nvq level 2 beauty therapy lecturer copy www ... · the equipment must be wired correctly and...

NVQ level 2 beauty therapy lecturer copy

Waxing

2010

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Waxing Contents 2 Legislation

4 Industry Codes of Practice & Hygiene 11 Professional Ethics

14 Contra-indications

17 Consultation 18 Patch testing 21 Preparation of the work area

22 Equipment & materials

23 Therapist preparation

24 Client preparation

25 The different methods of hair removal 29 Stimulation of hair growth

31 The different methods of hair waxing/sugaring 36 Preparation for waxing treatments Preparation for a facial wax 1. Ask the client to remove glasses/jewellery from area if necessary. 2. Protect the client’s clothes on the upper body with a towel. Secure the

hair away from the face with a headband. 3. The client should be in a semi-reclined position. 4. Show the client in the mirror the hairs that you intend to remove. 5. If removing hair from the sides of the face tuck any hair behind the

ears that will go behind first, as this will give a natural finished result. 6. Prepare the skin by firstly wiping over with cleanser and then pre-

wax/witch hazel. Preparation for an eyebrow wax 1. Ask the client to remove glasses/jewellery from area if necessary. 2. Protect the client’s clothes on the upper body with a towel. Secure the

hair away from the face with a headband. 3. The client should be in a semi-reclined position. 4. Prepare the skin by firstly wiping over with cleanser and then pre-

wax/witch hazel. 5. Apply petroleum jelly if necessary, to protect the eyebrows. 6. Measure the client’s brows to check if they are even and to establish

what hairs need removing. 7. Show the client in the mirror the hairs that you intend to remove.

There are 3 main guidelines which should be used to determine the correct length of the eyebrows. With an orange stick or spatula: 1. Place next to the side of the nose, in line

with the tear duct. This measurement tells you where the eyebrows should start.

2. Place from the side of the nose to the outer corner of the eye. This measurement tells you where the eyebrows should finish.

3. Ask the client to look straight ahead. Place from the corner of the nose in line with the centre of the pupil. This is where the arch of the eyebrow should be – the highest point.

1 3 2

41 Warm wax procedure

42 Hot wax procedure

43 Roller wax procedure 44 Strip wax procedure

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45 Hard sugaring procedure

48 Waxing tips

49 Contra-actions

54 Aftercare advice

58 Structure of the skin

61 Appendages of the skin

67 Types of hair growth

69 Hair & follicle structure

70 Diagram of the hair & follicle

71 Hair growth cycle

74 Factors affecting hair growth

Many factors affect the growth, quantity and structure of the hair: Hormones – the amount of hormones that surge through the body vary, particularly at times of puberty, pregnancy and menopause. Hairs that form during puberty or pregnancy will usually disappear. Age - the rate of hair growth sl ows down as we get older. In women however facial hair growth increases with age. Colour - different coloured hair grows at different speeds - a coarse bl ack hair usually grows faster then a fine blonde hai r. Stress - this makes the hairs grow faster or more numerous due to the imbalance of the hormones (mainly excess androgens from the adrenal gland). Medication - certain drugs can cause excess hair growth particularly cortisone based products. Health and diet - can affect the rate and quality of hair growth. It the

body is not receiving sufficient nutrients then it will ensure that all the vital organs get what nutrients are available. This means that the hair, skin and nai ls will not receive the nourishment that they need. Medical conditions- may affect the quality and quantity of hair growth - malfunctions associated with the ovaries or adrenal glands are the most common cause. Hereditary - members of a family may all have a similar hair growth pattern due to genetics. Part of the body - hair on different parts of the

body grows at different rates and thicknesses. Seasons - hairs will tend to grow faster in warmer weather i.e. summer than i n cold weather. Race/origin – certain races have a tendency to have more facial or body hair than others. For example a Chinese client will have very little body or facial hair, whereas an Asian client will have more face and body hai r than a Caucasian client. African-Caribbean clients do not normally have a lot of face or body hair, but the hair on their scalp is very curly and coarse.

Image of a normal hair from under a microscope

Factors Affecting The Hair Growth

Types of hair growth

S uperfluous hair—ex cess

hair that is perfectly normal

at cert ain times in a

women's life such as pu-

berty, pregnancy and meno-

pause.

Hirsuitism—a pattern of hair

growth that is abnormal

f or a person’s sex.

H ypert rchosis—excessive

hair growth that is due to a

disease or injury.

hair growth

W a x i n g P a c k a g e

WE E ACH LOSE 50-100 HAIR S PE R DAY . ONE EYEB ROW C OTA I NS APPR OXIMATE LY 100 HAIR S. AFR O-CAR IBBEA N HAI R IS PR ONE TO BREAKA G E AND INGR OWI NG HAIR S AFTE R A WAXI NG/SU GA RI NG TREA TM ENT . SCALP HA IR S KEEP GR OWI NG FOR AB OU T 7 YEAR S EYEBR OW HA IR GR OWS FOR 1 -2 MONTHS A ND THE N RE STS FOR 3-4

Did you know?

Before you carry out your waxing treatmen t you should ensure that you have prepared your work area and steri li sed all your equipment. Ensure that you wax pot is correctly prepared by check-ing the following:

There i s sufficient wax product.

It has been checked by a qualified electri-ci an in the last 12 months.

The li ght comes on to i ndicate that it is working.

It i s clean and not sticky.

All wi res and plugs are i n order.

The thermostat i s set to the correct temperature.

How to stay sticky free! 1. Don’t dip your waxing spatula too far i nto the wax pot. 2. Clean your wax pot regularly. 3. Wipe your hands immediately if they get sticky, afterwax or talc wi ll help 4. Twist your spatula to prevent the wax form dripping off onto your hand

What should I do after a waxing treatment? All the following must not be carried out for 24 hours or until redness has disappeared. Take a hot bath,

shower or heat trea t-ment

Sunbathe or take a sunbed treatment

Wear tights or tight clothing

Apply perfume prod-ucts

Bathe in any products Apply deodorant or

make-up i f appropriate Also advise the cli ent

about the following: If any in-growing hairs

occur do not pick Not to use any other

temporary methods of hai r removal in-between to ensure maximum benefit from the treatment

Waxing tips

As a therapist you should be aware of the different hair removal techniques:

Tweezing

Waxing

Sugaring

Shaving

Hair removal crea ms

Cutting

Electrical Epilation

Threa ding

Laser

hair removal

NV Q l ev e l 2 b eau t y t h e r apy

How to get the most from a waxing treatment Exfoliate with a

loofah or preferably a body scrub regularly (at least 2-3 ti mes per week).

Moisturise daily.

Return for treat-ment after 6 weeks.

If they have any problems or ques-tions do not hesi-tate to ring you.

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Clare Hargreaves-Norris Waxing 2010

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The client will need to know about the different methods available and the advantages/disadvantages of each. It is particularly important to consider the cost and time involved for each treatment plus how frequent the client would need to have treatment. It is perfectly normal for the human body to have hair, it is there to protect our body and keep us warm. Hairs in the different regions of our bodies have different functions: Scalp hair – protects the head and helps the body to retain heat. Eyelashes and eyebrows – protect the eyes against bright light and

dust particles. Underarm and pubic hair – protects the delicate skin and cushions

against friction. Body hair – protects against heat loss. In order for you to be able to advise the client about the best hair removal method, you need to have full knowledge of all the different methods of hair removal available:

Hair removal is a personal decision for each individual

and the client should be given full information about the different techniques so

that they can make an informed decision.

Waxing

Sugaring

Tweezing

Threading Shaving

Depilatory creams

Cutting

Epilators Abrasive mitts

Bleach

Electrical epilation

Laser

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Legislation That You Need To Be Aware Of As A Therapist

Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 This piece of legislation gives rights to both the employer and the employees. Employers must provide: Access to a health and safety policy. Proper safety procedures e.g. fire exits and evacuation procedure. Safe equipment that is serviced regularly. Adequate training to all staff in safety procedures. A workplace that is both safe and meets health requirements. Employees (you the therapist) must: Follow health and safety procedures that your employer provides you

with. Act to protect yourself and others, such as clients and work colleagues. Treat all equipment properly and report any faults that you notice to

your manager. The Workplace (Health, safety and Welfare) Regulations 1992 This act covers things such as toilet facilities, minimum working temperature, adequate lighting, adequate ventilation, appropriate floor covering, drinking water and staff area. In the staff area/rest room there should be adequate facilities to protect non-smokers from smokers and arrangements for pregnant women or nursing mothers. Electricity at Work Regulations Act 1992 This piece of legislation states that: You should always check any equipment before use. A qualified electrician should check all pieces of electrical equipment

in the workplace annually. Any equipment that is broken or damaged should not be used. This

includes things such as exposed wires, cracked sockets etc. Sockets should never be overloaded. The precautions that should be followed when using electrical equipment are as follows: Equipment must comply with British Safety Standard.

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The equipment must be wired correctly and checked by a qualified electrician every 12 months - a sticker would indicate this.

Electrical equipment should be placed on a solid, stable trolley. The equipment should be in easy reach of the operator to prevent over

stretching of wires. No liquids should be near the electrical equipment. Leads should not be dangling. Equipment must be cleaned regularly. Always check the equipment is working properly before use –

remember it is your responsibility to check the equipment every time. Cosmetics products (Safety) Regulations 2004 All products must be used in accordance with the Cosmetics Regulations 2004. This act requires cosmetics and toiletries to be safe in their formulation, safe for use for their intended purpose and comply with labelling requirements. Under this act is inadvisable to heat wax in a microwave due to the increased risk of burns. It is important to check that your insurance covers you in such cases. Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations (COSHH) 2002 These regulations lay down the ways in which substances that can be deemed hazardous to health, should be used, stored and disposed of. All employees should be made aware of the risks of such substances and where necessary be given further training in how to handle the substances. In order to comply with COSHH the employer should follow the procedures outlined below: Assess the risks of each substance. Decide what precautions are needed, i.e. wearing gloves. Preventing or controlling exposure to certain substances. Ensuring that control measures are used and maintained. Monitoring exposure. Ensuring employees are properly informed, trained and supervised. Detailed instructions must be kept regarding any products considered hazardous. As a therapist, you should know how to: 1. Store in the correct place. 2. Follow any precautions needed when using the substance. 3. Use the substance correctly. 4. Dispose of the substance correctly.

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Codes Of Practice For Waxing - Sterilisation And Hygiene

HABIA is the standard setting body for the hair, beauty, nails and spa industries, and creates the standards that form the basis of all qualifications including NVQs, SVQs, Apprenticeships, Diplomas and Foundation degrees, as well as industry codes of practice. Hygiene Hygiene is very important to a therapist because correct hygiene: prevents infection (for both the therapist and client) prevents offensive odours gives a professional image to the client As a therapist, no matter what we are doing, we must be aware that we have high standards to prevent cross infection and secondary infection occurring. Cross infection occurs due to certain micro-organisms (germs such as fungus, virus or bacteria) being contagious then being transferred through: a) Direct contact – for example through personal contact, touch or inhaling air-borne droplets such as coughing. b) Indirect contact – for example through tools which are not sterile or from a person to an object e.g. a person with an infection uses a towel and does not wash it, you then use the dirty towel and catch the infection. Secondary infection occurs because germs enter a cut or broken skin. For example, if the client has a small graze and you use unhygienic practices, the graze could become infected. Personal appearance of the therapist As a therapist, you are required to present a professional image at all times. In order to do this you should: Have clean teeth and avoid eating strong smelling foods and smoking. Bathe daily. Ensure you have a clean, pressed uniform daily.

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Secure your hair away from the face if it is long. If hair is shorter it should be presented in a way that does not interfere with the treatment.

Have clean, short nails that are free from enamel, so that they do not interfere with the treatment.

Cover any cuts on the hands with a waterproof plaster Wear only minimal jewellery. Only a plain wedding band or stud

earrings are allowed. (No facial piercing). Wear shoes that are clean, low heeled and fit securely around your

feet. Wear tights to protect legs/feet and to prevent offensive odours. Not attend work/college if you have an infectious disease such as

impetigo. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment when waxing. Sterilisation and sanitisation Sterilisation is the total destruction of all living micro-organisms and their spores. Sanitisation is the destruction of some, but not all micro-organisms. It inhibits their growth. Disinfect is to use a chemical that kills micro-organisms but not their spores. They keep the micro-organisms at an acceptable level. The methods used in a waxing/sugaring treatment are: Metal tools (tweezers and scissors) should be cleaned with surgical

spirit, placed in the autoclave or chemical sterilisation for 20 minutes, and then stored in the UV cabinet. When the objects are ready for use they are placed into the barbicide jar.

The area to be waxed should be wiped over with antiseptic or pre-wax. Wooden spatulas are disposed of after each client. If any spot bleeding occurs all waste is disposed of into a lined bin,

which is then placed into sharps box. This will then be collected and taken away to be incinerated (burnt).

Towels are placed into a plastic bag lined container are washed at a minimum of 60 degrees, using detergent after each client.

Therapists should wear Personal Protective Equipment (P.P.E) - disposable gloves and apron.

Always wash hands before and after each client. You should thoroughly wash your hands (it takes up to 3 minutes to thoroughly destroy all germs).

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Cover waxing spatulas, cotton buds etc. with a tissue. Headbands should either be disposable or washed after each client. Replace lids straight away on all products. Please note, for sterilisation to be effective the items must be grease free before being sterilised by washing in warm water and detergent or wiping with surgical spirit. Methods of sterilisation Autoclave -sterilises by high steam pressure (higher than boiling point) at varying times (15 minutes at 121C to 3 minutes at 134C). This is considered to be the most effective method of sterilisation – it is used for metal tools and some plastics. Chemical - sterilises by the action of chemicals - usually Cidex, Marvicide or Formaldehyde. It is suitable for metal and plastics, which need to be immersed for 20 minutes for effective sterilisation. Glass bead – small glass beads are heated to a high temperature (between 190-300C). Small metal tools can then be placed in-between the glass beads. The disadvantages are that the tools can become damaged if they are left in for too long. Take care to protect fingers when removing as items become very hot. Methods of sanitisation UV cabinet - this has disinfectant properties only and therefore does not sterilise. This is a safe environment for sterilised tools to be stored in. Surgical spirits – have disinfectant properties and are suitable for wiping over tools prior to sterilisation. It is also effective for wiping down surfaces. Sanitiser – usually in the form of an antiseptic, will destroy or prevent the growth of micro-organisms and is safe to use directly onto the skin. Barbicide – this is a chemical that will kill bacteria, however not usually the spores. It is used for storing metal tools and the plastic spatula during the treatment.

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Single use items Single use items must be disposed of after treatment and not re-used. Examples of single-use items are waxing spatulas, cotton pads, disposable underwear and paper towels. Industry views on waxing hygiene are changing, the current accepted practice is that a new spatula is used for each client (the risk of cross-infection from re-dipping a spatula into the same wax pot used for all clients is small). Many beauty therapists also use a new spatula for each new area of the body to be waxed. However, increasingly, therapists are using disposable applicator head systems. If therapists are not using these systems, the risk of cross-infection can be further reduced by using a new spatula for each dip into the wax pot, and this is becoming increasingly recommended. Blood spill If any bleeding occurs, this sometimes accidentally happens, it is vital that you understand the correct procedure to follow. Antiseptic should be applied to cotton wool and pressed onto the skin.

This should be disposed into a sharps box or yellow bin liner. If there is a large blood spill, after applying gloves, neat bleach should

be poured onto the object and left for 1 minute, then wash with lots of hot water and detergent.

Disposal of waste Each local authority has its own specific guidelines for the disposal of waste products. All waste (rubbish) must immediately be placed into a bin, which has a lid and contains a bin liner. At the end of the day/session this should then be sealed and disposed of immediately into the main bin liner. Any waste that has met body fluids should be placed into a yellow bin liner if a large item, otherwise into a yellow ‘sharps’ container. This will then be collected and incinerated (burnt) at a suitable site. Surfaces and floors Clean surfaces and floors daily with hot water and detergent and then disinfect with surgical spirit or a similar product. In a training environment, the top of the trolley should be wiped over before use every time. When you have finished your waxing treatment, you should wipe over the floor, plastic bed cover and trolley with surgical spirit to remove any sticky wax residue.

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Task Demonstrate your knowledge about hygiene and safety procedures by answering the following questions. 1. Why is hygiene important to a therapist? prevents infection (for both the therapist and client) prevents offensive odours gives a professional image to the client 2. What should you do if any bleeding occurs? Therapist must apply gloves. Antiseptic should be applied to cotton wool and pressed onto the skin.

This should be disposed into a sharps box or yellow bin liner. Separate disposable spatulas must be used. All waste should be placed in a sharps box. 3. What is considered to be the most effective method of sterilisation? Autoclave 4. What should you do to the surfaces and floors when you have completed the waxing treatment? When you have finished your waxing treatment you should wipe over the floor and trolley with surgical spirit to remove any sticky wax residue. 5. What can be used to sanitise the skin prior to treatment? Antiseptic or pre-wax 6. What is the benefit of sanitising the skin prior to treatment? Destroys or prevents the growth of micro-organisms.

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7. What hygienic practices should you follow when carrying out a waxing treatment?

Metal tools should be cleaned with surgical spirit, placed in the

autoclave or chemical sterilisation for 20 minutes, and then stored in the UV cabinet. When the objects are ready for use they are placed into the barbicide jar. For a waxing treatment this would be scissors and tweezers.

The area to be waxed should be wiped over with antiseptic or pre-wax. Wooden spatulas are disposed of after each client. If any spot bleeding occurs all waste is disposed of into a bin liner,

which is then placed into sharps box. This will then be collected and taken away to be incinerated (burnt).

Towels are boil washed using detergent after each client. Therapists should wear Personal Protective Equipment (P.P.E) -

disposable gloves and apron. Always wash hands before and after each client. You should

thoroughly wash yours hands (it takes up to 3 minutes to thoroughly destroy all germs).

Cover waxing spatulas, cotton buds etc. with a tissue. Headbands should either be disposable or boil washed after each

client. Lids should always be replaced straight away on all products. 8. What precautions should be followed when using electrical equipment? Equipment must comply with British Safety Standard. The equipment must be wired correctly and checked by a qualified

electrician every 12 months - a sticker would indicate this. Electrical equipment should be placed on a solid, stable trolley. The equipment should be in easy reach of the operator to prevent over

stretching of wires. No liquids should be near the electrical equipment. Leads should not be dangling. Equipment must be cleaned regularly. Always check the equipment is working properly before use –

remember it is your responsibility to check the equipment every time.

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Task Match the pairs

Access to a health and safety policy.

Proper safety procedures Safe equipment Adequate training to all staff A safe workplace

Health and Safety at Work Act 1974

These regulations lay down the ways in which substances that can be deemed hazardous to health, should be used, stored and disposed of. The destruction of some, but

not all micro-organisms. It inhibits their growth.

Secondary infection

Due to unhygienic practices, germs enter a cut or broken skin and it becomes infected.

Cross infection

Due to certain micro-organisms being contagious and these may then be transferred through: Direct or indirect contact

Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations (COSHH) 1992

The total destruction of all living micro-organisms and their spores.

Sanitisation

Sterilisation

UV Cabinet

Disinfectant properties only and therefore does not sterilise.

Glass bead

Used to sterilise small metal tools - small glass beads are heated to a high temperature.

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Professional Ethics

As a therapist, it is important that you follow a code of professional ethics. This is to ensure that you provide a professional treatment and do not offend anybody. Clients will wish to receive their treatment in a relaxed and professional environment. Examples of professional ethics are: Do not talk about sex, religion or politics. Do not speak badly of another colleague or salon. Do not discriminate. Only use appropriate language. Do not entice clients away from another therapist or salon. Do not keep clients waiting for a treatment. If this is unavoidable

then apologise to the client and keep them informed. Client’s details are confidential and should not be discussed with other

clients etc. Always give an honest opinion to the client when advising on

treatments and products. Give the client the opportunity to make the decision to talk through

the treatment. Some clients like to have a chat, others don’t. When treating minors (under 16) ensure that a parent or guardian is

present throughout the treatment and signs the record card to give consent for the treatment to go ahead.

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Cost Effectiveness

Minimising waste For a business to run cost effectively and make a profit, it is important that all wastage is minimal. To work cost effectively during a waxing treatment: Use the minimal amount of product to produce the desired outcome. Only use a minimal amount of waxing strips and spatulas. Split tissues, bedroll and cotton wool. Use the minimal amount of towels. Place tops back on products to work hygienically and prevent spillages. Always turn off taps and don’t run the water excessively. Store products in the correct environment - usually dark, cool, dry and

upright. Turn out lights when not in use. Remember one of the most important things to be cost effective with is with your treatment time. Timing of treatments A calculation is made for how long each treatment should take to ensure that the price charged for each treatment is correct and profitable. It is important that you complete the service within the agreed time as: it prevents time wastage within the salon clients can calculate the time required for the treatment clients are not left waiting an effective appointment system is guaranteed Pricing structure It is crucial that you have a pricing structure clearly identified for all treatments on offer. This is to ensure cost effectiveness, consistency with each treatment and to prevent confusion when calculating clients’ bills. You also need to be aware of the Trades Descriptions Acts 1987 which states what is required of the retailer under the act.

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When calculating the price to be charged for the treatment you need to consider: treatment time materials used electricity etc. used cost and maintenance of equipment price charged by competing salons percentage profit required In some salons, the experience of the therapist is taken into account when deciding what price to charge. Task Complete the correct timing and price charged in your training environment for each of the treatments below. Treatment Price Timing

Full leg wax 50 minutes

Arm wax 30 minutes

Half leg wax 30 minutes

Bikini wax 15 minutes

Underarm wax 15 minutes

Lip wax 10 minutes

Chin wax 10 minutes

Eyebrow wax 15 minutes

Face wax 30 minutes

Half leg, bikini & underarm 60 minutes

Full leg, bikini & underarm 75 minutes

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Contra-indications To Waxing Treatments What is a contra-indication? It is something that prevents or restricts the way in which the treatment is carried out. It is important that you can recognise a contra-indication so to prevent any further harm to the client or yourself, and to prevent cross-infection and secondary infection. The contra-indications that require medical referral are: Severe or infectious skin conditions – i.e. acne vulgaris, boils,

dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, impetigo, ringworm, cold sores. You should not treat as it could worsen the condition or spread the infection.

Diabetes controlled by medicine – this condition results in reduced skin healing making the client more vulnerable to infection or bruising.

Severe varicose veins - appear as blue/purple swollen, knotted and enlarged veins on the legs. The treatment may cause discomfort or even damage to the veins and for this reason; a doctor’s note must be obtained before the client can have their legs waxed.

If the client has any of the above conditions, you must recommend that the client seek medical advice and treatment before proceeding with the waxing/sugaring treatment. It is important that you do not just send the client home, as they need to receive treatment from their doctor in order to prevent the condition from worsening and to alleviate the condition. If the client is already receiving treatment then a doctor’s note is required. It is important that you do not diagnose any of these conditions as it is unprofessional and may worry or upset the client unnecessarily. If you suspect that the client has a contra-indication you should: 1. Inform the client that there is a possibility of a contra-indication and

explain that you can not carry out the treatment as it may cause harm to the client.

2. If the client wishes for the treatment to be carried out they must bring to you a doctors note.

3. Reassure the client and offer an alternative treatment that is not contra-indicated.

4. Make a note on the record card.

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The contra-indications that prevent treatment are: Thin and fragile skin – the skin could easily bruise. Recent scar tissue (6 months) – as the skin lacks elasticity it may

cause re-opening of the scar tissue or cause secondary infection. Medication such as steroids, retin A or accutane – these thin down

the epidermis making the skin more sensitive and reactive to the waxing treatment.

Sun burn – the skin is already damaged and the condition would worsen as you would be introducing extra heat and trauma to the skin.

Known allergies to waxing products or sticking plasters – client is likely to develop an allergic reaction to the treatment, carry out a patch test first.

The contra-indications that restrict the way in which the treatment can be carried out(avoid/apply petroleum jelly) are: Cuts or abrasions – to prevent discomfort to the client and reduce

the risk of any infection developing. Bruising – to prevent client discomfort and worsening the bruise. Warts – these are contagious and should be avoided Hairy moles - the treatment may stimulate cancerous cells to grow.

Firstly check the mole for any irregularities and if none are present apply petroleum jelly and work around the area.

Self tan – the treatment will remove the tanning product so ensure that you advise the client accordingly.

Heat rash – the heat from the waxing treatment will aggravate the condition further.

Ingrowing hairs – if any infection is present you will need to avoid to prevent the condition from worsening. If the client is developing many ingrown hairs in an area as a result of the waxing treatment, and they are following the correct aftercare advice, it may be preferable to recommend an alternative hair removal treatment for that area.

Skin tags – the skin tag may be removed with the wax, resulting in bleeding and discomfort.

Recent laser treatments, micro-dermabrasion or dermabrasion – the skin would be sensitised which may be worsened by the wax.

Excess surface veins – the heat and trauma to the area would not benefit this condition.

Recent cosmetic surgery – the area would be sensitive and more prone to secondary infection or irritation.

Recent piercings and tattoos - the area would be sensitive and more prone to secondary infection or irritation.

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Task Briefly explain how you would recognise the contra-indications to a waxing treatment.

Boil

A red, raised, painful lump will appear

around a hair follicle and then pus will

develop. It will extend deeply into the

skin and so therefore may cause

scarring once the boil has healed.

Psoriasis

Red patches of skin appear with scale

like waxy cells covering the area.

Bleeding will occur if the area is

scratched, removing the scales and

then secondary infection may occur.

Diabetes

You will not be able to tell by looking at

the client if they are diabetic, they will

have to inform you during the

consultation.

Varicose veins

Varicose veins appear as blue/purple

swollen, knotted and enlarged veins on

the legs.

Sunburn

The skin would appear red and warm to

the touch. If there is severe sunburn

present then blisters or peeling may

develop.

Warts

A raised growth on the skin that

usually has a rough surface and is a

grey/yellow colour.

Hairy moles

A raised lump on the skin that is usually

brown/black or skin coloured with hairs

growing from them.

Heat rash

This will appear as any area of redness

with small red lumps.

Self tan

This will appear as orange/brown

coloured skin that may be patchy.

Bruising

A patch of purple/red coloured skin.

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Consultation The first part of the consultation is greeting the client and making them feel comfortable. It is important that you welcome the client, preferably greet them by their name and introduce yourself by name before beginning the consultation. One of the most important parts of the treatment is the consultation. At this point, you will discuss the client’s needs and decide what treatment to carry out to meet those needs. In order for the client to be satisfied with the treatment you need to know what is expected. As a therapist, you must therefore be good at encouraging clients to give you this information. In order to do this you must therefore have the following: Good communication skills - these being verbal (talking) and non-verbal

(body language). Examples of good body language are good posture, eye contact, smiling, encouraging head nods.

Good questioning techniques - this is vital to gain the information that you require to carry out the treatment. Open questions begin with - How? Where? When? Why? Use open

questioning techniques wherever possible as this encourages the client to give much more information.

Closed questions begin with Do? Is? If you use these types of questions you will only get a yes or no answer which will lead to a one sided conversation.

Good observation skills – you need to be able to read your client’s body language as it will help you to understand how your client it feeling.

It is also important that you speak clearly and accurately when carrying out the treatment.

Sometimes a client may not understand what you are saying and in this situation, it is important that you adapt your consultation to meet the needs of the client. If the client does not understand always try a different approach, and if in doubt ask for help.

During the consultation, you would: Introduce yourself and exchange pleasantries. Complete the record card. Discuss the client’s requirements. *See examples of the following

questions. Suggest a treatment to meet the client’s needs.

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Explain the treatment procedure. Discuss cost, time, and frequency of treatment. You would have to explain aftercare/homecare advice. This is to

ensure that the client understands the commitment etc. required if a certain result is to be achieved and also what needs to be avoided following a waxing treatment.

Always allow the client the opportunity to question and clarify any points before signing the record card.

Anyone under 16 years of age must be accompanied by a parent/guardian who must sign the consent form.

Advise the client that they may be more sensitive to waxing treatments during menstruation.

Pregnant clients are more likely than normal to spot bleed due to the increased blood supply to the skin during pregnancy.

* Questions to ask Have you been to the salon before? Have you had a waxing treatment before? How long has it been since your last waxing treatment? Have you had a bikini wax before? What is the main reason for your visit today? (i.e. holiday) Was everything satisfactory after your last treatment? Patch test A patch test is recommended for clients who have suffered with sensitive skin previously, nervous clients and clients who have never had waxing or sugaring treatments before. Procedure to follow: 1. The patch test should be carried out 24-48 hours prior to the

treatment. At this time the consultation should be carried out and a record card completed ready for when the client returns for the treatment.

2. The patch test is carried out on the area that the client is going to have waxed.

3. A small amount of wax or sugar is applied to a pre-cleansed area and removed in the normal manner, followed by the application of afterwax.

4. Aftercare advice is then given and the client is advised when to book in for the treatment (within the next few days).

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5. The treatment can then proceed as normal providing there is no adverse reaction such as severe erythema, swelling or an allergic reaction.

Record keeping A record card should be completed for all treatments and contains confidential personal information about each client that is specific to each treatment. They should be stored on a computer or filed in alphabetical order by surname in a locked metal filing cabinet or box. This should be easily accessible to the therapist, when ready to perform a treatment and updated at every visit. This information could also be updated onto a computer system but you must be aware of your responsibilities under the Data Protection Act 1998. If record cards are not updated and do not contain a history of services and dates, you may find your insurance invalidated. Record cards should be kept for three years, as medical claims can be made up to a period of three years. If a client is under 21 years of age, it is recommended that their record card be kept until they are 21 years of age. The record card must be signed and dated to prove that you have given the correct advice, completed the required information and agreed the treatment plan with the client. Task What information should a record card contain? Personal details relevant to the service Medical information relevant to the service Client lifestyle Client requirements Condition of skin and hair Limitations to service Contra-indication checks Treatment aims and outcomes Service details, specific products used and retail sales Skin sensitivity/patch test results Aftercare and contra-actions advice Client and waxing practitioner signature and date.

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After each treatment, you should update the record card. This would be particularly useful in the following instances: You need to contact a client urgently due to a cancellation, double

booking etc. You need to check up on a particular detail of the treatment. If another therapist is to take over the treatment. Treatment plan A treatment plan is carried out to give yourself and the client a future plan to follow in order to achieve the best results possible to meet the client’s needs. Your client’s needs will mainly be discussed during the consultation however; some additional information may be gained during the treatment so additional information may be added to the treatment plan at the end of the treatment. When deciding on a treatment plan you should: Firstly, consider what to carry out i.e. what areas need waxing. What subsequent treatments the client will benefit from – the same

again or add in extra treatments. How frequently the client will need waxing – consider the speed or

growth, amount of hair growth, lifestyle and client’s wishes. Also, consider time and cost involved. Data Protection Act 1998 If a salon holds computerised records, they must register on the Data Protection register. If a salon only holds written records, this does not apply, but they must follow the principles of the Data Protection Act and comply with the following: All information must be stored securely, i.e. password-protected

computer files or only authorised access to paper records. Information must be accurate and necessary to the treatment being

performed. Individual client records must be available for clients to view if

requested.

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Preparation Of The Work Area

You should firstly sterilise all tools and then prepare your work area with the required equipment. You should prepare your work area by considering the following points: 1. Adequate ventilation or heating – open windows/doors, turn heating

on/off. If the client is very cold this sometimes causes the product to stick to the skin, making the treatment difficult.

2. Good lighting – it is recommended that you use additional light such as a magnifying light when checking to see if all the hairs have been removed.

3. Ambience – the room should smell pleasant, you may need to use aromatherapy oils or air fresheners. You should also consider the use of appropriate relaxing background music.

4. An adequate supply of freshly laundered towels will be needed to protect the client’s modesty and keep them warm during the treatment.

5. The beauty couch needs to be prepared hygienically and needs to be protected from the wax or sugar. The couch should firstly be prepared with protective plastic sheet. This should be wiped over with surgical spirit or disinfectant before and after every client. Finally, place bedroll over the plastic cover.

6. A supply of bedroll, cotton wool and tissues are available. 7. All products are available. 8. Record card and pen should be placed on the bottom shelf of your

trolley. You may need to check details of client’s previous treatments.

It is important that before beginning any treatment you are fully prepared. This is vital to:

Provide a good impression to the

client.

Prevent time wastage; therefore

the treatment will be cost effective.

Ensure that the treatment runs

smoothly preventing you running behind

for subsequent treatments.

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Equipment And Materials Required Equipment required to carry out a hair removal treatment Thermostatically controlled wax

or sugaring pot containing appropriate product

After wax/sugar lotion Barbicide jar Tweezers Scissors Tissues Cotton wool Cotton buds Petroleum jelly Disposable gloves Disposable apron Record card and pen Small plastic bowls

Pre-wax, antiseptic or witch hazel - to pre cleanse the clients skin

Cleanser – for facial areas Surgical spirit or equipment

cleaner- to wipe down equipment Wooden spatulas Orange sticks or narrow

spatulas for treatment of facial areas

Muslin or paper strips – you may need to cut to size depending on the area being treated

Mirror Lined waste bin with lid

When preparing your equipment you must always check that your wax/sugar heater is working correctly. You should also check that no liquids are placed near to the wax/sugar heater for safety reasons. You may also want to consider where you place your trolley or couch for ease of application.

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Therapist Preparation

Firstly, a therapist should always be prepared in line with the Industry codes of Practice as discussed previously. It is the therapist’s responsibility to correctly prepare themselves and their work area in time for the treatment. The therapist should always double check the appointment book to make sure they are aware of exactly what treatment the client is having and that no changes have been made. Once the consultation has been carried out, the therapist should leave the client to prepare and then explain to the client that they are going to wash their hands. This will reassure the client, as sometimes even though you have washed your hands they will not have seen you do it. At this point, the therapist should apply personal protective equipment. A plastic apron should be worn for all waxing/sugaring treatments to protect the therapist’s uniform against any wax spillages, drips etc. A new pair of disposable gloves should be put on immediately before each waxing service This is to prevent the client and therapist against the risk of any cross infection through the blood tissues. Assess the area Before starting the treatment, it is important that the therapist assess the area to be waxed in order to decide on the: Skin condition – very dry skin causes the wax to stick. Hair length – are the hairs long enough to remove or too long and

therefore need trimming. Hair growth pattern – so you know the correct direction to apply and

remove. Suitable product to use – if you have a choice you can select the best

method for the hair growth. Hairs that need removing – you will normally only remove terminal hairs

and avoid fine vellus hairs so as to minimise the risk of stimulating further growth.

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Client Preparation

Explain how the treatment will feel to the client The client will also need preparing for the treatment mentally so that they know what to expect. If the client has not received the treatment before the most common question they will ask is “Will it hurt?” Explain the sensations that the client will feel: 1. The wax/sugar will feel quite warm when it is applied. 2. You will then feel a pressure as I apply the wax/sugar strip. 3. I will then remove the strip and this will feel similar to a plaster being

removed. 4. The area will tingle for a few seconds. Client modesty and privacy Client modesty and privacy must be taken into account by considering the following so as to prevent embarrassment: Ensure the door is closed or curtains are pulled around. Client has adequate towels. You give clear instruction on how the client should prepare and leave

the client to prepare himself or herself in private. Do not talk loudly so that others can hear. When working in a training environment you may re-position the

treatment couch for a bikini wax so that the client is facing the wall.

The client will need to be prepared in different ways depending on the area being treated. It is very

important that when carrying out the treatment the client is positioned correctly, so to:

Prevent strain on the client’s body

causing discomfort or injury.

Allow the client to relax.

Prevent strain on the

therapist, which could cause injury, time wastage.

Prevent an ineffective hair removal treatment.

Prevent contra-

actions, such as bruising or skin removal,

occurring.

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The Different Methods Of Hair Removal

There are many different methods of hair removal available on the market today. In order for you to be able to correctly advise your clients about the best treatment for them, you need to have a thorough understanding about all hair removal methods.

Waxing and sugaring These products are designed to remove hairs at root level working against the direction of hair growth. They come in different formulations, each of which has their own specific benefits. Waxing/sugaring treatments are very effective at removing large areas of hair growth and are suitable for using on most areas of the body. Clients will be hair free for approximately 2-4 weeks and will be ready for removal again in 6 weeks time once the hairs have re-grown to the required length. Shaving This is still one of the most popular methods of hair removal as it’s quick, easy and cheap for the client to do themselves at home. Shaving cuts the hair off at skin level therefore the hairs will not be visible for the next few days. This treatment is not recommended on facial areas for female clients.

Waxing Sugaring Tweezing Threading

Shaving Depilatory creams Cutting Epilators

Abrasive mitts Bleach Electrical

epilation Laser

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Depilatory creams Depilatory creams use a chemical to dissolve the keratin in the hairs to just below skin level and, as with shaving; the hairs will be visible within a few days. These products often have an offensive odour, which has been improved slightly over recent years. Common ingredients are calcium thioglycolate, calcium carbonate, calcium hydroxide, sodium lauryl sulphate, water and perfumes. It is worth noting that the skin has a very similar composition to hair and therefore it is also affected by the chemical action of the cream. For this reason, these products can often cause an allergic reaction or sensitivity of the skin. Long-term use can cause the skin the dry out and be more sensitive to other methods of hair removal, for example waxing. Depilatory creams are not recommended on facial areas. Tweezing Tweezing is one of the most popular methods of hair removal for the eyebrows. Tweezing removes the hair at root level therefore; the hairs will not be visible again for 2-4 weeks. The hairs that first become visible will not be the hairs removed but additional hairs that were underneath the skin when the area was tweezed. Tweezing is not recommended on facial areas except for the eyebrows or on large areas due to the fact that it would be very time consuming. You should never tweeze hairs that are not terminal - this is because tweezing can stimulate hair growth, resulting in darker, coarser and more numerous hairs. Threading Threading is an ancient form of hair removal often used by Mediterranean and Asian communities. A piece of cotton is wrapped around the fingers it is then twisted and rolled over the skin. Hairs that are caught in the thread are removed at root level; therefore the hairs will not be visible again for 2-4 weeks. Threading is not recommended on facial areas except for the eyebrows or on large areas due to the fact that it would be very time consuming. You should never thread hairs that are not terminal - this is because threading can stimulate hair growth. Cutting Scissors can be used to trim the hairs to just above skin level. This is particularly useful for hairs growing from moles as no other method can be used. Hairs will obviously still be present but less obvious. The procedure will need to be repeated regularly and is not recommended for

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large areas. Cutting is also useful to trim hairs prior to waxing/sugaring treatments. Abrasives These are available in the form of pumice stones and abrasive mitts. They are rubbed over the skin using a circular motion until the hair is broken off, level with the skin’s surface. This method is really only useful on the legs, as other areas would be too sensitive and skin is often removed in the process. Not recommend for use on facial areas. Epilators These small, hand held machines electrically tweeze hairs from root level. Hairs will re-grow as with tweezing. It can be quite painful and a time-consuming procedure. They can not be used on hairs longer than a centimetre. Epilators are only suitable for use on the leg area, although some people use them on the underarms and bikini line. They should never be used on facial areas. Bleaching This is an effective way of lightening unwanted hairs by stripping them of colour. It is suitable for use on facial hairs and the forearms however would be too costly and time consuming for use on larger areas. It is not recommended for use on very dark, terminal hairs as the colour does not lift sufficiently and hairs will appear ginger. The bleach grows out with the hair and so re-application will depend on the length of hair and speed of growth, generally 4-6 week intervals. Patch testing must be carried out prior to treatment to check that the client is not allergic to the bleach. Common ingredients include hydrogen peroxide, ammonium bicarbonate, water and glycerol stearate. Electrical epilation Not to be confused with epilators. Electrical epilation is the only progressively permanent methods of hair removal available in the salon (laser hair removal is becoming increasingly available). There are various techniques which are used to cut off the blood supply to the hair therefore making it re-grow finer and slower until eventually the hair stops growing. This treatment is quite painful and also time consuming, as only one hair can be treated at once. Electrical epilation is recommended for smaller areas, particularly on the face.

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Laser

Laser hair removal is a non-invasive method, which does not require needles or messy chemical creams. Since thousands of hairs can be zapped in a single treatment session, large areas like the back, shoulders, arms and legs can be effectively and efficiently treated.

This method works because the laser light is converted into heat as it passes through the skin and is absorbed in the target pigment melanin found in the hair follicle. When the temperature reaches a high enough level in a hair follicle during its active phase, the hair structures are disabled, thus inhibiting hair re-growth.

Although permanent hair removal is the aim of the treatment, some patients may experience hair re-growth that is usually finer and lighter in colour. In addition, long-lasting laser hair removal typically requires multiple treatments, which can make it a more costly hair removal alternative. Possible side effects, though very rare, may include damage to the surrounding healthy tissue in the form of scars, burns, redness and swelling. Special considerations are important when lasers are used on darker skin tones to allow for safe and effective treatment.

Stimulation of hair growth Certain treatments can stimulate the hairs to grow coarser or darker and more numerous. This is because they cause stimulation of the blood supply to the area bringing fresh oxygen and nutrients and therefore encouraging the hairs to grow. This does not just happen to that one hair but also to the hairs in the surrounding area. To prevent this from occurring only terminal hairs should be treated with the following methods as these hairs are already very coarse and numerous. Shaving Chemical depilatory creams Tweezing Threading Epilators Abrasives There are various schools of thought regarding the effects of waxing/sugaring treatments on hair growth. Some individuals believe that hairs will re-grow finer and sparser; others believe that the hairs are stimulated to grow coarser. Generally, it would be fair to say that, terminal hairs cannot be stimulated to grow any coarser, and are

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therefore suitable for waxing/sugaring treatments. You may be more wary of waxing/sugaring very fine vellus hairs. If you are unsure whether a client’s hair growth should receive a waxing or sugaring treatment, (particularly on facial areas) it is better to recommend one of the following treatments instead: Electrical epilation Bleaching Cutting Task Demonstrate your knowledge of all the different methods of hair removal by completing the chart on the next page.

Note Please be aware that using other methods in-

between waxing/sugaring treatments will reduce the effectiveness of the treatment and

interrupt the growth cycle.

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Method of Hair Removal

How it Works Cost of Treatment Recommended Areas of Use

Problems Arising Carried Out

Waxing Removes hair at root level

£3-35 for one area depending on area

All terminal hairs Ingrowing hairs, burning, bruising

Therapist

Sugaring Removes hair at root level


All terminal hairs Ingrowing hairs, burning, bruising

Therapist

Bleaching Lightens colour of hair


Any hairs required lighter

Allergic reaction Therapist Client at home

Cutting Removes hair at skin level

£3 for a pair of scissors

Small areas and moles

Cutting skin Client at home

Tweezing Removes hair at root level

£5-20 for a pair of tweezers

Small areas and eyebrows

Nipping skin Therapist

Threading Removes hair at root level

Minimal £3-15 Small areas and eyebrows

Asian custom Some therapists

Chemical Depilatories

Removes hair at skin level

£5-10 for product All terminal hairs body only

Allergic reaction Client at home

Epilators Removes hair at root level

£30-40 for epilator All terminal hairs body only

Ingrowing hairs, nipping skin

Client at home

Electrical Epilation

Removes hair at root level by cutting off blood supply

Approximately £8-20 for 15 minutes of treatment

Hairs requiring permanent removal – facial areas

Sensitive skin, erythema

Therapist

Shaving Removes hair at skin level

£1-30 depending on type of razor/shaver

All terminal hairs body only

Cutting the skin Client at home

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The Different Types Of Wax And Sugar Products

There are different types of waxing/sugaring products that you can select from; all are designed to remove hairs at root level working against the direction of hair growth:

Task Complete the benefits of each product Warm wax Warm wax comes in many different formulations; some examples of common ingredients are zinc oxide, glucose syrup, beeswax, moisturising ingredients, paraffin wax and resins. Sometimes antiseptic ingredients such as tea tree oil are added to the wax. This is the most popular type of wax because it is easy to use and economical. Warm wax is heated to 40-43C, so there is little risk of skin burning and can therefore be applied once or even twice on less sensitive areas. The wax does not set; it remains soft at body temperature and is removed by applying a paper or muslin strip over the top. The benefits of warm wax are: Treatment is quick and easy to prepare for. The warm wax produces a milder skin reaction than hot wax. Warm wax is more comfortable when treating facial areas due to its

lower working temperature. Warm wax is speedier to apply and remove than hot wax and hand

sugar, it is therefore preferable when treating larger areas. Wax can be re-applied to less sensitive areas. It can remove short hairs even 2.5 mm although 5mm-1cm is

preferred.

Warm wax

Hot wax

Cold wax

Roller wax or disposable systems

Strip sugar

Hand sugar

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