwoandahalffeethighononesideofthem,theyareperfectlyplainandunornamented.Theyappeartohavebeenusedastombs.Someareapproachedbyflightsofstepscutintheprecipice;othersarealtogetherinaccessibleexceptbyropesfromabove.

ItisyetdoubtfultowhatfamilyoflanguagestheWaninscriptionsmustbeassigned.SomebelieveittobeaTatardialect;Dr.Hincks,onthecontrary,isofopinionthatitisIndo-Germanic.Twooftheinscriptions,andtheearliestindate,asIhavealreadyobserved,areinpureAssyrian.

Withregardtothedateofthemonumentsthereappearstobeacluewhichmayenableustofixitwithsomedegreeofcertainty.InaninscriptionfromKhorsabad,amongstthekingsconqueredbySargononeismentionedwhosenamecorrespondswithArghistis,thefifthintheWandynasty.Supposingthetwo,therefore,tobethesame,andthereisnoreasontodoubttheirbeingso,wemayassumethatthemonarchsoftheWanrecordsreignedfromaboutthemiddleoftheeighthcenturybeforeChristtotheendoftheseventh;andtheevidenceaffordedbytheformsofthecharactersleadstothisconjecture.

Atsunrise,onthe8thAugust,theroaringofcannon,re-echoedbytheloftyrock,announcedtheendofRamazan,andthebeginningoftheperiodicalfestivitiesoftheBairam.EarlyinthemorningthePasha,glitteringwithgoldandjewels,andsurroundedbythemembersofhishousehold,theofficersofthegarrison,andthegaily-dressedchiefsoftheirregulartroops,rodeinprocessionthroughthestreetsofthetown.Asitiscustomaryhereceivedinthepalacethevisitsofthecadi,mollahs,andprincipalMussulmaninhabitantsofWan,aswellasofthebishop,clergy,andeldersoftheArmenianchurch.Thepopulation,rejoicingattheirreleasefromafastalmostintolerableinsummer,deckedthemselvesinholidaygarments,andmademerryinthehousesandhighways.Thesoundsofmusicandrevelryissuedfromthecoffee-houses

andplacesofpublicresort.Thechildrenrepairedtoswings,merry-go-rounds,andstallsofsweetmeats,whichhadbeenraisedintheopenspaceswithinthewalls.TheChristiansaddthefeasttotheirownfestivals,alreadytoonumerous,[167]and,liketheirMussulmanneighbours,payvisitsofcomplimentandceremony.Theirwomen,whoaresaidtobehandsome,butareevenmorerigidlyconcealedthantheMohammedanladies,creptthroughthestreetsintheirlongwhiteveils.

Icalledintheeveningonthebishop,andnextmorning,athisinvitation,visitedtheprincipalschools.FivehavebeenestablishedsincethefalloftheKurdishBeys,andtheenjoymentofcomparativeprotectionbytheChristianpopulation.Onlyonehadbeenopenedwithinthewalls;therestwereinthegardens,whicharethicklyinhabitedby

Armenians,andformextensivesuburbstoWan.Morethantwohundredchildrenofallageswereassembled.Theywentthroughtheirexercisesanddevotionsatthesoundofabellwithgreatorderandprecision,alternatelystandingandsquattingontheirhamsonsmallcushionsplacedinrowsacrossthehall.Anouterroomheldbasinsandtowelsforwashing,andthecloaksandshoestakenoffonentering.Bookswerescarce.Therewerenotmorethanascoreinthewholeschool.Thefirstclass,whichhadmadesomeprogress,hadafewelementaryworksonastronomyandhistory,publishedbytheArmenianpressatConstantinopleandSmyrna,butonlyonecopyofeach.Theboys,atmyrequest,sangandchantedtheirprayers,and

7/31/2019 Ninevah


repeatedtheirsimplelessons.

Suchschools,imperfectthoughtheybe,areproofsofagreatandincreasingimprovementintheChristiancommunitiesofTurkey.[168]Achangeofconsiderableimportance,andwhich,itistobehoped,mayleadtothemostbeneficialresults,isnowtakingplaceintheArmenianChurch.Itisundoubtedlytobeattributedtothejudicious,earnest,andzealousexertionsoftheAmericanmissionaries;theirestablishments,scatteredovernearlythewholeTurkishempire,haveawakenedamongsttheChristians,andprincipallyamongsttheArmenians,aspiritofinquiryandadesireforthereformofabuses,andforthecultivationoftheirminds,whichmustultimatelytendtoraisetheirpolitical,aswellastheirsocial,positioninthehumanscale.ItisscarcelyfifteenyearssincethefirstinstitutionforChristianinstructiononProtestant(independent)principleswasopenedbythoseexcellentmeninConstantinople.Byawiseselectionofyouthsfromdifferentpartsoftheempire,whofromtheircharacterandabilitiesweredeemedworthyofthechoice,theywereshortlyenabledtosendintotheprovincesthosewhocouldsowtheseedsoftruthandknowledge,withoutincurringthesuspicionsattachingtostrangers,andwithoutlaboringunderthatignoranceofthemannersandlanguagesofthoseamongstwhomtheymix,whichmustalwaysprovesoseriousanobstacletoforeignersintheirintercoursewiththenatives.Amovementofthisnaturecouldscarcelyescapepersecution.TheArmenianclergy,notunfavorabletothedarkness

andbigotrywhichhadforcenturiesdisgracedtheirChurch,andexercisinganuncontrolledpoweroveranignorantandsimplepeople,soonraisedacryagainstthe"Evangelists,"astheywerecontemptuouslycalled.Bysuchmisrepresentationsandcalumniesasarealwaysreadyathandtotheenemiesofprogressandreform,theywereabletoenlistintheirfavortheTurkishauthoritiesatthecapitalandintheprovinces.Unfortunately,foursectsalone,theRomanCatholic,theArmenian,theGreek,andtheCopt,wererecognisedbythePorteamongsttheirChristiansubjects.ThereformedArmenianChurchwasconsequentlywithoutanacknowledgedhead,andunable,tocommunicatedirectlywiththegovernment,tomakeknownitstenets,ortocomplainoftheactsofinjusticeandpersecutiontowhichitwasexposed.Manypersonsfellvictimstotheiropinions.Somewerecruellytorturedinthehouseofthe

Patriarchhimself,andotherswereimprisonedorutterlyruinedinConstantinopleandtheprovinces.ThroughtheexertionsoftheEnglishministeratConstantinople,afirmanwasobtainedfromtheSultan,placingthenewProtestantcommunityonthesamefootingastheotherChurchesoftheempire,assigningtoitahead,oragent,throughwhomitcouldapplydirectlytotheministers,andextendingtoitotherprivilegesenjoyedbytheRomanCatholicsandGreeks.Fortunatelyforthecause,manymenofirreproachablecharacter,andofundoubtedsincerityfromtheArmeniannationhavebeenassociatedwithit,anditssuccesshasnotbeenendangered,likethatofsomanyothermovementsofthesamekind,byinterested,orhastyconversions.

Theinfluenceofthisspiritofinquiry,fosteredbytheAmerican

missions,hasnotbeenaloneconfinedtothosewhohavebeencutofffromtheirowncommunity.TheArmenianclergyhavefoundittheirtrueinteresttopromotereformintheirownChurch.SchoolsinoppositiontotheAmericanestablishmentshavebeenopenedinthecapitalandinmostofthelargetownsofAsiaMinor;andelementaryandtheologicalworks,ofafarmoreliberalcharacterthananyhithertopublishedinTurkey,havebeenprintedbyArmenianprinting-pressesinConstantinopleandSmyrna,orintroducedintothecountryfromVenice.

Whilstonthissubject,andconnectedasIhavebeenwiththeNestorians,

7/31/2019 Ninevah


ImustnotomitatributeofpraisetotheadmirableestablishmentsoftheAmericanmissionsamongsttheChaldæansofOoroomiyahinPersia,undertheabledirectionoftheRev.Mr.Perkins.[169]ItwaswithmuchregretthatIwascompelledtogiveuptheplanIhadformedofvisitingthatsmallcolonyfromtheNewWorld.TheRev.Mr.Bowen,whocrossedthefrontiersfromWan,hasinatrueChristianspiritbornewitnessintheEnglishChurchtotheenlightenedandliberalspiritinwhichtheirlaborsarecarriedon.FortyorfiftyschoolshavebeenopenedinthetownofOoroomiyahandsurroundingvillages.TheabusesthathavecreptintothisprimitiveandhighlyinterestingChurcharebeingreformed,andtheignoranceofitssimpleclergygraduallydispelled.Aprinting-press,forwhichtypehasbeenpurposelycut,nowpublishesforgeneralcirculationtheScripturesandworksofeducationinthedialectandcharacterpeculiartothemountaintribes.TheEnglishlanguagehasbeenplantedintheheartofAsia,andthebenefitsofknowledgeareextendedtoaracewhich,afewyearsago,wasalmostunknownevenbynametoEurope.

TheArmenianbishopofWanwasnotwantinginintelligenceandinliberalfeeling;but,likemostofhisorder,hewasprofoundlyignorant.TheconventsofWanandoftheneighbourhood,hesaid,wereoncerichinancientmanuscripts,buttheyhadbeencarriedawaybycamel-loadssometwohundredyearsbeforebythePersians,andwerebelievedstilltobepreservedinIsfahan.WiththeexceptionofafewprintedcopiesoftheScriptures,andsomereligiousworksfortheuseofthechurches,there

arenownobooksinthecity.HereceivedwithpleasurefromMr.BowenacopyoftheNewTestamentinthevulgarArmeniantongue,remarkingthatitwouldbeagreatadvantagetothecommonpeopletohaveaversionoftheScripturesinalanguagewhichtheycouldunderstand.Hewasprobablynotawarethattheheadofhischurchhadutterlycondemneditsuse,andhadanathematisedallthosewhoreceivedit.

Mycompanionshadbeencompelled,fromillhealth,toleavetheplain,andhadtakenrefugeintheconventofYediKlissia,fromthesultryheatsoftheplain.Beforejoiningthem,IvisitedthevillageofAmikh,where,accordingtomyArmenianguide,Nikòos,aninscriptionwasengravedontherocks.Ileftthecityonthe10thofAugust;butthetimeandlaborbestowedresultedonlyindisappointment.

FromAmikhIrodeacrossthecountryinadirectlinetothemonasteryofYediKlissia,whosegardensonthesideoftheloftymountainofWurrakarevisiblefrommostpartsoftheplain.IstoppedforanhouratthechurchofKormaworbeforeascendingtotheconvent.Anagedpriest,withbeardwhiteassnow,andwearingamelon-shapedcap,andlongblackrobes,wastheguardianoftheplace.Heledmeintoanarcadesurroundingtheinnercourtofthebuilding.SeeingthatIwasaFrank,hefanciedatoncethatIwassearchingforinscriptions,andpointedtoacircularstone,thebaseofawoodencolumn,which,hesaid,hehadshownmanyyearsbeforetoatraveller,meaningSchulz.Itbearsthreeimperfectlinesofcuneiformwriting,partofaninscriptionbelongingtooneoftheWankings,whosenameDr.HincksreadMinuas.Itappearstorecordthe

foundationofatemple.Asecondinscriptiononablackstone,andseveralfragmentswiththesameroyalname,arebuiltintothewalls.

Eighthours'ridefromAmikhbroughtmetothelargeArmenianconventofYediKlissia,orthesevenchurches,builtofsubstantialstonemasonry,andinclosingaspaciouscourtyardplantedwithtrees.Ithasmoretheappearanceofacaravanseraithanthatofaplaceofreligiousretreat,andisbeautifullysituatednearthemouthofawoodedravine,half-wayupaboldmountain,whichendsinsnowypeaks.Spreadbeneathitisabluelakeandasmilingplain,andthecity,withitsboldcastellatedrock,

7/31/2019 Ninevah


anditsturretedwallshalfhidingardensandorchards.

Thechurch,asubstantialmodernedifice,standswithinthecourtyard.Itswallsarecoveredwithpicturesasprimitiveindesignasinexecution.ThereisavictoriousSt.Georgeblowingoutthebrainsofaformidabledragonwithabrightbrassblunderbuss,andsaints,attiredinthetraditionarygarmentsofEurope,performingextravagantmiracles.Theintelligenceofthegoodpriestattheheadoftheconventwasprettywellonaparwithhisillustratedchurchhistory.HewasaspecimenoftheArmenianclergyofAsiaMinor.Ashedescribedeachsubjecttome,hespokeoftheNestoriansasheretics,becausetheywereallowed,bythecanonsoftheirchurch,tomarrytheirmothersandgrandmothers;oftheProtestantsasfreemasonsoratheists;andofthegreatnationsofEuropeasthePortuguese,theInglese,theMuscovs,andtheAbbash(Abyssinians).

Ifoundtwoshortcuneiforminscriptions;oneonastoneamongsttheruinsoftheoldchurch,theotherbuiltintothewallsofthenew.TheyalsobelongtoMinuas,andmerelycontainthenameandtitlesoftheking.

CHAPTERXIX.

LEAVEWAN.--THEARMENIANPATRIARCH.--THEISLANDOFAKHTAMAR.--ANARMENIANCHURCH.--HISTORYOFTHECONVENT.--PASSINTOMUKUS.--THEDISTRICTOFMUKUS.--OFSHATTAK.--OFNOURDOOZ.--ANESTORIANVILLAGE.--ENCAMPMENTS.--MOUNTARARAT.--MARSHAMOUN.--JULAMERIK.--VALLEYOFDIZ.--PASSINTOJELU.--NESTORIANDISTRICTOFJELU.--ANANCIENTCHURCH.--THEBISHOP.--DISTRICTOFBAZ.--OFTKHOMA.--RETURNTOMOSUL.

SicknesshadovercomebothDr.SandwithandMr.Cooper.AreturntotheburningplainsofAssyriamighthaveprovedfatal,andIadvisedthemtoseek,withoutfurtherdelay,thecoolerclimateofEurope.Mr.Walpole,too,whohadbeenlongsufferingfromfever,nowdetermineduponquitting

mypartyandtakingthedirectroadtoErzeroom.

Intheafternoonofthe12thAugustIleftthegatesoftheconventofYediKlissiawithMr.HormuzdRassam.OncemoreIwasalonewithmyfaithfulfriend,andwetrodtogetherthewindingpathwaywhichleddownthemountainside.Wehadbothbeensufferingfromfever,butwestillhadstrengthtomeetitsattacks,andtobearcheerfully,nowunhindered,thedifficultiesandanxietiesofourwanderinglife.

WemadeashortjourneyofthreeandahalfhourstothepleasantvillageofArtamitorAdremit,andencampedbeneathitsfruittreesinagardennearthelake.Ourpathonthefollowingdayledthroughahillydistrict,sometimesedgingadeepbay,thenagainwindingoverarockypromontory.

WecrossedbyabridgethelargestreamwhichwehadseenatMahmoudiyah,andwhichheredischargesitselfintothelake.

Ontheshoresofthelakewefoundmanyencampmentsofgipsies;thementobedistinguishedbytheirswarthycountenances,thewomenandchildrenbytheirtasteforbegging.

WepassedthroughVastan;intheeleventhcenturytheresidenceoftheroyalArmenianfamilyofArdzrouni,butnowamerevillage.Theconventboatwasonthebeach,threemilesabovetheusuallanding-place.Four

7/31/2019 Ninevah


sturdymonkswereabouttorowitbacktotheisland.Astheyofferedtotakemewiththem,Ileftthecaravantojourneyonwardstoournight'sencampingplace,andwithMr.RassamandtheBairakdar,weweresoonglidingoverthecalmsurfaceofthelake.Notabreezerippledtheblueexpanse.Theburningraysofthesunwerestillfulluponus,andthepantingboatmenwerenearlytwohoursbeforetheyreachedtheconvent.

IntheabsenceofthePatriarchwewerereceivedbyanintelligentandcourteousmonknamedKirikor.Hishair,aswellashisbeard,hadneverknownthescissors,andfellinlongluxuriantcurlsoverhisshoulders.Itwasofjettyblack,forhewasstillayoungman,althoughhehadalreadypassedtwentyyearsofamonasticlife.Heledusthroughanarcheddoorwayintothespaciouscourtyardoftheconvent,andthenceintoanupperroomfurnishedwithcomfortabledivansforthereceptionofguests.TeawasbroughttousafterthePersianfashion,andafterwardsamoresubstantialbreakfast,inwhichthedriedfishofthelakeformedtheprincipaldish.KirikorhadvisitedJerusalemandConstantinople,hadreadmanyoftheworksissuedbytheVenetianpress,andwasamanofsuperioracquirementsforanArmenianmonkoftheorthodoxfaith.

Thechurch,whichiswithintheconventwalls,isbuiltofthesandstoneofarichdeepredcolorthathasbeenquarriedfortheturbehsofAkhlat.Likeotherreligiousedificesofthesameperiodandofthesamenation,itisintheformofacross,withasmallhexagonaltower,endingina

conicalroof,risingabovethecentre.Theinteriorissimple.Afewrudepicturesofsaintsandmiraclesadornthewalls,andagildedthroneforthePatriarchstandsnearthealtar.Theexterior,however,iselaboratelyornamentedwithfriezesandbroadbandsofsculpturedfiguresandscrollwork,theupperpartbeingalmostcoveredwithbas-reliefs,givingtothewholebuildingaverystrikingandoriginalappearance.IknowofnosimilarspecimenofArmenianarchitecture,andIregretthattimewouldnotallowmetomakedetaileddrawingsoftheedifice.

Inagrave-yardoutsidethechurchareseveralmostelaboratelycarvedtombstonesbelongingtotheearlyArmenianpatriarchs.ThatofZachariah,whodiedinthefourteenthcentury,andwhowasforoneyearpatriarchatEchmiadsinandfornineyearsatAkhtamar,isespeciallyworthyofnotice

fortherichnessandeleganceofitsornaments.

Theconventandchurcharebuiltonasmallrockyislandaboutfivemilesfromtheshore.Onanadjacentisletaretheruinedwallsofacastlepartlycoveredbytherisingwatersofthelake.Intercoursewiththemainlandiscarriedonbytheonecrankboatwhich,whenevertheweatherpermits,goesbackwardsandforwardsdailyforsuchprovisionsasarerequiredbytheinmatesofthemonastery.KhanMahmoudtooktheplacebycollectingtogetherthevesselsbelongingtoWanforthetransportofhistroops.

Lateintheafternoon,accompaniedbythemonkKirikor,Iwasrowedtothefarmandgardenbelongingtotheconvent,nearthevillageofAshayansk.A

fewmonksliveonthefarm,andtendthepropertyoftheconvent,supplyingthePatriarchwiththeproduceofthedairyandorchards.Theyreceivedusveryhospitably.KirikorrodewithmeonthefollowingmorningasfarasthelargeArmenianvillageofNarek,inwhichthereisachurchdedicatedtoSt.George,muchfrequentedinpilgrimagebytheChristiansofWanandthesurroundingcountry.Itisastrongsolidbuilding,ofthesameredsandstoneasthetombsofAkhlat.

WehadnowleftthelakeofWan,andourtrackledupadeepravine,whichgraduallybecamemorenarrowaswedrewnightothehighmountainsthat

7/31/2019 Ninevah


separatedusfromtheunexploreddistrictsofMukusandBohtan.WepassedalargeArmenianvillagenamedPagwantz,nearwhich,onthesummitofaprecipitousrock,standstheruinedcastleofKhanMahmoud,therebelchief.Hewastheeldestofsevenbrothers,allofwhomgovernedunderhimdifferentdistrictsonthebordersofthelake,andsorelyoppressedtheChristianinhabitants.Fivewerecapturedandareinbanishment.

Erelongweenteredarockybarrentract,patchedhereandtherewithfragrantAlpineflowers.AfterclimbingupasteepdeclivityofloosestoneslikethemoraineofaSwissglacier,anddraggingourhorseswithmuchdifficultyafterus,wefoundourselvesamidsteternalsnow,overwhichwetoiledfornearlytwohours,untilwereachedthecrestofthemountain,andlookeddownintothedeepvalleyofMukus.ThisisconsideredoneofthehighestpassesinKurdistan,andoneofthemostdifficultforbeastsofburden.Thedescentwasevenmorerapidandprecipitousthantheascent,andwecouldscarcelypreventourwearyhorsesfromrollingdownintotheravinewiththestoneswhichweputintomotionateverystep.AtthefootofthepassisasmallArmenianchurchcalledKhorousKlissia,or"thechurchofthecock,"becauseablackcockissaidtowarnthetravellerwhenthesnowdriftshidethemountaintracks.

ArideofeighthoursbroughtustothelargescatteredvillageofMukus,theprincipalplaceofthedistrictofthesamename.Weweremet,aswe

drewnear,bytheMudirorgovernor,anactivebustlingTurk,whohadalreadychosen,withtheusualtasteofanEastern,theprettiestspot,alawnonthebanksoftheriver,forourtents,andhadcollectedprovisionsforourselvesandourhorses.ThegoodPashaofWanhadsenttothedifferentchiefsonourway,andhadorderedpreparationtobeeverywheremadeforourreception.TheTigrisishereadeepstream,andiscrossedbyastonebridge.

ThedistrictofMukus,ancientlyMogkh,andoneoftheprovincesoftheArmeniankingdom,hadonlylatelybeenbroughtundertheauthorityoftheSultan.OfitssixtyvillagesfortyareinhabitedbyChristianArmenians.Therevenuesamountedtheyearofmyvisittolittlemorethan100,000piastres(about910_l._),ofwhichthevillageofMukuscontributed

42,000.ThegarrisonconsistedofonlyfortyregularsoldiersandfortyAlbanians,socompletelyhadtheseizureoftheirchiefsdiscouragedthewildKurdishtribeswhodwellinthemountains,andwereformerlyinopenrebellionagainstthePorte.ThisnomaderaceformstheprincipalpartoftheMussulmanpopulation,andisthemostfierceandindependentinKurdistan.

TheMudirshowedthegreatestanxietyforourwelfareduringthenight,continuallyvisitingourtentstoseethattheAlbanianshehadplacedasguardsoverourpropertydidnotsleep,asthevillageswarmedwithBohtanthieves.

TheprincipalArmeniansofMukuswiththeirpriestsspentamorningwith

me.Theyknewofnoruinsorinscriptionsinthedistrict,andIfoundthemevenmoreignorantthantheirfellow-countrymenofthedistrictsaroundWan,whosestupidityhaspassedintoaTurkishproverb.

WeleftMukusearlyintheafternoon,accompaniedbytheMudir.Thepathfollowingthecourseoftheriver,leadstoSertJezirehandtheAssyrianplains.Nextdaywecrossedahighmountainridgecoveredinsomeplaceswithsnow,separatingthedistrictofMukusfromthatofShattak.ItsnorthernandwesternslopesarethesummerpasturesoftheMiranKurds,whoseflockswerestillfeedingonthegreenlawnsandintheflowery

7/31/2019 Ninevah


glens.OntheoppositesideofthepasswefoundanencampmentofHartushiKurds,underoneOmarAgha,anobleoldchieftain,whowelcomeduswithunboundedhospitality,andsetbeforemeeveryluxurythathepossessed.Shattak,theMudirofwhichvillagehadpreparedforourreception,isasmalltown,ratherthanavillage.ItischieflyinhabitedbyArmenians,anindustriousandhardyrace,cultivatingthesidesofthemountains,onwhicharebuilttheirvillages,andweavinginconsiderablequantitiesthegay-coloredwoollenstuffssomuchesteemedbytheKurds.Innearlyeveryhousewasaloom,andtherattleoftheshuttlecamefromalmosteverydoor.Themountainsproducegalls,wool(someofwhichhasthesamesilkytextureasthatofAngora),thesmallunder-woolofthegoatcalled _teftik_(avaluablearticleofexport),andminerals.InthebazaratShattakIsawafewEnglishprints,andotherEuropeanwaresbroughtforsalefromWan.

ThepriestsandprincipalArmeniansoftheplacecametomesoonaftermyarrival,andIlearntfromthemthateffortshadalreadybeenmadetoimprovetheconditionoftheChristiancommunity,nowthattheoppressiveruleoftheKurdishhereditarychiefshadbeensucceededbythemoretolerantgovernmentoftheSultan.Aschoolhadbeenopened,chieflybythehelpofSheran,theactiveandliberalArmenianbankerofWan.

ThetownitselfiscalledbytheArmeniansTauk,bytheKurdsShokh,andwhenspokenoftogetherwiththenumerousvillagesthatsurroundit,

Shattak.Itstandsnearthejunctionoftwoconsiderablestreams,formingoneofthehead-watersoftheeasternTigris,andunitingwiththeBohtan-Su.ThelargestcomesfromthedistrictofAlbagh.Thesestreams,aswellasthatofMukus,aboundintroutofthemostdeliciousflavor.Theentiredistrictcontainsfiftyvillagesandnumerous_mezras_orhamlets.TherevenuesareaboutthesameasthoseofMukus.

WeleftShokhonthe17thAugustbyabridgecrossingtheprincipalstream.TheMudirrodewithusupasteepmountain,risingontheveryoutskirtsofthetown.AfteralonganddifficultascentwecametoabroadgreenplatformcalledTagu,thepasturesofthepeopleofShattak,andnowcoveredwiththeirtentsandflocks.Thishighgroundoverlookedthedeepvalleys,throughwhichwoundthetwostreams,andonwhosesides

weremanysmilinggardensandvillages.

Crossingahighmountainpass,onwhichsnowstilllingered,wedescendedintoadeepvalleylikethatofShattak,chieflycultivatedbyArmenians.Wecrossedasmallstream,andascendedontheoppositesidetoAshkaun,whoseinhabitantswereoutsidethevillage,nearaclearspring,washingandshearingtheirsheep.WehadnowenteredNourdooz,adistrictunderaMudirappointedbythePashaofWan,andlivingatalargevillagecalledPir-bedelan.

Ourrideonthefollowingdaywasoveruplandpasturesofgreatrichness,andthroughnarrowvalleyswateredbynumerousstreams.HereandtherewerevillagesinhabitedbyKurdsandArmenians.Wewerenowapproaching

theNestoriandistricts.Thefirstmanofthetribewemetwasanagedbuffalo-keeper,who,inanswertoaquestioninKurdish,spoketomeintheChaldeedialectofthemountains.HormuzdandmyservantsrejoicedattheprospectofleavingtheArmeniansettlements,whoseinhabitants,theydeclared,wereforstupidityworsethanKurds,andforrapacityworsethanJews.ChilghiriwasthefirstNestorianvillageonourway.Themen,withtheirhandsomewivesandhealthfulchildren,cameouttomeetus.Wedidnotstopthere,butcontinuedourjourneytoMerwanen,whichwefounddesertedbyitsinhabitantsfortheZomas,orsummerpastures.Althoughpoorandneedy,thepeopleofMerwanenwerenotlesshospitablethanother

7/31/2019 Ninevah


NestoriansIhadmetwith.Theybroughtusasthesunwentdownsmokingmessesofmilletboiledinsourmilkandmixedwithmountainherbs.

ThenextdaywecametoalargeencampmentofHartushiKurds,neartheoutletofagreenvalley,wateredbymanystreams,formingthemosteasterlysourcesoftheTigris.[170]Abd-ur-Rahman,thechief,wasabsentfromhistentscollectingtheannualsalianorrevenueofthetribe.Inhisabsencewewereveryhospitablytreated,andwerewitnessesoftheactivityandindustryoftheKurdishcommunity.

ThemountainrisingaboveuswastheboundarybetweenthepashalicsofWanandHakkiariandthewatershedoftheTigrisandZab.Ontheoppositesidethestreamsunitingtheirwatersflowedtowardsthelatterriver.ThefirstdistrictweenteredwasthatofLewen,inhabitedchieflybyNestorians.ThewholepopulationwiththeirflockshaddesertedtheirvillagesfortheZomas.WeascendedtotheencampmentofthepeopleofBilli,awretchedassemblageofdirtyhovels,halftentandhalfcabin,builtofstonesandblackcanvas.Behindittowered,amidsteternalsnows,aboldandmajesticpeak,calledKarnessa-ou-Daoleh.[171]Roundthebaseofthismountain,overloosestonesandsharprocks,andthroughravinesdeepinsnow,wedraggedourwearyhorsesnextday.TheKurdishshepherdsthatwanderthere,awildandhardyrace,havenotents,but,duringthesummermonths,liveintheopenfieldswiththeirflocks,withoutanycoveringwhatever.

Afterawearisomeandindeeddangerousride,wefoundourselvesonasnowyplatformvariegatedwithAlpineplants.Thetinystreamswhichtrickledthroughtheicewereedgedwithforget-me-notsofthetenderestblue,andwithmanywell-rememberedEuropeanflowers.Iclimbedupasolitaryrocktotakebearingsoftheprincipalpeaksaroundus.Asightasmagnificentasunexpectedawaitedme.Fartothenorth,andhighabovethedarkmountainrangeswhichspreadlikeatroubledseabeneathmyfeet,roseonesolitaryconeofunspottedwhitesparklingintheraysofthesun.Itsformcouldnotbemistaken;itwasMountArarat.MyNestorianguideknewnomoreofthisstatelymountain,tohimakindofmythiclandfarbeyondthereachofhumantravel,thanthatitwaswithintheterritoriesoftheMuscovites,andthattheChristianscalleditBashut-tama-hamda.Fromthis

pointalonewasitvisible,andwesawitnomoreduringourjourney.[172]

Wedescendedrapidlybyadifficulttrack,passinghereandthereencampmentsofKurdsandthetentsandflocksofthepeopleofJulamerik.Tothegreenpasturessucceededtheregionofcultivatedfields,andweseemedtoapproachmoresettledhabitations.Followingaprecipitouspathway,andmountedonatallandsturdymule,wespiedanagedmanwithlongrobes,blackturban,andawhitebeardwhichfellalmosttohisgirdle.WeatoncerecognisedthefeaturesofMarShamoun,thePatriarchoftheNestorians,or,asheproudlytermshimself,"oftheChaldæansoftheEast."Hehadnotknownofourcoming,andheshedtearsofjoyasheembracedus.Kochhannes,hisresidence,wasnotfardistant,andheturnedbackwithustothevillage.SinceIhadseenhimmisfortuneandgrief,

morethanage,hadworndeepfurrowsinhisbrow,andhadturnedhishairandbeardtosilverygrey.

ThegarmentsofthePatriarchwerewornandragged.Eventhemiserableallowanceof300piastres(about2_1._10_s._),whichthePortehadpromisedtopayhimmonthlyonhisreturntothemountains,waslonginarrears,andhewassupportedentirelybythecontributionsofhisfaithfulbutpoverty-strickenflock.Kochhanneswas,moreover,stillaheapofruins.AtthetimeofthemassacreMarShamounsacredlysavedhimselfbyaprecipitousflightbeforetheferociousKurdsofBederKhan

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Beyenteredthevillageandslewthosewhostilllingeredinit,andwerefromageorinfirmitiesunabletoescape.

MarShamoun,atthetimeofmyvisit,hadnolesscausetobewailthemisfortunesofhispeoplethanhispersonalsufferings.Thelatterwereperhapspartlytobeattributedtohisownwantofprudenceandforesight.Oldinfluences,whichIcouldnotbutdeeplydeplore,andtowhichIdonotinChristiancharitywishfurthertoallude[173],hadbeenatwork,andIfoundhimevenmorebitterinhisspeechagainsttheAmericanmissionariesthanagainsthisTurkishorKurdishoppressors.Hehadbeentaught,anditistoberegrettedthathisteacherswereoftheChurchofEngland,thatthosewhowereendeavoringtociviliseandinstructhisflockweresecedersfromtheorthodoxcommunityofChristians,hereticalindoctrine,rejectingallthesacramentsandordinancesofthetruefaith,andintentuponreducingtheNestorianstotheirownhopelessconditionofinfidelity.Hisfearswereworkedonbytheassurancethat,erelong,throughtheirmeansandteaching,hisspiritualaswellashistemporalauthoritywouldbeentirelydestroyed.Ifoundhimbentupondeedsofviolenceandintolerantpersecution,whichmighthaveendangered,forthesecondtime,thesafetyofthispeopleaswellashisown.Istrove,andItrustnotwithoutsuccess,tosetbeforetheoldmanhistrueinterestinregardtoeducatinghisclergyandpeople,circulatingtheScriptures,reformingabuses,&c.

TheNestoriancommunityhadgreaterwrongstocomplainofthantheirPatriarch.TheTurkishgovernment,sofarfromfulfillingthepledgesgiventotheBritishembassy,hadsentofficerstothemountainswhohadgrievouslyill-treatedandoppressedtheChristianinhabitants;andtheyhadsufferedallkindsofoutrageandoppressionwhichtherapaciousTurkscouldinflict.Therewasnotribunaltowhichtheycouldapplyforredress.AdeputationsenttothePashahadbeenill-treated,andsomeofitsmemberswerestillinprison.Therewasnooneinauthoritytopleadforthem.Theyhadevensufferedlessundertheswayoftheiroldoppressors,for,asapriesttouchinglyremarkedtome,"TheKurdstookawayourlives,buttheTurkstakeawaywherewithwehavetolive."

WeremainedadaywiththePatriarch,andthentooktheroadtoJulamerik,

threecaravanhoursdistantfromKochhannes.ThistownhasbeenmorethanoncevisitedanddescribedbyEnglishtravellers.

NearJulamerikwemetmanypoorNestoriansflying,withtheirwivesandchildren,theyknewnotwhither,fromtheoppressionoftheTurkishgovernors.

ThedirectroadbyTiyaritoMosuliscarriedalongtheriverZab,throughravinesscarcelypracticabletobeastsofburden.ItissuesintothelowervalleysnearthevillageofLizan.OnthebanksoftheZab,Ifoundtheremainsofanancientroad,cutinmanyplacesinthesolidrock.ItprobablyledfromtheAssyrianplainsintotheupperprovincesofArmenia.Therearenoinscriptionsorruinstoshowtheperiodofitsconstruction;

but,fromthegreatnessofthework,IaminclinedtoattributeittotheAssyrians.

Wepickedourwayovertheslipperypavementaslongaswecouldfindsomefootingforourselvesandourbeasts,butinmanyplaces,whereithadbeenentirelydestroyed,wewerecompelledtodragourhorsesbymainforceoverthesteeprocksandloosedetritus,whichslopedtotheveryedgeoftheriver.BeforereachingthefirstNestorianvillageinthevalleyofDiz,wehadtofordanimpetuoustorrentboilingandfoamingoversmoothrocks,andreachingaboveoursaddle-girths.Oneofthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


baggagemuleslostitsfooting.TheeddyingwatershurrieditalongandsoonhurleditintothemidstoftheZab.Theanimalhaving,atlength,relieveditselffromitsburden,swamtothebank.Unfortunatelyitboremyowntrunks;mynotesandinscriptions,thefruitsofmylaborsatWan,togetherwiththelittlepropertyIpossessed,werecarriedfarawaybythestream.Afterthemenfromthevillagehadlongsearchedinvain,thelostloadwasfoundaboutmidnight,stoppedbyarocksomemilesdowntheriver.

WepassedthenightinthemiserablevillageofRabbanAudishio.Ontheoppositesideofthevalley,buthighinthemountains,wasthevillageofSeramus.Thepathwaytoitbeingprecipitous,andinaccessibleeventomules,weturnedtoMadis,theresidenceoftheMelek,orchief,ofthedistrictofDiz.ThevillagesofDiz,likethoseoftheNestorianvalleysingeneral,standinthemidstoforchardsandcultivatedterraces.Theywerelaidwaste,andthehousesburnt,duringthefirstmassacre.DizwasthefirstChristiandistrictattackedbyBederKhanBey.Theinhabitantsmadealonganddeterminedresistance,butwereatlengthoverpoweredbynumbers.

Wecontinuedourjourneythroughadeepandnarrowvalleyhemmedinbyhighmountainsandbyperpendicularcliffs.TheMelekmetusontheroadnearthevillageofCherichereh,orKlissa.Theoldmanhadthetoocommontaletotellus,ofoppressionandwrongonthepartoftheTurks.

MelekBeniamenimploredmetohelphiminhisdifficulties;butIcoulddonomorethanofferwordsofsympathyandconsolation.LeavingtheMelektopursuehistax-gathering,werodethroughamagnificentvalley,nownarrowingintoawildgorgewalledwithprecipitouscliffs,thenopeningintoanamphitheatreofrocksencirclingavillageimbeddedintrees.ThevalleyatlengthwasabruptlyclosedbythetoweringpeaksandprecipicesoftheJelumountain.AtitsfootisthevillageofKhouresin,whereweencampedforthenight.Theinhabitantswere,forthemostpart,liketheotherpeopleofDiz,intheZomas,orsummerpastures.

NotfarfromtheZomasofDizwerethetentsofthevillagersofJelu.Theyalsohadencampedontheveryvergeofeternalsnow,butwithintheboundariesofDiz,astherewerenopasturesontheothersideofthepass

intheirowndistrict.Theywerebetterclothed,andshowedmoresignsofcomfort,ifnotofwealth,thantheirunfortunateneighbours.ManyofthemenspokealittleArabic,andevenTurkish,learntduringtheiryearlyvisitsasbasket-makerstothelowcountry.

WewerestillseparatedfromthevalleyofJelubyashoulderjuttingfromtheloftySoppa-Durekmountain.Beforereachingthisrockyridge,wehadtocrossabroadtractofdeepsnow,overwhichwehadmuchdifficultyindraggingourheavilyladenmules.Whenonthecrestofthepasswefoundourselvessurroundedonallsidesbyruggedpeaks,thehighestbeingthatknownastheTouraJelu,ofwhichwehadscarcelylostsightfromthedaywehadleftMosul.ItisprobablythehighestmountainincentralKurdistan,andcannotbeunder,ifitbenotindeedabove,15,000feet.

ThepasswecrossedbeforedescendingintothevalleyofJeluisconsideredthehighestintheNestoriancountry,andisprobablymorethan11,000feetabovethelevelofthesea.

Fromthetopofthepasswelookeddownintoadeepabyss.Thepathwaywasfearfullydangerous,andoversteepandslipperyrocks.Downthisterribledescentwehadtodragourjadedhorses,leavingourtrackmarkedinblood.Ihavehadsomeexperienceinbadmountainroads,butIdonotremembertohaveseenanymuchworsethanthatleadingintoJelu.Afternumerousaccidentsandgreatlaborweleftarockygully,andfound

7/31/2019 Ninevah


ourselvesonaslopeending,atadizzydepth,inatorrentscarcelyvisiblefromourpath.Theyieldingsoilofferedevenamoredifficultfootingforourbeaststhanthepolishedrocks.

ThewildmountainravinewasnowchangedforthesmilingvalleyofJelu.Villages,emboweredintrees,filledeverynookandshelteredplace.WedescendedtoZerinorZerayni,theprincipalsettlement,andtheresidenceoftheMelek.Toourleftweretwoothervillages,AlzanandMeedee.

Asmylargecaravandescendedthehill-side,theinhabitantsofZerintookusatonceforTurks,whoseappearanceisthesignalforageneralpanic.Thewomenhideintheinnermostrecessestosavethemselvesfrominsult;themenslinkintotheirhouses,andofferavainprotestagainsttheseizureoftheirproperty.When,atlast,wehadsatisfiedthetremblingpeopleofZerinthatwewerenotMussulmans,theyinsisteduponourbeingAmericans,ofwhomtheyhad,atthatmoment,forcertainreligiousreasons,almostasgreatadistrust.AtlengththeymadeoutthatIwastheBalios[174]ofMosul,andtheMelekarrivingatthiscrisis,wewerereceivedwithduehospitality.Ourbaggagewascarriedtotheroofofahouse,andprovisionswerebroughttouswithoutdelay.

Although,duringhisexpeditionintoTiyari,BederKhanBeyhadseizedtheflocksofthepeopleofJelu,andhadcompelledthem,moreover,topaylargecontributionsinmoneyandinkind,hehadnotbeenabletoenter

theirdeepandwell-guardedvalleys.TheNestoriansofJeluhavenotradetoaddtotheirwealth.Manyofthemen,however,wanderduringthewinterintoAsiaMinor,andevenintoSyriaandPalestine,followingthetradeofbasket-making,inwhichtheyareveryexpert;buttheirtravels,andtheirintercoursewiththerestoftheChristianworldhavenotimprovedtheirmorals,theirhabits,ortheirfaith.

ThedistrictofJeluisunderabishopwhosespiritualjurisdictionalsoextendsoverBaz.HeresidesatMarthad'Umra(thevillageofthechurch)separatedbyaboldrockyridgefromZerin.ItwasSundayaswedescendedthroughorchards,byaprecipitouspathway,tohisdwelling.Thebishop

wasaway.Hehadgonelowerdownthevalleytocelebratedivineserviceforadistantcongregation.Theinhabitantsofthevillageweregatheredroundthechurchintheirholidayattire,andreceiveduskindlyandhospitably.Fromabelfryissuedthesilverytonesofabell,whichechoedthroughthevalley,andgaveaninexpressiblecharmtothescene.Itisnotoftenthatsuchsoundsbreakuponthetraveller'searinthefarEast,toawakenathousandpleasantthoughts,andtorecalltomemorymanyahappyhour.

ThischurchissaidtobetheoldestintheNestorianmountains,andisaplain,substantial,squarebuilding,withaverysmallentrance.Tomeitwaspeculiarlyinteresting,ashavingbeentheonlyonethathadescapedtheravagesoftheKurds,andascontainingthereforeitsancient

furnitureandornaments.Boththechurchandthedarkvestibuleweresothicklyhungwithrelicsofthemostsingularandmotleydescription,thattheceilingwascompletelyconcealedbythem.Notwithstandingtheundoubtedantiquityofthechurchanditsescapefromplunder,Isearchedinvainforancientmanuscripts.

WefollowedthevalleytothevillageofNara,wherethebishopwasrestingafterhismorningduties.Ayoungmanofloftystatureandhandsomecountenance,dressedinthered-stripedloosegarmentsoftheKurds,andonlydistinguishedbyaturbanofblacksilkfromthosearound

7/31/2019 Ninevah


him,cameouttomeetus.Alessepiscopalfigurecouldscarcelybeimagined;but,althoughheseemedsomeKurdishhunterorwarrior,hegaveushisbenedictionashedrewnear.

Itwasdifficulttodeterminewhomthepoorbishopfearedmost,theTurksortheAmericanmissionaries;thefirst,hedeclared,threatenedhistemporal,theothershisspiritual,authority.IgavehimthebestadviceIwasableonbothsubjects,andurgedhimnottorejecttheofferthathadbeenmadetoinstructhispeople,butidentifyhimselfwithaprogressonwhichmightbefoundedtheonlyreasonablehopefortheregenerationofhiscreedandrace.Unfortunately,asinthecaseofMarShamoun,strangeinfluenceshadbeenatworktoprejudicethemindofthebishop.

WewerenowinthetrackIhadfollowedduringmyformervisittothemountains.[175]CrossingtheprecipitouspasstothewestofBaz,which,sincemyfirstvisit,hadbeenthesceneofoneofthebloodiestepisodesoftheNestorianmassacre,weenteredthelongnarrowravineleadingintothevalleyofTkhoma.WestoppedatGunduktha,where,fouryearsbefore,IhadtakenleaveofthegoodpriestBodaka,whohadbeenamongstthefirstvictimsofthefuryoftheKurdishinvaders.TheKasha,whonowministeredtothespiritualwantsofthepeople,theRaisofthevillage,andtheprincipalinhabitants,cametousaswestoppedinthechurchyard.Buttheywerenolongerthegailydressedandwell-armedmenwhohadwelcomedmeonmyfirstjourney.Theirgarmentsweretatteredandworn,andtheir

countenanceshaggardandwan.Thechurch,too,wasinruins;aroundwerethecharredremainsoftheburntcottages,andtheneglectedorchardsovergrownwithweeds.AbodyofTurkishtroopshadlatelyvisitedthevillage,andhaddestroyedthelittlethathadbeenrestoredsincetheKurdishinvasion.Thesametaxeshadbeencollectedthreetimes,andevenfourtimes,over.Therelationsofthosewhohadranawaytoescapefromtheseexactionshadbeencompelledtopayforthefugitives.Thechiefhadbeenthrown,withhisarmstiedbehindhisback,onaheapofburningstraw,andcompelledtodisclosewherealittlemoneythathadbeensavedbythevillagershadbeenburied.Thepriesthadbeentornfromthealtar,andbeatenbeforehiscongregation.Menshowedmethemarksoftortureontheirbody,andofironfettersroundtheirlimbs.Forthesakeofwringingafewpiastresfromthispoverty-strickenpeople,allthesedeeds

ofviolencehadbeencommittedbyofficerssentbythePortetoprotecttheChristiansubjectsoftheSultan,whomtheypretendedtohavereleasedfromthemisruleoftheKurdishchiefs.

Thesmilingvillagesdescribedintheaccountofmypreviousjourneywerenowaheapofruins.Fromfourofthemalone770personshadbeenslain.BederKhanBeyhaddrivenoff,accordingtothereturnsmadebytheMeleks,24,000sheep,300mules,and10,000headofcattle;andtheconfederatechiefshadeachtakenaproportionateshareofthepropertyoftheChristians.Noflockswereleftbywhichtheymightraisemoneywherewithtopaythetaxesnowlevieduponthem,andeventhebeastsofburden,whichcouldhavecarriedtothemarketsofmorewealthydistrictstheproduceoftheirvalley,hadbeentakenaway.[176]

WeremainedanightinTkhomatoseetheMelekswhocametousfromTkhomaGowaia.Leavingthevalley,wecrossedthehighmountaininclosingTkhomatothesouth,andpassedthroughPinianishintoChaal,adistrictinhabitedbyMussulmans,andwhichhadconsequentlynotsufferedfromtheravagesoftheKurdishchiefs.Itpresented,withitsstillflourishingvillagessurroundedbygardensandvineyards,avividcontrasttotheunfortunateChristianvalleywehadjustleft.

ArapiddescentthrougharockygorgebroughtustotheZab,overwhich

7/31/2019 Ninevah


therewerestilltheremainsofabridge,consistingoftwopolesfastenedtogetherbyosierbandsplacedacrossthestonepiers.Italmostrequiredthesteadyfootandpractisedheadofamountaineertocrosstheroaringstreambythisperilousstructure.Thehorsesandmuleswerewithmuchtroubleanddelaydrivenintotheriver,andafterbuffetingwiththewhirlpoolsandeddiesreached,almostexhausted,theoppositebank.

WenowenteredthevalleyofBerwari,and,crossingthepassofAmadiyah,tooktheroadtoMosul,throughacountryIhadalreadymorethanoncevisited.Leavingthecaravanandourjadedhorses,IhastenedonwardswithHormuzd,andtravellingthroughanightreachedMosulintheafternoonofthe30thofAugust,afteranabsenceofsevenweeks.

CHAPTERXX.

DISCOVERIESATKOUYUNJIKDURINGTHESUMMER.--DESCRIPTIONOFTHESCULPTURES.--CAPTUREOFCITIESONAGREATRIVER.--POMPOFASSYRIANKING.--ALABASTERPAVEMENT.--CONQUESTOFTRIBESINHABITINGAMARSH.--THEIRWEALTH.--CHAMBERSWITHSCULPTURESBELONGINGTOANEWKING.--DESCRIPTIONOFTHESCULPTURES.--CONQUESTOFTHEPEOPLEOFSUSIANA.--PORTRAITOFTHEKING.--HISGUARDSANDATTENDANTS.--THECITY

OFSHUSHAN.--CAPTIVEPRINCE.--MUSICIANS.--CAPTIVESPUTTOTHETORTURE.--ARTISTICCHARACTEROFTHESCULPTURES.--ANINCLINEDPASSAGE.--TWOSMALLCHAMBERS.--COLOSSALFIGURES.--MORESCULPTURES.

WhilstIhadbeenabsentinthemountainstheexcavationshadbeencontinuedatKouyunjik,notwithstandingthesummerheats.NearlyalltheArabsemployedinthespringatNimroudhadbeenremovedtotheseruins,andconsiderableprogresshadconsequentlybeenmadeinclearingtheearthfromthem.Severalchambers,discoveredbeforeIleftMosul,hadbeenemptied,andnewroomswithinterestingsculptureshadbeenexplored.

Ithasbeenseenthatthenarrowpassageleadingoutofthesouth-west

cornerofthegreathallcontainingthebas-reliefsrepresentingthemovingofthewingedbullsturnedtotheleft,andbyanothergalleryconnectedthispartoftheedificewithasecondhallofevenlargerproportionsthanthatfirstdiscovered.

Thesculpturespanellingthewesternwallwereforthemostpartstillentire.Theyrecorded,asusual,acampaignandavictory,andwereprobablybutaportionofonecontinuoussubjectcarriedroundtheentirehall.Theconqueredcountryappearedtohavebeentraversedbyagreatriver,therepresentationofwhichtookupathirdofthebas-relief.

Nextcamethesiegeandcaptureofacitystandingontheoppositebankofthesamegreatriver,andsurroundedbyaditchedgedwithloftyreeds.

TheAssyrianfootmenandcavalryhadalreadycrossedthisdike,andwerecloselypressingthebesieged,who,nolongerseekingtodefendthemselves,wereaskingforquarter.Ontheothersideoftheriver,Sennacheribinhisgorgeouswarchariot,andsurroundedbyhisguards,receivedthecaptivesandthespoil.Itisremarkablethatthiswasalmosttheonlyfigureofthekingwhichhadnotbeenwantonlymutilated,probablybythosewhooverthrewtheAssyrianempire,burneditspalaces,andlevelleditscitieswiththedust.[177]

Inthisbas-reliefthefurnitureofthehorseswasparticularlyrichand

7/31/2019 Ninevah


elaborate.Abovetheyokeroseasemicircularornament,setroundwithstars,andcontainingtheimageofadeity.ThechariotoftheAssyrianmonarch,hisretinue,andhisattire,accuratelycorrespondedwiththedescriptionsgivenbyXenophonofthoseofCyrus,whenhemarchedoutofhispalaceinprocession,andbyQuintusCurtiusofthoseofDarius,whenhewenttobattleinthemidstofhisarmy.TheGreekgeneralhadseenthepompofthePersiankings,andcoulddescribeitasaneye-witness.[178]ThedescriptionofQuintusCurtiusisnolessillustrativeoftheAssyrianmonuments."Thedoryphori(achosenbodyofspearmen)precededthechariot,oneithersideofwhichweretheeffigiesofthegodsingoldandsilver.Theyokewasinlaidwiththerarestjewels._FromitprojectedtwogoldenfiguresofNinusandBelus_,eachacubitinlength....Thekingwasdistinguishedfromallthosewhosurroundedhim,bythemagnificenceofhisrobes,andbythecidarisormitreuponhishead.Byhissidewalkedtwohundredofhisrelations.Tenthousandwarriorsbearingspears,whosestaffswereofsilverandheadsofgold,followedtheroyalchariot.Theking'sledhorses,fortyinnumber,concludedtheprocession."[179]Allowingforalittleexaggerationonthepartofthehistorian,andfortheconventionalnumbersusedbytheAssyriansculptortorepresentlargebodiesoffootmenandcavalry,wemightsupposethatQuintusCurtiushadseentheverybas-reliefsIamdescribing,socompletelydotheytallywithhisdescriptionoftheappearanceandretinueofthePersianking.

Thecaptives,bearingskinsprobablycontainingwaterandflourtonourish

themduringalongandharassingmarch,werefetteredinpairs,andurgedonwardsbytheirguards.Thewomenwerepartlyonfoot,andpartlywiththeirchildrenonmulesandincartsdrawnbyoxen.Motherswererepresentedholdingthewater-skinsfortheiryoungonestoquenchtheirthirst,whilstinsomeinstancesfathershadplacedtheirwearychildrenontheirshoulders,fortheyweremarchingduringtheheatofaMesopotamiansummer,asthesculptorhadshownbyintroducinglargeclustersofdatesonthepalms.ThusweredriventheinhabitantsofSamariathroughtheDeserttoHalahandHabor,bytheriverofGozanandthecitiesoftheMedes,[180]andwemayseeinthesebas-reliefsapictureofthehardshipsandsufferingstowhichthecaptivepeopleofIsraelwereexposedwhentheircitiesfellintothehandsoftheAssyrianking,andtheirinhabitantsweresenttocolonisethedistantprovincesof

hisempire.

Onthesouthsideofthehall,partsoffourslabsonlyhadbeenpreserved;thesculptureupontheothershadbeensocompletelydestroyed,thateventhesubjectcouldnolongerbeascertained.Thefragmentsstillremaining,graphicallydepictedthepassageoftheriverbythegreatking.Thebas-reliefsrepresentedveryaccuratelyascenethatmaybedailywitnessed,withouttheroyalwarrior,onthebanksoftheTigrisandEuphrates.

Notafragmentofinscriptionremainedtoidentifythecountryrepresentedinthebas-reliefsIhavejustdescribed.Fromthesizeoftheriver,farexceedingthatofanyotherseeninthesculpturesofKouyunjik,Iam

inclinedtobelievethatitmusthavebeenthecombinedwatersoftheEuphratesandTigris,nowknownastheShat-el-Arab.

Inthesouthsideofthehallacentreportalflankedbywingedbulls,andtwosmallentrances,formedbygiganticfigures,openedintoalongchamber,whosesculpturedwallshadbeenburnttolime.Tojudgefromthefragmentsthatremainedofthisseriesofsculptures,themostskilfulartistofthedaymusthavebeenemployedinitsexecution.Atbothendsofthechamber,doors,guardedbycolossalfigures,ledintosmallerapartments,inwhichthebas-reliefshadbeenalmostentirelydestroyed.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Returningtothegreathallwefoundanentranceformedbycolossalfiguresleadingintoalongnarrowchamber,about70feetby12,whosewallshadpartlyescapedthegeneralwreck.Itappearedtobetheremainsofanentranceintothepalace,likethatonthewesternface,oragalleryleadingtotheouterterrace,whichprobablysurroundedthebuilding.Onitsalabasterpanelsweresculpturedtheconquestofsomeofthosetribeswhichinhabited,fromtheremotestperiod,thevastmarshesformedbytheEuphratesandTigrisinChaldæaBabylonia.

Althoughthepeoplerepresentedinthesebas-reliefsdweltintheswampydistrictsofChaldæa,unless,indeed,theyhadonlytakenrefugeinthemtoescapethevengeanceoftheAssyrianking,theyappeartohavebeenasrich,ifnotricher,thananyothersconqueredbySennacherib.Withtheexceptionofthreeslabsandpartofafourth,containingthebattleinthemarsh,theentirewallsofthechamberweresculpturedwiththecaptivesandspoilbroughtbythevictorioustroopstotheirking.UnfortunatelytheimageofSennacheribhimselfinhischariot,which,tojudgefromafragmentortwofoundintherubbish,musthaveexceededallothersinthepalace,bothinsizeandinthefinishandrichnessofthedetails,hadbeenentirelydestroyed.

Returningtothegreathall,fromwhichthisgalleryled,Ifoundonitswesternsidethreeotherentrances,correspondingwiththoseonthe

southern,thecentreformedbyapairofwingedbullsinafossiliferouslimestone.Theyledintoachamber58feetby34,panelledwithunsculpturedslabsofthesamematerialasthecolossiattheprincipalportal.Threesimilardoorwaysopenedintoaparallelchamberofthesamelength,thoughrathernarrower.Itswallshadbeenornamentedwithcarvedalabasterslabs,ofwhichafewfragmentsremained.

Threedoorwaysonthewesternsideofthischamber,similartothoseontheeastern,ledintoasmanydistinctrooms,unconnectedwitheachother.Therewerethusthreemagnificentportals,onebehindtheother,eachformedbywingedbullsfacingthesameway,andalllookingtowardsthegreathall;thelargestcolossi,thoseinfront,beingabove18feethigh,andthesmallest,thoseleadingintotheinnerchamber,about12.Itwould

bedifficulttoconceiveanyinteriorarchitecturalarrangementmoreimposingthanthistriplegroupofgiganticforms,asseeninperspectivebythosewhostoodinthecentreofthehall,dimlylightedfromabove,andharmoniouslycoloredoroverlaid,likethecherubimsinthetempleofSolomon,withgold.

Attheupperorsouthernendsofthetwoparallelchambersjustdescribed,wereentrancesopeningintoaroom82feetby24,whosewallswereofthesameunsculpturedlimestone.Fromitaportalformedbywingedlionsinthesamematerial,ledintoanapartment76feetby26,standingontheedgeofthemound,andconsequentlyoneofthelastonthissideofthepalace.Onlysixslabs,neitherofthementire,remainedagainstitswalls;theresthadbeenpurposelydestroyedandthefragmentsusedfor

thefoundationsofabuildingraisedovertheAssyrianruins.Theywerecoveredfromtoptobottomwithsmallfigures,mostelaboratelycarved,anddesignedwithgreatspirit.Althoughbearingageneralresemblancetothebas-reliefsofKouyunjik,therewassufficientinthestyleofartandinthedetails,toshowthattheywerenotofexactlythesameperiod.Fortunatelyseveralepigraphsstillremainedovertheprincipalgroups,andenableustodeterminetowhatmonarchthesculpturesbelong,andtoidentifytheeventsandincidentstheyportray.

Thethreeslabstotherightofthewingedlionsonentering,were

7/31/2019 Ninevah


occupiedbyahighlycuriousrepresentationofabattle.Thesubjectwasincomplete,andcouldnotberestored;andfromthenumberoffiguresintroduced,andthecomplicatednatureoftheaction,itisdifficulttodescribetheseimportantbas-reliefsintelligibly.Aboveoneofthegroupsoffigureswasanepigraph,unfortunatelymuchmutilated,whichrecordedtheslaughterofaking,whosenamewas(?Tiranish),andwho,welearnfromotherinscriptionsonthesamesculptures,reignedoverElam,orSusiana.Thelinesbeingincomplete,themeaningofthewholeinscriptionisnotquiteclear.

BehindthecartwiththeAssyrianwarriors,wasthetentoftheregistrar,towhichhadbeenledacaptivechiefandhistwoattendants.Withinwerecollectedaheapofhumanheads,whilstwarriorswerebringingmoreofthesebloodytrophiestotheappointedscribes.Severalofthecaptiveswereapparentlyabouttoundergosomedreadfultorture;withtheirhandsmanacledinironfetters,theykneltoveranobjectwhichmightbeachafing-dishwithhotcoalsoravesseltoreceivetheirblood.Oneofthetorturersheldhisvictimbyacollarroundhisneck;whilstasecond,seizingtheunfortunateprisonerbythehair,wasabouttostrikehimwithahiron-headedmace.

TheepigraphsdeclarethatthewarrecordedbythesesculptureswasundertakenbyanAssyrianking,whoseimagewasrepresentedonaslabnotyetdescribed,againstthepeopleofElamorSusiana.Itisof

considerableimportancethustoidentifytheconqueredpeople,andtobeabletoascertainthecostume,thearms,andthemodeofwarfareofanationwellknowninancienthistory.

Amongstthecaptivesweremenclothedinfringedrobesandashortunder-tunic:thesewereprobablythelordsoftheland.Thewomenworetheirhairincurls,fallingontheirshoulders,andboundabovethetemplesbyabandorfillet.Somehadonelongringletoneachsideoftheface.Theirchildrenwereeithernakedorclothedinsimpleshirts.

TheAssyriantroopsweredividedintocavalryandfoot.Thehorsemencarriedthebowandspear,andworecoatsofmail,highgreaves,andthepointedhelmet,thatcharacteristicpartoftheAssyrianmilitarycostume

fromtheearliestperiod.Theirhorseswerecoveredwithclothes,andeven,itwouldseem,withakindofleatherarmour,reachingfromtheheadtothetail,toprotectthemfromthearrowsoftheenemy.[181]Thecostumesofthefootmen,asinthebas-reliefsofSennacherib,variedaccordingtotheirarms.Thearchers,probablyauxiliariesfromdifferenttribesinalliancewiththeAssyrians,weredressedinveryshorttunicsscarcelycoveringthethigh.Abroadbelt,withthefringedornamentpeculiartothelaterAssyrianperiod,encircledtheirwaist,andovertheirshoulderstheyworeacrossbelt,ofchequeredcloth,resemblingaScottishplaid,tosupportthequiver.Theirhair,confinedbyaplainfillet,wasrolledupbehindinonelargecurl.Allthespearmenhadthepointedhelmet;butsomeworecoatsofmailandmetalgreaves,andothersasimpletunic,withoutanycoveringtotheirlegs.Theirshields

protectednearlythewholeperson,andwereroundedatthetopandstraightatthebottom.Someappeartohavebeenfacedwithsmallsquarepiecesofleather,otherstohavebeenmadeentirelyofmetal,withembossededges.Forthefirsttimeweseeinthesebas-reliefs,theAssyriansusingthebattle-axeandthemaceinbattle.

Ontheoppositesideofthelion-entrancewerealsothreeslabs,butbetterpreservedthanthoseIhavejustdescribed.Theyformedpartofthesamesubject,whichhadevidentlybeencarriedroundthefourwallsofthechamber.TheyrepresentedthetriumphoftheAssyrianking,and,likethe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


battlescenes,weredividedbyhorizontallinesintoseveralbandsorfriezes.Themonarchstoodinhischariot,surroundedbyhisbody-guard.Unfortunatelyhisface,withthoseofthecharioteerandtheeunuchbearingtheparasol,hadbeenpurposelydefaced,likethatofSennacheribonhismonuments,probablywhentheunitedarmiesoftheMedesandBabyloniansdestroyedthepalace.Theroyalrobeswereprofuselyadornedwithrosettesandfringes.

Infrontofthechariotweretwowarriorsorguardsinembroideredrobesandgreaves.Theirlonghairwasboundbyafillet,whosetasselledendsfellloosebehind.Theywereprecededbytworemarkablefigures,botheunuchs,andprobablyintendedforportraitsofsomewell-knownofficersoftheroyalhousehold.Onewasoldandcorpulent;hisforeheadwashighandample;hisnosecurvedandsmall,andhischinroundanddouble.Thewrinklesofthebrow,theshaggyeyebrows,andthebloatedcheeks,withthestubblebeardpeculiartobeingsofhisclass,wereveryfaithfullyrepresented.Hisshorthairwastiedwithafillet.Hiscompanionwasyounger,andhadnotthesamemarkedfeatures.Hecarriedbeforehimasquareobjectresemblingaclosedboxorbook,perhapsaclaytabletcontainingsomedecreeorregister,suchaswerediscoveredintheruins.Bothworelongplainshirts,androundtheirwaistsasimplecord,inwhichwasfixedawhip,probablyasignoftheiroffice.

Abovethisremarkablegroupwasaninscriptionineightlinesfortunately

almostentire.Fromitwelearnthenameoftheking,whosedeedswerethusrecorded.HewasthesonofEssarhaddon,andthegrandsonofSennacherib,andtheconquerorofSusiana.HewastheAssordanesofthechronologicaltables,andhisnamebeginswiththemonogramfortheAssyriandeity,Asshur.

Thesebas-reliefsrecordhisconquestofthecountryof(Nuvaki?),anamebywhichSusianaorElymaiswasancientlyknown;aswealsofindfromtheinscriptionsatKhorsabad,aswellasfromthoseofBisutun.

Itishighlyprobablethatwehave,inthebas-relief,arepresentationofthecityofSusaorShusan.Itspositionbetweentworiverswellagreeswiththatofexistingruinsgenerallybelievedtomarkitssite.The

smallerstreamwouldbetheShapour,andthelargertheEuloeusorriverofDizful.Thecitywassurroundedbyawall,withequidistanttowersandgateways.Thehouseswereflatroofed,andsomehadonetowerorupperchamber,andotherstwo.Theyhadnowindows,andtheirdoorsweresquare.Thus,ingeneralform,andprobablyintheinteriorarrangements,theycloselyresembledthecommondwellingsoftheEgyptians,ofwhichaveryinterestingmodelisnowintheBritishMuseum.[182]NorweretheyunlikethemeanerhousesofthemoderntownofShushter,therepresentativeofancientSusa.

Theadjoiningslabwasdividedintoeightbandsorfriezes,byparallellines,andthenextslabintoseven.OnbothwererepresentedtheAssyrianarmyreturningfromitsvictoriouscampaign,andbringingtothe

kingthecaptivesandthespoil.Theprisoners,whowereprobablyconsideredratherrebelstohisauthoritythanenemies,werebeingcruellytorturedinhispresence.Theprincipalgroupwasthatoftheeunuchgeneral,orTartan,leadingachieforprinceoftheconqueredpeople.Abovehimwasaninscriptionunfortunatelymuchmutilated.ItappearstohavedeclaredthathewasoneofthesonsorchiefsoftheSusianianmonarch,defeatedandslaininbattlenearthedistrictofMadaktu(thenameoverthecityontheadjoiningslab),andnearthecityofShushan;andthattheAssyriankinghadplacedoneofhisowngeneralsontheconqueredthrone.[183]

7/31/2019 Ninevah


BeforethecaptiveprinceweregatheredanumberoftheSusianians,probablythesubjectsoftheslaughteredking,whohadcometosurrendertotheAssyriangeneral,fortheystillcarriedtheirarms,andwerenotledbythevictoriouswarriors.Someofthemknelt,somebowedtotheground,andothers,stretchedatfulllength,rubbedtheirheadsinthedust,allsignsofgriefandsubmissionstillpractisedintheEast.TheAssyriangeneralswerewelcomedbybandsofmenandwomen,dancing,singing,andplayingoninstrumentsofmusic.Thus,"whenDavidwasreturnedfromtheslaughterofthePhilistines,thewomencameoutofallthecitiesofIsrael,singinganddancingtomeetSaul,withtabrets,withjoy,andwithinstrumentsofmusic."[184]WefindfromvariouspassagesintheScriptures,thattheinstrumentsofmusicchieflyusedonsuchtriumphantoccasionsweretheharp,onewithtenstrings(renderedviolorlyreinsomeversions,butprobablyakindofdulcimer),thetaborandthepipe[185],preciselythoserepresentedinthebas-reliefs.

ThewholescenewascuriouslyillustrativeofmodernEasterncustoms.Themusiciansportrayedinthebas-reliefswereprobablyofthatclassofpublicperformerswhoappearinTurkeyandEgyptatmarriages,andonotheroccasionsofrejoicing.

AbovetheAssyrianwarriorswerethecaptivesandtheirtorturers.TheformerdifferedincostumefromtheSusianianfighting-menrepresentedin

theadjoiningbas-reliefs.Theyweredistinguishedbythesmallnessoftheirstature,andbyaverymarkedJewishcountenance--asharp,hookednose,shortbushybeard,andlongnarroweyes.CouldtheyhavebelongedtotheHebrewtribeswhichwerecarriedawayfromSamariaandJerusalem,andplacedbyShalmaneser,Sennacherib,orEssarhaddon,ascolonistsinthedistantregionsofElam,andwho,havingbecomepowerfulintheirnewsettlements,hadrevoltedagainsttheirAssyrianrulers,andwereonceagainsubdued?Someinironfetterswerebeingledbeforetheking,forjudgmentorpardon.Othershadbeencondemnedtothetorture,andwerealreadyinthehandsoftheexecutioners.Twowerestretchednakedatfulllengthontheground,andwhilsttheirlimbswereheldapartbypegsandcordstheywerebeingflayedalive.Beneaththemwereotherunfortunatevictims,undergoingabominablepunishments.Thebrainsofonewere

apparentlybeingbeatenoutwithanironmace,whilstanofficerheldhimbythebeard.Atorturerwaswrenchingthetongueoutofthemouthofasecondwretchwhohadbeenpinionedtotheground.Thebleedingheadsoftheslainweretiedroundthenecksoftheliving,whoseemedreservedforstillmorebarbaroustortures.

Abovethesegroupswasashortepigraph,commencingbytwodeterminativesignsofpropernames,eachfollowedbyablankspace,whichthesculptorprobablylefttobefilledupwiththenamesoftheprincipalvictims.Itthendeclaresthatthesemen,havingspokenblasphemies(?)againstAsshur,thegreatgodoftheAssyrians,theirtongueshadbeenpulledout(_Lishaneshunueshlup_,bothwordsbeingalmostpurelyHebrew),andthattheyhadafterwardsbeenputtodeath(ortortured).Theinscription,

therefore,correspondswiththesculpturebeneath.Itisbysuchconfirmatoryevidencethattheaccuracyofthetranslationsofthecuneiformcharactersmaybetested.

Thesehighlyinterestingbas-reliefshadbeenexposed,likealltheothersculpturesofKouyunjik,tothefirewhichhaddestroyedthepalace.Althougheachslabwascrackedintomanypieces,thesculpturesthemselveshadsufferedlessinjurythananyothersdiscoveredinthesameruins,thehardfossiliferouslimestonenothavingbecomecalcinedbytheheatlikethealabaster.Theoutlinewasstillsharp,andthedetailsperfectly

7/31/2019 Ninevah


preserved.Considerablecarewasrequiredtomovethem.Butthepieceswereatlengthpacked,andsincetheirarrivalinEnglandhavebeenadmirablyrestored.

Somebas-reliefssculpturedbyorderofthesonandsuccessorofEssarhaddon,havebeendiscoveredatKouyunjikandNebbiYunus.Thesebas-reliefsprovethatmanychangeshadtakenplaceintheartsanddressofthepeopleofAssyriabetweenthereignofSennacheribandthatofhisgrandson.Thelatersculpturesareprincipallydistinguishedbytheirminutefinish,thesharpnessoftheoutline,andtheverycorrectdelineationoftheanimals,andespeciallyofthehorses.WenowapproachtheperiodofthefalloftheAssyrianempireandoftheriseofthekingdomsofBabylonandPersia.TheartspassedfromAssyriatothesisternationsandtoIonia.Thereismuchinthebas-reliefsIhavejustdescribedtoremindusoftheearlyworksoftheGreeksimmediatelyafterthePersianwar,andtoillustratearemarkoftheillustriousNiebuhr,that"acriticalhistoryofGreekartwouldshowhowlatetheGreekscommencedtopractisethearts.AfterthePersianwaranewworldopensatonce,andfromthattimetheyadvancedwithgreatstrides.ButeverythingthatwasproducedbeforethePersianwar--afewofthoseworksarestillextant--was,ifwejudgeofitwithoutprejudice,altogetherbarbarous."[186]

Thechambercontainingthesesculptureshadanentranceopeninguponthe

edgeofthemound.Ofthisdoorwaythereonlyremained,oneachside,ablockofplainlimestone,whichmay,however,havebeenthebaseofasphinxorotherfigure.Theouterwallstowhichitledhadbeenpanelledwiththeusualalabasterslabs,withbas-reliefsofacampaigninacountryalreadyrepresentedinanotherpartofthepalace,anddistinguishedbythesamedeepvalleywateredbyariver,thevineyardsandwoodedmountains.OveroneofthecastlescapturedanddestroyedbytheAssyrianswaswritten,"Sennacherib,KingofAssyria.ThecityofBit-KubitalmiItook,thespoilIcarriedaway,(thecity)Iburned."

Whetherthesewallsbelongedtoachamberorformedpartofthesouthernfaceofthepalacecouldnotnowbedetermined,astheywereontheverybrinkoftheplatform.Atrightanglestothem,tothewest,apairof

wingedbullsopeneduponanotherwall,ofwhichtherewerescarcelyanyremains,andmidwaybetweenthetwoentranceswasadeepdoorway,flankedonbothsidesbyfourcolossalmythicfigures,amongstwhichwerethefishgodandthedeitywiththelion'sheadandeagle'sfeet.Itledtoaninclinedorascendingpassage,ninefeetwideinthenarrowestpartandteninthebroadest,andforty-fourfeetinlengthtowhereitturnedatrightanglestotheleft.Itwaspavedwithhardlimeorplasteraboutaninchandahalfthick.Thewallswerebuiltofthefinestsundriedbricks,admirablyfittedtogether,andstillperfectlypreserved.

Thisinclinedwayprobablyledtotheupperchambersofthepalace,ortothegallerieswhichmayhavebeencarriedroundtheprincipalchambersandhalls.

Ihaveonlytodescribetwomoreroomsdiscoveredinthispartoftheruinsduringthesummer.TheyopenedintothechamberparallelwiththatcontainingthesculpturedrecordsofthesonofEssarhaddon.Theentrancestobothwereformedbytwopairsofcolossalfigures,eachpairconsistingofamanwearingthehornedcapsurmountedbyafleur-de-lis,andalion-headedandeagle-footedhumanfigureraisingadaggerinonehand,andholdingamaceintheother.Thesesculptureswereremarkablefortheboldnessofthereliefandtheirhighfinish.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Thebas-reliefsonthewallsofthetwochambersrecordedthesamecampaignagainstanationdwellingamidstawoodedandmountainouscountry,andinstronglyfortifiedcities,whichtheAssyrianstookbyassault,usingbatteringramstomakebreachesinthewallsandscalingladderstomounttotheassault.Thebesiegeddefendedthemselveswitharrowsandstones,buttheirstrongholdswerecaptured,andavastamountofspoilandcaptivesfellintothehandsoftheconquerors.Themenhadshort,bushyhairandbeards,andworeaninnergarmentreachingtotheknee,anoutercloakofskinsorfur,andgaiterslacedinfront.Therobesofthewomenwereshort;theirhairhunglowdowntheirbacks,andwasthengatheredupintoonelargecurl.

SuchwerethediscoveriesmadeatKouyunjikduringthesummer.AtNimroudtheexcavationshadbeenalmostsuspended.Ihavealreadydescribedthosepartsofthehighmoundortower,andoftheadjoiningsmalltempleswhichwereexploredbythefewworkmenwhostillremainedamongsttheruins,rathertoretainpossessionoftheplacethantocarryonextensiveoperations.

IwasengageduntilthemiddleofOctoberinmovingandpackingbas-reliefsfromKouyunjik;ataskofconsiderabletrouble,anddemandingmuchtimeandlabor,astheslabs,splitintoathousandfragmentsbythefire,hadtobetakencompletelytopieces,andthenarrangedandnumbered,withaviewtotheirfuturerestoration.Nearlyahundredcases

containingtheseremainswereatlengthdraggedtotheriverside,towaittheraftsbywhichtheyweretobeforwardedtoBusrah,whereavesselwasshortlyexpectedtotransportthemtoEngland.

CHAPTERXXI.

PREPARATIONSFORLEAVINGNINEVEH.--DEPARTUREFORBABYLON.--DESCENTOFTHERIVER.--TEKRIT.--THESTATEOFTHERIVERSOFMESOPOTAMIA.--COMMERCEUPONTHEM.--TURKISHROADS.--THEPLAINOFDURA.--THENAHARWAN.--SAMARRAH.--KADESIA.--PALMGROVES.--KATHIMAIN.--APPROACHTO

BAGHDAD.--THECITY.--ARRIVAL.--DR.ROSS.--ABRITISHSTEAMER.--MODERNBAGHDAD.--TELMOHAMMED.--DEPARTUREFORBABYLON.--APERSIANPRINCE.--ABDEPASHA'SCAMP.--EASTERNFALCONRY.--HAWKINGTHEGAZELLE.--APPROACHTOBABYLON.--THERUINS.--ARRIVALATHILLAH.

Thewinterwasnowdrawingnear,andtheseasonwasfavorableforexaminingtheremainsofancientcitiesinBabylonia.TheTrusteesoftheBritishMuseumhadpartlysanctionedaplansubmittedtothemforexcavationsamongstruins,nolessimportantandvast,andofnolessbiblicalandhistoricalinterestthanthoseofNineveh.Ihadincluded,inmyoriginalscheme,manyremarkablesitesbothinChaldæaandSusiana,but,asIhavebeforeobserved,mylimitedmeansdidnotpermitmeto

carryoutmyplantoitsfullestextent.AstheoperationsatNimroudwerenow,however,suspended,IdeterminedtoemployfewermenatKouyunjik,andtodevotemyself,duringthecoldweather,toresearchesamongstthegreatmoundsofSouthernMesopotamia.

MyJebourswerenowsoskilledandexperiencedinexcavating,thatIdeemeditmoreeconomicaltotakeapartyofthemwithmethantoengagenewworkmenonthevarioussitesthatImightvisit.Atthesametime,havingthusmyownmen,Ishouldbeindependentofthepeopleofthecountry,whomighteitherbeunwillingtolabor,ormightrequire

7/31/2019 Ninevah


exorbitantpay.IaccordinglyselectedaboutthirtyofthebestArabsemployedintheexcavationsatNineveh,toaccompanymeontheraftswhichborethesculptures.

HavingagainentrustedTomaShismanwiththesuperintendenceoftheexcavations,andgivenhimallnecessarydirectionsforcarryingonthework,IquittedMosulonthe18thofOctober,accompaniedbyHormuzdandMr.Romaine,anEnglishtraveller,onhiswaytoIndia.TherewerecasesenoughcontainingsculpturesfromKouyunjiktoloadaraftofconsiderablesize.Hormuzd,whohadmetwithasevereaccident,wasplacedinabedonasmall_kellek_;Mr.Romaineoccupiedwithmeanotherofthesamesize.Theservantsandcookingapparatuswereonthelargeraft,andweallkeptclosecompanyforconvenienceandmutualprotection.

TherewerestillsomearrangementsconnectedwiththeexcavationstobemadeatNimroud,anditwasnotuntilthe20ththatwefairlybeganourvoyage.ThenavigationoftheriverasfarasKalahSherghatwassoinsecure,thatIdeemeditprudent,inordertoavoidacollisionwiththeArabs,toengageaBedouinchieftoaccompanyus.WeengagedoneAwaythe,aSheikhoftheFedaghaShammar,togiveushisprotectionuntilwehadpassedthedanger.Placingoneofhissonsonhismare,andorderinghimtofollowusalongthebanksoftheriver,hesteppeduponmyraft,wherehespenthistimeingivingusaccountsofwarsandghazous,smokinghispipeandpoundingcoffee.

WereachedTekritinthreedayswithoutaccidentoradventure.Bedouintentsandmovingswarmsofmenandanimalswereoccasionallyseenontheriverbanks,butundertheprotectionofourSheikhwemetwithnohindrance.TekritisalmosttheonlypermanentsettlementofanyimportancebetweenMosulandBaghdad.Itisnowasmalltown,butwasonceaplaceofsomesizeandstrength.TekritischieflyfamousasthebirthplaceofthecelebratedSaleh-ed-din,betterknowntotheEnglishreaderasSaladin,theheroofthecrusades,andthemagnanimousenemyofourRichardCoeur-de-Lion.Hisfather,Ayub,achiefofaKurdishtribeofRahwanduz,wasgovernorofitscastlefortheSeljukianmonarchsofPersia.MosulitselfsustainedasiegefromSaladin,whowasrepulsedbyitsAtabeg,orhereditaryprince.MilitaryexpeditionsintotheSinjarand

otherpartsofMesopotamiawereamongsttheexploitsofthisgreatMussulmanhero.

TekritisnowinhabitedbyafewArabs,whocarryon,asraftsmen,thetrafficoftheriverbetweenMosulandBaghdad.

NothingmarksmorecompletelytheresultsoftheunjustandinjurioussystempursuedbythePorteinitsArabianterritoriesthanthealmostentireabsenceofpermanentsettlementsandofcommercialintercourseonthebanksoftheEuphratesandTigris.TwoofthefinestriversofAsia,reachingintotheveryheartoftheTurkishdominions,spreadingfertilitythroughdistrictsalmostunequalledfortherichnessoftheirsoilandforthevariednatureoftheirproduce,andnavigableonefornearly850miles

fromthesea,theotherfornearly600miles,areofnoaccountwhatevertotheStateuponwhichnaturehasconferredsucheminentadvantages.ThedepredationsoftheArabs,uncheckedbythegovernment,andtherapacityanddishonestyoftheTurkishauthorities,wholevyillegalandexorbitanttaxesuponeverymodeoftransitwhetherbylandorwater,andwhomakemonopoliesofallarticlesofproduceandofmerchandise,effectuallychecktheeffortsofthenativesthemselves,bynomeansdeficientincommercialactivityandenterprise,toengageintrade,ortonavigatetherivers.EventheEuropeanmerchant,withprivilegessecuredbytreaties,andprotectionaffordedbyconsulsanddiplomaticagency,isscarcelyable

7/31/2019 Ninevah


tostruggleagainsttheinsecurityofthecountrythroughwhichhemustconveyhisgoods,andagainsttheblack-mailexactedbyArabSheikhs,secretlyencouragedorabettedbytheTurkishgovernors.Fromthemostwantonanddisgracefulneglect,theTigrisandEuphrates,inthelowerpartoftheircourse,arebreakingfromtheirnaturalbeds,formingvastmarshes,turningfertiledistrictsintoawilderness,andbecomingunnavigabletovesselsofeventhesmallestburden.

Theveryhigh-wayfromMosul,and,consequently,fromthecapital,toBaghdad,inordertoavoidtherestlessBedouin,iscarriedalongthefootoftheKurdishhills,leavingtheriver,addingmanydaystothejourney,andexposingcaravanstolongdelaysfromswollenstreams.Eventhisroadisnolongersecure,fortheutternegligenceanddishonestythathaveoflatemarkedtheconductoftheTurkishauthoritiesinSouthernTurkeyhaveledtotheinterruptionofthischannelofcommerce.

ThedirectroadtoBaghdadfromthenorthwouldbeacrossMesopotamia,andalongthebanksoftheTigris,throughacountryuninterruptedbyasinglestreamofanysize,orbyasinglehill.WhilstcaravansarenowfrequentlynearlysixweeksontheirwayfromMosultoBaghdad,theywouldscarcelybeasmanydaysbytheDesert.Afewmilitarypostsontheriver,apropersystemofpolice,encouragementtothecultivatingtribestosettleinvillages,andtheconstructionofacommoncart-road,wouldsoonleadtoperfectsecurityandtotheestablishmentofconsiderabletrade.

ThisisnottheplacetodiscusstherelativemeritsofthevariousroutestoIndia,butitmaybeobservedthatthetimeisprobablynotfardistant,whenamoredirectandspeedycommunicationthanhithertoexistswiththatempire,willbesoughtbythebanksoftheTigrisandEuphrates,whererailwaysandsteamnavigationcanbothbeadvantageouslybroughtintooperation.ThenavigationofthePersianGulfis,atalltimes,openandsafe;andaglanceatthemapwillshowthatalinethroughtheMediterranean,theportofSuedia,Aleppo,Mosul,Baghdad,Busrah,andtheIndianOceantoBombayisasdirectascanwellbedesired.ThismustbethesecondIndianroutebeforeextendedcivilisationandChristianitycanaffordareasonablebasisforthosegiganticschemeswhichwouldcarryalineofironthroughcountriesalmostunknown,andscarcelyyetvisitedbyasolitaryEuropeantraveller.

BetweenTekritandBaghdadthereismuchtointerestthetravellerwhoforthefirsttimefloatsdownariverwindingthroughthegreatalluvialplainsofChaldæa.Thecountryhas,however,beensofrequentlydescribed[187],thatIwillnotdetainthereaderwithmorethanageneralsketchofit.Ourraftsglidednoiselesslyonwards,withoutfurrowingwitharipplethequietsurfaceofthestream.LeavingTekrit,wefirstpassedasmallwhitewashedMussulmantomb,risingontheleftoreasternbank,inaplainthatstillbearsthenameofDura.Itwashere,assomebelieve,that"Nebuchadnezzarthekingmadeanimageofgold,whoseheightwasthreescorecubitsandbreadthsixcubits,andcalledtogethertheprinces,thegovernors,andthecaptains,thejudges,thetreasurers,thecounsellors,thesheriffs,andalltherulersoftheprovincestoits

dedication,andthatcertainJewswouldnotservehisgods,norfalldownandworshipthegoldenimagethathehadsetup."[188]Itisnowawilderness,withhereendthereashapelessmound,theremainsofsomeancienthabitation.Theplaceisnototherwiseunknowntohistory,foritwasherethat,afterthedeathoftheEmperorJulian,hissuccessorJovianconcludedadisgracefulpeacewiththePersiankingSapores(Shapour),andsavedtheRomanarmybyyieldingtotheenemythefivegreatprovincestotheeastoftheTigris.Itwashere,too,thathecrossedtheTigris,abroadanddeepstream,andcommencedhisdisastrousretreatthroughMesopotamia.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Notfarbelow,andonthesamesideoftheriver,thegreatcanaloftheNaharwan,thewonderofArabgeographers,robbedtheTigrisofalargeportionofitswaters.

BelowtheNaharwan,ruins,walls,anddwellings,builtchieflyoflargepebbles,unitedbyastrongcement,amodeofconstructionpeculiartotheSassanianandearlyArabperiods,standonthealluvialcliffs.TheyarecalledEski,orold,Baghdad;theArabs,asusual,assigningamoreancientsitetothemoderncity.

Atower,abouttwohundredfeethigh,nowrisesabovetheeasternbankoftheriver.Anascendingwaywindsrounditontheoutsidelikethespiralofascrew,remindingthetravellerofthecommonidealpicturesoftheTowerofBabel.ItmarksthesiteoftheancientcityofSamarrah,wheretheRomanarmyunderJovianrestedaftermarchingandfightingalongsummer'sday.ItsubsequentlybecamethecapitalofMotassemBillah,theeighthcaliphoftheAbbassidedynasty.WearyofthefrequentseditionsoftheturbulentinhabitantsofBaghdad,heresolvedtochangetheseatofgovernment,andchoseSamarrahashisresidence.Ifhedidnotbuild,hebeautified,thecity,anddisplayedinitgreatmagnificence.Themoderntown,inhabitedbyArabs,consistsofafewfallinghousessurroundedbyamudwall,defendedbybastionsandtowers.

Onbothsidesoftheriver,astheraftiscarriedgentlyalongbythenowsluggishcurrent,thetravellerseeshugemassesofbrickworkjuttingoutfromthefallingbanks,oroverhangingtheprecipiceofearthwhichhemsinthestream.HereandthereoneseestheremainsofthepalacesandcastlesofthelastPersiankingsandofthefirstCaliphs.TheplaceisstillcalledGadesiaorKadesia,andnearitwasfoughtthatgreatbattlewhichgavetothenewnationissuingfromthewildsofArabiathedominionoftheEasternworld.

Remainsofanearlierperiodarenotwanting.Ahugemoundabuttingonthewestbankoftheriver,andstillwithinsightofSamarrah,isknowntotheArabsastheSidd-ul-Nimroud,thewallorrampartofNimroud.Thecurrentbecomesmoregentleateverybroadreach,untiltheraftscarcely

glidespastthelowbanks.Thewaterhaslostitsclearnessanditspurity;tingedbythealluvialsoilithasturnedtoapaleyellowcolor.Theriveratlengthwidensintoanoblestream.Groupsofhalf-nakedArabsgathertogetheronthebankstogazeatthetravellers.AsolitaryraftoffirewoodforBaghdadfloats,likeourselves,almostimperceptiblyalong.

Wearenowamidstthedategroves.Ifitbeautumn,clustersofgoldenfruithangbeneaththefan-likeleaves;ifspring,theodoroforangeblossomsfillstheair.Thecooingofthedovesthatflutteramongstthebranches,begetsapleasingmelancholy,andafeelingoflistlessnessandrepose.

Theraftcreepsroundaprojectingbankandtwogildeddomesandfour

statelyminarets,allglitteringintheraysofaneasternsun,suddenlyrisehighabovethedensebedofpalms.TheyareofthemosqueofKathimain,whichcoversthetombsoftwooftheImaumsorholysaintsoftheSheeahsect.

ThelowbanksswarmwithArabs,--men,women,andnakedchildren.Mudhovelsscreenedbyyellowmats,andgroaningwater-wheelsworkedbythepatientox,areseenbeneaththepalms.TheTigrisbecomeswiderandwider,andthestreamisalmostmotionless.Circularboats,ofreedscoatedwithbitumen,skimoverthewater.Horsemen,andridersonwhite

7/31/2019 Ninevah


asses,[189]hurryalongtheriverside.Turksinflowingrobesandwhiteturbans,Persiansinhighblackcapsandclose-fittingtunics,theBokharapilgriminhiswhitehead-dressandway-worngarments,theBedouinchiefinhistasseledkeffiehandstripedaba,Baghdadladieswiththeirscarletandwhitedraperiesfrettedwiththreadsofgold,andtheirblackhorsehairveils,concealingeventheirwantoneyes,Persianwomenwrappedintheirsightlessgarments,andArabgirlsintheirsimpleblueshirts,areallmingledtogetherinonemotleycrowd.AbusystreamoftravellersflowswithoutceasingfromthegatesofthewesternsuburbofBaghdadtothesacredprecinctsofKathimain.

Apine-shapedconeofsnowywhitenessrisestotheright;nearitareoneortwodroopingpalms,thatseemfastfallingtodecay,likethebuildingoverwhichtheycannolongerthrowtheirshade.ThisisthetombofZobeide,thelovelyqueenofHaroun-al-Reshid,anamethatraisesmanyapleasantassociation,andrecallstomemoryathousandromanticdreamsofearlyyouth.

Wepassthepalaceofthegovernor,anedificeofmeanmaterialsandproportions.Atitswindowsthepashahimselfandthevariousofficersofhishouseholdmaybeseenrecliningontheirdivans,amidstwreathsofsmoke.Acrazybridgeofboatscrossesthestream,andappearstobarallfurtherprogress.Atlengththechainsareloosened,twoorthreeoftherudevesselsarewithdrawn,andtheraftsglidegentlythrough.Afew

minutesmore,andweareanchoredbeneaththespreadingfoldsoftheBritishflag,oppositeahandsomebuilding,notcrumblingintoruinslikeitsneighbours,butkeptinrepairwithEuropeanneatness.Asmallironsteamerfloatsmotionlessbeforeit.WehavearrivedatthedwellingoftheEnglishConsul-generalandpoliticalagentoftheEastIndiaCompanyatBaghdad.

Itwasearlyinthemorningofthe26thOctoberthatIlandedatthewell-rememberedquayoftheBritishresidency.IntheabsenceofColonelRawlinson,theninEngland,hispoliticaldutieshadbeenconfidedtoCaptainKemball,nowtheEastIndiaCompany'sResidentatBushire.Hereceivedmewithgreatkindness,andIacknowledgewithgratitudethehospitalityandeffectiveassistanceIinvariablyexperiencedfromhim

duringmysojournatBaghdad,andmyresearchesinBabylonia.

Morethantenyearshadpassedsincemyfirstvisittothecity.TimehadworkeditschangesamongstthosewhothenformedthehappyandhospitableEnglishsocietyofBaghdad.Dr.Rosswasnomore.InhimArabaswellasEuropean,richaswellaspoor,MohammedanaswellasChristian,hadlostagenerousandfaithfulfriend.

TwelveyearsagofoursteamersfloatedontheTigris,andwereengagedinexploringthethenalmostunknownriversofMesopotamiaandSusiana.TheirofficersformedasmallEnglishcolonyinBaghdad.Threeofthosevesselshadlongbeenwithdrawn,onealonehavingbeenlefttokeepupamonthlycommunicationbetweenthiscityandBusrah.Itistoberegretted,

however,thatavesselbettersuitedtothenavigationoftherivershasnotbeenselected.

TheexpeditionunderCol.Chesney,andthesubsequentascentoftheEuphrates,byfarthemostarduousundertakingconnectedwithitsnavigation,butaccomplishedwithgreatskillbyCaptainCampbelloftheEastIndiaCompany'sservice,haveprovedthatforordinarypurposesthisriverinitspresentconditionisnotnavigableeveninthelowerpartofitscourse.Theneglecttokeepuptheembankmentshasincreasedtheobstacles,anditisdoubtfulwhetherasteamerofeventhesmallest

7/31/2019 Ninevah


usefulsize,couldnowfinditswaythroughthegreatmarshesthatabsorbthewatersoftheEuphratesfornearly200milesaboveitsconfluencewiththeTigrisatKorna.Thelatterriveris,forthepresent,navigablefromthePersianGulftovesselsdrawingfromthreetofourfeetwateralmostasfarasTekrit,andprobably,forvesselspurposelyconstructed,asfarasNimroud.TheusualnegligenceandindifferenceoftheTurkishgovernmentare,however,bringingaboutthesamechangesinthecourseandconditionofthisstreamasinthoseoftheEuphrates.

Baghdad,withitslongvaultedbazarsrichwiththeproduceandmerchandiseofeveryclime,itsmixedpopulationofTurks,Arabs,Persians,Indians,andmenofallEasternnations,itspalmgrovesandgardens,itspaintedpalacesandunsightlyhovels,itspresentmiseryanditsformermagnificence,havebeensofrequentlydescribed,thatIwillnotdetainthereaderwithanyminuteaccountofthiscelebratedcity.Tyranny,disease,andinundationshavebroughtitverylow.Nearlyhalfofthespaceinclosedwithinitswallsisnowcoveredbyheapsofruins,andthepopulationisdailydecreasing,withoutthehopeofchange.DuringmyresidenceinBaghdadnoonecouldgofarbeyondthegateswithouttheriskoffallingintothehandsofwanderingArabs,whoprowleduncheckedovertheplains,keepingthecityitselfalmostinacontinualstateofsiege.Notwithstandingthesedrawbacks,theimportanceofitspositionissogreatthatBaghdadmustatalltimescommandaconsiderabletrade.ItisalinkbetweentheEastandtheWest;itisthestore-housefromwhich

thetribesoftheDesertobtaintheirclothingandtheirsupplies,anditisthekeytotheholyplacesannuallysoughtbythousandsuponthousandsofPersianpilgrimsoftheSheeahsect.[190]

TheonlyremainsoftheBabylonianperiodhithertodiscoveredwithinthecitywallsaretheruinsofanenormousdrainorsubterraneanpassage,builtoflargesquarebricksbearingthenameofNebuchadnezzar;theloftypileofsundriedbricks,intermixedwithlayersofreeds,calledAkker-Kuf,whichnowrisesinthemidstofamarshtothewestoftheTigris,aboutfourorfivemilesfromthecitygates,hasfrequentlybeendescribed.DuringmyvisittoBaghdaditwasnoteasytoreachthisruinonaccountoftheswamp,andasitismerelyasolidmassofmudmasonry,excavationsinitwouldscarcelyhaveledtoresultsofanyinterestor

importance.

IfoundthecountryaroundBaghdadsooverrunwithBedouinsandothertribesinopenrevoltagainstthegovernment,thatitwassometimebeforeIcouldventuretoleavethecityfortheruinsofBabylon.Nottolosetime,IemployedtheJebourswhohadaccompaniedmefromMosulinexcavatingsomemoundsnotfarfromthegatesofthecity,ontheeasternbankoftheTigris.ThelargestwascalledTelMohammed,andwasaboutfourmilesfromBaghdad,neartheArabvillageofGherara.Theonlyobjectsofanyinterestdiscoveredtherewereseveralhollowbronzeballs,withthenameofakingengravedupontheminBabyloniancuneiformcharacters;afewrudeimagesoftheAssyrianVenusinbakedclay,suchasarefoundinmostruinsofthesameperiod;apairofbronzeankle-rings,

someterracottavases,andotherrelicsofthesamenature.Foundationsinbrickmasonrywerealsouncovered,buttherewerenotracesofsculptureorinscriptions.

[Illustration:FiguresofAssyrianVenusinbakedClay.]

Itwasnotuntilthe5thofDecemberthatIwasabletoleaveBaghdad.Ihadbeenstrugglingwithmyoldenemy,intermittentfever,andthesurroundingcountrywasstillinthehandsoftheArabs,tworeasonsforremainingwithinthegates.AtlengthAbdePasha,thegovernorofthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


province,placedhimselfattheheadofhistroops,andmarchedagainsttherebellioustribes.Beforebeginninghiscampaign,however,hehadtodamthemouthofalargecanalcalledtheHindiyah,inordertodrainthevastmarshestothewestofBabylon.IntotheseinaccessibleswampstheArabshaddriventheirbuffaloes,andtheretheydefiedtheTurkishtroops.

BeforegoingtoHillahIdeterminedtovisitthegovernor,andtomakeacquaintancewithseveralSheikhsofthesoutherntribesfriendlytotheTurkishgovernmentwhowereinhiscamp.IaccordinglyleftBaghdad,accompaniedbyM.Aristarki,anaccomplishedGreekgentlemanintheserviceofthePorte,andbyoneAhmed-al-Khod,ahighlyintelligent,activeandfaithfulArabofthetribeoftheAgayl,whohadlongbeenintheserviceofCaptainJones.Hisacquaintancewiththecountry,andhisconnectionbymarriagewithFerhantheShammarchief,renderedhimaveryusefulguideandcompanioninajourneythroughtheDesert.

LeavingBaghdad,afterfordingditchesandwadingthroughwateranddeepmud,inthreehours'timewecametothecaravanseraiofKhan-i-Zad,wherewefoundTimourMirza,oneoftheexiledPersianprinces.Hewassurroundedbyhawksofvariouskindsstandingonperchesfixedintheground,andbynumerousattendants,eachbearingafalcononhiswrist.AmongsthisowncountrymenandtheArabstheprinceheldthefirstplaceasasportsman;hisgunwasunerringinitsaim,hisfalconswere

unequalledfortheirtraining,andhekneweveryhunting-groundwithinmanydays'journeyofBaghdad.Hewasnolessfamedforcourageinwarthanforskillinthechase,andhisexploitsinbothareequallynotoriousamongthetribesofMesopotamia.

TheplainsbetweenKhan-i-ZadandtheEuphratesarecoveredwithaperfectnetworkofancientcanalsandwatercourses;but"adroughtisuponthewatersofBabylon,andtheyweredried."[191]Theirloftyembankments,stretchingoneverysideinlonglinesuntiltheyarelostinthehazydistance,ormagnifiedbythemirageintomountains,stilldefythehandoftime,andseemrathertheworkofnaturethanofman.Thefaceofthecountry,too,isdottedwithmoundsandshapelessheaps,theremainsofancienttownsandvillages.Alongrideoftenhoursthroughthissceneof

solitudeanddesolationbroughtustothetentsofthePashaofBaghdad,pitchedonthewesternbankoftheEuphrates,belowthevillageofMusseiyib,andontheinletoftheHindiyahcanal.AstringofboatshadbeenplacedacrosstherivertoconnectthecampofthegovernorwithBaghdad.Asweapproachedweheardaloudhumofhumanvoices;butthewholeencampmentwasconcealedbydensecloudsofdust.OnceoverthebridgewefoundourselvesinthemidstofacrowdofTurkishsoldiers,Arabs,andworkmenofeverykindhurryingtoandfroinwilddisorder;somebearingearthandmudinbaskets,orintheircloaks,othersbendingundertheweightofbundlesofbrushwood,mats,andropes.Womenandgirlsweremingledwiththemen,andastheylaboredtheychantedinamonotonoustoneversesonthePashaandtheirchiefs,improvisedfortheoccasion.

ThisbusythrongwasbuildingupthedamwhichwastoshutoutthewatersoftheEuphratesfromthecanal,drythemarshes,andbringtherebellioustribestoobedience.Thenatureofthematerialsandoftheworkdidnot,however,promiseaveryfavorableorspeedyresult.Theyhadindeednosoonerraisedhalftheirfrailbarrierofearthandfascines,thantheimpetuouscurrentwashedawayinanightthefruitsofamonth'stoil.ThePashahadsummonedtohisaidallthetribesthatstillownedhisauthority;histentswerecrowdedwithArabSheikhsfromtheplains,andKurdishBeysfromthemountains.Abouttwothousandregulartroopsanda

7/31/2019 Ninevah


largebodyofirregularhorseandfootcompletedthemotleyarmyhehadgatheredroundhimattheHindiyah.

IspentthefollowingdaywithAbdePasha,whowasanardentsportsman,andentertainedmewithhawking.TheArabandKurdishchiefs,whowereinhiscamp,weresummonedatdawntoaccompanyhim.Weformedaltogetheraverygayandgoodlycompany.Bustards,hares,gazelles,francolins,andseveralwildanimalsaboundedinthejungleandtheplains,andbeforewereturnedintheafternoonscarcelyahorsemanwaswithoutsometrophyofthechasedanglingfromhissaddle.

ThehawkmostvaluedbyEasternsportsmenisthe_Shaheen_,avarietyofthenorthernperegrinefalcon,andesteemedthemostnobleoftherace.Althoughthesmallestinsize,itiscelebratedforitscourageanddaring,andisconstantlythethemeofPersianverse.ThosefromtheGebelShammar,inNedjd,arethemostprized,butbeingonlybroughtbyoccasionalpilgrimsfromMecca,areveryrare.ThenextbestaresaidtocomefromTokat,inAsiaMinor.TheShaheenshouldbecaughtandtrainedwhenyoung.Itstrikesitsquarryintheair,andmaybetaughttoattackeventhelargesteagle.

Thenextinvalueisthe_Balaban_,whichcanbetrainedtostrikeitsquarryeitherintheairorontheground.ItisfoundintheneighbourhoodofBaghdadandinotherpartsofMesopotamia;iscaughtand

trainedwhenfullgrown,andisflownatgazelles,hares,cranes,bustards,partridges,andfrancolins.

The_Baz_and_ShahBaz_(?Asturpalumbarius,thegoshawk,andtheFalcolanarius)isremarkableforthebeautyofitsspeckledplumageandforitssize.Itstrikesintheairandontheground,and,ifwelltrained,maytakecranesandotherlargegame.

The_Chark_(?Falcocervialis),theusualfalconoftheBedouins,alwaysstrikesitsquarryontheground,excepttheeagle,whichitmaybetrainedtoflyatintheair.Itischieflyusedforgazellesandbustards,butwillalsotakeharesandothergame.

ThebirdusuallyhawkedbytheArabsisthemiddle-sizedbustard,orhoubara.Itisalmostalwayscapturedontheground,anddefendsitselfvigorouslywithwingsandbeakagainstitsassailant,whichisoftendisabledintheencounter.Thefalconisgenerallytrainedtothisquarrywithafowl.Themethodpursuedisverysimple.Itisfirsttaughttotakeitsrawmeatfromaman,orfromtheground,thedistancebeingdailyincreasedbythefalconer.Whenthehabitisacquired,thefleshistiedtothebackofafowl;thefalconwillatonceseizeitsusualfood,andreceivesalsotheliverofthefowl,whichisimmediatelykilled.Abustardisthen,ifpossible,capturedalive,andusedinthesameway.Inafewdaysthetrainingiscomplete,andthehawkmaybeflownatanylargebirdontheground.

Thefalconry,however,inwhichEasternstakemostdelight,isthatofthegazelle.Forthisverynobleandexcitingsport,thefalconandgreyhoundmustbetrainedtohunttogetherbyaprocessunfortunatelysomewhatcruel.Inthefirstplace,thebirdistaughttoeatitsdailyrationofrawmeatfastenedonthestuffedheadofagazelle.Thenextstepistoaccustomittolookforitsfoodbetweenthehornsofatamegazelle.Thedistancebetweentheanimalandthefalconerisdailyincreased,untilthehawkwillseekitsmeatwhenabouthalfamileoff.Agreyhoundisnowlooseduponthegazelle,thefalconbeingflownatthesame.Whentheanimalisseized,whichofcoursesoontakesplace,itsthroatiscut,and

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thehawkisfedwithapartofitsflesh.Afterthussacrificingthreegazelles,theeducationofthefalconandgreyhoundisdeclaredtobecomplete.Thechiefartintrainingistoteachthetwotosingleoutthesamegazelle,andthedognottoinjurethefalconwhenstrugglingonthegroundwiththequarry.Thegreyhound,however,soonlearnstowatchthemovementsofitscompanion,withoutwhoseassistanceitcouldnotcaptureitsprey.

Thefalcon,whenloosedfromitsjesses,fliessteadilyandnearthegroundtowardstheretreatinggazelles,andmarkingone,soonseparatesitfromtheherd.Itthendartsattheheadoftheaffrightedanimal,throwsittotheground,oronlychecksitinitsrapidcourse.Thegreyhoundrarelycomesupbeforetheblowhasbeenmorethanoncerepeated.Thefalconerthenhastenstosecurethequarry.Shouldthedognotsucceedincapturingthegazelleafterithasbeenstruckforthethirdorfourthtime,thehawkwillgenerallysulkandrefusetohuntanylonger.IoncesawaverypowerfulfalconbelongingtoAbdePashaholdagazelleuntilthehorsemensucceededinspearingtheanimal.Thefleetnessofthegazelleissogreat,that,withouttheaidofthehawk,veryfewdogscanovertakeit,unlessthegroundbeheavyafterrain.

ThepursuitofthegazellewiththefalconandhoundovertheboundlessplainsofAssyriaandBabyloniaisoneofthemostexhilaratingandgracefulofsports,displayingequallythenoblequalitiesofthehorse,

thedog,andthebird.Thetimeofdaybestsuitedforhawkingisveryearlyinthemorning,beforetheeaglesandkitesaresoaringinthesky.Thefalconshouldnotbefedforseveralhoursbeforeitistakentothechase.Whennothunting,theArabsgiveitmeatonlyonceaday.Somehawksrequiretobehooded,suchastheCharkandtheShaheen;othersneednocoveringfortheeyes.Thehoodisgenerallymadeofcoloredleather,witheyesworkedonitinbeads,andgoldandvariegatedthreads.Tasselsandornamentsofvariouskindsareadded,andthegreatchiefsfrequentlyadornafavouritebirdwithpearlsandpreciousstones.Tothelegsaresometimesfastenedsmallbells.Fewhawkswillreturntothefalconerwithoutthelure,whichconsistsofthewingofabustardorfowl,orofapieceofmeatattached

toastring,andswungroundintheair.TheEasternhuntsmanhasadifferentcallforeachvarietyoffalcon.Agoodcharkwillsometimestakeasmanyaseightortenbustardsorfiveorsixgazellesinthecourseofamorning.

Ihaveintroducedtheseremarksonfalconry,foundedonpersonalexperience,asthisnoblescienceisprobablyofthegreatestantiquity,andisstillthefavoritepursuitoftheEasternwarrior.

BeforeleavingthecampIobtainedletterstotheprincipalchiefsofthesoutherntribesfromthePashaaswellasfromWadi,theSheikhoftheZobeide,andotherinfluentialSheikhs.Afterridingaboutfourhoursweperceivedahugehilltothesouth.Aswedrewnearer,itsflattable-like

topandperpendicularsides,risingabruptlyfromanalluvialplain,showedthatitwastheworkofman,andnotanaturalelevation.Atlengthwecouldplainlydistinguisharounditgreatembankments,theremainsofwallsandcanals.Gradually,asthecaravanslowlyadvanced,theruinassumedadefiniteshape.ItwasthemoundofBabel,betterknowntotravellersastheMujelibé,anamenotnowgiventoitbytheArabinhabitantsofthesurroundingcountry.

ThisisthefirstgreatruinseenonapproachingancientBabylonfromthenorth.BeyonditlonglinesofpalmshemintheEuphrates,whichnow

7/31/2019 Ninevah


windsthroughthemidstoftheancientcity.TothevastmoundofBabelsucceedlongundulatingheapsofearth,bricks,andpottery.Asolitarymassofbrickwork,risingfromthesummitofthelargestmound,markstheremainsknowntotheArabsasthe"Mujelibé,"orthe"overturned."[192]

Othershapelessheapsofrubbishcoverformanyanacrethefaceoftheland.Onallsides,fragmentsofglass,marble,pottery,andinscribedbrickaremingledwiththatpeculiarnitrousandblanchedsoil,which,bredfromtheremainsofancienthabitations,checksordestroysvegetation,andrendersthesiteofBabylonanakedandhideouswaste.Owlsstartfromthescantythickets,andthefouljackalskulksthroughthefurrows.Truly"thegloryofkingdomsandthebeautyoftheChaldees'excellencyisaswhenGodoverthrewSodomandGomorrah.Wildbeastsofthedesertliethere;andtheirhousesarefullofdolefulcreatures;andowlsdwellthere,andsatyrsdancethere.Andthewildbeastsoftheislandscryintheirdesolatehouses,anddragonsintheirpleasantpalaces,"forherdayhascome.[193]

Afewblacktentsandflocksofsheepandcamelswerescatteredovertheyellowplain.TheybelongedchieflytotheZobeide,anancienttribe,renownedinthehistoryoftheconqueringArabsundertheirfirstcaliphs,andnowpasturingtheirflocksinthewildsofBabylonia.[194]FromAmran,thelastofthegreatmounds,abroadandwell-troddentrackwindsthroughthickgrovesofpalms.Aboutanhour'sridebeneathapleasant

shadebringsthetravellertothefallinggatewayofthetownofHillah.Ameanbazar,crowdedwithArabs,camels,andasses,leadstoabridgeofboatsacrosstheEuphrates.Theprincipalpartofthetown,containingthefortandtheresidenceofthegovernor,isontheoppositesideoftheriver.Weturnedoff,however,totheleft,asourquartershadbeenmadereadyonthewesternbank.Apartyofirregulartroopssentouttomeetme,conductedmycaravantoaspacioushousestandingontheveryedgeofthestream,andbelongingtooneoftheprincipalfamiliesoftheplace.Ithadoncecontainedrichfurniture,andhandsomelydecoratedroomsinthePersianstyle,butwasnowfastfallingintoutterruin.Thecoldwindwhistledthroughtherottenwoodenpanelsofthewindows,fortherewasnoglass,andthecrumblingceilingandfloorthreatenedtogivewaytogether.Inthisfraildwellingwepreparedtopassapartofourwinter

inBabylonia.

[Illustration:TheMujelibéorKasr(fromRich).]

CHAPTERXXII.

THECHIEFSOFHILLAH.--PRESENTOFLIONS.--THESONOFTHEGOVERNOR.--DESCRIPTIONOFTHETOWN.--ZAID.--THERUINSOFBABYLON.--CHANGESINTHECOURSEOFTHEEUPHRATES.--THEWALLS.--VISIT

TOTHEBIRSNIMROUD.--DESCRIPTIONOFTHERUIN.--VIEWFROMIT.--EXCAVATIONSANDDISCOVERIESINTHEMOUNDOFBABEL.--INTHEMUJELIBÉORKASR.--THETREEATHELÉ.--EXCAVATIONSINTHERUINOFAMRAN.--BOWLS,WITHINSCRIPTIONSINHEBREWANDSYRIACCHARACTERS.--THEJEWSOFBABYLONIA.

MyfirstcareonarrivingatHillahwastoestablishfriendlyrelationswiththeprincipalinhabitantsofthetownaswellaswiththeTurkishofficerincommandofthesmallgarrisonthatguardeditsmudfort.Osman

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Pasha,thegeneral,receivedmewithcourtesyandkindness,andduringtheremainderofmystaygavemeallthehelpIcouldrequire.Onmyfirstvisithepresentedmewithtwolions.Onewasnearlyoffallsize,andwaswellknowninthebazarsandthoroughfaresofHillah,throughwhichhewasallowedtowanderunrestrained.Hewasaccustomedtohelphimselfatthestallsofthebutchers,andfromthewickerboatsofthefishermen;andwhenfull,heallowedtheboystoplaytheirpranksuponhim.HewastallerandlargerthanaSt.Bernarddog,and,likethelion,generallyfoundonthebanksoftheriversofMesopotamia,waswithoutthedarkandshaggymaneoftheAfricanspecies.Theotherlionwasbutacub,andhadrecentlybeenfoundbyanArabintheHindiyahmarshes.Unfortunatelyitfellillofthemange,towhichtheanimalwhenconfinedisveryliable,andsoonafterdied.TheotherwastoooldtobesenttoEnglandbyland,andIwasthusunabletoprocurespecimensforthiscountryoftheBabylonianlion,whichhasnot,Ibelieve,beenseeninEurope.

TheMudir,orgovernorofHillah,wasShabibAgha,theheadofoneoftheprincipalfamiliesofthetown.Heclaimedakindofhereditaryrighttothisoffice.Hewasagedandinfirm,sufferingfromasthma,andlittleabletomanagepublicaffairs,whichwerechieflyconfidedtohisyoungestandfavoriteson,aboyofabouttwelveyearsold.Itwaswiththischildthat,incommonwiththeinhabitantsofHillah,Itransactedbusiness.Hereceivedandpaidvisitswithwonderfuldignityanddecorum.Hisnotesandhisinquiriesaftermyhealthandwantswerecouchedinthemosteloquent

andsuitableterms.Heshowedawarmandaffectionateinterestinmywelfareandinthesuccessofmyundertakingswhichwasquitetouching.Everymorninghecrossedtheriverwithacrowdofsecretaries,slaves,andattendants,toascertainbypersonalinspectionwhetherIneededanyhelp.Hewasanobleboy,withblacksparklingeyes,andabrightolivecomplexion.HeworethelongsilkenrobesofatownArab,withthefringedkeffiehorstripedheadkerchiefoftheBedouinfallingoverhisshoulders.Onthewhole,hemadeasgoodandactiveagovernorasIhaveoftenmetwithinanEasterntown,andwasaninstanceofthatprecocitywhichisfrequentlyseeninEasternchildren.Acordialfriendshipwassoonestablishedbetweenus,and,duringmystayatHillah,AzeezAgha,forsuchwashisname,wasmyconstantguest.

FromtheprincipalpeopleofHillah,aswellasfromShabibAgha(thefatherofAzeez),Ireceivedeveryhelp.LikemosttownsinthispartofTurkey,itispeopledbyArabs,oncebelongingtodifferenttribes,butnowforgettingtheirclanshipsinasedentarylife.Theymaintain,however,afriendlyintercoursewiththeBedouinsandwiththewildinhabitantsofthemarshes,beingalwaysreadytounitewiththeminthrowingofftheirobediencetotheSultan,andfrequentlymaintainingforsometimetheirindependence.

Atthetimeofmyvisit,itsinhabitantswereanxiouslywaitingtheresultoftheexpeditionofAbdePashaagainsttherebellioustribes.TheirallegiancetotheTurkishgovernorandtheconsequentpaymentoftaxesdependeduponitssuccess.IfthePashawerebeatentheywoulddeclare

openlyinfavoroftheArabs,withwhom,itwassuspected,theywerealreadyincommunication.TheHindiyahmarshesarewithinsightofthetown,andtheKazail(thetribethatdwellinthem)ravagedthecountrytoitsgates.IwasconsequentlyunabletodomorethanvisitthecelebratedruinoftheBirsNimroud.Toexcavateinitinthethendisturbedstateofthecountrywasimpossible.

Hillahmaycontainabouteightorninethousandinhabitants.TheEuphratesflowsthroughthetown,andisabouttwohundredyardswideandfifteenfeetdeep;anoblestream,withagentlecurrent,admirablyfittedfor

7/31/2019 Ninevah


steamnavigation.Thehouses,chieflybuiltofbrickstakenfromtheruinsofancientBabylon,aresmallandmean.Aroundthetown,andaboveandbelowitforsomemiles,aregrovesofpalmtrees,formingabroadbeltonbothsidesoftheriver.Intheplainbeyondthemafewcanalsbearwatertoplotscultivatedwithwheat,barleyandrice.

AmongsttheinhabitantsofHillahwithwhomIbecameacquaintedwasoneZaid,aSheikhoftheAgayl,averyworthy,hospitablefellow.HelivedinHillah,wherehishouse,opentoeverytraveller,wasaplaceofmeetingfortheArabsoftheDesertfromNejdtotheSinjar.Tokeepupthisunboundedhospitalityhehadadategroveandafewsheep,andcultivatedalittlelandoutsidethewallsofthetown.HewasthussuppliedwithnearlyallthatwasnecessaryforanArabentertainment.[195]Heusuallyaccompaniedmeinmyexpeditions,andprovedaninvaluableguide.WithoneAli,alsoachiefoftheAgayl,amanofwitandanecdote,thoughsomewhatofabuffoon,andwithotherSheikhs,heusuallyspenttheeveningwithme,relatingArabstories,anddescribingdistantregionsandtribes,untilthenightwasfarspent.

Havingthusestablishedrelationswiththeprincipalinhabitantsofthetown,whocouldassistorinterruptme,astheywerewellorilldisposed,IcouldventuretocommenceexcavationsinthemostimportantruinsonthesiteofBabylon.HalfconcealedamongthepalmtreesontheeasternbanksoftheEuphratesaboveHillah,areafewhamletsbelonging

toArabs,whotillthesoil.FromthemIwasabletoprocureworkmen,andthustomakeup,withtheadditionofmyJebours,severalpartiesofexcavators.TheywereplacedunderthesuperintendenceofLatiffAghaandanintelligentChaldæanChristianofBaghdad,whohadenteredmyservice.

[Illustration:PlanofPartoftheRuinsofBabylonontheEasternBankoftheEuphrates.]

TheruinsofBabylonhavebeenfrequentlydescribed[196],sothatIshallhereonlygiveageneralsketchofthem,withoutenteringintoaccuratedetailsofmeasurementsanddistances;atthesametimereferringmyreadertotheaccompanyingplan,whichwillenablehimtounderstandthepositionoftheprincipalmounds.

TheroadfromBaghdadtoHillahcrosses,nearthevillageofMohawill,awideanddeepcanalstillcarryingwatertodistantgardens.Onthesouthernbankofthisartificialstreamisalineofearthenramparts,whicharegenerallybelievedtobethemostnorthernremainsoftheancientcityofBabylon.Fromtheirsummitthetravellerscansaboundlessplain,throughwhichwindstheEuphrates,withitsdarkbeltofevergreenpalms.Risinginthedistance,highaboveallsurroundingobjects,istheonesquaremound,informandsizemorelikeanaturalhillthantheworkofmen'shands.Thisisthefirstgreatruintotheeastoftheriver,andtheArab,asIhavesaid,namesit"Babel."

Thetraveller,beforereachingthisruin,stillaboutfourmilesdistant,

followsabeatentrackwindingamidstlowmounds,andcrossingtheembankmentsofcanalslongsincedry,oravoidingtheheapsofdriftedearthwhichcoverthewallsandfoundationsofbuildings.Somehaveheretracedthelinesofthestreets,andthedivisionsbetweentheinhabitedquartersofancientBabylon.Asyetnotraceswhateverhavebeendiscoveredofthatgreatwallofearthrising,accordingtoHerodotus,totheheightof200royalcubits,andnolessthanfiftycubitsbroad;noroftheditchthatencompassedit.Themoundsseemtobescatteredwithoutorder,andtobegraduallylostinthevastplainstotheeastward.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


ButsouthwardofBabel,forthedistanceofnearlythreemiles,thereisalmostanuninterruptedlineofmounds,theruinsofvastedifices,collectedtogetherasintheheartofagreatcity.Theyareinclosedbyearthenramparts,theremainsofalineofwallswhich,leavingthefootofBabel,stretchedinlandabouttwomilesandahalffromthepresentbedoftheEuphrates,andthenturningnearlyatrightanglescompletedthedefencesonthesouthernsideoftheprincipalbuildingsthatmarkthesiteofBabylon,ontheeasternbankoftheriver.BetweenitsmostsouthernpointandHillah,asbetweenMohawillandBabel,canonlybetracedlowheapsandembankments,scatteredirregularlyovertheplain.

Itisevidentthatthespaceinclosedwithinthiscontinuousrampart,couldnothavecontainedthewholeofthatmightycity,whosemagnificenceandextentwerethewonderoftheancientworld.ThewallsofBabylon,accordingtoHerodotus,measured120stadiaoneachside,andformedaperfectsquareof480stadia,ornearlysixtymiles.Severallaterwritershaverepeatedhisstatement.StraboandDiodorusSiculushavehoweverreducedthecircuitofthecityto385and360stadia;andsuch,accordingtoClitarchus,wereitsdimensionswhenityieldedtoAlexander.

TheexistingremainswithintherampartagreeaslittleinformasinsizewiththedescriptionsofBabylon;forthecitywasaperfectsquare.Mr.Rich,inordertoexplainthesedifficulties,wasthefirsttosuggestthatthevastruintothewestoftheEuphrates,calledtheBirsNimroud,

shouldbeincludedwithinthelimitsofBabylon.Thereisnodoubtthat,byimaginingasquarelargeenoughtoincludethesmallermoundsscatteredovertheplainsfromMohawilltobelowHillahononesideoftheriver,andtheBirsNimroudatitssouth-westernangleontheother,thesiteofacityofthedimensionsattributedtoBabylonmightbesatisfactorilydetermined.Butthenitmustbeassumed,thatneithertheouterwallnortheditchsominutelydescribedbyHerodotuseverexisted.

Accordingtotheunitedtestimonyofancientauthors,thecitywasdividedbytheEuphratesintotwoparts.Theprincipalexistingruinsaretotheeastsideoftheriver;thereareveryfewremainstothewest,betweenHillahandtheBirsNimroud.Indeed,insomepartsoftheplain,therearenoneatall.Thisfactmight,toacertainextent,beexplained

inthefollowingmanner.TothisdaytheEuphrateshasatendencytochangeitscourseandtoloseitselfinmarshes_tothewest_ofitsactualbed.Wefindthatthelowcountryonthatsidewassubjecttocontinualinundationsfromtheearliestperiods,andthat,accordingtoatradition,Semiramisbuiltembankmentstorestraintheriver.

ThechangesinitscoursetowhichtheEuphrateswasthusliable,appearonlytohavetakenplace_tothewest_ofitspresentbed.Afterthemostcarefulexaminationofthecountry,Icouldfindnotraceswhateverofitshavingatanytimeflowedmuchfurtherthanitnowdoestotheeast,althoughduringunusualfloodsitoccasionallyspreadsovertheplainonthatside.Thegreatmoundsstillrisingontheeasternbankprovethis.Supposing,therefore,theriverfromdifferentcausestohaveadvancedand

recededduringmanycenturies,betweentheHindiyahmarshesanditspresentchannel,itwilleasilybeunderstoodhowtheruins,whichmayoncehavestoodonthewesternbank,havegraduallybeenwashedaway,andhowtheexistingflatalluvialplainhastakentheirplace.Inthismannerthecompletedisappearanceoftheprincipalpartofthewesterndivisionofthecitymay,Ithink,beaccountedfor.

ItismoredifficulttoexplainthetotalabsenceofalltracesoftheexternalwallandditchsofullyandminutelydescribedbyHerodotusandotherancientwriters,and,accordingtotheirconcurrentaccounts,of

7/31/2019 Ninevah


suchenormousdimensions.Ifavastlineoffortifications,withitsgates,andequidistanttowers,allofstupendousheightandthickness,didonceexist,itisscarcelytobebelievedthatnopartwhateverofitshouldnowremain.Dariusandotherconquerors,itistrue,aresaidtohavepulleddownanddestroyedthesedefences;butitissurelyimpossiblethatanyhumanlaborcouldhaveobliteratedtheirverytraces.EvensupposingthattheruinsaroundHillahdonotrepresentthesiteofancientBabylon,therearenoremainselsewhereinMesopotamiatocorrespondwiththosegreatramparts.Iftherehadbeen,theycouldnothaveescapedtheresearchesofmoderntravellers.

ButHerodotusstatesthat,inthemidstofeachdivisionofthecity,therewasacircularspacesurroundedbyaloftywall:onecontainedtheroyalpalace;theother,thetempleofBelus.Therecanbelittledifficultyinadmittingthatthemoundswithintheearthenrampartontheeasternbankoftherivermightrepresentthefirstofthesefortifiedinclosures,whichweknowtohavebeenonthatsideoftheEuphrates.Itisnotimpossible,asRichhassuggested,thattheBirsNimroud--aroundwhich--asitwillbeseen--therearestillthetracesofaregularwall,maybetheremainsofthesecond;orthatthegradualchangesinthecourseoftheriverjustdescribed,mayhavecompletelydestroyedalltracesofit.

Itmaybeinferred,Ithink,fromthedescriptionsofHerodotusand

DiodorusSiculus,thatBabylonwasbuiltonthesamegeneralplanasNineveh.Itmustnotbeforgotten,also,thattheouterwallsofNinevehaswellasthoseofBabylonhaveentirelydisappeared.Arewetosupposethatthehistoriansintheirdescriptionsconfoundedthemwiththosesurroundingthetemplesandpalaces;andthattheseexteriorfortificationsweremererampartsofmudandbrushwood,suchasarestillraisedroundmodernEasterncities?Suchdefences,whenonceneglected,wouldsoonfalltodust,andleavenotracesbehind.IconfessthatIcanseenootherwayofaccountingfortheentiredisappearanceoftheseexteriorwalls.[197]

IwillnowdescribetheresultsofmyresearchesamongsttheruinsnearHillah.Partiesofworkmenwereplacedatonceonthetwomostimportant

mounds,theBabeloftheArabs(theMujelibéofRich)andtheMujelibé(theKasrofthesametraveller).Iwascompelled,asIhavestated,toabandonmyplanofexcavatingintheBirsNimroud.Thisgreatpileofmasonryisaboutsixmilestothesouth-westofHillah.Itstandsontheveryedgeofthevastmarsh,formedbythewatersoftheHindiyahcanal,andbytheperiodicalfloodsoftheEuphrates.Theplainbetweenitandthetownis,intimesofquiet,undercultivation,andisirrigatedbyacanalderivedfromtheEuphratesnearthevillageofAnana.

ShortlyaftermyarrivalatHillahIvisitedtheBirsNimroud,accompaniedbyZaid,andapartyofwell-armedAgayls.ThiswasunfortunatelytheonlyopportunityIhadofexaminingtheseremarkableruinsduringmyresidenceinBabylonia.[198]Thecountrybecamedailymoredisturbed,andnoArabs

couldbeinducedtopitchtheirtentsnearthemounds,ortoworkthere.

TheBirsNimroud,"thepalaceofNimrod"oftheArabs,and"theprisonofNebuchadnezzar"oftheJews;byoldtravellersbelievedtobetheveryruinsofthetowerofBabel;bysome,again,supposedtorepresentthetempleofBelus,thewonderoftheancientworld;and,byothers,tomarkthesiteofBorsippa,acitycelebratedasthehighplaceoftheChaldeanworship,isavastheapofbricks,slag,andbrokenpottery.Thedrynitrousearthoftheparchedplain,drivenbeforethefurioussouthwind,hasthrownoverthehugemassathincoveringofsoilinwhichnoherbor

7/31/2019 Ninevah


greenthingcanfindnourishmentortakeroot.Thus,unlikethegrass-clothedmoundsofthemorefertiledistrictsofAssyria,theBirsNimroudiseverabareandyellowheap.Itrisestotheheightof198feet,andhasonitssummitacompactmassofbrickwork,37feethighby28broad,[199]thewholebeingthus235inperpendicularheight.Neithertheoriginalformorobjectoftheedifice,ofwhichitistheruin,havehithertobeendetermined.Itistoosolidforthewallsofabuilding,anditsshapeisnotthatoftheremainsofatower.Itispiercedbysquareholes,apparentlymadetoadmitairthroughthecompactstructure.Ononesideofit,beneaththecrowningmasonry,liehugefragmentstornfromthepileitself.Thecalcinedandvitreoussurfaceofthebricksfusedintorock-likemasses,showthattheirfallmayhavebeencausedbylighting;and,astheruinisrentalmostfromtoptobottom,earlyChristiantravellers,aswellassomeofmorerecentdate,havenothesitatedtorecogniseinthemproofsofthatdivinevengeance,which,accordingtotradition,arrestedbyfirefromheaventheimpiousattemptofthefirstdescendantsofNoah.EventheJews,asitwouldappear,fromBenjaminofTudela,atonetimeidentifiedtheBirsNimroudwiththeTowerofBabel.

Whatevermayhavebeentheoriginaledifice,ofwhichtheBirsNimroudistheruin,orwhoeveritsfounder,itiscertainthatasyetnoremainshavebeendiscoveredtheremoreancientthanofthetimeofNebuchadnezzar.Everyinscribedbricktakenfromit--andtherearethousandsandtensofthousands--bearthenameofthisking.Itmust,

however,beremembered,thatthisfactisnoproofthatheactuallyfoundedthebuilding.Hemayhavemerelyaddedto,orrebuiltanearlieredifice.Thus,althoughitwouldappearbytheinscriptionsfromNimroud,thatthenorth-westpalacewasoriginallyraisedbyakingwholivedlongbeforehimwhosenameoccursonthewallsofthatmonument,yetnotonefragmenthasbeenfoundofthetimeofthatearliermonarch.SuchisthecaseinotherAssyrianruins.Itis,therefore,notimpossiblethatatsomefuturetimemoreancientremainsmaybediscoveredattheBirs.

Iwillnowdescribetheruins.Itmustbefirstobserved,thattheyaredividedintotwodistinctparts,undoubtedlytheremainsoftwodifferentbuildings.Arampartorwall,theremainsofwhicharemarkedbymoundsofearth,appearstohaveinclosedbothofthem.Tothewestofthehigh

mound,toppedbythetower-likepileofmasonry,isasecond,whichislargerbutlower,andinshapemoreliketheruinsontheeasternbankoftheEuphrates.Itistraversedbyravinesandwater-courses,andstrewedoveritaretheusualfragmentsofstone,brick,andpottery.UponitssummitaretwosmallMohammedanchapels,oneofwhich,theArabsdeclare,isbuiltoverthespotwhereNimroudcastthepatriarchAbrahamintothefieryfurnace,accordingtothecommonEasterntradition.Nothavingbeenabletoexcavateinthismound,Icouldnotascertainwhetheritcoverstheremainsofanyancientbuilding.

Travellers,asfarasIamaware,havehithertofailedinsuggestinganysatisfactoryrestorationoftheBirs.Itisgenerallyrepresented,withoutsufficientaccuracy,asamereshapelessmass.Butifexaminedfromthe

summitoftheadjoiningmound,itsoutlinewouldatoncestrikeanyoneacquaintedwiththeruinstothewestofMosul,describedinaformerofthiswork.[200]Thesimilaritybetweenthemwillberecognised,anditwillbeseenthattheyarealltheremainsofedificesbuiltuponverynearly,ifnotprecisely,thesameplan.ThebestpublishedrepresentationsoftheBirsNimroudappeartometobethosecontainedinamemoirofthataccurateandobservingtraveller,thelateMr.Rich.

Themoundrisesabruptlyfromtheplainononeface,thewestern,andfallstoitslevelbyaseriesofgradationsontheopposite.Suchis

7/31/2019 Ninevah


preciselythecasewiththeruinsofMokhamour,Abou-Khameera,andTelErmah.Thebrickworkstillvisibleinthelowerpartsofthemound,aswellasintheupper,showsthesidesofseveraldistinctstagesorterraces.Ibelievetheisolatedmassofmasonrytobetheremainsofoneofthehighestterraces,ifnotthehighest,andthewholeedificetohaveconsisted,ontheeasternorsouth-easternside,ofaseriesofstagesrisingoneabovetheother,and,onthewesternornorth-western,ofonesolidperpendicularwall.Thebackofthebuildingmayhavebeenpainted,as,accordingtoDiodorusSiculus,[201]werethepalacesofBabylon,withhuntingorsacredscenes,andmayhavebeendecoratedwithcornicesorotherarchitecturalornaments.Therewerenomeansofascenttoit.Norwasitaccessibleinanypartunlessnarrowgallerieswerecarriedrounditatdifferentelevations.

Itisprobablethattheascentsfromterracetoterraceconsistedofbroadflightsofsteps,orofinclinedways,carriedupthecentreofeachstage.Suchwemayjudge,fromthedescriptionsofDiodorus,wastheformofsomeofthegreatbuildingsatBabylon.Theascentstothedifferentterracesofthehanginggardens,hesays,werelikethegradinesofatheatre.[202]TherearecertainlytracesoftheminthemoundsintheDesertwestofMosul,ifnotintheBirsNimroud.HerodotusstatesthatthetempleofBelusatBabylonconsistedofaseriesoftowers.Hisdescriptionisnotveryclear,butitmaybeinferredthatthevariouspartsofthestructurewerenearlysquare.Thebasewasundoubtedlyso,

andsoalsomayhavebeentheupperstories,althoughgenerallyrepresentedasround.ThereisnothinginthewordusedbyHerodotus([Greek:purgos])toshowthattheywerecircular,andthattheyweresolidmassesofmasonryappearstometobeevident,forupontheupperone,wasconstructedthetempleofthegod.Theascent,too,wasontheoutside.Without,however,venturingtoidentifytheBirsNimroudwiththeruinsofthistemple,itmaybeobservedthatitishighlyprobableoneuniformsystemofbuildingwasadoptedintheEast,forsacredpurposes,andthattheseascendingandrecedingplatformsformedthegeneraltypeoftheChaldæanandAssyriantemples.

Theedifice,ofwhichthisremarkableruinistheremains,wasbuiltofkiln-burntbricks.Fragmentsofstone,marble,andbasalt,scattered

amongsttherubbish,showthatitwasadornedwithothermaterials.Thecementbywhichthebrickswereunitedisofsotenaciousaquality,thatitisalmostimpossibletodetachonefromthemassentire.TheruinisaspecimenoftheperfectionoftheBabylonianmasonry.

IwillnotenterintothemanydisputedquestionsconnectedwiththetopographyofBabylon,norwillIendeavortoidentifythevariousexistingruinswiththemagnificentedificesdescribedbyancientauthors.ThesubjectwasfullyinvestigatedbythelateMr.Rich,andthepublishedcontroversybetweenhimandMajorRennell,hasleftlittletobeadded.Atheory,firstIbelieveputforwardbyCol.Rawlinson,thattheruinsaroundHillahdonotmarkthesiteofthefirstBabylon,whichmustbesoughtforfurthertothesouth,asfarevenasNiffer,has,Ipresume,

beenabandoned.Therecannot,however,beadoubtthatNebuchadnezzaralmostentirelyrebuiltthecity,andperhapsnotexactlyontheancientsite;aconjecture,asIhaveshown,perfectlyinaccordancewithScriptureandwithEasterncustoms.[203]Anaccuratesurveyoftheruinsisnowchieflyrequired.RecenttravellersareofopinionthattheBirsNimroudcannotbeidentified,asconjecturedbyRich,withthetempleofBelus,butthatitmarksthesiteofthecelebratedChaldæancityofBorsippa,whichRichtracedfourleaguestothesouthofHillah,insomemoundscalledBoursabytheArabs.Untilmoreauthenticinformationbeobtainedfrominscriptionsandactualremains,thequestioncannot,I

7/31/2019 Ninevah


think,beconsideredassettled.

FromthesummitoftheBirsNimroudIgazedoveravastmarsh,forBabylonismade"apossessionforthebitternandpoolsofwater."[204]InthemidstoftheswampscouldbefaintlydistinguishedtheArabsettlementswhichshowedtheactivityofahiveofbees.Lightboatswereskimmingtoandfroovertheshallowwater,whilstmenandwomenurgedonwardstheirflocksandladencattle.TheboomingofthecannonsoftheTurkisharmy,directedagainstthefortofHawaina,resoundedinthedistance;andtheinhabitantsofthemarshwerealreadyhurryingwiththeirpropertytosaferretreatsinanticipationofthefalloftheirstronghold.

Tothesouth-west,intheextremedistance,rosethepalm-treesofKifil,castingtheirscantyshadeoverasmalldome,thetombofEzekiel.Tothisspotannuallyflockincrowds,astheirforefathershavedoneforcenturies,theJewsofBaghdad,Hillah,andothercitiesofChaldæa,thedescendantsofthecaptivesofJerusalem,whostilllingerinthelandoftheirexile.AlthoughtraditionalonemayplaceintheneighbourhoodofBabylonthetomboftheprophet,yetfromaveryearlyperiodthespotappearstohavebeensoughtinpilgrimagebythepiousHebrew.Ivisitedtheedificesomeyearsago.Itisnowbutaplainbuilding,despoiledoftheornamentsandmanuscriptswhichitonceappearstohavecontained.BenjaminofTudela,givesacuriousandinterestingdescriptionofit,whichthereaderwillfindwellworthexamining.[205]

WegallopedbackfromtheBirsNimroudtoHillah,crossingthedrearyanddesertedplainwithoutmeetinganyofthosemarauderswhowerewanderingoverthefaceofthecountry.

IremainedinHillahuntilthe19thDecember,ridingeverydaytotheruinsontheeasternbankoftheriver,andpersonallysuperintendingtheexcavations.ThefirsttrencheswereopenedinthegreatmoundofBabel,aboutfivemilesfromthegateofHillah,andthreequartersofamilefromtheriver.IsoughtthesubterraneanpassageopenedanddescribedbyMr.Rich,andonremovingtherubbishIsooncameto"thequadrangularfunnel,aboutthirteenfeetsquare,ofburntbrickandbitumen,"whichhehaddiscovered.Afterthelapseoffortyyears,ithadbeenoncemore

completelyfilledwithearth.TheworkmenagainenteredtheundergroundchamberinwhichMr.Richfoundacoffinofwood,containingaskeletonstillwellpreserved.

Beneaththismasonrywerefoundseveralentirecoffins,preciselysimilartothatdiscoveredbyMr.Rich.Theystillheldskeletons,moreorlessentire,whichfelltopiecesassoonasexposedtotheair.Norelicorornamenthadbeenburiedwiththebodies.Thewoodofthecoffinswasinthelaststageofdecay,andcouldonlybetakenoutpiecemeal.Afoulandunbearablestenchissuedfromtheseloathsomeremains,andfromthepassageswhichhadbecomethedensofwildbeasts,whohadworkedtheirwayintothemfromabove.Itwasalmostimpossibletostayformanyminutesunderground.EventheArabswerecompelledtoleavetheirwork

afterafewdays.

Onthenorthernsideofthemound,abovetheseplacesofsepulture,aretheremainsofamassivewallofsun-driedbrick.Themasonryisnotunitedbybituminouscement,asinthevaults,butapparentlybysimplemud,asinmodernArabbuildings,andbetweeneachcourseofbricksarespreadthinlayersofreedsstillperfectlypreserved.

ThecoffinsdiscoveredatBabelareofacomparativelyrecentperiod,andarenotpureBabylonian.Attheveryearliesttheymaybeofthetimeof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


theSeleucidæ,butIaminclinedtothinkthattheyareevenofastilllaterdate.Itisevidentthattheywereburiedafterthedestructionoftheedificecoveredbythemound.

Numerousdeeptrenchesopenedonthesurfaceofthemound,andseveraltunnelscarriedintoitssidesatdifferentlevels,ledtonootherdiscoverythanthatofnumerousrelicsofadoubtfulperiod,suchasarefoundinlargenumbers,inamoreorlessperfectstate,amongstallBabylonianruins,especiallyafterheavyrainshavewashedawaytheloosesoil,orhavedeepenedtheravines.Themostinterestingwerearrowheadsinbronzeandiron,smallglassbottles,somecolored,othersribbedandotherwiseornamented,andvasesofearthenwareofvariousformsandsizes,sometimesglazedwitharichbluecolor.These,andingeneralwhattravellershavefound,maybesetdownasofthetimeoftheGreekoccupation,andsomeaslateasthesixthorseventhcenturyoftheChristianera.

[Illustration:JugofSoapstone,fromtheMoundofBabel.]

AtBabelwasalsofound,atsomedepthbelowthesurface,acuriousjug,whichIshouldhavebeeninclinedtobelievealtogethermodern,hadtherenotbeenonenearlysimilarinform,andofthesamesubstance,inMr.Rich'scollectionintheBritishMuseum,andconsequently,itmaybepresumed,obtainedfromthesameruins.Itisofsoapstone,rudelycarved

andornamented,andresemblesinshapethevesselsstillusedbytheArabsforablutions.

Scatteredoverthemound,andatalittledepthbeneaththesurface,werenumerousbricks,bearingtheusualsuperscriptionofNebuchadnezzar.Noancientmasonrywas,however,discovered,fromwhichthesebrickshadbeendetached.

Itwasthusevidentthattheremainsoftheoriginaledifice,ifanystillexisted,weretobesoughtfarbeneaththesurface,andIaccordinglyopenedtunnelsattheveryfootofthemoundnearlyonalevelwiththeplain.Afewdayslaborenabledmetoascertainthatwehadatlastfoundtheancientbuilding.Ontheeasternsidetheworkmensoonreachedsolid

piersandwallsofbrickmasonry,buriedunderanenormousmassofloosebricks,earth,andrubbish.Weuncoveredeightortenpiersandseveralwallsbranchinginvariousdirections,butIfailedtotraceanyplan,ortodiscoveranyremainswhateverofsculpturedstoneorpaintedplaster.

DuringtheremainderofmystayinBabylonia,workmencontinuedtoexcavateinthispartofthemound,uncoveringaconfusedheapofruinsandstandingmasonry.Theenormousaccumulationoflooserubbishabovethem,notahardcompactmass,asatNineveh,butcontinuallycrumblingandfallingin,exposedthementoariskscarcelywarrantedbytheresultsoftheirlabors.Imuchdoubtwhetherevenmoreextensiveexcavationswouldleadtoanyimportantdiscoveries.Itispossible,however,thatdetachedinscriptionsorsculpturedslabsmightbe

obtained.

Onthewesternandsouthernsidesofthemoundwerealsodiscovered,attheverybase,remainsofsolidmasonry.ThebricksboretheusualsuperscriptionofNebuchadnezzar,andwerefirmlycementedtogetherwithfinewhitemortar.Itisthusevidentthatavastedificeoncestoodeitherontheleveloftheplain,orraiseduponenormouspiersandbuttressesofbrickwork,andthatthetombs,andanytracesofbuildingthatmayexistonornearthepresentsurfaceofthemound,areofamorerecentperiod.IwillnotattempttodecidewhetherBabelbetheremains

7/31/2019 Ninevah


ofagreatpalaceofNebuchadnezzar,ofthecelebratedhanginggardens,orofatemple.

Theonlyremainsofbuildingnotcoveredbysoilandsand,butstillstandingaboveground,onthesiteofBabylon,andpartoftheancientcity,areaboutonemiletothesouthofthemoundlastdescribed.ItistheKasr,orPalace,ofRich,anamebywhichitisnowgenerallyknowntotravellers,buttheArabscallittheMujelibé,orthe"overturned."Itrisesontheriverbank,andisaboutsevenhundredyardssquare.Theprincipalpartofthisgreatruinconsistsofloosebricks,tiles,andfragmentsofstone;butnearlyinthecentreasolidmassofmasonry,stillentire,andevenretainingtracesofarchitecturalornament,protrudesfromtheconfusedheapofrubbish.Piers,buttresses,andpilastersmaybetraced;buttheworkofdestructionhasbeentoocompletetoallowustodeterminewhethertheybelongtotheinteriororexteriorofapalace.Isoughtinvainforsomecluetothegeneralplanoftheedifice.UponnearlyeverybrickisclearlyanddeeplystampedthenameandtitlesofNebuchadnezzar,andtheinscribedfaceisalwaysplaceddownwards.Thiswonderfulpieceofmasonryissoperfect,andofsofreshapaleyellowcolor,thatitseemsbuttheworkofyesterday,althoughitisundoubtedlypartofabuildingwhichstoodinthemidstofoldBabylon.

ThisruinhasforagesbeentheminefromwhichthebuildersofcitiesrisingafterthefallofBabylonhaveobtainedtheirmaterials.Tothis

daytherearemenwhohavenoothertradethanthatofgatheringbricksfromthisvastheapandtakingthemforsaletotheneighbouringtownsandvillages,andeventoBaghdad.ThereisscarcelyahouseinHillahwhichisnotalmostentirelybuiltwiththem;andasthetravellerpassesthroughthenarrowstreets,heseesinthewallsofeveryhovelarecordofthegloryandpowerofNebuchadnezzar.

Alargenumberofthefragmentsofbrickfoundinthisruinarecoveredwithathickenamelorglaze.Thecolorshaveresistedtheeffectsoftime,andpreservetheiroriginalbrightness.Partsoffiguresandornamentsmaystillbetracedonmanyspecimens.Theprincipalcolorsareabrilliantblue,red,adeepyellow,white,andblack.WelearnfromancientauthorsthatthewallsofthepalacesofBabylonwerepaintedwith

thefiguresofmenandanimals,andtherecanbenodoubtthattheseenamelledbricksarefromthewallsofanedifice.Fragmentsofglass,Babyloniangemsandcylinders,smallbronzefigures,andotherrelicsofthisnatureareoccasionallyfoundonthemoundbytheArabs,andareboughtbytheJewsofHillah,whosellthemagaintoEuropeantravellers.

ThehugeliondescribedbyRichstillexistshalfburiedintherubbish.Theanimalstandsoveramanwithoutstretchedarms,whichhasledsomeimaginativetravellerstoseeinthegrouparepresentationofDanielinthelions'den.Thefiguresareinblackbasalt,eithersobarbarouslyexecutedastoshowverylittleprogressinart,orleftunfinishedbythesculptor.Itwouldscarcelybeworthremoval.

NearthenorthernedgeoftheruinisthesolitarytreeAthelé,well-knowntotheArabs,andthesourceofvarioustraditions.ItissaidtohavestoodinthehanginggardensofBabylon,andtohavebeensavedbyGodfromthegeneraldestructionwhichoverwhelmedtheimpiouscity,thatAlimighttiehishorsetoitstrunkafterthedefeatoftheenemiesoftheProphetinthegreatbattleofHillah.Noothertreeofthesamekindexists,accordingtothesametradition,inthewholeworld.Itis,however,Ibelieve,aspeciesoftamarisk,whoselongfeatherybranchestrembleinthebreezewithamelancholymurmurwellsuitedtothedesolateheapoverwhichitmayhavewavedforathousandyears.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Itwasahopelesstasktoexcavateinashapelessheapofrubbishofsuchvastextent,whichhadalreadybeenexploredineverydirection.Withtheexceptionofthesolitarypileofmasonryrisinginthecentre,theruinconsistedoflittleelsethanofshatteredbrickwork.Icontinued,however,afewofthetunnelsalreadyopened,butthefallingrubbish,whichhadmorethanonceoverwhelmedtheseekersafterbricks,sooncompelledmetodesist.TheonlyrelicofanyinterestIwasfortunateenoughtodiscoverwasafragmentoflimestone,onwhichwerepartsoftwofigures,undoubtedlythoseofgods.ThenameofonedeityisaddedinBabyloniancharacterstoitssculpturedimage.Itisprobablyonlyasmallportionofaslaborfriezecontainingaseriesofsimilarfigures;butIwasunable,afteracarefulandprolongedsearch,tofindanyotherpieces.Thefragment,however,isinteresting,asshowingthattheBabyloniansportrayedtheirdivinitiesinthesamemannerastheAssyrians.Theywearthesamehighhead-dressornamentedwithfeathersandrosettes,thelongcurledhairandbeard,andtheembroideredgarments,andtheyholdthesamestaffwitharingasthegodsintherocksculpturesofBavian.

Withtheexceptionofafewrudelyengravedgemsandenamelledbricks,thiswastheonlyrelicIobtainedfromtheMujelibé.

Excavationswerecarriedonforsomedaysinthesmallermoundsscattered

overtheplainbetweenBabelandtheruinlastdescribed,butwithoutanyresults,exceptthediscoveryoftheremainsofbrickmasonry,ofafewearthenvases,andofsomefragmentsofglass.

ThelastruinIexaminedwasamoundofgreatextent,sometimescalledbytheArabsJumjuma,fromaneighbouringvillageofthatname,andsometimes,asstatedbyRich,AmranbenAli,fromaKoubbé,orsmalldomedtomb,ofaMohammedansaintonitssummit.NomasonryishereseenasintheMujelibé.Allremainsofbuildings,iftherebeanystillexisting,aredeeplyburiedbeneaththeloosenitrousearth.Itistraversedbyinnumerableravines,anditsformandlevelareequallyirregular.Iopenedtrenchesinvariousparts,butcouldfindnotracesofanedificeofanykind.Somesmallobjectsofconsiderableinterest,were,however,

discovered.AlthoughnotofthetrueBabylonianepoch,theyare,onmorethanoneaccount,highlyimportant.

ThemoundofAmran,aswellasnearlyallthoseinBabylonia,hadbeenusedasaplaceofburialforthedeadlongafterthedestructionofthegreatedificeswhoseruinsitcovers.Somespecimensofglass,andseveralterracottafigures,lamps,andjars,dugoutofit,areevidentlyofthetimeoftheSeleucidæoroftheGreekoccupation.Withtheserelicswerefivecupsorbowlsofearthenware,andfragmentsofothers,coveredontheinnersurfacewithletterswritteninakindofink.SimilarobjectshadalreadybeenfoundinotherBabylonianruins.TwofromthecollectionofthelateMr.StewarthadbeendepositedintheBritishMuseum,andamongsttheantiquitiesrecentlypurchasedbytheTrusteesfromColonel

Rawlinsonareeightspecimens,obtainedatBaghdad,wheretheyaresometimesofferedforsalebytheArabs;butitisnotknownfromwhatsitestheywerebrought.ThecharactersuponthemareinformnotunliketheHebrew,andonsometheyresembledtheSabæanandSyriac.Thesebowlshadnotattractednotice,norhadtheinscriptionsuponthembeenfullyexaminedbeforetheywereplacedinthehandsofMr.ThomasEllis,ofthemanuscriptdepartmentintheBritishMuseum,agentlemanofgreatlearningandingenuityasaHebrewscholar.Mr.E.hassucceeded,aftermuchlabor,indecipheringtheinscriptions.[206]

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Littledoubtcan,Ithink,existastotheJewishoriginofthesebowls:andsuchbeingthecase,thereisnoreasontoquestiontheirhavingbelongedtothedescendantsofthoseJewswhowerecarriedcaptivebyNebuchadnezzartoBabylonandthesurroundingcities.Thesestrangersappeartohaveclungwithatenacitypeculiartotheirracetothelandoftheirexile.WecantracethemaboutBabylonfromalmostthetimeoftheirdeportationdowntothetwelfthcenturyoftheChristianera,whentheHebrewtraveller,BenjaminofTudela,wanderedovertheregionsoftheEastandamongthecitiesofthecaptivitytoseektheremnantofhisancientnation.DuringthePersiandominioninMesopotamiawefindthemenduringtorturesandpersecutionsratherthanhelptorebuildatemplededicatedtoafalsegod.[207]InthetimeoftheRomansupremacyintheEasttheyappeartohavebeenaturbulentrace,rebellingagainsttheirrulersandwagingcivilwaramongstthemselves.TheyhadcelebratedschoolsinmanycitiesofAssyriaandChaldæa.

AsearlyasthethirdcenturyHebrewtravellersvisitedBabylon,andsomeofthemhaveleftrecordsofthestateoftheircountrymen.TheBabylonianTalmud,compiledinthebeginningofthesixthcentury,containsmanyvaluablenoticesoftheconditionoftheJewishcoloniesinBabylonia,andenumeratesmorethantwohundredBabyloniantownsthenunderthePersianrule,inhabitedbyJewishfamilies.Inmanuscriptsoftheeighthandninthcenturieswehavefurthermentionofthesecolonies.

Inthetwelfthcentury,BenjaminofTudelafoundnolessthantwentythousandJewsdwellingwithintwentymilesofBabylon,andworshippinginthesynagogue,built,accordingtotradition,bytheprophetDanielhimself.InHillahaloneweretenthousandpersonsandfoursynagogues,andhegivesthenumberoffamiliesandoftheirplacesofworship,ineverytownhevisited,keepingduringhisjourneyanexactdailyitinerary,whichincludesnearlyallthestationsonthemoderncaravanroutes.Allowingforsomeexaggerationonthepartofthistraveller,itisstillevidentthataveryconsiderableJewishpopulationlivedinthecitiesofBabylonia.Ithasgreatlydiminished,andinsomeplaceshasentirelydisappeared.AfewfamiliesstilllingeratHillah,andinBaghdadtheprincipalnativetradeandmoneytransactionsarecarriedonbyJews,whoarethebankersandbrokersofthegovernorsofthecity,as

theynodoubtancientlywereoftheAbassideCaliphs.

AccordingtotheirowntraditiontheseHebrewfamiliesweredescendedfromtheJewsofthecaptivity.Theystillpreservedtheirpedigrees,andtracedtheirlineagetotheprincesandprophetsofJudah.TheirchiefresidedatBaghdad,andhistitlewas"LordPrinceoftheCaptivity."Hewaslineallydescended,accordingtohispeople,fromkingDavidhimself.EvenMohammedansacknowledgedhisclaimtothisnoblebirth,andcalledhim"OurLord,theSonofDavid."HisauthorityextendedoverthecountriesoftheEastasfarasThibetandHisdostan.Hewastreatedonalloccasionswiththegreatesthonorandrespect,andwhenheappearedinpublicheworerobesofembroideredsilk,andawhiteturbanencircledbyadiademofgold.[208]

Wemaythensafelyconclude,thattheseearthenbowlsbelongedtoJewsofBabyloniaandChaldæa.SimilarrelicshavebeenfoundasIhavestatedinmanyruinsnearBabylon.Idiscoveredanentirebowl,aswellasmanyfragments,atNiffer.Nearlyatthesametime,severalweredugoutofamoundabouthalf-waybetweenBaghdadandHillah,buttheywereunfortunatelydispersedordestroyedbeforeIcouldobtainpossessionofthem.OnallthesesitesduringthefirstcenturiesoftheChristianera,dweltJewishfamilies.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Asnodatewhateverisfoundintheinscriptions,itisdifficulttodeterminetheexacttimewhentheywerewritten.Wemustendeavourtoformsomeopinionuponsuchinternalevidenceastheymayafford.Mr.Ellisremarks,that,"asthisisthefirsttimeanythingofthekindhasbeenexaminedinEurope,hecanonlyhazardaconjecturefromtheformsoftheletters,whichare,certainly,themostancientknownspecimensoftheChaldæan,andappeartohavebeeninventedforthepurposeofwritingthecuneiformcharacterinamorecursiveandexpeditiousmanner."[209]InsupportofthisconjecturehecitesthelanguageoftheAssyrianinscriptionsascloselyresemblingthatonthebowls.Therelics,however,areevidentlyofdifferentdates.ThemostancientmightbereferredtothesecondorthirdcenturybeforeChrist,butmaybeofalaterperiod.Othersareundoubtedlyofamorerecentdate,andmightevenhavebeenwrittenaslateasthefifthcenturyofourera.TheSyriaccharactersonthelatterbowlappeartohavemarksofaSabæanorMendeanorigin,andonabowlfromMr.Stewart'scollectionthereisaninscription,unfortunatelyalmostdestroyedandnolongerdecipherable,inthatpeculiarcharacterstillusedbytheSabæansofSusiana.

Intheformsofexpressionandinthenamesoftheangels,theseinscriptionsbearastrikinganalogytotheapocryphalbookofEnoch,whichissupposedtohavebeenwrittenbyaJewofthecaptivity,shortlybeforetheChristianera.Thatsingularrhapsodyalsomentionsthe"sorceries,incantations,anddividingofrootsandtrees,"whichappear

tohavebeenpractisedbytheJewsatthatperiod,andtobealludedtoonthebowls.[210]

Astotheoriginaluseofthesevesselsitisnotimprobable,asconjecturedbyMr.Ellis,thatthewritingwastobedissolvedinwater,tobedrankasacureagainstdisease,oraprecautionagainsttheartsofwitchcraftandmagic.SimilarremediesarestillresortedtointheEastincasesofobstinateillness,andthereareMullahswhomakethepreparationofsuchcharmstheirpeculiarprofession.ThemoderninscriptionsgenerallyconsistofsentencesfromtheKoran,interspersedwithvariousmysticsignsandletters.Butifsuchwastheirobject,itisevidentthattheycouldnothavebeenusedforthatpurpose,asthewritinguponthemisperfectlyfresh,anditisessentialthatitshould

beentirelywashedintothewatertomaketheremedyefficacious.Astheywerefoundataconsiderabledepthbeneaththesurfaceinmoundswhichhadundoubtedlybeenusedasplacesofsepulture,Iamratherinclinedtobelievethattheywerecharmsburiedwiththedead,oremployedforsomepurposeatfuneralceremonies,andafterwardsplacedinthegrave.

CHAPTERXXIII.

STATEOFTHERUINSOFBABYLON.--CAUSEOFTHEDISAPPEARANCEOFBUILDINGS.--NATUREOFORIGINALEDIFICES.--BABYLONIANBRICKS.--THE

HISTORYOFBABYLON.--ITSFALL.--ITSREMARKABLEPOSITION.--COMMERCE.--CANALSANDROADS.--SKILLOFBABYLONIANSINTHEARTS.--ENGRAVEDGEMS.--CORRUPTIONOFMANNERS,ANDCONSEQUENTFALLOFTHECITY.--THEMECCAPILGRIMAGE.--SHEIKHIBNRESHID.--THEGEBELSHAMMAR.--THEMOUNDSOFELHYMER.--OFANANA.

SuchthenwerethediscoveriesamongsttheruinsofancientBabylon.TheywerefarlessnumerousandimportantthanIcouldhaveanticipated,nordidtheytendtoprovethattherewereremainsbeneaththeheapsofearth

7/31/2019 Ninevah


andrubbishwhichwouldrewardmoreextensiveexcavations.Itwasnotevenpossibletotracethegeneralplanofanyoneedifice;onlyshapelesspilesofmasonry,andisolatedwallsandpiers,werebroughttolight--givingnocluewhatevertotheoriginalformofthebuildingstowhichtheybelonged.IfthetraditionbetruethatXerxes,topunishtheBabyloniansandhumiliatetheirpriests,orderedthemutterlytodestroytheirtemplesandothergreatpublicedifices,andthatAlexandertheGreatemployed10,000meninvaintoclearawaytherubbishfromthetempleofBelusalone,[211]itisnotsurprisingthatwithasmallbandofArabslittleprogressshouldhavebeenmadeinuncoveringanypartoftheancientbuildings.

Nosculpturesorinscribedslabs,thepanellingofthewallsofpalaces,havebeendiscoveredamongsttheruinsofBabylonasinthoseofNineveh.Scarcelyadetachedfigureinstone,orasolitarytablet,hasbeendugoutofthevastheapsofrubbish."Babylonisfallen,isfallen;andallthegravenimagesofhergodshehathbrokenuntotheground."[212]

Thecompleteabsenceofsuchremainsistobeexplainedbythenatureofthematerialsusedintheerectionofeventhemostcostlyedifices.IntheimmediatevicinityofBabylontherewerenoquarriesofalabaster,oroflimestone,suchasexistednearNineveh.Thecitywasbuiltinthemidstofanalluvialcountry,farremovedfromthehills.Consequentlystoneforbuildingpurposescouldonlybeobtainedfromadistance.The

blackbasalt,afavoritematerialamongsttheBabyloniansforcarvingdetachedfigures,andforarchitecturalornaments,asappearsfromnumerousfragmentsfoundamongsttheruins,camefromtheKurdishmountains,orfromthenorthofMesopotamia.ItwasprobablyfloateddowntheEuphratesandTigrisonraftsfromthosedistricts.TheAssyrianalabastercouldhavebeenbroughtfromNineveh,andthewatercommunicationbytheriversandcanalsofferedgreatfacilitiesfortransport;yetenormouslaborandexpensewouldhavebeenrequiredtosupplysuchmaterialsinsufficientquantitiestoconstructanentireedifice,oreventopanelthewallsofitschambers.

TheBabylonianswere,therefore,contenttoavailthemselvesofthebuildingmaterialswhichtheyfoundonthespot.Withthetenaciousmudof

theiralluvialplains,mixedwithchoppedstraw,theymadebricks,whilstbitumenandothersubstancescollectedfromtheimmediateneighborhoodfurnishedthemwithanexcellentcement.Aknowledgeoftheartofmanufacturingglaze,andofcompoundingcolors,enabledthemtocovertheirbrickswitharichenamel,therebyrenderingthemequallyornamentalfortheexteriorandinterioroftheiredifices.Thewallsoftheirpalacesandtempleswerealsocoated,aswelearnfromseveralpassagesintheBible,withmortarandplaster,which,judgingfromtheircement,musthavebeenofveryfinequality.Thefingersoftheman'shandwrotethewordsofcondemnationoftheBabylonianempire"upontheplasterofthewalloftheking'spalace."[213]Uponthosewallswerepaintedhistoricalandreligioussubjects,andvariousornaments,and,accordingtoDiodorusSiculus,thebrickswereenamelledwiththefiguresofmenandanimals.

Imagesofstonewerenodoubtintroducedintothebuildings.WelearnfromtheBiblethatfiguresofthegodsinthismaterial,aswellasinmetal,werekeptintheBabyloniantemples.Butsuchsculptureswerenotcommon,otherwisemoreremainsofthemmusthavebeendiscoveredintheruins.

OnoneofthemostimportantBabylonianrelicsbroughttothiscountrywehavesomehighlycuriousnoticesofthearchitectureoftheBabylonians.Theyarecontainedintabletsinscribeduponablackstone,anddividedintotencolumns.TheinscriptioncommencesaccordingtoDr.Hincks,withthenameandtitlesofNebuchadnezzartheGreat,whosereignbegan,itmay

7/31/2019 Ninevah


beinferredfromPtolemy'sCanon,B.C.604.Heiscalled"Nabukudurruchur,kingofBabylon,sonofNabubaluchun,kingofBabylon."Wemayinferthathisgrandfatherwasnotakingfromtheomissionofhisname.Thesubsequentpartoftheinscriptioncontainsnonoticeofanyforeignconquests,butspeaksofthebuildingofvarioustemplesandpalacesinadditiontothewallsofBabylonandBorsippa.Ifthetabletscouldbecompletelydeciphered,andthemeaningofmanydoubtfulwordsaccuratelyascertained,muchinformationwouldbeobtainedrelatingtoBabylonianarchitecture.Thewallswerebuiltofburnedbricksandbitumenlinedwithgypsumandothermaterials.Someseemtohavebeenwainscotted.Overthesewallswaswoodwork,andonthetopanawningsustainedbypoles,like"thewhite,green,andbluehangings,fastenedwithcordsoffinelinenandpurpletosilverrings,andpillarsofmarble,"inAhasuerus'palaceatShushan.[214]Someofthewoodworkissaidtohavebeengilt,otherpartssilvered:andalargeportionofitwasbroughtfromLebanon.

MardukappearsinthisinscriptionastheprincipaldeityofBabylon,holdingtheplacethatAshurdoesonthemonumentsofNineveh.Heiscalled"thegreatLord,""LordofLord,""ElderoftheGods,"&c.Nebuseemstoholdthesecondrank.Thekingoffershimthanksgivingforwhathehasalreadydone,andpraysforhisblessingonhimselfandhishouse.[215]

ItmaybeconjecturedthatintheirgeneralplantheBabylonianpalacesandtemplesresembledthoseofAssyria.Weknowthatthearts,thereligion,thecustoms,andthelawsofthetwokindredpeoplewerenearlyidentical.Theyspoke,also,thesamelanguage,andused,verynearly,thesamewrittencharacters.Oneappearstohaveborrowedfromtheother;and,withoutattemptingtodecidethequestionofpriorityofindependentexistenceasanationandofcivilisation,itcanbeadmittedthattheyhadtoacertainextentacommonorigin,andthattheymaintainedformanycenturiesanintimateconnection.WefindnoremainsofcolumnsatBabylon,asnonehavebeenfoundatNineveh.Ifsucharchitecturalornamentswereused,theymusthavebeeneitherofwoodorofbrick.Themassypillars,withEgyptian-likecapitals,usuallychosenbyartistsfortherestorationofBelshazzar'spalacesandtemples,arethemere

creationsoffancy,andarenotwarrantedbyanyexistingremainswhatever.TheBabyloniancolumnmoreprobablyresembled,informandproportions,thatofNinevehandPersepolis.ItmayhavebeenamodificationoftheAssyrianwhichafterwardsgavebirthtothePersian,foritwasthroughBabylonthattheartsappeartohavepenetratedpartly,ifnotentirely,intoPersia.

AlthoughthebuildingmaterialsthususedinthegreatedificesofBabylonmayseemextremelymeanwhencomparedwiththoseemployedinthestupendouspalacetemplesofEgypt,andeveninthelessmassiveedificesofAssyria,yettheBabyloniansappeartohaveraised,withthemalone,structureswhichexcitedthewonderandadmirationofthemostfamoustravellersofantiquity.Theprofuseuseofcolor,andthetastedisplayed

initscombination,andintheornamentaldesigns,togetherwiththesolidityandvastnessoftheimmensesubstructureuponwhichthebuildingsproudlystood,mayhavechieflycontributedtoproducethiseffectuponthemindsofstrangers.Thepalacesandtemples,likethoseofNineveh,wereerecteduponloftyplatformsofbrickwork.TheoriginofAssyrianarchitecture,whichIhaveelsewheredescribed,[216]wasespeciallythatofBabylon.Thebricks,asinAssyria,wereeithersimplybakedinthesun,orwereburntinthekiln.Thelatterareofmorethanoneshapeandquality.Somearesquare;othersareoblong.[217]ThosefromtheBirsNimroudaregenerallyofadarkredcolor,whilstthosefromtheMujelibé

7/31/2019 Ninevah


aremostlyofalightyellow.Specimenshavebeenfrequentlybroughttothiscountry,andaretobefoundinmanypublicandprivatecollections.TheBabylonianinscribedbrickslongexcitedthecuriosityofthelearned,andgaverisetoavarietyofingeniousspeculationsastotheiruseandmeaning.Bysometheywerebelievedtobepublicdocuments;otherssawinthewritingdedicationstothegods,orregistersofgiftstotemples.ThequestionhasnowbeenentirelysetatrestbythediscoverymadebyDr.Hincks,thatalmosteverybrickhithertoobtainedfromtheruinsofBabylonbearsthesameinscription,withtheexceptionofoneortwounimportantwords,andthattheyrecordthebuildingofthecityofNebuchadnezzarthesonofNabubaluchun(?)

Afewinscribedtabletsofstoneandbakedclay,figuresinbronzeandterracotta,metalobjectsofvariouskinds,andengravedcylindersandgems,havebeenalmosttheonlyundoubtedBabylonianantiquitieshithertobroughttoEurope.Suchrelicsarepreservedinmanycabinets.ThesmalloriginalcollectionintheBritishMuseumbelongedpartlytoSirRobertKerPorter,andpartlytoMr.Rich.

ItmaynotbeoutofplacetoaddafewremarksuponthehistoryofBabylon.Thetimeofthefoundationofthiscelebratedcityisstillaquestionwhichdoesnotadmitofasatisfactorydetermination,andintowhichIwillnotenter.Somebelieveittohavetakenplaceatacomparativelyrecentdate;butif,asEgyptianscholarsassert,thename

ofBabylonisfoundonmonumentsoftheeighteenthEgyptiandynasty,wehavepositiveevidenceofitsexistenceatleastinthefifteenthcenturybeforeChrist.[218]AftertheriseoftheAssyrianempire,itappearstohavebeenatonetimeunderthedirectruleofthekingsofNineveh,andatanothertohavebeengovernedbyitsownindependentchiefs.ExpeditionsagainstBabyloniaarerecordedintheearliestinscriptionsyetdiscoveredinAssyria;and,asithasbeenseen,eveninthetimeofSennacheribandhisimmediatepredecessors,largearmieswerestillfrequentlysentagainstitsrebelliousinhabitants.TheBabyloniankingdomwas,however,almostabsorbedinthatofAssyria,thedominantpoweroftheEast.Whenthisgreatempirebegantodecline,Babylonroseforthelasttime.MediaandPersiawereequallyreadytothrowofftheAssyrianyoke,andatlengththealliedarmiesofCyaxaresandthefatherof

NebuchadnezzarcapturedanddestroyedthecapitaloftheEasternworld.

BabylonnowrapidlysucceededtothatproudpositionsolongheldbyNineveh.UnderNebuchadnezzarsheacquiredthepowerforfeitedbyherrival.Theboundsofthecitywereextended;buildingsofextraordinarysizeandmagnificencewereerected;hervictoriousarmiesconqueredSyriaandPalestine,andpenetratedintoEgypt.Hercommerce,too,hadnowspreadfarandwide,fromtheeasttothewest,andshebecame"alandoftrafficandacityofmerchants."[219]

Buthergreatnessasanindependentnationwasshort-lived.TheneighbouringkingdomsofMediaandPersia,unitedunderonemonarch,hadprofited,nolessthanBabylon,bytheruinoftheAssyrianempire,and

werereadytodisputewithherthedominionofAsia.ScarcelyhalfacenturyhadelapsedfromthefallofNineveh,when"Belshazzar,thekingoftheChaldæeans,wasslain,andDarius,theMedian,tookthekingdom."[220]FromthattimeBabyloniasankintoamereprovinceofPersia.

AfterthedefeatofDariusandtheoverthrowofthePersiansupremacy,BabylonopeneditsgatestoAlexander,whodeemedthecitynotunworthytobecomethecapitalofhismightyempire.OnhisreturnfromIndiahewishedtorebuildthetempleofBelus,whichhadfallenintoruins,andin

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thatgreatworkhehadintendedtoemployhisarmy,nownolongerneededforwar.Thepriests,however,whohadappropriatedtherevenuesofthissacredshrine,andfearedlesttheywouldhaveagaintoapplythemtotheirrightfulpurposes,appeartohavepreventedhimfromcarryingouthisdesign.[221]

ThelastblowtotheprosperityandevenexistenceofBabylonwasgivenbySeleucuswhenhelaidthefoundationofhisnewcapitalonthebanksoftheTigris(B.C.322).AlreadyPatrocles,hisgeneral,hadcompelledalargenumberoftheinhabitantstoabandontheirhomes,andtotakerefugeintheDesert,andintheprovinceofSusiana.Thecity,exhaustedbytheneighbourhoodofSeleucia,returnedtoitsancientsolitude.Accordingtosomeauthors,neitherthewallsnorthetempleofBelusexistedanylonger,andonlyafewChaldæanscontinuedtodwellaroundtheruinsoftheirsacrededifices.

Still,however,apartofthepopulationappearstohavereturnedtotheirformerseats,forintheearlypartofthesecondcenturyoftheChristianerawefindtheParthianking,Evemerus,sendingnumerousfamiliesfromBabylonintoMediatobesoldasslaves,andburningmanygreatandbeautifuledificesstillstandinginthecity.

InthetimeofAugustus,thecityissaidtohavebeenentirelydeserted,exceptbyafewJewswhostilllingeredamongsttheruins.St.Cyril,of

Alexandria,declares,thatinhisday,aboutthebeginningofthefifthcentury,inconsequenceofthechokingupofthegreatcanalsderivedfromtheEuphrates,Babylonhadbecomeavastmarsh:andfiftyyearslatertheriverisdescribedashavingchangeditscourse,leavingonlyasmallchanneltomarkitsancientbed.ThenwereverifiedthepropheciesofIsaiahandJeremiah,thatthemightyBabylonshouldbebut"poolsofwater,""thattheseashouldcomeuponher,andthatsheshouldbecoveredwiththemultitudeofthewavesthereof."[222]

Inthebeginningoftheseventhcentury,atthetimeoftheArabinvasion,theancientcitiesofBabyloniawere"adesolation,adryland,andawilderness."AmidsttheheapsthatmarkedthesiteofBabylonherselfthererosethesmalltownofHillah.[223]

LongbeforeBabylonhadovercomeherrivalNinevehshewasfamousfortheextentandimportanceofhercommerce.Nopositioncouldhavethenbeenmorefavourablethanhersforcarryingonatradewithalltheregionsoftheknownworld.EvenonlymoderateskillandenterprisecouldscarcelyfailtomakeBabylon,notonlytheemporiumoftheEasternworld,butthemainlinkofcommercialintercoursebetweentheEastandtheWest.

Theinhabitantsdidnotneglecttheadvantagesbestoweduponthembynature.Asystemofnavigablecanalsthatmayexcitetheadmirationofeventhemodernengineer,connectedtogethertheEuphratesandTigris,thosegreatarteriesofhercommerce.Withaskill,showingnocommonknowledgeoftheartofsurveying,andoftheprinciplesofhydraulics,

theBabylonianstookadvantageofthedifferentlevelsintheplains,andoftheperiodicalrisesinthetworivers,tocompletethewatercommunicationbetweenallpartsoftheprovince,andtofertilisebyartificialirrigationanotherwisebarrenandunproductivesoil.Alexander,afterhehadtransferredtheseatofhisempiretotheEast,sofullyunderstoodtheimportanceofthesegreatworks,thatheorderedthemtobecleansedandrepaired,andsuperintendedtheworkinperson,steeringhisboatwithhisownhandthroughthechannels.

High-roadsandcausewaysacrosstheDesertunitedSyriaandPalestinewith

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Babylonia.FortifiedstationsprotectedthemerchantfromthewanderingtribesofArabia,walledcitiesservedasresting-placesandstore-houses,andwellsatregularintervalsgaveanabundantsupplyofwaterduringthehottestseasonoftheyear.OneofthosehighwayswascarriedthroughthecentreofMesopotamia,andcrossingtheEuphratesnearthetownofAnthemusialedintocentralSyria.AsecondappearstohaveleftBabylonbythewesternquarterofthecity,andenteredIdumæa,afterpassingthroughthecountryoftheNabathæans.OthersbranchedofftoTadmor,andtocitieswhichwerebuiltinthemidstoftheDesertalmostsolelyforpurposesoftrade.

TotheeastofBabyloniawasthecelebratedmilitaryandcommercialroaddescribedbyHerodotus.ItledfromSardistoSusainninetydaysjourney,andwasfurnished,atintervalsofaboutfifteenmiles,withstationsandpublichostelries,probablyresemblingthemoderncaravanseraisofPersia.

Merchandiseandtravellersdescendedtheriversuponraftsofskins,aswellasinboatsbuiltofreedscoatedwithbitumen,orofmoresolidmaterials.Thelandtradewasnodoubtprincipallycarriedon,asatthepresentday,bycaravansofmerchants,wholoadedtheirgoodsonthebacksofcamels,horses,andasses.

ItisdifficulttodeterminetohowfartheBabyloniansmayhavenavigatedinvesselstheIndianOcean.Ofthevariousarticlesofmerchandisestored

inBabylon,theproduceoftheislandsandshoresofthePersianGulf,andevenofIndia,formednoinconsiderablepart.Pearls,fromthefisheriesofBahrein,whichstillsupplyArabia,Persia,andTurkey,andperhapsevenfromCeylon;cotton,spices,frankincense,preciousstones,ivory,ebony,silks,anddyes,wereamongsttheobjectsoftradebroughttohermarkets.TheycouldonlyhavebeenobtainedfromthesoutherncoastsofArabia,anddirectlyorindirectlyfromtheIndianpeninsula.WelearnfromtheKouyunjikinscriptionsthatthepeopleinhabitingthecountryatthemouthsoftheunitedwatersoftheTigrisandEuphratespossessedvesselsinwhich,whendefeatedbytheAssyrians,theytookrefugeonthesea.TheprophetIsaiahalsoalludestotheshipsoftheChaldæans.[224]TimberforshipbuildingcouldhavebeenfloatedwitheasefromthemountainsofArmeniatotheveryquaysofBabylon,ortoher

portsattheheadofthePersianGulf.

Araceofdogs,muchprizedbytheBabylonians,wasbroughtfromIndia.AsatrapofBabylonisdeclaredtohavedevotedtherevenuesoffourcities,tothesupportofanumberoftheseanimals.OnasmallterracottatabletintheBritishMuseum,fromCol.Rawlinson'scollection,obtained,Ibelieve,atBaghdad,butprobablyfoundinsomeancientruinintheneighbourhood,isthefigureofamanleadingalargeandpowerfuldog,whichhasbeenidentifiedwithaspeciesstillexistinginThibet.

Tin,cedar-wood,andvariousarticles,werebroughtfromPhoeniciaandotherpartsofSyria,whichwereinreturnsuppliedwiththeproduceofIndiaandthePersianGulf,throughBabylon.[225]

WhilsttheBabyloniansthusimportedtheproduceoftheEastandWest,theyalsosuppliedforeigncountrieswithmanyvaluablearticlesoftrade.Corn,whichaccordingtotraditionfirstgrewwildinMesopotamia,andwastherefirsteatenbyman,wascultivatedtoagreatextent,andwassenttodistantprovinces.TheBabyloniancarpets,silks,andwoollenfabrics,wovenorembroideredwithfiguresofmythicanimalsandwithexquisitedesigns,werenotlessfamousforthebeautyoftheirtextureandworkmanship,thanfortherichnessandvarietyoftheircolors.Themuch-prizedSindones,orflowinggarments,weretheworkoftheloomsof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Babylonevenlongaftershehadceasedtobeacity.[226]

TheengravedgemsandcylindersdiscoveredintheruinsbearamplewitnesstotheskilloftheBabylonianlapidaries.ManyoftheserelicsexistinEuropeancollections,and,duringmyresidenceatHillah,IwasabletoobtainseveralinterestingspecimensfromtheArabs,whousuallypickthemuponthemoundsafterrain.Themostremarkableofthemisacylinderofspottedsienite,uponwhichareincisedsevenfigures,andafewBabyloniancharacters.Thelettersoftheinscriptionarerudelyformed,andhavenotyetbeendeciphered.

AnotherinterestinggemobtainedbymeatBabylonisanagatecone,uponthebaseofwhichisengravedawingedpriestordeity,standinginanattitudeofprayerbeforeacockonanaltar.Abovethisgroupisthecrescentmoon.TheHebrewcommentatorsconjecturethatNergal,theidolofthemenofCuth,hadtheformofacock.[227]

Thevasttrade,thatrenderedBabylonthegathering-placeofmenfromallpartsoftheknownworld,andsuppliedherwithluxuriesfromtheremotestclimes,hadatthesametimetheeffectofcorruptingthemannersofherpeople,andproducingthatgeneralprofligacyandthoseeffeminatecustomswhichmainlycontributedtoherfall.ThedescriptiongivenbyHerodotusofthestateofthepopulationofthecitywhenunderthedominionofthePersiankings,isfullysufficienttoexplainthecauseofherspeedy

decayandultimateruin.TheaccountoftheGreekhistorianfullytallieswiththedenunciationsoftheHebrewprophetsagainstthesinandwickednessofBabylon.Herinhabitantshadgraduallylosttheirwarlikecharacter.WhenthePersiansbrokeintotheircitytheywererevellingindebaucheryandlust;andwhentheMacedonianconquerorappearedattheirgates,theyreceivedwithindifferencetheyokeofanewmaster.

ItisnotdifficulttoaccountfortherapiddecayofthecountryaroundBabylon.Astheinhabitantsdesertedthecity,thecanalswereneglected.Whenoncethosegreatsourcesoffertilitywerechokedup,theplainsbecameawilderness.UponthewatersconveyedbytheirchannelstotheinnermostpartsofMesopotamiadependednotonlytheharvests,thegardens,andthepalmgroves,buttheveryexistenceofthenumerous

townsandvillagesfarremovedfromtheriverbanks.Theysoonturnedtomereheapsofearthandrubbish.Vegetationceased,andtheplains,parchedbytheburningheatofthesun,wereerelongonceagainavastaridwaste.

SuchhasbeenthehistoryofBabylon.Hercareerwasequallyshortandsplendid;andalthoughshehasthusperishedfromthefaceoftheearth,herruinsarestillclassic,indeedsacred,ground.Thetravellervisits,withnocommonemotion,thoseshapelessheaps,thesceneofsomanygreatandsolemnevents.Inthisplain,accordingtotradition,theprimitivefamiliesofourracefirstfoundaresting-place.HereNebuchadnezzarboastedofthegloriesofhiscity,andwaspunishedforhispride.TothesedesertedhallswerebroughtthecaptivesofJudæa.InthemDaniel,

undazzledbythegloriesaroundhim,remainedsteadfasttohisfaith,rosetobeagovernoramongsthisrulers,andprophesiedthedownfallofthekingdom.TherewasheldBelshazzar'sfeast,andwasseenthewritinguponthewall.BetweenthosecrumblingmoundsCyrusenteredtheneglectedgates.ThosemassiveruinscoverthespotwhereAlexanderdied.

SoonaftermyarrivalatHillah,thecaravanoftheHadj,orannualpilgrimagetoMecca,passedthroughthetownonitswaytoBaghdad.Theholyplaceshadthisyearbeenvisitedbythecholera,andofthemanywhohadcrossedtheDesertfewhadsurvived.Inthecrowdthathadassembled

7/31/2019 Ninevah


onthehighroadweremingledscenesofgriefandjoy.Themournfulwailofthewomenwasheardabovethemerrylaughofthosewhohadagainfoundtheirfriends.ThewildBedouinsofNejd,whohadguidedandprotectedthepilgrimsduringtheirarduousjourney,passedthroughthethrongontheirwearydromedaries.

AfteralapseofsomeyearstheannualhadjfromthesouthofTurkeyandPersiahadbeenabletofollowthedirectroadtoMeccaacrossthedesertofNejdandtheinteriorofArabia.Since,IbnReshid,achiefoftheGebelShammar,hasbyhiscourageandabilitiesacquiredthewholeofthatdistrict;andhasrenderedhimselfsufficientlypowerfultoholdincheckthevarioustribeswhichsurroundit.Pilgrimsunderhisprotectioncould,therefore,againventuretotaketheshortestroadtoMecca.Heundertooktofurnishthemwithcamels,andtoanswerfortheirsafetyfromHillahtotheholycitiesandback.

Thechiefpunctuallyfulfilledhisengagement,andthecaravanIhavedescribedwasthefirstthathadcrossedtheDesertformanyyearswithoutaccidentormolestation.ItwasunderthechargeofAbd-ur-Rahman,arelationofIbnReshid.IfrequentlysawthisSheikhduringhisshortresidenceatHillah,andheurgedmetoreturnwithhimtotheGebelShammar.ZaidandseveralotherAgaylsofferedtoaccompanyme;anditwaswithgreatregretthatIfeltunable,onvariousaccounts,toundertakeajourneyintoacountrysolittleknown,andsointeresting,ascentral

Arabia.AbetteropportunitycouldscarcelyhaveoccurredforenteringNedjd.

SheikhAbd-ur-RahmandescribedtheGebelShammarasaboundinginfertilevalleys,wheretheArabshadvillagesandcultivatedlands.TheinhabitantsareofthesamegreattribeofShammarasthosewhowanderovertheplainsofMesopotamia.Suttumtoldmethathisfamilystillpossessedtheirgardensinthehills;andalthough,fromlongabsence,theirproducehadbeengatheredbystrangers,yetthathecouldbylawatanytimereturnandclaimthem.

IbnReshidwasdescribedtomeasapowerful,andforanArab,anenlightenedchief,whohadrestoredsecuritytothecountry,andwho

desiredtoencouragetradeandthepassageofcaravansthroughhisterritories.Hismaresandhorses,collectedfromthetribesofcentralArabia,weredeclaredtoexcelallthoseoftheDesertinbeautyandinblood.Hawkingandhuntingarehisfavoriteamusements,andgameaboundsinthehillsandplains.Amongstthewildanimalsarelions,leopards,deer,andakindofoxorlargeantelope,Icouldnotlearnexactlywhich,calledWothaiyah,saidtohavelongspiralhorns,andtobeexceedinglyfierceanddangerous.

IwasassuredthatintheGebelShammarthereareruinsoflargecities,attributedbytheArabstotheJews.Inscriptionsinanunknowncharacterarealsosaidtoexistonslabsofstoneandonrocks.TheymaybethatclasscalledHimyari,foundinotherpartsoftheArabianpeninsula.

Abouttwohoursandahalf,oreightmilestothenorth-eastofHillah,amound,scarcelyinferiorinsizetothoseofBabylon,risesintheplain.ItiscalledElHymer,meaning,accordingtotheArabs,thered,fromitscolor.Theruinhasassumedapyramidalform,butitisevidentlytheremainsofasolidsquarestructure,consisting,liketheBirsNimroud,ofaseriesofterracesorplatforms.Itmaybeconjectured,therefore,thatitwasasacrededificebuiltuponthesamegeneralplanasallthetemplesofBabyloniaandAssyria.Thebasementorsubstructureappearstohavebeenofsun-driedbrick;theupperpart,andprobablythecasingof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thelower,ofbricksburntinthekiln.ManyofthelatterareinscribedwiththenameandtitlesofNebuchadnezzar.Althoughthemasonryissolidandfirmlyboundtogether,itisnotunitedbyawhitecementlikethatoftheMujelibé.Thesametenaciousmudthatwasusedformakingthebrickshasbeendaubed,asfarasIcouldascertain,betweeneachlayer.TheruinistraversedliketheBirsbysquareholestoadmitair.

Aroundthecentrestructurearescatteredsmallermoundsandheapsofrubbish,coveredwiththeusualfragmentsofpottery,glassandbricks.

OppositetotheMujelibé(orKasr),onthewesternbankoftheEuphrates,isavillagecalledAnana,andnearitaquadrangleofearthenramparts,liketheremainsofafortifiedinclosure.Alargemassofbrickmasonryisstillseenintheriverbedwhenthestreamislow.Theinhabitantsofthevillagebroughtmeafragmentofblackstonewitharosetteornamentuponit,veryAssyrianincharacter.Withtheexceptionoftheseremains,andtheBirsNimroud,therearescarcelyanyruinsofancientbuildingsontheArabiansideoftheEuphrates.

Ontheeasternbanklowmoundscoveredwithbrokenpotteryandglassarefoundinalmosteverydirection.Oneresemblesanother,andthereisnothingeitherintheirappearanceorintheircontents,asfarastheyhavehithertobeenascertained,deservingofparticulardescription.Theyonlyprovehowvastandthrivingthepopulationofthispartof

Mesopotamiamustatonetimehavebeen,andhowcompleteisthedestructionthathasfallenuponthisdevotedland.

CHAPTERXXIV.

RUINSINSOUTHERNMESOPOTAMIA.--DEPARTUREFROMHILLAH.--SAND-HILLS.--VILLAGESINTHEJEZIREH.--SHEIKHKARBOUL.--RUINS.--FIRSTVIEWOFNIFFER.--THEMARSHES.--ARABBOATS.--ARRIVEATSOUK-EL-AFAIJ.--SHEIKHAGAB.--TOWNOFTHEAFAIJ.--DESCRIPTIONOFTHERUINSOFNIFFER.--EXCAVATIONSINTHE

MOUNDS.--DISCOVERYOFCOFFINS.--OFVARIOUSRELICS.--MR.LOFTUS'DISCOVERIESATWURKA.--THEARABTRIBES.--WILDBEASTS.--LIONS.--CUSTOMSOFTHEAFAIJ.--LEAVETHEMARSHES.--RETURNTOBAGHDAD.--AMIRAGE.

ThesouthofMesopotamiaaboundsinextensiveandimportantruins,ofwhichlittleisknown.ThecountryaroundthemisinhabitedbyArabsofthetribesofRubbiyahandAhlMaidan,notoriousfortheirlawlessness,andscarcelymoreintelligentorhumanthanthebuffaloeswhichtheytend.OneortwotravellershavepassedtheseremainsofancientcivilisationwhenjourneyingthroughtheJezireh,orhavereceiveddescriptionsofthemfromnativesofthecountry.Mr.Loftuswasthefirsttoexplorethemostimportant.Beingattached,asgeologist,tothemissionforthesettlement

oftheboundariesbetweenPersiaandTurkey,hewentbylandfromBaghdadtoBusrahtojoinitsothermembers.Ashewasaccompaniedbyanescortoftroopshewasabletovisittheprincipalruinsonthewaywithoutrisk.Hefoundthetribeswell-disposedtowardsEuropeans,thoughveryhostiletotheTurks.Takingadvantageofthisfavorablefeeling,andrelyingupontheprotectionoftheArabSheikhs,Mr.Loftusreturnedasecondtimealone,andwasabletoexcavateinsomeofthelargermounds.HeobtainedduringthisexpeditionthehighlyinterestingcollectionofantiquitiesfromWurka,nowintheBritishMuseum.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


AlltheseruinsarebestreachedfromHillah.TheSheikhsoftheArabtribeslivingnearthemareusuallyinfriendlycommunicationwiththeprincipalpeopleofthattown.Owing,however,tothepresentdisturbedstateofthecountry,IwascompelledtoaskforsafeconductfromAgab,theSheikhoftheAfaij.

TheAfaijdwellinthemidstofextensivemarshesformedbytheEuphrates,aboutfiftymilesbelowHillah.OntheeasternborderoftheseswampsrisethegreatruinsofNiffer,whichIwasfirstdesirousofexamining.Aftersomediscussion,itwasfinallysettledthatweweretogobyland,keepingasmuchaspossibleinthecentreofMesopotamia,andthusavoidingtheneighbourhoodoftheEuphrates,astheArabswerenowcongregatedalongthebanksoftheriver.Zaid,withanAgaylofhisacquaintance,agreedtoaccompanyme.MyownJebourswere,ofcourse,oftheparty.Havinghiredmulesandlaidinaproperstockofprovisions,tools,andpackingcasestoholdanyantiquitiesthatmightbediscovered,webeganourjourneyonWednesday,the15thofJanuary.

Theweatherwasbrightandintenselycold.Theskywascloudless,butabitingnorthwindsweptacrosstheplain.ItwasthemiddleoftheBabylonianwinter,andahardfrostdailywhitenedtheground.WeleftHillahbytheBaghdadgate.TheBairakdarwaswithme,withtherestofmyMosulservants.Myhuntsman,oldSeyyidJasim,wraptupinhisthickArabcloak,borehisfavoritehawkonhiswrist.Hewasfollowed,asusual,by

thegreyhounds.TheJebourswentpartlyonfoot,ridingbyturnsonthebaggagehorses.Mr.HormuzdRassamwaswantingtocompleteourparty.HehadbeenkeptinBaghdadbysevereillnessalmostsinceourarrival,andforthefirsttimeduringmywanderingsinMesopotamiahewasnotwithme.

WefollowedatrackleadingtowardsthecentreoftheMesopotamianDesert.Ourcoursewasnearlydueeast.Aboutsixmilesfromthetownwefoundourselvesamidstmovingsand-hills,extendingfarandwideonallsides.Thefinesandshiftswitheverybreeze,andthewrinkledheapsareliketherippledsurfaceofalake.Whenthefurioussoutherlywindsweepsoverthem,itraisesadensesuffocatingdust,blindingthewayfaringArab,andleavinghimtoperishinthetracklesslabyrinth.

Afterfourhours'rideweleftthesand-heaps,andagaincameinsightoftheblackbeltofpalmtrees.AfterstoppingtodrinkwaterweproceededtoasmallhamletcalledAllak,andtookupourquartersforthenightinthemuseefofitsSheikh,who,notwithstandinghispoverty,receivedusveryhospitably.Herelatedtomehowfromthenumerousartificialmoundsinthesurroundingplainswerefrequentlytaken,afterrainhadwashedawaythesoil,earthenjarsandcoffinscontainingornamentsofgoldandsilver.

Aswecontinuedourjourneyduringthefollowingday,stillkeepingintheDesert,wepassedoneortwosmallencampmentsoftheZobeidetribe.TheArabs,alarmedattheapproachofsolargeaparty,andbelievingustobehorsemenonaforay,salliedforthtomeetusatsomedistancefromtheir

tents,flourishingtheirweaponsandchantingtheirwildwar-cry.Theplain,althoughnowwithoutanystationarypopulation,wasoncethicklyinhabited.Thelion,thehyena,thewolf,thejackal,thewildboar,thefox,andtheporcupinenowalonebreakthesolitudeofawildernessoncetheseatofthemostluxuriousandcivilisednationoftheEast.

Itwouldbeneedlesstodescribethefewdesertedvillageswepassedduringourday'sjourney;theirmudwalls,onceaprotectionagainstthewanderingArab,areunabletoresisttheencroachingsand,whichhasalreadyoverwhelmedtheemptydwellings.Inthisregionthehabitationsof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


menareturnedalmostinadaytomereheapsofearth.ThedistrictiscalledShomali.

Afterarideofsixhourswereachedanancientmoundofconsiderablesize,calledHaroun.OnitssummitwasaruinedImaum-zadeh(Mussulmanoratory).ItwasasacredplacetotheArab,andonthisaccounthadbeenusedasaburying-place.ThegraveofthewanderingArabisrarelyfarbeneaththesurfaceofthesoil,andthewildbeastsoftheDesertsoonscrapeawaythescantyearth.Humanskullsandremains,scarcelyyetbleachedbythesun,werescatteredovertheruins,mingledwithbricks,pottery,brokenglass,andotherrelicsofancientpopulation.

WehadscarcelypassedHarounwhenapartyofArabsonhorsebackandonfootsuddenlycameforthfrombehindtheloftybanksofadrycanal.Theyhadseenourcaravanfromafar,andhadwaylaidus.Aftertheyhadfollowedusforsomedistancetheyturnedbacktotheirtribe,deemingitprudentnottoventureanattack,aswewerefullypreparedforthem.

Shortlyaftertheirdeparture,agazellerosefromathicket,andboundedacrosstheplain.SeyyidJasimunloosedhishawk,andIpursuedwiththedogs.ThesightofhorsemengallopingtoandfroalarmedanArabsettlementgatheredroundasmallmudfortbelongingtoachiefcalledKarboul.Themenarmedthemselvesandcameoutagainstus.OurAfaijguides,however,soonmadethemselvesknowntothem,andtheythen

escortedourcaravantotheirtents,dancingawilddance,shoutingtheirwar-cries,singingwar-songs,andfiringtheirmatchlocks.Mostofthemhadnootherclothingthantheshirttakenofftheirshouldersandtiedroundtheirloins.Theircountenancesweresingularlyferocious,theirbrighteyesandwhiteteethmakingthemevenmorehideous.Longblackmattedhairwasscatteredovertheirheadsinhorridconfusion,andtheirbodiesweretannedbytheburningsuntothecolorandsubstanceofoldleather.

TheirSheikh,Karboul,wasscarcelylesssavageinhisappearance,thoughsomewhatbetterclothed.Howeverill-disposedhemighthavebeentowardsEuropeans,ortravellersingeneral,heacknowledgedtheprotectionthathadbeenextendedtousbytheAfaijchief,andledmewithwordsof

welcometohisspacioustent.Hisfollowers,excitedbythelatealarm,andnowfullofwarlikeenthusiasm,werenot,however,tobedismisseduntiltheyhadsatisfiedthemselvesbyperformingvariouswarlikedances.Theydidsoincirclesbeforethetent,raisingafewtatteredflags,anddeafeningmebytheirshoutsandbarbaroussongs.

Thesewildbeings,littlebetterthanmerebeasts,livedinhovelsmadeofmatsandbrushwood.Theyfedlargeherdsofbuffaloes;butthegreaterpartoftheirsheepandcattlehadbeendrivenawaybytheBedouins.TheirtribewastheShabaneh,abranchoftheAhlUkra.

NextmorningKarboulsenthissonandapartyofhorsementoescortusforsomedistanceonourroad.Wehadtomakeaconsiderablecircuittothe

easttoencompassthemarsh,whichhasnowspreadoverthelowerpartoftheMesopotamianplain.Wepassednumerousartificialmounds,coveredwithfragmentsofbricks,pottery,glazedtiles,richly-coloredglassandotherrelicsthatmarkthesiteofBabylonianruins.Canals,too,nolongerfedbytheEuphrates,everywherecrossedourpath,andlimitedourview.Theparchedsoiloutsidetheswamphasbecomefinesand,amidstwhichsmalltuftsofthehardytamariskformtheonlyvegetation.

Aftertwohours'ride,weemergedfromthelabyrinthofdrycanals,andascendingaheapofrubbishcoveringsomeancientruin,webeheld,looming

7/31/2019 Ninevah


onthehorizonlikeadistantmountain,theprincipalobjectofmyjourney--themoundsofNiffer.Theywerestillnearlytenmilesfromus.MagnifiedastheywerebythemiragetheyappearedfartoexceedinsizeandheightanyartificialelevationthatIhadhithertoseen.

Totheeastofusroseanothergreatruin,calledZibbliyah,alofty,squaremass,apparentlyofsundriedbrick.Itresembledinform,andwasscarcelylessinsizethanthewell-knownremainsofAkkerkuf,nearBaghdad.

BetweenusandNifferwerestillmanymoundsandancientcanals.Thelargestoftheformer,coveredwithbricksandpottery,wascalledbyourArabguidesElHamra,"thered."Theprincipalcanal,whosewatershadoncebeenconfinedbetweentwoenormousembankments,raninadirectlinetowardstheruins.Itisnowdry,butappearstohaveoncesuppliedthecity.

AfterajourneyoffivehourswereachedtheruinsofNiffer.TheydifferingeneralformfromthegreatmoundsofAssyria,withwhichmydescriptionsmayhavefamiliarisedthereader.Althoughattheirnorth-eastcornerisaconesimilartothoseofNimroudandKalah-Sherghat,yet,intheirbrokenoutlineandintheirdivisionintoseveraldistinctparts,theyhavemoretheappearanceoftheremainsofdifferentbuildingsthanthatofoneregularplatformsurroundedbywalls.

InthisrespecttheyarenotunliketheMujelibé(Kasr)andtheAmranofBabylon.Themoundscoveraltogetheraveryconsiderableareaofground,andstandontheedgeofthemarsh,whichisgraduallyencroachinguponthem,andwhichoccasionallyduringhighfloodsoftheEuphratescompletelysurroundsthem.Theyarestrewedwiththeusualfragmentsofbrick,glazedandunglazedpottery,andglass.Aloosenitroussoil,intowhichthefeetsinkabovetheankles,formsacoatingaboutayarddeepoveraharderandmorecompactsoil.Intheravineslargeearthenjarsandportionsofbrickmasonryareoccasionallyuncoveredbytherains.Commencingmysearchafterantiquitiesassoonaswehadreachedthesummitoftheprincipalmound,itwasnotlongbeforeIdiscovered,inoneofthesenewly-formedruts,aperfectvase,aboutfivefeethigh,containinghumanremains.Otherobjectsofthesamekindwerefoundbythe

Arabswhowerewithme.ButIleftmorecarefulresearchestothetimewhenIcouldcommenceexcavationsbelowthesurface.Leaving,therefore,theruins,Ihastenedtotheplacewheremytentswerepitchedabouttwomilesbeyondtheruinsonthemarginofthemarsh.Infrontoftheencampmentwasasmalllakeorpond,fromwhichthereedsseemedtohavebeencarefullycleared.

WehadsentoneofourAfaijguidestoinformSheikhAgabofourapproach.Ihadnotbeenlongseatedinmytentwhensuddenlyanumberofblackboats,eachbearingapartyofArabs,dartedfromthereedsandapproachedtheshore.Theywereofvarioussizes.Inthebottomofsome,eightortenpersonssatcrouchedontheirhams;inothers,onlyoneortwo.Menstandingattheheadandsternwithlongbamboopolesofgreatlightness

guidedandimpelledthem.Thelargestwerebuiltofteakwood,buttheothersconsistedsimplyofaverynarrowframe-workofrushescoveredwithbitumen,resemblingprobably"thevesselsofbulrushes"mentionedbyIsaiah.[228]Theyskimmedoverthesurfaceofthewaterwithgreatrapidity.

Thetiradas,forsotheseboatsarecalledbytheArabs,drewupalongthebankintheopenbasinbeforeourtents.Thelargestevidentlycontainedthreechiefs,wholandedandadvancedtowardsme.TheywerethesonsoftheSheikhoftheAfaij.Theirfatherhadsentthemtowelcomemetohis

7/31/2019 Ninevah


territories.Theybroughtwiththemprovisionsformycaravan,astheirvillage,theysaid,wasstillfardistant,anditwouldbeimpossibletotransportourbaggageandleadourhorsesthitherbeforenightfall.Theyoungmenwerehandsome,well-dressedandwell-armed,andverycourteous.ThecomplexionofthesemarshArabs,fromconstantexposuretotheintenseheatofthesun,isalmostblack,withtheusualcontrastofeyesofextraordinarybrilliancy,andteethofthewhitenessofpearls.Theyweartheirhairinlong,well-greasedplaits.

TheyoungSheikhshadbeenorderedbytheirfathertoremainwithmeduringthenight,andtoplaceaproperguardroundthetents,astheoutskirtsofthemarshwereinfested,wewereassured,byrovingBedouinsandmidnightthieves.Igained,asothertravellershaddonebeforeme,somecreditforwisdomandsuperhumanknowledgebypredicting,throughtheaidofanalmanack,apartialeclipseofthemoon.Itdulytookplacetothegreatdismayofmyguests,whowellnighknockedoutthebottomsofallmykitchenutensilsintheirendeavortofrightenawaytheJinswhohadthuslaidholdoftheplanet.[229]

SoonaftersunrisetheSheikh'sowntiradaissuedfromthereedsintotheopenspace.Ithadbeenspreadwithcarpetsandsilkencushionsformyreception.Thebaggagewasplacedinotherboats,buttheunfortunatehorses,undertheguidanceofapartyofnakedArabs,hadtoswimthestream,andtostrugglethroughtheswampastheybestcould.Thearmed

menenteredtheirvariousvessels,andwealllefttheshoretogether.ThetiradainwhichIsatwasskilfullymanagedbytwoArabswithlongbamboopoles.Itskimmedrapidlyoverthesmalllake,andthenturnedintoabroadstreetcutthroughgreenreedsrisingfourteenorfifteenfeetonbothsidesofus.Thecurrent,wherethevegetationhadthusbeenclearedaway,ranattherateofabouttwomilesanhour,and,asweweregoingtowardstheEuphrates,wasagainstus.Wepassedtheentrancestomanylanesbranchingofftotherightandtotheleft.FromthemcameblackboatsfilledwithArabmenandwomencarryingtheproduceoftheirbuffaloherdstotheSoukormarket.

Herdsofbuffaloeshereandtherestruggledandsplashedamongstthe

rushes,theirunwieldybodiescompletelyconcealedunderwater,andtheirhideousheadsjustvisibleuponthesurface.Occasionallyasmallplotofground,scarcelyaninchabovethelevelofthemarsh,anditselfhalfaswamp,wascoveredwithhutsbuiltofreeds,canes,andbrightyellowmats.ThesewerethedwellingsoftheAfaij,and,aswepassedby,troopsofhalf-nakedmen,women,andchildrenissuedfromthem,andstoodonthebanktogazeatthestrangers.

Thelanesnowbecamemorecrowdedwithtiradas.Theboatmen,however,dartedbytheheaviervessels,turnedthesharpcorners,andmanagedtheirfrailbarkswithgreatskillandease.Theopeningsinthereedsbegantobemorenumerous,anditrequiredaperfectknowledgeofthevariouswindingsandstreetstofollowtherightway.Thissingularscenerecalled

vividlytomymindthesculpturesofKouyunjikrepresentingtheAssyrianwarsinmarshesofthesamenature,andprobablyformedbythewatersofthesameriver.Thestreetsthroughthereeds,andthetiradasorboatsofrushessmearedwithbitumen,arefaithfullydelineatedinthebas-reliefs,showinghowlittlethebarbarousinhabitantsofthesegreatswampshavechangedafterthelapseofnearlythreethousandyears.Ifwemayjudge,however,fromthespoiloffurnitureandofvesselsofmetal,probablyofgoldandsilver,carriedawayfromthembytheconquerors,theancienttribesappeartohavebeenmorewealthyandmoreingeniousthantheirdescendants.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Soonafterenteringanarrowcanal,westoppednearsomelargerandbetterbuilthutsthananywehadyetseen.Beforethem,atthewater'sedge,andwaitingtoreceiveus,weredrawnupanumberofarmedmen,attheheadofwhomstoodatall,handsomeArab.HewasattiredinalongrobeofscarletsilkofDamascus,overwhichheworeoneofthosecloaksrichlyembroideredingoldthreaddownthebackandonearm,peculiartoBaghdad.ThiswasAgab,SheikhoftheAfaij.AsIsteppedoutofthetiradahethrewhisarmsroundmyneck,andgavemetheusualembraceofwelcome.

Thechiefledusatoncetothemuseef.Theguesthousewasbuiltofthesamematerialsasthesmallercabins,buttheywerefarmoretastefullyputtogether.Itresembledinshapetheboilerofsomeenormoussteam-engine.Reedsboundtogether,werebentintoarchesatregularintervals,andformedaseriesofribs,uponwhichwerestretchedthechoicestmats.Aboutfiftypersonscouldconvenientlysitinthishut.Inthecentrewastheusualarrayofbrightpotsandtinycupsrangedincirculartrays,roundasmoulderingfire.Ahideousblackslave,crouchinguponhishaunches,wasroastingcoffeeandpoundingthefragrantbeansinanironmortar.Downbothsideswerespreadcarpetsandmats;softcushionsoffiguredsilkwerespeciallypreparedfortheEuropeanguest.

Themuseefstoodatashortdistancefromtheotherhuts,andinacornerformedbytwowater-streetsbranchingoffatrightangles.Infrontofit

wastheharemoftheSheikh.Itconsistedofseveralcabinsinanenclosureformedentirelybywallsofreedsandmats.Beyondwasagreatcollectionofhuts,andinthemiddleofthemthebazars,consistingofdoublerowsofshops,allofthesamefrailmaterials.SothatthisArabtownwasbuiltentirelyofmatsandreeds.

Agabreceivedmeinthemostfriendlymanner,andenteredatonceintomyplansforexcavating,describingtheruinsexistingintheneighbourhood.HeorderedhispeopletoraiseahutformyservantsandtheJebourworkmen,andtopitchmytentsintheopenspaceoppositethemuseef.Buildingisnotalengthyordifficultprocesswherethematerialsaresosimple.Withinanhourthematshadbeendraggedfromtheharem,thebundlesofreedsturnedintogracefularches,andthecabindulycovered

in.Asadwelling-place,however,thesmallislandonwhichtheSheikhoftheAfaijhadthoughtfittoerecthismoveablecapitalwasnotperhapsthemostdesirableintheworld.HadtheEuphratesrisenbyanysuddenfloodweshouldhavebeencompletelyunderwater.MypropositiontoencamponthemoundsofNifferwasnegativedbyAgab,onaccountofthedangersfromtheBedouins,evilspirits,beastsofprey,andthelike.SoImadeupmymindtoremainattheSouk.

TheSheikhbelievingIwasinsearchofgold,wasalwaysmyattendantwithhisfollowers.HeknewsomanyauthenticinstancesofenormouswealthhavingbeendugupatNiffer,thatitwasuselesstoarguewithhimuponthesubject.HerelatedtomeintheusualexpressivemanneroftheArabs,thefollowingstory:--InthetimeofHatab,theuncleofWadi,Sheikhof

theZobeide,acameleerofthattribechancedtobeatDamascuswithhiscamels.Ashewaswalkingonedayinthebazar,anagedmanaccostedhim."OSheikhoftheCaravan,"saidhe,"IknowthatthouartfromthesouthernJezireh,andfromthelandoftheZobeide.Godbepraisedforsendingtheetome!Nowthereisinthatcountryagreatmound,thatmarksthesiteofanancientcityoftheUnbelievers,calledNiffer.Go,diginthedrybedoftheShat-el-Neel,inthemidstoftheruins,andthouwiltfindastonewhiteasmilk;bringittome,andthoushalthaveforarewarddoubletheusualhireforthycamelsboththereandback."Thecameleerwasatalosstoguesshowtheoldmanknewofthestone,buthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


didashehadbeenasked,andintheplacedescribedtohimhefoundthewhitestone,whichwasjustacamel'sburden.HetookittoDamascus,andgaveittotheSheikh,whofirstpaidhimhisjustreward,andthenbrokethestoneintopiecesbeforehim.Itwas,ofcourse,fullofgold,andthephilosopherhadlearnedwhereitwastobefoundinthebooksoftheInfidels.

BeingthuscompelledtoremainattheSouk,IfittedupmytentandcabinsaswellasIwasable.Theweatherwasintenselycold,anditwasthemiddleoftherainyseason.Bythehelpofmatswewereabletokeepoutthewatertoacertainextent.Theexcavationswerecarriedonuntilthe3rdofFebruary,andIwilldescribeatoncetheirgeneralresults.

Niffer,asIhavealreadyobserved,consistsratherofacollectionofmoundsofunequalheight,andirregularform,thanofonecompactplatform,liketheprincipalruinsofAssyria.Theymaybedividedintofourdistinctgroups,eachsurrounded,andseparatedfromtheothers,bydeepravines,whichhavetheappearanceofancientstreets.Thehighconeatthenorth-eastcornerisprobablytheremainsofasquaretowerconstructedentirelyoflargesundriedbricks.Beneaththeconemasonryofsundriedandkiln-burntbricksprotrudesfromthesidesoftheravines.ThebricksaregenerallysmallerindimensionsthanthosefromBabylon,andlongandnarrowinshape.ManyofthemarestampedwithinscriptionsintheBabyloniancharacter,containingthenameofakingandofthe

city.Myworkmenweredividedintogangs,orkarkhanehs,astheyarecalledbytheArabs,andwereplacedindifferentpartsoftheruins.Onthefirstdaysomecellsorrecessescontaininghumanremainswerediscovered.

Duringthetwosubsequentdayswefoundmanyvasesandjarsofearthenware,someglazedandothersplain.Withtheserelicswasabowl,unfortunatelymuchbroken,coveredwithancientHebrewcharacters,similartothosediscoveredatBabylon.Fragmentsofsimilarvesselswereafterwardsdugoutoftheruins.

OnthemoundofNiffer,asonotherruinsofthesameperiodinthispart

ofMesopotamia,arefoundnumerousfragmentsofhighly-glazedpottery,ofarichbluecolor,butverycoarseandfragileintexture.Iwasatalosstoconjecturethenatureoftheobjectsofwhichtheyhadoriginallyformedpart,until,onthefourthdayoftheexcavations,apartyofworkmenuncoveredacoffinorsarcophagus,ofpreciselythesamematerial.Withinitwerehumanremains,whichcrumbledtodustalmostassoonasexposedtotheair.Theearthenwarewassoill-burnt,andhadsufferedsomuchfromage,thatIwasunabletoremovethiscoffinentire.ItfelltopiecesassoonasIendeavoredtodetachitfromthesoilbywhichitwassurrounded.Butbeneathitwasfoundasecond,andsubsequentlyscarcelyadayelapsedwithoutthediscoveryoffourorfivesimilarcoffins.Thelargestwereaboutsixfeetlong;some,containingtheremainsofchildren,scarcelyexceededthree.Theywereallofnearlythesameshape;

anoval,abouttwofeetwide,fortheheadandshouldersofthecorpse,joinedtoanarrowboxforthelegsandfeet.Theovalwasclosedbyadetachedflatlid;therestofthecoffinwascovered,andtherewasasmallholeattheveryend.Thebodymust,consequently,havebeenforcedintothesarcophagusfromthetoporopenpart.

Allthesecoffinswerecoveredwithbrightgreenish,blueglaze-coloredwithcopper,likethatonpotteryandbricksfromtheruinsofBabylon.Somewereornamentedwithscrollworkandotherdesigns;others,withrudefiguresofmenandanimalsinrelief.Theywereallofthesamefragile

7/31/2019 Ninevah


material.Theclay,moreover,havingbeenonlypartiallyburnt,hadbeenexposedtotheactionofthenitresoabundantinthesoil.Withoutconsiderablecareitwasimpossibletoremoveanyentire,althoughthesurroundingearthwaseasilydetachedfromthem.

Humanremains,moreorlessperfect,werefoundinallthesesarcophagi.Sometimes,asthelidwascarefullyremoved,Icouldalmostdistinguishthebody,wrappedinitsgraveclothes,andstilllyinginitsnarrowresting-place.Butnosoonerdidtheouterairreachtheemptycrustofhumanitythanitfellawayintodust,leavingonlytheskullandgreatbonesofthearmsandlegstoshowwhatthesenowemptycaseshadoncecontained.Oneortwosmallcupsorvasesinthesameglazedpottery,andafewbeadsandengravedgems,wereoccasionallygatheredfromthecrumblingremains;butnoornamentsofgoldorsilverwerediscoveredatNiffer,thoughitappearsthattheArabsfrequentlyfindtheminsimilarcoffinsfromotherruinsinsouthernMesopotamia.Itisremarkable,however,thattherewerenoornamentswhateverinmetalinnearlyahundredcoffinswhichIopenedatNiffer.

Itisimpossibletoestimatethenumberoftheseearthencoffins;theupperpartofthemoundinsomeplacesappearedtoconsistalmostentirelyofthem.Theygenerallyrestedoneupontheother,butinsomecaseswereseparatedbyalayerofflatbricksortiles.Asfastasthefragmentsofonewereremovedasecondappearedbeneathit;andnotwithstandingthe

numberthustakenaway,Ididnotpenetratemanyfeetbeneaththesurface.InthelowerpartofMesopotamiaaremanyruinsinwhichsimilarremainsareequallyabundant.Fragmentsofglazedpottery,brokenfromthem,areseenoneveryancientsitetothesouthofBabylon.AccordingtoMr.Loftus,thevastmoundofWurkaisbuiltalmostentirelyofsuchcoffins,piledoneabovetheother,andconsequentlymanythousands,orratherhundredsofthousandsmustexistinitalone.

Itisdifficulttoarriveataverysatisfactoryconclusionastotheprecisedateoftheseremains.Myownimpressionisthattheyarecomparativelymodern;thatis,thattheyaretobeattributedtoaperiodsubsequenttothefalloftheBabylonianempire,extendingfromthesecondorfirstcenturybeforetheChristianeratoeventhetimeofthe

Arabinvasion.ColonelRawlinsonentertains,Ibelieve,adifferentopinion,andwouldattributethemtoamuchearlierperiod.IfthegreatmoundsofNifferbetheremainsofaBabyloniancity,astheyprobablyare,itisevidentthatthatcitymusthavebeencompletelydestroyed,anditsruinscoveredwithearthlongbeforeapeople,afterwardsinhabitingthecountry,couldhaveburiedtheirdeadabovethem.

Inonepartofthemound,inakindofrecessorsmallchamberofbrickmasonry,wasdiscoveredaheapofpotteryofayellowcolor,verythinandfragile,muchresemblingthatstillmadeatBaghdadtoholdwaterinhotweather.Manyvasesandcupswerestillentire.Withthemwerefragmentsofglassbottles,jars,andothervessels;andseveralhighlyglazedorenamelleddishes.Theserelicsappearedtobeofthesameperiodasthe

sarcophagi.Alargenumberofcoarsejarsorurns,somenearlysixfeethigh,weredugoutofvariouspartsofthemound.Theycontainedbonesofmenandanimals,andtheirmouthshadbeencarefullyclosedbyatileorbrickplasteredwithbitumen.

Althoughmanydeeptrencheswereopenedintheruins,andintheconicalmoundatthenorth-eastcorner,nootherremainsorrelicswerediscovered.Withtheexceptionofafewmassivefoundations,andthebricksbearingacuneiformsuperscription,ImuchdoubtwhetheranythingfoundatNifferwasofthetrueBabylonianperiod.TheArabshaveastory

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thatagreatblackstoneexistssomewhereintheruins.IhadonceconjecturedthatitmightbetheidenticalobelisksaidtohavebeenbroughtbySemiramisfromArmeniatoBabylon.[230]AfterIhadsearchedinvainforit,IwasassuredthatitwasnearsomemoundsseveralmilestotheeastofNiffer.Isentapartyofworkmentothespot,butwithnobettersuccess.Onthewhole,IammuchinclinedtoquestionwhetherextensiveexcavationscarriedonatNifferwouldproduceanyveryimportantorinterestingresults.

IntheAfaijbazarIwasabletopurchaseafewrelicsfromtheArabs;theyconsistedchieflyofcylindersandengravedgems.ButevensuchremainswerefarmorescarcethanIhadanticipated.Araminbakedclay,withthreeholesforholdingcolorsorointments,apparentlyBabylonian,andapebbleofwhitemarble,onwhicharerudelyengravedtwogoatsbeforethesacredtree,andafewcuneiformcharacters,werebroughttomefromsomeneighboringruin.SuchwerealltheantiquitiesIobtainedduringmyvisittoNiffer.WiththepotterycollectedatthemoundtheyarenowintheBritishMuseum.

OneofmyprincipalobjectsinjourneyingintothesewildtractsofsouthernMesopotamia,wastovisitandexplorethegreatmoundofWurka.Theseremainshadalreadybeenpartlyexamined,asIhavestated,byMr.Loftus.Ahighlyinterestingcollectionofrelics,comprisinginscribedclaytablets,glazedpottery,ornamentsinmetal,andengravedgems,had

beenobtainedbythatgentlemanduringhisshortresidenceamongtheruins.TheyarenowintheBritishMuseum.Amongstthem,anddeservingparticularnotice,arethefragmentsofashell,onwhichareengravedtheheadsoftwohorses,apparentlypartofasubjectrepresentingawarriorinhischariot.Theoutlineuponthemisnotwithoutspirit,buttheyareprincipallyremarkableforbeingalmostidenticalwithasimilarengravedshellfoundinanEtruscantomb,andnowintheBritishMuseum.Thisisnottheonlyinstance,asithasbeenseen,ofrelicsfromAssyriaandEtruriabeingofthesamecharacter,--showingacloseconnectionbetweenthetwocountrieseitherdirect,orbymutualintercoursewithsomeintermediatenation.

Unfortunatelythestateofthecountrytothesouthofthemarsheswas

suchthatIwasunableeventomakeanattempttoreachtheremarkableruinsofWurka.ThegreatArabtribeofMontefik,dwellingonthebanksofthelowerEuphrates,andexercisingacertaincontroloverallthesmallertribesinhabitingthesouthernpartofMesopotamia,wassplitintooppositefactionsonaccountoftherivalpretensionsoftwochiefs.Muchbloodhadalreadybeenspilt,andthewarwasnowextendingtotheAfaij.ThesurroundingtribestakingadvantageofthegeneralconfusionandoftheunsuccessfulattemptofthePashatosubduetheMaidanArabs,hadopenlyrebelledagainstthegovernment,andwerelayingwastetheprovinceandplunderingeachother.Itwas,indeed,scarcelypossibleeventoleavetheAfaijterritory,andAgab,who,likeallotherArabSheikhs,wasnotwithouthisrival,begantofearanoutbreakamongsthisownpeople.HehadalreadybeensummonedtotakepartinthewarbetweenthetwoMontefik

chiefs,andhewasanxiousthatIshouldbeonsafegroundbeforehistroublescommenced.He,therefore,seriouslyurgedmetoreturntoBaghdad.

TheSheikh,withotherchiefsofhistribe,wasaccustomedtopasstheeveninginmytent.Hewouldonthoseoccasionsdescribetheunsettledanddangerousstateofthecountry,andlamenttheinsecuritycausedbythemisruleoftheTurkishauthorities.

Atthesametimehewouldentertainmewithaccountsofthedistrictsto

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thesouthoftheAfaij,theirproductions,andthemannersofthecuriouspopulationsinhabitingthosevastmarshes.

ThegreaterpartofthecountrybelowancientBabylonhasnowbeenforcenturiesonegreatswamp.Itis,indeed,whattheprophetforetolditshouldbe,"adesertofthesea."[231]Theembankmentsoftherivers,utterlyneglected,havebrokenaway,andthewatershavespreadoverthefaceoftheland.ThebestknownofthesemarshesaretheLemlud,formedbytheEuphratesaboveitsconfluencewiththeTigrisatKorna.Buttheynowonlyformapartofthosewhichareyearlyincreasing,andthreatentocoverthewholeofsouthernMesopotamia.

TheArabtribesinhabitingthemare,asIhavealreadyobserved,amongstthemostwildandignorantthatcanbefoundinthispartofAsia.TherelationsbetweenthemandthePortehavegenerallyconsistedoflittlemorethanatrialoftreacheryanddeceit;and,whilsttheTurklooksupontheseArabsasmerewildbeasts,theyinreturnhavelostallconfidenceinthefaithandhonoroftheOttomangovernment.ButitisnotsowithrespecttotheEnglish,whohavealwaystreatedthemhonorablyandkindly,andwhomconsequentlytheyhaveallowedtopasstoandfrowithoutharm.ThisrespectfortheBritishnameismainlytobeattributedtotheadmirableconductandmanagementofCaptainJonesduringthetimehehascommandedthesteamerontheTigris.

TheseArabsareoftheSheeahsectofMussulmans,andbelongtothegreattribesofRubbiyahandAhlMaidan.Eachtribehasinnumerablesubdivisions,withdistinctnamesandseparateandindependentSheikhs.Theyliveinmathutsandinsmallblacktents.Theirchiefwealthconsistsinvastherdsofbuffaloes,andtheyare,onthewhole,notwithstandingthewretchedappearanceoftheirdwellingsandthescantyclothingofbothmenandwomen,richerthanmostArabtribes.Thisistobeattributedtotheirhavinghithertobeenable,intheiralmostinaccessibleretreats,todefytheTurkishauthorities.

Theirbuffaloessupplythemwithlargequantitiesofbutterandmilk;theformerisexported,andisaconsiderablearticleoftrade.Thesehideousanimalsappeartothriveinthemarshylands,andsomedistrictsactually

swarmwiththem.Theyaregenerallyinoffensiveandeasilymanaged.

Thesetribeshavealsoflocksofsheepandgoats,buttheanimalsaresmall,andtheirwoolthin,andgenerallytoocoarsetoformanarticleofcommerce.Theyraiseverylittlecornandbarley;rice,ofaninferiorquality,formstheirprincipalfood.

Themarshesandthejunglesneartheriversaretheretreatsofmanykindsofwildanimals.Lionsabound.Ihaveseenthemfrequently,andduringtheexcavationsatNifferwefoundfreshtracesoftheirfootstepsalmostdailyamongsttheruins.TheMaidanArabsboastofcapturingtheminthefollowingmanner,andtrustworthypersonshaveassuredmethattheyhaveseenthefeatperformed.Aman,havingboundhisrightarmwithstripsof

tamarisk,andholdinginhishandastrongpieceofthesamewood,aboutafootormoreinlength,hardenedinthefireandsharpenedatbothends,willadvanceboldlyintotheanimal'slair.Whenthelionspringsuponhim,heforcesthewoodintotheanimal'sextendedjaws,whichwillthenbeheldopenwhilsthecandispatchtheastonishedbeastathisleisurewiththepistolthatheholdsinhislefthand.

Inthejunglesarealsofoundleopards,lynxes,wildcats,wolves,hyenas,jackals,deer,porcupines,boarsinvastnumbers,andotheranimals.Wildfowl,cranes,andbustardsabound,andthatbeautifulgame-birdthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


francolin,orblackpartridge,swarmsinthelowbrushwood.TheArabsshootthemwithball.Themarshesarefulloffish,whichattainaconsiderablesize.Theyarechiefly,Ibelieve,akindofbarbel.Theirfleshiscoarseandfullofbones,buttheyaffordtheArabsaconstantsupplyoffood.Theyaregenerallytakenbythespear.

AlthoughtheinhabitantsofthemarshesrecognisesomeofthelawsoftheBedouins,theyarewantinginmanyofthevirtuesoftheArabsoftheDesert.Theyhave,however,severalcustomsrelatingtothedutiesofhospitality,whicharerigidlyadheredto.TosayofaMaidan"thathehassoldbread,"istoofferhimthegreatestofinsults.Topartwithaloafformoneyisaccountedanactbringingdisgracenotonlyupontheperpetrator,butuponhiswholefamily.IfoundthispeculiarcustomexceedinglyinconvenientduringmyresidenceamongsttheAfaij.SheikhAgabinsistedupongivingdailytomylargepartytheirsuppliesofbread;anditwasimpossibletoobtainitinanyothermanner.Evenitssaleinthepublicmarketwasforbidden.Iwas,atlength,compelledtosendtoaconsiderabledistanceforflour,andthentoemploymyownworkmeninbakingit.Thesamescruplesdonotexistwithregardtootherarticlesoffood.Theyaresoldinthebazar,asinallEasterntowns.

Inthesoukorbazar,oftheAfaijtribe,wereexposedforsaleafewcommonManchesterprints--thoseworld-wideevidencesoftheextentofBritishtrade--Englishstuffs(printedanddyedatBaghdadcalled

tangebs),keffiehs,Damascussilks,stripedabas,dates,rice,coffee,spices,powderandarms,theusualstoresofanEasternmarket.AfewChristianjewellersfashiongoldandsilverornamentsforthewomen,andanoccasionalpedlarfromHillahorBaghdadexcitestheadmirationoftheArabsbythedisplayofastockofcoarseknives,andcommonEuropeanhardware.

Thedampnessofthesoiluponwhichmytentwaspitched,andtheunwholesomeairofthesurroundingmarshes,broughtonasevereattackofpleurisyandfever.Iwassoonunabletomovefrommybed,andwasreducedatlengthtoastateofextremeweakness.Fortunatelyitoccurredtometouseablisteringfluidgiventomeforaninjuredhorse,orIshouldprobablynotagainhavelefttheAfaijswamps.Notwithstandingthe

severityoftheremedyitgavemeimmediaterelief,andwhenHormuzdjoinedmeonthe28thofJanuary,Iresolvedtomakeanattempt,withoutfurtherdelay,toreachBaghdad,whereIcouldobtainmedicalaid.Toaddtoourmisfortunes,therainfellinunceasingtorrentsforfourdays,andofcoursesoonmadeitswaythroughourtents.Thewatersofthemarshbegantoriseperceptibly,andtheAfaijwerepreparingtoabandontheirmathuts,andtoseek,intheirlighttiradas,asaferretreat.

Somedayselapsed,however,beforeIcouldrisefrommycarpet.Thestateofaffairswasdailygettingworse.AbdePashahadbeensuddenlydeprivedofhisgovernmentbythePorteonaccountofthefailureofhisexpeditionagainsttheKazailArabs,andhisfallhadincreasedthegeneralanarchy.Itwasonlybyjoiningalargepartyofhorsemenontheirwaytotheseat

ofwarinthesouththatHormuzdhadbeenabletoreachNiffer.IfoundthatitwasquiteimpossibletopenetratefurtherintoMesopotamia,andthatbyremainingmuchlongeramongsttheAfaijwerantheriskofbeingcutofffromBaghdadaltogether.Idetermined,therefore,tostrikeoncemoreintotheDesert,wherewewerelesslikelytomeetwithhostileArabsthaninthebeatentracks,andtomakeaforcedmarchtosomevillageintheneighbourhoodofHillah.

FortunatelyIhadmyownridinghorsewithme,andhiseasypacesenabledmetoundertakethejourneyalthoughinastateofcompleteexhaustion.On

7/31/2019 Ninevah


the2dofFebruary,ItookleaveofAgab,andpitchedmytentsforthenightbeneaththemoundsofNiffer.BeforedawnonthefollowingmorningwewereurgingourhorsesoverthedesertplainsofthecentreofMesopotamia.TwoarmedadherentsoftheSheikhwerewithus,rathertoactasguidesthantoprotectusfromenemies.WetravelledwithoutanycauseforalarmasfarasthegreatruinofZibbliyah.Alargebodyofhorsementhensuddenlyappearedinthedistance.Weascendedthemound,andpreparedtodefendourselvesfromthiselevatedposition.ButeithertheArabsdidnotperceiveus,orwerebentuponsomewarlikeexpeditionwhichdidnotadmitofdelay,fortheypassedonwards,andleftustocontinueourjourney.

ZibbliyahcloselyresemblesthecelebratedruinofAkkerkufnearBaghdad.ItrisesfromaheapofrubbishinthecentreoftheDesert,andconsistsofasolidmassoflarge,crumbling,sundriedbricks,betweenthecoursesofwhich,atcertainintervals,arelayersofreedsasinmanyoftheBabylonianbuildings.

Wesawnohumanhabitationuntillongafternightfall,whenwereachedthesmallArabhamletofBashayi.Itwassurrounded,fordefence,byalowmudwall,andsometimewasspentinaparleyandexplanationbeforethetimidinhabitantswouldopentheirgatestosolargeacompanyofstrangers.Icouldhardlyremaininmysaddleuntiltheirfearsweresetatrest,andwewereadmittedwithintheinclosure.AtlengthItotteredintoahovel,

thickwithsmoke,andsankdownexhausted,afterarideoffourteenhoursandafortnight'scompleteabstinencefromfood.

MypoorJebourworkmenbeingonfoothadbeenunabletokeepupwiththecaravanduringourforcedmarch.Theydidnotreachthevillageuntildaybreak,andtheninaverysorryplight,fortheywerestripttotheskin.Theyhadapproached,insearchofwater,thetentsofsomeArabs,andfallinginwithaplunderingpartyhadbeenrobbedofeverything,andleftnakedintheDesert.

NextmorningIhadscarcelystrengthtomountmyhorse.HormuzdturnedofftoHillahtoputastoptotheexcavationsatBabylon.WiththecaravanImadeanotherforcedmarchinthebeatentracktoBaghdad,andreachedthe

khanofIskanderiyah.

Wewerenowwithinafewhoursoftheendofourjourney,andleavingtheservantsandbaggagetofollowatleisure,IquittedthekhanwiththeBairakdarbeforedawntocanterintoBaghdad.Asthesunrosefromthesea-likeplain,thegreatruinofCtesiphonappearedabovetheeasternhorizon.

Thisruin,withafewmoundsandheapsofrubbishscatteredaroundit,isallthatnowremainsofthecapitaloftheParthianempire.OntheoppositebankoftheTigrislonglinesofearthenramparts,formingaquadrangleandinclosingtheusualsignsofformerhabitations,markthesiteofthecitybuiltbySeleucusafterthelastfallofBabylon.

ThevictoriousArabs,underSaad,thegeneraloftheCaliphOmar,pillagedCtesiphonaftertheyhadoverthrownthePersianarmiesinthedecisivebattleofCadesia,inthesixteenthyearoftheHegira.Theyfoundinthepalacethethrone,thecrown,andthestandardofthePersiankings,togetherwithacarpetwhichcoveredthefloorofthegreathall,andwasofsuchextraordinarybeautyandvaluethatitexcitedthewonderoftheconquerors,andwasconsideredamongstthemostpreciousspoiltakenfromtheirenemies.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


CtesiphonandSeleuciareceivedfromtheArabsthenameofAlMadain,orthetwincities.WhenBaghdadwasfoundedontheTigris,afewmilesabovethem,theCaliphAlMansourwishedtopulldownthepalaceofChosroesformaterialstobuildhisowncapital.Hisvizir,whohadrecentlyturnedfromtheMagianreligion,endeavoredtodissuadehim.ThecaliphupbraidedhimforbeingbutaninsincereconverttoIslam,andforsympathisingwiththosewhostillprofessedhisformerfaith,andwhosemonumentshethereforewishedtopreserve.Theattempttodestroythevastedificewasfruitless;butwhenitwasabouttobeabandoned,thevizirurgedhismastertopersevere,exclaiming,"thatifhenowceasedtopulldownthepalace,historywouldsaythatAlMansourwithallhispowerwasunabletooverthrowthatwhichanotherprincehadbuilt."

IdidnotvisitCtesiphononthisoccasion;theriverseparatedmefromtheruins,andIonlymentiontheminthisplacetodescribearemarkableeffectofmiragewhichIwitnessedasIrodetowardsBaghdad.Asthequiveringsunroseinuncloudedsplendor,thepalacewastransformedintoavastarcadeofenormousarchesrestinguponcolumnsandmassesofmasonry.Graduallythisarcadewas,asitwere,compressedliketheslidesofatelescope,butthebuildinggainedinheightwhatitlostinlength,andonearchslowlyappearedabovetheother,untiltheruinassumedtheshapeofatowerreachingtothesky,andpiercedfromthebasetothesummitbyinnumerablearches.Inafewminutesthisstrangeedificebegantomeltawayintotheair,andIsawamagnified,thoughperfectimageof

thepalace;butuponitwasitsexactcounterpartupsidedown.Otherequallysingularchangessucceededuntilthesunwashighintheheavens,andtheruinatlengthdisappearedinthedistance.Thesmallbushesofcamel-thornscatteredovertheDesertwereduringthistimeturnedintoforesttrees,andatransparentlakeimagedforafleetinghourinitscounterfeitwatersthevaryingformsoftheunsubstantialedifice.AlthoughIhaveseenmanyextraordinaryeffectsofmirageduringmywanderingsintheEast,IscarcelyremembertohavewitnessedonemorestrikingormorebeautifulthanthatneartheruinsofCtesiphon.

IhadjuststrengthleftmetoreachthegatesofBaghdad.Onceinthecity,underthefriendlycareofDr.Hyslop,Isoonrecoveredmyhealth,andwasreadytostartonfreshadventures.

CHAPTERXXV.

PREPARATIONSFORDEPARTURE.--SAHIMAN.--PLUNDEROFHISCAMELS.--LEAVEBAGHDAD.--JOURNEYTHROUGHMESOPOTAMIA.--EARLYARABREMAINS.--THEMEDIANWALL.--TEKRIT.--HORSESSTOLEN.--INSTANCESOFBEDOUINHONESTY.--EXCAVATIONSATKALAHSHERGHAT.--REACHMOSUL.--DISCOVERIESDURINGABSENCE.--NEWCHAMBERSATKOUYUNJIK.--DESCRIPTIONOFBAS-RELIEFS.--EXTENTOFTHERUINSEXPLORED.--BASESOFPILLARS.--SMALLOBJECTS.--ROMANCOINSSTRUCKATNINEVEH.--HOARDOFDENARII.--GREEK

RELICS.--ABSENCEOFASSYRIANTOMBS.--FRAGMENTWITHEGYPTIANCHARACTERS.--ASSYRIANRELICS.--REMAINSBENEATHTHETOMBOFJONAH.--DISCOVERIESATSHEREEF-KHAN--ATNIMROUD.--ASSYRIANWEIGHTS.--ENGRAVEDCYLINDERS.

TherewasnohopeofimprovementinthestateofthecountryroundBaghdad.ThePashahadleftthedamoftheHindiyah,whichshortlyafteragaingaveway,andaffordedfreshretreatstotheArabs.Underthesecircumstances,andforotherreasons,Ideemeditprudenttogiveupfor

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thetimetheexcavationsintheruinsofBabylonia.Whentranquillityhadbeentosomeextentrestoredinthepashalic,anexpeditionmightbeundertakeneitherbymyself,orbysomeothertraveller,withbetterprospectsofsuccess.

TheShammarBedouinswerenowmovingnorthwardstowardstheirspringandsummerpastures.IhadbeenincontinualcommunicationwiththesonsofRishwan.Suttum,whosewife'simperioustemperstillkepthimapartfromhisfamily,hadencampedduringthewinterwithanotherbranchofthetribeintheneighbourhoodofTekrit.ItwassuspectedthathehadbeenprivytomorethanonesuccessfulattackontheTurkishpost,andoncertaintreasureconvoysbelongingtothegovernment.TheroadsbetweenBaghdadandMosulwerecompletelyclosedbybandsofBedouins,whoplunderedeverycaravanthatcamewithintheirreach.SahimanandMijwellhadaccompaniedtheirfathertotheplainsofsouthernBabylonia.Thelatterhadbeenseverelywoundedinsomeaffray.

AsSahimanwasjourneyingnorthwardswiththerestofhistribe,IthoughtthisagoodopportunityoffollowingunderhisprotectionthedirecttracktoMosulthroughtheDesertandalongthewesternbankoftheTigris.Heatonceconsentedtoescortme,onlystipulatingthatIshouldobtainpermissionfromthePashaforhiscamelsandflockstopassthroughthesuburbsofBaghdad,insteadoffollowingthelongerandmoredifficultroadthroughthemarshes,likethoseoftherestofthetribe.Therequest

wasgranted,andaguaranteewasgiventomebythegovernorandthecommanderinchiefofthetroops,thatmyBedouinfriend,withhisfamilyandproperty,shouldcrossthecityinsafety.Theyhadnosooner,however,enteredthegates,thantheywerefallenuponbytheinhabitantsofthequarter,aidedbyabodyofirregulartroopsandAgayls.Abandoningnearlyeighthundredcamels,SahimanandhisbrotherArabsfledintotheDesert.

WarmlysupportedbyCapt.Kemball,Iremonstratedindignantlyagainstthisactoftreachery.TheTurkishauthoritiesdeclaredthatitwasanaccidentbeyondtheircontrol,andatlengthadoptedmeanstorecoverthestolencamels.Itwas,however,withsomedifficulty,thatIwasabletofindSahiman,andthentoinducehimtoreturntoBaghdad.Eventuallythe

greaterpartofhispropertywasrestoredtohim.ItisthusthattheBedouinsareencouragedincontinualenmitytothePorte,andthattheirrelianceonthegoodfaithoftheTurksandoftheinhabitantsoftownshasbeencompletelydestroyed.

Thisuntimelyoccurrence,aswellasrepeatedattacksoffever,delayedmydepartureforsomedays,anditwasnotuntilthe27thofFebruarythat,biddingadieutomygoodfriendsofBaghdad,IcrossedtheTigrisbythecrazybridgeofboats,andtookthecrowdedroadtoKathimain.ThereIpassedthenightbeneaththehospitableroofoftheNawabofOude.Atdaybreakonthefollowingmorning,undertheguidanceofSahiman,andaccompaniedbyHormuzd,theJebours,andmyservants,Ileftthesacredsuburb,andfollowedabeatentrackleadingtotheDesert.Inorderto

avoidthewindingsoftheriver,westruckacrossthebarrenplain.ThelowhousesofKathimainsoondisappearedfromoursight,butforsomemileswewatchedthegildeddomesandminaretsofthetombsoftheImaums,risingabovethedarkbeltofpalms,andglitteringintheraysofthemorningsun.Atlasttheytoovanished,andIhadlookedforthelasttimeuponBaghdad.WewerenowinascompleteawildernessasifwehadbeenwanderinginthemidstofArabia,andnotwithinafewmilesofagreatcity.Notalivingcreaturebrokethesolitude.Hereandtherewesawthesitesofformerencampments,buttheArabshadlongsinceleftthem,eithertomovefurtherintotheDesert,ortoseeksecurityfromanenemy

7/31/2019 Ninevah


amongstthedategrovesonthebanksoftheriver.

Wetravelledwithspeedovertheplain.AfterarideofninehourswefoundourselvesinthemidstofthepalmtreesofavillagecalledSummaichah,formerlyatownofsomeimportance,andstillwateredbytheDujail,awideanddeepcanalofthetimeoftheCaliphs,derivedfromtheTigris.Theinhabitantsseeinghorsemeninthedistancemistookusforenemies;butfindingthatweweretravellersandfriendstheyescortedustothehouseoftheirSheikh,Hashem,whoimmediatelyslewasheep,andmadeotherhospitablepreparationsforourentertainment.Thischief,althoughnowrulingoverastationarytribewhotillthesoil,isofShammardescent,andismarriedtoaBedouinlady.Ashiswife,however,willnotcondescendtolivewithinfourwalls,heisobligedtocompromisemattersbypassingonehalfoftheyearunderhertent,andtheotherinhishovelamongsthisownpeople.Asweexpectedtofallinwithhertribeduringourjourneynorthwards,heentrustedmewithabundleofembroideredcloaksandcoloredkerchiefsaspresentstoherandherkin.HismuseefwascrowdedwithBedouins,foramongsttheArabsthehospitalityofHashemhadbecomeaproverb.Summaichah,too,beingontheedgeoftheDesert,isconvenientforhearingnewsfromthetown,andasaplaceofmeetingbeforeorafterplunderingexpeditions,althoughaTurkishmudir,withagarrisonofadozenhalf-starvedAlbanians,resideswithinthewallsofitsruinedserai.

Theplainonallsidesisintersectedbytheremainsofinnumerablecanalsandwatercourses,derivedfromtheTigrisandtheDujail.Theirloftybanksnarrowtheview,anditwasonlyaswepassedoverthem,afterquittingSummaichah,thatwesawthedistantpalmgrovesofthelargevillageofBelled.Weleftthevillagetotheright,andpassedthroughtheruinsofanArabtownofthetimeoftheCaliphs.BeyonditwecrossedtheDujail,byafallingbridgeoffourlargearches,withasmallarchbetweeneach.Thebeautyofthemasonry,theornamentalinscriptions,andrichtraceryofthisruin,showedthatitwasofthebestperiodofArabarchitecture.

TothenorthoftheDujailwewoundthroughaperfectmazeofancientcanalsnowdry.ItrequiredthepractisedeyeoftheBedouintofollowthe

sand-coveredtrack.Abouteightmilesbeyondthebridgetheembankmentssuddenlyceased.Ahighrampartofearththenstretchedasfarastheeyecouldsee,totherightandtotheleft.Atcertaindistancesweremounds,formingsquareinclosures,likeruinedoutworks.Afewhundredyardsinadvancewasasecondrampart,muchlowerandnarrowerthanthefirst.WehadreachedwhatsomebelievetobethefamousMedianwall,oneofthemanywondersofBabylonia,builtbytheBabyloniansfromrivertoriveracrossMesopotamia,toguardtheirwealthycityandthicklypeopledprovincesagainstinvasionfromthenorth.CaptainJones,however,whohasexaminedtheseremainswithmorecareandforagreaterdistancethananyothertraveller,orthanIcoulddoduringahastyjourney,isofopinionthattheyarenotthoseofawallofdefence,butmerelyofanembankment,stretchingformilesinland,andoriginallyraisedtoprotectthelower

countryfrominundations,andtoregulateitsirrigation.Iconfessthatmyownimpression,evenafterthisexplanation,wasinfavoroftherampart.Atanyrate,ifthisbenottheMedianwall,notracesofwhichhavebeenasyetfoundinanyotherpartofMesopotamia,itappearedtometobearegularlineoffortification.ItiscalledbytheArabs,attheplacewecrossedit,Farriyah;elsewhere,theSidralNimroud,ortherampartofNimrod.

BeyondtheMedianwallweentereduponundulatinggravellydowns,furrowedbydeepravines,andoccasionallyrisingintolowhills.Withtherich

7/31/2019 Ninevah


alluvialsoilofBabylonia,wehadlefttheboundariesoftheancientprovince.ThebanksoftheTigrisarehere,ingeneral,toohigh,andthefaceofthecountrytoounequal,toadmitofartificialirrigationbeingcarriedfarinlandbywatercoursesderivedfromtheriver.

Thespiraltower,thedome,andtheminaretsofSamarrahatlengthappearedabovetheeasternhorizon,andwerodetowardsthem.Afterninehoursandahalf'sjourneyweencampedforthenightontheTigrisoppositetothetown.Asthesunwentdownwewatchedthewomenwho,ontheothersideoftheriver,cametofetchtheireveningsuppliesofwater,andgracefullybearingtheirpitchersontheirheadsreturnedtothegates.Butonourbankthesolitudewasonlybrokenbyalonelyhyænacomingtodrinkatthestream,andthehungryjackalsthatprowledroundourtents.TheruinsofanearlyArabtown,calledAshik,stoodonahillinthedistance,andnearourcampingplacewerethedesertedwallsofamorerecentsettlement.

Onthethirddayofourjourneyanotherrideofninehoursandahalf,alongthebanksoftheTigris,broughtustoTekrit.TheArabswerekeepingthesmalltownofTekritinastateofsiege,anditssupplieshavingbeencutoff,wehadsomedifficultyingettingprovisionsforourselvesandourhorses.WewerenotsorrytoleaveTekrit,whoseinhabitantsdidnotbelieanotoriouslybadcharacter.Nextmorningwestruckinland,inordertoavoidtheprecipitoushillsofMakhoul,at

whoseveryfeetsweepstheTigris.TheyformpartofalongisolatedlimestonerangewhichcommenceswiththeSinjar,runsthroughthecentreofMesopotamia,crossestherivernearKhanKarnaineh,thentakesthenameofHamrin,andapproachingthemountainsofLuristancontinuesparallelwiththemtothePersianprovinceofFars.IntheMakhoulhillsareseveralruins.SomefallingwallsandtowershangingovertheTigris,andonce,probably,thestrongholdofafreebooter,wholeviedblackmailontravellers,arecalledbytheArabsthe"CastleoftheGiants,"andaresaidtobethedwelling-placeofjinsandvariousothersupernaturalbeings.

Ourtrackledthroughaperfectwilderness.Wefoundnowater,norsawanymovingthing.When,afteralongrideofaboutelevenhours,wereached

somebrackishsprings,calledBelaliss,thecompletesolitudelulledusintoafeelingofsecurity,andweallsleptwithoutkeepingtheaccustomedwatch.Iwasawokeinthemiddleofthenightbyanunusualnoiseclosetomytent.Iimmediatelygavethealarm,butitwastoolate.Twoofourhorseshadbeenstolen,andinthedarknesswecouldnotpursuethethieves.Sahimanbrokeoutinreproachesofhimselfasthecauseofourmishap,andwanderedaboutuntildawninsearchofsomecluetotheauthorsofthetheft.Atlengthhetrackedthem,declaredunhesitatinglythattheywereoftheShammar,pointedout,frommarksalmostimperceptibletoanyeyebuttothatofaBedouin,thattheywerefourinnumber,hadlefttheirdeloulsatsomedistancefromourtents,andhadalreadyjourneyedfarbeforetheyhadbeendrawnbyourfirestotheencampment.Theseindicationswereenough.Hesworeanoaththathewould

followandbringbackourstolenhorseswherevertheymightbe,foritwasashameuponhimandhistribethat,whilstunderhisprotectionintheDesert,wehadlostanythingbelongingtous.Andhereligiouslykepthisoath.Whenwepartedattheendofourjourney,hebeganatoncetotracetheanimals.Aftersixweeks'search,duringwhichhewentasfarasAnaontheEuphrates,whereonehadbeensoldtoanArabofthetown,hebroughtthemtoMosul.Iwasawayatthetime,butheleftthemwithMr.Rassam,andreturnedtotheDesertwithoutaskingarewardforperforminganactofdutyimperativeonaBedouin.SuchinstancesofhonestyandgoodfaitharenotuncommonamongstthewanderingArabs,asIcanbear

7/31/2019 Ninevah


witness,frompersonalexperience.

Mr.RassamfrequentlysentSuttumacrosstheDesertwithasmuchasfiveorsixhundredpoundsinmoney,andalwayswiththemostcompleteconfidence.Hisonlyrewardwasanoccasionalsilkdress,oroneortwocamelloadsofcornforhisfamily,thewholeofthevalueofafewshillings.[232]OflateyearsthewooloftheBedouinsheephasbeeninconsiderabledemandintheEuropeanmarkets,andalargetradeinthisarticlehasalreadybeenopenedwiththeShammar.Moneyisgenerallyadvancedsomemonthsbeforethesheeparesheared,toenabletheArabstobuytheirwinterstockofprovisions.Mr.Rassamhasthuspaidbeforehandseveralthousandpoundswithoutanywrittenorotherguaranteewhatever.Thetribesleavetheneighbourhoodofthetown,andarenotagainheardofuntiltheirlongstringsofcamelsareseenbringingthepromisedwool.IrememberaBedouincomingallthewayalonefromtheneighbourhoodofBaghdadtopayMr.Rassamatriflingsum,Ithinkbetweenthreeandfourshillings,thebalanceofawoolaccountbetweenthem.

AyouthofthegreattribeoftheAneyzahavingquarrelledwithhisparents,ranawayandcametoMosul,whenheenteredasastudentinacollege.HebecameaMullah,andhadalmostforgottenhisearlyfriends,whenthetribe,drivenbyafaminefromtheSyriandesert,crossedtheEuphrates,andencampednearthetowntobuycorn.IbnGayshish,theirSheikh,hearingbychancethatthefugitivewasstillalive,andnowa

memberofthepriesthood,sentamessengertohimtosay,thatsincehehadquittedhistentshisfatherhaddied,andhadleftacertainnumberofcamels,whichhadbeendividedaccordingtothelawamongsthisfamily.Thoseallottedtohimhadbeeninthesafekeepingofthetribe,andhadincreasedyearly.Thechiefwasnowreadytodowiththemastheirrightfulownermightdirect.

Mr.Rassamhad,atmyrequest,sentapartyofJebourstorenewtheexcavationsatKalahSherghat,whichhadbeenveryimperfectlyexamined.ThespringsofBelalissareseparatedfromtheshoulderoftheGebelMakhoul,whichoverhangstheruins,byawildrockyvalley,calledWadiJehannem,theValleyofHell.Wecrosseditandthehillsinaboutthreehoursandahalf,andcamesuddenlyupontheworkmen,who,ofcourse,took

usforBedouinplunderers,andpreparedtodefendthemselves.Theyhadopenedtrenchesinvariouspartsofthegreatmound,buthadmadenodiscoveriesofanyimportance,andIaminclinedtodoubtwhetheranedificecontaininganynumberofsculpturesorinscriptionseverexistedontheplatform.FragmentsofawingedbullinthealabasteroftheNinevehpalaces,partofastatueinblackstonewithafewcuneiformcharacters,andpiecesofalargeinscribedslabofcopper,werefoundintheruins;Icollectedalsothefragmentsofalargeinscribedcylinderinbakedclay[233],andacoppercup,afewvasesincommonpottery,andsomebeads.

Weencampedinthejungletothenorthoftheruins,andwerevisitedbyfifteenmenoftheAlbouMohammed,whofranklyconfessedthattheywere

thieves,outontheirvocation.Asthetribedoesnotbearaverygoodcharacterforhonesty,andasitmighthavestruckourgueststhattheyhadnoneedofgoingfurthertofulfiltheobjectoftheirjourney,weviolatedthedutiesofhospitality,andputsomeoftheminironsforthenight,asaguaranteeforthegoodconductoftherest.

IorderedtheJebourstoleaveKalahSherghat,andtoreturnwithustoMosul,whichwereachedthefollowingday.Mr.Bell,whohadbeensenttoAssyriabytheTrusteesoftheBritishMuseumtosucceedMr.Cooperasartisttotheexpedition,hadarrivedinthetowntwodaysbefore.Irode

7/31/2019 Ninevah


withhimwithoutdelaytoKouyunjik,toexaminetheexcavationsmadeduringmyabsence.IwillnowdescribethesculpturesuncoveredwhilstIwasatBaghdadandaftermyreturntoMosul,previoustomydepartureforEngland.

Tothenorthofthegreatcentrehallfournewchambershadbeendiscovered.Thefirstwas96feetby23.OnitswallswererepresentedthereturnofanAssyrianarmyfromwar,withtheirspoilofcaptivesandcattle.Theprisonersweredistinguishedbyacapturnedbackatthetop,notunlikethePhrygianbonnetreversed,shorttunics,andabroadbelt.Thewomenhadlongcurlsfallingovertheirshoulders,andwereclothedinfringedrobes.Thefighting-menoftheconqueredtribeworeasimplefilletroundtheirshorthair;atunic,fallinginfronttotheknee,andbehind,tothecalfoftheleg;awavygirdle,andacross-beltroundtheirbreasts,endingintwolargetassels.Akneelingcamel,receivingitsload,wasdesignedwithconsiderabletruthandspirit.Thelegsbentunder,thetailraised,thefootofthemanontheneckoftheanimaltokeepitfromrising,whilstasecondadjuststheburdenfrombehind,formagroupseeneverydayintheDesertandinanEasterntown.Thecamelsaddle,too,nearlyresembledthatstillusedbytheArabs.

Thischamberopenedatoneendintoasmallroom,23feetby13.Onitswallswererepresentedacaptivetribe,dressedinshorttunics,askinfallingfromtheirshoulders,bootslacedupinfront,andcross-bands

roundtheirlegs;theyhadshort,bushyhairandbeards.Intheouterchambertwodoorwaysoppositethegrandentrancesintothegreathall,ledintoaparallelapartment,62feetby16feet.Onitswallswasrepresentedtheconquestofthesamepeople,wearingthereversedPhrygianbonnet.Therewerelonglinesofprisoners;someincarts,othersonfoot.Thefighting-men,armedwithbowsandquivers,weremadetobearpartofthespoil.Inthecostumesofthewarriorsandcaptives,andintheformsofthewaggonsandwar-carts,thesebas-reliefsboreastrikingresemblancetothesculpturesofthesonofEssarhaddon,describedinapreviouschapter.[234]Itmay,therefore,beinferredthattheconquestofthesamenationwascelebratedinboth,andthatonthesewallswehaverecordedthesuccessfulwarsofSennacheribinthecountry

ofSusianaorElam.

Thischamber,liketheoneparalleltoit,ledatoneendintoasmallroom17feetsquare.Onitswalls,thecampaignrecordedintheadjoiningchamberhadbeencontinued.Theseroomscompletedthediscoveriesonthesouthernsideofthepalace.Onthenorthernsideofthesameedifice,andontheriver-faceoftheplatform,onewallofathirdgreathallhadbeenuncovered;theotherwallshadnotbeenexcavatedatthetimeofmydeparturefromMosul.Fromtheveryruinousstateofthispartofthebuilding,andfromthesmallaccumulationofearthabovethelevelofthefoundations,itisdoubtfulwhetheranysculpturesstillexistinit.Thestandingwallhadthreeentrances,thecentreformedbywingedlions,andtheothersbyfishgods.Ofthebas-reliefsonlyfragmentsnowremained.

InonesetwasdepicturedtheconquestofanothertribedwellinginthemarshesofsouthernMesopotamia.TheAssyrianspursuedtheirenemiesinwickerboats,suchasIhavedescribedinmyaccountoftheAfaijArabs;andontheislandsformedbythesmallstreamsflowingthroughthemorass,wereAssyrianwarriorsonhorseback.

Onthesamesideofthehallwasrepresentedtheconquestofasecondnation,whosemenwereclothedinlonggarments,andwhosewomenworeturbans,withveilsfallingtotheirfeet.TheAssyrianshadplunderedtheirtemples,andwereseencarryingawaytheiridols."Ofatruth,Lord,

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thekingsofAssyriahavelaidwasteallthenationsandtheircountries,andhavecasttheirgodsintothefire;fortheywerenogods,buttheworkofmen'shands,woodandstone;thereforetheyhavedestroyedthem."[235]Unfortunatelythebas-reliefsweresomuchinjuredthatthenatureoftheseimagescouldnotbesatisfactorilyascertained.Thefiguresappearedtobebeardless,withtheexceptionofone,whichisthatofamanraisinghisrightarm,andbearingamace.

Thethreeentrancesledintoonechamber86feetby24.Onitscalcinedwallswereonlythefainttracesofbas-reliefs.Icoulddistinguishalineofchariotsinaravinebetweenmountains,warriorsthrowinglogsonagreatburningpileofwood,castlesonthetopsofhills,Assyrianscarryingawayspoil,amongstwhichwasaroyalumbrella,andthekingonhisthronereceivinghisarmyontheirreturnfrombattlewiththecaptivesandbooty.

Oppositetoandcorrespondingwiththethreeentrancesfromthehallwerethreeotherdoorwaysleadingintoaparallelchamberofsomewhatsmallerdimensions.Partsoffourslabsweretheonlysculpturessufficientlywellpreservedtobedrawn:theyrepresentedthesiegeofagreatcity,whosemany-toweredwallsweredefendedbyslingers,archers,andspearmen.Thekinghimselfinhischariotwaspresentattheattack.Aroundhimwerehiswarriorsandhisled-horses.

Threemorechamberswerediscoveredinthispartofthebuilding.Theywereontheveryedgeoftheriver-faceofthemound.Thewallsoftheouterroomhadbeenalmostentirelydestroyed.Anentrance,formedbycolossalwingedfigures,ledfromitintoasecondchamber,about24feetsquare,inwhichthesculptureswerestillpartlypreserved.Amongstthebas-reliefswasanotherbattleinamarsh.TheAssyrianwarriorswereseenfightinginboats,andbringingtheircaptivestotheshore,oneofthevesselsbeingtowedbyamanswimmingonaninflatedskin.Sennacheribhimself,inhischariot,inthemidstofagroveofpalm-trees,receivedtheprisoners,andtheheadsoftheslain.Abovehimwasashortepigraph,whichappearstoread,"Sennacherib,kingofthecountryofAssyria,thespoiloftheriverAgammi,fromthecityofSakrina"(thelastlinenotinterpreted).Althoughthenameofthiscityhasnotyetbeenfound,as

farasIknow,intherecordsonthebullsandonothermonumentsofthesameking,yetthementionoftheriverenablesustorecogniseinthebas-reliefsarepresentationofpartofthecampaign,undertakenbySennacherib,inthefourthyearofhisreign,againstSusubiratheChaldæan:whosecapitalwasBittul,onthesamestream.Althoughtheriveritselfhasnotasyetbeenidentified,itisevidentlyeitherapartoftheTigrisorEuphrates,oroneoftheirconfluents,nearthePersianGulf.Wehavenodifficulty,indeed,indeterminingthesiteofthecountrywhoseconquestisdepictured.Themarshesandpalm-treesshowthatitmusthavebeeninsouthernMesopotamia,orinthedistrictswateredbytheShatelArab.

Agreatretinueofcharioteersandhorsemenappeartohavefollowed

Sennacheribtothiswar.Largecircularshieldswerefixedtothesidesofthechariotsrepresentedinthesculptures.

Thethirdchamber,enteredfromthatlastdescribedthroughadoorwayguardedbycolossaleagle-footedfigures,containedthesculpturedrecordsoftheconquestofpartofBabylonia,orofsomeotherdistricttothesouthofit.Longlinesofchariots,horsemenandwarriors,dividedintocompaniesaccordingtotheirarmsandtheircostume,accompaniedtheking.TheAssyrianshavingtakentheprincipalcityoftheinvadedcountry,cutdownthepalm-treeswithinandwithoutitswalls.Menbeatingdrums,such

7/31/2019 Ninevah


asarestillseeninthesamecountry,andwomenclappingtheirhandsincadencetotheirsong,cameouttogreettheconquerors.Beneaththewallswasrepresentedagreatcaldron,whichappearstohavebeensupporteduponmetalimagesofoxen;perhapsavesselresemblingthebrazenseaofthetempleofSolomon.[236]

SuchwerethediscoveriesintheruinedpalaceofSennacheribatthetimeofmydepartureforEurope.InthismagnificentedificeIhadopenednolessthanseventy-onehalls,chambers,andpassages,whosewalls,almostwithoutanexception,hadbeenpanelledwithslabsofsculpturedalabasterrecordingthewars,thetriumphs,andthegreatdeedsoftheAssyrianking.Byaroughcalculation,about9880feet,ornearlytwomiles,ofbas-reliefs,withtwenty-sevenportals,formedbycolossalwingedbullsandlion-sphinxes,wereuncoveredinthatpartaloneofthebuildingexploredduringmyresearches.Thegreatestlengthoftheexcavationswasabout720feet,thegreatestbreadthabout600feet.[237]Thepavementofthechamberswasfrom20to35feetbelowthesurfaceofthemound.

Onlyapart,however,ofthepalacehasbeenexplored,andmuchstillremainsundergroundofthisenormousstructure.SincemyreturntoEuropeotherroomsandsculptureshavebeendiscovered.

[Illustration:AssyrianPedestal,fromKouyunjik.]

TheexcavationswerenotlimitedtothecornerofKouyunjikcontainingthepalace.Deeptrenchesandtunnelswereopened,andexperimentalshaftssunkinvariouspartsofthemound.Enormouswallsandfoundationsofbrickmasonry,fragmentsofsculpturedandunsculpturedalabaster,inscribedbricks,numeroussmallobjects,andvariousotherremains,werediscovered.[238]Tothenorthoftheruinsonthesamelevel,andrestinguponapavementoflimestoneslabs,werefoundfourcircularpedestals.Theyappearedtoformapartofadoublelineofsimilarobjects,extendingfromtheedgeoftheplatformtoanentrancetothepalace,andmayhavesupportedthewoodencolumnsofacoveredway,orhaveservedasbasestoanavenueofstatues.[239]Theearthnothavingbeensufficientlyclearedawayaroundthem,Iwasunabletoascertainwhethertherewasmorethanadoublerow.Theywereamongsttheveryfewarchitecturalremains

dugoutatNineveh.Theornamentuponthemisnotinelegant,andissomewhatSaracenicinitscharacter.

IwillnowdescribesomeofthemostinterestingsmallobjectsdiscoveredintheearthandrubbishduringtheexcavationsatKouyunjik.Itmustbeborneinmindthatthemoundwithinwhichwastheburiedpalace,wasusedmorethanonce,andbymorethanonedistinctpeople,forthesiteofacastle,ifnotofatown.WeknowthatNinevehwasutterlydestroyedbytheunitedarmiesoftheMedesandBabylonians;yetwefindMeherdatestakingthecastleofNinos,andthesameplaceismentionedbyseverallaterauthors.[240]

CoinsofmorethanoneRomanemperorwere,accordingtothe

superscription,struckatNineveh.OnebearstheheadofTrajan,and,onthereverse,thelegendAUG.FELI.NINI.CLAV.(col.),roundaneaglewithexpandedwingsbetweentwomilitarystandards.AnotherhasononesidetheheadoftheEmperorMaximinus,andonthereverseanakedfigureholdinganobjectresemblingabull'sheadinonehand,withthelegendCOL.NINIVACLAVD.ItwouldappearfromthesecoinsthatClaudius,whoestablishedmanycoloniesintheEast,wasthefounderofonecalledafterhimNinivaClaudiopolis.

Asbuildingsthusappeartohavebeenerectedatvarioustimesonthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


mound,weaccordinglyfindintherubbishremainsofvariousperiods.Amongsttherelicsoccasionallybroughttomebytheworkmenwereafewfragmentsofpottery,andcoins,andill-cutgemswithinscriptionsinthePehlevicharacter,ofthetimeoftheSassaniankingsofPersia,thatis,fromthefirsthalfofthethirdtotheseventhcenturyafterChrist.OftheRomanperiodwehaveterracottafiguresandlamps,andahoardofeighty-ninesilverdenariioftheEmperorsVespasian,Titus,Domitian,Trajan,AntoninusPius,MarcusAurelius,LuciusVerus,Commodus,andSeptimiusSeverus,accordingtothedatesonthecoinsthemselves,fromA.D.74toA.D.201.Mr.R.StuartPoole,oftheBritishMuseum,--towhomIamindebtedforalistanddescriptionofthesecoins,--conjectures,withmuchprobability,thattheywereburiedbyaRomansoldierduringthesecondexpeditionundertakenbySeverusagainsttheArabsofMesopotamia(A.D.202),orduringtheParthianwar,carriedonbythesameemperor.ThenumberofcoinsofCommodus,andthefactthattherearenoneofanyemperorafterSeverus,leadtothebeliefthatthehoardwasburiedaboutthistime.Itisworthyofremark,too,thatthelatesthavefew,ifany,marksofhavingbeenincirculation.UnfortunatelytherearenocoinsamongstthemactuallystruckatNineveh,althoughtheymostlybelongtoEasterncities.

OfthetimeoftheSeleucidæandoftheGreekoccupationofAssyriaandBabylonia,wehaveseveralrelics:amongstthemasmallheadofHercules,withtheeyesinlaidinivory,oneortwofiguresinterracotta,some

copperandglassvessels,andvariousobjectsinpotteryandbronze.TothisperiodIamnowinclinedtoattributetheearthensarcophagi,thegreatjars,andothersepulchralremainsfoundatNimroud,KalahSherghat,Kouyunjik,andinotherAssyrianmounds,which,whenmyformerworkwaswritten,Ibelievedtobelongtoamuchearlierepoch.SincemyreturntoEngland,Mr.Vice-consulRassamhasdiscoveredatKouyunjikseveraltombsbuiltofslabsofstone,andapparentlyofevenalaterdate,forinoneofthem,Iunderstand,wasfoundagoldcoinoftheEmperorMaximinus.Theycontained,however,veryinterestingrelicsinthesamepreciousmetalandinglass.

Itisremarkablethat,notwithstandingthemostcarefulsearch,inallpartsofthecountryaroundMosul,Ihavebeenunabletofindone

undoubtedAssyriantomb,norcanIconjecturehoworwherethepeopleofNinevehburiedtheirdead.Thesepulchralchambersinthehills,sofrequentlydescribedinthesepages,areunquestionablyofacomparativelylateperiod.TherockygulliesoutsideandbetweentheinclosurewallsofKouyunjikhavebeenexaminedoverandoveragainwiththegreatestcarefortracesoftombs,butinvain.Inthenumerousisolatedconicalmoundsscatteredoverthefaceofthecountry,Ihavedetectednothingtoshowthattheywereplacesofsepulture.Itmust,however,beconfessedthattheyhavenotyetbeensufficientlyexcavated.Furtherexperimentsshouldbemadeinthem,andtunnelsopenedintotheirveryfoundations.TheonlyAssyriansepulchrehithertodiscoveredisprobablythevaultedchamberinthehighmoundofNimroud,whichmayhaveoncecontainedtheremainsoftheroyalbuilderofthenorth-westpalace.DidtheAssyrians,likethe

fire-worshippersofPersia,exposetheirdeaduntilnoughtremainedbutthebleachedbones,ordidtheyburnthemandthenscattertheirashestothewinds?Notaclueisgiventotheircustomsinthismatterbyanybas-relieformonumenthithertodiscovered.TheAssyriansappeartohaveavoidedallallusionstotheirdeadandtotheirfuneralrites;unliketheEgyptians,whoportrayedtheceremoniesobservedafterdeath,andeventheeventsofafuturestate,uponthewallsofalmosteverytempleandtomb.

TheonlyrelicsfoundatKouyunjikwhichIcanrefertotheAchæmenianPersianperiod,aretheremainsofseveraldishesandvasesinserpentine

7/31/2019 Ninevah


andmarble.OnefragmentofthisnatureisinscribedwithEgyptianhieroglyphs,characteristic,accordingtoMr.Birch,ofthetimeofthePtolemies.

[Illustration:PartofColossalHead,fromKouyunjik.]

OfAssyrianrelicsobtainedfromtheruins,themostinterestingare

Acolossalbeardlessheadinlimestone,remarkablefortheboldnessofthestyle.Itis,probably,partofalion-sphinx.

Handlesintheformoftheheadsoflions,andotherfragmentsofvasesanddishes.

Afragmentofstripedmarble,carvedwithfiguresinrelief,andbearinganinscriptionwiththegenealogyandtitlesofEssarhaddon.

Agoldear-ringadornedwithpearls,resemblingthosestillincommonuseamongstArabwomen.

Arudecircularvesselinlimestone,ornamentedontheoutsidewithfiguresinreliefoftheAssyrianHerculesstrugglingwiththelion.

Mouldsforcastingear-ringsandotherornamentsingoldandsilver.The

formsuponthemareallpurelyAssyrian,asthelion-headeddeity,thecone,thebull'shead,andthesacredsignsseenintheNimroudsculpturesroundtheneckoftheking.Thelargestmouldisinlimestone,theothersinserpentine.TheyarepreciselysuchasareusedtothisdaybyArabgoldsmiths.

Variouscopperinstruments(oneintheshapeofasickle),akey,[241]acomb,andotherobjects,suchastheheadsofspearsandarrows,iniron;glassbottles,pottery,fragmentsofterracotta,andmarblewithinscriptions,andmanyotherrelics,allofwhich,withthoseaboveenumerated,arenowintheBritishMuseum.

Ihadlongbeendesirousofmakingsomeexperimentsinthemoundonwhich

standstheso-calledtomboftheprophetJonah.ItformspartofthegreatgroupofruinsoppositeMosul,andis,likeKouyunjik,inthelineoftheinclosurewalls.SomehavebelievedittorepresenttherealsiteofancientNineveh,Kouyunjikbeingtheremainsofapalaceaddedtothecityatalaterperiod.Itwasimportant,therefore,toascertainthenatureandprobabledateoftheedificecoveredbythemound.Thesanctityoftheplacepreventedanyattempttoexcavateopenly,anditwasnecessarytocarryonmyresearcheswithoutexcitingthesuspicionoftheMussulmaninhabitantsoftheneighbourhood.

Avillagehasrisenroundthemosquecontainingthetomb.Therestofthemoundisoccupiedbyaburyingground,thicklysetwithMussulmangravestones.Truebelieversfromthesurroundingcountrybringtheirdead

tothissacredspot,andtodisturbagraveonNebbiYunuswouldcauseatumultwhichmightleadtonoagreeableresults.Thepretendedtombitselfisinadarkinnerroom.NonebutMussulmansshouldbeadmittedwithintheholyprecincts,butIhavemorethanoncevisitedtheshrine,withthesanctionofmygoodfriend,MullahSultan,aguardianofthemosque.Asquareplasterorwoodensarcophagus,entirelyconcealedbyagreenclothembroideredwithsentencesfromtheKoran,standsinthecentreofanapartmentspreadwithacommonEuropeancarpet.Afewostricheggsandcoloredtassels,suchasareseeninsimilarMohammedanbuildings,hangfromtheceiling.Asmallgratedwindowlooksintothehall,wherethe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


truebelieversassembleforprayer.Astaircaseleadsintotheholychamber.Itisneedlesstorepeatthatthetraditionwhichplacesthetombonthisspotisamerefable.[242]

ThevillageofNebbiYunusisinhabitedbyTurcomanfamilies.Someoftheirdwellingsoccupyaconsiderablespace.Hearingthattheownerofoneofthelargestwishedtomakeserdaubs,orundergroundapartmentsforsummer,Ioffered,throughmyagent,TomaShishman,todigthemforhim,onconditionthatIshouldhavealltherelicsandsculpturesdiscoveredduringtheexcavations.BythesemeansIwasabletoexamineasmallpartofthemound.

Afterafewdays'labor,theworkmencametothewallsofachamber.Theywerepanelledwithinscribed,butunsculptured,alabasterslabs.Theinscriptionsmerelycontainedthename,titles,andgenealogyofEssarhaddon,suchaswerefoundonthebullsandsphinxesofthesouth-westpalaceatNimroud.Severalbricksandfragmentsofstonewerealsoobtainedfromtheruins,buttheyallborethesameinscription.Noremainswhateverofmoreancientbuilding,andnorelicsofanearlierperiodwerediscoveredduringmyresidenceatMosulinthemoundoftheProphetJonah.

SincemyreturntoEnglandaninhabitantofthevillage,whilstdiggingthefoundationsofhishouse,uncoveredapairofcolossalhuman-headed

bulls,andtwofiguresoftheAssyrianHerculesslayingthelion,similartothoseintheLouvre.HecommunicatedhisdiscoveryatoncetotheEnglishVice-consul,whoinformedMr.Hodder,theartistsentoutbytheTrusteesoftheBritishMuseum.Throughsomeneglecttheseinterestingspecimenswerenotvisitedandsecuredbeforeothersbecameacquaintedwiththeirexistence,andendeavoredtoobtainpossessionofthem.TheTurkishauthorities,ofcourse,settledtheclaimsoftherivalantiquariesbyseizingthesculpturesforthemselves.Onseveralgroundsthisismuchtoberegretted.Theseremainswill,however,probablyprovetobeofthetimeofEssarhaddon.

ThreemilestothenorthoftheinclosureofKouyunjik,andonthebankoftheTigris,isavillagecalledShereef-Khan.Nearitareseveralmounds.

Thelargest,thoughmuchinferiorinsizetothegreatruinsofAssyria,isdistinguished,likethoseofNimroudandKhorsabad,byaconicalheapatonecorner.Forsometimeexcavationswerecarriedoninthismoundundermysuperintendence,anddiscoveriesofinterestweremadeinit.Atasmalldepthbeneaththesurfaceofthesoilaretheremainsofabuilding.Thewallsofthechambersareofsun-driedbricks,butseveralslabsofalabaster,andpaintedandinscribedbrickswerefoundintheruins.Abroadflightofalabasterstepsappearedtoconnectanupperwithalowerpartoftheedifice.

TheinscriptionsuponthebrickscontainthenamesofSargonandSennacherib.Thoseoftheformerkingread,"Sargon,kingofAssyria,thecity(orplace)ofthemoundofthefortofSargonIcalledit;atemple

ofthesun...nearitIbuilt."OtherbricksmentionatemplededicatedtoMars,orsomeotherAssyriandeity.[243]Thereareseveralsmallermoundsintheneighbourhood,whichhavenotbeenexplored.

AtNimroudtheexcavationshadbeenalmostsuspended.AfewArabs,stillworkinginthecentreofthemound,hadfoundtheremainsofsculpturedwalls,formingpartoftheedificepreviouslydiscoveredthere.Thelowerhalfofseveralcolossalfigures,amongstthemwingedmenstrugglingwithlionsandmythicanimals,hadbeenpreserved.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Afewsmallobjectsofinterestwerediscoveredindifferentpartsoftheruins,andsomeadditionalroomswereexploredinthenorth-westandsouth-eastpalaces.Innoneofthem,however,weretheresculptures,oreveninscriptions,exceptsuchaswereimpressedonbricks.ThebricksfoundamongstitsruinsprovethatitwasbuiltbythegrandsonofEssarhaddon,whomustconsequentlyhavebeenoneofthelastoftheAssyriankings.

Severaltombscontainingvases,beadsandornaments,werediscoveredabovethecentrepalace.Afewlargeearthenjarsfromdifferentpartsofthemound,anumberofsmallcupsofpeculiarshapefromtheruinsoftheupperchambers,otherpotteryofvariouskinds,andsomerudefiguresinbakedclay,weretheprincipalrelicsfoundduringtheexcavationsatNimroud.

Inthenorth-westpalacewasalsodiscoveredaduck,withitsheadturneduponitsback,ingreenstone,similartothatinwhitemarbleengravedinthefirstseriesoftheMonumentsofNineveh.Thesetwoobjectsareofconsiderableinterest,aswelearnfromshortinscriptionsuponthem,decipheredbyDr.Hincks,thattheyareweightsofthirtymana,orhalfaBabyloniantalent.

Theyhavebeenexaminedatthemint,andarefoundtoweigh40lb.4oz.4dwt.4gr.and39lb.1oz.1dwt.6gr.Thedifferencebetweenthemis

owingtotheheadofonehavingbeenbrokenoff.[244]Itmaybeinferredthattwosimilarfiguresinbakedclay,inscribedwithAssyriannumerals,fromthesameruins,andothersofsmallsizeinagate,onyx,andotherhardmaterials,arelikewiseweights,probablypartsofthetalentorofthemana.ItisalsohighlyprobablethatthecuriousseriesofbronzelionsdiscoveredatNimroudduringmyfirstresearcheswereusedforalikepurpose.Sincethecoatingofgreenrusthasbeenremovedfromthem,theyarefoundinseveralinstancestobeartwoshortinscriptions,oneincuneiformcharacterswiththenameofSennacherib,theotherinPhoenician,orcursiveSemeticletters,accompaniedbyparallellinesornotchescutinthebronze.Dr.Lepsiushasrecentlypublishedabas-relieffromanEgyptiantomb,representingamanweighing

ringsofgoldorsilver,withweightsintheformofabull'shead,andofaseatedlionwitharingonitsback,preciselysimilartothosefromNineveh,nowintheBritishMuseum.

Theengravedcylindersorgems,ofwhichalargecollectionwasbroughtbymetoEngland,formanimportantaswellasaninterestingclassofAssyrianandBabylonianantiquities.Theyvaryinsize,fromabouttwoinchestoaquarterofaninch,andareeithercircular,orbarrel-shaped,orslightlycurvedinwards.Theyareusuallyoflapis-lazuli,rock-crystal,cornelian,amethyst,chalcedony,agate,onyx,jasper,quartz,serpentine,sienite,orientalalabaster,greenfelspar,andhæmatite.Theworkmanshipvariesindifferentspecimens,thatofsomebeingofconsiderablesharpnessanddelicacy,andthatofotherssocoarse

asscarcelytoenableustorecognisetheobjectsengraveduponthem.Thesubjectsaregenerallyeitherreligiousorhistorical,usuallytheformer,andonmanyareshortinscriptionsinthecuneiformcharacter.Thesecylindersbelongtoseveraldistinctperiods.ThemostancientwithwhichIamacquaintedarethoseofthetimeofthekingswhobuilttheoldestedificeshithertodiscoveredatNineveh.Thesubjectsareusuallythekinginhischariotdischarginghisarrowsagainstalionorwildbull,warriorsinbattle,themonarchorpriestsinadorationbeforetheemblemofthedeity,theeagle-headedgod,wingedbullsandlions,andothermythicanimals,accompaniedbythecommonAssyriansymbols,thesun,the

7/31/2019 Ninevah


moon,thesevenstars,thewingedglobe,thesacredtree,andthewedgeorcuneaticelement.

ThenextinorderofdatearethoseofthetimeofSargonandhissuccessors.Tothisperiodbelongthecylinderwiththefish-god,andthatwhichIbelievetobethesignetofSennacheribhimself,describedinapreviouspartofthiswork.[245]Averyfinespecimen,cutinagate,representsanAssyriangoddess,perhapsAstarte,ortheMoon,surroundedbytenstars,withadogseatedbeforeher.Infrontofheristhemoon'screscent,andapriestinanattitudeofadoration.Atreeandarampantgoat,bothcommonAssyriansymbols,completethegroup.Onothersofthesameagewefindthegodsrepresentedundervariousforms,thekingandpriestsworshippingbeforethem,altarsandvarioussignspeculiartotheperiod,andtheusualmythicemblems.

ThepureBabyloniancylindersaremorecommonlyfoundinEuropeancollectionsthantheAssyrian.Theyareusuallyengravedwithsacredfigures,accompaniedbyashortinscriptionintheBabyloniancuneiformcharacter,containingthenamesoftheownerofthesealandofthedivinity,underwhoseparticularprotectionhehadprobablyplacedhimself.Theyareusuallycutinaredironoreorhæmatite,whichappearstohavebeenafavoritematerialforsuchobjects.Manyspecimens,however,areinagate,jasper,andotherhardsubstances.

Aclassofcylindersofveryrudeworkmanship,andusuallyinhæmatite,areprobablyofthelatestBabylonianperiod.Uponthemareusuallyfoundthefiguresofvariousdeities,andespeciallyofVenus,sometimesrepresentedwiththewatersoflifeflowingfromherbreasts.

Afewcylindersandgems,Assyrianincharacter,areinscribedwithSemeticletters,resemblingthePhoenicianandcursiveBabylonian.Theyarerare,andhavechieflybeenfound,Ibelieve,inruinsonthebanksoftheEuphratestothenorthofBabylon,nearHitandAna.Iwouldattributethem,therefore,totheSemeticpopulationwhichinhabitedthedistrictsontheeasternbordersoftheSyriandesert.Theyappeartobelongtovariousperiods,fromthetimeofthelowerAssyriandynasty(ofwhichthreefinespecimensareinpossessionofCaptainJonesofBaghdad)to

thatofthePersianoccupationofBabylonia.

PersiancylindersfrequentlybearaninscriptioninthecuneiformcharacterpeculiartothemonumentsoftheAchæmeniandynasty.Themostinterestingspecimenofthisclassisthewell-knowngemofgreenchalcedonyintheBritishMuseum,onwhichisengravedkingDariusinhischariot,withhisnameandthatofhisfather.Thiswasprobablyaroyalsignet.Another,inthesamecollection,bearsthenameofoneArsaces,whoappearstohavebeenachamberlain,ortohaveheldsomeotherofficeinthePersiancourt.Averyfinecylinderinrockcrystal,broughtbymetothiscountry,andnowalsointheBritishMuseum,hasthegodOrmuzdrepresentedasatPersepolis,raisedbytwowingedbullswithhumanheads,aboveanoval,containingtheimageofaking.Theengravingonthisgem

isremarkableforitsdelicacyandminuteness.

Persiancylindersarerecognisedatoncebythedraperiesofthefigures,gatheredupintofolds,asinthesculpturesoftheAchæmeniandynasty,apeculiarityneverfoundonpureAssyrianorBabylonianmonuments;bythecrownoftheking;bytheformofthesupremedeity,orOrmuzdandbythemonstrousanimals,resemblingthesculpturesonthewallsofPersepolis.

Ithasbeenconjecturedthatthesecylinderswereamuletsengravedwithakindofhoroscopeoftheowner,orwiththefiguresofthedeitieswho

7/31/2019 Ninevah


weresupposedtopresideoverhisnativityandfortunes.Butitisevidentfromthespecimensabovedescribed,thattheyweresealsorsignetstobeimpressedonclayandothermaterialsonwhichpublicandprivatedocumentswerewritten.HerodotusstatesthattheBabylonianswereaccustomedtohavetheirsignetsconstantlywiththem,asamodernEasternalwayscarrieshisseal.[246]

Thesealwasevidentlyrolledonthemoistclay,atthesametimeastheletterswereimpressed.[247]Thetabletwasthenplacedinthefurnaceandbaked.Allthesecylindershavebeenpierced,andonespecimen,foundbymyworkmeninamoundinthedesertneartheSinjar,stillretaineditscoppersetting.Theyrevolveduponametalaxis,likeagardenrolling-stone.

SuchthenweretheobjectsofsculptureandthesmallerrelicsfoundatNimroudandKouyunjik.Iwillnowendeavourtoconveytothereader,inconclusion,ageneralideaoftheresultsoftheexcavations,asfarastheymaytendtoincreaseouracquaintancewiththehistoryofAssyria,andtoillustratethereligion,thearts,andthemannersofherinhabitants.

CHAPTERXXVI.RESULTSOFTHEDISCOVERIESTOCHRONOLOGYANDHISTORY.--NAMESOFASSYRIANKINGSINTHEINSCRIPTIONS.--ADATEFIXED.--THENAMEOFJEHU.--THEOBELISKKING.--THEEARLIERKINGS.--SARDANAPALUS.--HISSUCCESSORS.--PUL,ORTIGLATHPILESER.--SARGON.--SENNACHERIR.--ESSARHADDON.--THELASTASSYRIANKINGS.--TABLESOFPROPERNAMESINTHEASSYRIANINSCRIPTIONS.--ANTIQUITYOFNINEVEH.--OFTHENAMEOFASSYRIA.--ILLUSTRATIONSOFSCRIPTURE.--STATEOFJUDÆAANDASSYRIACOMPARED.--POLITICALCONDITIONOFTHEEMPIRE.--ASSYRIANCOLONIES.--PROSPERITYOFTHECOUNTRY.--RELIGION.--EXTENTOFNINEVEH.--ASSYRIANARCHITECTURE.--COMPAREDWITHJEWISH.--PALACEOF

KOUYUNJIKRESTORED.--PLATFORMATNIMROUDRESTORED.--THEASSYRIANFORTIFIEDINCLOSURES.--DESCRIPTIONOFKOUYUNJIK.--CONCLUSION.

AlthoughtenyearshavebarelyelapsedsincethefirstdiscoveryofruinsonthesiteofthegreatcityofNineveh,amassofinformation,scarcelytobeoverratedforitsimportanceandinterest,hasalreadybeenaddedtoourpreviousknowledgeoftheearlyhistoryandcomparativegeographyoftheEast.Whenin1849IpublishedthenarrativeofmyfirstresearchesinAssyria,thenumerousinscriptionsrecoveredfromtheremainsoftheburiedpalaceswerestillalmostasealedbook;foralthoughaninterpretationofsomehadbeenhazarded,itwasratheruponmereconjecturethanuponanywell-establishedphilologicalbasis.Ithen,

however,expressedmybelief,thaterelongtheircontentswouldbeknownwithalmostcertainty,andthattheywouldbefoundtofurnishahistory,previouslyalmostunknown,ofoneoftheearliestandmostpowerfulempiresoftheancientworld.SincethattimethelaborsofEnglishscholars,andespeciallyofCol.RawlinsonandDr.Hincks,andofM.deSaulcy,andothereminentinvestigatorsontheContinent,havenearlyledtothefulfilmentofthoseanticipations;andmypresentworkwouldbeincompletewereInottogiveageneralsketchoftheresultsoftheirinvestigations,aswellasofmyownresearches.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Iwillnotdetainthereaderbyanyaccountofthevariousprocessesadoptedindeciphering,andofthestepsgraduallymadeintheinvestigation;norwillIrecapitulatethecuriouscorroborativeevidencewhichhasledinmanyinstancestotheverificationoftheinterpretations.Suchdetails,philologicallyofthehighestinterest,andverycreditabletothesagacityandlearningofthosepursuingthisdifficultinquiry,willbefoundintheseveraltreatisespublishedbytheinvestigatorsthemselves.Theresults,however,arestillveryincomplete.Itis,indeed,amatterofastonishmentthat,consideringthetimewhichhaselapsedsincethediscoveryofthemonuments,somuchprogresshasbeenalreadymade.Butthereiseveryprospectofourbeingable,erelong,toascertainthegeneralcontentsofalmosteveryAssyrianrecord.TheBabyloniancolumnoftheBisutuninscription,thatinvaluablekeytothevariousbranchesofcuneiformwriting,hasatlengthbeenpublishedbyCol.Rawlinson,andwillenableotherstocarryontheinvestigationuponsuregrounds.

Iwillproceed,therefore,togiveaslightsketchofthecontentsoftheinscriptionsasfarastheyhavebeenexamined.Theearliestkingofwhosereignwehaveanydetailedaccountwasthebuilderofthenorth-westpalaceatNimroud,themostancientedificehithertodiscoveredinAssyria.Hisrecords,however,withotherinscriptions,furnishthenamesoffive,ifnotseven,ofhispredecessors,someofwhom,thereisreasontobelieve,erectedpalacesatNineveh,andoriginallyfoundedthosewhich

wereonlyrebuiltbysubsequentmonarchs.ItisconsequentlyimportanttoascertaintheperiodoftheaccessionofthisearlyAssyrianking,andweapparentlyhavethemeansoffixingitwithsufficientaccuracy.Hisson,weknow,builtthecentrepalaceatNimroud,andraisedtheobelisk,nowintheBritishMuseum,inscribinguponittheprincipaleventsofhisreign.Hewasagreatconqueror,andsubduedmanydistantnations.Thenamesofthesubjectkingswhopaidhimtributearedulyrecordedontheobelisk,insomeinstanceswithsculpturedrepresentationsofthevariousobjectssent.Amongstthosekingswasonewhosenamereads"Jehu,thesonofKhumri(Omri),"andwhohasbeenidentifiedbyDr.HincksandCol.RawlinsonwithJehu,kingofIsrael.Thismonarchwascertainlynottheson,althoughoneofthesuccessorsofOmri,buttheterm"sonof"appearstohavebeenusedthroughouttheEastinthosedays,asitstillis,to

denoteconnectiongenerally,eitherbydescentorbysuccession.ThuswefindinScripturethesamepersoncalled"thesonofNimshi,"and"thesonofJehoshaphat,thesonofNimshi."[248]AnidentificationconnectedwiththiswordKhumriorOmriisoneofthemostinterestinginstancesofcorroborativeevidencethatcanbeadducedoftheaccuracyoftheinterpretationsofthecuneiformcharacter.ItwasobservedthatthenameofacityresemblingSamariawasconnected,andthatininscriptionscontainingverydifferenttexts,withonereadingBethKhumriorOmri.[249]ThisfactwasunexplaineduntilCol.Rawlinsonperceivedthatthenameswere,infact,appliedtothesameplace,oronetothedistrict,andtheothertothetown.SamariahavingbeenbuiltbyOmri,nothingismoreprobablethanthat--inaccordancewithacommonEasterncustom--itshouldhavebeencalled,afteritsfounder,BethKhumri,orthe

houseofOmri.AsafurtherproofoftheidentityoftheJehumentionedontheobeliskwiththekingofIsrael,Dr.Hincks,towhomweowethisimportantdiscovery,hasfoundonthesamemonumentthenameofHazael,whomElijahwasorderedbytheAlmightytoanointkingofSyria.[250]

Supposing,therefore,thesenamestobecorrectlyidentified,--andourAssyrianchronologyforthisperiodrestsasyet,itmustbeadmitted,almostentirelyuponthissupposition,--wecanfixanapproximatedateforthereignoftheobeliskking.Jehuascendedthethroneabout885B.C.;theaccessionoftheAssyrianmonarchmust,consequently,beplaced

7/31/2019 Ninevah


somewherebetweenthattimeandthecommencementoftheninthcenturyB.C.,andthatofhisfatherinthelatterpartofthetenth.[251]

Inhisrecordsthebuilderofthenorth-westpalacementions,amongsthispredecessors,akingwhosenameisidenticalwiththeonefromwhom,accordingtotheinscriptionsatBavian,weretakencertainidolsofAssyria418yearsbeforethefirstorsecondyearofthereignofSennacherib.AccordingtoDr.Hincks,Sennacheribascendedthethronein703B.C.Wehave,therefore,1121B.C.forthedateofthereignofthisearlyking.

Therearestilltwokingsmentionedbynameintheinscriptionsfromthenorth-westpalaceatNimroud,asancestorsofitsbuilder,whohavenotyetbeensatisfactorilyplaced.ItisprobablethattheearliestreignedsomewhereaboutthemiddleofthetwelfthcenturyB.C.ColonelRawlinsoncallshim_thefounder_ofNineveh;butthereisnoproofwhatever,asfarasIamaware,insupportofthisconjecture.Itispossible,however,thathemayhavebeenthefirstofadynastywhich_extended_theboundsoftheAssyrianempire,andwasfounded,accordingtoHerodotus,aboutfivecenturiesbeforetheMedianinvasion,orinthetwelfthcenturyB.C.;butthereappearstobeevidencetoshowthatacitybearingthenameofNinevehstoodonthebanksoftheTigrislongbeforethatperiod.[252]

Thesecondking,whosenameisunplaced,appearstobementionedinthe

inscriptionsastheoriginal_founder_ofthenorth-westpalaceatNimroud.Accordingtotheviewsjustexpressed,hemusthavereignedabouttheendofthetwelfthcenturyB.C.

Thefatherandgrandfatherofthe_builder_ofthenorth-westpalacearementionedinnearlyeveryinscriptionfromthatedifice.Theirnames,accordingtoColonelRawlinson,areAdrammelechandAnáku-Merodach.TheymusthavereignedinthemiddleofthetenthcenturyB.C.Wehavenorecordsofeitherofthem.

Thefirstkingofwhomwehaveanyconnectedhistoricalchroniclewasthebuilderofthewell-knownedificeatNimroudfromwhichwereobtainedthemostperfectandinterestingbas-reliefsbroughttothiscountry.Inmy

formerworkIstatedthatColonelRawlinsonbelievedhisnametobeNinus,andhadidentifiedhimwiththatancientking,accordingtoGreekhistory,thefounderoftheAssyrianempire.Hehassincegivenupthisreading,andhassuggestedthatofAssardanbal,agreeingwiththehistoricSardanapalus.Dr.Hincks,however,assigningadifferentvaluetothemiddlecharacter(thenamebeingusuallywrittenwiththree),readsAshurakhbal.ItiscertainthatthefirstmonogramstandsbothforthenameofthecountryofAssyriaandforthatofitsprotectingdeity.Wemightconsequentlyassume,evenwereotherproofwanting,thatitshouldbereadAssurorAshur.

Ihaveelsewheregivenadescriptionofthevariousgreatmonumentalrecordsofthisking,withextractsfromtheircontents.Heappearsto

havecarriedhisarmstothewestofNinevehacrossSyriatotheMediterraneanSea,tothesouthintoChaldæa,probablybeyondBabylon(thenameofthiscitydoesnot,however,asfarasIamaware,occurintheinscriptions),andtothenorthintoAsiaMinorandArmenia.

Ofhisson,whosenameColonelRawlinsonreadsTemenbarandDivanubara,andDr.HincksDivanubar,wehavefullandimportanthistoricalannals,includingtheprincipaleventsofthirty-oneyearsofhisreign.Theyareengravedupontheblackobelisk,anduponthebacksofthebullsinthecentreofthemoundofNimroud.Thisking,likehisfather,wasagreat

7/31/2019 Ninevah


conqueror.Hewagedwar,eitherinpersonorbyhisgenerals,inSyria,Armenia,Babylonia,Chaldæa,Media,andPersia.

Thetworoyalnamesnextinorderoccuronthepavementslabsoftheupperchambers,onthewestfaceofthemoundofNimroud.[253]Theymaybelongtothesonandgrandson,andimmediatesuccessors,oftheobeliskking.Thetwonames,however,havenotbeensatisfactorilydeciphered.ColonelRawlinsonreadsthemShamas-AdarandAdrammelechII.;Dr.HincksonlyventurestosuggestShamsiyavforthefirst.

OntheAssyriantabletfromthetunnelofNegoub[254],areapparentlytworoyalnames,whichmaybeplacednextinorder.Theyaremerelymentionedasthoseofancestorsorpredecessorsofthekingwhocausedtherecordtobeengraved.Dr.HincksreadsthemBaldasiandAshurkish.Astheinscriptionismuchmutilated,somedoubtmayexistastothecorrectnessofitsinterpretation.

ThenextkingofwhomwehaveanyactualrecordsappearstohaverebuiltoraddedtothepalaceinthecentreofthemoundofNimroud.Theedificewasdestroyedbyasubsequentmonarch,whocarriedawayitssculpturestodecorateapalaceofhisown.Alltheremainsfoundamongstitsruins,withtheexceptionofthegreatbullsandtheobelisk,belongtoakingwhosenameoccursonapavement-slabdiscoveredinthesouth-westpalace.Thewallsandchambersofthisbuildingwere,itwillberemembered,

decoratedwithbas-reliefsbroughtfromelsewhere.Bycomparingtheinscriptionsuponthem,anduponapavement-slabofthesameperiod,withthesculpturesintheruinsofthecentrepalace,wefindthattheyallbelongtothesameking,andweareabletoidentifyhimthroughamostimportantdiscovery,forwhichwearealsoindebtedtoDr.Hincks.Inaninscriptiononabas-reliefrepresentingpartofalineofwar-chariots,hehasdetectedthenameofMenahem,thekingofIsrael,amongstthoseofothermonarchspayingtributetothekingofAssyria,intheeighthyearofhisreign.[255]ThisAssyrianking,must,consequently,havebeeneithertheimmediatepredecessorofPul,Pulhimself,orTiglathPileser,thenameonthepavement-slabnothavingyetbeendeciphered.[256]

Thebas-reliefsadorninghispalace,likethoseatKhorsabad,appearto

havebeenaccompaniedbyacompleteseriesofhisannals.Unfortunatelyonlyfragmentsofthemremain.HisfirstcampaignseemstohavebeeninChaldæa,andduringhisreignhecarriedhisarmsintotheremotestpartsofArmenia,andacrosstheEuphratesintoSyriaasfarasTyreandSidon.Thereisapassageinoneofhisinscriptionsstillunpublished,whichreads,"asfarastheriverOukarish,"thatmightleadustobelievethathisconquestswereevenextendedtothecentralprovincesofAsiaandtotheOxus.Hisannalscontainveryamplelistsofconqueredtownsandtribes.AmongsttheformerareHarranandUr.Herebuiltmanycities,andplacedhissubjectstodwellinthem.

Thenextmonarch,whosenameisfoundonAssyrianmonuments,wasthebuilderofthepalaceofKhorsabad,nowsowellknownfromM.Botta's

excavationsandtheengravingsofitssculpturespublishedbytheFrenchgovernment.Hisname,thoughreadwithslightvariationsbydifferentinterpreters,isadmittedbyalltobethatofSargon,theAssyriankingmentionedbyIsaiah.ThenamesofhisfatherandgrandfatheraresaidtohavebeenfoundonaclaytabletdiscoveredatKouyunjik,buttheydonotappeartohavebeenmonarchsofAssyria.TheruinsofKhorsabadfurnishuswiththemostdetailedandampleannalsofhisreign.Unfortunatelyaninscription,containinganaccountofacampaignagainstSamariainhisfirstorsecondyear,hasbeenalmostentirelydestroyed.But,inonestillpreserved,27,280Israelitesaredescribedashavingbeencarried

7/31/2019 Ninevah


intocaptivitybyhimfromSamariaandtheseveraldistrictsorprovincialtownsdependentuponthatcity.Sargon,likehispredecessors,wasagreatwarrior.HeevenextendedhisconquestsbeyondSyriatotheislandsoftheMediterraneanSea,andatabletsetupbyhimhasbeenfoundinCyprus.HewarredalsoinBabylonia,Susiana,Armenia,andMedia,andapparentlyreceivedtributefromthekingsofEgypt.

ColonelRawlinsonbelievedthatthenames"TiglathPileser"and"Shalmaneser,"werefoundonthemonumentsofKhorsabadasepithetsofSargon,andthattheywereappliedintheOldTestamenttothesameking.Hehasnowchangedhisopinionwithregardtothefirst,andDr.Hinckscontendsthatthesecondisnotanameofthisking,butofhispredecessor,--ofwhom,however,itmustbeobserved,wehavehithertobeenunabletotraceanymentiononthemonuments,unless,asthatscholarsuggests,heisalludedtoinaninscriptionofSargonfromKhorsabad.

FromthereignofSargonwehaveacompletelistofkingstothefalloftheempire,ortoaperiodnotfardistantfromthatevent.HewassucceededbySennacherib,whoseannalshavebeengiveninaformerpartofthisvolume.Hisnamewasidentified,asIhavebeforestated,byDr.Hincks,andthisgreatdiscoveryfurnishedthefirstsatisfactorystarting-point,fromwhichthevariouseventsrecordedintheinscriptionshavebeenlinkedwithScripturehistory.ColonelRawlinsonplacestheaccessionofSennacheribtothethronein716,Dr.Hincksin703,which

appearstobemoreinaccordancewiththecanonofPtolemy.Theeventsofhisreign,asrecordedintheinscriptionsonthewallsofhispalace,aremostlyrelatedoralludedtoinsacredandprofanehistory.IhavealreadydescribedhiswarsinJudæa,andhavecomparedhisownaccountwiththatcontainedinHolyWrit.HissecondcampaigninBabyloniaismentionedinafragmentofPolyhistor,preservedbyEusebius,inwhichthenamegiventoSennacherib'sson,andthegeneralhistoryofthewarappeartobenearlythesameasthoseonthemonuments.Thefragmentishighlyinterestingascorroboratingtheaccuracyoftheinterpretationoftheinscriptions.Iwasnotawareofitsexistencewhenthetranslationgiveninthesixthchapterofthisvolumewasprinted."AfterthereignofthebrotherofSennacherib,AcisesreignedovertheBabylonians,andwhenhehadgovernedforthespaceofthirtydayshewasslainbyMerodach

Baladan,whoheldtheempirebyforceduringsixmonths;andhewasslainandsucceededbyapersonnamedElibus(Belib).Butinthethirdyearofhis(Elibus)reignSennacherib,kingoftheAssyrians,leviedanarmyagainsttheBabylonians;andinabattle,inwhichtheywereengaged,routedandtookhimprisonerwithhisadherents,andcommandedthemtobecarriedintothelandoftheAssyrians.HavingtakenuponhimselfthegovernmentoftheBabylonians,heappointedhisson,Asordanius,theirking,andhehimselfretiredagainintoAssyria."Thisson,however,wasnotEssarhaddon,hissuccessoronthethroneofAssyria.Thetwonamesaredistinguishedbyadistinctorthographyinthecuneiforminscriptions.Sennacheribraisedmonumentsandcausedtabletsrecordinghisvictoriestobecarvedinmanycountrieswhichhevisitedandsubdued.HisimageandinscriptionsatthemouthoftheNahr-el-KelbinSyriaarewellknown.

DuringmyjourneytoEuropeIfoundoneofhistabletsnearthevillageofHasana(orHasanAgha),chieflyremarkablefrombeingatthefootofGebelJudi,themountainuponwhich,accordingtoawidespreadEasterntradition,thearkofNoahrestedafterthedeluge.[257]

Essarhaddon,hisson,washissuccessor,asweknowfromtheBible.Hebuiltthesouth-westpalaceatNimroud,andanedificewhoseruinsarenowcoveredbythemoundofthetombofJonahoppositeMosul.Likehisfatherhewasagreatwarrior,andhestyleshimselfinhisinscriptions"KingofEgypt,conquerorofÆthiopia."Itwasprobablythiskingwhocarried

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Manasseh,kingofJerusalem,captivetoBabylon.[258]

ThenameofthesonandsuccessorofEssarhaddonwasthesameasthatofthebuilderofthenorth-westpalaceatNimroud.HisfatherhaderectedadwellingforhiminthesuburbsorontheoutskirtsofNineveh.HisprincipalcampaignappearstohavebeeninSusianaorElam.AsthegreatnumberoftheinscribedtabletsfoundintheruinsofthepalaceofSennacherib,atKouyunjik,areofhistime,manyofthembearinghisname,wemayhopetoobtainsomerecordoftheprincipaleventsofhisreign.

Hissonbuiltthesouth-eastpalaceonthemoundofNimroud,probablyovertheremainsofanearlieredifice.Bricksfromitsruinsgivehisname,whichhasnotyetbeendeciphered,andthoseofhisfatherandgrandfather.Weknownothingofhishistoryfromcotemporaneousrecords.Hewasoneofthelast,ifnotthelast,kingoftheseconddynasty;andmay,indeed,asIhavealreadysuggested,havebeenthatmonarch,Sardanapalus,orSaracus,whowasconqueredbythecombinedarmiesoftheMedesandBabyloniansunderCyaxaresinB.C.606,andwhomadeofhispalace,hiswealth,andhiswivesonegreatfuneralpile.[259]

ForconvenienceofreferenceIgiveatableoftheroyalnames,accordingtotheversionsofDr.HincksandCol.Rawlinson,theprincipalmonumentsonwhichtheyarefound,andtheapproximatedateofthereignsoftheseveralkings.Inasecondtablewillbefoundthemostimportantproper

andgeographicalnamesintheAssyrianinscriptionswhichhavebeenidentifiedwiththoseintheBible.AthirdtablecontainsthenamesofthethirteengreatgodsofAssyria,accordingtotheversionofDr.Hincks.

TABLEI.--NAMESofASSYRIANKINGSintheInscriptionsfromNineveh.

--------------------------+------------------------------+--------------Conjecturalreading.|Wherefound.|Approximate||Dateofreign.--------------------------+------------------------------+--------------1.Derceto(R[260])|PavementSlab,(B.M.Series,|1250B.C.|p.70,l.25)|

||2.Divanukha(R)|StandardInscription,Nimroud,|1200B.C.Divanurish(H)|&c.|||3.Anakbar-beth-hira(R)|SlabsfromTemplesin|1130B.C.Shimish-bal-Bithkhira|NorthofMoundofNimroud;|(H)|Baviantablets,||&c.|||Mardokempad(?)(R)|AcylinderfromShereef-Khan|Mesessimordacus(?)(R)||4.AdrammelechI.(R)|StandardInscription,|1000B.C.|Bricks,&c.,fromN.W.|

|Palace,Nimroud|||5.AnakuMerodak(R)||ShimishBar(H)|Idem|960B.C.(Sonofpreceding)||||6.SardanapalusI.(R)|StandardInscription,|930B.C.Ashurakhbal(H)|Bricks,&c.,fromN.W.|(Sonofpreceding)|Palace,Nimroud,Abou||Maria,&c.,&c.|

7/31/2019 Ninevah


||7.Divanubara(R)|CentrePalace,Nimroud;|900B.C.Divanubar(H)|Obelisk;Bricks;Kalah-|(Sonofpreceding)|Sherghat;Baashiekha|||8.ShamasAdar(R)|PavementSlab,Upper|870B.C.Shamsiyav(H)|Chambers,Nimroud|||9.AdrammelechII.(R)|Idem|840B.C.||10.Baldasi(?)(H)|Slabfromthetunnelof||Negoub|||11.Ashurkish(?)(H)|Idem|||12.?PulorTiglath-|PavementSlab,andSlabs|750B.C.Pileser|builtintotheS.W.||Palace,Nimroud|||13.Sargon|Khorsabad;Nimroud;|722B.C.|Karamless,&c.,&c.|||14.Sennacherib|Kouyunjik,&c.|703B.C.(Sonofpreceding)||

||15.Essarhaddon|S.W.Palace,Nimroud;|690B.C.?(Sonofpreceding)|NebbiYunus;Shereef-Khan|||16.SardanapalusIII.(R)|Kouyunjik;Shereef-Khan|Ashurakhbal(H)||(Sonofpreceding)||||17.(Sonofpreceding)|S.E.Edifice,Nimroud|||18.Shamishakhadon(?)(H)|BlackStone,inpossession||ofLordAberdeen|

TABLEII.--NAMESOFKINGS,COUNTRIES,CITIES,&c.,mentionedintheOldTestament,whichoccurintheAInscriptions.

Jehu,Omri,Menahem,Hezekiah,Hazael,MerodachBaladan,Pharoah,Sargon,Sennacherib,Essarhaddon,

Dagon,Nebo,Judæa,Jerusalem,Samaria,Ashdod,Lachish,Damascus,Hamath,Hittites(the),

7/31/2019 Ninevah


7/31/2019 Ninevah


10.(?)Dagon.

11.BEL(?Saturn)FatheroftheGods.

12.SHAMASH(theSun).

13.ISHTAR(theMoon).

AlthoughnomentionappearstobemadeintheAssyrianinscriptionsofkingswhoreignedbeforethetwelfthcenturyB.C.,thisisbynomeansaproofthattheempire,anditscapitalNineveh,didnotexistlongbeforethattime.Icannotagreewiththosewhowouldlimitthefoundationofbothtothatperiod.Thesuppositionseemstomequiteatvariancewiththetestimonyofsacredandprofanehistory.TheexistenceofthenameofNinevehonmonumentsoftheeighteenthEgyptiandynastyisstillconsideredalmostcertainbyEgyptianscholars.IhaveinmyformerworkquotedaninstanceofitonatabletofthetimeofThothmesIII.,orofthebeginningofthefourteenthcenturyB.C.[261]Mr.BirchhassincepointedouttomethreeinterestingcartouchescopiedbyDr.LepsiusinEgypt,whichcompletelyremoveanydoubtastothenameofAssyriahavingbeenalsoknownasearlyastheeighteenthdynasty.TheyoccuratthefootofoneofthecolumnsofSoleb,andareoftheageofAmenophisIII.,oraboutthemiddleofthefourteenthcenturybeforeChrist.Thethreefigures,withtheirarmsboundbehind,representAsiaticcaptives,asis

provedbytheirpeculiarfeaturesandhead-dress,aknottedfilletroundthetemples,correspondingwiththatseenintheNinevehsculptures.Eachcartouchecontainsthenameofthecountryfromwhichtheprisonerwasbrought.ThefirstisPatana,orPadan-Aram;thesecondiswrittenA-su-ru,orAssyria;andthethird,Ka-ru-ka-mishi,Carchemish.OnanothercolumnareSaenkar(?ShinarorSinjar);Naharaina,orMesopotamia;andtheKhita,orHittites.ThementioninsuccessionoftheseAsiaticnations,contiguousonetotheother,provesthecorrectnessofthereadingofthewordAssyria,whichmighthavebeendoubtedhadthenameofthatcountrystoodalone.

Mr.BirchhasdetectedastillearliernoticeofAssyriainthestatisticaltabletofKarnak.Thekingofthatcountryistherestatedto

havesenttoThothmesIII.,inhisfortiethyear,atributeoffiftypoundsnineouncesofsomearticlecalledchesbit,supposedtobeastoneforcoloringblue.Itwouldappear,therefore,thatinthefifteenthcenturyakingdom,knownbythenameofAssyria,withNinevehforitscapital,hadbeenestablishedonthebordersoftheTigris.SupposingthedatenowassignedbyCol.RawlinsontothemonumentsatNimroudtobecorrect,nosculpturesorrelicshaveyetbeenfoundwhichwecansafelyattributetothatperiod;futureresearchesandamorecompleteexaminationoftheancientsitesmay,however,hereafterleadtothediscoveryofearlierremains.

AsIhavethusgivenageneralsketchofthecontentsoftheinscriptions,itmaynotbeoutofplacetomakeafewobservationsuponthenatureof

theAssyrianrecords,andtheirimportancetothestudyofScriptureandprofanehistory.Inthefirstplace,thecarewithwhichtheeventsofeachking'sreignwerechronicledisworthyofremark.Theywereusuallywrittenintheformofregularannals,andinsomecases,asonthegreatmonolithsatNimroud,theroyalprogressduringacampaignappearstohavebeendescribedalmostdaybyday.WearethusfurnishedwithaninterestingillustrationofthehistoricalbooksoftheJews.Thereis,however,thismarkeddifferencebetweenthem,thatwhilsttheAssyrianrecordsarenothingbutadrynarrative,orratherregister,ofmilitarycampaigns,spoliations,andcruelties,eventsoflittleimportancebutto

7/31/2019 Ninevah


thoseimmediatelyconcernedinthem,thehistoricalbooksoftheOldTestament,apartfromthedeedsofwarandbloodwhichtheychronicle,containthemostinterestingofprivateepisodes,andthemostsublimeofmorallessons.Itneedscarcelybeadded,thatthisdistinctionispreciselywhatwemighthaveexpectedtofindbetweenthem,andthattheChristianwillnotfailtogivetoitadueweight.

ThemonumentsofNineveh,aswellasthetestimonyofhistory,tendtoprovethattheAssyrianmonarchwasathoroughEasterndespot,uncheckedbypopularopinion,andhavingcompletepoweroverthelivesandpropertyofhissubjects--ratheradoredasagodthanfearedasaman,andyethimselfclaimingthatauthorityandgeneralobedienceinvirtueofhisreverenceforthenationaldeitiesandthenationalreligion.Itwasonlywhenthegodsthemselvesseemedtointerposethatanycheckwasplacedupontheroyalprideandlust;anditisprobablethatwhenJonahenteredNinevehcryingtothepeopletorepent,theking,believinghimtobeaspecialministerfromthesupremedeityofthenation,"arosefromhisthrone,andlaidhisrobefromhim,andcoveredhimwithsackcloth,andsatinashes."[262]TheHebrewstate,onthecontrary,was,toacertainextent,alimitedmonarchy.TheJewishkingswereamenableto,andevenguidedby,theopinionoftheirsubjects.Theprophetsboldlyupbraidedandthreatenedthem;theirwarningsandmenaceswereusuallyreceivedwithrespectandfear."GoodisthewordoftheLordwhichthouhastspoken,"exclaimedHezekiahtoIsaiah,whentheprophetreprovedhimforhis

pride,andforetoldthecaptivityofhissonsandthedestructionofhiskingdom;[263]aprophecywhichnonewouldhavedaredutterinthepresenceoftheAssyrianking,except,asitwouldappearbythestoryofJonah,hewereastranger.Itcanscarcely,therefore,beexpectedthatanyhistoryotherthanbarechroniclesofthevictoriesandtriumphsofthekings,omittingallallusiontotheirreversesanddefeats,couldbefoundinAssyria,evenwereportablerollsorbooksstilltoexist,asinEgypt,beneaththeruins.

ItisremarkablethattheAssyrianrecordsshould,onthewhole,besofreefromtheexaggeratedformsofexpression,andthemagniloquentroyaltitles,whicharefoundinEgyptiandocumentsofthesamenature,andeveninthoseofmodernEasternsovereigns.Ihavealreadypointedoutthe

internalevidenceoftheirtruthfulnesssofarastheygo.Wearefurtherledtoplaceconfidenceinthestatementscontainedintheinscriptionsbytheveryminutenesswithwhichtheyevengivetheamountofthespoil;thetworegistrars,"thescribesofthehost,"astheyarecalledintheBible,[264]beingseeninalmosteverybas-relief,writingdownthevariousobjectsbroughttothembythevictoriouswarriors,--theheadsoftheslain,theprisoners,thecattle,thesheep,[265]thefurniture,andthevesselsofmetal.

ThenextreflectionarisingfromanexaminationoftheAssyrianrecordsrelatestothepoliticalconditionandconstitutionoftheempire,whichappeartohavebeenofaverypeculiarnature.Theking,wemayinfer,exercisedbutlittledirectauthoritybeyondtheimmediatedistricts

aroundNineveh.TheAssyriandominions,asfaraswecanyetlearnfromtheinscriptions,didnotextendmuchfurtherthanthecentralprovincesofAsiaMinorandArmeniatothenorth,notreachingtotheBlackSea,thoughprobablytotheCaspian.TotheeasttheyincludedthewesternprovincesofPersia;tothesouth,Susiana,Babylonia,andthenorthernpartofArabia.TothewesttheAssyriansmayhavepenetratedintoLycia,andperhapsLydia;andSyriawasconsideredwithintheterritoriesofthegreatking;EgyptandMeroe(Æthiopia)werethefarthestlimitsreachedbytheAssyrianarmies.AccordingtoGreekhistory,however,amuchgreaterextentmustbeassignedtoAssyrianinfluence,ifnottotheactual

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Assyrianempire,andwemayhereafterfindthatsuchwasinfactthecase.Iamheremerelyreferringtotheevidenceaffordedbyactualrecordsasfarastheyhavebeendeciphered.

Theempireappearstohavebeenatalltimesakindofconfederationformedbymanytributarystates,whosekingsweresofarindependent,thattheywereonlyboundtofurnishtroopstothesupremelordintimeofwar,andtopayhimyearlyacertaintribute.HencewefindsuccessiveAssyriankingsfightingwithexactlythesamenationsandtribes,someofwhichwerescarcelymorethanfourorfivedays'marchfromthegatesofNineveh.

TheJewishtribes,asithadlongbeensuspectedbybiblicalscholars,cannowbeprovedtohaveheldtheirdependentpositionupontheAssyrianking,fromaveryearlyperiod,indeed,longbeforethetimeinferredbyanypassageinScripture.WheneveranexpeditionagainstthekingsofJudahorIsraelismentionedintheAssyrianrecords,itisstatedtohavebeenundertakenonthegroundthattheyhadnotpaidtheircustomarytribute.[266]

ThepoliticalstateoftheJewishkingdomunderSolomonappearstohavebeenverynearlythesameasthatoftheAssyrianempire.TheinscriptionsinthisinstanceagainfurnishuswithaninterestingillustrationoftheBible.ThescripturalaccountofthepoweroftheHebrewkingresembles,

almostwordforword,someoftheparagraphsinthegreatinscriptionsatNimroud."SolomonreignedoverthekingdomsfromtheriveruntothelandofthePhilistines,anduntotheborderofEgypt:theybroughtpresents,andservedSolomonallthedaysofhislife....Hehaddominionoveralltheregiononthissidetheriver,fromTipsahevenuntotheAzzah,_overallthekings_onthissidetheriver."[267]

Inthecustom,frequentlyalludedtointheinscriptions,ofremovingtheinhabitantsofconqueredcitiesanddistrictstodistantpartsoftheempire,andofreplacingthembycolonistsfromNinevehorfromothersubduedcountries,wehaveanotherinterestingillustrationofScripturehistory.Ithasgenerallybeeninferredthattherewasbutonecarryingaway,oratthemosttwo,ofthepeopleofSamaria,althoughthree,at

least,appeartobedistinctlyalludedtointheBible;thefirst,byPul;[268]thesecond,byTiglath-Pileser[269];thethird,byShalmaneser.[270]ItwasnotuntilthetimeofthelastkingthatSamariawasdestroyedasanindependentkingdom.Onformeroccasionsonlytheinhabitantsofthesurroundingtownsandvillagesseemtohavebeentakenascaptives.SuchwefindtohavebeenthecasewithmanyothernationswhoweresubduedorpunishedforrebellionbytheAssyrians.Theconquerors,too,aswealsolearnfromtheinscriptions,establishedtheworshipoftheirowngodsintheconqueredcities,raisingaltarsandtemples,andappointingpriestsfortheirservice.SoafterthefallofSamaria,thestrangerswhowereplacedinitscities,"madegodsoftheirownandputtheminthehousesofthehighplaceswhichtheSamaritanshadmade."[271]

Thevastnumberoffamiliesthussenttodwellindistantcountries,musthavewroughtgreatchangesinthephysicalcondition,language,andreligionofthepeoplewithwhichtheywereintermixed.WhentheAssyrianrecordsarewithmorecertaintyinterpreted,wemay,perhaps,beabletoexplainmanyoftheanomaliesofancientEasternphilologyandcomparativegeography.

WefurthergatherfromtherecordsofthecampaignsoftheAssyriankings,thatthecountry,bothinMesopotamiaandtothewestoftheEuphrates,

7/31/2019 Ninevah


nowincludedinthegeneraltermof"theDesert,"wasatthatremoteperiod,teemingwithadensepopulationbothsedentaryandnomade;thatcities,towns,andvillagesaroseonallsides;andthat,consequently,thesoilbroughtforthproduceforthesupportofthisgreatcongregationofhumanbeings.Allthosesettlementsdependedalmostexclusivelyuponartificialirrigation.Hencethedrybedsofenormouscanalsandcountlesswatercourses,whicharespreadlikeanetworkoverthefaceofthecountry.Eventhetraveller,accustomedtothetriumphsofmodernscienceandcivilization,gazeswithwonderandaweuponthesegiganticworks,andreflectswithadmirationupontheindustry,theskill,andthepowerofthosewhomadethem.Andmaynotthewatersbeagainturnedintotheemptychannels,andmaynotlifebeagainspreadoverthoseparchedandaridwastes?Uponthemnoothercursehasalightedthanthatofafalsereligionandalistlessrace.

OftheinformationastothereligioussystemoftheAssyrianswhichmaybederivedfromtheinscriptions,Iamstillunwillingtotreatinthepresentstateofourknowledgeoftheircontents.Afarmoreintimateacquaintancewiththecharacterthanweyetpossessisrequiredbeforethetranslationofsuchdocumentscanbefullyreliedon.Allwecannowventuretoinferis,thattheAssyriansworshippedonesupremeGod,asthegreatnationaldeityunderwhoseimmediateandspecialprotectiontheylived,andtheirempireexisted.ThenameofthisgodappearstohavebeenAsshur,asnearlyascanbedetermined,atpresent,fromtheinscriptions.

Itwasidentifiedwiththatoftheempireitself,alwayscalled"thecountryofAsshur;"itenteredintothoseofbothkingsandprivatepersons,andwasalsoappliedtoparticularcities.WithAsshur,butapparentlyfarinferiortohiminthecelestialhierarchy,althoughcalledthegreatgods,wereassociatedtwelveotherdeities,whosenamesIhavegivenintableNo.3.SomeofthemmaypossiblybeidentifiedwiththedivinitiesoftheGreekPantheon,althoughitisscarcelywisetohazardconjectureswhichmusterelongbeagainabandoned.Thesetwelvegodsmayalsohavepresidedoverthetwelvemonthsoftheyear,andthevastnumberofstillinferiorgods,inoneinscription,Ibelieve,statedtobenolessthan4000,overthedaysoftheyear,variousphenomenaandproductionsofnature,andthecelestialbodies.Itisdifficulttounderstandsuchasystemofpolytheism,unlesswesupposethatwhilst

therewasbutonesupremegod,representedsometimesunderatriuneform,alltheso-calledinferiorgodswereoriginallymerenamesforeventsandoutwardthings,orsymbolsandmyths.Althoughatonetimegenerallyacceptedassuchevenbythecommonpeople,theirtruemeaningwasonlyknowninacorruptedagetothepriests,bywhomtheywereturnedintoamysteryandatrade.Itmay,indeed,beinferredfrommanypassagesintheScriptures,thatasystemoftheologynotfardifferingfromtheAssyrianprevailedattimesamongsttheJewsthemselves.Asshurisgenerally,ifnotalways,typifiedbythewingedfigureinthecircle.[272]

ThequestionastothespaceoccupiedbythecityofNinevehatthetimeofitsgreatestprosperityisstillfarfrombeingsetatrest.Col.Rawlinson,foundinghisopinionuponthenamesonbricksfromtheseveral

sites,believestheinclosuresofNimroud,Kouyunjik,andKhorsabad,andthesmallmoundsofShereef-Khan,scarcelythreemilesfromKouyunjik,aswellasothersintheimmediateneighbourhood,tobetheremainsofdistinctcities.HewouldevenseparatethemoundofNebbiYunusfromKouyunjik,identifyingtheformerwithNineveh,andmakingthelatterameresuburb.Aglanceattheplanoftheruinswillshowthisconjecturetobequiteuntenable.Discoveriesinbothmoundsprovethattheybelongtonearlythesameperiod,andthatNebbiYunusisthemorerecentofthetwo.ThesuppositionthatanyofthesegroupsofmoundsrepresentalonethecityofNinevehcaninnowaybereconciledwiththeaccountsin

7/31/2019 Ninevah


ScriptureandintheGreekauthors,whichsoremarkablycoincideastoitsextent;adifficultywhichleadsCol.Rawlinsontosay,thatalltheseruins"formedoneofthatgroupofcitieswhich,inthetimeoftheprophetJonah,wereknownbythecommonnameofNineveh."Itisindeedtrue,that,onbricksfromdifferentmounds,distinctnamesappeartobegiventoeachlocality,andthatthosefromKouyunjikareinscribedwiththenameofNineveh,whilstthosefromNimroudandKhorsabadbearotherswhichhavenotyetbeensatisfactorilydeciphered.Thesenamesareprecededbyadeterminativemonogramassumedtosignifyacity,butwhichundoubtedlyalsoappliestoafortorfortifiedpalace.NahumdescribesNinevehasacityofmanystrongholdsandgates,[273]andsuchIbelieveittohavebeen,eachfortorstrongholdhavingadifferentname.Themostimportant,asitwasthebestdefended,mayatonetimehavebeenthepalaceatKouyunjik,whichbeingespeciallycalledNineveh,gaveitsnametothewholecity.BynoothersuppositioncanwereconciletheunitedtestimonyofancientwritersastothegreatsizeofNinevehwiththepresentremains.

Itisverydoubtfulwhetherthesefortifiedinclosurescontainedmanybuildingsbesidetheroyalpalaces,andsuchtemplesandpublicedificesaswereattachedtothem.AtNimroud,excavationsweremadeinvariouspartsoftheinclosedspace,anditwascarefullyexaminedwithaviewtoascertainwhetheranyfoundationsorremainsofhousesstillexisted.Nonewerediscoveredexceptatthesouth-easterncorner,wheretheheightof

theearthabovetheusuallevelatonceshowedtheexistenceofruins.Inmostpartsoftheinclosure,thenaturalsoilseemsnevertohavebeendisturbed,andinsomeplacestheconglomeraterockisalmostdenudedofearth.

SuchisalsothecaseoppositeMosul.Theremainsofoneortwobuildingsappeartoexistwithintheinclosure;butinthegreaterparttherearenoindicationswhateverofancientedifices,andtheconglomeraterockis,asatNimroud,onalevelwiththesurroundingsoil.

AtKhorsabad,thegreaterpartoftheinclosedspaceissomuch_below_ thesurroundingcountry,thatitiscoveredwithamarshformedbythesmallriverKhauser,whichflowsneartheruins.Withinthewalls,which

arescarcelymorethanamilesquare,canonlybetracedtheremainsofoneortwobuildings,andofapropylæum,standingbelowtheplatform,andabovetwohundredyardsfromtheascenttothepalace[274],buttheyareatonceperceivedbywell-definedinequalitiesinthesoil.

IfthewallsformingtheinclosuresofKhorsabadandotherAssyrianruinsweretheouterdefencesofacity,abruptlyfacingtheopencountry,itisdifficulttoaccountforthefactofthepalacehavingbeenbuiltinthesameline,andactuallyformingpartofthem.Allaccesstoitmusthavebeenstronglyfortified,andeventheviewoverthesurroundingcountry,thechiefobjectofsuchaposition,musthavebeenshutout.

Afterseveralcarefulexcavationsoftheruinsandofthespacesinclosed

bytherampartsofearth,Iamstillinclinedtotheopinionthattheywereroyaldwellingswiththeirdependentbuildings,andparksorparadises,fortifiedlikethepalace-templesofEgypt,capableofstandingaprolongedsiege,andaplaceofrefugefortheinhabitantsincaseofinvasion.Theymayhavebeencalledbydifferentnames,buttheywereallincludedwithintheareaofthatgreatcityknowntotheJewsandtotheGreeksasNineveh.Iwillnotpretendtosaythatthewholeofthisvastspacewasthicklyinhabitedorbuiltupon.AsIhaveelsewhereobserved,wemustnotjudgeofEasterncitiesbythoseofEurope.[275]InAsia,gardensandorchards,containingsuburbsandevendistinctvillages,

7/31/2019 Ninevah


collectedroundawalledcityareallincludedbythenativesunderonegeneralname.SuchisthecasewithIsfahanandDamascus,andsuchIbelieveittohavebeenwithancientNineveh.

Afewremarksarenecessaryontheadditionalinformationaffordedbyrecentdiscoveriesastothearchitectureandarchitecturaldecorations,externalandinternal,oftheAssyrianpalaces.Theinscriptionsontheirwalls,especiallyonthoseofKouyunjikandKhorsabad,appeartocontainimportantandevenminutedetails,notonlyastotheirgeneralplanandmodeofconstruction,butevenastothematerialsemployedfortheirdifferentparts,andfortheobjectsofsculptureandornamentsplacedinthem.ThisfactfurnishesanotherremarkableanalogybetweentherecordsoftheJewishandtheAssyriankings.Tothehistoryoftheirmonarchsandoftheirnation,theHebrewchroniclershaveaddedafullaccountofthebuildingandadornmentsofthetempleandpalacesofSolomon.Inbothcases,fromtheuseoftechnicalwords,wecanscarcelyhopetounderstand,withanydegreeofcertainty,allthedetails.Itisimpossibletocomprehend,bythehelpofthedescriptionsalone,theplanorappearanceofthetempleofSolomon.ThisarisesnotonlyfromourbeingunacquaintedwiththeexactmeaningofvariousHebrewarchitecturalterms,butalsofromthedifficultyexperiencedeveninordinarycases,ofrestoringfrommeredescriptionanedificeofanykind.IntheAssyrianinscriptionswelabor,ofcourse,understillgreaterdisadvantages.Thelanguageinwhichtheyarewrittenisasyetbutveryimperfectlyknown,

andalthoughwemaybeabletoexplainwithsomeconfidencethegeneralmeaningofthehistoricalparagraphs,yetwhenwecometotechnicalwordsrelatingtoarchitecture,evenwithaveryintimateacquaintancewiththeAssyriantongue,wecouldscarcelyhopetoascertaintheirprecisesignification.Ontheotherhand,thematerials,andthegeneralplanoftheAssyrianpalacesarestillpreserved,whilstofthegreatedificesoftheJews,notafragmentofmasonry,northesmallestremainsarelefttoguideus.Thearchitectureoftheonepeople,however,maybeillustratedbythatoftheother.Withthehelpofthesacredbooks,andoftheruinsofthepalacesofNineveh,togetherwiththatofcotemporaryandlaterremains,aswellasfromcustomsstillexistingintheEast,wemay,toacertainextent,restoretheprincipalbuildingsofbothnations.

BeforesuggestingageneralrestorationoftheroyaledificesofNineveh,IshallendeavortopointouttheanalogieswhichappeartoexistbetweentheiractualremainsandwhatisrecordedofthetempleandpalacesofSolomon.Inthefirstplace,asSennacheribinhisinscriptionsdeclareshimselftohavedone,theJewishkingsentthebearersofburdensandthehewersintothemountainstobringgreatstones,costlystones,andhewedstones[276],tolaythefoundations,whichwereprobablyartificialplatforms,resemblingtheAssyrianmounds,thoughconstructedofmoresolidmaterials.Wehavetheremainsofsuchaterraceorstageofstonemasonry,perhapsbuiltbykingSolomonhimself,atBaalbec.Theenormoussizeofsomeofthehewnstonesexistinginthatstructure,andofthosestillseeninthequarries,somebeingmorethansixtyfeetlong,hasexcitedthewonderofmoderntravellers.Thedimensionsofthetempleof

Jerusalem,threescorecubitslong[277],twentybroad,andthirtyhigh,weremuchsmallerthanthoseofthegreatedificesexploredinAssyria.Solomon'sownpalace,however,appearstohavebeenconsiderablylarger,andtohavemorenearlyapproachedinitsproportionsthoseofthekingsofNineveh,foritwasonehundredcubitslong,fiftybroad,andthirtyhigh."Theporchbeforethetemple,"twentycubitsbyten,[278]mayhavebeenapropylæum,suchaswasdiscoveredatKhorsabadinfrontofthepalace.Thechambers,withtheexceptionoftheoracle,wereexceedinglysmall,thelargestbeingonlysevencubitsbroad,"forwithout,_inthewall_ofthehouse,hemadenumerousrestsroundabout,that_thebeams_

7/31/2019 Ninevah


shouldnotbefastenedinthewallsofthehouse."Thewordsinitalicsareinsertedinourversiontomakegoodthesense,andmayconsequentlynotconveytheexactmeaning,whichmaybe,thatthesechamberswerethusnarrowthatthebeamsmightbesupportedwithouttheuseofpillars,areasonalreadysuggestedforthenarrownessofthegreaternumberofchambersintheAssyrianpalaces.Thesesmallerroomsappeartohavebeenbuiltroundalargecentralchamber,calledtheoracle,thewholearrangementthuscorrespondingwiththehallsandsurroundingroomsatNimroud,Khorsabad,andKouyunjik.Theoracleitselfwastwentycubitssquare,smallerfarindimensionsthantheNinevehhalls;butitwastwentycubits_high_--animportantfact,illustrativeofAssyrianarchitecture,forasthebuildingwasthirtycubitsinheight,theoraclemustnotonlyhavebeenmuchloftierthantheadjoiningchambers,butmusthavehadanupperstructureoftencubits.[279]Withinitwerethetwocherubimofolivewoodtencubitshigh,withwingseachfivecubitslong,"andhecarvedallthehousearoundwithcarvedfiguresofcherubimandpalmtrees,andopenflowers,withinandwithout."ThecherubimhavebeendescribedbyBiblicalcommentatorsasmythicfigures,unitingthehumanheadwiththebodyofalion,oranox,andthewingsofaneagle.[280]IfforthepalmtreeswesubstitutethesacredtreeoftheNinevehsculptures,andfortheopenflowerstheAssyriantulip-shapedornament--objectsmostprobablyverynearlyresemblingeachother--wefindthattheoracleofthetemplewasalmostidentical,ingeneralformandinitsornaments,withsomeofthechambersofNimroudandKhorsabad.Inthe

Assyrianhalls,too,thewingedhuman-headedbullswereonthesideofthewall,andtheirwings,likethoseofthecherubim,"touchedoneanotherinthemidstofthehouse."[281]Thedimensionsofthesefigureswereinsomecasesnearlythesame,namely,fifteenfeetsquare.Thedoorswerealsocarvedwithcherubimandpalmtrees,andopenflowers,andthus,withtheotherpartsofthebuilding,correspondedwiththoseoftheAssyrianpalaces.OnthewallsatNinevehtheonlyadditionappearstohavebeentheintroductionofthehumanformandtheimageoftheking,whichwereanabominationtotheJews.ThepomegranatesandliliesofSolomon'stemplemusthavebeennearlyidenticalwiththeusualAssyrianornament,inwhich,andparticularlyatKhorsabad,thepomegranatefrequentlytakestheplaceofthetulipandthecone.

ButthedescriptiongivenbyJosephusoftheinteriorofoneofSolomon'shouses,alreadyquotedbyMr.Fergussoninsupportofhisingeniousarguments,evenmorecompletelycorrespondswith,andillustratesthechambersinthepalacesofNineveh."Solomonbuiltsomeofthese(houses)withstonesoftencubits,and_wainscotedthewallswithotherstonesthatweresawed_,andwereofgreatvalue,suchasweredugoutofthebowelsoftheearth,forornamentsoftemples,&c.Thearrangementofthecuriousworkmanshipofthesestoneswasinthreerows;butthefourthwaspre-eminentforthebeautyofitssculpture,foronitwererepresentedtrees,andallsortsofplants,withtheshadowscausedbytheirbranchesandtheleavesthathungdownfromthem.Thesetreesandplantscoveredthestonethatwasbeneaththem,andtheirleaveswerewroughtsowonderfullythinandsubtile,thattheyappearedalmostinmotion;butthe

restofthewall,uptotheroof,wasplasteredover,and,asitwere,wroughtoverwithvariouscolorsandpictures."[282]

Tocompletetheanalogybetweenthetwoedifices,itwouldappearthatSolomonwassevenyearsbuildingthetemple,andSennacheribaboutthesametimebuildinghisgreatpalaceatKouyunjik.[283]

Theceiling,roof,andbeamsofthetemplewereofcedarwood.ThediscoveriesintheruinsatNimroudshowthatthesamepreciouswoodwasusedintheAssyrianedifices;andthekingofNineveh,aswelearnfrom

7/31/2019 Ninevah


theinscriptions,employedmen,preciselyasSolomonhaddone,tocutitinMountLebanon.FirwasalsoemployedintheJewishbuildings,andprobablyinthoseofAssyria.[284]

IntheproposedrestorationofthepalaceatKouyunjikfromtheexistingremains,thebuildingdoesnotfacethecardinalpointsofthecompass.Iwill,however,assume,forconveniencesake,thatitstandsduenorthandsouth.Tothewest,therefore,itimmediatelyoverlookedtheTigris;andonthatsidewasoneofitsprincipalfaçades.Theedificemusthaverisenontheveryedgeoftheplatform,thefootofwhichwasatthattimewashedbytheriver.If,therefore,therewereanyaccesstothepalaceontheriverfront,itmustnecessarilyhavebeenbyaflightofsteps,oraninclinedwayleadingdowntothewater'sedge,andtheremighthavebeengreatstairsparalleltothebasementwallasatPersepolis.Althoughfromthefactoftherehavingbeenagrandentrancetothepalaceonthisside,itishighlyprobablethatsomesuchapproachonceexisted,noremainswhateverofithavebeendiscovered.Thewesternfaçade,liketheeastern,wasformedbyfivepairsofhuman-headedbulls,andnumerouscolossalfigures[285],formingthreedistinctgateways.

Theprincipalapproachtothepalaceappears,however,tohavebeenontheeasternside,wherethegreatbullsbearingtheannalsofSennacheribstillstand.InthefrontispieceIhavebeenable,bytheassistanceofMr.Fergusson,togivearestorationofthismagnificentfaçadeand

entrance.Inclinedways,orbroadflightsofsteps,appeartohaveleduptoitfromthefootoftheplatform,andtheremainsofthem,consistingofhugesquaredstones,arestillseenintheravines,whicharebuttheancientascents,deepenedbythewinterrainsofcenturies.Fromthisgrandentrancedirectaccesscouldbehadtoalltheprincipalhallsandchambersinthepalace;thatonthewesternface,asappearsfromtheruins,onlyopenedintoasetofeightrooms.

Thechambershithertoexploredappeartohavebeengroupedroundthreegreathalls.Itmustbeborneinmind,however,thatthepalaceextendedconsiderablytothenorth-eastofthegrandentrance,andthattheremayhavebeenanotherhall,andsimilardependentchambersinthatpartoftheedifice.Onlyapartofthepalacehasbeenhithertoexcavated,andwe

arenotinpossessionofaperfectground-planofit.

ThegeneralarrangementofthechambersatKouyunjikissimilartothatofKhorsabad,thoughtheextentofthebuildingisverymuchgreater.ItisalsotoberemarkedthattheKhorsabadmoundfallsgraduallytotheleveloftheplain,apparentlyshowingtheremainsofasuccessionofbroadterraces,andthatpartsofthepalace,suchasthepropylæa,wereactuallybeneaththeplatform,andremovedsomedistancefromitinthemidstofthewalledinclosure.AtKouyunjik,however,thewholeoftheroyaledifice,withitsdependentbuildings,appearstohavestoodonthesummitoftheartificialbasement[286],whoseloftyperpendicularsidescouldonlyhavebeenaccessiblebysteps,orinclinedways.Nopropylæa,orotheredificesconnectedwiththepalace,haveasyetbeendiscovered

belowtheplatform.

Theinscriptionsappeartorefertofourdistinctpartsofthepalace,threeofwhich,inhabitedbythewomen,seemsubsequentlytohavebeenreducedtoone.Itisnotclearwhethertheywereallontheground-floor,orwhethertheyformeddifferentstories.Mr.Fergusson,inhisingeniousworkontherestorationofthepalacesofNineveh,inwhichhehas,withgreatlearningandresearch,fullyexaminedthesubjectofthearchitectureoftheAssyriansandancientPersians,availinghimselfofthefactsthenfurnishedbythediscoveries,endeavorstodividethe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Khorsabadpalace,afterthemannerofmodernMussulmanhouses,intotheSalamlikorapartmentsofthemen,andtheHaremorthoseofthewomen.Thedivisionhesuggests,must,ofcourse,dependuponconjecture;butitmay,Ithink,beconsideredashighlyprobable,untilfullerandmoreaccuratetranslationsoftheinscriptionsthancanyetbemademayfurnishuswithsomepositivedataonthesubject.IntheruinsofKouyunjikthereisnothing,asfarasIamaware,tomarkthedistinctionbetweenthemaleandfemaleapartments.OfatemplenoremainshaveasyetbeenfoundatKouyunjik,noristhereanyhighconicalmoundasatNimroudandKhorsabad.

InalltheAssyrianedificeshithertoexplored,wehavethesamegeneralinteriorplan.Onthefoursidesofthegreathallsaretwoorthreenarrowparallelchambersopeningoneintotheother.Mostofthemhavedoorwaysateachandleadingintosmallerrooms,whichhavenootheroutlet.Itseemshighlyprobablethatthisuniformplanwasadoptedwithreferencetothepeculiararchitecturalarrangementsrequiredbythebuilding,andIagreewithMr.Fergussoninattributingittothemoderesortedtoforlightingtheapartments.

InmyformerworkIexpressedabeliefthatthechambersreceivedlightthroughanopeningintheroof.Althoughthismayhavebeenthecaseinsomeinstances,yetrecentdiscoveriesnowprovethattheAssyrianpalaceshadmorethanonestory.Suchbeingthefact,itisevidentthatother

meansmusthavebeenadoptedtoadmitdaylighttotheinnerroomsontheground-floor.Mr.Fergusson'ssuggestion,thattheupperpartofthehallsandprincipalchamberswasformedbyarowofpillarssupportingtheceilingandadmittingafreecirculationoflightandair,appearstometomeet,toacertainextent,thedifficulty.Ithas,moreover,beenborneoutbysubsequentdiscoveries,andbytherepresentationofalargebuilding,apparentlyapalace,ononeofthebas-reliefsdiscoveredatKouyunjik.IntherestorationoftheexterioroftheKouyunjikpalaceformingthefrontispiecetothisvolume,asomewhatsimilarcapitalhasbeenadoptedinpreferencetothattakenbyMr.FergussonfromPersepolis,which,althoughundoubtedlyliketheotherarchitecturaldetailsofthosecelebratedruins,Assyrianincharacter,arenotauthorisedbyanyknownAssyrianremains.

Arowofpillars,orofalternatepillarsandmasonry,wouldanswerthepurposeintended,iftheyopenedintoawell-lightedhall.Yetinnerchambers,suchasarefoundintheruinsofKouyunjik,musthaveremainedinalmostentiredarkness.Anditisnotimprobablethatsuchwasthecase,tojudgefrommodernEasternhouses,inwhichtheabsenceoflightisconsideredessentialtosecureacooltemperature.Thesculpturesanddecorationsinthemcouldthenonlybeseenbytorchlight.Thegreathallswereprobablyinsomecasesentirelyopentotheair,likethecourt-yardsofthemodernhousesofMosul,whosewallsarestilladornedwithsculpturedalabaster.Whentheywerecoveredintheroofwasbornebyenormouspillarsofwoodorbrickwork,androsesofarabovethesurroundingpartofthebuilding,thatlightwasadmittedbycolumnsand

buttressesimmediatelybeneaththeceiling.Itismostprobablethatthereweretwoorthreestoriesofchambersopeningintothem,eitherbycolumnsorbywindows.SuchappearstohavebeenthecaseinSolomon'stemple;forJosephustellsusthatthegreatinnersanctuarywassurroundedbysmallrooms,"overtheseroomswereotherrooms,andothersabovethem,equalbothintheirmeasureandnumbers,andthatthesereachedtoaheightequaltothe_lowerpart_ofthehouse,fortheupperhadnobuildingsaboutit."WehavealsoanillustrationofthisarrangementofchambersinthemodernhousesofsomepartsofPersia,inwhichagreatcentralhall,calledanIwan,risestothetopofthebuilding,andhassmallroomsin

7/31/2019 Ninevah


twoorthreeseparatestories,openingbywindowsintoit,whilsttheinnerchambers,havingnowindowsatall,havenomorelightthanthatwhichreachesthemthroughthedoor.Sometimesthesesidechambersopenintoacentrecourt,asIhavesuggestedmayhavebeenthecaseintheNinevehpalaces,thenaprojectingroofofwoodworkprotectsthecarvedandpaintedwallsfrominjurybytheweather.Curtainsandawningswerealsosuspendedabovethewindowsandentrances,towardofftheraysofthesun.

AlthoughnoremainsoreventracesofpillarshavehithertobeendiscoveredintheAssyrianruins,Inowthinkithighlyprobable,assuggestedbyMr.Fergusson,thattheywereusedtosupporttheroof.Itiscurious,however,thatnostonepedestals,uponwhichwoodencolumnsmayhaverested,havebeenfoundintheruins,noraretheremarksofthemonthepavement.Icanscarcelyaccountfortheentireabsenceofallsuchtraces.However,unlesssomesupportofthiskindwereresortedto,itisimpossiblethateventhelargechambersatKouyunjik,withoutincludingthecentralhalls,couldhavebeencoveredin.Thegreathall,orhouseasitisrenderedintheBible,[287]oftheforestofLebanonwasthirtycubitshigh,uponfourrowsofcedarpillarswithcedarbeamsuponthepillars.TheAssyriankings,wehaveseen,cutwoodinthesameforestsasKingSolomon;andprobablyuseditforthesamepurposes,namely,forpillars,beams,andceilings.Thedimensionsofthishall,100cubits(about150feet)by50cubits(75feet),verymuchresemblethoseofthe

centrehallsofthepalacesofNineveh."Theporchofpillars"wasfiftycubitsinlength;equal,therefore,tothebreadthofthehall,ofwhichIpresumeittohavebeenaninclosedspaceattheupperend,whilst"theporchforthethronewherehemightjudge,eventheporchofjudgment...coveredwithcedarwoodfromonesideofthefloortotheother,"wasprobablyaraisedplacebeneathit,correspondingwithasimilarplatformwherethehostandguestsofhonorareseatedinamodernEasternhouse.SupposingthethreepartsofthebuildingtohavebeenarrangedasIhavesuggested,weshouldhaveanexactcounterpartoftheminthehallofaudienceofthePersianpalaces.TheupperpartoftheroominwhichIhavefrequentlyseenthegovernorofIsfahan,wasdividedfromtherestofamagnificenthallbycolumns,andhisthronewasaraisedplaceofcarvedwoodworkadornedwithrichstuffs,ivory,andotherpreciousmaterials.

Suppliantsandattendantsstoodoutsidethelineofpillars,andtheofficersofthecourtwithin.SuchalsomayhavebeentheinteriorarrangementofthegreathallsintheAssyrianedifices.

ThattheNinevitepalaceshadmorethanonestory,atleastinsomepartsifnotinall,cannownolongerbedoubted.Theinscriptionsappeartodescribedistinctlytheupperrooms,andatKouyunjik,asithasbeenseen,aninclinedwaywasdiscoveredleadingtothem.Withouttherehadbeenanupperstructure,itwouldbeimpossibletoaccountfortheenormousaccumulationofrubbish,consistingchieflyofremainsofbuildings,overtheruinsofKouyunjikandKhorsabad.Theseupperroomswereprobablybuiltofsundriedbricksandwood,butprincipallyofthelattermaterial,andmayhavebeenconnectedwiththelowerbywinding

staircases,asinthetempleofSolomon,aswellasbyinclinedways.Theroofswereflat,asthoseofallEasternhousesaretothisday;and,assuggestedbyMr.Fergusson,[288]theymayhavebeencrownedbyawoodentalar,orplatform,andaltarsuponwhichsacrificeswereoffered,--"Thehousesuponwhoseroofstheyhaveburnedincenseuntoallthehostofheaven,andhavepouredoutdrink-offeringstoothergods."[289]

IhavealreadydescribedtheinternaldecorationsoftheAssyrianpalaces,[290]andhavelittlemoretoadduponthesubject.ThewallsofKouyunjikweremoreelaboratelydecoratedthanthoseofNimroudand

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Khorsabad.Almosteverychamberexplored,andtheyamounttoaboveseventy,waspanelledwithalabasterslabscarvedwithnumerousfiguresandwiththeminutestdetails.Eachroomappearstohavebeendedicatedtosomeparticularevent,andineach,apparently,wastheimageofthekinghimself.Infact,thewallsrecordedinsculpturewhattheinscriptionsdidinwriting,--thewholehistoryofSennacherib'sreign,hisgreatdeedsinpeaceaswellasinwar.ItwillberemarkedthatwhilstinotherAssyrianedificesthekingisfrequentlyrepresentedtakinganactivepartinwar,slayinghisenemies,andfightingbeneathabesiegedcity,heisneverrepresentedatKouyunjikotherwisethaninanattitudeoftriumph,inhischariotoronhisthrone,receivingthecaptivesandthespoil.Norisheeverseentorturinghisprisoners,orputtingthemtodeathwithhisownhand.

Therewerechambers,however,inthepalaceofSennacherib,aswellasinthoseofNimroudandKhorsabad,whosewallsweresimplycoatedwithplaster,likethewallsofBelshazzar'spalaceatBabylon.[291]Theymayhavebeenrichlyornamentedincolorwithfiguresofmenandanimals,aswellaswithelegantdesigns;ortheymayhavebeenpanelledwithcedarwainscoting,asthechambersinthetempleandpalacesofSolomon,andinthegreatedificesofBabylon.Gilding,too,appearstohavebeenextensivelyusedindecoration,andsomeofthegreatsphinxesmayhavebeenoverlaidwithgold,likethecherubiminSolomon'stemple.[292]

AtKouyunjik,thepavementslabswerenotinscribedasatNimroud;butthosebetweenthewingedbullsatsomeoftheentrances,werecarvedwithanelaborateandveryelegantpattern.Thedoorswereprobablyofwood,giltandadornedwithpreciousmaterials,likethegatesofthetempleofJerusalem,andtheyappeartohaveturnedinstonesockets,foramongsttheruinswerefoundmanyblackstoneshollowedinthecentre,andbearinganinscriptioninthesewords:"Sennacherib,thegreatking,kingofAssyria,broughtthisstonefromthedistantmountains,anduseditforthesocketsofthepillarsofthedoorsofhispalace."

TowardofftheglareofanEasternsunhangingsorcurtainsofgaycolorsandofrichmaterialswereprobablysuspendedtothepillarssupportingtheceiling,ortowoodenpolesraisedforthepurpose,asinthepalaces

ofBabylonandShushan.Suchhangings,aswehaveseen,appeartobedescribedinthetabletsofkingNebuchadnezzar.Thefrontispiecetothisvolumewillenablethereadertounderstandhowtheywereused.Thisengravingfromabeautifulwater-colordrawing,madebyMr.BaynesunderthesuperintendenceofMr.Fergusson,representstheEasternfaçadeandthegreatentrancetothepalaceofSennacherib,astheyaresupposedoriginallytohavebeen.Thelowerpartofthebuildingactuallyexists,andisdrawntoscale;theupperpartofcourseismainlyfoundeduponconjecture;buttheprecedingremarksmayshowthatwearenotaltogetherwithoutmaterialstoauthorisesomesuchrestoration.Theedificerepresentedinthebas-reliefdiscoveredatKouyunjikhasfurnishedsomeofthearchitecturaldetails,thebattlementedfinishtothewallsisstillseenatKouyunjikandNimroud,andthevariousdecorations

introducedinotherplacesarealltakenfromAssyrianmonuments.Thetwopoleswithstreamersintheforeground,arefromabas-reliefatKhorsabad.ThesculpturesatthesidesofthestepsarethosefromthedescendingpassageatKouyunjik.ThestonefacingoftheplatformisthatofthebasementofthetoweratNimroud.Thelions,Assyrianincharacter,areplacedonthestepsconjecturally,andthestepsthemselvesarerestored.ThedesignuponthepavementisfoundonslabsattheentrancesatKouyunjik.

TheexcavationscarriedonatNimroudduringthelastexpeditionhave

7/31/2019 Ninevah


enabledmetorestore,toacertainextent,theseveralbuildingsontheplatform,andtoobtainsomeideaoftheiroriginalappearance.Ontheartificialplatform,builtofregularlayersofsundriedbricksinsomeparts,andentirelyofrubbishinothers,butcasedonallsideswithsolidstonemasonry,stoodatonetimeatleastninedistinctbuildings.Betweeneachwasaterrace,pavedwithstone,orwithlargekiln-burntbricks,fromoneandahalftotwofeetsquare.Atthenorth-westerncornerrosethegreattower,thetombofthefounderoftheprincipalpalace.Itsbasementwasencasedwithmassivemasonryofstone,relievedbyrecessesandotherarchitecturalornaments.Theupperpartbuiltofbrick,wasmostprobablypainted,likethepalacesofBabylon,withfiguresandmythicemblems.Itssummit,Iconjecture,tohaveconsistedofseveralrecedinggradineslikethetopoftheblackobelisk,andIwouldventuretocrownitwithanaltaronwhichmayhaveburnttheeternalfire.Adjoiningthistowerwere,twosmalltemples,dedicatedtoAssyriangods.Oneactuallyabuttedonit,althoughtherewasnocommunicationwhatever,asfarasIcoulddiscover,betweentheinteriorofthetwobuildings;theotherwasabout100feettotheeast.Theywerebothadornedwithsculptures,andhadevidentlybeenmorethanonestoryhigh,andtheirbeamsandceilingswereofcedarwood.Theycontainedstatuesofthegods,andthefullestrecordsofthereignofthekingtheirfounder,engravedonimmensemonoliths.Betweenthemwasawayuptotheplatformfromthenorth.

Betweenthesmalltemplesandthenorth-westpalaceweretwogreatflightsofsteps,orinclinedways,leadingupfromthemarginoftheriver.Theirsitesarestillmarkedbydeepravines.Theyopeneduponabroadpavedterrace.Thenorth-westpalacehavingbeensofullydescribedinmyformerwork,IneedonlyaddthatIhavenowbeenabletoascertainthepositionofitsprincipalfaçadeandentrance.Itwastothenorth,facingthetower,andnearlyresembledthegrandapproachestoKouyunjikandKhorsabad.Thetwogatewaysformedbythesphinxeswiththehumanformtothewaist,appeartohaveflankedagrandcentreportaltowhichtheywereunitedonbothsides,asinSennacherib'spalace,bycolossalfiguresofhuman-headedbullsandlionsandwingedpriests.Theremainsofnoothergreatentrancetothepalacehaveyetbeendiscovered,butIhavelittledoubtfromseveralindicationsintheruins,thattherewasa

similarfaçadeontheriverside,andthataterrace,ascendedbybroadflightsofsteps,overlookedtheTigris.

Tothesouthofthenorth-westpalacewasathirdascenttothesummitoftheplatform,alsomarkedbyaravineinthesideofthemound.Beyonditweretheupperchambers,builtbythefourthkinginsuccessionfromSardanapalus,probablyovertheremainsofanearlieredifice.Excavationsmadeindifferentpartsofthesmallmoundcoveringtheirruins,showthattheyconsistedofthreedistinctgroups,builtroundasolidcentralmassofsundriedbricks.Thegreataccumulationofearthabovethem,provesthatthisbuildingmusthavehadmorethanonestory.

TheupperchamberswereseparatedfromthepalaceofEssarhaddon,themost

southernonthissideoftheplatform,byafourthgrandapproachtotheterraces.Remainsofgreatblocksofstone,ofwingedbulls,andofcolossalfiguresinyellowlimestone,werefoundintheravine.

Essarhaddon'spalacewasraisedsomefeetabovethenorth-westandcentreedifices.Ithasbeensoentirelydestroyedbyfire,andbytheremovaloftheslabsfromitswalls,thatacompleteground-planofitcannotberestored.Inthearrangementofitschambers,asfarasweareabletojudgefromtheruins,itdifferedfromotherAssyrianbuildingswithwhichweareacquainted.Thehall,above220feetlong,and100broad,opening

7/31/2019 Ninevah


atthenorthernendbyagatewayofwingedbullsonaterrace,whichoverlookedthegrandapproachandtheprincipalpalaces,andattheoppositeendhavingatripleportalguardedbythreepairsofcolossalsphinxes,whichcommandedtheopencountryandtheTigriswindingthroughtheplain,musthavebeenatrulymagnificentfeatureinthispalace.Itoccupiedthecorneroftheplatform,andanapproachofwhichconsiderableremainsstillexistledupfromtheplaintoitssouthernface.Aroundthegrandhallappeartohavebeenbuiltanumberofsmallchambers;andthisAssyrianbuildingprobablyanswersinitsgeneralplan,morethananyotheryetdiscovered,tothedescriptionsintheBibleofthepalaceofSolomon,especiallyifweassumethattheantechamber,dividedintotwoparts,correspondswiththeporticooftheJewishstructures.

ThepalaceofEssarhaddonwasconsiderablybelowthelevelofthatofhisgrandson,andwasseparatedfromitbywhatappears,fromaverydeepandwideravine,tohavebeentheprincipalapproachtotheplatform.Thesouth-eastedificewasveryinferior,bothinthesizeofitsapartmentsandinthematerialsemployedinitsconstruction,totheotherroyalbuildings.Itwasprobablybuiltwhentheempirewasfastfallingtodecay,and,asisusualinsuchcases,theartsseemtohavedeclinedwiththepowerofthepeople.

Returningnorthwards,wecometotheonlytracesofanapproachontheeasternsideoftheplatform,andconsequentlyfromtheinteriorofthe

walledinclosure.Itisremarkablethatthereshouldhavebeenbutoneonthisface;anditisevenmorecurious,thattheonlysidesofthemoundonwhichthereareanyremainsofwallsorfortifications,aretheeasternandnorthern,wheretheroyalresidenceswouldhaveoverlookedthecity,supposingittohavebeencontainedwithintheexistingrampartsofearth.Theedificesfacingwhatwould,inthatcase,havebeentheopencountry,wereleftapparentlydefenceless.

Onthewestsideoftheplatformnoactualruinshavebeendiscovered,althoughthereareundoubtedlytracesofbuildinginseveralplaces,andIthinkitnotimprobablethatatemple,orsomesimilaredifice,stoodthere.

Itonlyremainsformetomentionthepalaceinthecentreoftheplatform,foundedbythekingwhosenameisbelievedtoreadDivanubarorDivanubra,butrebuiltalmostentirelybyPulorTiglath-Pileser.Excavationscarriedonduringthesecondexpedition,broughttolightthewallsofafewadditionalchambersandnumerousfragmentsofinterestingsculptures.ButtheedificewassoutterlydestroyedbyEssarhaddon,whousedthematerialsintheconstructionofhisowndwelling-place,thatitisimpossibletoascertainitsgeneralplan,oreventhearrangementofanyofitsrooms.Thegreatinscribedbullsandtheobelisk,weknowtohavebeenofthetimeoftheolderking;andthebas-reliefsofbattlesandsieges,heapeduptogetherasifreadyforremoval,tohavebelongedtothelater.

Intherampartsofearth,markingtheinclosurewallofNimroudtothenorth,fifty-eighttowerscanstillbedistinctlytraced.Totheeasttherewereaboutfifty,butalltracesofsomeofthemareentirelygone.Tothesouththewallhasalmostdisappeared,sothatitcouldnothavebeenofgreatsizeorthicknessonthatside.Theleveloftheinclosureishere,however,considerablyabovetheplain,anditisnotimprobablethattheTigrisactuallyflowedbeneathpartofit,andthattheremainderwasdefendedbyawideanddeepditch,eithersuppliedbythesmallstreamstillrunningneartheruins,orbytheriver.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Atthesouth-easterncorneroftheinclosure,isamoundofconsiderableheight,andtheremainsofasquareedifice;theymayhavebeenafortorcastle.Isearchedinvainfortracesofgatesinthewallsonthenorthernside.Ahighdoublemound,whichprobablymarkstheruinsofanentrance,wasexcavated;butnostonemasonryorsculpturedfigureswerediscovered,asinasimilarmoundintheinclosureofKouyunjik.Iconclude,therefore,thatthegatewaysofthequarterofNinevehrepresentedbyNimroudwerenot,likethoseofthemorenortherndivisionsofthecity,adornedwithsculptures,butwerebuiltofthesamematerialsasthewalls,andwereeitherarchedorsquare,beingformed,likethegatesofmodernArabcities,bysimplebeamsofwood.

ItisevidentthattheinclosureofNimroudwasregularlyfortified,anddefendedbywallsbuiltforthepurposeofresistinganenemy,andsustainingaprolongedsiege.ThatofKhorsabadwaspreciselysimilar.Therealsotheplatform,onwhichthegreatpalacestood,formedpartofthewalls,--afactforwhichIcanscarcelyofferanysatisfactoryexplanation.Itwouldseemmoreconsistentwithsecuritythatthedwellingoftheking,thetemplesofthegods,andtheedificescontainingthearchivesandtreasuresofthekingdom,shouldhavebeeninthecentreofthefortifications,equallyprotectedonallsides.ThepalacesofNimroudandKouyunjik,builtonaplatform,washedbyadeepandbroadriver,were,toacertainextent,guardedfromtheapproachofanenemy.ButatKhorsabadsuchwasnotthecase.Theroyalresidenceoverlookedtheplain

country,andwasaccessiblefromit,unlessthesummitoftheplatformwerestronglyfortifiedonthewesternside,ofwhichthereisnotrace.

Ofthefortifiedinclosuresstillexisting,thatsurroundingKouyunjikisthemostremarkable,andwasbestcalculatedtowithstandtheattackofapowerfulandnumerousarmy.IgiveaplanoftheruinsfromMr.Rich'ssurvey,whichwillenablethereadertounderstandthefollowingdescription.[293]

[Illustration:PlanoftheInclosureWallsandDitchesatKouyunjik.]

Itsform,itwillbeperceived,wasirregular.Thesidefacingtheriver,includingthemoundsofKouyunjikandNebbi-Yunus(_a_),andthenorthern

(ornorth-western)(_b_),areatrightanglestoeachother,andinnearlyastraightline.Fromtheeasterncornerofthenorthernface,theinnerwall(_c_)formsthesegmentofacircletowardsthesouthernendofthewestern,thetwobeingonly873yardsapartattheirextremities(_d_).[294]Onthefoursidesaretheremainsoftowersandcurtains,andthewallsappeartohaveconsistedofabasementofstoneandanupperstructureofsundriedbricks.Thetopofthestonemasonrywasornamentedwithgradines,asatNimroud.

Thewesternwall(_a_)waswashedbytheriver,andneedednootherdefence.[295]Adeepditch,ofwhichtracesstillexist,appearstohavebeendugbeneaththenorthern(_b_).Thattothesouth(_d_)wasalsoprotectedbyadykeandtheTigris.Thesidemostaccessibletoanenemy

wasthattotheeast(_c_),anditwasaccordinglyfortifiedwithextraordinarycareandstrength.ThesmallriverKhauserflowsnearlyinadirectlinefromthehillstothenorth-easterncorneroftheinclosure,makesasweeptothesouth(at_e_)beforereachingit,andafterrunningforsomedistancebeneathaperpendicularbankformedbyconglomeratehills(_g_)paralleltothewalls,butaboutthreequartersofamilefromthem,againturnstothewestward(at_f_),andenterstheinclosurealmostinthecentre.Itthentraversesthisquarterofthecity,windsroundthebaseofKouyunjik,andfallsintotheTigris.Nearlyonehalfoftheeasternwallwas,consequently,providedwithnaturaldefences.The

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Khauserservedasaditch;andtheconglomerateridge,slightlyincreasedbyartificialmeans,asastronglineoffortification.Theremainsofoneormorerampartsofeartharestilltobetracedbetweenthestreamandtheinnerwall,buttheycouldnothavebeenofveryconsiderablesize.Thenorth-easternextremityoftheseouterdefencesappearstohavejoinedtheditchwhichwascarriedalongthenorthernfaceoftheinclosure,thuscompletingthefortificationinthispart.

Below,ortothesouthof,theentryoftheKhauserintotheinclosure,theinnerwallwasdefendedbyacompletesystemofoutworks.Inthefirstplaceadeepditch,aboutonehundredandfiftyfeetwide,wascutimmediatelybeneathit,andwasdividedforhalfitslengthintotwoseparateparts,betweenwhichwasarampart.Aparallelwall(_h_)wasthencarriedfromthebanksoftheKhausertothedykeonthesouthernsideoftheinclosure.Asecondditch,aboutonehundredandeightfeetwide,andofconsiderabledepth,probablysuppliedbytheKhauser,extendedfromthepointatwhichthatstreamturnstothewestward,asfarasthesouthernlineofdefences.Athirdwall(_i_),theremainsofwhichareaboveonehundredfeethighontheinnerface,abuttedtothenorthontheridgeofconglomeratehills(_g_),andcompletedtheouterdefences.Afewmoundsrisinginthelevelcountrybeyond,theprincipalofwhich,nearthesouthernextremityofthelines,iscalledTel-ez-zembil(theMoundoftheBasket),appeartohavebeenfortifiedoutposts,probablydetachedtowers,suchasarerepresentedinthebas-reliefsofKouyunjik.

Anenemycomingfromtheeast,thesideonwhichtheinclosurewasmostopentoattack,hadconsequentlyfirsttoforceastupendouswallstrengthenedbydetachedforts.Twodeepditchesandtwomorewalls,theinnerbeingscarcelyinferiorinsizetotheouter,hadthentobepassedbeforethecitycouldbetaken.[296]TheremainsstillexistingofthesefortificationsalmostconfirmthestatementsofDiodorusSiculus,thatthewallswereahundredfeethigh,andthatthreechariotscoulddriveuponthemabreast;andleadtotheconclusionthatindescribingtherampartsformingthecircuitroundthewholecity,ancienthistorianswereconfoundingthemwiththosewhichinclosedonlyaseparatequarteroraroyalresidence,astheyhavealsodoneinspeakingofBabylon.Whilsttheinnerwallswereconstructedofstoneandbrickmasonry,theouterappear

tohaveconsistedoflittleelsethanoftheearth,loosepebbles,andrubbledugoutfromtheditches,whichwerecutwithenormouslaborintothesolidconglomeraterock.[297]

ThewallsandditchesaroundKouyunjikwereafavouriterideduringmyresidenceamongtheruins.Thesummitoftheouterrampartscommandsanextensiveandbeautifulprospectoverallthegreatmounds,theplainsboundedbytheseveralmountainrangesofKurdistan,thewindingsoftheriver,andthetownofMosul."Niniue(thatwhichGodhimselfcalleththatGreatCitie)hathnotonestonestanding,whichmaygiuememorieofthebeingofatowne:oneEnglishmilefromitisaplacecalledMosul,asmallthing,rathertobeawitnesseoftheother'smightenesse,andGod'sjudgement,thanofanyfashionofmagnificenceinitselfe."[298]Suchare

thesimplethoughimpressivewordsofanoldEnglishtraveller,whoprobablylookeddownuponthesiteofNinevehfromthesamespottwocenturiesandahalfago.

Beatentracksfromtheneighbouringvillageshaveforagesled,andstilllead,throughtheruins.AlongthemArabsandKurdswiththeircamelsandladenbeastsmaybeseenslowlywendingtheirwaytothetown.Butthespacebetweenthewallsisdesertedexceptbythetimidgazelleandthejackalsandhyenaswhichmaketheirdensintheholesandcavesinthesidesofthemoundsandintherockybanksoftheancientditches.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


ThespringcalledbytheArabsDamlamajeh,anddescribedbyMr.Rich,[299]isasmallpoolofcoolandrefreshingwaterinanaturalcavern,theforepartofwhichisadornedwithanarch,cornice,andstonework,evidentlyofRomanorGreekconstruction.UponthemasonryarestilltobetracedthenamesofMrs.Rich,andofthecompanionsofthedistinguishedtraveller.

CONCLUSION.

Thetimewasdrawingnearformydeparture.OncemoreIwasabouttoleavetheruinsamidstwhichIhadspentsomanyhappyhours,andtowhichIwasboundbysomanypleasantandsolemnties;andprobablytoreturnnomore.

IonlywaitedthearrivalofAbde,thelatePashaofBaghdad,whowasnowonhiswaytohisnewgovernmentofDiarbekir.Hewastravellingwithalargecompanyofattendants,andwithoutastrongescortitwasscarcelyprudenttoventureonajourney.Itwasdoublynecessaryformetohaveproperprotection,asItookwithmethevaluablecollectionofbronzesandothersmallobjectsdiscoveredintheruins.Igladly,therefore,

availedmyselfofthisopportunityofjoiningsonumerousandpowerfulacaravan.

Atlength,aftertheusualEasterndelays,thePashaarrivedatMosul.Heremainedencampedoutsidethetownfortwoorthreedays,andduringthattimevisitedtheexcavations,hiscuriosityhavingbeenexcitedbythedescriptionhehadreceivedofthewondrousidolsdugoutoftheruins.Hemarvelledatwhathesaw,asaTurkmarvelsatstrangethingswhichhecanneitherunderstandnorexplain.Itwouldbeinvaintospeaktohimofthetrueobjectsofsuchresearches,theknowledgetheyimpart,thelessonstheyteach,orthethoughtstheybeget.

InthesepagesIhaveoccasionallyindulgedinreflectionssuggestedby

thescenesIhavehadtodescribe,andhaveventuredtopointoutthemoralofthestrangetaleIhavehadtorelate.IcannotbetterconcludethanbyshowingthespiritinwhichEasternphilosophyandMussulmanresignationcontemplatetheevidencesofancientgreatnessandcivilization,suddenlyrisingupinthemidstofmodernignoranceanddecay.AletterinmypossessioncontainedsotrueandcharacteristicapictureofthefeelingsthatsuchaneventexcitesinthemindofagoodMohammedan,thatIheregivealiteraltranslationofitscontents.ItwaswrittentoafriendofminebyaTurkishCadi,inreplytosomeinquiriesastothecommerce,population,andremainsofantiquityofanancientcity,inwhichdwelttheheadofthelaw.Theseareitswords:--

"MyIllustriousFriend,andJoyofmyLiver!

"Thethingyouaskofmeisbothdifficultanduseless.AlthoughIhavepassedallmydaysinthisplace,IhaveneithercountedthehousesnorhaveIinquiredintothenumberoftheinhabitants;andastowhatonepersonloadsonhismulesandtheotherstowsawayinthebottomofhisship,thatisnobusinessofmine.But,aboveall,astotheprevioushistoryofthiscity,GodonlyknowstheamountofdirtandconfusionthattheinfidelsmayhaveeatenbeforethecomingoftheswordofIslam.Itwereunprofitableforustoinquireintoit.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


"Oh,mysoul!oh,mylamb!seeknotafterthethingswhichconcerntheenot.Thoucamestuntous,andwewelcomedthee:goinpeace.

"Ofatruth,thouhastspokenmanywords;andthereisnoharmdone,forthespeakerisoneandthelistenerisanother.Afterthefashionofthypeoplethouhastwanderedfromoneplacetoanotheruntilthouarthappyandcontentinnone.We(praisebetoGod)werebornhere,andneverdesiretoquitit.Isitpossiblethenthattheideaofageneralintercoursebetweenmankindshouldmakeanyimpressiononourunderstandings?Godforbid!

"Listen,ohmyson!ThereisnowisdomequaluntothebeliefinGod!Hecreatedtheworld,andshallwelikenourselvesuntohiminseekingtopenetrateintothemysteriesofhiscreation?Shallwesay,beholdthisstarspinnethroundthatstar,andthisotherstarwithatailgoethandcomethinsomanyyears!Letitgo!Hefromwhosehanditcamewillguideanddirectit.

"Butthouwiltsayuntome,Standaside,ohman,forIammorelearnedthanthouart,andhaveseenmorethings.IfthouthinkestthatthouartinthisrespectbetterthanIam,thouartwelcome.IpraiseGodthatIseeknotthatwhichIrequirenot.ThouartlearnedinthethingsIcarenotfor;andasforthatwhichthouhastseenIdefileit.Willmuchknowledgecreatetheeadoublebelly,orwiltthouseek

Paradisewiththineeyes?"Oh,myfriend!Ifthouwiltbehappy,say,ThereisnoGodbutGod!Donoevil,andthuswiltthoufearneithermannordeath;forsurelythinehourwillcome!

"Themeekinspirit(ElFakir),"IMAUMALIZADE."

Onthe28thofAprilIbidalastfarewelltomyfaithfulArabfriends,andwithaheavyheartturnedfromtheruinsofancientNineveh.

THEEND.

[Illustration]

INDEX.

A.

_AbdePasha_,383,540.

_AbdiAgha_,52.

_Abd-ul-Azeez_,moundof,187.Hillsof,259.

_Abou-Jerdeh_,mound,186.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Abou-Khameera_,ruinsof,201,202.

_Abou-Maria_,excavationsat,278.

_Abou-Sheetha_,moundof,188.

_Abraham_thrownintothefurnacebyNimrod,403.

_Adremit_,villageof,338.

_Adrammelech_,nameof,accordingtoRawlinson,497.

_Æthiopia_,mentionedininscriptions,121.

_Afaij_,visittotribeof,438.Theirboats,443.Theirhuts,445.

_Agab_,SheikhoftheAfaij,446.

_Agammi_river,124,475.

_Agayl_,tribeof,395.

_Akhlat_,villageof,30.

_Akhtamar_,patriarchof,339.Visittotheislandof,_ib._ Churchof,_ib._

_Akkari_,seaoftheMediterranean,296.

_Akker-Kuf_,ruinof,382.

_Akko_,aYezidichief,42,47.

_Albanian_,an,313.

_Alabaster_,jarsin,164,165.

_AlexandertheGreat_,174,190.WishtouncoverruinsofTempleofBelus,420.Torebuildit,426.Torestorecanals,428.

_Ali-Baba_mountains,24.

_Altars_discoveredatKhorsabad,110.AtNimroud,288.

_American_missionaries,theirestablishments,313,332,334,and_note_.TheirschoolsatOoroomiyah,334.IntercoursewithNestorians,347.

_Amran_,moundof,390.Discoveriesin,414.

_Ana_,townof,mentionedininscriptions,294.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Anana_,ruinandvillage,436.

_Antioch_,Egyptianmonumentat,295,_note_.

_Ararat_,nameofArmenia,403.Viewofmount,423.

_Araxes_river,25.

_Arban_,arrivalat,223.Descriptionof,226.Excavationsat,228.Departurefrom,252.

_Arbela_,battleof,174.

_Arabs.__See_Bedouins.

_Arab_workmen,88.Instancesofhonestyin,470.

_Arabkha_,acityunderSennacherib,120.

_Aramæans_defeatedbySennacherib,118.

_Arch_atNimroud,138.

_Architecture_,Armenian,35.Assyrian,120.Babylonian,423.EarlyPersian,460.ComparisonbetweenAssyrianandJewish,517.

_Armenia_,abishopof,27,392.Ploughsin,29,38.Schoolsin,331.Reforminchurch,332.

Booksinlanguageof,334.IgnoranceofChristiansin,335.

_Armour_,partsof,discovered,152,162.WornbyBedouins,251.

_Arms_inironandbronzediscovered,162.

_Arrows_,headsof,discovered,162.

_Art_,Assyrian,oflowerperiod,369.

_Arvad_,nameof,ininscriptions,296.

_Ascalon_,nameof,ininscriptions,122.

_Ashayansk_,villageof,340.

_Ashtoreth_,orAstarte,themoon,291,and_note_.

_Ashur_,thesupremegodoftheAssyrians,504.

_Ashurakhbal.__See_Sardanapalus.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Ass_,awild,224.White,ofBagdad,379.

_Assordanes_,nameininscriptions,365.

_Assurnadin_,sonofSennacherib,124.

_Assyria_,computationoftimein,178.Greekcoinof,479.Nameof,onEgyptianmonuments,505.Recordsof,comparedwithJewish,506.Natureofgovernment,507.Boundsofempire,509.

_Athur_or_Assur_,moundof,139.

_AzeezAgha_,ayoungSheikh,393.

B.

_Baashiekhah_,villageof,112.

_Baazani_,villageof,111._Babel_,moundof,389,397.Excavationsanddiscoveriesin,408.Smallobjectsfrom,409.

_Babylon_takenbySennacherib,118,178,500.InpossessionofearlyNimroudking,293.Nameof,inWaninscriptions,327.Approachtoruinsof,389.Excavationscommencedat,394.Wallsof,nottraced,397.Dimensionsofwalls,398.

Generalplanof,400.Hanginggardensof,405.TempleofBelus,406.Paintedwallsat,412.Deitiesof,413.Jewsofthecaptivityat,415.Buildingmaterialsof,420.Historyof,425.Destructionof,427.Commerceof,428.Fabricsof,431.InhabitantsimpaledbyDarius,295,_note_.CommonoriginofinhabitantswithAssyrians,423.

Cupidityoftheirpriests,427.Commerceandroadsof,428.Corruptionof,432.Cylindersandgemsof,488.

_Badger_,theRev.Mr.,hisintercoursewiththeNestorians,347,_note_.

_Baghdad_,departurefor,373.Entranceto,380.Descriptionof,381.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Departurefrom,465.

_Baiandour_,Sultan,thetombof,31.

_Bairam_,Mussulmanfeastof,330.

_Bash-Kalah_,castleof,315.

_Bavian_,sculpturesof,173.Inscriptionsof,177,494.

_Baz_,districtof,353.

_Beavers_oftheKhabour,247.

_Bedouins_,customsof,withregardtocapturedhorses,184.Onseeingastranger,202.Theirwomen,217.Theirbread,239.Theirhospitality,240.Theirfood,_ib._ Diseasesamongst,242.TheirCadis,253.Lovemakingof,262.

LawsofDakheel,orprotection,263.Theirpoetry,265.Theirsagacity,269.Theirhorses,272.Theirhonesty,470.

_Belad_,ancientdistrictof,99.

_Belib_,madekingofBabylon,118,500.

_Bells_discoveredatNimroud,151.Analysesofcopperof,160.

_Benjamin_ofTudela,hisdescriptionofBabylon,402.OftombofEzekiel,407.OftombofEzra,407,_note_.AccountofcaptiveJews,416.

_Beth-Khumri_,orSamaria,494.

_Bimerstein_,Dr.,323,_note_.

_Birs-Nimroud_,the,401.Restorationof,404.

_Bishi_countryconqueredbySennacherib,119.

_Bitlis_,townof,38.

_Bitumen_pitsfired,168.Usedforcement,422.

_Blood-revenge_amongBedouins,253.

_Boats_ofAfaij,443.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Borsippa_,theBirsNimroud,402.

_Bowen_,theRev.Mr.,300,319,334.

_Bowls_ofbronzefromNimroud,153.EarthenwarewithHebrewinscriptions,415.Dateof,417.

_Brant_,Mr.,20.

_Bread_,Arabmodeofbaking,239.UnlawfultoseeamongAfaij,457.

_Bricks_,painted,atKhorsabad,110.Nimroud,139.Babylonian,141,405.

_Bronzes_,discoveryof,151.Analysisof,160.Originof,161.

_Buffalos_ofArabs,406.

_Bukra_,villageof,209.

_Bulls_,winged,transportofrepresentedinbas-reliefs,91,99.Atgateway,102.InfaçadeofKouyunjik,115.AtArban,228.

_Burchardt_,hisaccountoftheBedouins,199,_note_,263.

_Bustard_,the,205.Hawkingthe,386.

C.

_Calah_,ancientnameofNimroud,294.

_Caldrons_,discovery,atNimroud,151.Valueof,amongancients,152.Representedinbas-relief,588.

_Camanus_mountain._See_Kamana.

_Camels_ofNimroud,36.Abstinencefromwater,215,_note_.Representedinbas-reliefs,476.

_Canals_ofBabylonia,478.

_Canning_,SirS.,17.ProtectsreformedArmenians,333.

_Captives_inbas-reliefs,withfeathersintheirheads,139.Withfeatheredhead-dress,192.

_Captivity_,Princeofthe,417.ThehistoryoftheJewsofthe,416.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Carchemish_,195,236,238.

_Cavalry_,Turkishirregular,267.

_Cavern_,anatural,255.Artificial,atWan,328.

_Cedar-wood_broughtbyAssyriansfromLebanon,297,521.DiscoveredatNimroud,297.Employedinpalaces,527.

_CentrePalace_,Nimroud,builderof,497.Stateof,534.

_Chaldæans_defeatedbySennacherib,118.

_Chariot_,anAssyrian,130.Royal,364.

_Chark_,ahawkusedbyBedouins,387.

_Charms_,Eastern,418.

_Chellek_,villageof,48._Cherubim_ofJewscomparedwithAssyrianfigures,519.

_Chinese_bottlesdiscoveredatArban,332.

_Chesney_,Col.,expeditionunder,381.

_Cock_,imageof,onBabyloniangems,432.

_Commerce_ofBabylon,432.

_Coffins_ofearthenwareatArban,234.

AtNiffer,449.Ofwood,atBabel,408.

_Colonies_,Assyrian,513.

_Colors_onbricks,139.

_Columns_notfoundatBabylon,423.UsedatNineveh,526.

_Cooper_,Mr.,16,88.ReturnstoEngland,337.

_Copper_usedincolors,297.

_Convent_,aNestorian,311.AnArmenian,339.

_Corinthian_capital,194.

_Cowley_,Lord,protectstheArmenians,333.

_Ctesiphon_,ruinof,460.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Traditionconnectedwith,461.

_Cuneiform_,progressindeciphering,492.

_Cuth_,countryof,432,_note_.

_Cylinders_,ofSennacherib,136.Babylonian,432.Assyrian,488.Phoenician,487.Persian,488.Usedasseals,490.

_Cyprus_,Assyriantabletfoundin,499.

_Cyrus_,descriptionof,357.TakesBabylon,426.

D.

_Dagon_,representedinbas-reliefs,284,289.

_Dakheel_,thelawof,amongBedouins,263.

_Dam_,buildingupa,385.

_Dumlamajeh_,springof,540.

_Darius_,cylinderof,489.

_Deloul.__See_Dromedary.

_Denarii_foundatKouyunjik,479.

_Dereboun_,villageof,52.

_DerehBeys_,the,22.

_Dervish_,aPersian,32.

_Desert_,the,described,204,205,250.

_Divanubar_,nameofAssyrianking,496.

_Diz_,districtof,349.

_Dizza_,townof,313.

_Dromedary_,the,196,_note_,249,278.

_Ducks_,inmarble,&c.usedasweights,486,and_note_.

_Dudjook_tribes,21.

_Dujail_,canalof,465.

_Dura_,plainof,376.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


E.

_Earring_ofgoldfromKouyunjik,482.Mouldsforcasting,_ib._

_Eclipse_,Easternprejudiceconcerning,444,and_note_.

_Effendi_,the,aYezidichief,200.

_Egypt_,sealofkingof,134.BronzesofEgyptiancharacter,154,156,157.Relicsof,discoveredatKouyunjik,482.ConqueredbyEssarhaddon,501.

_Egyptians_,modeoftransportofgreatstones,98.DefeatedbySennacherib,121.Antiquitiesof,atAntioch,295.Weightsusedby,487.

_Elam_,ancientnameof,124,365.Conquestof,178,292,362,473.

_Elulæus_,kingofTyre,mentionedininscriptions,121.

_Ekron_,nameininscriptions,121._Embossing_onbronzevessels,153.

_Enamel_,Assyrian,165,297.Babylonian,412.

_Enoch_,bookof,418.

_Erzeroom_,roadstocityof,17,20.

_EskiBaghdad_,ruinsof,377.

_EskiMosul_,ruinsat,278.

_Essarhaddon_,nameof,136.Cylinderof,286.NameatNebbiYunus,484.Hismonuments,501.HispalaceatNimroud,532.

_Essarhaddon'sson_,hisbas-reliefs,362.Hisname,365.HispalaceatShereef-Khan,484.Hismonuments,501.

_Eulæus_,river,125.

_Eunuch_,representedinbas-relief,364.

_Euphrates_,river,27.Representedinbas-reliefs,359.Banksof,deserted,374.Navigationof,381.Stateof,_ib._ ChangesinitscourseatBabylon,399.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Evemerus_,kingofParthia,sendsBabylonianstoMedia,427.

_EvilSpirit_,the,representedinbas-reliefs,289.

_Eyes_inmarbleandenamel,297.

_Ezekiel_,tombof,407.

_Ezra_,tombof407,_note_.

F.

_Façade_ofKouyunjikpalace,115.

_Falcons.__See_Hawking.

_Faras_,SheikhoftheTai,147.

_Fawaz_,ahawk,224.

_Fergusson_,Mr.,remarksonAssyriancornice,110.RestorationofAssyrianpalaces,519,520,523,526.

_Ferhan_,sonofSofuk,276.

_Ferry-boat_atMosul,300.

_Fish-god.__See_Dagon.

_Footstool_ofbronzediscovered,166.

_Ford_,theRev.Mr.,198.

_Fountain_,anAssyrian,180.

_Funduk_,villageof,49.

_Futhliyah_,villageandmoundof,111.

_Fynyk_,rocksculpturesat,50.

G.

_Galleys_representedinbas-reliefs,192.

_Gate_ofEasterncities,52.OfNineveh,101.

Ofpalace,529.NonediscoveredatNimroud,535.

_Gaza_,nameof,ininscriptions,122.

_Gazelle_,hawkingthe,387.

_Ghazir_river,the,148,303.

_Gherdi_,districtof,306.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Gherara_,moundof,excavated,383.

_Glass_bowls,164.VaseofSargon,164.FromBabel,409.FromKouyunjik,480.

_Gods_,thetwelveAssyrian,291.Tableof,504.

_Gold_inlaidinbronze,165.Laidoverfiguresintemples,529.

_Gomel_river,173.

_Greek_art,resemblancetoAssyrian,369.RemainsatKouyunjik,480.

_Greyhound_,Persian,47.

_Guagamela_,battleof,173.

_GulaShailu_lake,28.

_Guli_,villageof,23.

_Gunduk_,Assyrianbas-reliefsat,304.

_Guzelder_,villageof,43.

H.

_Hadj_,the,orcaravantoMecca,433.

_Hagarenes_,conqueredbySennacherib,119.

_Hakkiari_,pashalicof,307.

_Hall_,great,inpalaceofKouyunjik,360.

_Hamki_,villageof,40.

_Hangings_ofsilkinBabylonianpalace,422.AtNineveh,529.

_Hanginggardens_,194,405.

_Harisa_,anArabdish,77.

_Hartushi_Kurds,344.

_Haroun_,moundof,440.

_HatemTai_,anecdoteof,146,_note_.

_Hawking_,223,248.Falcons,277.Training,387.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Hazael_,kingofSyria,mentionedininscriptions,494.

_Hebar.__See_Khabour.

_Hercules_,theAssyrian,114,179,482,484.

_Herki_,tribeof,183.

_Hermus_,river,mentionedininscriptions,294.

_Hezekiah_,nameof,ininscriptions,121.WarsofSennacheribwith,122.

_Hillah_,arrivalat,391.Governorof,393.BuiltofBabylonianbricks,412.

_Hincks_,theRev.Dr.,translationsofinscriptions,99,117,177,291.DiscoveryofnameofSennacherib,116.OfNebuchadnezzar,116,_note_.Ofsyllabarium,286.Discoveries,492.OnWaninscriptions,327,329.

TranslationofinscriptionofNebuchadnezzar,422._Hindiyah_canalandmarshes,383,401.

_Hittites_,the,nameofSyrians,120.Tributeof,293.Nameof,onEgyptianmonuments,505.

_Horses_,trappingsof,151.PedigreesofBedouin,184.Bedouin,215.Turkish,267.Arabbreeds,272.

Representedinbas-reliefs,282.Clothedinarmour,363.

_Howar_,SheikhoftheTai,144,183.

_Hymer_,theruinsof,436.

I.J.

_Idols_ofAssyrianscarriedaway,179.TakenbyAssyrians,191,474.

_Jehesh_,tribeof,200.

_Jehu_,nameof,onobelisk,493.

_Jelu_,mountainsof,350.Valleyof,350.Ancientchurchin,352.Bishopof,352.

_Jerraiyah_,moundof,83.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Jews_representedinbas-reliefs,131,367.Dressof,131.CaptivesontheHebar,235,359.FamiliesinKurdistan,308.Nomades,317.PilgrimagetoEzekiel'stomb,407.Relicsof,fromBabylon,414.Theirhistoryafterthecaptivity,415.Ancientpoliticalstateof,comparedwithAssyria,509.

_Jiulamerik_,townof,346.

_Illibi_,acountryconqueredbySennacherib,120.

_Impalement_,295.

_India_,overlandroadto,375.IntercourseofBabylonianswith,429.Dogsof,broughttoBabylon,430.

_Inclined_waydiscovered,370.

_Inclosures_ofNimroudandKouyunjik,514,534.

_Inlaying_,artof,knowntoAssyrians,164.

_Inscriptions_deciphered,100.Progressmadein,492.

_Jones_,Capt.ConducttowardsArabs,455.

_Jonah_,tombof,482.Excavationsinmoundof,483.Hispreaching,507.

_Jovian_,retreatof,377.

_Iron_,bronzecastover,163.Objectsdiscoveredin,297,482.

_Judi_mountain,arkrestedon,501.Tabletatfootof,_ib._

_Jumjuma.__See_Amran.

_Ivory_,objectsin,discovered,297.

K.

_Kadesia_,siteofbattle,378.

_Kalah-Sherghat_,excavationsat,471.

_Kamana_,mountainof,mentionedininscriptions,296.

_Kara-chok_,hillsof,185.

_Karagol_,villageof,26.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Kar-Duniyas_,acityofChaldæa,118,178,295.

_Karboul_Sheikh,440.

_Karnaineh_Khan,468.

_KarnessaouDaoleh_mountain,345.

_Kasr_,the,ofRich,411._See_Mujelibé.

_Kathimain_,tombsof,379,465.

_Keshaf_,moundof,183.

_Khabour_river,52,56.Journeyto,195.Arrivalat,223.Discoverieson,234.Ancientconditionofcountryon,235.Courseof,256.Sourcesof,259.

_Khan-i-resh_,villageof,308.

_KhanMahmoud_,aKurdishchief,323,340.

_Kharareh_,subduedbySennacherib,119.

_Kharkhar_,acountryconqueredbySennacherib,120.

_Khatouniyah_,lakeof,270.

_Khauser_,theriver,71,101,177.

_KhazanaKapousi_,tabletatWan,326.

_Khelath.__See_Akhlat.

_Kherimmi_conqueredbySennacherib,120.

_Khoraif_,aBedouin,197.

_Khorkhor_,nameofgardensatWan,326.

_Khorsabad_,discoveriesat,109.Builderof,126.Inclosureof,449.

_KiamilPasha_,71.

_Kifil_,tombofEzekiel,407.

_King_,bas-reliefof,atNimroud,290.Onbas-relief,358.Tableofnames,502.

_Kirikor_,anArmenianmonk,338.

_Kochers_,ornomades,184,307.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Kormawor_,inscriptioninchurchof,335.

_Kosh-ab_,castleof,317.

_Kosli_,villageof,25.

_Koukab_,volcanichillof,226,255,268.

_Kouyunjik_,discoveriesat,61,69,99,118,&c.Generaldescriptionof,70.Excavationsrenewedin,85,88.Grandentrancediscovered,114.Descendingpassage,280.Residenceat,301.Extentofruinsexcavated,476.Smallobjectsfrom,478,481,482.Restorationofpalace,521,527.Inclosureanddefences,535.

_Kurdistan_,journeyinto,305.Dialectsof,309.Chiefsof,391.

_Kurds_,chiefof,49,309.Characterof,307.Fanaticism,310.

L.

_Lachish_,siegeof,represented,128.Nameof,onbas-reliefs,130,131,_note_.

_Lak_,moundsof,109.

_Lead_foundinruins,297.

_Lebanon_,cedarwoodfrom,101,297.ConqueredbySardanapalus,299.

_Ledjmiyat_,encampmentat,248.

_Lens_ofrockcrystal,164.

_Levers_usedbyAssyrians,98.

_Limestone_inpalaceofKouyunjik,368.

_Lions_broughtastribute,115.

StatueofatArban,231.FoundontheKhabour,245.Colossalstatues,atNimroud,298.Tame,atHillah,393.FoundinmarshesofBabylonia,456.Modeofcapturing,456.Bronzeweights,486,and_note_.

_Lions_(_winged_),removalof,137,167.SenttoBaghdad,170.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Colossal,discoveredatNimroud,288.

_Lion_(_headed_)figure,370.

_Locusts_representedinbas-reliefs,281.

_Loftus_,Mr.,discoveriesatWurka,437.

M.

_Mahmoudiyah_valleyandtownof,316.

_Maidan_Arabs,456.

_Makhoul_hills,468.

_Makloub_hills,302.

_Malan_,Rev.Mr.,300.

_MarShamoun_,352.

_Mansouriyah_,villageof,51.

_MedianWall_,378,467.

_Marduk_,agodoftheBabylonians,422.

_Mecca_,returnofcaravanfrom,433.

_Marshes_representedinbas-reliefs,475.OftheAfaij,443.OfSouthernMesopotamia,455.

_MarShamoun_,346.

_Mediterranean_Seamentionedininscriptions,296.

_Meher_-Kapousi,inscriptionof,327.

_Mehemet_,PashaofWan,320.

_MelekBeniamen_,350.

_MelekTaous_ofYezidis,46.

_Menahem_,discoveryofname,497.

_MerodachBaladin_,hisnameininscriptions,117,124,178.

Waragainst,describedbyEusebius,500.

_Meroe.__See_Æthiopia.

_Mesopotamia_,ancientstateof,204,296,513.JourneyintoSouthern,437.Presentstateof,454.

_Metallurgy_ofAssyrians,161.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Narek_,villageandchurchof,340.

_NametAgha_,chiefofZibari,306.

_Names_,Assyrianroyal,125.

_Nasr_,Sheikh,75.

_Navkur_,plainof,305.

_Nazi_,aYezidichief,47.

_Nazik_,lakeof,28.

_NebbiUnus.__See_Jonah.

_Nebuchadnezzar_,nameof,116,_note_.HisgoldenimageatDura,376.Bricksandstonesbearinghisname,402,410.RebuiltBabylon,425.Tabletof,424.

_Nedjd_,roadto,279.Presentstateof,434.

_Negoub_,tabletfromtunnelof,497.

_Nergal_,anidol,432.

_Nerib_,acitytakenbyAssyrians,293.

_Nestorian_villagesnearAkra,304.FamiliesinGherdi,309.BishopofShemisden,311.Patriarch,346.Turkishoppression,348.Abishop,352.

Achurch,_ib._

_Nimroud_,returnto,85.Discoveriesat,104.Floodat,287.Smalltemplesat,288,297.Accountofbuildingofnorth-westpalaceininscriptions,293.Restorationofplatform,530.

_Niebuhr_,remarksonGreekart,369.

_Niffer_,firstviewof,442.Descriptionof,442.

Excavationsat,443.Coffinsdiscovered,450.

_NimroudDagh_mountains,36.

_Nineveh_,Romancoinsof,479.Itsfounder,accordingtoRawlinson,495.Nameof,onEgyptianmonuments,505.Extentof,513,515.DescribedbyoldEnglishtravellers,539.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Ninos_,castleof,onsiteofNineveh,478.

_Noah_,atempleto,485,_note_.

_NurUllahBey_,murdererofSchulz,314.

_Nuvaki_,ancientnameofSusianaorElam,292,365.

O.

_Oannes.__See_Dagon.

_Obelisk_,fromNimroud,bywhomraised,493.NameofJehuon,_ib._

_Omri_,nameof,oninscriptions,493.

_Ooroomiyah_,Americanschoolsat,334.

_Ormuzd_,formof,490.

_Orontes_,rivermentionedininscriptions,295.

_Oxus_river,supposedtobementionedininscriptions,498.

P.

_Palace_,atNimroudbuilt,293.OfNebuchadnezzar,422.Assyrianmodeoflighting,524.Morethanonestory,527.Internaldecorations,528.

_Parasang_,itslength,55.

_Patriarch_,ofAkhtamar,338.BodiesofChaldæanpatriarchsdiscovered,233.

_Pearls_broughttoBabylon,430.

_Pedestals_discoveredatKouyunjik,477.

_Persia_,frontiersof,314.Costumeofancientkingsof,358,363.Aprinceof,384.ConquestofBabylon,426.Relicsof,atKouyunjik,485.

_Persian_GulfnavigatedbyBabylonians,429.Cylinders,489.HousescomparedwithAssyrian,525.

_Phoenician_seals,138.Lettersonbronze,159.Workersinmetal,161.CoastconqueredbyAssyrians,192.TributetoAssyrianking,295.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


TradewithBabylon,430.Cylinders,489.

_Pine-apple_inbas-reliefs,281.

_Plaster_onwallsofpalaces,421,530.

_Plough_,Armenian,314.

_Poetry_ofBedouins,266.

_Poole_,Mr.Stuart,noteondenarii,479.

_Pottery_fromBabylon,409.FromKouyunjik,480.

_Priest_,Assyrian,sacrificing,191.

_Protestant_religion,extensionof,inTurkey,331.

_Propylæum_atKhorsabad,109.

_Pul_,monumentsof,498.

_Pyramid_atNimroud,excavationsin,104.

Q.

_Quarries_ofalabaster,112.

_QuintusCurtius_,descriptionofPersianking,358.

R.

_Rafts_ofskins,194,373.

_Rassam_,Mr.Hormuzd,88.

_Rathaiyah_,thewifeofSuttum,219.

_Rawlinson_,Col.,87.Sculpturespurchasedby,110.DiscoveryofannalsofSennacherib,117;ofnameoffatherofSargon,291.TheoryastoBabylon,407.Discoveries,492,_etc._

_Records_,chamberof,286.

OfearlyNimroudking,298.NatureofAssyrian,511.

_Rediff_,meaningofterm,236.

_Redwan_,townof,44.

_Reshid_Pasha,20.

_Rich_,Mr.,descriptionofBabylon,396,_note_.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


SketchoftheBirsNimroud,404.DiscoveriesatBabel,408.

_Rishwan_,anArabSheikh,214.

_Roads_,Turkish,18.Babylonian,429.

_Roman_relicsdiscoveredatKouyunjik,479.

_Ross_,Dr.,380.

S.

_Sabaco_,sealof,134.

_Sabæan_lettersanddialectonBabylonianbowls,417.

_Sahiman_,brotherofSuttum,215,464.

_Saladin_,birthplaceof,374.

_Samarrah_,townof,377.

_Samaria_,nameininscriptions,498.

_Sandhills_,moving,439.

_Sandwith_,Dr.,16,337.

_Sardanapalus_,orAshurakhbal,histomb,106.NamereadbyCol.Rawlinson,291.Hisrecords,290.BuildsacityontheEuphrates,294.Campaignsof,294.Smallstatueof,299.

Hisrecords,492,494.

_Sargon_,nameof,127,and_note_.Nameonglassvase,164.HiscotemporaryatWan,329.Monumentsof,498.

_Sassanian_ruins,377.

_Saulcy_,M.de,investigationsof,492.

_Saw_ofironfromNimroud,163.

_Scarabs_onbronzes,164.Egyptian,discoveredatArban,233.AtNineveh,482.

_Sceptre_ofivoryfoundatNimroud,164.

_Schools_,Armenian,atWan,331.InTurkey,332.

_Schulz_murdered,314.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


HisaccountofWan,322.

_Seals_,Assyrian,discovered,132.PhoenicianandEgyptian,132.OfkingofEgypt,134.Importanceof,inEast,490,_note_.

_Seleucia_,ruinsof,461.

_Seleucus_foundedSeleucia,427.

_Seleucidæ_,remainsofperiodof,atKouyunjik,480.

_Semiramis_foundedWan,321.

_Sennacherib_superintendingtransportofcolossi,95.Hisannalsdiscovered,117.Nameof,126.HisSignet,135.HissculpturesatBavian,173.HisbuildingsatShomamok,186.NameatShereef-Khan,484.Dateofaccession,494.Hismonuments,528.

_Sert_,riverof,38.

_Seven_Sleepers,thecaveof,173.

_Shabbak_,sectof,181.

_Shahan_Bey,22.

_Shaheen_,afalcon,386.

_Shammar_,Gebel,presentstateof,434.

_Shalmaneser_,nameof,127,and_note_.NameonMonuments,499.

_Shat-el-Arab.__See_Euphrates.

_Shell_,engraved,fromWurka,453.

_Shedadi_,moundof,247.

_Sheikh_-Adi,72.Ceremoniesat,74.

_Sheikh_Tahar,310.

_Shepherds'Gate_,traditionof,atWan,327.

_Shereef-Khan_,excavationsat,484.

_Sharutinian_,the,295.TheShairetanaoftheEgyptians,_ib.__note_.

_Shomamok_,plainof,146.Excavationsin,186.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


TheKasr,187.TheGla,188.

_Shushan_,cityof,represented,366.Nameof,ininscriptions,367.

_Sidon_,nameof,ininscriptions,120,296.Marinersof,employedbySennacherib,124.Workersinmetalof,161.

_Singara_,coinof,207._See_Sinjar.

_Suidones_,431.

_Sinjar_,the,205,207,269.

_Skins_usedforrafts,andtocrossrivers,373.

_Snake-charmer_,a,212.

_Sockets_ofgatesofpalace,137.

_Solomon_,bronzevesselsof,161.

Jewishkingdomunder,510.HisbuildingscomparedwithAssyrian,517.Formofhishouse,518.

_Statue_,anentire,discovered,299.

_Steamer_,English,onTigris,381.

_Stewart_,Mr.,Babylonianbowlsfromhiscollection,414.

_Storms_,201,245,301.

_Studs_,inmotherofpearlandivory,151.

_Subhan_mountain,316.

_Suleiman_Agha,visitto,252,257.

_Summer_,inAssyria,301.

_Summaichah_,villageof,465.

_Susiana_,conquestof,124.Riversof,365._See_Elam.

_Susubira_,kingofChaldæa,124,475.

_Suttum_,aBedouinSheikh,196,198,202.Hismare,213.Hisencampment,215.Rathaiyah,hiswife,219.Adla,hiswife,244.Hishawk,249.Hishonesty,470.Hisdeath,_ib.__note_.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


7/31/2019 Ninevah


AtKouyunjik,480.

_Tortures_,represented,367.

_Tower_atNimrouddiscovered,104.Tombin,106.

_Treasure_chamberdiscovered,150.

_Trebizond_,19.

_Tripod_,standsofbronze,151.

_Trumpet_speakinginbas-reliefs,94.

_Tulip_,anAssyrianornament,155.

_Turkey_,reformsin,22.Stateoffrontiers,317.

_Turks_,destructivepolicyof,145,374,381,454.

_Turtle_,a,takenintheKhabour,245.

_Tyre_,marinersof,employedbySennacherib,124.Nameof,ininscriptions,296.

U.V.

_Vault_atNimroud,138.

_Venus_,theAssyrian,imagesof,388.

_Verhan-Shehr_,260.

_Umjerjeh_,encampmentat,260.

_Volcano.__See_Koukab.

W.

_Wali_Bey,aTurcomanchief,147.

_Walls_represented,193.OfKouyunjik,539.

_Walpole_,Hon.F.,300.

_Wan_,firstviewof,29,316.JewishfamiliestakentherebyTigranes,316.Arrivalat,319.Historyof,322.Inscriptionsat,325.Listofkingsfrommonumentsof,327.Languageofinscriptionsof,329.

_Weights_,Assyrian,discoveredatNimroud,486.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Well_,a,atKouyunjik,66.AtNimroud,150.

_Wine-strainer_ofbronze,152.

_Women_,Arab,theirdress,217.OftheMillitribe,260.Singing,representedinbas-reliefs,367.

_Wothaiyah_,435.

_Wurka_,coffinsdiscoveredat,451.

X.

_Xenophon_,retreatoftheTenThousand,remarkson,47,50,55,_note_,188.DescriptionofCyrus,357.

_Xerxes_,inscriptionof,atWan,329.DestroyedthetemplesofBabylon,420.

Y._Yavan_,theGreekislands,120.Marinersof,employedbySennacherib,124.

_YediKlissia_,conventof,335.Cuneiforminscriptionsat,336.

_YusufCawal_,17,40,171.

_Yezidis_,stateof,17.Receptionby,40,42.Bronzebirdof,46.

Ameetingwith,53.Sacredceremoniesof,74.Abookofthe,80.Customsof,81.Amarriage,171.OftheSinjar,208.Theirhouses,209.Theirdress,210.OnPersianfrontiers,317.

Z.

_Zab_river,146,183,209,345.

_Zerga_,plainof,200.

_Zibari_Kurds,307.Chiefsof,308.

_Zibbliyah_,ruinof,459.

_Zidkaha_,kingofSidon,121.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


_Zobeide_,tombof,379.Tribeof,390.

FOOTNOTES:

[1]ThemostunobservantandhastytravellerinTurkeywouldsoonbecomeacquaintedwiththisfact,couldhereadthemodestandpiousinscription,carvedinreliefonasmallmarbletabletofthepurestwhite,adorningalmosteveryhalf-ruinedfountainatwhichhestopstorefreshhimselfbythewayside.

[2]Anabasis,lib.iv.c.5.

[3]ThesmallbuildingwhichsometimescoversaMohammedantombissocalled.

[4]ShahArmen,_i.e._,KingofArmenia,wasatitleassumedbyadynasty,reigningatAkhlat,foundedbySokmanKothby,aslaveoftheSeljukPrince,KothbedinIsmail,whoestablishedanindependentprincipalityatAkhlatinA.D.1100,whichlastedeightyyears.

[5]ThelowestorderoftheYezidipriesthood.

[6]Alargedrumbeatenatbothends,andakindofoboeorpipe.

[7]NinevehanditsRemains,vol.i.p.245.

[8]Anab.bookiv.c.3.

[9]ItwasatthefootofthissteepdescentthatXenophonwascompelledtoturnoff,ascaravansstillare,fromtheriver,andtobravethedifficultiesofamountainpass,defendedbythewarlikeCarduchiorKurds.

[10]ThecustomofassemblingandtransactingbusinessinthegateiscontinuallyreferredtointheBible.See2Sam.xix.8.,wherekingDavidisrepresentedassittinginthegate;comp.2Chron.xviii.9.,andDan.ii.49.ThegatesofJewishhouseswereprobablysimilartothatdescribedinthetext.SuchentrancesarealsofoundinPersia.Frequentlyinthegatesofcities,asatMosul,theserecessesareusedasshopsforthesaleofwheatandbarley,breadandgrocery.Elishaprophesiesthatameasureoffineflourshallbesoldforashekel,andtwomeasuresofbarleyforashekel,_inthegate_ofSamaria.2Kings,vii.1.and18.

[11]Mr.AinsworthwouldtaketheGreeksuptothemodernferry,wheretherecouldneverhavebeenaford,andwhichwouldhavebeensomemiles

outoftheirroute.(TravelsintheTrackoftheTenThousand.)

[12]InChapterX.willbefoundsomefartherremarksonthissubject.

[13]Heprobablytookthemoredifficultroadoverthepass,andnotthatroundthespur,inordertocrosstheKhabourbyabridgeorferry.Itmustberememberedthatitwaswinter,andthattheriverswereconsequentlyswollen.

[14]Thishalt,aftersoshortaday'smarch,mayhavebeenoccasionedby

7/31/2019 Ninevah


theHazel.Thedistancecorrespondswithsufficientaccuracy.

[15]ItisamatterofsurprisethatCyrusshouldhavechosentheverymiddleofsummerforhisexpeditionintoBabylonia,andstillmorewonderfulthattheGreeks,unusedtotheintenseheatsofMesopotamia,andencumberedwiththeirheavyarmsandarmour,shouldhavebeenabletobravetheclimate.NoTurkishorPersiancommanderwouldinthesedaysventuretoundertakeacampaignagainsttheArabsinthisseasonoftheyear;for,besidestheheat,thewantofwaterwouldbealmostaninsurmountableobstacle.Duringtheirretreat,theGreekshadtoencounteralltherigorofanArmenianwinter;sothat,duringthefewmonthstheywereunderarms,theywentthroughthemosttryingextremesofclimate.TheexpeditionofAlexanderwasalsoundertakeninthemiddleofsummer.Itmust,however,beborneinmind,thatMesopotamiawasprobablythenthicklypeopledandwellcultivated,andthatcanalsandwellsofwatermusthaveabounded.

[16]Hadheseenthislargeinlandsea,hewouldprobablyhavementionedit.

[17]Innoway,however,woulda_direct_lineofmarchbetweenthesetworivers,norbetweenanyothertworiverswhichcanpossiblyanswertohisdescription,tallywiththedistancesgivenbyXenophon.

[18]SeeNinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.p.112.[19]NinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.p.107.

[20]Thelonglinesofvariouslyarmedtroops,describedinmyformerwork(vol.ii.p.107),ascoveringseveralslabsfromtoptobottom,formthearmyofthekingmarchingtothiscampaign.

[21]ItisstillthecustominPersia,andwassountillatelyinTurkey,forsoldierstobringtheheadsoftheslaintotheirofficersafterabattle,andtoclaimasmallpecuniaryreward.

[22]ForanaccountofthesemoundsrepresentedintheAssyrian

sculptures,andthemannerinwhichtheyillustratevariouspassagesinScriptureseemyNinevehanditsRemains,volii.p.281and_note_.

[23]Suchisthecostumeofthewomeninshipsinabas-reliefdiscoveredduringmyformerresearches(seeNinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.p.116),andwhich,Ihaveconjectured,mayrepresentthecaptureofTyreandSidon.

[24]SeeNinevehanditsRemains,vol.i.p.131,foradescriptionofthediscoveriespreviouslymadeinthismound.

[25]"Thelittlesheep."Kouyunjikis,however,generallyknowntotheArabsbythenameofArmousheeyah.

[26]TheriverTigrisflowsinthispartofitscourse,anduntilitreachesSaimarrah,ontheconfinesofBabylonia,throughavalleyvaryingfromonetotwomilesinwidth,boundedonbothsidesbylowlimestoneandconglomeratehills.Itsbedhasbeenundergoingacontinualandregularchange.Whenitreachesthehillsononeside,itisthrownbackbythisbarrier,andcreepsgraduallytotheoppositeside,leavingarichalluvialsoilquicklycoveredwithjungle.Thisprocessithasbeenrepeating,backwardsandforwards,forcountlessages,andwillcontinuetorepeataslongasitdrainsthegreathighlandsofArmenia.AtNimroud

7/31/2019 Ninevah


itisnowgraduallyreturningtothebaseofthemound,whichitdesertedsomethreethousandyearsago;butcenturiesmustelapsebeforeitcanworkitswaythatfar.

[27]NinevehanditsRemains,vol.i.ch.ix.

[28]Amixtureofbruisedwheat,choppedmeat,milkandcurds,boiledintoathickpulpymass,overwhichmeltedbutterispoured.ItisafavoritedishinSyriaandMesopotamia,andiscookedbyfamiliesongreatfestivals,oroncertaindaysoftheyear,inconsequenceofvowsmadeduringsicknessorintravel.

[29]Foratranslationofthissingularpoem,seethelargerwork,ofwhichthepresentvolumeisanabridgment.

[30]ThisremindsmeoftheBedouins,who,whentheycomeintoatowninaparty,sendoneoftheirnumbertothemosquetoprayforhiscompanionsaswellashimself.

[31]AtMosul,abullock,verysmallcertainlywhencomparedwithourhigh-fedcattle,issoldforfortyorfiftypiastres,8_s._or10_s._;afatsheepforabout4_s._;alambfor2_s._or2_s._6_d._Otherarticlesoffoodareproportionablycheap.Thecamel-loadofbarleywassellingatmydeparturefortenortwelvepiastres(2_s._or2_s._6_d._).Acommon

horseisworthfrom3_l._to5_l._;adonkeyabout10_s._;acamelaboutthesameasahorse.

[32]Seep.64.

[33]Itwillbeborneinmindthatitwasnecessarytocarrytunnelsroundthechambers,andalongthewalls,leavingthecentreburiedinearthandrubbish,averylaboriousandtediousoperationwithnomoremeansatcommandthanthoseaffordedbythecountry.

[34]Alltheseentranceswereformedinthesamewayasthatinthesouth-easternside,describedp.66.,namely,byapairofhuman-headedbulls,flankedoneachsidebyawingedgiant,andtwosmallerfiguresone

abovetheother.

[35]P.67.

[36]P.66.Iassumethebuildingtobeduenorthandsouth,althoughitisnotso.Itfacesnearlynorth-eastandsouth-west.

[37]InmyformerworkIhadstatedthat_all_theAssyriansculptureswerecarvedintheirplacesagainstthewallsofthebuilding.

[38]IhavedescribedthemodeofirrigationnowgenerallyemployedbytheMesopotamianArabs,inmy"NinevehanditsRemains,"vol.ii.p.321.

[39]Itmayberemarked,thatpreciselythesameframeworkwasusedformovingthegreatsculpturesintheBritishMuseum.

[40]Seewoodcut,p.92.

[41]Althoughinthesebas-reliefs,asinotherAssyriansculptures,noregardispaidtoperspective,theproportionsareverywellkept.

[42]1Kings,vi.23.IshallhereaftercomparetheedificesbuiltbySolomonwiththeAssyrianpalaces,andpointouttheremarkable

7/31/2019 Ninevah


illustrationsoftheJewishtempleaffordedbythelatter.

[43]Apeculiardeityismentionedwhoprobablypresidedovertheearth,buthisnameisasyetunknown;itisheredenotedbyamonogram.

[44]Nahum,iii.13.

[45]Anab.lib.iii.c.4.

[46]Col.Rawlinsonremarksinhismemoironthe"OutlinesofAssyrianHistory"(publishedbytheRoyalAsiaticSocietyin1842),that"thegreatpyramidatNimroudwaserectedbythesonofthebuilderofthenorth-westpalace;"andastheGreeksnamethatmonumentthetombofSardanapalus,hebelievesthat"ashaftsunkinthecentreofthemound,andcarrieddowntothefoundations,wouldlaybaretheoriginalsepulchre.Thedifficulties(headds)ofsuchanoperationhavehithertopreventeditsexecution,buttheideaisnotaltogetherabandoned."Heappearsthus,curiouslyenough,tobeignorantoftheexcavationsinthatruindescribedinthetext,althoughhehadjustvisitedNimroud.Theonlylikelyplacenotyetexaminedwouldbe_beneath_theveryfoundations.

[47]PalacesofNinevehandPersepolisrestored,p.223.

[48]NinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.--planofKouyunjik.

[49]IhadalsoshowntheprobabilitythatthepalaceofKhorsabadoweditserectiontoamonarchofthisdynasty,inaseriesofletterspublishedintheMaltaTimes,asfarbackas1843.

[50]Vol.xxii.p.34.ItakethisopportunityofattributingtotheirpropersourcethediscoveriesofthenamesofNebuchadnezzarandBabylon,inadvertentlyassignedtoothersinmy"NinevehanditsRemains."Weowethese,withmanyothersofscarcelylessimportance,totheingenuityandlearningofDr.Hincks.(LiteraryGazette,June27,1846.)

[51]Isaiah,xxxix.1,and2Kings,xx.12,wherethenameiswrittenBerodach.

[52]Col.RawlinsonreadsBel-adon.ThisBelibistheBelibusofPtolemy'sCanon.ThementionofhisnameledDr.HinckstodeterminetheaccessionofSennacheribtobein703B.C.

[53]Col.Rawlinsongives11,180headofcattle,5230camels,1,020,100sheep,and800,300goats.HehasalsopointedoutthatbothAbydenusandPolyhistormentionthiscampaignagainstBabylon.

[54]Joseph.1.ix.c.14.,andseeNinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.p.306,whereIhadlongbeforethedecipheringoftheinscriptionsendeavouredtopointouttherepresentationofthisevent,insomebas-reliefsatKouyunjik.

[55]Isaiah,xxxvii.2Kings,xix.9.

[56]2Kings,xviii.13.;andcompareIsaiah,xxxvi.1.

[57]"AndthekingofAssyriaappointeduntoHezekiah,kingofJudah,300talentsofsilverand30talentsofgold."(2Kings,xviii.14.)

[58]Shalmaneser,whomadewaragainstHosea,andwhoisgenerallysupposedtohavecarriedawaythetentribesfromSamaria,althoughthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


sacredhistoriandoesnotdistinctlysayso(2Kings,xvii.),isidentifiedbygeneralconsentwithSargon,whosenthisgeneralagainstAshdod(Isaiah,xx.).

[59]Chap.VIII.

[60]XenophonCyrop.lvii.c.3.QuintusCurtius,liii.c.3.

[61]Botta'sMonumensdeNinive,Plate146.

[62]2Kings,xviii.14.Isaiahxxxvi.2.From2Kings,xix.8.,andIsaiah,xxxvii.8.,wemayinferthatthecitysoonyielded.

[63]Isaiah,iii.18--24.&c.(SeetranslationbytheRev.J.Jones.)ThisdescriptionofthevariousarticlesofdresswornbytheJewishwomenisexceedinglyinteresting.Mostoftheornamentsenumerated,probablyindeedthewholeofthem,ifwewereacquaintedwiththeexactmeaningoftheHebrewwords,arestilltobetracedinthecostumesofEasternwomeninhabitingthesamecountry.ManyappeartobementionedintheAssyrianinscriptionsamongstobjectsoftributeandofspoilbroughttotheking.SeealsoEzekielxvi.10--14.foranaccountofthedressoftheJewishwomen.

[64]M.Bottaalsofound,atKhorsabad,theashesofstringinlumpsof

clayimpressedwithaseal,withoutbeingawareoftheirorigin.[65]TheimpressionsofthesignetsoftheEgyptianandAssyriankings,besidesalargecollectionofsealsfoundinKouyunjik,arenowintheBritishMuseum.

[66]Thesockets,whicharenowintheBritishMuseum,weigh6lb.3-3/4oz.;thediameteroftheringisaboutfiveinches.ThehingesandframesofthebrassgatesatBabylonwerealsoofbrass(Herod.i.178).

[67]"OutofthatlandwentforthAsshur,andbuildedNineveh."(Gen.x.11.)

[68]OnEgyptianmonumentscaptivesareportrayedwithsimilarfeathersattachedtotheirheads;buttheyappeartobeofanegrorace,whilstthoseontheNimroudbricksbearnotracesofnegrocolororphysiognomy.(Wilkinson'sAncientEgyptians,vol.1.plate,p.385.)

[69]Thatis,aswillbehereaftershown,toPul,orTiglathPileser.

[70]Thecanvassofsuchtentsisdividedintostrips,which,packedseparatelyonthecamelsduringamarch,areeasilyunitedagainbycoarsethread,orbysmallwoodenpins.

[71]Thereadermayrememberawell-knownanecdoteofthiscelebratedSheikh,stillcurrentinthedesert.Hewastheownerofamatchlessmare

whosefamehadevenreachedtheGreekEmperor.AmbassadorsweresentfromConstantinopletoasktheanimalofthechief,andtoofferanyamountofgoldinreturn.Whentheyannounced,afterdining,theobjectoftheirembassy,itwasfound,thatthetribesufferingfromagrievousfamine,andhavingnothingtooffertotheirguests,thegenerousHatemhadslainhisownpricelessmaretoentertainthem.

[72]Itwasparallelto,andtothesouthof,thechambermarkedAA,intheplanofthenorth-westpalace.(NinevehanditsRemains,vol.i.PlanIII.)

7/31/2019 Ninevah


[73]FewwellsintheplainsborderingontheTigrisyieldsweetwater.

[74]Thecaldronscontainedabouteightybells.Thelargestare3-1/4incheshigh,and2-1/4inchesindiameter,thesmallest1-3/4inchhigh,and1-1/4inchindiameter.WiththerestoftherelicstheyarenowintheBritishMuseum.

[75]2Chron.iv.2.Thedimensions,however,ofthisvesselwerefargreater.Itissingularthatinsomeofthebas-reliefslargemetalcaldronssupportedonbrazenoxenarerepresented.

[76]Theywerededicatedtothegodsintemples.Coloeusdedicatedalargevesselofbrass,_adornedwithgriffins_,toHeré.Herod.iv.152.

[77]TheEgyptiangoddessAthorisrepresentedwithsimilarearsandhair.

[78]1Kings,vii.13,14.2Chron.iv.

[79]2Kings,xxiv.14,16.Jeremiahxxiv.1.;xxix.2.

[80]Inancienthistory,embossedorinlaidgobletsarecontinuallymentionedamongsttheofferingstocelebratedshrines.Gygesdedicatedgoblets,Alyattes,asilvercup,and_aninlaidironsaucer_(theartof

inlayinghavingbeeninvented,accordingtoHerodotus,byGlaucus),andCroesussimilarvessels,inthetempleofDelphi.(Herod.i.14.and25.Pausanias,l,x.)Theywerealsogivenasacceptablepresentstokingsanddistinguishedmen,asweseein2Sam.viii.10.and3Chron.ix.23,24.TheLacedæmonianspreparedforCroesusabrazen_vesselornamentedwithformsofanimalsroundtherim_(Herod.i.70.),likesomeofthebowlsdescribedinthetext.TheembossingsontheNimroudbronzesmayfurnishuswithaveryjustideaofthefiguresandornamentsofthecelebratedshieldofAchilles,whichwereprobablymuchthesameintreatmentandexecution.

[81]Suchmayhavebeen"thebossesofthebucklers"mentionedinJob,xv.26.

[82]1Kings,x.16,17.;xiv.25,26.

[83]Jer.li.11.Ezek.xxi.21.,andcompareIsaiah,xlix.2.,whereapolished_shaft_ismentioned.

[84]NinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.p.319.

[85]Ezek.xxvii.15.IvorywasamongsttheobjectsbroughttoSolomonbythenavyofTharshish(1Kingsx.22).

[86]Theheightoftheglassvaseis3-1/4inches;ofthealabaster,7inches.

[87]Seep.129.

[88]1Kings,x.18.ThisisahighlyinterestingillustrationoftheworkinSolomon'spalaces.TheearliestuseofmetalamongsttheGreeksappearsalsotohavebeenasacasingtowoodenobjects.

[89]Herod,i.14.

[90]Bothsculptureshave,however,beencompletelyrestoredinthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


BritishMuseum.

[91]NotraditionismoregenerallycurrentintheEastthanthewellknownstoryoftheSevenSleepersandtheirDog.Thereisscarcelyadistrictwithouttheoriginalcaveinwhichtheyouthswereconcealedduringtheirmiraculousslumber.

[92]TheywerefirstvisitedbythelateM.Rouet,FrenchconsulatMosul.InmyNinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.p.114note,willbefoundashortdescriptionofthesculpturesbymyfriendMr.Ross.Thesearetherock-tabletswhichhavebeenrecentlydescribedintheFrenchpapers,asanewdiscoverybyM.Place,andascontainingaseriesofportraitsoftheAssyriankings!

[93]ThesetombsarenotoftheAssyrianepoch.TheJews,aswellasothernationsofantiquity,were,however,accustomedtomakesuchrock-chambersfortheirdead,aswelearnfromIsaiah,xxii.16."Whathastthouhere?andwhomhastthouhere,thatthouhasthewedtheeoutasepulchrehere,as_hethathewethhimoutasepulchreonhigh_,andthatgravethanhabitationforhimselfinarock?"

[94]IexaminedtheremarkabletabletsattheNahr-el-Kelb,onmyreturntoEuropein1851.Theyweresculptured,asIstatedinmyfirstwork,bySennacherib,thekingoftheBavianmonuments.

[95]Seep.117.

[96]NinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.chap.12.

[97]ThenamesoftheprincipalareTel-el-Barour,Abbas,Kadreeyah,Abd-ul-Azeez,Baghurtha,EliasTuppeh,Tarkheena,andDoghan.

[98]Anab.b.ii.c.4.

[99]Seep.56.

[100]Isaiah,xxxvi.18,19.


[102]Seep.124.

[103]2Kings,xviii.11.Ezek.i.2.

[104]2Chron.xxxv.20.

[105]Iusetheword"dromedary"foraswiftridingcamel,the_Deloul_oftheArabs,and_Hejin_oftheTurks:itissoappliedgenerally,althoughincorrectly,byEuropeansintheEast.

[106]Burckhardt,theEnglishtravellerbestacquaintedwiththeBedouincharacter,andadmirablycorrectindescribingit,makesthefollowingremarks:"Withalltheirfaults,theBedouinsareoneofthenoblestnationswithwhichIeverhadanopportunityofbecomingacquainted....ThesociablecharacterofaBedouin,whenthereisnoquestionofprofitorinterest,maybedescribedastrulyamiable.Hischeerfulness,wit,softnessoftemper,goodnatureandsagacity,whichenablehimtomakeshrewdremarksonallsubjects,renderhimapleasing,andoftenavaluablecompanion.Hisequalityoftemperisneverruffledbyfatigueorsuffering."(NotesontheBedouins,pp.203,208.)Unfortunately,since

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Burckhardt'stime,closerintercoursewiththeTurksandwithEuropeans,hasmuchtendedtodestroymanygoodfeaturesintheArabcharacter.

[107]Seep.187.

[108]Thefollowingarethenamesoftheprincipalmoundsseenduringthisday'smarch:Ermah,Shibbit,Duroge,Addiyah,Abou-Kubbah,andKharala,eachnamebeingprecededbytheArabicwordTel,_i.e._mound.Theyarelaiddowninthemapaccompanyingthisvolume,theirpositionshavingbeenfixedbycarefulbearings,andinsomeinstancesbythesextant.



[111]ThetravellerwhohaslookeddownfromMardin,forthefirsttime,upontheplainsofMesopotamia,canneverforgettheimpressionwhichthatsingularscenemusthavemadeuponhim.TheviewfromtheSinjarhillisfarmorebeautifulandvaried.

[112]Inthespringmonths,whenthepasturesaregood,thesheepandcamelsoftheBedouinsrequirebutlittlewater,andthetentsareseldompitchednearawellorstream;frequentlyasmuchashalfaday'sjourneydistant.Suttumassuredmethatatthistimeoftheyearthecamelsneed

notbewateredfortwomonths,suchistherichnessofthegrassoftheDesert.

[113]ItisanerrortosupposethattheBedouinsneverridehorses;forseveralreasons,however,theyseldomdoso.

[114]ItisconsideredexceedinglyinhospitableamongsttheShammartoplaceahotdishbeforeguests,astheyareobligedtoeatquicklyoutofconsiderationforothers,whoareawaitingtheirturn,whichtheycannotdo,unlessthemessbecool,withoutburningtheirmouths,orwastinghalftheirtimepickingoutthecolderbits.Ononeoccasion,Ferhan,thegreatchiefoftheShammar,andalargenumberofhorsemenhavingalightedatmytent,Ipreparedadinnerforthem.TheSheikhwasafterwardsheardtosay

thattheBey'sfeastwassumptuous,butthathehadnottreatedhisguestswithproperhospitality,asthedishesweresohotnobodycouldeathisfill.

[115]Theseare"theringsandnosejewels,"whichIsaiah(iii.21.)describesaswornbytheJewishwomen.ItiscuriousthatnorepresentationofthemhashithertobeenfoundintheAssyriansculptures.Itakethisopportunityofmentioning,thatIsawafinger-ringsculpturedonafragmentatKhorsabad.

[116]Asthiswasknowntobeamerematterofformwithme,asImadeitarulenevertoacceptpresentsofthiskind,Suttummighthaveofferedmehisbaycolt,themostvaluablehorseamongsttheShammar,toincreasethe

displayofhospitality.Thereasonhedidnotwasthis,thatalthoughheknewIwouldhavereturnedthehorse,Imighthaveexpressedawishtobuyit,andhaveofferedaprice.AnofferofthiskindwouldhaveatonceinjuredthevalueoftheanimalintheeyesoftheBedouins,anditsownermighthavebeenultimatelycompelledtosellit.Ononeoccasion,whenIwasamongsttheShammar,atAlHather,anArabrodeintomyencampmentonabeautifulgreycolt.Iwassomuchstruckwiththeanimal,thatIatonceexpressedawishtoitsridertopurchaseit.HemerelyintimatedthatthesumInamedwasbeneaththevalue.Iincreasedit,butheonlyshookhishead,androdeoff.Nevertheless,thereportspreadamongstthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


tribesthathehadbargainedforthesaleofhishorse.Althoughofthebestblood,theanimalwaslookeduponwithsuspicionbytheBedouins,andtheownerwas,somemonthsafter,obligedtosellhimatalowerpricethanIhadbid,toahorse-dealerofMosul!AknowledgeofsuchlittleprejudicesandcustomsisverynecessaryindealingwiththeArabsoftheDesert,whoareextremelysensitive,andeasilyoffended.

[117]Itsnoteresemblesthecryofthecamel-driver,whenleadingtheherdshomeatnight,forwhichitisfrequentlymistaken.

[118]Literally,"strength-money:"thesmalltribes,whowanderintheDesert,andwhoinhabitthevillagesuponitsedge,areobligedtoplacethemselvesundertheprotectionofsomepowerfultribetoavoidbeingutterlydestroyed.EachgreatdivisionoftheShammarreceivesapresentofmoney,sheep,camels,corn,orbarley,fromsometribeoranotherforthisprotection,whichisalwaysrespectedbytheotherbranchesofthetribe.ThustheJeheshpaid_kowee_totheBoraij,theJeboursoftheKhabourtoFerhan(thehereditarychiefofalltheShammar),thepeopleofTelAfertotheAssaiyah.ShouldanotherbranchoftheShammarplunder,orinjure,tribesthuspayingkowee,theirprotectorsareboundtomakegood,orrevenge,theirlosses.

[119]CawalYusufactuallybecamethefarmeroftherevenuesforasumscarcelyexceeding350_l._TheinhabitantsoftheSinjarweregreatly

pleasedbythisconcessiontooneoftheirownfaith,andwereencouragedtocultivatethesoil,andtoabstainfrommutualaggressions.

[120]TheserelicsarenowintheBritishMuseum.

[121]Theheightofthisfragmentwas5ft.8in.

[122]AlionverysimilartothatdiscoveredatArban,thoughmorecolossalinitsdimensions,existsnearSerong.(Chesney'sExpedition,vol.i.p.114.)

[123]2Kings,xvii.6.Ezek.i.1.IntheHebrewtextthenameofthisriverisspeltintwodifferentways.InKingswehave[Hebrew],Khabour,

answeringexactlytotheChaborasoftheGreeksandRomans,andtheKhabouroftheArabs.InEzekielitiswritten[Hebrew],Kebar.Thereisnoreason,however,todoubtthatthesameriverismeant.

[124]ThenameoccursinEzekiel,iii.15."ThenIcametothemofthecaptivityat_Tel-Abib_,thatdweltbytheriverofChebar."IntheTheodosiantableswefind_Thallaba_ontheKhabour,withwhichitmaypossiblybeidentified.(IllustratedCommentaryontheOldandNewTestaments,publishedbyCharlesKnight,averyusefulandwell-digestedsummary,innotetoword.)ItispossiblethatArbonad,anameapparentlygiventotheKhabourinJudith,ii.24.,maybeconnectedwithArban:however,itisnotquiteclearwhatriverisreallymeant,asthereappearstobesomeconfusioninthegeographicaldetails.Thecitieson

theKhabour,mentionedbytheArabgeographers,areKarkisia(Circesium,atthejunctionoftheriverwiththeEuphrates),Makeseen(ofwhichIcouldfindnotrace),Arban,andKhabour.Ihavenotbeenabletodiscoverthesiteofanyruinofthesamenameastheriver.Karkisia,whenvisitedinthetwelfthcenturybyBenjaminofTudela,containedabout500Jewishinhabitants,undertwoRabbis.AccordingtoIbnHaukal,itwassurroundedbygardensandcultivatedlands.ThespotisnowinhabitedbyatribeofArabs.

[125]InspeakingoftheBedouinsImeantheAneyza,Shamma,AlDhefyr,

7/31/2019 Ninevah


andothergreattribesinhabitingMesopotamiaandtheDeserttothenorthoftheGebelShammar.WiththeArabsoftheHedjazandCentralArabiaIamunacquainted.

[126]Polygamy,itmaybeherementioned,isverycommonamongsttheBedouins.

[127]Thetitleofharaymi(thief),sofarfrombeingoneofdisgrace,isconsideredevidenceofgreatprowessandcapacityinayoungman.LiketheSpartansofold,heonlysuffersifcaughtintheact.TherewasamanoftheAssaiyahtribe,whohadestablishedanimmenserenownbystealingnolessthanninetyhorses,amongstwhichwasthecelebratedmaregivenbySofuktoBederKhanBey.

[128]Easternsneverhawk,iftheycanavoidit,whenthesunishigh,asthebirdofpreydescribedinthetextthenappearsinsearchoffood.

[129]OneoftheprincipalobjectsoftheBedouinsinbattlebeingtocarryofftheiradversaries'mares,theyneverwoundthemiftheycanavoidit,butendeavourtokillorunhorsetheriders.

[130]Burckhardthasthusdefinedthetermsofthislaw:"TheTharrestswiththekhomse,orfifthgeneration,thoseonlyhavingtherighttorevengeaslainparent,whosefourthlinealascendantis,atthesame

time,thefourthlinealascendantofthepersonslain;and,ontheotherside,onlythosemalekindredofthehomicideareliabletopaywiththeirownforthebloodshed,whosefourthlinealascendantisatthesametimethefourthlinealascendantofthehomicide.Thepresentgenerationisthuscomprisedwithinthenumberofthekhomse.Thelinealdescendantsofallthosewhoareentitledtorevengeatthemomentofthemanslaughterinherittherightfromtheirparents.Therighttoblood-revengeisneverlost;itdescendsonbothsidestothelatestgeneration."(NotesonArabs,p.85.)

[131]_I.e._Theancientruinedcity,anameverygenerallygivenbytheTurkstoruins.

[132]TheformofsalutationusedbytheTurks,consistingofraisingthehandfromthebreast,orsometimesfromtheground,totheforehead.

[133]Burckhardtremarksthat"Bedouinsare,perhaps,theonlypeopleoftheEastthatcanbeentitledtruelovers."(NotesonBedouins,p.155.)

[134]InthewinteroftheyearmyresidenceinBabylonia,afteranengagementnearBaghdad,betweentheBoraijandtheTurkishregulartroops,inwhichthelatterweredefeated,aflyingsoldierwascaughtwithinsightofanencampment.Hiscaptorsweregoingtoputhimtodeath,whenhestretchedhishandstowardsthenearesttent,claimingtheDakheelofitsowner,whochancedtobeSahiman,Mijwell'seldestbrother.TheSheikhwasabsentfromhome,buthisbeautifulwifeNouraansweredtothe

appeal,andseizingatent-polebeatoffhispursuers,andsavedhislife.ThisconductwasmuchapplaudedbytheBedouins.

[135]ThemannerinwhichreportsarespreadandexaggeratedintheDesertisfrequentlyhighlyamusing.Inallencampmentsthereareidlevagabondswholivebycarryingnewsfromtribetotribe,therebyearningadinnerandspendingtheirleisurehours.Assoonasastrangerarrives,andrelatesanythingofinteresttotheArabs,somesuchfellowwillmounthisready-saddleddeloul,andmakethebestofhiswaytoretailthenewsinaneighbouringtent,fromwhenceitiscarried,inthesameway,toothers.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Itisextraordinaryhowrapidlyareportspreadsinthismanneroveraverygreatdistance.SofuksenttoinformtheBritishresidentatBaghdad,ofthesiegeandfallofAcre,manydaysbeforethespecialmessengerdispatchedtoannouncethateventreachedthecity;andIhavefrequentlyrejectedintelligencereceivedfromBedouins,onaccountoftheapparentimpossibilityofitscomingtomethroughsuchasource,whichhasafterwardsprovedtobetrue.


[137]IhaveelsewheredescribedtheruinsandspringsofAbouMaria.(NinevehanditsRemains,vol.i.p.257.)

[138]TheTigristhisyearhadrisenmuchhigherthanusual.IhavealreadymentionedthattheplainofNimroudwascompletelyunderwater;oppositeMosulthefloodnearlyreachedthemoundsofKouyunjikandNebbiYunus.

[139]Burckhardt(NotesontheBedouins,p.269)givesthefollowingaccountofthemodeofpreparingthem:--"TheArabsinpreparinglocustsasanarticleoffood,throwthemaliveintoboilingwater,withwhichagooddealofsalthasbeenmixed:afterafewminutestheyaretakenoutanddriedinthesun.Thehead,feet,andwingsarethentornoff;thebodiesarecleansedfromthesaltandperfectlydried;afterwhichprocesswhole

sacksarefilledwiththembytheBedouins.Theyaresometimeseatenbroiledinbutter;andtheyoftenconstitutematerialsforabreakfastwhenspreadoverunleavenedbreadmixedwithbutter."IthasbeenconjecturedthatthelocusteatenbyJohntheBaptistinthewildernesswasthefruitofatree;butitismoreprobablethattheprophetusedacommonarticleoffood,aboundingevenintheDesert.

[140]Cory'sFragments,page30.

[141]TheauthoritiesrespectingthisgodarecollectedinSelden,"DeDisSyris,"andinBeyer'scommentary.Abarbanel,inhiscommentaryonSamuel,saysthatDagonhadtheformofafish,fromthemiddledownwards,withthefeetandhandsofaman.

[142]1Sam.v.4.

[143]Judges,xvi.23.

[144]Joshua,xv.41.Fromtheconnectionofthisversewiththe33rd,itwouldappearthatthetownwasinavalley.

[145]Joshua,xix.27.1Mac.x.83.

[146]Ezra,vi.1.


[148]Page125.

[149]ThisisevidentfromLucian's"DeDeâSyrâ,"c.4.;andseeGesenius's"Thesaurus"invoce"Ashtoreth."(1Kings,xi.5.33.2Kings,xxiii.13.)Quære,whetherthebull'shornsplacedontheheadofthisdivinity,werenotoriginallythehornsofthemoon'screscent?

[150]Thiscity,oneapparentlyofconsiderablesizeandimportance,musthavestoodsomewherenearAntioch,orbetweenAntiochandAleppo.The

7/31/2019 Ninevah


SharutiniansmayprobablybeidentifiedwiththeShairetanaoftheEgyptianmonuments,atonetimetheallies,andatanothertheenemies,ofEgypt.Fewtravellersareawarethat,abovethecityofAntioch,carvedintherock,arecolossalfiguresofanEgyptiansphinxandtwopriests.Ihavebeeninformedthatthereareothersimilarmonumentsintheneighbouringmountains.

[151]Thisbarbarouspractice,frequentlyrepresentedinthebas-reliefs,seems,therefore,tohaveprevailedfromtheearliesttimesintheEast.Dariusimpaled3000Babylonianswhenhetooktheircity.(Herod.iii.159.)ThelastinstancewithwhichIamacquaintedofthispunishmenthavingbeeninflictedinTurkey,wasatBaghdad,where,abouttenyearsago,NejibPashaimpaledfourrebelArabSheikhs,oneateachcornerofthebridge.Theysurvivedformanyhours.Itissaidthat,unlesstheydrinkwater,whentheyinstantlydie,personssotreatedwillliveevenfortwoorthreedays.

[152]Mightthisword,translatedconjecturallypearls,meantheshellfishfromwhichtheTyriandyewasextracted?

[153]Thewholeofthelastpassageisveryobscure;thetranslationispartlyconjectural.

[154]Isaiah,xv.6.TranslationbytheRev.JohnJones.

[155]ForthisvalleyIreceivedthreedifferentnames,Hassanawa,Hassanmaima,andNahala,thelatterfromtheZibarichief.ThedifficultyofgettingacorrectnameeitherofaplaceorapersonfromaKurdisverygreat,andtravellersinKurdistancanscarcelyavoidfallingintofrequenterrorsinthisrespect.Thesamenameispronouncedinavarietyofways,andissubjecttoallmannerofadditionsandcontractions.Ifithaveanymeaning,thedifficultyis,ofcourse,less.

[156]Khan-i-reshis,byobservation,4372feetabovethelevelofthesea.

[157]Itwasthischief,oroneofhisdependants,Ibelieve,who

plunderedandwasabouttomurdertwoAmericanmissionaries,whoattemptedtocrossthemountainstheyearaftermyvisit.

[158]AsIhaveusedthewordconvent,itmaybenecessarytoremindthereaderthattheNestorianshavenoestablishmentsansweringtoRomanCatholicplacesofretirement,andthatmonasticvowsarenottakenbythem.

[159]Theheightoftheconventabovetheleveloftheseais,byobservation,6625feet.


[161]TheplaceofourencampmentatBash-Kalahwas,byobservation,7818feetabovethelevelofthesea.

[162]TheJewishencampmentwas9076feetabovethelevelofthesea.

[163]AmongsttheJewishpopulationscatteredwidelyoverthispartofancientMedia,mightbesoughtthedescendantsofthetentribes,withmoreprobabilitythaninthevariouslandswhichingeniousspeculationhaspointedoutasdwelling-placesoftheremnantofIsrael.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


[164]ImustnotomittomentionthenameofDr.Bimerstein,aGermangentlemanattheheadofthequarantineestablishment,fromwhomIreceivedmuchcivilityandassistanceduringmystayatWan,andwho,bytheinfluencehehadobtainedoverthePasha,andbyhisintegrityandgoodsense,hadcontributedconsiderablytowardstheimprovementintheconditionoftheChristians,andthegeneralprosperityofthepashalic.HewasapleasingexceptioninaclassmadeupoftherefuseandoutcastsofEurope,whohavedonemorethanisgenerallyknowntocorrupttheTurkishcharacter,andtobringanEuropeanandaChristianintocontempt.IamproudtosaythatanEnglishmanisnot,Ibelieve,tobefoundamongstthem.

[165]Wanisabout5600feetabovethelevelofthesea.

[166]Thisinscriptionwascopied,withastrongtelescope,bySchulz,andispublishedwiththerestofhistranscripts.

[167]TheMussulmanshaveonlytwogreatannualfeastsinwhichlaborgiveswaytorejoicingsandfestivities;theChristiansofallsectshavelittleelsebutfastsandfestivalsthroughouttheyear.AlazyChristianwilladdtohisownholidaystheFridayoftheMohammedans,andtheSaturdayoftheJews.

[168]ThedesireofalargenumberoftheArmenianstoimprovetheir

institutions,andtoadoptthemannersofEurope,isahighlyinteresting,andindeedimportant,fact.Iwasamused,afterhavingcontributedatrifletothefundsoftheschool,athavingpresentedtomeaneatlyprintedandornamentedreceipt,withtheamountofmydonationdulyfilledupintheblankspaceleftforthepurpose,thedocumentbeingsignedbytheheadoftheschool.

[169]IcannotrefrainfromrecordingthenamesoftheRev.Messrs.Goddall,Dwight,Holmes,Hamlin,andSchauffler,oftheConstantinoplemissionarystation;thelateexcellentandenterprisingDr.Smith,who,liketheestimableDr.Grant,hisfellow-laborerinthesamefield,andmanyothersofhiscountrymen,hasrecentlyfallenavictimtohiszealanddevotion;theRev.EliSmithofBeyrout,andPerkinsofOoroomiyah;

menwhowilleverbeconnectedwiththefirstspreadofknowledgeandtruthamongsttheChristiansoftheEast,andofwhomtheircountrymayjustlybeproud.PersonallyImustexpressmygratitudetothemformanyactsofkindnessandfriendship.TheAmericanmissionhasnowestablishmentsinSmyrna,Brousa,Trebizond,Erzeroom,Diarbekir,Mosul,Aintab,Aleppo,andmanyothercitiesinAsiaMinor,togetherwithnativeagentsalloverTurkey.

[170]TheseveralstreamsformingtheheadwatersoftheeasternbranchoftheTigrismentionedinthisChapterwerenotbeforeknown,Ibelieve,togeographers.

[171]TheencampmentatBilliwas8612feetabovethelevelofthesea.

[172]ThebearingIobtainedofMountArarat(N.15°.30"E.),correspondscorrectlywithitspositiononthebestmaps.Ourdistancewasabout145miles.

[173]ThosewhowishtohaveapainfulpictureofthenatureoftheinterferenceamongsttheNestorians,towhichIallude,mayreadMr.Badger'sNestoriansandtheirRituals,andMr.Fletcher'sTravelsinAssyria.AlthoughMr.Badgernaturallygiveshisownversionofthesetransactions,theimpartialreaderwillhavenodifficultyinseeingthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


misfortunestowhichtheunfortunateoppositiontotheAmericanmissionsnaturallyled.

[174]ConsulsaresocalledinSouthernTurkeyandPersia,andallEuropeanstrangersaresupposedtobeconsuls.


[176]OnmyreturntoMosulIsenttoConstantinopleareportoftheexactionsandcrueltiestowhichtheNestorianshadbeensubjectedbytheirTurkishrulers;butnothing,Ifear,hasbeendonetoamendtheircondition.

[177]Thisbas-reliefisnowintheBritishMuseum.

[178]Cyrop.lib.viii.c.3.

[179]Quint.Curt.lib.iii.c.3.IhavequotedthisdescriptioninmyNinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.p.279.ThePersianking,althoughrepresentedonthewallsofPersepoliswithacrown,alsoworeahighcaporuprightturban,aswelearnfromXenophon(Anab.lib.ii.c.5).

[180]2Kings,xvii.6.

[181]Cyruscoveredhischariot-horses,allbuttheeyes,witharmour.(Xenophon,Inst.1.vi.)

[182]Wilkinson'sAncientEgyptians,vol.ii.p.109.

[183]Somanycharactersareunfortunatelywantinginthisepigraph,thattheinscriptioncannotbesatisfactorilytranslated.Itcommences,itwouldappear,withthenameoftheSusianianking,althoughwrittenwithoutthefirstcharacterfoundontheotherslabs.Thecaptive,however,wasnotthemonarchhimself,whowasslain,asithasbeenseen,inthebattle.ThenameofShushan,written,asinthebookofDaniel,forSusa,ishighlyinteresting.Itplacesbeyondadoubttheidentificationofthesiteofthecampaign.

[184]1Sam.xviii.6.

[185]Isaiah,v.12.InDaniel,iii.5.,wehavementionofthe"cornet,flute,harp,sackbut,psaltery,anddulcimer;"butitisscarcelypossibletodeterminewhattheseinstrumentsreallywere:theyprobablyresembledthoserepresentedinthebas-reliefsdescribedinthetext.TheinstrumentoftenstringsmentionedinPsalmxxxiii.2.,xlii.3.,andcxliv.9.,mayhavebeentheharpofthesculptures,andthepsalterythesmallerstringedinstrument.

[186]Niebuhr'sThirty-fourthLectureonAncientHistory.

[187]SeeespeciallyNarrativeofaResidenceinKoordistan,&c.,bythelateC.J.Rich,Esq,.vol.ii.chap,xviii.

[188]Daniel,iii.

[189]ThewhiteassofBaghdadismuchesteemedintheEast.Someareofconsiderablesize,and,whenfancifullydyedwithhenna,theirtailsandearsbrightred,andtheirbodiesspotted,likeanheraldictalbot,withthesamecolor,theybearthechiefpriestsandthemenofthelaw,astheyappeartohavedonefromtheearliesttimes.(Judges,v.10.)

7/31/2019 Ninevah


[190]Baghdadcontained,beforethegreatplagueof1830,110,000inhabitants,butcannowscarcelyholdmanymorethan50,000.ItisdividedintotwopartsbytheTigris,thesmallerquartersformingsuburbsonthewesternbank.

[191]Jeremiah,1.38.

[192]ThisistheKasrofRichandsubsequenttravellers.

[193]Isaiah,xiii.19-22.,andcompareJeremiah,1.39.:"thereforethewildbeastsofthedesertwiththewildbeastsoftheislandshalldwellthere,andthe_owls_shalldwelltherein."Alargegreyowlisfoundingreatnumbers,frequentlyinflocksofnearlyahundred,inthelowshrubsamongtheruinsofBabylon.

[194]FromthistribewasthecelebratedladyofHaroun-al-Reshid,"theZobeide,"asshewascalledfromherorigin.

[195]Thegeneroushospitalityfrequentlyshownbymenliving,likeZaid,uponthesmallestmeans,isoneofthemostinterestingfeaturesofArabcharacter.

[196]ThemostaccurateandcarefuldescriptionisthatbyMr.Rich,to

whomIshallhavefrequentoccasiontorefer,andwhosevaluablememoirsonthesiteofthecityweremytext-booksduringmyresearchesatBabylon.Inthepreface,byhiswidow,tothecollectededitionofhismemoirs,willbefoundaninterestingsummaryoftheresearchesanddiscoveriesofprevioustravellers.KerPorter,Mr.Buckingham,andseveralothertravellers,havegivenaccountsmoreorlessfulloftheruins.

[197]Abydenusstates(ap.Euseb.Præp.Evang.l.ix.c.41.)thatthefirstwallofBabylon,builtbyBelus,haddisappeared,andwasrebuiltbyNebuchadnezzar.Itmustbeborneinmindhowmuchancientauthorscopiedfromoneanother.NearlyallthedescriptionswhichhavereachedusofBabylonappeartohavebeenfoundedontheaccountofHerodotusandthe

uncertainstatementsofCtesias.

[198]Ihadvisiteditonseveraloccasionsduringpreviousjourneys.Forthefirsttimein1840,withMr.Mitford.

[199]ThesedimensionsarefromRich.Iwasunabletotakeanymeasurementsduringmyhurriedvisit.

[200]SeeChap.XI.

[201]Lib.ii.c.8.

[202]Lib.ii.c.10.SuchistheformthatCalmetandotherantiquaries

havegiventothehanginggardensofBabylonintheirrestoredplansofthecity.


[204]Isaiah,xiv.23.

[205]OntheTigris,nearitsjunctionwiththeEuphrates,isthetraditionarytombofEzra.TheJews,fromthefirstcenturiesoftheChristianera,alsoappeartohavevisitedthisspotastheplaceof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


sepultureoftheprophet.BenjaminofTudelasaysofit,"ThesepultureofEzra,thepriestandscribe,isinthisplace(namelost),wherehediedonhisjourneyfromJerusalemtoKingArtaxerxes."Intheearlypartofthe13thcentury,acelebratedJewishpoet,namedJehudaCharisibenSalomo,describedbothtombsinverse.(Dr.Zunz'sEssayin2dvolumeofAsher'sed.ofBenjaminofTudela.)

[206]Foraninterestingaccountofthosesingularrelics,andfortranslationsoftheinscriptionsonthebowls,seethelargerworkin8vo.

[207]JosephusagainstAppian,l.i.cviii.TheJewishhistorianquotesfromHecatæus,whogivesacharacteristicaccountoftheattachmentoftheJewstotheirfaith.

[208]BenjaminofTudela'sTravels;andseeMilman'sHistoryoftheJews,bookxix.&c.

[209]Theformoftheletterscertainlyapproachthecuneiformcharacterwhenwrittenwithsimplelines,asitissometimesseenonAssyrianrelicsandmonuments.(SeeNinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.p.143.)Iamnot,however,atpresentreadytoadmitthattheearlyChaldeesquareletterswerederivedfromthissource.

[210]SeeBookofEnochtranslatedbyArchbishopLawrence,particularly

chap.vii.sect.2.andchap.lxviii.Amongthenamesoftheangelswhocamedowntothedaughtersofmenandinstructedtheminsorceryandthemagicarts,wefindTamiel,Agheel,Azael,andRamiel.

[211]Strabo,lib.xvi.p.1049.Oxf.ed.Arrian,lib.vii.17.

[212]Isaiah,xxi.9.

[213]Daniel,v.5.

[214]Estheri.6.

[215]ThisinscriptionwasobtainedfromsomeruinsnearBaghdadbySir

HarfordJones,andisnowintheMuseumoftheEastIndiaCompany.Afacsimileofithasbeenpublished.

[216]NinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.2dpart,chap.ii.

[217]TheusualdimensionsoftheBabylonianbricksareasnearlyaspossibleonefootsquare,bythreeandahalfinchesthick.Richsaysthirteeninchessquare.Mr.BirchhasconjecturedthattheymayrepresentmultiplesofsomeBabylonianmeasure,perhapsthecubit.

[218]Mr.BirchhasfoundmorethanonenoticeofBabylononEgyptianmonumentsofthetimeofThothmesIII.

[219]Ezekiel,xvii.4.

[220]Daniel,v.30,31.ThiseventtookplaceB.C.538.WhethertheDariusofthebookofDanielbeCyrushimself,oraMedianwhocommandedthearmiesofthatmonarch,andwasafterwardsappointedviceroyofBabylon,isoneofthemanydisputedpointsofancienthistory.

[221]Arrian,Exp.Alex.1.vii.c.17.SeeJeremy'sEpistleintheApocryphalhookofBaruch,vi.10,11,and28,forinstancesofthecupidityoftheBabylonianpriests.Theyhadevenstrippedtheidolsof

7/31/2019 Ninevah


theirrobesandornamentstoadorntheirwivesandchildren.ThisepistlecontainsaverycuriousaccountoftheidolworshipoftheBabylonians.

[222]Isaiah,xiv.23.Jeremiah,li.42.

[223]SeeaninterestingMemoironBabylon,byM.deSt.Croix,inthe48thvol.oftheTransactionsoftheAcadémiedesInscriptionsetBellesLettres,inwhichalltheauthoritiesonthesubjectofthegradualdecayofthecityarecollected.

[224]Isaiah,xliii.14.

[225]Ezekiel,xxvii.15.

[226]OftheearlyreputationoftheloomsofBabylonwemayformanideafromthefactof"agoodlyBabylonishgarment"(_i.e._garmentofShinar)beingmentionedinthebookofJoshua(vii.21)amongsttheobjectsburiedbyAchaninhistent.InacuriousdecreeofthetimeofDiocletian,regulatingthemaximumvalueofarticlesofclothingandfoodthroughouttheRomanempire,severalobjectsfromBabylonarespecified.Babylonianskinsofthefirstqualityareratedat500denarii;ofthesecondqualityat40;Babylonianshoes,calledmullai,at120denariiperpair;andaBabyloniangirdleat100.PlainBabyloniansocksarealsomentioned,buttheamountatwhichtheywerevaluediswanting.Thisdecreewas

discoveredatEskiHissar,theancientStratoniceia,inAsiaMinor.(SeeLeake'sAsiaMinor.)

[227]"AndthemenofCuthmadeNergal,"inSamaria,wheretheyhadbeentransplantedafterthefirstcaptivity.(2Kings,xvii.30.)ThecountryoftheCuthiteswasprobablyintheneighbourhoodofBabylon,thoughthecommentatorshavenotagreeduponitsexactsite.JosephussaysthatitwasinPersia(Antiq.ix.14.)

[228]xviii2.

[229]ThecommonnotionamongstignorantMohammedansis,thataneclipseiscausedbysomeevilspiritcatchingholdofthesunormoon.Onsuch

occasions,inEasterntowns,thewholepopulationassembleswithpots,pans,andotherequallyrudeinstrumentsofmusic,and,withtheaidoftheirlungs,makeadinandturmoilwhichmightsufficetodriveawayawholearmyofevilspirits,evenatsogreatadistance.

[230]NinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.p.139,note.

[231]Isaiah,xxi.1.

[232]Ihavelatelylearnt,tomygreatgrief,thatpoorSuttumhasbeenkilledinsomeaffraywiththeAneyza.

[233]Ofthesamesizeandformasthatcontainingtherecordsof

Essarhaddon,givenbymetotheBritishMuseum.Ithasbeenonlypartlyrestored,andtheinscription,whichappearstobehistorical,hasnotyetbeendeciphered.

[234]SeeChapter20.

[235]Isaiah,xxxvii.18,19.

[236]1Kings,vii.23-25.ThebrazenseaofSolomonstoodupontwelveoxen,threefacingeachcardinalpoint.Itmustbeborneinmindthatthe

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Assyriansculptorfrequentlyrepresentedonlyonefiguretosignifymany,andthatmorethanoneoxprobablysupportedthevesselportrayedinthisbas-relief.

[237]Thesemeasurementsmerelyincludethatpartofthepalaceactuallyexcavated.

[238]Sincemydepartureafineentirebas-reliefhas,Iunderstand,beenfoundneartheruinedtombinthecentreofthemound.

[239]Thedistancefromcentretocentreofthepedestalsfacingeachotherwas9feetthreeinches;theirdiameter,11-1/2inchesinthebroadestpart.Thesecondpairfoundwereabout84feetdistantfromthefirst.Thereweretheremainsofawallofsundriedbricks,6feet3inchesfromthecentreofoneofthepedestals.

[240]Tacit.Ann.lib.xii.c.13.,andAmmianusMarcell.1.xxiii.c.20.ThelatterauthorespeciallymentionsthatthetownhadbelongedtothePersians.

[241]InthesameshapeastheEgyptian.(SeeWilkinson'sAncientEgyptians,vol.ii.p.112.)

[242]SeeNinevehanditsRemains,vol.i.Introduction,p.xiv.Benjamin

ofTudelaplacesthetombofNahumatAinJaphata,tothesouthofBabylon.

[243]AccordingtoCol.Rawlinson(OutlinesofAssyrianHistory,p.xx.),toNeptuneorNoah!

[244]TheactualweightofthelargeducksintheBritishMuseumbeing480oz.troy,themanawouldbeequalto16oz.,withasmallfractionover.TheAtticmanahasbeencomputedtobe14oz.,withasmallfraction.ItwouldconsequentlybetotheBabyloniantalentas7to8.AccordingtoHerodotus(lib.iii.c.89.)theEuboeantalentwastotheBabylonianas6to7.Ifthisstatementbecorrect,theEuboeanwouldbetotheAtticas48to49.(Dr.Hincks.)

[245]Onecylinderbearshisname.

[246]Lib.i.c.195.Asawrittensignatureisofnovalue,exceptinparticularcases,intheEast,andasalldocumentstobevalidmustbesealedwithsealsbearingthenamesofthepartiestothem,theengravedsignetisofgreatimportance,andthetradeofanengraveroneofconsiderableresponsibility.Thepunishmentforforgingsealsisverysevere,andtherearemanyregulationsenforcedforsecuringtheirauthenticity.

[247]CompareJob,xxxviii.14."Itisturnedasclaytotheseal."

[248]Compare1Kings,xix.16.and2Kings,ix.2.

[249]SargoniscalledonthemonumentsofKhorsabad,"theconquerorofSamariaandofthecircuitofBethKhumri."(Dr.Hincks,Trans,oftheR.IrishAcad.vol.xx.)

[250]1Kings,xix.15.

[251]ColonelRawlinsonsuggestsabout930B.C.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


[252]Especiallyif,asEgyptianscholarsstillmaintain,thenameisfoundonEgyptianmonumentsofthe18thdynasty.

[253]SeemyNinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.p.155,wherethisgenealogywasfirstpointedout.

[254]Discoveredduringthefirstexpedition.(NinevehanditsRemains,vol.i.p.83.)

[255]ThisinterestingdiscoverywasfirstannouncedintheAthenæumofJan.3,1852.

[256]ThesethreekingscameagainstIsrael(2Kings,xv.19,and29,and1Chron.v.26);butPulisparticularlymentionedasreceivingtributefromMenahem,andTiglathPileser,ascarryingawayIsraelitesintocaptivityinthetimeofPekah,betweenwhosereignandthatofMenahemonlytwoyearselapsed.(2Kings,xv.23.)

[257]SeeaninterestingnoteonthissubjectinRich'sNarrative,vol.ii.p.123.

[258]2Chron.xxxiii.

[259]Wehaveacuriousillustrationofthemagnificentsuicideof

SardanapalusinthehistoryofZimri,kingofIsrael."Anditcametopass,whenZimrisawthatthecitywastaken,thathewentintothepalaceoftheking'shouse,andburnttheking'shouseoverhimwithfireanddied."1Kingsxvii.18.Thereisnothing,therefore,improbableintheromantichistoryoftheAssyrianking.

[260]ThereadingaccordingtoCol.RawlinsonismarkedR--thataccordingtoDr.Hincks,H.


[262]ItwasnotnecessarytotheeffectofhispreachingthatJonahshouldbeofthereligionofthepeopleofNineveh.Ihaveknowna

ChristianpriestfrightenawholeMussulmantowntotentsandrepentancebypubliclyproclaimingthathehadreceivedadivinemissiontoannounceacomingearthquakeorplague.

[263]2Kings,xx.19.

[264]2Kings,xxv.19.

[265]Drivingawaythecattleandsheepofaconqueredpeople,andaccountingthemamongsttheprincipalspoil,haseverbeenthecustomofEasternnationswhohavenotaltogetherrenouncedanomadiclife,andwhosechiefwealthconsequentlyconsistedintheseanimals.WhenAsadefeatedtheEthiopians,"hecarriedawaysheepandcamelsinabundance;

andreturnedtoJerusalem."(2Chron.xiv.15.)

[266]Thesamethingmay,indeed,beinferredfromseveralpassagesinChroniclesandKings.Seeparticularly2Kings,xvi.7,xvii.4.

[267]1Kings,iv.21,and24."_Hereignedoverallthekings_fromtheriverevenuntothelandofthePhilistinesandtotheborderofEgypt;"andthekings"broughthimeverymanhispresent,vesselsofsilver,andvesselsofgold,andraiment,harness,andspices,horsesandmules,arateyearbyyear."(2Chron.ix.24,26.)Suchwereprobablythevery

7/31/2019 Ninevah


articlesbroughtyearlytotheAssyrianking,andenumeratedinhisrecords.

[268]2Chron.v.62.

[269]1Chron.v.6and26.

[270]2Kings,xvii.6,xviii.11.

[271]2Kings,xvii.29.

[272]Seewoodcuts,NinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.p.340.

[273]Ch.iii.12-14.

[274]FromthispropylæumcamethetwocolossalbullsintheBritishMuseum;itwaspartoftheroyalpalace.

[275]NinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.partii.ch.2.ArecenttrigonometricalsurveyofthecountrybyCaptainJonesproves,Iaminformed,thatthegreatruinsofKouyunjik,Nimroud,Karamless,andKhorsabad,formverynearlyaperfectparallelogram,correspondingwiththeconjectureIventuredtomakeinmyformerwork.Arecentwriter(Bonomi,NinevehanditsPalaces,p.94),adoptingthetheoryofthe

greaterextentofNineveh,hasendeavoredtoprovethattheGebelMakloubistheremainsofitseasternwalls,statingthathe"hasthetestimonyofa_recentobservant_traveller,Mr.Barker,whohasnodoubtthattheso-called'mountain'isentirelytheworkofman."UnfortunatelyithappensthattheGebelMakloubissomewhathigher,andfarmoreprecipitousandrockythantheMalvernhills.Itwould,indeed,haverequiredTitanstoraisesuchaheaven-reachingwall!ScarcelylessextravagantaretheconjecturesthatthemoundiscalledKouyumjik,notKouyunjik,becausesilverornamentsmayhavebeenfoundthere,andthatYaroumjeh,amereTurkishnamemeaning"half-wayvillage,"is"roum,""signifyingtheterritoryandinhabitantsoftheRomanempire,"and,consequently,apartofNineveh,"Romanandancientbeingsynonymousterms!"Theline,too,indicatedinMr.Bonomi'sdiagramfortheformer

bedoftheTigris,inordertocompletetheparallelogram,wouldtaketheriveroverarangeofsteeplimestonehills.Imayhereobservethatthenameof"Niniouah"isnotknowninthecountryasappliedeithertothemoundofNebbiYunus,oranyotherruininthecountry.Beforefoundingtheoriesuponsuchgrounds,itwouldbeaswelltohavesomelittleacquaintancewiththelocalitiesandwiththelanguagesspokenbythepeopleofthecountry.

[276]1Kings,v.15.

[277]TheJewishcubitappearstohavebeenabouteighteeninches.

[278]Theheight,accordingto2Chron.iii.4,was120cubits,which

wouldappeartobeanerrorsliptintothetext,althoughJosephusgivesthesamedimensions,addinganupperstoryorstructure.

[279]Mr.Fergussonhaspointedout,fromtheaccountofJosephus,theprobabilityofthetemplehavinghadtwostories.(ThePalacesofNinevehrestored,p.222.)

[280]SeeCalmet'sDictionaryoftheBible.

[281]SeefrontispiecetoFergusson'sPalacesofNinevehrestored.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


[282]Josephus,b.viii.c.2.Fergusson'sPalacesofNineveh,p.229.

[283]ItwillberememberedthattheannalsonthebullsofKouyunjikincludesixyearsofhisreign,andmustconsequentlyhavebeeninscribedonthemintheseventhyear.

[284]1Kings,v.8.

[285]SeeFrontispiecetothisvolume.

[286]SuchalsoappearstohavebeenthecaseatNimroud.

[287]1Kings,vii.2.Itisonlybysupposingittohavebeenonegreathallthatwecanatallunderstandtheproportionsandformofthebuildingassubsequentlygiven.TheHebrewword,asitsArabicequivalentstilldoes,willbearbothmeanings.Pharaoh'sdaughter'shouse,whichwas"_likeuntotheporch_,"wasprobablytheharemorprivateapartment.

[288]PalacesofNinevehrestored,p.181.ThattheAssyrianswere,however,acquaintedwithslantingroofsmaybeinferredfromabas-reliefdiscoveredatKhorsabad.(Botta,Plate141.)

[289]Jerem.xix.13.

[290]NinevehanditsRemains,vol.ii.partii.ch.2.

[291]Daniel,v.5.

[292]1Kings,vi.28.Icannot,however,butexpressmyconvictionthatmuchofthemetalcalledgoldbothinthesacredwritingsandintheprofaneauthorsofantiquity,wasreallycopper,alloyedwithothermetals,theaurichalcum,ororichalcum,oftheGreeks,suchaswasusedinthebowlsandplatesdiscoveredatNimroud.

[293]Richestimatestheentirelengthoftheinclosureataboutfourmiles,anditsgreatestbreadthatnearlytwo.Thisappearstomerather

abovetheactualextentoftheruins.Itmustalsoberememberedthattheynarrowofffromthenorthernsidetoafewhundredyardsatthesouthern.IhavenothithertohadtimetolaydownmysurveyofNimroud.Thegeneralplanofthemoundinmyfirstworkmustbeconsideredasamereroughsketch.

[294]Rich'sNarrative,vol.ii.p.60.

[295]ItwillbeborneinmindthattheTigrishasnowchangeditscourse.

[296]AccordingtoMr.Rich,thedistancefromtheinsideoftheinnerwalltotheinsideoftheouterwas2007feet.Allowing200feetfortheouterthebreadthofthewholefortificationswouldbeabout2200feet,or

notfarfromhalfamile.

[297]Ifthecity,orthispartofit,wereevertakenbytheriverhavingbeenturneduponthewalls,assomeancientauthorshavedeclared,thebreachmusthavebeenmadeatthenorth-westerncorner.Therearenotracesofit.

[298]SirAnthonyShirley'sTravelsinPersia.Purchas,vol.ii.p.1387.

[299]NarrativeofaResidenceinKurdistan,vol.i.pp.40,51.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Transcriber'sNotes:

Passagesinitalicsareindicatedby_italics_.

Theoriginaltextcontainsoneletterwithadiacriticalmarkthatisnotrepresentedinthistextversion.

TheoriginaltextincludesGreekcharacters.Forthistextversiontheselettershavebeenreplacedwithtransliterations.

TheoriginaltextincludesHebrewcharacters.Forthistextversiontheselettershavebeenreplacedwith[Hebrew].

EndoftheProjectGutenbergEBookofDiscoveriesamongtheRuinsofNinevehandBabylon,byAustenH.Layard

***ENDOFTHISPROJECTGUTENBERGEBOOKDISCOVERIESAMONGTHERUINS***

*****Thisfileshouldbenamed39897-8.txtor39897-8.zip*****Thisandallassociatedfilesofvariousformatswillbefoundin:http://www.gutenberg.org/3/9/8/9/39897/

ProducedbyTheOnlineDistributedProofreadingTeamathttp://www.pgdp.net(ThisfilewasproducedfromimagesgenerouslymadeavailablebyTheInternetArchive/AmericanLibraries.)

Updatededitionswillreplacethepreviousone--theoldeditionswillberenamed.

CreatingtheworksfrompublicdomainprinteditionsmeansthatnooneownsaUnitedStatescopyrightintheseworks,sotheFoundation(andyou!)cancopyanddistributeitintheUnitedStateswithoutpermissionandwithoutpayingcopyrightroyalties.Specialrules,setforthintheGeneralTermsofUsepartofthislicense,applytocopyinganddistributingProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkstoprotectthePROJECTGUTENBERG-tmconceptandtrademark.ProjectGutenbergisaregisteredtrademark,andmaynotbeusedifyouchargefortheeBooks,unlessyoureceivespecificpermission.IfyoudonotchargeanythingforcopiesofthiseBook,complyingwiththe

rulesisveryeasy.YoumayusethiseBookfornearlyanypurposesuchascreationofderivativeworks,reports,performancesandresearch.Theymaybemodifiedandprintedandgivenaway--youmaydopracticallyANYTHINGwithpublicdomaineBooks.Redistributionissubjecttothetrademarklicense,especiallycommercialredistribution.

***START:FULLLICENSE***

7/31/2019 Ninevah


THEFULLPROJECTGUTENBERGLICENSEPLEASEREADTHISBEFOREYOUDISTRIBUTEORUSETHISWORK

ToprotecttheProjectGutenberg-tmmissionofpromotingthefreedistributionofelectronicworks,byusingordistributingthiswork(oranyotherworkassociatedinanywaywiththephrase"ProjectGutenberg"),youagreetocomplywithallthetermsoftheFullProjectGutenberg-tmLicenseavailablewiththisfileoronlineatwww.gutenberg.org/license.

Section1.GeneralTermsofUseandRedistributingProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks

1.A.ByreadingorusinganypartofthisProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicwork,youindicatethatyouhaveread,understand,agreetoandacceptallthetermsofthislicenseandintellectualproperty(trademark/copyright)agreement.Ifyoudonotagreetoabidebyallthetermsofthisagreement,youmustceaseusingandreturnordestroyallcopiesofProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworksinyourpossession.IfyoupaidafeeforobtainingacopyoforaccesstoaProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkandyoudonotagreetobeboundbythetermsofthisagreement,youmayobtainarefundfromthepersonor

entitytowhomyoupaidthefeeassetforthinparagraph1.E.8.1.B."ProjectGutenberg"isaregisteredtrademark.Itmayonlybeusedonorassociatedinanywaywithanelectronicworkbypeoplewhoagreetobeboundbythetermsofthisagreement.ThereareafewthingsthatyoucandowithmostProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworksevenwithoutcomplyingwiththefulltermsofthisagreement.Seeparagraph1.Cbelow.TherearealotofthingsyoucandowithProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworksifyoufollowthetermsofthisagreementandhelppreservefreefutureaccesstoProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks.Seeparagraph1.Ebelow.

1.C.TheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation("theFoundation"

orPGLAF),ownsacompilationcopyrightinthecollectionofProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks.NearlyalltheindividualworksinthecollectionareinthepublicdomainintheUnitedStates.IfanindividualworkisinthepublicdomainintheUnitedStatesandyouarelocatedintheUnitedStates,wedonotclaimarighttopreventyoufromcopying,distributing,performing,displayingorcreatingderivativeworksbasedontheworkaslongasallreferencestoProjectGutenbergareremoved.Ofcourse,wehopethatyouwillsupporttheProjectGutenberg-tmmissionofpromotingfreeaccesstoelectronicworksbyfreelysharingProjectGutenberg-tmworksincompliancewiththetermsofthisagreementforkeepingtheProjectGutenberg-tmnameassociatedwiththework.YoucaneasilycomplywiththetermsofthisagreementbykeepingthisworkinthesameformatwithitsattachedfullProject

Gutenberg-tmLicensewhenyoushareitwithoutchargewithothers.

1.D.Thecopyrightlawsoftheplacewhereyouarelocatedalsogovernwhatyoucandowiththiswork.Copyrightlawsinmostcountriesareinaconstantstateofchange.IfyouareoutsidetheUnitedStates,checkthelawsofyourcountryinadditiontothetermsofthisagreementbeforedownloading,copying,displaying,performing,distributingorcreatingderivativeworksbasedonthisworkoranyotherProjectGutenberg-tmwork.TheFoundationmakesnorepresentationsconcerningthecopyrightstatusofanyworkinanycountryoutsidetheUnited

7/31/2019 Ninevah


States.

1.E.UnlessyouhaveremovedallreferencestoProjectGutenberg:

1.E.1.Thefollowingsentence,withactivelinksto,orotherimmediateaccessto,thefullProjectGutenberg-tmLicensemustappearprominentlywheneveranycopyofaProjectGutenberg-tmwork(anyworkonwhichthephrase"ProjectGutenberg"appears,orwithwhichthephrase"ProjectGutenberg"isassociated)isaccessed,displayed,performed,viewed,copiedordistributed:

ThiseBookisfortheuseofanyoneanywhereatnocostandwithalmostnorestrictionswhatsoever.Youmaycopyit,giveitawayorre-useitunderthetermsoftheProjectGutenbergLicenseincludedwiththiseBookoronlineatwww.gutenberg.org

1.E.2.IfanindividualProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkisderivedfromthepublicdomain(doesnotcontainanoticeindicatingthatitispostedwithpermissionofthecopyrightholder),theworkcanbecopiedanddistributedtoanyoneintheUnitedStateswithoutpayinganyfeesorcharges.Ifyouareredistributingorprovidingaccesstoaworkwiththephrase"ProjectGutenberg"associatedwithorappearingonthework,youmustcomplyeitherwiththerequirementsofparagraphs1.E.1through1.E.7orobtainpermissionfortheuseoftheworkandthe

ProjectGutenberg-tmtrademarkassetforthinparagraphs1.E.8or1.E.9.

1.E.3.IfanindividualProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkispostedwiththepermissionofthecopyrightholder,youruseanddistributionmustcomplywithbothparagraphs1.E.1through1.E.7andanyadditionaltermsimposedbythecopyrightholder.AdditionaltermswillbelinkedtotheProjectGutenberg-tmLicenseforallworkspostedwiththepermissionofthecopyrightholderfoundatthebeginningofthiswork.

1.E.4.DonotunlinkordetachorremovethefullProjectGutenberg-tmLicensetermsfromthiswork,oranyfilescontainingapartofthisworkoranyotherworkassociatedwithProjectGutenberg-tm.

1.E.5.Donotcopy,display,perform,distributeorredistributethiselectronicwork,oranypartofthiselectronicwork,withoutprominentlydisplayingthesentencesetforthinparagraph1.E.1withactivelinksorimmediateaccesstothefulltermsoftheProjectGutenberg-tmLicense.

1.E.6.Youmayconverttoanddistributethisworkinanybinary,compressed,markedup,nonproprietaryorproprietaryform,includinganywordprocessingorhypertextform.However,ifyouprovideaccesstoordistributecopiesofaProjectGutenberg-tmworkinaformatotherthan"PlainVanillaASCII"orotherformatusedintheofficialversionpostedontheofficialProjectGutenberg-tmwebsite(www.gutenberg.org),

youmust,atnoadditionalcost,feeorexpensetotheuser,provideacopy,ameansofexportingacopy,orameansofobtainingacopyuponrequest,oftheworkinitsoriginal"PlainVanillaASCII"orotherform.AnyalternateformatmustincludethefullProjectGutenberg-tmLicenseasspecifiedinparagraph1.E.1.

1.E.7.Donotchargeafeeforaccessto,viewing,displaying,performing,copyingordistributinganyProjectGutenberg-tmworksunlessyoucomplywithparagraph1.E.8or1.E.9.

7/31/2019 Ninevah


1.E.8.YoumaychargeareasonablefeeforcopiesoforprovidingaccesstoordistributingProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworksprovidedthat

-Youpayaroyaltyfeeof20%ofthegrossprofitsyouderivefromtheuseofProjectGutenberg-tmworkscalculatedusingthemethodyoualreadyusetocalculateyourapplicabletaxes.ThefeeisowedtotheowneroftheProjectGutenberg-tmtrademark,buthehasagreedtodonateroyaltiesunderthisparagraphtotheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation.Royaltypaymentsmustbepaidwithin60daysfollowingeachdateonwhichyouprepare(orarelegallyrequiredtoprepare)yourperiodictaxreturns.RoyaltypaymentsshouldbeclearlymarkedassuchandsenttotheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationattheaddressspecifiedinSection4,"InformationaboutdonationstotheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation."

-Youprovideafullrefundofanymoneypaidbyauserwhonotifiesyouinwriting(orbye-mail)within30daysofreceiptthats/hedoesnotagreetothetermsofthefullProjectGutenberg-tmLicense.YoumustrequiresuchausertoreturnordestroyallcopiesoftheworkspossessedinaphysicalmediumanddiscontinuealluseofandallaccesstoothercopiesofProjectGutenberg-tmworks.

-Youprovide,inaccordancewithparagraph1.F.3,afullrefundofanymoneypaidforaworkorareplacementcopy,ifadefectintheelectronicworkisdiscoveredandreportedtoyouwithin90daysofreceiptofthework.

-YoucomplywithallothertermsofthisagreementforfreedistributionofProjectGutenberg-tmworks.

1.E.9.IfyouwishtochargeafeeordistributeaProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkorgroupofworksondifferenttermsthanaresetforthinthisagreement,youmustobtainpermissioninwritingfromboththeProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationandMichael

Hart,theowneroftheProjectGutenberg-tmtrademark.ContacttheFoundationassetforthinSection3below.

1.F.

1.F.1.ProjectGutenbergvolunteersandemployeesexpendconsiderableefforttoidentify,docopyrightresearchon,transcribeandproofreadpublicdomainworksincreatingtheProjectGutenberg-tmcollection.Despitetheseefforts,ProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks,andthemediumonwhichtheymaybestored,maycontain"Defects,"suchas,butnotlimitedto,incomplete,inaccurateorcorruptdata,transcriptionerrors,acopyrightorotherintellectualpropertyinfringement,adefectiveordamageddiskorothermedium,a

computervirus,orcomputercodesthatdamageorcannotbereadbyyourequipment.

1.F.2.LIMITEDWARRANTY,DISCLAIMEROFDAMAGES-Exceptforthe"RightofReplacementorRefund"describedinparagraph1.F.3,theProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation,theowneroftheProjectGutenberg-tmtrademark,andanyotherpartydistributingaProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkunderthisagreement,disclaimallliabilitytoyoufordamages,costsandexpenses,includinglegalfees.YOUAGREETHATYOUHAVENOREMEDIESFORNEGLIGENCE,STRICT

7/31/2019 Ninevah


LIABILITY,BREACHOFWARRANTYORBREACHOFCONTRACTEXCEPTTHOSEPROVIDEDINPARAGRAPH1.F.3.YOUAGREETHATTHEFOUNDATION,THETRADEMARKOWNER,ANDANYDISTRIBUTORUNDERTHISAGREEMENTWILLNOTBELIABLETOYOUFORACTUAL,DIRECT,INDIRECT,CONSEQUENTIAL,PUNITIVEORINCIDENTALDAMAGESEVENIFYOUGIVENOTICEOFTHEPOSSIBILITYOFSUCHDAMAGE.

1.F.3.LIMITEDRIGHTOFREPLACEMENTORREFUND-Ifyoudiscoveradefectinthiselectronicworkwithin90daysofreceivingit,youcanreceivearefundofthemoney(ifany)youpaidforitbysendingawrittenexplanationtothepersonyoureceivedtheworkfrom.Ifyoureceivedtheworkonaphysicalmedium,youmustreturnthemediumwithyourwrittenexplanation.Thepersonorentitythatprovidedyouwiththedefectiveworkmayelecttoprovideareplacementcopyinlieuofarefund.Ifyoureceivedtheworkelectronically,thepersonorentityprovidingittoyoumaychoosetogiveyouasecondopportunitytoreceivetheworkelectronicallyinlieuofarefund.Ifthesecondcopyisalsodefective,youmaydemandarefundinwritingwithoutfurtheropportunitiestofixtheproblem.

1.F.4.Exceptforthelimitedrightofreplacementorrefundsetforthinparagraph1.F.3,thisworkisprovidedtoyou'AS-IS',WITHNOOTHERWARRANTIESOFANYKIND,EXPRESSORIMPLIED,INCLUDINGBUTNOTLIMITEDTOWARRANTIESOFMERCHANTABILITYORFITNESSFORANYPURPOSE.

1.F.5.Somestatesdonotallowdisclaimersofcertainimpliedwarrantiesortheexclusionorlimitationofcertaintypesofdamages.Ifanydisclaimerorlimitationsetforthinthisagreementviolatesthelawofthestateapplicabletothisagreement,theagreementshallbeinterpretedtomakethemaximumdisclaimerorlimitationpermittedbytheapplicablestatelaw.Theinvalidityorunenforceabilityofanyprovisionofthisagreementshallnotvoidtheremainingprovisions.

1.F.6.INDEMNITY-YouagreetoindemnifyandholdtheFoundation,thetrademarkowner,anyagentoremployeeoftheFoundation,anyoneprovidingcopiesofProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworksinaccordancewiththisagreement,andanyvolunteersassociatedwiththeproduction,

promotionanddistributionofProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks,harmlessfromallliability,costsandexpenses,includinglegalfees,thatarisedirectlyorindirectlyfromanyofthefollowingwhichyoudoorcausetooccur:(a)distributionofthisoranyProjectGutenberg-tmwork,(b)alteration,modification,oradditionsordeletionstoanyProjectGutenberg-tmwork,and(c)anyDefectyoucause.

Section2.InformationabouttheMissionofProjectGutenberg-tm

ProjectGutenberg-tmissynonymouswiththefreedistributionofelectronicworksinformatsreadablebythewidestvarietyofcomputersincludingobsolete,old,middle-agedandnewcomputers.Itexists

becauseoftheeffortsofhundredsofvolunteersanddonationsfrompeopleinallwalksoflife.

VolunteersandfinancialsupporttoprovidevolunteerswiththeassistancetheyneedarecriticaltoreachingProjectGutenberg-tm'sgoalsandensuringthattheProjectGutenberg-tmcollectionwillremainfreelyavailableforgenerationstocome.In2001,theProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationwascreatedtoprovideasecureandpermanentfutureforProjectGutenberg-tmandfuturegenerations.TolearnmoreabouttheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation

7/31/2019 Ninevah


andhowyoureffortsanddonationscanhelp,seeSections3and4andtheFoundationinformationpageatwww.gutenberg.org

Section3.InformationabouttheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation

TheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationisanonprofit501(c)(3)educationalcorporationorganizedunderthelawsofthestateofMississippiandgrantedtaxexemptstatusbytheInternalRevenueService.TheFoundation'sEINorfederaltaxidentificationnumberis64-6221541.ContributionstotheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationaretaxdeductibletothefullextentpermittedbyU.S.federallawsandyourstate'slaws.

TheFoundation'sprincipalofficeislocatedat4557MelanDr.S.Fairbanks,AK,99712.,butitsvolunteersandemployeesarescatteredthroughoutnumerouslocations.Itsbusinessofficeislocatedat809North1500West,SaltLakeCity,UT84116,(801)596-1887.EmailcontactlinksanduptodatecontactinformationcanbefoundattheFoundation'swebsiteandofficialpageatwww.gutenberg.org/contact

Foradditionalcontactinformation:Dr.GregoryB.Newby

[email protected]

Section4.InformationaboutDonationstotheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation

ProjectGutenberg-tmdependsuponandcannotsurvivewithoutwidespreadpublicsupportanddonationstocarryoutitsmissionofincreasingthenumberofpublicdomainandlicensedworksthatcanbefreelydistributedinmachinereadableformaccessiblebythewidestarrayofequipmentincludingoutdatedequipment.Manysmalldonations($1to$5,000)areparticularlyimportanttomaintainingtaxexemptstatuswiththeIRS.

TheFoundationiscommittedtocomplyingwiththelawsregulatingcharitiesandcharitabledonationsinall50statesoftheUnitedStates.Compliancerequirementsarenotuniformandittakesaconsiderableeffort,muchpaperworkandmanyfeestomeetandkeepupwiththeserequirements.Wedonotsolicitdonationsinlocationswherewehavenotreceivedwrittenconfirmationofcompliance.ToSENDDONATIONSordeterminethestatusofcomplianceforanyparticularstatevisitwww.gutenberg.org/donate

Whilewecannotanddonotsolicitcontributionsfromstateswherewehavenotmetthesolicitationrequirements,weknowofnoprohibitionagainstacceptingunsoliciteddonationsfromdonorsinsuchstateswho

approachuswithofferstodonate.

Internationaldonationsaregratefullyaccepted,butwecannotmakeanystatementsconcerningtaxtreatmentofdonationsreceivedfromoutsidetheUnitedStates.U.S.lawsaloneswampoursmallstaff.

PleasechecktheProjectGutenbergWebpagesforcurrentdonationmethodsandaddresses.Donationsareacceptedinanumberofotherwaysincludingchecks,onlinepaymentsandcreditcarddonations.Todonate,pleasevisit:www.gutenberg.org/donate

7/31/2019 Ninevah


Section5.GeneralInformationAboutProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks.

ninevah

Documents