ocean explorer ozracer sailboat boat plan for living inside

Ocean Explorer

Fat Ducks cruiser

Building the HullConcept and Hull Design - Perttu Korhonen

Foils, Spars and Sail - Storer Boat Plans

Table of contents

Licence 3

About plans 4

Views 6

Material list – metric 8

Material list –imperial 9

4mm ply layouts 10

6mm ply layouts 11

Side panel 12

Side panel framing 13

Laminate chine logs 14

Bow 15

Cabin bulkheads ply 16

Cabin bulkhead framing 17

Transom 18

Hull assembly 19

Centercase 20

Mast step 21

Mast step assembly 22

Rafter 23

Rafter and cockpit front ply assembly 24

Cockpit lockers front sides 25

Cockpit sides 26

Cockpit framing 27

Cockpit top and ceiling 28

Hatch rails 29

Hatch ( alternative 1 ) 30

Hatch ( alternative 2 ) curved top 31

Hatch assembly 32

Rudderbox and tiller 33

Finishing and Rigging 34

Double deckblock 35

Oar sockets extenders 35

Boom tent 36

Curtains 37

Trailer trolley 38

Converting millimetres to inches 39

Photos 40

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LICENCE

Purchasing these plans gives you license to build one complete boat.

Using these plans means that you have agreed to the conditions below.

The plans are and remain our property – but you have this licence to use them to build a boat for

personal use. If you damage your boat, that it can´t be repaired, you can build another boat as

replacement.

If your friends and even strangers get excited about having a boat like yours we would really,

really like it if you would direct them to download the plans for themselves for the low plan

price.

3

ABOUT PLANS

After I build the boat shown in photos, I received emails, if could I make plans of it. I had earlier

built Michael Storer´s Oz Racer and this boat uses its spars, sails and foils. I thought, that I

can´t make plans of boat, which uses parts I haven´t design. I contacted Michael and he was

kind in willing me to produce plans together. Thanks to Michael, who helped me simplify boats

structure and willing me play as boat designer.

( Some drawings, text and photos of this section are made by Michael Storer )

I tried to make these plans as good I can and I hope you can get some value for your money.

Drawing these plans has been fun, but big project. Many beautiful sailing days was ignored. I

had to buy 3d design program and maybe will ever got enough money to cover its price? My

goal was not get rich with these plans. It would be fun to see people building boats and do

sailing- and exploring trips around world waters. So build, sail and explore!

If you have built the sprit rig version of Oz Racer, you can´t use that rig on this boat. Cabin roof

is too high from mast base, but Michael´s free lug rig supplement works fine – contact him.

Build and use this boat with your own risk. I have sailed it in stiff breezes and through waves

affected by ships and it have survived without any damage. It is anyhow very small home build

boat and could be damaged by faulty gluing or material failure. Make sure you are aware of

proper and safe use of all materials – read manufacturer’s directions.

Dimension shoved in plans are exact dimensions. When you proceed on building, there are going

to be little difference between your boat and dimension given in plans. Always check dimensions

on your boat before cutting parts too small.

When stainless screws are mentioned in plans, it means that they are meant to be left on place.

Countersink those screws and fill with epoxy putty. Always drill pivot holes for screws.

Temporary screws are drywall or plasterboard screws and meant to be used as clamps, to reach

steady pressure during gluing. To reach strong and watertight seams, glue should ooze little

along entire seam length. Fill screw holes with epoxy putty.

Plywood layouts are made so, that parts will be aligned correctly with grains direction.

1220mm ( 4´) should be top veneers grain direction.

Information on using epoxy and saving labour read the appendices!

( in end of Ocean Explorer OzRacer sail foils spars.pdf )

Boat is meant to be sailed hatch shut and locked. If she is capsized, you should have enough time

to turn the boat upright again before cabin fills with water. The design´s name is Ocean explorer,

but remember, that it is very small boat and meant to be sailed in sheltered waters. It´s best

suited for one person and one kid. Cockpit is small for two adults , but short trips can be made

with right attitude. My longest trip with it is three days and two nights slept inside cabin. I am

quite happy about the design.

Start off using the boat with a great deal of care in safe waters and as you start to understand

what the boat will and won’t do extend the range of what you decide to do. At all times carry

safety gear including lifejackets as recommended by your local safety authorities, learn their

proper use and maintain them correctly. Practice recovery from capsize at a time of light winds

which will blow you towards the shore so that you will know what to do if the boat capsizes.

4

When the boat are being used by children they should be under supervision and not be allowed to

move further away than you can rescue them. As they learn to rescue themselves then allow

them more freedom.

Ocean Explorer is inspired by Pdracers and Oz Racer, but it is not Pdracer. Name “Fat duck”

cruiser means, that it should be able to carry little more gear until transom reach waterline. Some

skippers may need extra pillow under aching back. ( while resting in cabin and waiting his/her

turn on helm - on storming and rainy oceans… )

Pdracer ( Puddle Duck Racer ) is trademark owned by David “Shorty” Routh.

Shorty’s homepage for Pdracers can be found : http://www.pdracer.com/

Oz Racer homepage is : www.pdracer.info/

Michael Storer´s homepage for boat plans and great boating information is:

http://www.storerboatplans.com/

Michael Storer Boat Design Building and Repair - FAQ

http://www.storerboatplans.com/Faq/faqindex.html

Woodwork Forums - Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/

Plans, hardware and great stories can be found in:

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/

I have added couple very short sailing videos :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0IIDQ8yC9o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmP2S_eWE9w

Send photos of your build and sailing adventures!

[email protected]

Have fun

5

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7

Material list - metric

List is made according standart lumber sizes founded where I live. Standarts can vary between countries. If lumber size shoved on list cant be found in your local store, it has to be cut from another size of lumber.

PLYWOOD – READ BEFORE BUYING PLY

Plywood sheets are all 8ft x 4ft (2440 x 1220mm). DO NOT USE METRIC SHEETS (2400 X 1200)

We strongly recommend that the 6mm (¼”) ply is 5-ply (has 5 layers). 3 ply is unlikely to be strong

enough for the bottom of the boat.

Plywood ( 1220 X 2440 )

Thickness Number Species

4mm 3 Exterior or Marine

6mm 2 Exterior or Marine

Lumber

Pine can be Hoop Pine, white pine or other mostly knot free straight grained pine with good gluing properties -

No loose or large knots. Douglas Fir or spruce, select dry stock. Fine grain, no knots. Hemfir, Western Red Cedar, Paulownia.

Size Part Length Number Species

( 19mm lumber - could also be 18 or 20mm )

10 X 19 chine log laminations 2500 4 pine

15 X 19 cockpit side stringers 2800 1 pine, spruce

round hatch rails 1500 1 pine, spruce

15 X 28 hatch ( alt. 1 ) top mouldings 1200 1 pine, spruce

(could be sawn from 28X45) rudderbox bottom stiffeners 600 1 pine, spruce

15 X 45 hatch ( alt. 1 ) back frame 600 1 pine, spruce

rudderbox top stiffeners 600 1 pine, spruce

19 X 19 framing - bulkheads, lockers side panel shorts 3000 5 pine, spruce

hatch ( alt. 1 ) rails and front moulding 2000 1 pine, spruce

curved hatch ( alt. 2 ) - middle batten 700 1 pine, spruce

( one extra peace could be good idea )

19 X 45 framing for sidepanels, bulkheads, centercase cleats,

mast partners and vertical hatch rails 3000 5 pine, spruce

( one extra batten could be good idea )

19 X 70 mast step back support ( sawn to 19 X 64mm ),

side panels oarlocks supports, bulkheads 2000 1 pine, spruce

19 X 90 bulkheads top stringers ( curved ) 2100 1 pine, spruce

28 X 28 centercase and runnerdbox spacers ( sawn to 28 X 25mm ) 1300 1 pine

hatch rails 2600 1 pine

blanks for bottom framing 2300 1 pine

28 X 45 curved hatch ( alt. 2 ) - frames 1000 1 pine

45 X 45 tiller 650 1 pine

Foil lumber

25 ( sawn ) X 30+ Foil staves 2100 7 pine

Spar Lumber (mast, yard, boom) Douglas Fir, other pine or spruce, select dry stock. Fine grainno knots.

Other pine species can be good. Need a fine grain and no significant knots. The required length can be

made up by joining timber using a 6 to 1 scarf join – see spar building section for details.

62*12 mast wide staves 3900 2 pine

38*12 mast narrow staves 3900 2 pine

38*38 internal blocking for mast 1500 1 pine

42*42 boom 3400 1 pine

38*38 yard 3250 1 pine

Other materials :

Glass tape 50mm wide - 10 meters ( ca. 160g/m2 )

Epoxy - ca. 8 kg + gluing powder (if coating) 3kg (if only gluing)

8

Material list – Imperial

List is made according standart lumber sizes founded where I live. Standarts can vary between countries.

If lumber size shoved on list cant be found in your local store, it has to be cut from another size of lumber

Specially 28mm ( 1 1/8 ) lumber is not standart size in imperial standarts - my apology for that.

Parts made from that size of lumber are quite short ones and could be sawn from bigger size of lumber.

PLYWOOD – READ BEFORE BUYING PLY

Plywood sheets are all 8ft x 4ft (2440 x 1220mm). DO NOT USE METRIC SHEETS (2400 X 1200)

We strongly recommend that the 6mm (¼”) ply is 5-ply (has 5 layers). 3 ply is unlikely to be strong

enough for the bottom of the boat.

Plywood ( 8ft x 4ft )

Thickness Number Species

3/16” 3 Exterior or Marine

1/4” 2 Exterior or Marine

Lumber

Pine can be Hoop Pine, white pine or other mostly knot free straight grained pine with good gluing properties -

No loose or large knots. Douglas Fir or spruce, select dry stock. Fine grain, no knots. Hemfir, Western Red Cedar, Paulownia.

Size Part Length Number Species

5/8 X 3/4 chine log laminations 8 4 pine

cockpit side stringers 9 1 pine, spruce

round hatch rails 5 1 pine, spruce

5/8 X 1 1/8 hatch ( alt. 1 ) top mouldings 4 1 pine, spruce

rudderbox bottom stiffeners 2 1 pine, spruce

5/8 X 1 3/4 hatch ( alt. 1 ) back frame 2 1 pine, spruce

rudderbox top stiffeners 2 1 pine, spruce

3/4 X 3/4 framing - bulkheads, lockers side panel shorts 10 5 pine, spruce

hatch ( alt. 1 ) rails and front moulding 7 1 pine, spruce

curved hatch ( alt. 2 ) - middle batten 2,5 1 pine, spruce


3/4 X 1 3/4 framing for sidepanels, bulkheads, centercase cleats,

mast partners and vertical hatch rails 10 5 pine, spruce


3/4 X 2 ¾ mast step back support ( sawn to 3/4 X 64mm ),

side panels oarlocks supports, bulkheads 7 1 pine, spruce

3/4 X 3 ¾ bulkheads top stringers ( curved ) 7 1 pine, spruce

1 1/8 X 1 1/8 centercase and runnerdbox spacers ( sawn to 1 1/8 X 1 ) 5 1 pine

hatch rails 10 1 pine

blanks for bottom framing 8 1 pine

1 1/8 X 1 3/4 curved hatch ( alt. 2 ) - frames 4 1 pine

1 3/4 X 1 3/4 tiller 3 1 pine

Foil lumber

1 ( sawn ) X 1 1/4+ Foil staves 7 7 pine

Spar Lumber (mast, yard, boom) Douglas Fir, other pine or spruce, select dry stock. Fine grainno knots.

Other pine species can be good. Need a fine grain and no significant knots. The required length can be

made up by joining timber using a 6 to 1 scarf join – see spar building section for details.

2 1/2 * 1/2 mast wide staves 13 2 pine

1 1/2 * 1/2 mast narrow staves 13 2 pine

1 1/2 * 1 1/2 internal blocking for mast 5 1 pine

1 5/8 * 1 5/8 boom 12 1 pine

1 1/2 * 1 1/2 yard 12 1 pine

Other materials :

Glass tape 50mm ( 2” ) wide - 32ft ( ca. 6oz approx )

Epoxy - ca. 16lb + gluing powder (if coating) 6lb (if only gluing)

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Laminate chine logs

The curvature along the bottom edge of the side panel is quite extreme. The chinelog is laminated

to the required curve out of two layers of timber (19 x 10mm – ¾ x 3/8”) to make up a 19 x 19mm

curved chinelog.

Lay the side panel on a flat surface. Mark the

curve of the bottom edge of the side panel onto the

flat surface.

Put brown plastic packaging tape over the tabletop

or workbench which the chinelog will contact so it

does not end up being glued to the surface

permanently.

Drive some long plasterboard screws in along the

line – diagram above and left side of photo

NB - A good general rule for gluing is to do a dry

run to make sure that everything will hold in place

with the available clamps. It is bad news to get

the glue on and then find the clamping method is

inadequate.

Put thickened glue (about peanut butter consistency) on the wide face of two of the chine log

laminations, spread and put the other two chinelog lams onto the glued surface. Use the spring

clamps to clamp to the plasterboard screws (pic above). Put brown packaging tape along it to

prevent the second chine log from bonding accidentally. Clamp the second chine log to the first.

ALWAYS CLEAN UP EXCESS GLUE ABOUT 20 MINUTES AFTER GLUING.

When glue is cured remove chine logs remove any excess glue by power sanding.

14

458452

10 ˚

70

70

348 452352

10 ˚

19

14 ( ply edge on another side )

44

Framing 19mm

middle stringer

6mm ply

6mm ply

Top edge is planed to 22 degrees.( 9mm below top edge )

270

100

70

303303

160

300

85 48

1212

405

507 540 507

303303

ply

22 ˚

9

540 ply

14

37 ˚

554

419

44

side view

10 ˚

50

615

36

19

25

10 ˚

draw curve according ply edge

Top stringer

Start with 19*90*670 lumber.Cut 10 degree angle to center joint and place it above stringers. Draw top curve according ply edge.Last draw smooth curve below top curve.

BOW

(Fd)

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1212

26

19viewed from cockpit

Top stringer is made from 682*90*19 lumber.Draw shape according ply edge.

45*45 support for nylon fairlead( see page 34 )37

45

45194

22 ˚

149

265

19*19

11 ˚

19

26

149

130164

11 ˚284

90

19

viewed from bow

19

45

19

682

1790

23

90 ˚

4

46

viewed from bow

Cabin bulkhead framing19mm wide

17

244 ply

19

45

45

161

19 ˚

7

251

side view

274

16

19

45

70 19 19161

275275

19

1212

45

161

7 ply edge ( on another side )

in middle

notch in top stringer

TRANSOM

(Fd)

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343

45

45

cleats 19*45*343

Centercase

343

19

1919

412411

413

match to bottom curve

side ply 6mm bow

2828

287

centercase spacers25mm wide

19*19*1212

19*19*549

19*19*549

19*19*549

19*19*549

Centercase should fit between bottom and cabin bulkhead. If there is too much play, adjust the height of center case.Draw line across bottom ply from marks on side panels ( 1257 from stern ). Center case front edge aligns on that line. Draw also lines to centerof bottom and center of center case. Fasten centercase with screws through bottom and top of cabin bulkheads stringer.( some of screws driven through bottom could be stainless and leaved there to secure the joint if epoxy is not being used ) Clamp cabin bulkhead ply tight against centercase. Last glue bottom stringers and top back stringer (1212mm) to boat. ( I usually make rudder box in same sequence with centercase, so epoxy coating or painting could be done at the same time. )

(Fd2)

20

64

484

22 ˚

149

213

151

215

544

100

viewed from side

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spacer 19*45*58

reinforced with 6mm ply

19

64

64

484

19

viewed from top

Mast step19*45 lumber

8mm bolt

(Fd)

top mast partner

lower mast partner

2 ˚

1

19

544

45

13 ˚4

back supportside view back view

64

58

3

544

45

57

170

27

11

17

35

13 ˚

37 ˚

45

19

13 ˚82

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ca.420

ca.535

19*28*1174

28*28*535

Mast step assembly Fasten mast step assembly with temporary screws through bottom.Use stainless srews throught bow to all four mast partners.Reinforcement ply could be glued only with clamps.

(Fd)

28

28

13 ˚

21

28

19

200

80

28

64

reinforcement ply 6mm

22

21

526

28

50

12

viewed from cockpit

6mm ply

6mm ply overlaps frame by 12mm and works as hatch stopper / water seal.

bow

6mm ply

6mm ply

exploded view�

6mm plyto both sides

Frame - 3 lamination of 6mm ply.( or one peace of 18mm ply )Glue on a flat surface.

bow

1174

152

35

587

294

45

102

536

9

1249825

294

frame - 3 lamination of 6mm ply

Rafter

23

ca. 340

674

cockpit front plyviewed from bow

viewed from side

19*19*674

Plane carefully mast step top edges to match shape of rafter and bow.

Rafter distance (measured from frame) to cabin bulkhead framing should be ca. 674mm. Screw stainless screws through rafter to mast step and through side panels to rafter.Screv these screws slowly, if rafter starts to split apply glue to crack and pres it together with clamp.Fasten one 19*19*674 batten between rafter and cockpit bulkhead with stainless screws.

Rafter and cockpit front ply assembly

(Fd)

284

41237419 19

19

19

4mm ply

19*19�

374412

24

Locker ply position is front ofside panels locker stringer.

(Fd2)

259

279

275

19

25

viewed from back

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viewed from top

319

294

45

19

19

15

19

21

ply 4mm

19

14 ˚

319279

19

19

5

side view

stringer length 286

275

19

7 ˚

2

bottom stringer - viewed from top

259

19

7 ˚

top stringer - viewed from top

19

19

17

7 ˚

Cockpit locker front sides

25

936 top stringer

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exploded view

front stringer

side 4mm ply

top stringer 15*19

936

411

244

45

318

252 205

393

39836545

19

477

notches�

ply 4mm

top stringer 15*19

locker plys back face postioinfron stringer - both ends strait

Use deck plates as locker covers. Make hole according your deck plate

50

clambing support lumber ca.1100

viewed from top

Glue top stringer to sideply. Use ca.50mm piece of timberbetween ply and clamping support. Place clamps in middle and on both ends . Then use so many clampsyou can fit to gluing assembly.

gluing assembly

19

12

15

936 top stringer

24 ˚

90 ˚ front stringer( under top stringer )

If possible, make cardboard template from cockpit side ply and check that it fits smoothly to your boat.

Cockpit sides

(Fd2)

26

ca.655

ca.305

265

160

230

bottom ply

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55

19*19*3

05

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epoxy fillet

Cockpit sides position from middle line shoul be ca. 230mm( middle of oarlock support - on sidepanel )

Make epoxy fillet to both sides of cockpit side ply joint with bottom ply.

cockpit side

Place cockpit side assebly on notch of transoms top edge. Glue it to transom, locker and cockpit front plys stringer. If sipeplys bottom edge won´t take nice curved shape- fasten it with temporary battens of 45*45mm wood - same way as described below.

It could be wise to paint interior at this stage.Paint also bows outside face around windows and fitwindows by bolting them through ply. Use washers onboth sides and apply clear window sealant to joint.Side windows can be installed later, by screwing them to framing.

If you don´t make lockers, fasten temporary batten ( 45*45) on bottom with screws. Screw cockpit sideply to that batten to achieve nice curved shape. Apply next epoxy fillet. After epoxy has cured remove batten andfill screw holes with thickened epoxy. Or make another stringer also on sideplys bottom edge. Glue it similar as top stringer. Cut it from 19*90 lumber and pre shape its top edge to match bottom curve.Fasten it with screws through bottom.

330

115

Front windows - 4mm ( or thicker ) plexiglass

Cockpit framing

( I used 25mm wide camping sleeping matton bottom between stringers. )

27

689705 grain

1256

529 ( grain )

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cut after gluing

705*45

Check ply dimensions on your boat.Cut parts little bigger and trim after glue has cured.

Fasten ports side ceiling ply first. Place it little backwards on rafters middle lineand use only clamps when gluing it on rafter.When clue had cured screw front ceiling torafter slowly and carefully -plywood can split easily.�

Between rafters overlapping part andfront ceiling ply is going to be small gap. Fill it with small batten of ply or with epoxy putty.

1257

281

347

342

4

25

32

623

Draw seats according your boat.Make opening for center case only to one ply.

263

126

Cockpit top and ceiling

reinforcement ply - check dimensions on your boat

28

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3 layers of 6mm ply

Make rails ca. 1300mm long

and cut to final length after gluing.

Both rails are made from same profile.

Rails take up positionaccording cabin bulkhead and rafters water seal. Clamp rails from hatch slotand drive temporary screws from inside cabin. Ports side rail could be screwed to mast partner from top.( not through rail slot )

28

28

10

9

9

8

28

283

19

28

11

8

41

174

41

19

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25

64

64

114

89

Hatch rails

water drain holes on starboard rail -not through to rail slot.

29

rails

hatch back frame

hatch cover 6mm ply

top mouldings

front moulding -fasten it when hatchis on boat!!

viewed from bow top moulding

back frame

ply- behind back frame

port side railstarboard side rail

556

14

24

479

479

19

10 ˚

10 ˚

front moulding 19*19

starboard side raillength 700mm

viewed fron cockpit

729 ply

556 ply

15

19 front moulding

29

700 rail

700 rail

viewed from below

hatch back frame

hole for lock - drill itafter dry fitting hatch on boat

729 ply

top moulding 15*28

20

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18

27

6

16

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6mm ply

30

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34

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10 ˚

10 ˚

130

260130

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Hatch ( alternative 1 )

port side raillength 700mm

30

282

520

175260

252vertical hatch

741 559

cover 4mm ply

stopper / sealer 6

mm ply

19*19*644

grain

all parts can be fastened at this stage

741

700 rail

1025side view

stopper

11

4014

35

14

35

19

21

10 ˚

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120

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rail length 700mm

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tiller - 35mm wide

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It´s not wise to do everythink by your self, but..

Oar socket extendersNylon oarlock fitting

25 mm ( outer dia ) stainless tube - 1,5mm walls

adjust tightness with washers

Marine rail tube end stanchion.( I used JUKOVA RAIL STANCHION S-25 )

Bow eye U-bolt - 25mm inner diameter.Regular U-bolt wont do the job.http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/shackles/sd080285-8/index.htm

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Curtains - from Chinese silk Sew hem for wire rope.

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550

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fold bag to two and make sews

To get nice 3d shaped bottom,flatten bag so, that seam is on middle.Twist triangle to bags end and sew it- like in photo. Make similar triangle to opposite end.Turn inside out and sew ropes to neck of bag.( rope = polytarp edge )

Curtains

Oooh - Are those curtainsmade from Chinese silk?

37

576576

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5025

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All wooden parts are 32*100mm timber.

4 washers between frame and wheel.Bearing made like this is very poor,but wheels have to roll only couple of meters.

With help of this trolley,you don't have to drive trailer lightsand wheel bearings in the water.It´s very easy to use unaided and could also be used as building trolley.

Boat in photo is my Oz Racer. This trolleyworks naturally in all pdracers.

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39

Part 2 – Spars, Sail and FoilsConcept and Hull Design - Perttu Korhonen

Foils, Spars and Sail - Storer Boat Plans

Table of ContentsOverview of spars, sails and foils........................................................................................................2Making the Spars..................................................................................................................................3Varnishing...........................................................................................................................................17Centreboards and Rudders.................................................................................................................18Rudderbox, Tiller and Tiller Extension.............................................................................................30Making the Sail..................................................................................................................................33General Sailmaking method..............................................................................................................37Appendices.........................................................................................................................................47

© Michael Storer some drawings in this section by Perttu Korhonen Page 1

Overview of spars, sails and foilsThese are well proven designs from the former Storer Boat Plans version of the PDRacer.It has now branched off to be the Oz Racer with a useful website at

http://www.pdracer.info

We spent a lot of time getting these items right and they add a huge amount ofperformance to the boat. I would estimate that all round performance is 20% better thanless carefully made items. This makes sailing much more of a pleasure and increases themargin of safety as the boat is more likely to do what you want when you want it.

There is also an important rigging page for the lug rig on my website athttp://www.storerboatplans.com/GIS/GISRigging.html

Please don't think for a moment that these rigging details are unimportant. Getting thedetails right means a great deal of extra performance as well – and it doesn't cost youanything at all. You do things if the right way and boat will sail much better.

This is the right position for the lug rig sail on this boat.


Making the SparsThe mast is a hollow box section made from 4 timber staves 12mm(½”) thick. We tried the construction out on our two boats and wewere amazed about how light the masts were and how much theywould bend without showing any sign of weakness. I exaggerate . . .

. . . they did show some weakness – but that’s because Biting Midge,my co-builder, didn’t use the right length of scarf joint (minimum 6:1– pic below right) when gluing the shorter bits together to make upthe staves.

Joining the timber to length

I f using full length pieces of timber for the masts this section can be ignored.

The salvaged timber was pretty knotty old pine and we had to cut out all the knots. This is one areawhere good timber is worth whatever you have to pay for it – saves heaps of time to have full

lengths for the mast staves.

Though if you have heaps of timeand not much money – then cheaperstuff is fine too – so long as you cutout the knots and your scarfs are upto specification. (diagram right)

The Biting Midge redeemed himselfby working out a neat method ofcutting the scarfs on his bandsaw –but the method of simply handplaning them works fine. Mark eachpiece with the scarf length and stack(diagram right)


It is important to follow the method for gluing end grain in the appendices. Make sure the timber isaligned correctly. Use fine nails to prevent the joints moving once the glue is applied.

You can use plastic sheet or the brown plastic packaging tape to prevent sticking to work surfacesetc. When the glue cures the timber can have excess epoxy sanded off – now you are ready to shapethe staves.

Mast Drawing

Here is the mast arawing. Some of you are about to give me a hard time for using tenths of amillimetre – but it is one of my sparmaking idiosyncrasies! Showing the tenths of a millimetre


allows me to see the wonderful mathematics of the taper gradually increasing from a fraction of amm to much larger differences. – it gives me a feel of just where the taper really starts and how itaccelerates. Anyone offended by the idea of half millimetres – I agree – they are just not importantin the scheme of things – so ignore them if you really want to.

Mark Narrow Staves

Choose the best end of each stave to be the bottomend.

Use the Mast Drawing above to mark the intervalsalong the mast. Mark one stave only with theintervals.

The first interval on the standard mast is 358mm.The rest are 588mm.

As the 588 measurement is inconvenient, mark iton a piece of timber, then use that to transfer theintervals onto the stave..

When completely marked just measure from thetop to the bottom to make sure that there haven’t been anymajor errors. Being out by 10mm on the overall length is notcritical.

Using a square draw clear pencil lines across the width of thestave at each measurement point.

Then use the interval marks on the first stave to mark theother staves – lie them side by side and mark across usingthe square. Much better than measuring each oneindividually!

Marking the final width at each Interval

There are two ways you can mark the widths at each interval.

Alternative 1 – If the timber is straight. Figure right.

Measure in from the sides of the board

If the current width of the stave is 67mm and therequired width is 46. then 67-46=21. Half of 21 is 10.5

So measure in from both sides 10.5mm and put aclear mark with a sharp pencil on the interval line.

Alternative 2 – If the timber is not straight. Fig right

Be careful that there is enough space either side of thecentreline to fit the required width.

In the past where the timber I have had to use is too bent I

have put it down on a wooden surface and put drywall


screws either side of the stave to hold it more straight.

Run a centreline up the stave - use a stringline (piece of string pulled tight.) between screws ornails at the top and bottom of the stave. The STRING has to be at the centre – not the SCREW ornail at the centre!

Put a pencil mark on each interval line where the stringline crosses it. This becomes the centreline.Measure out from the centre half the width required.

Double check each of the widths marked is correct against the drawing. The mast timber isprobably the most expensive of the timber purchased, so it is worth double checking to make surethere are no errors.

Mark the taper lines by clamping a stiff batten to the stave so it lines up with the marks.

Plane the edges of the narrow stave

(Note – owners of routers can speed things up by using the clamped batten as a guide for cutting

the taper with the router using an appropriate bit. When the first narrow stave is cut this way it

can be used as a template to do the same thing for the second stave. Use plenty of clamps to

prevent the batten from moving. After doing the sections between the clamps move the clamps to

new locations and finish the tapering)

The narrow staves have to be perfectly accurate down to the lines,

When planing the narrow staves there are two things to keep track of1/ That you don’t go past the points you are planing up to.2/ That you are planing square to the face with the measurements on it – if not the other face

will end up smaller or larger than the other. Use a square to check as you go.

One trick that helps is to skew the plane so it is not pointing directly along the timber but about 10

degrees to the left or right. This allows you to feel if your left or right hand is moving up or down


and moving the plane away from being dead flat.

Use the longest plane you have. Work slowly and carefully with long comfortable sweeps of theplane carefully monitoring how close you are getting to the marks.

Sight along the edge of the timber as you go. I often mark high spots by making pencil marks onthe edge which I then plane off. As you get closer adjust the plane to take finer cuts.

Internal Blocking Overview.

The internal blocking widths and positionsare shown in the mast and boom drawing

They have to fit inside the mast so they aresquare in cross section and the squaredimension has to match the width of thenarrow staves at that point.

Long Block at base

The long block for the bottom end of themast (1158mm long) need to be finishedexactly 38mm square. Cut the top off at an angle as shown to eliminate the risk of the mastbreaking at that height.

Shorter Blocking

The top block for the mast is 50mm long and 25.6mm square.

All the other shorter blocks are from scrap timber 20 to 25mm thick and cut square to the followingdimensions in mm.

36, 35, 32, 29.

Their sides have to be the same length as the narrow stave width for that height... Label them andtheir positions on a narrow stave clearly. If there are any slight size discrepancies between theblocks and the stave width the blocks can be moved along the stave slightly to match the stavewidth precisely.


Glue Internal Blocking between the two narrow staves

The next step is to make a ladder frame assembly by gluing the internal blocking between the twonarrow staves. (diagram previous page)

It is important to get the ladder frame assembly all in a straight line. Draw a straight line on thefloor or put the brown packaging tape on one of the wide staves so that the assembly won’t glue toit at this stage and use it as a base. You can see how wobbly our setup was in the picture above –we ended up clamping it to a long piece of aluminium angle (use packaging tape to preventaccidental bonding.

Check the appendices on “gluing end grain” before the blocking goes in and brush some mixedepoxy on any end grain on the blocking. If not using epoxy you will need to use clamps to get thepressure required for reliable gluing. Epoxy only require light pressure which the method belowprovides

Work from the bottom end applying glue then clamping the long block in positions. If you don’thave many clamps then put the clamp on at one end and tighten until you get a little bit of glueoozing out the joint. Then wrap brown packaging tape tightly around the assembly close to theclamp – use a minimum of three turns of tape. Then the clamp can be removed and moved to thenext section.

I would expect that the long block at the basewill need to be taped in three places and theother blocks will need to be taped in one. If indoubt add more tape!

(Pics are of the masts for the original Mk 2 mast.The latest one has more internal blocks to makeit easier to keep the mast straight)

When finished just go back and check theblocking is aligned correctly with both staves.If there MAKE SURE EACH BLOCK IS INTHE RIGHT PLACE. This is a perfect use forthe brown packaging tape – three times aroundthe assembly will hold nicely – just feel throughthe tape that the blocks are still in alignment.

When the glue has cured powersand off anyexcess epoxy or any areas where the blocks are projecting past the staves to get ready for the nextstage.

Glue the wide staves to the Assembly

It is good to have a line on the floor to make sure the assembly all stays in approximately a straightline. A small curve is OK if it is even.

Put the ladder assembly edge up. Put glue on all the upper surfaces. Place the ladder frame glueside down on one of the wide staves.


Check that everything looks in alignment. If the ladder frame is misbehaving turn the assemblyupside down, push it into alignment and hammer a fine nail through the wide stave into the spacerblock – don’t hammer the nail all the way in or it will be hard to get out later.

Put glue on all the gluing surfaces and drop the last wide stave in place. Double check that theedges of the ladder frame is aligned with the lines drawn on the wide staves. Use nails again ifnecessary – but leave their heads above the surface of the timber.

When clamping we only used one clamp to pull the timber together intitially – just tighten untilsome of the glue starts oozing out the join.

We aligned the bottom end and clamped. Then put three or four wraps of the brown packaging tapejust next to the base of the clamp. (Pic - the two masts for our boats right)

We then moved the clamp up about a foot, pushed everything into alignment and tightened theclamp. Put packaging tape around the mast as before by the base of the clamp.

Move up another foot and repeat until the mast isglued up.

Wait until the glue is cured (normally next day)then powersand any lumps of epoxy that are on theoutside of the structure.

Tapering the Mast Base

The mast base needs to be given a taper so it will fitinto the mast step inside the boat.

The base of the mast needs to finish up 56mmwide.

Mark the width 56mm of the end of the mast (seethe drawing right) on two opposite faces.


Clamp a flexible batten along the edge of the mast with a clamp at the 500mm mark and anotherclamp at the 352mm point.

Simply push the end of the batten in at the end until the outside face meets the pencil mark showingthe final end width and draw a continuous line along the batten from the original edge of the woodat the 352mm clamp up to the pencil mark at the end.

Plane two of the faces down to these lines.

Repeat again for the other two faces so the base of the mast is now 56mm square.

Planing off the excess wide staves

Remove the fine nails if they are still in place.

The wide staves can now be planed down flush with the surfaces of the mast

Run a sander over the surface to get rid of excess epoxy. Keep it flat on the surfaces.

Final Mast Finishing

Round the corners to no more than a 12mm (½”) radius – a greater radius will start cutting away thewidth of the glue join.

If planing by hand mark a line 7mm in from the edges. Then plane a flat surface along the corner asshown in the diagram below. Then plane off the corners and finish with a sander.


Cut the notch for the mast step pin

Now is the time to choose which will be the back and front of the mast. There is no structuralpreference. The way to choose is to look at the bend in the mast. We had bend of about 20mm inour masts. It is best if there is little or no sideways bend in the mast. So the biggest bend will before and aft and the notch has to be oriented to make sure that happens. See the drawing below forthe notch detail for the Mast Base.We drilled the 9mm hole first making sure it was very square –one of us viewed the drill angle from the side of the mast – the other viewed from the end of themast.

We then marked the sides of the slot and cut them out with a tenon or Japanese backsaw – though ajigsaw works fine if you make sure the cut is started square to the hole mark the end of the mast.

There should be a little bit of clearance so the pin can slot in easily – it needs that extra bit ofclearance as the mast is about to be epoxy coated and varnished which will narrow up the slot alittle. Note the little bevels at the opening of the notch.

Go over the mast carefully and check that it is ready to be coated – make sure all the holes from thetemporary nails have been filled and all excess glue mix has been sanded off the surface.

You will probably want to make the boom and do all the coating at once – so coating instructionsand final glassing of the mast is after the boom fabrication section.


Making the Boom

The boom is given a little taper at either end just tomake it look nice and save a bit of weight. Picbelow.

The mast had to have an accurate taper to get thecorrect bending characteristics, but the boom is a lotsimpler – it is not expected to bend. So use thesame tapering method that was used at the bottomof the mast.

Mark the width of the end of the boom (see themast drawing above) on all the faces of both ends ofthe boom with a pencil.

Clamp a flexible batten along the edge of the boomwith a clamp at the 800mm mark and another clampabout 300mm toward the midpoint of the boom.

Simply push the end of the batten in until theoutside face meets the pencil mark showing thefinal end width and draw a continuous line alongthe batten from the original edge of the wood at the800mm clamp up to the pencil mark.

Repeat for all edges and both ends

Plane the boom down to the lines. Radius thecorners 6mm.(1/4”). Sand the surfaces to get rid ofany roughness, fill any holes ready for coating


Cutting the yard and marking the taper

Leave the blank (piece of timber) overlength for the moment.

The width of the spar is given at different heights on the drawing. Mark these heights on one faceof the spar blank. (If attempting to eliminate some of the warpage put the intervals for the mosttapered end of the spar toward the most warped end, strike a new centreline and measure out fromthat).

Use the combination square to mark the intervals across the face of the blank.

Use the square to transfer the interval lines onto the other three faces.

Choose a face. Work along the spar measuring and marking the correct width on each interval. Theobject is to take an equal amount off each side - so if the blank face is 50mm wide and the requiredwidth is 46mm, then put a mark 2mm in from each side.

Where fractions of a mm are given estimate the position that the mark needs to be. A sharp pencil isessential.

Turn to the opposite face and mark the widths again.

Plane the taper on the first two faces

Place the blank at an appropriate height for planing. The marked faces should be to the sidesClamp it down using a scrap of timber under the clamp so the timber is not crushed. Keep theclamp away from the area that you are going to be working. Work on one end of the taper at a time.

Use the longest plane possible AND KEEP IT SHARP. If it gets blunt it will start to split thetimber. Glue joins will blunt the plane quickly.

Start planing from the areas where most wood has to be removed - plane toward the end of the


blank to avoid lifting the grain (though this does depend on the grain direction relative to thesurface being planed - if the grain starts lifting try planing in the opposite direction).

Continue planing, check to make sure that you are approaching the taper marks on both sidesevenly. DO NOT PLANE THEM OFF.

To produce a smooth taper USE LONG STROKES OF THE PLANE. Try and remove the timberevenly - don't concentrate on one spot or you will end up with a hollow. As you get closer adjustthe plane for finer and finer cuts.

When the taper on that end is done do taper on other end (if any), and then turn the blank over anddo the other face.

Mark the taper for the second two faces

Use the square to mark the intervals on the planed faces again.

Mark the taper widths on the faces that have just been planed.

Follow the same procedure as before to plane the tapers.Give the edges a 10 to 12mm radius.

The yard is now shaped.

The holes in each end are made the same way as per the boom on the normal rig including the

glass tape.


Epoxying and Glassing the Spars

Even if not planning to fully epoxy coat the mast and boom (yard if using the lug version) there issome fibreglassing to be done.

The largest piece of fibreglass is a single layer is a piece of cloth about 100mm wide wrappedaround the mast with the middle of the glass at the mast’s widest point. - it should be long enough togo around the mast twice The other ends of mast and boom are simply fibreglassed using a 50mmwide taped (see picture below)

To support the spars I generally put a piece of chipboard MDF or a piece of timber around 20mmwide up on edge – maybe clamped to the workhorses or clamped to the workbench. It will need tohave a top edge 500mm or longer. Put some brown packaging tape along that edge to prevent themasts and booms bonding to the MDF.

If fully epoxy sealing the mast and boom you can use the “Fibreglass taping method” in theappendices to do the glassing and coating in one hit.

Precut all the pieces of glass and glass tape and make sure they are big enough to do the job. The glass tapes are to prevent the mast and boom from splitting and are applied around the ends (as

shown in the pic)

Both cloth and tapes need to wrap around the mast with a minimum overlap of 20mm.

If doing the larger piece of glass with shorter lengths each will have to go all the way round themast and then the next piece up the mast will have to overlap the first by at least 50mm (2”)

Coat the mast (roller) including the slot in the bottom of the mast (disposable brush). The ends ofthe spars are all endgrain so will absorb the epoxy very readily – they will probably need a coupleof extra coats along the way turn it over from the base end – put a screwdriver through the notch.

Do the narrow tapes first following the method in the appendix before doing the bigger piece ofglass at the base.


With woven fibreglass cloth bought off the roll (not tape) be aware of the SELVAGE EDGE. If

you look closely at any manufactured edges of the cloth you will see that there are two or three

thinner threads that look quite different from the rest of the fibres. They are there to prevent the

cloth from unravelling. If they are left in the cloth and they become part of your boat they are

very difficult to get flat by sanding and are likely to leave a line in your paintwork. Simply find

their ends and pull them gently sideways out of the edge of the cloth.

The larger piece can have one edge lined up with the centreline of one of the mast staves (preferablythe back or front face of the mast). Use a roller to get it wetted out on that face – add a little bitmore epoxy if having problems wetting out the cloth so it goes clear.. Turn the mast over to thenext face – roll the glass down. Third face.

When you roll back to the original face don’t roll down the edge just yet. Have a careful look at theglassing and make sure it is sitting flat on the other three faces. Correct any bubbles etc

BEFORE rolling the last bit of cloth down onto the other edge.

Continue with the following coats as per the appendix (and slide the roller to keep the surfacesmooth after each coat) until there are three coats on the timber and the glass has received as maycoats as necessary to fill 90% of the weave. Don’t forget to recoat the ends of the spars.

Leave to cure. Dewax if not using Bote Cote - Sand down the edges of the cloth flush with thetimber. Sand the rest of the mast and boom to a matte finish. Be careful when sanding theradiussed edges not to go through the epoxy – might be better to hand sand.

Final Details for the Spars

Use a chisel or a stanley (carpet) knife to trim down the glass cloth that is covers the slot in the mastbase and any glass overlap at the ends of the spars. Finish off sanding the corners slightly to get ridof any glass bumps and sharp corners.

The final step is to drill some holes through the ends of the spars to allow attachment of the sailsand other fittings. Use a 12mm (½”) drill bit to drill one hole through each end of the boom – theholes should be positioned in the middle of the glass taped area. Sight carefully from a number ofdirections to make sure the holes will be square to the centreline of the spars. To prevent splinteringclamp a piece of timber to the side of the mast where the drill will exit. Sand the edges of the holessmooth. It is good if they end up with a 3 or 4mm radius where they meet the surface of the spars toprevent wear on the ropes that will eventually be tied through the holes.

If there are any sections where bare wood has been exposed put a couple of coats of epoxy on thembeing careful not to build up much thickness (the brush should not have much epoxy in it). Gentlyhand sand when finished.


VarnishingThe spars are now finished ready for varnishing – recommend a minimum of 3 coats for epoxy

sealed masts or 6 or more for non epoxy sealed masts. The best varnish to use is a “Spar Varnish”which has lots of UV filters to protect both the timber and the epoxy. Light sand the varnishbetween coats.

Fitting Masts to hulls

Put the pin in place in the mast step if not there already. Don’t over tighten the bolt. It should befingertight only. Put a bit of silicone sealant (polyurethane or silicone or waterproof PVA glue onthe bolt to prevent it from rattling loose.

Slide the mast into place gently with the slot in the bottom rotated to match the step pin. – if it startsto resist don’t force it. Pull it out – turn it round 180 degrees and see if it goes in more easily. If itwas easier the first time go back to that position.

Slide it in again gently until there is some resistance. Have a close look at the mast and partner tolocate the problem area. Sometimes it is possible to see the place by looking for scratches on themast. The area of the mast partner under the deck that is rubbing on the mast should be sandeddown with coarse sandpaper wrapped around a piece of timber. Remember that material can besanded off the opposite side of the partner too.

Keep going until the mast slips in without much trouble. Check the slot in the bottom of the mast iswell located on the pin – look inside the front buoyancy tank. There may need to be some materialremoved from there as well.

Put an “F” for Front on the forward face of the mast with a permanent marker just below deck level.

If the boat is being epoxy sealed - seal any areas of bare timber on the mast, boom or in the partneror step area – 2 coats wet on wet with a fairly dry brush to prevent a too thick layer being applied..


Centreboards and Rudders

Centreboard and rudder overview

Once anon a time when I was starting off in racing sailboats I bought a second hand NS14– at that time a family style boat that had lots of performance. Over the first season I didOK finishing about midway in my local fleet.

I had already owned a couple of wooden boats so I was used to doing all my repairs andmaintenance myself.

On this NS14 the centreboard and rudder were around the normal length but the boardswere a bit wide. So I decided to modify them myself. I sawed the back off both the rudderand centreboard and reshaped them in line with more modern theory – moving the point ofmaximum width back slightly and in the end producing a pair of really smooth shiny foils.

As a result of this the boat was a little bit faster and my results improved slightly.

A year later I felt that I had got the hang of the boat and was now looking to do everythingpossible to make it faster. A new mast, new sails the fittings reorganised so the boat wouldwork like clockwork.

It improved a bit more.

Finally I decided to get rid of my homemade foils and buy the best ones available.

The first time I raced the boat was a revelation. Suddenly I was in amongst the top fewboats in speed. But more importantly the boat felt completely different.

It would tack and gybe faultlessly coming out of the manoeuvres with heaps of speedrather than having to get the boat moving again.. When there were big waves and lots ofwind it would sail smoothly – before it used to stagger and stall. When sailing in tightconditions with lots of boats around (like milling around before the start) it gave me theconfidence to go in close and pick out a good spot without getting into tangles with otherboats.

Qualitatively and quantitatively the boat was much better – safer and more fun.

The difference between my hand hewn foils and the manufactured ones is not really allthat great – almost the same amount of labour – but the manufactured foils were builtcarefully to accurately reflect the correct airfoil (wing) section.

They used templates to get that accuracy. With this knowledge I have never needed topay someone for first class foils. About 50 dollars worth of materials and a few hours oflight labour (for small boats anyhow) and I can make a set the equal of what I could buy for600 to 800 dollars.

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT USING THE TEMPLATE

The drawing for the foil template will not be correctly sized when you print. It will be whatever


size your printer WANTED to print it. So it needs to be corrected.

Some people have changed the scale using a photocopier, but if you measure the length of the lineand email me with the length I can send you a corrected template. Simply send the measurement tome by email and ask me to send a corrected foilplot template. [email protected]

Centreboard and rudder construction comments

the centreboard and rudder are the same shape and can be made in one continuouslength 2100mm long (a bit over 6ft) or they can be made separately.

The rudder blade and centreboard can be glued up from timber strips or layers of plywood.Both are shaped the same way – the only difference is length.

The foil shape is a special section derived by Aerodynamicist Neil Pollock a few yeas ago.It is designed to increase lift over standard sections without increasing drag.

It also has an advantage that the foil has a flat section on each side which provided astable base for the foil to sit on when it is being worked on.

Comments on choice of glue for gluing the blank/s

Comments on glues for gluing the strips.In the past I have always used epoxy for gluing the timber strips for the centreboardand rudder – it is the strongest and most foolproof solution and the method belowis based on using epoxy.

However for our OZ Mk2s we glued the timber strips for the foils together with oneof the new Crosslinked PVA glues which are designed for exterior use (DON”T USEthe conventional PVA glues which dissolve when they get wet.)

I don’t feel that I can recommend the crosslinked PVA glues for general gluing ofother structural items on the OZ Mk2s – or at least I want to have more experiencewith them before I do – at the moment I don’t think they are anywhere near asstrong or as gap filling as the epoxy.

However using the crosslinked PVA for gluing up the staves saves a lot of mess andbother and in this application the glue will be protected by the epoxy and fibreglassthat sheaths the foil and carries a very large part of the structural loads anyhow.

Regarding timber selection – we used the cheapest reasonably light timber wecould find. In this case the staves were cut out of finger jointed softwood (Radiatapine) floorboards. We eliminated knots by simply cutting the worst ones out. Othergood timbers are Western Red Cedar (thuja occidentalis) or the Kirri (Paulownia)that is starting to be exported from China and grown in some other countries(including Australia)

Correct Filler powder for Epoxy Gluing the StavesUse Lightweight filler (white Q-cels) to thicken the epoxy as glue as it doesn't blunttools as the blanks are shaped


Setting up the staves for gluing

The Centreboard and rudder blanks can either be made up separately or made up as onelong blank over 2 metres long. See below for a drawing of the finished outlines of the foils There are two main ways to set up for gluing:

1. If the staves are short and need to be joined in the body of the board use a flatsurface like a table covered with a sheet of plastic. Please make sure the table ISuntwisted by putting a piece of timber across the table at either end and sight alongtheir tops. The downside of this method is it is sometimes hard to tell if the stavesare sitting flat on the table surface – so care has to be taken when clamping.

2. If the staves are full length it is OK just to glue up across two sawhorses (put plasticor plastic packaging tape on them so the epoxy doesn't stick). Sight along the topsof the horses to make sure they are parallel to one another - otherwise the boardwill be twisted. A sheet of plastic on the floor under the trestles will catch any gluedroppings later - there will be a lot of them.

Lay the staves across the sawhorses, arrange them so that you will have sufficient area tocut out the shape (we made up our blank long enough for both centreboard and rudder –but it is fine to make them up separately.

Using a thick pencil or chalk draw a couple of lines from one side of the laid out staves tothe other. This will allow you to simply line up the lines again to reproduce the requiredshape. Make sure that you keep the staves in the same order.

Gluing the Staves

Before mixing glue do a dry run of your clamping setup to make sure it works. Rememberthe hardwood trailing edge if using low density timbers like Cedar or Paulownia.

Roll all the staves up on their edges. Mix epoxy and add Q-cels to make a thick paste (likepeanut butter). Spread on the edges of the staves except for one at the edge. Roll thestaves back down so the glued surfaces are now in contact with the adjacent stave, line upthe reference lines and clamp lightly. Adjust the staves to correct the reference line and tomake sure the staves are actually touching the saw horses.

Tighten clamps to a firm pressure. Do not overtighten or all the epoxy will be forced out ofthe join (tighter if using crosslinked PVA. Leave to cure (epoxy thickened with Qcels willcure overnight in summer, in deep winter it can take a couple of days).

Thickness the blanks

Both the centreboard and rudder blanks are thicknessed to 22mm

The way to do this is to remove any glue lumps from the faces of the blank with a sander.

Choose the best side and plane flat by hand using a long bedded plane. You can checkfor twist by placing a straight piece of timber (called a “winding stick) at the far end of theblank and then placing another across at the close end and sighting to see if their tops areparallel. The second stick can be moved backwards and forwards to check different areas.

Planing will usually remove would remove around 1/2 to 1mm. If the blank is quite thick


bring it down to around 24mm using the thicknesser. Always check the depth of cut with atimber offcut BEFORE putting the blank through.

Set up the thicknesser using a piece of scrap timber to cut exactly 22mm.

Feed the blanks through MAKING SURE THE FACE TO BE PLANED IS FACING THERIGHT WAY. (usually upwards) This has to be right FIRST TIME.

Marking out the blank

Mark the foil outlines on one face of the blank/s.

The curved part of the back edge is marked by clamping a bendy batten to the back edgewith a couple of clamps – the same as the method used to taper the booms and the baseof the mast (see that section in the plans). The lower of the two clamps needs to be onthe 385mm position with the other one toward the top of the board. The bottom of thebatten is bent forward at the base until it touches the point 66mm from the bottom corner.

Jigsaw and the curve and plane to those lines.

Scribe a line down the middle of the leading and trailing edges. Use a scribing gauge,Stanley knife or similar.

Making the Foil section templates

The templates allow the transferring of the foil section accurately to the prepared blank.They are precisely drawn to match the final thickness of 22mm

The Diagram right gives an overview of the use of the templates.


The top third of the drawing right shows thestructure of the foil shape (note that the threesections nose, midsection and tail are ONEpiece – they are divided to show how thecurve between the shapes makes itstransition).

The second one shows the shape of thetemplate and how it is cut to make a leadingnose template and a tail template.

The final one shows how the templates areused to shape the blank. Material has to beremoved from the blank until the templates sitflat on the table and the blank as shown.

1. Prepare template Ply - take a piece ofply the a little larger than the templateplots. Each one must have a perfectlystraight edge. Use contact cement,tape or other non water-based glue (water based glues will make the paper swelland destroy the accuracy of the printout) to glue the foil plots to one of the pieces ofply. The baseline must run along a straight edge of the timber.

2. Cut out the template, working as accurately as possible - a jigsaw clamped upsidedown in a vice or "workmate" seems to work well if you don't have access to abandsaw - it works more accurately than most bandsaws (use safety glasses andkeep your fingers well away from the blade). Make sure blade is set square tobase. Hold ply down firmly. Work slowly and carefully running one side of the cutalong the printed lines.

3. Remove bumps - use a plane or sandpaper and block..

4. Cut template - to make two separate templates - one for the leading edge, theother for the trailing edge.

Shaping the foil section using the templates

The blanks end up shaped down the leading and trailing edges with a flat areabetween. The bottom edge is rounded to a smooth radius.


Locate the blank on a flat surface so it cannot move. Ioften use screws through the blank into the work surface.

The templates are accurately sized to simultaneouslytouch down on the work surface and sit flat on theunshaped central area of the boards.

I usually leave the blank screwed down while shaping,however I do make sure the screws are countersunksufficiently to avoid the plane blades.

Do the leading edge first.

Start with a coarse set hand plane, moving to a finer setas you get closer. The longer the plane the better. Plane down the board parallel to itsleading and trailing edges. The template allows you to continually check the amount of material being removed. Itmust be positioned perpendicular to the leading edge.

From time to time I survey the situation by holding the template in place and marking anyhigh spots with chalk the moving the template down the board a bit and marking the highspots there and so on – down the length of the board.

As you get closer and closer the plane will have to be adjusted finer and finer, until youchange over to coarse sandpaper and a long block (length of the sandpaper sheet). Holdthe block so it is parallel to the edge of the foil.

When very close change over to atorture board (see diagram right – thebody is some 6 or 9mm ply (¼” or3/8”)), hold the long axis of the tortureboard in line with the edge beingworked on but the sanding actionneeds to be at a 45 degree angle tothe edge.

When the first side is satisfactory turnthe foil over, screw the foil downagain, proceed as before.

Final shaping

The leading edge is most important as far as the performance of the foil. Check it over forany bumps, flats or hard edges and sand them into a smooth curve.

Use the torture board. Keep the long axis of the timber parallel with the edge of the foil.


The trailing edge is shaped by the same method as the leading edge but with the othertemplate. Note that it finishes to a narrow flat edge DO NOT ROUND THE BACKEDGE IT IS TO BE FINISHED SQUARE - Do not round the trailing edge corners.

The bottom edge of the foil can be rounded over in a smooth arc (pic above).

Explanation about Glassing and Cutting the Glass.

There are two parts to the glassing.

1. The tip is glassed first and sanded2. The body of the foil is glassed second.

Cutting the glass for the body of the foilWith the leading edge upwards so that the glasscan be laid around the foil from the trailing edge onone side, around the leading edge to the othertrailing edge in one continuous piece..

The glass is cut to drape over the leading edge(rounded edge) and cover both sidessimultaneously. Cut a length of glass cloth a littlelarger than the area to be covered for each layer tobe applied. The fibreglass for both boats will onlyneed to be one one layer (6oz or around 200gsm)

Drape the glass over the blank. Have a close lookat any manufactured edges of the glass fabric.There are usually two or three fine plastic threads(selvage edge) that stop the cloth from unravelling in the manufactured edges of the cloth.Pull them sideways out of the cloth - they are very difficult to sand smooth later.

Put the glass aside in a safe place where it won’t get dusty or things spilt on it.

Cutting the glass for the tipThe tip is glassed with a piece of double bias cloth first. Double bias might sound a bittechnical, but all it means is cutting out a piece to do the tip from the glass cloth you havebought, but instead of following the edges of the cloth the rectangular piece needs to becut out at 45 degrees to the edges.


This means the threads in the piece will be at 45 degrees to the edges of the piece thatyou have cut out. It doesn’t need to be exactly 45 degrees if that won’t come out of theoffcut from the cutting of the cloth for the body of the foils in the previous step.

This is by far the BEST way to cut out glass when it will have to curve two directions atonce like on the rounded tips of the foils.

One of the weird things about double bias is that if you pull one end the tape gets longer –but a lot thinner – and vice versa – it is quite difficult to keep in shape so it is important tohandle it carefully and cut out a piece bigger than you really need. Probably twice as wideand about 30 percent longer than you think you need.

Glassing the foils

Read the appendix regarding “Wet on Wet application of Epoxy”.

When happy with the shape and smoothness it is time to glass - pay particular attentionwhen making to decision to glass that the first 30% of the leading edge should be prettysmooth. When you run your hands around the leading edge there should be no bumps orhard edges – your good work here will result in much better boat performance later. Fix upany problems using the torture board or a long block as described before.

Generally I do foil glassing in two steps allowing the epoxy to cure after the first beforedoing the second:

1. Do the tip

2. Do the body

It is possible (but slightly more risky) to do the tip first immediately followed by thebody

If wanting to do it in one step I predrill a hole for a long plasterboard (drywall screwin the tip of the foils before they are glassed.

Then when the tip is glassed as below the screw can be put in and the foil


suspended between two sawhorses as in the section “glassing setup for the foils”below. Glassing the tip of the foil

G lassing the tip

When you are epoxying you only apply resin to theareas where you want the cloth to stay – with thesefoils the epoxy should only go about 20mm (¾”)past the tip.

Stand the foil with the tip upwards and clamp to asawhorse or in a vice so it can’t fall over.

First brush epoxy on the tip of the foil plus about3/4” and then lay the bias tape on the surface. Usea brush with a gentle dabbing motion to apply epoxyuntil the glass goes clear in the defined area.

Each time the resin goes tacky add another coatuntil the weave of the cloth is filled.

Allow the epoxy to cure then using 180 sandpaper and a cork block sand the end smoothand matte ready for the flatter surfaces of the foils to be glassed.

G lassing the body

I usually set the foil up with the leading edge facingupward by running long drywall screws at least25mm (1”) perpendicularly into each end of the foil.The screws need to be about 50mm (2”) behind theleading edge.

The screws can then be placed between twosawhorses with the foil suspended between them.The gap between the sawhorses and foil needs tobe no more than 12mm (1/2”). Place a piece ofscrap timber over the heads of the screws andclamp it to the sawhorse (or screw it down with acouple of screws.

Epoxy the first layer of glass

Mix epoxy and roll onto the glass.

Starting from the centre of the leading edge roll the glass into even contact with the blank.Working from the middle out to either end and from the front to the back pulls the glass outand stops wrinkles from forming.

The glass will go clear when the epoxy is rolled in properly. Add only enough epoxy to dothis - the texture of the cloth weave should still be visible.


Fill the weave

Wait for the epoxy to go sticky - if more epoxy is added before the first coat has becomesticky the glass will float up on top of the epoxy andthe foil won’t finish smooth.. Roll a coat over theglassed surface. If the roller is held so it cannot turnand lightly pulled across the epoxy it will smooth thesurface – as you do this the cloth has to be kepttensioned by working from the middle out to theends and from the front to the back..

When it goes sticky roll on another coat, skid the roller tosmooth the surface. Continue adding coats as theprevious one goes tacky until the weave is filled. Runsmay occur if you don't allow the previous coat to gotacky enough. With 200gsm (6oz) cloth usually there area total of three to four coats of epoxy required to fill theweave.

Trimming the glass when the epoxy is cured

When the epoxy is cured (usually overnight) the excess glass can be trimmed off. Workcarefully around the foil trimming down excess to a few millimetres. The final trimming willbe done with sandpaper and a cork block. Keep hands well away from glass edges. Ifyou drag your skin along a raw glass edge it might cause a cut

Final finishing

De-wax the foil if necessary. See appendix.

Give a power sand with a random orbit sander to get rid of any bad lumps and bumps fromglassing

Use a torture board with 150 grit paper to do a rough smooth, then move to 220. Useworn out paper on the leading edge and work carefully and gently so as to not cut rightthrough the glass to raw timber. As soon as any area loses its shine move onto the next.

Use the torture board to flatten off the flat trailing (back) edge so the edges of the flat aresharp – not rounded

Final Epoxy Coat.

When the foil is evenly matte (not shiny) it is ready for one very thin coat of epoxy to sealup the glass completely.

When the epoxy is cured give a light sand with fine paper (300grit) to make the surfacematte for

Drill two 8mm holes approx 150mm apart in top of blades for rope handles.


Painting/Varnishing Foils

(Read Appendix on Painting/Varnishing.)Be aware that the boat’s performance will depend largely on the smoothness and fairnessof the foils. It does make a huge difference.

Use a two pot polyurethane for a strong speccy job, coat with epoxy hi build primer andthen sand sand sand. White is preferable for heat reflection and to enable spotting ofweed when sailing. Follow directions on cans

Varnish is easier but will increase maintenance slightly – follow directions on can. Dothree coats with a light sand between then use the method below to make surfaces reallyfair and smooth.

Sand well between coats to remove defects – use a fine paper (280grit) on the tortureboard.

Be VERY careful when sanding the round of the nose – use fine/worn paper with a corkblock and light pressure.

Apply final coat or if varnishing apply another two coats giving a light sanding betweenthem with 280 sandpaper.

Sand final coat up through the grades (you can use wet and dry paper wrapped round acork block.280 until it is 70 percent matte and 30 percent shiny320 until it is 90% matte400 grit until the shine is all gone. This is an excellent racing finish.

If buffing the board (I wouldn't bother) make sure the cutting compound contains no wax orsilicon as it repels water resulting in air bubbles sticking to the surface and causing extradrag.

Making the handles

Cut two lengths of the 6mm rope that you are using for the mainsheet approx 350mm long.Heat seal the ends using a match and wet fingers (so the molten plastic will not stick tothem).

Tie a figure-of-eight knot in one end - feed the rope through one hole - take it diagonallyacross the top of the board, through the other hole and tie another knot. It provides ahandle and acts as a stop to prevent the foil from going down too far.

Fitting the spacer to the centrecase

The centrecase is larger longitudinally than the centreboard. The centreboard is about280mm wide and the case in the same direction is 316mm.

The approximate difference of 36mmis a bit large but allows errors in building to be soakedup simply.

Plane down a scrap piece of timber as a spacer to fill the gap. I recommend leaving about6mm of space behind the centreboard so it will slide up and down easily. The spacer can


be a bit narrower than the 25mm of the case.

Don't glue it in place but attach it with a single screw through the side of the case plywoodjust under the top stiffeners. That way, if it gets bashed up by the boat hitting something itcan be replaced. We seldom see much if any damage even stopping suddenly in higherspeed boats.


Rudderbox, Tiller and Tiller Extension

Overview

I hate to be blunt but rudderboxes break if you don’t use the bolts in the drawings.The Rudderbox shown in the photos use our own homemade rudder fittings including lotsof glassing to hold them on! Great if you want to save the last dollar. The info to make asimilar set up on Peter's website www.pdracer.info In the building pages

However, these plans will be focussing on using off-the-shelf rudder fittings – usually instainless steel or plastic – just buy them and whack them on. As you can see from thedrawings the width of some of the framing may have to be changed to match the insidewidth of the fittings.

Rudderbox

Make up two rudderbox faces.

The leading edge block has to space the ply faces apart by25mm.

Use the “One hit gluing and coating method” in theappendix to coat all the internal surfaces of the rudderboxbefore gluing the items together.

When the glue has hardened sand any excess glue downflush with the timber.

Leave the outside faces uncoated. Don’t glue on theframing yet.


Plane the Rudderbox framing down to match the rudder fittings

A standard stainless steel rudder gudgeon is shown at the bottom right of the drawingbelow. Its internal width has to match the overall width of the rudder box plus the externalframework shown in the drawing above and the picture right.

Note that the drawing below is from the OzRacer, but it shows the fastenings andfittings correctly – the tiller is different on the Ocean Explorer.

The 19 x 45mm stock can be planed down to match this thickness. Its width can also bereduced to save weight and bulk on the rudder.

Rudder Fittings

The picture above also details the method of bolting on the rudder fittings. Note themethod of bolting on the rudder fittings using one bolt through the whole rudderboxassembly and two shorter countersunk bolts fitted from the inside.

The shorter bolts are simply tightened until the countersunk head is flush with the internalfaces of the rudderbox. If the bolt starts to rotate a fine screwdriver head place sidewaysin the screw slots will stop this. Then remove the bolts and dip them in epoxy before fittingthem permanently. This is a good procedure for all fastenings – it keeps the water out andincreases the strength of the attachment.

Transom Gudgeons

There are two types of rudder fittings for the back of the boat.


1/ Gudgeons with holes. The matching rudder fittings are to be bolted to the transom. Ifusing a single pin it shouldn’t be so long that it will drag in the water.

If using pintles with integral pins move the top fitting down ¼” so the lower pintle engagesthe lower gudgeon first. It makes it LOTS easier to put the rudderbox on the back of theboat as one pintle can thread in first and then you thread the second.

Make up Tiller Extension

Optional – the tiller extension allows you to sit in many different place around the boat.For best performance it is best to sit at the front of the cockpit or a little further forwardproviding the bow transom doesn't dig in and start slowing the boat down.

The Tiller extension can be any piece of timber 780mm long with a minimum cross sectionof 19 x 12mm (¾ x ½”). Glue ply pad on the end.

When the glue cures round the corners and drill the 6mm (¼”) hole. Sand off the sharpedges of the hole so the rope tiller extension will not chafe.

Coat with epoxy dewax if necessary and varnish.


Making the Sail

Sail choices for the Mk2 OZ Racer?

These components work perfectly on the OZ Racer. If you want to use them for aPDRacer it is your responsibility to check the rules or any rule changes to make sure theystill comply. We are not responsible for ensuring that sails or other components used Foryour boat to be a legal puddleduck.

The lug rig fits the Ocean Explorer. The sprit sail will not fit. These instruction have beenadapted to match the Ocean Explorer.

Our general recommendation is to make the sails to be made of polytarp. This means thesails cost about 1/12 of the cost of commercial sails.. It doesn't mean any more than aslight performance decrease compared to commercial sails as we have gone through aserious development process involving developing four masts and four different sails towork out the optimum simple design.

The overarching reason is for cheapness.Materials for sails can be as little as $40 forquality polytarp plus a few hours labour.

Our reason for not liking second hand sails is thatit will lead to a sail “arms race”. I know I can pickup a really nice sail two or three years old foraround $100 and my boat will go faster than if ithad a polytarp sail. Someone else can see thisand get the same type of sail but only one yearold for $350. I can respond by getting a sail thathas only been used in one regatta for around$500. This might be important if racing becomesregular for Oz Racers.

That is getting quite close to the cost of building awhole OZ mk2! Polytarp is a great way ofensuring the sails remain cheap for everyone.

The other reason is that because we have gone through a careful development process tomake sure the sail works really well with the OZ racer and most manufactured sails andother rigging will not suit the boat as well. Additionally the relationship between the centreof the sail and the centreboard might be out of balance leading to a large drop inperfromance and difficult handling.

When we find a better material that is also cheap and strong, available in big enough sizesto make reasonable sails with simple methods we will allow it as well

Sail Materials and Construction

We still are in the early days of making these ultra cheap sails so the instructions here arefor fairly conventional sailmaking methods We know they are reliable.

© Michael Storer 2006 Page 33

So far our sails have been used for about 80 hours of sailing and have been exposed tothe sun for 300 hours. They still work fine though we will probably be making up new sailsbefore the National Titles in Goolwa in March. This is probably equivalent to year of use inmost racing boats and the sails are going well.

The Americans have done a huge amount of practical research on sticking polytarp sailstogether with double sided exterior carpet tape and so on – but we just don’t know how itwill hold up in Australian conditions. So we use stitching. Cheap and very reliable. Moreon that later.

Polytarp sizes

I have drawn up our standard sail sizes to give the minimum tarp sizes for making a singlesail and also for making two sails out of the same tarp.

Some of the suppliers on Peter Hyndman's http://www.pdracer.info site are selling a higherquality polytarp as well as fully made up sails. Because of the simple construction andcheap fabric they are less thean half the price of regular sails.

Also polysails.com can send a nice package of sailmaking materials internationally.

Other configurations are possible but see the sail drawing below as one of the edges ofthe sail (the leach – ie back edge) needs to be in line with the long edge of the tarp.

None of the existing edge reinforcements or eyelets of the original tarp can be used –none of the edges of the sail are straight.

Tarps often have lots of quite heavy creases when they come out of the packaging. Wepegged it out in the sun for a day and the worst of the creases disappeared.

Stitching the sail

Not everyone has a sewing machine – but the sail is put together temporarily using double sidedtape – so it is possible to get it all assembled than stitched afterwards.

General Comments on Lug Rigs

I would like to think I am something of an expert on lug rigs ritted to small boats. I have sailedcountless hours with such rigs including weekly club races against conventional boats through toclassic boat regattas.

My website has probably the best resource on the web (and maybe anywhere) for setting up lug rigsto sail really well – almost equal to “modern” boats.

Experience sailing a OZ Mk2 with a lug rig.

I did put the much larger Goat Island Skiff sail on one of the Queensland OZ Mk2s earlier this yearas an attempt to take the maximum sail area record from the Americans (right). I was only game tosail in quite a light wind as the standard OZ Mk2 mast is too lightweight and flexible for such alarge sail area – I was worried about breaking it.

As you probably know the sail area on the OZ Mk2 is quite large as standard (82sqft) but lug rigwas much larger (105sq feet).


The OZ Mk2 handled the big lug rig beautifully, sailingupwind and down sedately under control andaccelerated quickly to quite high speeds in the lightbreeze. It tacked and gybed reliably as well.

The picture on the cover of this plan supplement is ofthe OZ Mk2 with the Goat rig, but I have photoshoppedit to give a more correct scale for this revised 90 squareft (8.3m2) version. I don't think there is much point ingoing smaller as the lug rig is easy to reef to match thewind.

Advantages and disadvantages.

The lug rig has a number of advantages and only onedisadvantage that I can think of. So let's talk about thedisadvantage first.

There is an extra spar to make up and I do recommend that it be made round to make best use of theflexibility to get an improved gust response for sailing in strong and fluctuating winds.

It probably adds around 2 to 3 hours to the building time.

The advantages are 3. The sail can be reefed easily for different wind strengths and sea conditions. I have made

use of this capability by making the sail slightly larger than the original sprit rig. There is nodiscredit in sailing around with the sail reefed in moderate winds – particularly when youcan use full sail in light winds and blow everyone away with the performance.

4. The spars are shorter allowing for easier stowage and cartopping – a maximum of 3.9m(13ft) – three feet shorter than the original rig.

5. Shorter spars reduce the timber cost and maybe reduce the weight slightly.6. The centre of effort of the sail is a little lower allowing a larger sail to be carried.

Parts and Materials for making the sail

Overview – The Americans have done a huge amount of work as far as making sails with really

cheap materials – like using double sided tape used to put exterior carpets down around

swimming pools – some brands work well, but others don’t. These plans are being sold

throughout the world and we don’t know what the quality of these different products are in

different areas. So our solution is to just talk about the normal construction materials for

conventional sails – reliable and reasonably cheap. If you want to experiment – feel free.

The final thing is that the mast and sail of the OZ Mk2 are designed as a unit. You can’t change

one without changing the other – or you can – but you will probably degrade both the

performance and the ease of handling.

Polytarp – we bought a polytarp to make our sails. There is nothing wrong with this approach – butcompanies mentioned on our website are able to supply a good quality polytarp fabric. Werecommend a fabric weight of 140gsm (3oz/yd2).

Sailmaker’s double sided tape – this is an industrial grade double sided tape – once it sticks itdoesn’t like to let go.


Eyelet kit – from a sailmaker, tarpaulin maker or camping goods shop. The best ones have littleteeth punched into the washer side that grip the cloth. We were not able to find them and had noproblems. Internal diameter of the eyelet should be around 12mm (1/2”). We were able to buyeyelets and the dies for around $15 as a kit.

Thread – You will need a really good big spool of thread. We bought some normal size bobbins andthey lasted about 5 metres. We a really big spool at a $2 shop. It needs to be polyester and get it inblack or very dark blue – it resists UV light better. Also just try to break it in the shop.

Masking tape – paper crepe type – 19mm (3/4”) wide

String – about 6m (20ft)

Tools

Sewing Machine – the sail can be fully assembled and sewn after. A good domestic machine will befine – or take it to a tarpaulin maker/sail maker/saddler – many places that can alter clothes haveindustrial machines that will make quick work of the sail. A zig zag stitch is best – details in theseinstructions below.

Scissors RulerTape MeasurePermanent Marker – not too thickFlexible batten for marking curves – must bend smoothly around 5m (17ft). Eg Piece of aluminiumsection, fibreglass sail batten, piece of timber, piece of plastic electrical conduit.


General Sailmaking methodThe following method gives the general method of marking out the straight and curved edges of thesail and the details of adding the eyelets and hems. There are some cheats over conventionalsailmaking methods, but they work quite well.

Marking out the sails

Lay the tarp out flat on a level reasonably hard surface and pull it out so it is flat. Hold itout with weights on the corners or by taping them down.


Mark out the leach – (the back edge) first – it is the longest line between the corners P andC for the lug rig sail outline above – see the small inset diagram. On the drawing it is

the one marked as having to be aligned with the edge of the tarp – keep it a minimum of50mm away from any stitching, seamed edges, hems or overlapped reinforcements on thepolytarp.

Next mark the “Th” (Throat) corner. This provides the baseline so you can marke the “Tk”(Tack) corner.

This gives us the four corner points of the sail and the lines give us the reference points forsetting up the curves of each edge.

Marking the reference points for the sail’s edge curves

Mark the corners as shown with the letters H, Th, Tk, C. They have to be in the correctpositon relative to the edge of the polytarp. (see next diagram)

Choose one of the edges to mark from the dimensioned drawing. Use two weights(anything heavy that you can tie a string to - (housebrick, heavy tools, jug full of water) totension a stringline that passes over the corner points of that edge.


Divide the edge P to Th into four parts as shown in the detail drawing above. Their actualposition is from the dimensioned sail drawing above. Mark their position with a small

cross. Mark the short lines using masking tape stuck to the sail – make sure it lines up with thecross as the base and use a square to make sure it is at 90 degrees to the stringline – becareful not to push the stringline out of position! Note carefully that some of the shortreference lines go towards the outside of the triangle and others go towards the inside.

Make very sure have the intervals marked on the correct sides – the side with fourintervals has “H” and “T” at its ends.

Next use the sail drawing measurements to mark the distances along the reference linesmeasured from the stringline to mark the points the curved lines must go through. Put aclear mark on each of the short reference lines.

Copy the curves from the drawing to the P – C edge and the C – Tk edge as well.


Now mark the curved edges of the sail. The curves must meet up with the corners andpass through any points on the reference lines. You can use anything that curves evenly.A wooden batten, some electrical conduit pipe etc.

That’s the outline of the sail marked out. The next part is to allow a bit more fabric so theedges can be folded over to make a hem around the sail later.

Marking the hem and corner detail

The next drawing shows the detail of what has to happen. We folded a piece of paper tobe the width of the hem (40mm wide) and used it to mark a dashed line 40mm outside thecurved sail outline.

Detail the corners as shown. Corner H is redrawn to create a width of approx19mm.


Fitting the Corner Patches

Here is the drawing for the size and position of the corner patches.

The large patch at bottom right and the one along the bottom edge of the sail need to becut from the polytarp with the long edge parallel to the edge of the polytarp. The dottedlines indicate reef points if required - the reef point eyelets at the edges of the sail need tohave a total of 4 layers of sailcloth using patching like the corners of the sail.


Cut the sail outline and cut and fit the reinforcing patches

The sail may be cut out – be very clear that you are cutting around the newly marked line40mm out from the actual sail edge. Cut the corner details as in the previous diagram.

The offcuts are used to cut the corner patches. The layout is shown below. The importantthing is that the longest edge of each sail patch needs to be parallel to the original edge ofthe tarp to take advantage of the low stretch direction of the threads that make up thecloth. Lay the bottom of the sail over the scrap material to mark the long patch.

Patch measurements are shown in the drawing on the previous page. Cut them and labelthem with H, C or T as you go. Check the patches against the sail shape – they have to fitinside the curved outline of the sail – 40mm in from the cut edges. The biggest change isthat some of their edges will need a slight curve (see diagram below).

Use the sailmaker’s grade double sided adhesive tape to stick the first two patches inplace as per the diagram below. Important - Keep the tape around 6mm away from theedges of the polytarp. Some tapes leave a sticky residue on the sewing machineneedle which can jam the machine.


Fit the last three patches (diagram below). Also you need to make up a number of smalltriangular reinforcements as shown in the patch and reinforcement drawing above along

the edge between P and Th.

If you need to transport the sail to get it stitched.

Now the sail is all assembled it needs to be stitched. The sailmaker’s double sided tape isstrong enough to hold it together quite well for transport – if you need to take it to someoneelse’s house or a dressmaker or a sailmaker.

If using a domestic sewing machine I would recommend that the patches are stitched first, then thehem rolled over and stitched separately. This reduces the load on the machine.

I would put the double sided tape along the outside edge of the hem (the edge of the cloth) but leavethe paper protection on the upper face to prevent the tape from sticking while the sail is beingmoved around. Then after the patches are stitched the paper protection can be removed and the hemstuck down then sewn.

If using an industrial machine the hem can be rolledover now as well as it will be powerful enough tostitch through lots of layers (see the section after thefollowing).

Stitching the sail

The best stitch is a zigzag pattern that goesthrough the cloth 3 or 4 times per zig. Diagramright.

For those who haven’t done machine stitchingbefore you start and finish by going backwardsand forwards with the machine one time forabout 19mm (3/4”).

The edges of all patches need to be sewn down


including the ones that run along the curved edges of the sails. Also the hidden edges ofthe patches need to be sewn. Next diagram.

Roll over hems, stick and sew.

The hems need to be rolled over. It is important to be quite careful with this part of thework. The hems tend to crease because of the geometry of the curved edges. It isimportant that the creasing is minimised by folding the edges over very accurately.

Put double sided tape along the outside edge of the hem.

Fold over the hem along the edge H to T first. It is easiest starting from H and work to T.

Sit or kneel outside the sail and lean forward so you can keep a clear view of the curvededge of the sail – this is where the fold has to take place. Fold the hem in with handsspaced about 400mm. Try to keep a slight but even tension along the cut edge.

Do T to C (start at T). Then finish with H to C – which is the most important one to getright. When the whole hem is down it can be stitched as before. Also stitch down theends of the hems in the corners of the sail – so the whole fold is stitched down securely.


Fit Eyelets

The edge of the finished eyelet must finish at least 6mm (1/4”) away from the hole. Thismeans the hole will have to be further away from the edge than 1/4”.

Eyelet kits contain a punch for making the hole – usually a tube with a sharp edge. Put ascrap wooden block under the cloth and rest the sharp edge of the hole punch on thefabric and hit the other end with a hammer – just hard enough to punch a hole.

There are usually two dies in a eyelet kit and two differentparts of the eyelet itself.

You assemble the whole thing from the bottom up(diagram right) then hit the top with mid strength blowsfrom a hammer or mallet until the eyelet bottom has bentover and covered the eyelet top.

Your sail is now complete.


Appendices1. Cordless Battery Drill with Clutch2. Wet on Wet Epoxy Application and dewaxing cured epoxy3. One hit coating and gluing4. Gluing and filleting using snap-lock Plastic Bags5. Precoating Plywood Panels before Assembly6. Gluing endgrain7. Building strong lightweight boats - a note on the use of epoxy8. Fibreglass taping method – coat and tape at the same time.9. Painting and Varnishing

Cordless Battery Drill with Clutch.

A marriage made in heaven. The drill can be battery (most convenient) or mains powered.It is best if it has a variable clutch. If you have a drill without a clutch, you can often buy anew chuck with inbuilt clutch.

The screws are self tapping and match a Phillip's head bit in the drill. Just hold two piecesof wood together with one hand and drive screw in with drill in other. Fast - and the screwsshould be removed and may be re-used.

If you want to minimise the indentation where the screwhead meets the ply, use a plywood pad already placed onscrew. If gluing, the pad should have some plasticpackaging tape wrapped around it to stop accidentalbonding to the workpiece.

I mass produce the pads by cutting a strip of ply (usually6mm, 1/4" thick) about 19mm wide (3/4"), covering oneside with packaging tape, then cutting it into 19mm (3/4")squares.

Screws should be removed when the epoxy is hardenough – usually the following day – it should feel hardwhen you try to indent it with a thumbnail.

If the screws ever get stuck so they can’t be undone apply some heat using a cheapelectric soldering iron (right). A couple of minutes and the epoxy will soften enough forthem to be unscrewed.

Wet-on-Wet Coating and Dewaxing Cured Epoxy.

Great improvements have been made to Bote Cote brand epoxy in regards to thisproblem. It is very unlikely to occur at all. All the preparation you need for the nextprocess is to sand the hardened epoxy surface. The wet-on-wet application method is stillthe best as you don't have to sand between the coats.

However other brands of epoxy may suffer from wax.

As epoxy cures some of the unreacted components migrate to the surface, leaving a waxyresidue.

This can reduce the adhesion of following coats, whether epoxy or paint and make themgo "fish-eyed" (the surface finishes pitted).

This is why I always use a "wet-on-wet" epoxy application method (see "epoxy coating"


above). If the surface is allowed to cure it will have to be dewaxed (not Bote-Cote) andsanded (Bote Cote too).

Dewaxing - When the two to three coats have cured I always de-wax the surface using aplastic domestic scourer (Scotchbrite) and water with some cloudy ammonia added.Scrub very thoroughly.

You can then sand the surface to key it for further painting, epoxying or gluing.

One Hit coating and gluing

An extension of wet on wet epoxying is a method for coating areas that are easy to get atnow (plain plywood components) may be hard to get at a bit later when other parts areattached. A couple of examples are fitting the bottom, fitting the side decks and fittingframing to the bulkheads.

For example if gluing the bottom panel in place it is easy to coat the inside of the bottom atthe same time. For major gluing processes like this it is important to make sure thateverything will work smoothly – do a DRY RUN without the epoxy to make sure that youhave enough screws etc to hold the bottom on OK – you can use the same holes againwhen you are putting the bottom on permanently.

This is the method (put on your disposable gloves!!!).

1/ get all the framing that the bottom will be attached to bevelled and ready to accept glue

2/ put three coats of epoxy “wet on wet” on the inside of the bottom as per the method inthe appendix above.

3/ immediately put glue (epoxy plus the gluing thickening powder – make up to a peanutpaste thickness) on all the framing of the hull that the inside of the bottom will be glued to –spread it out ready to take the bottom.

4/ drop the bottom on with its wet face in contact with the glue in the previous step andscrew the bottom in place.

5/ clean up any excess glue that has squeezed out of the joints about 20 minutes after theassembly. If you wait till tomorrow you will be sanding forever. Use a flat piece of timbersharpened to a chisel edge on the end with a sander.

The same method can be used when putting the framing on the bulkheads. Coat one sideof the bulkhead immediately before gluing the framing on that side.

Filleting and Gluing using “Snap Lock” Plastic Bags

Most supermarkets have varieties of “snap lock” bags. They have a seal across theopening of the bag that can be pressed together with finger pressure. They make it a loteasier to keep epoxy glue away from areas on the boat where you don't want to put it.And also areas on yourself where you don't want to put it!

Make up some epoxy, thicken it to the consistency of peanut butter. Put a "snap lock"Glad plastic bag into a tin and fold the top of bag over lip of tin (like a garbage bag in agarbage bin - trashcan). Scrape epoxy into the bag.


Take bag out of tin, seal opening and cut one corner out of bag to make a hole a few mm(approx 1/4") across - size will need to varywith consistency of mix.

By gently squeezing the bag a bead of epoxywill ooze out of hole in controlled way from thehole.

Pipe a bead of epoxy down the angle whereyou want the fillet Then use a shaped piece oftimber as shown right to shape the epoxy.

Use a filleting stick of a radius three times thelesser ply thickness to smooth down the fillet.Practice getting it smooth and even.

Remove excess from either side of fillet with astirring stick that has been sharpened to a chiselpoint. It is possible to lay masking tape down eitherside of the join in the first place so that the excesscan be removed with the tape.

Precoating Plywood Panels before Assembly.

I find this the best method, where possible.

It saves the effort of sanding between coats of epoxy and prevents any waxing problemsbetween the wet-on-wet coats.

Mask off all areas that you don't want coated. (Especially any areas you are going to glueto later – not strictly necessary with the Eureka.)

Lay surface flat where possible.

Mix resin and hardener. You don't need to add any powder when you are coating –they are only used when gluing one piece to another.

Apply first coat.

NOTE - If doing large areas the epoxy will go off too quickly if left in the mixing tin.You will have much more working time if you pour most of it out over the surfacefirst and roughly spread with a squeegee, before going back with a roller to spreadproperly.

Don’t bother to buy a commercial squeegee – just use an offcut of ply about 200 x75+mm (8 x 3”). Make sure the working edge is straight and that you have sandedthe sharpness off the edges and corners.

When it is spread hold roller so it cannot rotate and pull gently along surface of epoxy. Itslicks the surface smooth and pop any air bubbles.

When first coat has become quite tacky, roll on second coat. Slick the surface.

When second coat is tacky roll on third (if required) and slick it down.

IMPORTANT - Remove masking tape when third coat is still tacky. You don't wantto glue it down - forever.

When epoxy is fully cured turn the panels over, sand off any drips that have come from theother side and repeat process if required.

When the epoxy has cured sand the panels smooth using a random orbit sander (these


tools are a very worthwhile investment but hand is fine too). 180 grit paper is about right.Sand enough to remove gloss.

If you have problems getting a good finish speak to your epoxy dealer.

Building strong lightweight boats - a note on the use of epoxy

Epoxy is expensive stuff, so when there is a bit left over from a process there is atemptation to use it somewhere.

Don't do it! The boat has been carefully designed to be strong enough already - all you willdo is add weight and ruin the boat. Where you can use it for a legitimate step, do so - butthink about it first.

Another time it is best to throw out epoxy is if it is starting to go off in the bag or tin. If it isstarting to get too hot to comfortably hold it is going to be hard very shortly - you areunlikely to have enough time to put it into place.

Furthermore, hot epoxy fillets slump badly, hot coatings wax and get fish-eye pitting, andhot glue joins end up with lumps that stop clamping. Make up a smaller mix next time andget it out on the surface earlier – straight after careful mixing in the tin or bag.

Gluing Endgrain

See drawing of endgrain right..

When gluing endgrain with epoxy it is a two stageprocess.

Mix enough resin and hardener to do the job. Stir well.Brush the mixed epoxy onto the endgrain.

Wait 5 minutes - brush more epoxy on the endgrain.Now add the high strength gluing powder to the epoxyin the container and apply to gluing surfaces.

And hold in place by normal method until the epoxysets up. .

Fibreglass taping method

The method for fibreglassing hull seams can use the same wet-on-wet approach as abovebut with a small change to integrate the application of the glass tape. It makes it a veryclean and tidy process once you get the idea.

Fill any screw holes, allow the epoxy to cure and sand flat. Radius the edges that the tapewill be applied to. A minimum of 3mm (1/8”) is just enough to allow the glass to wraparound without lifting. A bit more is better – but don’t round the edges around the transomat the stern too much – the water wraps round the corner when sailing causing drag.

Apply first coat of epoxy to hull (pic below left). Note the masking tape to prevent epoxydrips running around the corner onto the deck. The finish can be quite smooth by holdingthe roller so it can’t turn and lightly and slowly skid it across the surface to pop bubblesand get rid of roller marks..


Put glass tape down in wet epoxy (pic below right). I should be wearing gloves.

Detail of glass along transom.(pic below left). Use the roller or a cut down disposablebrush (bristles not longer than 25mm (1”) to work epoxy into the glass tape – it goes clearwhen the epoxy has wetted it out correctly.

An example of wetting out (pic below right) – the glass along transom is now wetted outand becomes clear. Continuing with the transom sides – here cutting tape to length.

Roller method (pic below left)


Finished taping and second coat is put on when first gets tacky (pic below right) – roll theepoxy out well so as to not add too much weight – but roll a little bit extra on the tape – toomuch and it will run down the side.

When epoxy goes tacky apply a third thin coat and skid the roller to give a smooth finish.

If the weave pattern is still visible in the glass tape roll another coat to fill up the weave.

Leave epoxy to cure.

The next day – while the epoxy is still a little cheesy (if you leave it too long it will make thishard work) set a fine spokeshave fine and get rid of the edge of the glass tape. Keep thebody of the spokeshave over the glass but set the blade with a tiny bit of depth on theedge side but no depth on the other.

Work carefully and slowly.

Then sand the glass tape using the random orbit sander and 120 grit paper. Keep theedge of the sander lined up with the edge of the glass, but keep the sander body over thetape. Angle the sander - concentrate a bit of weight on the side of the sander over thetape edge and keep the rest of the sander off the surface of the tape.

Finish off by sanding the rest of the bottom to a matte finish (no gloss) but don’t go throughthe epoxy to the timber.

Generally I brush a couple of thin coats onto any areas where I go through to the wood –allow that section to cure and give a light sand – making sure I blend the edges of thebrushed area.

Painting and Varnishing

Paint is more durable and will protect the epoxy and timber the best.

Varnish hides a rough surface better. If you have done a rough job the timber grain willhide it. Make sure the varnish contains ultra-violet filters.

My usual plan is to varnish the inside of open boats and decide to paint or varnish theoutside. Generally if you can store the boat indoors when not in use there is no reason tonot leave the outside clear finished. But it is going to be left outside much of the time Iwould consider a painted exterior including the gunwales and remember to leave the boat


upside down.

There are two basic types of paints and varnishes.

1.Two pot - which is very hard and durable, but can be hard to get a good finish with abrush and to touch up. You have to be careful of the fumes. No primer or undercoat isrequired.

2.Conventional varnishes - thin with turps, are easier to put on, but may remain soft forsome time. The conventional varnishes often have a better gloss and I think they aremuch more pleasant to use (feel nice/smell nice).

Use varnish and paints according to manufacturer's directions. A professional finish is 90percent dependant on getting the surface smooth between each coat.

My tendency for maximum durability and best appearance would be to use a two potpolyurethane for the outside, round to the underside of the gunwale, and a varnish on theinterior. For rough use I would paint the whole thing.

Consider masking off some of the floor areas with masking tape including nice roundedcorners and using a non-skid finish.

Paint and Varnish Maintenance

Hose the boat out after use and mop up any water – empty the buoyancy tanks and leavethe covers off.

If leaving the hull outdoors for extended periods turn upside down on a couple of bricks ortimber blocks to avoid contact with the ground and so that air can get under it and watercan run off and put a tarp over the top to prevent UV damage.

If the epoxy coating is damaged put three coats epoxy (wet on wet) on the exposed woodand touch up with varnish or paint.

If varnish is continually exposed to sun it will need a light sand and two or three new coatevery year (less in Northern Australia). Two pot varnish will go for a couple of years underthe same conditions. Conventional paint can be given a fresh coat when it starts lookingshabby (3 years?). Two pot paints should be good for 5 years or more.

Keeping the boat out of the sun will reduce need for maintenance many fold.


OTHER PLANS – see www.storerboatplans.com

Goat Island Skiff - Modern Performance with Classic Appearance

Plans $100

15'8" x 5' x 130+lbs (hull) x 105sq ft

Eureka Canoe - Light, Pretty, Easy to build in Plywood

Plans $75

15'6" x 34" x 44lbs (6mm ply) Can be built down to 34lbs

MSD Rowboat - NEW - Easily driven pulling boat for one with occasional crew.

Plans $90

15'8" x 4' x 90lbs (estimate)

Handy Punt - Cartop, Stable Fishing Platform, Good Performance

Plans $80

11'6" x 4'2" x 110lbs (approx) 8 or to 15hp if you want to go REALLY fast.

Quick Canoe 155 – Builds in a few hours (5.5 is common), cheap to build.

Plans $30

First one took the builder 4 1/2 hours to get on the water. It has been designed to be as easy to

build as possible while keeping some of the qualities of a good paddling canoe - in particular the

ability to track.


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To be corrected to 5 inches (126.4mm)

ocean explorer ozracer sailboat boat plan for living inside

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