For full-service travel planning, call (800) 375-4685 or email reservations@andrewharper.com.

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T R AV E L I NG T H E WOR L D I N SE A RC H OF T RU LY E NC H A N T I NG PL AC E S

NOVEMBER 2015 | OUR 37TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com

Tropical hardwoods thrive in the volcanic soil, while commonplace houseplants such as variegated crotons grow into towering Technicolor shrubbery. At times, Fiji is reminiscent of an upscale flower shop. And simply inhaling the air feels restorative.

Most international flights arrive in Nadi on Viti Levu, the largest island. It is best to escape this area as soon as possible. The city of Nadi has few charms, and the large resorts on man-made Denarau Island — while adequate for an overnight stay should your flight schedule require it — have little sense of place. Fiji is at its most magical in the outer islands, which, until now, have been home

to all of my recommended resorts: Laucala Island, Yasawa Island and The Wakaya Club. However, Auberge Resorts recently opened a property on the south coast of Viti Levu. Curious to see whether Fiji’s main island had finally acquired a hideaway worthy of consideration, I flew for 30 minutes across the emerald interior to the resort’s airstrip.

The entire Nanuku development, which comprises an 18-room resort and private villas, stretches along almost two miles of beach. The property welcomes children — Australians regard Fiji as a family destination as much as a couples’ escape — but the lodgings have been separated. Families tend

South Pacific Sanctuaries

T EL L ING PEOPL E YOU ’ R E HE A DING TO FIJ I IS A L MOST A S MUCH F U N A S AC T UA L LY G OING

there. Typically, the reaction is undisguised envy. For many, this 333-island archipelago is the embodiment of a tropical paradise. Fiji certainly has no shortage of palm-lined beaches and dazzling coral reefs, but its cultural heritage and ethos of warm, unforced hospitality are also part of the irresistible appeal.

ISL AND -HOPPING IN FIJ I AND VANUATU

Nanuku’s idyllic two-acre private island, located 20 minutes from the resort

THIS MONTH

AN EXOTIC JOURNEY FROM FIJI TO SYDNEY Savoring the azure seas of Melanesia, and Australia’s incomparable metropolis

SUN VALLEY UPDATE The classic Sun Valley Lodge reinvented, plus restaurants and a winter sports briefing

WEB EXCLUSIVES Look for these symbols, then visit the Hideaway Report at AndrewHarper.com. = additional related article = slideshow = video

NOT LONG AGO, luxury

accommodations in China

were confined to the large

eastern cities. But the

Six Senses Qing Cheng

Mountain recently opened

in Sichuan Province. The

Banyan Tree Huangshan

debuted in Anhui Province

in July. And Nanjing

now boasts The Grand

Mansion, designed by I.M.

Pei architects. However,

the new property that

interests me most is

The Temple House in

Chengdu, which combines

cultural preservation —

parts of the property date

from the Qing Dynasty

— with refined contempo-

rary design. Personally, I

am keen to try the “Gong

Fu Panda” package,

which, as well as a tradi-

tional ceremony in the

hotel’s teahouse, includes

two entrance tickets to

the Chengdu giant panda

breeding center.

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This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email clientrelations@andrewharper.com.

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT NOVEMBER 2015

THE WAKAYA CLUB &

SPA has been a favorite

retreat since 1991, when

we had our first of several

stays at this entrancing

hideaway. Wakaya Island

evokes the alluring South

Pacific of Maugham and

Michener, with soaring

cliffs, limpid lagoons

and more than two

dozen pristine beaches.

Wild deer, rare birds,

massive banyan trees and

intriguing archaeological

sites fill the mountainous

interior. Best of all, the

myriad pleasures of

The Wakaya Club —

Champagne picnics on

the beach, snorkeling

around dazzling coral

reefs, relaxing in the

full-service spa, golfing in

a 19th-century coconut

plantation — are limited to

a maximum of 10 couples.

Recently, however, I

became concerned by

reports of “tired” rooms

that were “not quaint,

but just old.” It seemed

likely that the resort was

due for a renovation. And

that is exactly what the

owners decided to do.

From January 25 to March

31, 2016, The Wakaya

Club will close to freshen

its 10 bures (guest villas)

and to rebuild its entire

dining and pool deck.

We can expect to see

brighter décor in the bures

enhanced by upgraded

lighting, among other

improvements.

When The Wakaya Club

reopens on April 1, I have

no doubt it will reclaim

its place among Fiji’s top

luxury hideaways.

A Fiji Classic Restored

to stay in one of the six beachfront villas (which offer two or more bedrooms), whereas couples opt for the Vunikau Suites atop a hill. Thatched roofs give all of the buildings traditional profiles and allow them to blend into the palm-studded landscape behind the resort. All accommodations have sea views.

Although we had reserved a Vunikau Pool Suite, we found that we had been upgraded to the vast Vunikau Penthouse. The door was opened by our “Villa Mama,” Ani. A wine-tasting room and media room — complete with a wall-size projection screen and dining table for eight — flanked the entrance hall, which opened onto a vaulted great room with hardwood floors, walls of polished stones, and log beams capped with magimagi (coconut fiber) cloth supporting ceilings clad in traditional pandanus mats. Beyond the kitchen, a group of hemp-rope sofas and armchairs stood opposite a bar, above which glowed a cascade of illuminated mother-of-pearl shells. A grand terrace wrapped around three sides of the suite and came with a gas grill, a hot tub and an infinity plunge pool. It was all rather overwhelming.

Upstairs, the master suite was notable for its jetted tub, dual vanities carved from boulders, and two additional terraces: “One for sunrise and one for sunset,” Ani cheerfully noted, as she unpacked our bags. Later, at the main bar, we encountered one of the resort’s investors. “You’re in the Penthouse?” he inquired. “In my opinion, that’s the finest house in all of Fiji.” I saw no reason to dispute his assertion.

It required some effort, but we did leave the Penthouse from time to time, descending the hill in our golf cart or walking down the steps leading from our terrace directly to the beach. Each morning before a breakfast of tropical fruit and hibiscus tea smoothies, we would explore tidal pools populated by sea urchins, crabs and starfish. We also went on a “food safari” led by our “Villa Buddy,” Taukini,

during which we toured a crab farm and watched a woman fetch prawns straight from a creek. We enjoyed a platter of the crustaceans at dinner, along with kokoda, a ceviche-like appetizer; feta-stuffed pork fillet with wild ota fern and a pumpkin croquette; and a papaya bavarois with passion fruit coulis and coconut sorbet. Alas, the waterfall hike we had reserved in advance was, irritatingly, canceled twice, so we arranged a Zodiac bird-watching trip through the mangroves directly behind the hotel. Nanuku also organizes activities such as kayaking, yoga and bike rides.

Thirty minutes to the south by boat, Royal Davui appeared to be an ideal counterpoint to a stay

at Nanuku. This 16-villa family-owned resort gets a lot right, especially its open-air bar and restaurant, laid out on several levels around a giant banyan tree overlooking the sea. Our spacious villa featured contemporary Fijian design in its living room and separate bedroom, a roof that could be opened with the flip of a switch, and a terrace with a heated plunge pool. A reef surrounds most of the island, and we enjoyed excellent snorkeling right off the pier.

Yet the service at Royal Davui lacked the ir-repressible warmth of Nanuku’s, and its restaurant was inferior. So for the ultimate Fiji vacation, I recommend a stay at Nanuku, followed by several nights at one of my recommended resorts on the outer islands.

Vanuatu

The 80 islands that make up the archipelago of Vanuatu lie two hours, 30 minutes west of Fiji

by nonstop flight. Vanuatu entered the American consciousness briefly during World War II, when it hosted a large military base, and again as the setting of James A. Michener’s “Tales of the South Pacific,”

The Wakaya Club spa

Penthouse terrace and great room at NanukuT

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NOVEMBER 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3

famously adapted by Rodgers and Hammerstein. Otherwise, it has remained more or less removed from the world.

A 45-minute flight north of the capital, Port Vila, lies Ratua Private Island eco-lodge. Its owners initially intended to maintain the island as a personal retreat, but eventually, they opted to develop it into a stylish but casual resort, all the profits of which go to improving local schools. Guests stay in one of 13 Indonesian wood farmhouses, estimated to be around 200 years old, which were painstakingly restored by artisans on Bali before being disassembled and moved to Ratua Island.

Our house, “Cobra,” had a vaulted thatched roof, a comfortable canopy bed festooned with mosquito netting, two leather-upholstered armchairs and a vintage armoire. In a separate house connected by a short wooden walkway, the bath provided dual vanities surmounted by elaborately framed mirrors, and a wood-floored shower. A furnished terrace faced our private stretch of beach, where two loungers occupied a rise shaded by a giant vutu tree.

Much as I enjoyed these accommodations, they are clearly not for everyone. Those unwilling to forgo air-conditioning or in-room Wi-Fi should look elsewhere. In addition, the windows have no glass or screens, and the doors lack exterior locks. Yet these ostensible flaws mattered not a whit on Ratua Island, which quickly cast a spell of contentment. Gentle breezes supplemented by a ceiling fan kept us cool at night; bugs didn’t bother us; and we left our villa’s doors wide open except when we slept, which inspired an unexpected sense of freedom.

Cobra stands in the West Point Village, my favorite of the three clusters of accommodations because of the privacy afforded by most of its houses. The courtyard-style Fish Village is usually reserved for families. South Point Village has houses similar to those in West, but it is a longer walk to the Yacht Club, the heart of the resort and the home of the bar, surprisingly chic lounge (with Wi-Fi), game room and main restaurant, which presents simple but delicious seafood-focused meals accented by local produce. An additional beachside restaurant served as a delightful venue for lunches and a festive barbecue dinner one night, during which a group of local women performed traditional water music by rhythmically slapping and splashing the sea.

Activities include paddle boarding, kayaking and snorkeling around the island’s reef. One day, we circumnavigated the island by horseback, riding through its groves of mature coconut palms and

E Q U AT O R

FIJIFRENCH

POLYNESIA(TAHITI)

NEW ZEALANDSYDNEY

CHINA

JAPAN

S o u t hP a c i f i cO c e a n

0 1,000 MI500

0 1,000 KM500

HAWAII

LOS ANGELES

UNITED STATES

MEXICO

I N T E R N AT I O N A LD AT E L I N E

M o n d a y S u n d a y

P A C I F I C O C E A N

BEIJING

SHANGHAITOKYO

AMERICANSAMOA

COOKISLANDS

MICRONESIA

SOLOMONISLANDS

INDONESIA

PHILIPPINES

ECUADORGALAPAGOS

ISLANDS

CHILE

EASTERISLAND

SANTIAGO

PERU

QUITO

VANUATU

4 H

RS

3.5 H

RS

2.5 HRS

AUSTRALIA

PORTVILA

NADISUVA

patches of mangrove forest. After an hour or so, we returned to the corral, removed the saddles, donned our swimsuits and rode straight into the sea. Guests can also take advantage of a spectacular overwater spa.

Service tended to match the quality of the facilities, getting everything right that really mattered. Excursions and transfers went smoothly. Shyness sometimes prevented proactive service. But having to go to the bar to ask for a drink myself felt like a small price to pay for the experience of a place so thoroughly unique and unspoiled. H

To see my South Pacific itinerary, visit andrewharper.com/go/fiji.

“ Vanuatu entered the American consciousness briefly during World War II, when it hosted a large military base, and again as the setting of James A. Michener’s ‘Tales of the South Pacific.’

Beach and villa terrace at Ratua Private Island eco-lodge

HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

Nanuku A95LIKE Unfailingly warm service; the tranquil spa; the strong sense of place. DISLIKE The repeated can cellation of our waterfall hike. GOOD TO KNOW An excellent kids’ club offers activities throughout the day. VUNIKAU POOL SUITE, $1,075; VUNIKAU PENTHOUSE, $2,055 (MEALS AND NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES

INCLUDED). 11 NANUKU DRIVE, PACIFIC HARBOUR, FIJI. TEL. (679) 345-2100. NANUKU.AUBERGERESORTS.COM

Royal Davui 88LIKE The dramatic restaurant design; the extensive wine list. DISLIKE Numerous tiny ants in our bath; corroded bedside lamps and ceiling fan. GOOD TO KNOW Seas between the main island and Royal Davui can be rough. Children under 16 are not allowed. ISLAND POOL VALE, $1,020; PREMIUM POOL VALE, $1,235 (MEALS

AND NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES INCLUDED). ROYAL DAVUI ISLAND, FIJI. TEL. (679) 330-7090. ROYALDAVUIFIJI.COM

Ratua Private Island A93LIKE The stylish and exotic design; the pristine surrounding environment; the sensational snorkeling. DISLIKE The limited selection of wines by the glass; the run-down van used on an excursion to Million Dollar Point. GOOD TO KNOW Avoid the “Buffalo” house, which has little privacy, and the distant Safari Tent. Use the resort’s small private plane for seamless transfers to and from Port Vila, as well as excursions to an array of remarkable points of interest elsewhere in Vanuatu. DELUXE VILLA, $370; ONE-BEDROOM DELUXE VILLA, $580

(ALL MEALS INCLUDED). RATUA PRIVATE ISLAND, SANMA PROVINCE, VANUATU. TEL. (678) 30020. RATUA.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for information on three other recommendations in Fiji: The Wakaya Club & Spa (96), Laucala Island (96) and Yasawa Island Resort & Spa (93).

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4 HIDEAWAY REPORT NOVEMBER 2015

W E FL E W FOR T HR EE-A N D -A-H A L F HOU R S FROM VA N UAT U TO ON E OF M Y FAVOR I T E CI T IES, where man and nature have collaborated to sensational effect. I still feel a thrill every time I see Sydney Harbour, its innumerable bays and inlets punctuated by the graceful arc of the Harbour Bridge and the white curves of the Opera House.

AN URBAN OASIS AND A SE ASIDE RE TRE AT

Sydney: From The Rocks to Palm Beach

Nor does the city, founded in 1788, have a shortage of elegant historic architecture. Grand Victorian edifices such as the Strand Arcade and the Queen Victoria Building house upscale shops, while many of the 19th-century townhouses in The Rocks neighborhood now contain galleries and restaurants.

Understandably, most subscribers who contact the Travel Office request accommodations with views of the Opera House, and for them, I recommend the Park Hyatt and the Four Seasons. If the iconic outlook is inessential, however, The Langham makes an exceedingly comfortable and well-located base overlooking Darling Harbour, a 15-minute walk from Circular Quay. Formerly The Observatory Hotel, this 98-room property underwent comprehensive renovations before reopening in December 2014. The lobby-lounge now feels bright and chic, with white marble floors and cream walls accented by turquoise furniture and occasional splashes of gold and bronze. The space flows into the bar, flanked

by the Palm Court and the Kent Street Kitchen, a fine-dining restaurant. Brass chandeliers and gold-framed room dividers add dashes of 1970s glamour to the otherwise contemporary spaces.

Our large Langham Suite exhibited the same fresh design sensibility, with blue-gray carpeting, white paneled walls, pearl-gray drapes, and windows that opened to views of distant ferries and pleasure boats plying Darling Harbour. The living room furnishings, including a linen-upholstered sofa, a marble-topped deco-style coffee table and an aqua velvet armchair, were comfortable and attractive, as

were those in the separate bedroom. The limestone-tile bath, too, was lovely, with a separate shower and soaking tub, and fluffy robes and towels.

As much as we appreciated our spacious suite and the hotel’s facilities (which include a large swimming pool in the basement), the service made The Langham truly stand out. For example, on our first evening, I asked the concierge to make a reservation for high tea the following afternoon. At breakfast, the maître d’ assured us, unprompted, that our booking had been confirmed. Too few hotels foster this kind of cross-communication, which makes guests feel both cared for and important. For the rest of our stay at The Langham, I had the rare feeling that nothing could go wrong — and nothing did.

A 50-minute drive north of downtown Sydney, the coast terminates on a hilly, beach-lined

peninsula clustered with multimillion-dollar homes. The Palm Beach area was all but uninhabited when Jonah’s opened in 1928 as a roadhouse perched atop a crescent ridge. It eventually added 11 guest rooms and a small outdoor pool. Twenty years ago, I visited for lunch, arriving from Sydney’s Rose Bay via a 20-minute seaplane flight. On this occasion, curious to see how the new executive chef, Logan Campbell, was handling the restaurant, I booked a room.

Jonah’s looks unassuming from the road, but it has sensational views of the bay and Whale Beach from both of its buildings. Like all the guest rooms, ours had an ample terrace furnished with two Adirondack-style loungers overlooking the water. The simple but attractive interior came with a king-size bed, hardwood floors, a love seat and a dinette set. A switch controlled blackout shades and Venetian blinds on the floor-to-ceiling windows. The bath came with a heated limestone floor, a separate shower and a hot tub next to shutters that closed it off (or not) from the rest of the room. In some respects, however, the space could have used freshening: The floor was scratched and the couch had some light stains.

Lobby at The Langham PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

SYDNEY’S THRIVING

contemporary art scene

is notable for its talented

contingent of Aboriginal

artists. Some work in

traditional ways with

ancient iconography, and

others draw inspiration

from the larger modern art

world. These are my two

favorite galleries:

Wentworth Gallery The

newest branch of this

gallery occupies a grand

Renaissance Revival space

in Sydney’s former General

Post Office. My favorite

Aboriginal artists included

Kudditji Kngwarreye,

whose canvases glow

with Rothko-like intensity;

Gloria Petyarre, whose

bright medicine-leaf

paintings hypnotically

flow and vibrate; and Polly

Kngale, whose joyously

colorful abstract works

recall Impressionist flower

gardens. 1 MARTIN PLACE.

WENTWORTHGALLERIES.

COM.AU

Gannon House Gallery

Set in a charming

19th-century townhouse,

this rambling gallery in The

Rocks neighborhood has

a very fine collection of

large Aboriginal paintings,

including pieces by some

of the same artists shown

at Wentworth Gallery. But

it also sells contemporary

works in an array of other

media, including glass,

ceramics, metal and wood.

Incised boab seed pods

make excellent souvenirs,

and I loved Philip Bourke’s

carved burl-wood pieces.

45 ARGYLE STREET. GANNON-

HOUSEGALLERY.COM

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NOVEMBER 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5

In warm weather, a terrace off the restaurant is an irresistible spot for an aperitif; in winter, guests congregate around a fireplace in the cozy bar. The dining room, with its white chairs, white banquettes and chrome-clad pillars, has an appealing art deco aesthetic, and floor-to-ceiling windows afford glorious sea views. Chef Campbell is doing a fine job, and I relished dishes such as a carpaccio of Tasmanian salmon with capers, grapefruit and olive oil; and savory Mirrool Creek lamb with foie gras-stuffed cabbage and baby root vegetables. Wines such as a lush Pressing Matters “R69” Tasmanian Riesling and a powerful Stella Bella Tempranillo from the Margaret River Valley paired exceptionally well.

Our breakfasts were also memorable, as much for the view as the food. We had little competition for window tables during a midweek stay, and as we dined on duck-egg soufflé and açai-topped granola with almond milk, we marveled at the panorama before us. To our left, surfers slid gracefully along the breaking waves, and to our right, we spotted the spouts of humpback whales.

Our most memorable excursion was a hike in nearby Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, which encompasses a wide peninsula surrounded by tall bluffs sheltering marinas and small housing enclaves accessible only by boat. After a short and scenic ferry ride, we disembarked at The Basin, a campground dotted with quietly grazing wallabies. A steep uphill trail led into the park, passing through eucalyptus forest before leveling off on a picturesque heathland plateau speckled with wildflowers. After about 45 minutes, we reached our goal, a collection of ancient Aboriginal petroglyphs carved into an expanse of sandstone pavement. We had the enigmatic site, decorated with numerous large human and animal figures, entirely to ourselves. The outing, though at times strenuous, was an enormous pleasure, made simple by the helpful staff of Jonah’s, who drove us to and from the ferry for no charge. H

To learn more about Sydney, visit our recently updated City Guide at andrewharper.com/go/sydney-guide. And to read an account of my recent trip to Melbourne, visit andrewharper.com/go/melbourne.

HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

The Langham, Sydney A94LIKE The fresh and stylish décor; the warm and cheerful staff; the quiet but central location; the immacu-late pool and spa. DISLIKE Our scruffy unrenovated closet; imprecise climate controls. GOOD TO KNOW Between Darling Harbour and The Langham is the Barangaroo development, currently a huge construction site. Fortunately, it does not, and will not, block the water views. GRAND LANGHAM HARBOUR ROOM, $430;

LANGHAM HARBOUR SUITE, $530. 89-113 KENT STREET, SYDNEY. TEL. (61) 2-9256-2222. LANGHAMHOTELS.COM

Jonah’s A91LIKE The sensational views; the unfailingly helpful and friendly service; the excellent food and well-chosen wine list. DISLIKE The signs of wear in our room. GOOD TO KNOW Weekends fill far in advance. The area has several pleasant walks, including to the Bible Garden, which overlooks the end of the penin-sula; and steep Hordern Park, leading down to Palm Beach. Ferries to nearby Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park run regularly each day. OCEAN RETREAT ROOM, $470. 69 BYNYA ROAD, WHALE BEACH, SYDNEY. TEL. (61)

2-9974-5599. JONAHS.COM.AU

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for information on two other recommendations in Sydney: Park Hyatt (94) and Four Seasons (93).

Dining StandoutsSYDNEY HAS SOME EXCEPTIONAL RESTAURANTS, where fine local ingredients now

take center stage instead of the imported luxuries ubiquitous in the past. Asian fusion

revolutionized the Sydney dining scene 20 years ago, but on this visit, I discovered chefs

employing techniques from an array of culinary traditions to great effect.

The Bridge Room One of the best places to try Sydney’s Asian-fusion cuisine is The

Bridge Room, whose owner and chef previously served as head of food and beverage

development for Amanresorts. Inside, we enjoyed dishes such as Moreton Bay bugs (a

local crustacean) with a sweet and savory sauce of chili paste and tamarind, all topped

with shaved hearts of palm; tender and rosy ash-grilled duck breast with white carrots,

salsify ribbons and Medjool dates; and a unique dessert of a peanut butter-like quenelle

of whipped black sesame seed and white chocolate atop puffed black rice with rolls of

pressed melon. 44 BRIDGE STREET. TEL. (61) 2-9247-7000. THEBRIDGEROOM.COM.AU

Cafe Sydney With its setting on the top floor of the Customs House overlooking Circular

Quay, Cafe Sydney might be tempted to rest in the knowledge that people will come for

the view regardless of the food. But we had a thoroughly delightful lunch of light tempura-

fried zucchini flowers stuffed with salt cod accompanied by tomato confit, caper berries

and a large poached prawn; and crispy-skinned tandoori-roasted Tasmanian ocean trout

with saffron-infused cucumber, savory onion bhaji (fritters) and cool, creamy raita. FIFTH

FLOOR, CUSTOMS HOUSE, 31 ALFRED STREET, CIRCULAR QUAY. TEL. (61) 2-9251-8683. CAFESYDNEY.COM

est. One floor above the buzzing Establishment Bar, this restaurant offers diners a tran-

quil, formal atmosphere in which waitstaff in smartly tailored suits move gracefully among

white Corinthian columns. I especially liked the mud crab with crème fraîche and fragrant

piel de sapo melon topped with paper-thin radish slices; a perfectly cooked marron (cray-

fish) tail with fennel, black garlic and stem lettuce; and pink dry-aged local sirloin with

rapini, salt-baked turnip, olives and potato “crumb.” Though The Sydney Morning Herald

has demoted est. from its highest rating of three hats to two, I found little to fault. LEVEL 1,

ESTABLISHMENT, 252 GEORGE STREET. TEL. (61) 2-9240-3000. MERIVALE.COM.AU/EST

The Boathouse The most remarkable thing about this casual seafood restaurant in

Palm Beach is its setting, with a terrace built on a pier over the water. At the window, order

dishes such as beer-battered flathead with chips, or fish pie with potato and leeks, then

take a number and, with a glass of wine, wait outside at a picnic table for a cheerful waiter

to bring your food. I enjoyed a simple but flavorful plate of fresh crispy-skinned tarakihi

fish with al dente green beans. While we dined, we had a view of the beach, as well as a

shoot for the popular Australian soap opera “Home and Away.” BARRENJOEY BOATHOUSE,

GOVERNOR PHILLIP PARK. TEL. (61) 2-9974-5440. THEBOATHOUSEPB.COM.AU

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Pool terrace view at Jonah’s PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

Our lunch at Cafe Sydney

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT NOVEMBER 2015

SPACIOUS NEW ROOMS AND A SPECTACUL AR SPA

Alpine SportsTHE TERM “Sun Valley”

is often used to encom-

pass Sun Valley itself,

neighboring Ketchum

and Hailey, 12 miles to the

south, where the airport

is located. The Sun Valley

Lodge lies within the town

of Sun Valley, but the

resort’s famous ski moun-

tain, Bald Mountain, or

“Baldy” (9,150 feet), rises

above Ketchum. Baldy is

best known for its vertical

drop of 3,400 feet, tight

grooming and lack of long

lift lines. A shuttle takes

skiers to two bases: River

Run and Warm Springs,

each of which has an

attractive day lodge. River

Run features a gondola

lift, and Warm Springs

has a high-speed quad.

While Baldy gets most of

the attention, Sun Valley’s

Dollar Mountain (6,638

feet) is especially family-

friendly and well-known

for its excellent ski and

snowboard instruction.

There is also a tubing hill.

The latest draws, however,

are the terrain park, and

a new superpipe with

22-foot walls for advanced

freestyle skiing and

snowboarding. Sun Valley

is also the birthplace of

heli-skiing in the United

States, with three nearby

mountain ranges offering

some of the lightest and

deepest powder in

the country.

Despite its pedigree and special location, I have never felt comfortable recommending the lodge. Until recently, the accommodations, especially the baths, were small and outdated, and the service could be unpredictable. So when I heard of plans to gut the hotel and rebuild it, I was ambivalent. The lodge desperately needed a makeover, but how could one tear down a place with so much history — such as the room where Hemingway wrote a sizeable chunk of “For Whom the Bell Tolls”?

The resort reopened in June after a 10-month renovation. As I entered the driveway, I experienced a sense of relief. Everything looked much the same; even the swans were still there, cruising serenely across the pond. To the right, however, was a grand new spa extension with a dedicated entrance. We were greeted by a friendly doorman, eager for us to see what awaited inside.

The lobby is much lighter than before, with large windows, and doors that lead to terraces overlooking the ice skating rink. The Duchin Room (now called Duchin Lounge), formerly a dark albeit cozy bar, is now open to the lobby and has an outdoor seating area. And Gretchen’s restaurant, which used to be a casual breakfast spot, is more formal, has expanded onto a terrace and is open all day. Hallways

on either side are still lined with black-and-white celebrity photographs, many from the Golden Age of Hollywood; and ski champion memorabilia is, as before, prominently displayed in a showcase.

The front desk staff, who seemed to be predominantly European, clearly shared the doorman’s excitement about the renovations. Our Lodge King Suite proved to be extremely spacious, with windows overlooking the ice rink and a refined contemporary aesthetic. A wood wall with a see-through gas fireplace partially separated a sitting area and a spacious bedroom. A custom maple writing desk caught our eye, as did a kitchenette with mini-refrigerator, sink and Keurig machine. The large granite bath provided a dressing area, walk-in shower and soaking tub.

The most desirable rooms are the five Lodge Terrace Suites and the five Lodge Celebrity Suites — named for the resort’s founder, Averell Harriman, and regular guests Gary Cooper, Marilyn Monroe, Ernest Hemingway and skating champion Sonja Henie. These have more clearly defined separations between sitting and sleeping areas. All lodgings feature pull-out couches. The new-look lodge now has 94 rooms, down from the original 148, allowing for these vastly superior accommodations.

The Rebirth of Idaho’s Historic Sun Valley Lodge

TODAY, T HE SU N VA L L E Y R ESORT ENCOM PA SSES T WO SK I MOU N TA INS, FI V E DAY LOD GES,

a shopping village, an inn, apartments, numerous restaurants and two outstanding golf courses. But there is no doubt that its central focus is still the Sun Valley Lodge, which opened in 1936 as America’s first destination ski resort.

View of Bald Mountain from Sun Valley

Superpipe

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NOVEMBER 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7

THE SUN VALLEY AREA is known for excellent food served in a casual atmosphere. It is

also notorious for being a difficult place for restaurants to succeed because of the slack

seasons and the remote location. Those that survive tend to have a common denominator:

a hardworking, hands-on and passionate chef/owner. Here are some of my favorites.

LUNCH

Rasberrys Sisters Callie and Maeme Rasberry take inspiration from their native El Paso,

using fresh local ingredients to create distinctive and flavorful Tex-Mex combinations.

Open for lunch only. 411 BUILDING FIFTH STREET, KETCHUM. TEL. (208) 726-0606. RASBERRYS.NET

Cristina’s Restaurant Since 1993, Cristina Ceccatelli Cook has been serving food

inspired by her Tuscan childhood in a charming house on a side street of Ketchum. Perhaps

start with a parmacotto and Gruyère salad, followed by a thin-crust pizza. Save room for

desserts such as candied orange peel dipped in chocolate. Open for lunch and special

dinners. 520 SECOND STREET EAST, KETCHUM. TEL. (208) 726-4499. CRISTINASOFSUNVALLEY.COM

Sun Valley Club You can’t beat the views from the Sun Valley Resort golf clubhouse. In

summer, enjoy the mountain panorama from its wraparound terrace; in winter, cozy up

next to the large river-rock fireplace and take in the snow-covered hills and Bald Mountain’s

ski runs through floor-to-ceiling windows. The club serves lunch and small plates from 11

a.m. to 3 p.m. and offers an extensive wine list. 200 SUN VALLEY ROAD, SUN VALLEY. TEL. (208)

622-2919. SUNVALLEY.COM/DINING/SUN-VALLEY-CLUB

APRES-SKI OR DINNER

Enoteca Opened by the owners of the long-established Ketchum Grill, this has become

the fashionable place for social gatherings. Featuring small plates, wood-fired pizzas,

locally sourced lamb and trout, and an excellent wine list, it is ideal for the evening. 300

NORTH MAIN STREET, KETCHUM. TEL. (208) 928-6280. KETCHUM-ENOTECA.COM

Michel’s Christiania No visit to Sun Valley is complete without a meal at “The Christy.”

Since 1994, chef/owner Michel Rudigoz — originally from Lyon and a former U.S. women’s

Olympic ski team coach — has served traditional French cuisine in a formal dining room

with a friendly atmosphere. The Olympic Bar, decorated with ski memorabilia, is a great

spot for après-ski. The Christiania is steeped in Ketchum’s history, most famously as a

favorite hangout of Gary Cooper and Ernest Hemingway. 303 WALNUT AVENUE, KETCHUM.

TEL. (208) 726-3388. MICHELSCHRISTIANIA.COM

CK’s Real Food We have returned many times to this little house off Main Street in Hailey,

12 miles south of Ketchum. Chef-owner Chris Kastner is dedicated to Idaho suppliers, and

aims to serve “fresh healthy food that will feed your body and your soul.” We have never

had a bad meal here. 320 MAIN STREET SOUTH, HAILEY. TEL. (208) 788-1223. CKREALFOOD.COM

We headed to Gretchen’s for dinner, a bit skeptical that it could replace the traditional Sun Valley Lodge Dining Room, which was eliminated in the redesign. However, I was impressed by both my lobster Caesar and locally sourced Kobe rib eye steak with roasted forest mushrooms and potato-and-broccoli-rabe hash. And the service proved much more professional and polished than before. (Adjacent to the lodge in the Sun Valley village, you will still find the Austrian-inspired Konditorei and The Ram, a classic steakhouse.)

The next morning, we went on a tour. The famous circular heated pool is now augmented by a hot tub, a fire pit, an expanded heated deck and a poolside café. The views of Bald Mountain’s ski runs from the pool are as beautiful as ever, and it was not difficult to imagine myself relaxing in the warm water after an invigorating day on the slopes. Nearby, there is now a magnificent 20,000-square-foot spa, plus a fitness area overlooking the pool. Elsewhere, I was pleased to find that the bowling alley had not been overlooked during the renovations. The ’50s-inspired space, with six full-length lanes, features a bar area and an expanded game room.

Overall, the reinvented Sun Valley Lodge is a great success. The resort now conforms to 21st-century standards of luxury, but still retains a historic atmosphere and a feeling of glamour. H

For my favorite Sun Valley traditions, visit andrewharper.com/go/sun-valley. And for recent news from Aspen, another preferred Rocky Mountain winter resort, go to andrewharper.com/go/aspen.

Sun Valley Lodge A95LIKE The large and stylish new rooms; the spacious baths; the spectacular new spa. DISLIKE The loss of the Sun Valley Lodge Dining Room. GOOD TO KNOW Only the Sun Valley Lodge has been renovated, so do not book a room at the nearby Sun Valley Inn. LODGE KING SUITE, $440; CELEBRITY SUITE, $720. 1 SUN

VALLEY ROAD, SUN VALLEY, IDAHO. TEL. (208) 622-4111. SUNVALLEY.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on this and two other recommendations in Idaho: Henry’s Fork Lodge (94) and Shore Lodge (90).

Favorite Restaurants Sun Valley Club

Hemingway Suite

New spa and expanded pool

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Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2015 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu

ONE OF THE most remark-

able trips I have ever

taken came right at the

beginning of my profes-

sional traveling career. In

January 1981, I embarked

on a voyage aboard the

Lindblad Explorer, the

small ship that pioneered

Antarctic cruises. We left

Ushuaia at the tip of Tierra

del Fuego, sailed past Cape

Horn in an oily calm and

headed south to the distant

Antarctic Peninsula. When

I finally disembarked, I had

wandered through teeming

penguin rookeries, cruised

alongside a pod of spouting

85-foot finback whales and

watched lingering sunsets

tint cathedral-size icebergs

psychedelic shades of rose,

kingfisher and chartreuse.

The original Explorer is no

more, but a new Lindblad

ship — also called Explorer

and operated in alliance

with National Geographic

— still heads for the great

southern continent each

year. Antarctic waters are

positively crowded these

days, but the demand for

the leading vessels is such

that it is remarkably hard to

obtain cabins. For example,

the so-called “Silver Suites”

aboard Silversea’s Silver

Explorer are perennial favor-

ites of Hideaway Report

readers, but they have to

be booked at least a year in

advance. The same is true

for the Antarctic voyages

of Le Lyrial, a magnificent

new 10,700-ton ship that

has been chartered by

Abercrombie & Kent for two

exclusive cruises during the

2016-17 season. As it will be

35 years since I last set foot

on the Antarctic continent, I

think it is high time I treated

myself to a return visit.

Antarctic Cruises

The Hideaway Report enjoys a monthly audience of more than 23,000 readers. STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION. 1. Publication Title: Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report; 2. Publication Number: 0884-7622; 3. Filing Date: September, 2015; 4. Issue Frequency: Monthly; 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 12; 6. Annual Subscription Price: US$195; 7. Complete Mailing Address: 1601 Rio Grande, Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701; 8. Contact Person and Telephone: Meta Carson, (512) 904-7348; 9. Publisher’s Name and Address: Lorelei Calvert (same address as above), Editor’s Name and Address: Andrew Harper (same address as above), Managing Editor’s Name and Address: Meta Carson (same address as above); 10. Owner’s Name and Address: (1) R. Steven Hicks, 1703 W. Fifth Street, Suite 800, Austin, TX 78703 (2) Gregory S. Marchbanks, 600 Congress Avenue, Suite 200, Austin, TX 78703; 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages or Other Securities: n/a; 12. Tax Status: Has Not Changed During Preceding 12 Months; 13. Publication Title: Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report; 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2015; 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Travel Newsletter; Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total Number of Copies – 22,727/20,125, b. Paid Circulation: (1) Mailed Outside County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 – 16,612/15,003 (2) Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 – 128/0 (3) Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS® – 330/255 (4) Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS – 2,088/4,053, c. Total Paid Distribution – 19,158/19,311, d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: (1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541 – 0/0, (2) Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541 – 0/0, (3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS – 0/0, (4) Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail – 3,301/814, e. Total Free or Nominal Rate of Distribution – 3,301/814, f. Total Distribution – 22,459/20,125, g. Copies Not Distributed – 330/0, h. Total – 22,727/20,125, i. Percent Paid – 84.2/95.9.

From My NotebookAman Private Jet JourneyArguably, the most

enjoyable way to travel

through Asia is to move

from one Aman resort to

another. The company’s

refined boutique hotels

are now located in virtually

every Asian country, from

India to Indonesia. And

if there is a bad Aman

property, I have yet to

encounter it. Now, such

a tour has been made

even easier by the advent

of Aman Private Jet

Journeys. From March

6-20, 2016, 16 travelers will

fly on two Gulfstream jets,

staying at Aman properties

in Vietnam, Cambodia,

Laos, the Philippines and

Japan. Each couple will

have their own private car,

driver and guide.

The Advent of the Super SuiteHotels have long competed

to offer the most lavish

suite. In the past, this was

chiefly about bragging

rights. But priorities have

changed with the exponen-

tial growth in the numbers

of the super-wealthy.

The new five-bedroom,

12,000-square-foot pent-

house suite at The Mark

in Manhattan occupies

two entire floors; its living

room has a 26-foot ceiling;

the dining room seats

24 people; and it comes

with a 2,500-square-foot

terrace. All of this can be

yours for $75,000 a night.

Presumably, another

New York hotel will soon

announce the debut of

a suite that is even more

opulent.

Harper Collection Holiday GiftAt the time of writing, I am

completing the last two

volumes of the 2015 Harper

Collection. The most

comprehensive and reliable

guide to worldwide luxury

travel, the Collection

makes an ideal seasonal

gift. From December 1,

subscribers will be able to

purchase the boxed set for

their friends and family at a

cost of $225. To order, go to

andrewharper.com/store/

harper-collection.

L AST LOOK

Sculptures guard the pier of Ratua Private Island, Vanuatu

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

The Best Way to AustraliaIN A TURBULENT WORLD,

Australia is increasingly

attractive as a peaceful

and friendly destination.

The only downside to a trip

is the time it takes to get

there. Harper subscribers

have consistently told us

that Qantas Business class

is the best that they have

experienced. In particular,

they lavish praise on the

airline’s lounges, which offer

pre-flight fine dining with

menus from leading Sydney

restaurant Rockpool, and

the state-of-the-art fully-flat

skybeds. The number of

trans-Pacific flights is also

scheduled to increase:

From February, Qantas will

fly nonstop between San

Francisco and Sydney six

times weekly.

FROM THE TR AVEL OFFICE