Notes from the ShopsmithWoodworking AcademyBasic techniques for Faceplate Turning

There are two primary functions of the Lathe. The simplest of these is spindle turning wherethe workpiece is supported between two centers and the ultimate result is usually a spindle, shaft,stair rail post or similar cylindrical object where only a single plane of the object is actually shaped.

The second of these functions might best be referred to as “open-ended” turning, where theworkpiece is attached to the rotating Lathe shaft on one end only...leaving the opposite end of thestock free of obstruction in order that it, as well as the sides of the object may be shaped during theturning process. The ultimate result of this process is usually a bowl, vase, platter, tray or similarlyshaped object.

This second approach is most commonly referred to as “Faceplate Turning”...although today’s wood-workers have several devices that allow them to approach this form of turning without the use of aFaceplate. The most common of these substitutes are Screw Centers and special lathe ChuckingSystems. However, in this article, we will only be addressing Faceplate Turning, leaving the otherforms of work-holding for a future discussion.

Preparing the workpiece. If you’re gluing-up your turningblank from a series of smaller pieces of stock, be sure to clampeverything together tightly and allow a full 24 hours for thoroughdrying before starting the actual turning process.

Next, use your Bandsaw or Scroll Saw (if you stock is less than2” thick) to cut the blank into a round shape (See Fig. 1).

The purpose of this rounding process is to minimize vibrations(and the chances of a chisel “snag”) as you begin the turningprocess, so it’s not imperative that your stock be perfectly round.If you don’t own a Bandsaw, cut your blank into an octagonalshape on the MARK V Table Saw with your Miter Gauge set at45-degrees. Be sure to use your Safety Grip to grasp the stockfirmly during this process (See Fig. 2). CAUTION: For the sakeof safety, use a handsaw to cut this octagon if its finished size is tobe less than 8”.

Drill a hole in the center of your stock (from the “face” side) tothe finished depth of your inside contour. This hole will serve asyour “depth indicator” as you turn your object down to its finalprofile.

Figure 1.

Figure 2.

Mounting the stock. There are three basic ways to mount yourworkpiece to the Faceplate.1): If the bottom of your finished object is to be an inch or morethick once it’s turned, the stock can be mounted directly to theFaceplate using #12 x 1” flathead screws (See Fig. 3).

2): If the bottom of your finished object is to be less than an inchthick once it’s turned, use yellow woodworker’s glue to attachyour turning blank to a piece of scrap stock with a piece of brownkraft (grocery sack) paper “sandwiched” between the turningblank and the scrap (See Fig. 4).

Clamp the pieces together firmly overnight, then screw the scrapto your faceplateusing #12 x 1” to 1-1/2” wood screws. When the turning iscompleted, the two pieces of stock can be separated easily byinserting a chisel or similar object between the scrap and yourfinished project. NOTE: The larger your finished turning is tobe, the thicker your scrap piece...and longer your attachingscrews...should be.

3): Another approach involves the use of High Adhesion Double-Stick Tape to hold your stockwhile turning. When using this method, you can either attach the turning black directly to yourFaceplate...or screw a scrap piece to the Faceplate, then attach your turning blank to the scrap usingthis tape.

THREE CAUTIONS:1: Do not try this approach on thick or large workpieces that are more than 1-1/2 times the diameterof the Faceplate you’re using. Also, don’t try this approach with workpieces that are longer (ordeeper) than 8”.

2: Do not use commonly available double-stick carpettape for this method. It is not strong enough to holdyour turning blank and could come loose duringturning, causing personal injury. Use only HighAdhesion Double-Stick Tape.

3: Always cover the entire diameter of your Faceplateor scrap piece with tape and use a clamp or vise toapply sufficient pressure to ensure a solid bondbetween your turning stock and the scrap or Face-plate.

Install and adjust your Tool Rest. The properinstallation and adjustment of your Tool Rest is vitalto your turning success. There are a variety ofdifferent shapes and configurations of Tool Rests

Figure 3.

Figure 4.

Reaches around the back side of faceplateturnings with ease (right top), and provides upclose support, deep inside the deepest bowls(right bottom).

available to bring added rigidity and safety to your work. Andalthough the basic Tool Rest that comes with the ShopsmithMARK V is more than adequate for most jobs, if you’replanning to turn large objects or woods that are particularlytough, you might want to consider Shopsmith’s new UniversalLathe Tool Rest.

This massive, 35-pound accessory features a triple-jointed,articulated arm system that rigidly holds your choice of fourTool Rests at virtually any position inside, around or evenbehind your rotating workpiece...totally eliminating tool“chatter”...even when you’re really “hogging-out” the wood.To this, you can add either the standard, straight Rest thatcame with your MARK V, or one of the three accessory reststhat are made specifically for Faceplate turning. These Acces-sory Rests include:

• A shorter, 4” long Rest that can be positioned all the wayinside small or large Faceplate turnings. See Fig. 5.

• An “S-Shaped” Rest that lets you move from working insideyour turning to shaping its edge. See Fig. 6.

• A 90-degree “V-Shaped” Rest that allows you to makecontinuous, flowing cuts from the inside surfaces to the outsidesurfaces of your turnings. See Fig. 7

Once you’ve chosen the Rest you plan to use, adjust it so thecutting edge of your chisel is in line with the centerline of yourstock (See Fig. 8). Use Safety Goggles or a Face Shield andgo to work.

Getting started. Set your MARK V’s Speed Dial to “slow”and turn he outside of your Faceplate project to round, usingRoundnose Scraping Chisel, ground to an 80-degree bevel. Ifyour Chisel is dull, sharpen it before getting started. TheShopsmith Sharpening Guide or Strip Sander Chisel Sharpen-ing Attachment will help you quickly and accurately performthis job.

Re-set your Speed Dial to “B” or “C” and contour the outsideof your stock using the Roundnose Chisel and a Parting Tool.

NOTE: Speeds given are for turnings 6” to 10” in diameter.For larger projects, use slower speeds.

Begin contouring the inside of your stock by working from the

Figure 5.

Figure 6.

Figure 7.

Figure 8.

outside of your drilled center hole toward the center. Continueworking in this fashion until you achieve your final shape (SeeFig. 9).Sanding. Remove your Tool Rest, slow the MARK V down to“slow” and sand your turning.

Start with coarse or medium grit abrasives and work your waydown to a very vine (220-grit) paper. Be sure to protect theWay Tubes from gritty abrasives and wear a Dust Mask whileperforming this operation.

Figure 9.

Figure 10.