6 Sure-fireTips for Weed Control

Add ZEST with small shrubs

A Garden of RoomsOCTOBER 2015

IN THIS ISSUE

DESIGN & PLANTS 8 A Garden of Rooms16 Wildflower Series Callilepis laureola20 Add Zest with these Small Shrubs26 A Sumptuous Summer-time Feast30 Easy-care Bulbs33 Natural Pathway Edging36 Getting around those Hated Chores

ENVIRONMENT18 6 Sure-fire Tips for Weed Control34 Bathing Beauties

2

OCTOBER

MAGAZINE PRODUCTION:Editor: Anno TorrContact us: anno@theindigenousgardener.co.za Publisher: The Indigenous Gardener Contributing writers: Anno Torr, Jenny Dean All photos by Anno Torr, unless otherwise stated Other Photo credits: Andrea Abbott, Jenny Dean, Some image via Wikicommons, acknowledgement given; Graphic Design: digitlab and Anno Torr Disclaimers and Copyrights: Opinions expressed in this magazine do not reflect those of The Indigenous Gardener or any project related to The Indigenous Gardener. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, The Indigenous Gar-dener cannot be held liable for inadvertent mistakes. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written consent of the publisher.

CONTACT US: Editor: 8 anno@theindigenousgardener.co.za( 0726025610Advertising: 8 Veronica: info@theindigenousgardener.co.zaAccounts: 8 Hermes: info@theindigenousgardener.co.za

REGULARS 6 What’s In Flower 7 Monthly Task Card25 Good Reads

3333

Dear Readers,

The early morning sun beckons, and the first cup of coffee is in a quiet garden of soft light before the hubbub of a working day. It is the best time before a fire-hot sun rises.

Delicate, lacy flowers of Merwilla plumbea droop under the weight of black beetles jostling for space. The untidy pathway crossing the width of the garden is a maze of golden yellow Everlastings. The exuberant Helichrysum ruderale needs controlling, but only those smothering other plants are pulled; the platoons marching along the grass path are welcome!

The months of October and November provide opportunities to establish, clear, re-design and reassess before holidays and summer heat arrive – hopefully simultaneously. A heavy workload has kept Jenny away from her writing desk, but we have put together 38 pages of design inspiration, plant info, and gardening tasks.

Enjoy – and we’ll meet again in December.

October/ November 2015

4

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR: Please contact us with any article ideas, queries or technological problems with the reading/ downloading of the magazine, feedback and more...anno@theindigenousgardener.co.za

TO ADVERTISEPLEASE CONTACT Veronica at:info@theindigenousgardener.co.za

Anno

WE ARE A FREE PUBLICATION TO ALL READERS

Cover image: An African garden mix: Knipho-fia, Pychnostachys, Europys with Aloe arbores-cens in the foreground © Vic Bonsor

QUICK LINKS: Click here for access to our website

www.theindigenousgardener.co.za

FROM THE EDITORS DESK…

Winner of this beautiful Herb Box by Valley Wood Furnishings in Gillitts, is Keith Young of Westville.

--

Pooley’s Trees of eastern South Africa

Bring Nature Back to your Garden

Forest Plants in the forest and in the garden

Mountain Flowers of the Drakensberg

Wild Flowers of KwaZulu-Natal

By Charles & Julia Botha

By Elsa Pooley - Illustrated by Geoff NicholsBy Elsa PooleyBy Elsa Pooley

Pages - 625 : Size (mm) - 211x150x40Audience: Those interested in identifying and

growing indigenous plants, nature-based tourism, research and a reference to all the

trees of eastern South Africa.

Pages - 630 : Size (mm) - 211x150x40Audience: Those interested in identifying and growing indigenous plants, nature-based tourism, education and research. Most effective wild flower guide to the

summer rainfall areas of South Africa.

Pages - 320 : Size (mm) - 211x150x20Audience: Those interested in identifying and growing indigenous plants, nature-based tourism, education and research.Wild flowers, trees and ferns from the

foothills to the highest peaks of the Drakensberg and Lesotho.

Pages - 72 : Size (mm) - 245x170x3Audience: Nature based tourism, gardeners, schools

and universities. Aimed at the general public, a guide to forest plants with some butterflies,

birds & animals.

By Richard Boon

Pages - 320 : Size (mm) - 240x170x20Audience: Gardeners, landscapers, nurseries,

educational establishments, general nature lovers. A complete guide to indigenous gardening.

Bring Nature Back to your Garden – isiZulu edition

By Charles & Julia Botha

Pages - 260 : Size (mm) - 240x170x15Audience: isiZulu speaking persons interesting in gar-

dening and wildlife, educational establishments.

Bring Butterflies Back to your GardenBy Charles & Julia Botha

Pages - 260 : Size (mm) - 240x170x15Audience: Gardeners, landscapers, nurseries,

educational establishments, butterfly enthusiasts. Includes all known indigenous butterfly host plants.

Bring Nature Back to your Garden

By Charles & Julia Botha

Pages - 260 : Size (mm) - 240x170x15Audience: Gardeners, landscapers, nurseries,

educational establishments, general nature lovers. For indigenous gardening west of Port Elizabeth and

Bloemfontein including the Cape.

As the rains arrive and temperatures increase, we need to be vigilant and check plants for associated diseases. One way to prevent problems from occurring is to ensure there is a good air-flow around plants. Trim thick growth and clear matted growth at ground level. Cape gardeners should ensure soil is well mulch to prevent heat stress in these hot, dry months.

11

WHAT’S IN FLOWER?

TREES:Apodytes dimidiataErythrina lysistemon Kiggelaria africana Mimusops zeyheri Schotia brachypetala (1)Tabernaemontana ventricosaZizuphus mucronataPhoenix reclinata

SHRUBS: Buddleja salignaBurchellia bubalinaCarissa macrocarpaClerodendrum glabrumColeonema pulchellumDiospyros lycioides Dovyalis caffra

Ehretia rigidaFreylinia tropicaGrewia occidentalisJasminum multipartitum Mackaya bella (6)Ochna serrulata (8)Ocimum obovatum (= Becium) (2)Pavonia praemorsaPolygala myrtifoliaPolygala virgataProtea cynaroidesPsychotria capensisSearsia dentataStrelitzia reginaeTurraea floribundaXylotheca kraussiana (7)

PERENNIALS/GC/ BULBS/GRASSESArctotis speciesAristea eckloniiBulbine abyssinica/ B. narcissifoliaClivia miniataCrinum bulbispermumDelosperma herbeum Dierama pendulumDietes bicolorFelicia amelloides (4)Gazania sppGeranium incanumGerbera jamesoniiGlotyphyllum species (5)Impatiens hochstetteri Melinis grasses (8)Eragrostis grasses (9)

2

4 5 6

7 8 9

6

3

Feed/ Maintain: use organic fertilisers or compost• Feed all groundcovers and perennials• After the dry winter, give all shrubs a deep watering down to root level if spring rains

are late• In winter rainfall gardens, summer rainfall species will need watering • Fertilise cycads as new growth starts• Feed container plants

Prune/ Trim/ Deadhead: leave some flowers to set see• Prune climbers as they finish flowering• Your grassland patch can still be slashed now if not done last month • Old leaves on bulbs can still be retained to draw in the food.• If you haven’t divided perennials yet, do so, then fertilise and water it in• Dead-head and prune: groundcovers and perennials but allow some to set seed for

food, and to be used as nesting material• Trim winter-and spring- flowering shrubs: Pycnostachys, Salvia, Euryops, Felicia, Ger-

bera, Pelargoniums,Proteas, Pincushion as flowering ends. Be careful not to disturb insects, nesting birds and other wildlife

• Kniphofia praecox can be split if too overcrowded - imporves flowering

Propagate / Plant / Remove: • Seed collected through autumn and winter can now be sown• Plant out summer bulbs - Galtonia, Crocosmia, Sandersonia aurantiaca, Eucomis and

Arum lilies, Gladioli, Mervilla plumbea and Watsonia spp. • Take softwood cuttings of Pelargoniums• A good time to plant hedges where spring and summer rains are plentiful• A good time to plant perennials - Gazania, Dimorphotheca, Pelargonium, Agapanthus

and Diascia as well as our colourful vygies

Dierama species (1)Dietes bicolorWatsonia speciesGrewia occidentalisDovyalis caffraPavonia praemorsa

Erythrina speciesClivia miniata (3)Schotia brachypetalaArctotis speciesBulbine abyssinicaThunbergia atriplicifolia (2)

Anisodontea scabrosaFreylinia tropicaOchna serrulataBuddleja salignaBulbine frutescensScabiosa spp. (4)

WHAT’S INFLOWER

Pests and Diseases: our website has earth-friendly remedies to try• Spring rains bring out the slugs and snails - remove by hand and place on a bird

table as a snack.• LIlyborer is active - keep a watch on Crinums, Clivia, Agapanthus, Haemanthus and

Nerines• Rust on Geraniums

OCTOBER 2015 Mid- Spring

77

8

A GARDEN OF ROOMS

9

10

‘A game lodge feel’ was the spec given to landscaper Miles Steenhuisen of Mass Landscapes. A space in which suburbia disappears; no road views, no neighbouring rooftops.

The entrance then is not your traditional suburban design; stone-filled gabions gather you in towards beautifully con-structed stone pillars off which the gate hangs. Simple, and

rather stark, but it introduces natural, earthy elements that con-tinue throughout the garden – duzi gravel, small round stone, large rocks, wooden deck, aggregate stone paving – and plants. It is a garden of rooms, providing the hideaways, or bomas (meaning Kraal in Swahili), the owners wanted, but without the traditional lathe fence or dense bush that restricts the view of the African landscape. Rather, it is an impression of seclusion, each area designed without the substantial barriers that would have closed up this space. Through the gate a wildlife pond, set in the centre of a curving cobbled driveway, provides the entrance feature. Thorn trees evoke Bushveld country and game lodges and the species of choice here are two gleaming Fever trees, perfect water-side plants. The velvety lime green trunks support light canopies heavy with bird nests. Water bubbles from a central source that cascades into a few small ponds of various depths filled with Tilapia. Rocks and small stones flesh out the imitation rock structure creating nooks and crannies for plants and aquatic wildlife. Elegant stems of Cyperus textilis and Encephalartos natalensis are part of a dense cover that obscures the garden behind – Aloes, Leonotis leonurus, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Chlorophytum saundersiae, Crassula ovata, amongst others. From this vantage point, with brief glimpes of the garden beyond, options entice you to choose your path. A left turn leads you to a firepit boma beneath a tall Erythrina caffra, screened from the house and driveway by groups of shrubs. A floor of hard-wearing aggregate stone provides a secure surface for chairs and a safe fire -surround. The dappled mid-morning spring light here is soft and luminous, and in the heat of sum-mer, this shaded boma provides a cool retreat. “The cobbled edging here is dated”, suggests Miles, who’d prefer to let the gravel integrate seamlessly with the plant material. “Compare it to the new section close by; it is a lot more attractive without an edge to break the flow”.

As the driveway curls around behind the pond, you meet the heart of the family garden. It is a beautiful space. To the right, close to the pond, a recently installed walnut- brown deck and pool patio dominates. In time, the height of the Erythrina lysis-temon in the foreground will reduce the impact of the expanse of deck. A broken off limb from the original tree, planted directly into the ground, sprouts fresh spring leaves. This Coral tree species has outstanding form; elephant-like ears, a rough and fissured bark, and soft, furry flowers in bright red-orange. A slim-trunked Cussonia sphaerocephala grows alongside it. The access path from the deck is an intricate mosaic of square pavers, small round stones, dried wood features, and plants, with the neat, Silver Carpet groundcover, Dymondia margare-tae, knitting them together. The attention to detail is impressive, a myriad tiny points of interest tucked in everywhere. The mosaic provides a fascinating interplay between hard and soft, inorganic and living. Duzi gravel and repetition of plant species create a

Purple Lampranthus gallop over the entrance gabions. Dymondia margaretae and Aloe vanbalenii are in the foreground.

Aloes and Lampranthus species are repeated the other side of the entrance gate. Elegia tectorum echo the erect stems of Aloe ferox and Cussonia sphaerocephala.

11

Above: Luminous Fever Trees on either side of the entrance pond. Leucospermum cordifollium and Ar-totis species flower prolifically in the hot gravel surface. Below: The cobbled drive curls around the back of the pond, hiding the family’s entertainment room from the road. Opposite page bottom: a left turn takes you the long way around to the fire pit boma, the entrance marked by columns of Aloe ferox.

Purple Lampranthus gallop over the entrance gabions. Dymondia margaretae and Aloe vanbalenii are in the foreground.

Aloes and Lampranthus species are repeated the other side of the entrance gate. Elegia tectorum echo the erect stems of Aloe ferox and Cussonia sphaerocephala.

discernible flow through the various rooms, interrupted by changes in flooring that mark a change in room. There is little lawn in this section of the garden, and, although the spread of hard flooring appears at first glance to be extensive, plants cover much of the ground. Together with rocks, dried wood, and the gaps in the gum pole wall, they provide quick refuge for garden wildlife throughout the garden.

Raised beds (below centre) are held in check by a 3-tier gum pole wall and strategically placed rocks. It runs the length of the property boundary, interrupted only by the seating area in the

teen pad, and forms an attractive buffer between garden and perimeter. The added height allows for the plants to provide an adequate screen while still young.

Pathway interests: Above centre: A straight paved path is made more interesting by off-setting some single pavers. Neat plants soften and blur the hard lines between building and paving – Dracaena aletri-formis, Cat’s Tail Fern, Asparagus densiflorus ‘Meyersii’, and Dietes bicolor. A line of Cats Tail Fern helps to stretch the length

of the path, and defines the edge of lawn. Below centre: A zigzag line leading to a paved patio in the far corner encourages a slow meander rather than a hurried and purposeful walk. Below right: Change in floor cover suggests a doorway threshold into the teen pad.

Design: The use of circles is a strong theme in Miles’s design (top right), and here, circles of lawn divide the space outside the home office. Attractive bamboo panels provide extra screening

behind a layer of plants. Their strong colour defines the bounda-ries of this room, providing a contrasting backdrop to nature’s greens. Aloe ferox, A. arborescens, the odd light-canopied Indigofera jucunda, Freylinia tropica and yellow Honeysuckle create screening height in the narrow beds that flank the lawn. Cycads, Cotyledon orbiculata, Dietes bicolor, Aloe marlothii, A. van-balenii, Crassula ovata fill the layers between the taller species and groundcovers. Lampranthus, Delosperma, and Agapan-thus species complete the palette.

131313

1414

Above: The access path from the deck is an intricate mosaic of square pavers, small boulders, dried wood features, and plants, with the neat, silver-green groundcover, Dymondia marga-retae, or Silver Carpet, knitting them together. The attention to detail is impressive, a myriad tiny points of interest tucked in everywhere. The mosaic provides a fascinating interplay between hard and soft, inorganic and living. Insert: Tiny yellow flowers of the Silver Carpet.

Below left: A cobbled edging controls the change from a curved gravel path to the aggregate stone fire pit floor. The warm light

makes this a calm and cool spot on a warm day.

Below centre: A quick line from the house to the fire pit boma. In summer, (insert right) the tufts of Aristida junciformis that inter-rupt the line of pavers are full and soft. Centre top: dead wood attracts insects and provides a change in texture and colour.

Top right: The Cat’s Tail Fern and pots accentuate the strong lines of the design.

1414

Focal Points: Glazed pots stand out from the surrounding sand-coloured gravel, grey pavers, and green foliage. The still-red leaves of the Octopus Aloe, A. vanbalenii, drape over the lip, enhanced by the bright green paddle-shaped leaves of the Cotyledon and spiky fronds of the Asparagus. Delosperma rogersii hugs the base of both, keeping the eye moving the circle to where the same vygie shares space with small boulders.

Quirky interests: The owner cut rough shapes out of stone boul-ders to create these unusual ‘pots’. Rocks absorb heat on a sunny day and Gasteria species cope well while filling the space neatly. Bits of bark, old branches, and tree trunks be-come beautiful works of art, and insect’s homes, as they dry out. Miles has named them Lizard Hotels. They tell a story of nature’s cycles and the need for urban gardens to enable the recycling of nutrients back into the system. The garden is a poison-free zone. For the most part, the natural pest and predator balance maintains control, but for seasonal outbreaks, Miles recommends

a simple mixture of Sunlight liquid a water in a spray bottle. For Rust on aloes, he makes a paste of the same mixture to spread on the af-fected areas.

Although the design provides the owners with their game lodge bomas, it is a disciplined garden that suits the busy lifestyle of the fam-ily. Clever design fits a number of functional areas into a limited space, and materials, both plant and hardscaping, are easy to maintain. The majority of species do not overstep their boundaries requiring little work beyond mulching, feeding and clipping. Leonotis, Honeysuckle and Plectranthus need yearly pruning; grasses are cut back as spring starts; aloes are monitored for pests and diseases, and weeds are controlled. And with humans and nature sharing a tight space, there are plenty of shelters for wildlife should things get a little crowded. «

Contact Miles Steenhuisen: 082 468 3759www.masslandscapes.co.za

Below: Gasteria species tuck into a groove worn into the length of rock, and a cut-out section of stone.

16

This delightful daisy smiles at you from among the grasses and forbs putting on their spring show. Snow white flowers gleam against the dark purple-black centres that stand well above

the clumps of bright green leaves. The Ox-Eye Daisy is a perennial herb with a large woody tuber that sends out a relatively dense tuft of leafy stems up to 60 cm high; flowering begins in August after the fires, continuing until November. Flowers are large, about 60 mm in diameter. Leaves are 3-veined, either lanceolate or elliptic in shape, margins are smooth (entire), and leaf size decreases up the stem. Lower leaves up to 64 x 20 cm in size. A component of the grassland biome, Callilepis laureola covers an extensive range from the Eastern Cape, Free State, KwaZulu-Natal and Mpumalanga, growing in open areas, often on rocky sites, from sea-level to 1800 m. In the garden, its favoured situation would be among wild grasses and other grass-land flowers. The plant dies back to rootstock in winter and re-sprouts in spring.

NOTE: Tubers are poisonous!

The Ox-eye Daisy makes a lovely garden plant if you can source some seed. Geoff Nichols, via Plantzafrica website, recommends collect-ing dry seed heads, clean off the chaff and sow when fresh in a light seeding mix of equal quantities coarse river sand and compost. Cover lightly and place in full sun and good ventilation. Keep moist and plant into individual containers at 6-8 weeks. Not to be confused with Dimorphotheca nudicaulis, that has the same common names. «

Callilepis laureolaOx-eye Daisy or Wildemagriet

Wildflower Series

17

Ox-Eye Daisy

18

Sure-fire Tips for Weed ControlA perennial problem, ridding a garden of weeds takes up

more time than all other garden chores! Gardeners know the perils of allowing plants to reach seeding stage, and

luckily, there are a few methods that can help to reduce time spent weeding.

Firstly, consider the following: plants that colonise disturbed and/ or bare ground, labelled by gardeners’ as weeds, act like a Band-Aid helping to heal and protect the soil. Their foliage provides shade against the drying sun, stabilises soil and reduces the loss of top soil via wind and rain. It softens rainfall that would otherwise compact the ground keeping it friable so that moisture is able to penetrate and provides cover for insects and flowers for pollinators. Bare soil is anathema and natural systems will try to fill the empty space and protect the ground. In a garden, better that the earth is covered with indigenous foliage and mulch than creating an opportunity for unwanted weeds. Secondly, the seeds of many species of weed remain viable in their dormant state for years and it is unlikely that we will run out

of weeds – ever!

Keep them in the darkkeeping the soil as undisturbed as possible prevents dormant weed seeds from germinating. All seeds need light to germinate. Every inch of soil will contain seeds but only those in the upper few centimetres receive sufficient light to sprout. So the no-dig method is a boon. Titivating the soil brings hidden seeds into the light where the slightest drop of moisture encourages root growth. Keep soils covered with foliage and a thick layer of

1

6

1818

mulch, and pull weeds out when small, as gently as possible to prevent soil disturbance. There are a couple of ways to do this: use your hand to press the soil down around the stem as you tug it out; use a sharp knife to cut through the roots. This is particularly effective for seeds growing in both beds and the lawn as it cuts off their food supply leaving the soil undisturbed and

weed seeds in the layers ‘ where the sun don’t shine’.

Cut of their headsSeeds that escape a gardener’s eagle eye for long enough to flower and/ or seed need immediate action; cut off their heads! In the flowering stage, this will prevent them from forming seeds; in their seeding stage, by capturing the seeds and preventing further heads from forming, you could prevent an explosion of seeds being distributed by wind or animal. This can end seed formation of annual weeds; perennial weeds are forced to use up energy in producing further flowering stems – that can then be controlled by you – and exhausts the plant. Just pulling off the leaves will stop it from photosynthesizing and producing food for

growth.

Plant denselyWeed growth is especially prevalent in newly planted beds with gaps between young plants. Many gardeners and landscapers keep costs down by using small plants spaced far apart, and covering between them with a thin layer of mulch, but this increases the time and pennies spent on erradicating weeds. In mature beds, groundcovers die off in places, opening up the soil to the light, and perennials and shrubs are pruned back or reach the end of their life -span. So gaps are continually opening up and the vigilant gardener needs to step in quickly with new plants and mulch until the ground is protected once again by foliage. Dense planting effectively chocks out weeds by shading the soil and competing with them for sunlight, nutrients and water. Recommended spacing gives plants enough room to grow to their expected size while barely touching their neighbours, but you can safely decrease this without negatively affecting a plants’ health. Exceptions are plants prone to fungal diseases; sufficient spacing allows air flow that helps to reduce

this problem.

Weed at the right time– and with the right tools. Moist soils are soft and loose, and dry soils are commonly hard and compacted. It stands to reason then that the best time to pull out weeds after a good rainfall. A fishtail weeder is great to lever up plants with stubborn tap roots (dandelions come to mind). For those that require a bit of a twist and tug, the ordinary table fork is an excellent addition to your tool bag. Small weeds too young to have formed strong roots can simply be pulled free of the soil – but remember to take note of point 1! If rain is a long way off, rather than turning on the tap to create easy-weeding conditions, use a knife to slice off the stem just below the surface. Apply a generous mulch layer to

limit new growth.

Kill with heatAll plant material, pruned pieces, fallen leaves and weeds, carry nutrients that should be recycled back into the soil. But be wary of adding all unwanted plants to the compost heap; don’t add any weeds pulled out with seed heads and/ or roots still attached. If your compost pile does not reach high enough temperatures, roots and seeds remain viable and will germinate quickly the minute they are given light and moisture – along

with a ready-made food source of compost. I prefer to put these plants in black rubbish bags; add a little moisture and place in the full sun for a couple of days should kill them off. They can now be mixed into the compost heap or, for gardeners who do not go the compost heap route, mixed with fallen leaves and

other pruned material and spread beneath shrubs.

Mulch, mulch, mulchMulch smothers unwanted plant growth and deprives the lurking seeds of the light needed to germinate. Thick layers of organic mulch, like leaf litter and partially decomposed compost, are also home to numerous insects that will feast on the unwanted seeds. These attract insectivorous birds – they too will feed on seeds.

Look too at the smothering ability of your mulch. A thin cover of any material may not block out sufficient light, and those made up of large pieces form too loose a blanket. Big chunky bark, for instance, will let quite a bit of light through to soil level. Large bark pieces can also be rearranged by animals and rainfall. Whatever you use make sure to lay it at least 5 cm thick, and replenish organic material frequently as it is mixed into the soil by a variety of organisms as it breaks down. A word about using gravel as mulch: It is an excellent germination medium. A weed guard fabric will limit weed growth from below, but seeds of any plant, weed or wildflower, blown in by the wind or dropped by birds, geminate readily on top of the stones. Run a rake lightly back and forth across the surface to dislodge rooting seeds. «

Opposite page from top left: Press down firmly before tugging out weeds to reduce soil disturbance; cut heads of weeds before they set seed; Plant densely to chocks weed growth; kill with heat by placing weeds in a hot compost heap; Above: Mulch soils thickly

2

3

4

5

6

191919

Add ZEST with these Small Shrubs

1© Molteno via Wiki Commons

21

Large shrubs and trees provide a garden with the struc-ture and backdrop against which the rest of the garden performs. Scalled down, smaller shrubs fill a similar

role within a bed. Combined with perennials, groundcov-ers, grasses and bulbs they help to create a layered affect, providing form and texture once flowers are over. As long as you fit shrub size to available space, these beauties need little attention beyond the annual prune, and some, not even that.

1. Muraltia spinosa (=Nylandtia) - Tortoise Berry. 1 x 1. A favorite foraging plant for the well-loved ‘slow but steady’ animal of story-telling legend, this small shrub is a lovely filler in fynbos gardens. Preferring coastal conditions along the Eastern, Northern Cape and Western Cape it none-theless thrives in most situations throughout the country. Flowering displays are profuse and from April to October, tiny flowers turn this stiff, spikey shrub into a pink-purple flowering ball! Muraltia’s natural habitats suggest a prefer-ence for sandy, free-draining, even rocky soils. Planted in full sun, the Tortoise Berry is hardy and drought tolerant, coping well with a broad range of temperatures. Tortoise food in the form of ripe red fleshy berries follow throughout summer, loved too by birds and people. It does well in rockeries, on stoney or sandy slopes, or in the front to mid-section of a flowering border or screen. The growth habit – stiff, arching stems – makes a useful contrast to plants with soft and feathery foliage.

2. Lessertia frutescens: 1- 1.5 m x 1 m. The Can-cer Bush(though I do prefer to use Scarlet Balloon Pea) is a beautiful shrub of eye-catching contrasts; orange to bright red flowers and silver-green foliage. A single shrub has a fairly loose structure so if a fuller screen is required, plant a few close together. Flowers cover the bush from September to December attracting sunbirds to the garden. Bladder-like, papery inflated seed pods following the flowers, keeping wildlife visiting for an extended period. The Cancer Bush is a short-lived shrub but seeds itself easily and grows fast, so new seedlings will readily fill the space when the mature plant dies. Unfussy and easy to cultivate, this tough shrub thrives in both summer and winter rainfall regions. It is a useful plant to rapidly screen or fill a gap while the slow-growing, permanent shrubs mature.

3. Leucospermum oleifolium: 1 m x 1.2 m. Overberg Pincushion. This beautiful and rewarding member of the Protea family forms a neat, rounded shrub with grey, velvet-like leaves and clusters of red and yellow flowers at branch ends. Flow-ering profusely from August through to the New Year, new flowers are a pale yellow that as they age, turn orange and then bright red. With new flowerheads opening continuously through the season, the plant is covered with with bristly heads of all three colours. The nectar rich flowers attract in-sects, many bird pollinators and the Scarab beetles, another important pollinator of this particular Protea. Plant in full

2121212121

CAPE GARDENS

2121

2

3

45

© Winfried Bruenken via Wiki Commons

© Andrew Massyn via Wiki Commons

sun, in soils that drain well, and mulch thickly to keep moisture in the soils and prevent any root interfence which all proteas dis-like. Water regularly until well established.

4. Leucospermum cordifolium: Pincushion: 1.5 m x 1.5 m. This much loved shrub is a glorious sight in gardens around the country from July to December. The original species comes in shades of orange to red, with many cultivars available around the world in variations of these colours, including yellow. Flowers are borne in clusters at the ends of long, fairly straight branches perfect for the vase. Preferring acid soils this shrub grows successfully in most parts of the country, but they last only eight to ten years. Leucospermums are susceptible to the fungal disease, Phytophthroa cinnamomeum, that kills the plant, but are otherwise hardy garden plants.

5. Polygala fruticosa: 2 x 2. The beauty of the Heart-leaved Polygala is matched by a generous nature. Free-flowering for much of the year, from August to May, it requires minimal upkeep; a light nip and tuck will keep it fresh through the sea-son. It does best in full sun as too much shade results in woody growth and sparse foliage that tends to fall open at the centre. Soil must drain well, feed with compost, mulch generously, and this medium-sized shrub will reward you year-round. The small Polygala does not enjoy any fiddling around the roots and mulch will help to prevent weed growth that could interfer with the roots when pulled out. Kirstenbosch Gardens has produced a smaller variety of this species; P. fruticosa ‘Southern Shores’, grows to a meter high and has a neat, rounded form. It copes well with salty winds and is an excellent candidate for coastal gardens.

Pelargonium species: evergreen perennials indigenous to South-ern Africa, and are drought and heat tolerant, but can tolerate only minor frosts.

6. Pelargonium cucullatum: Tree Pelargonium often grows to 2 m high in ideal conditions, this most attractive Pelargonium is an excellent choice to fill a large gap in the liv-ing fence. Flowers are large and a vibrant pink; all 5 petals are streaked with a few dark purple veins – the long flowering sea-son makes this shrub a stunning and worthwhile addition to all Cape gardens. Leaves are a soft green, round to kidney-shaped.

7. P. salmoneum is an Eastern Cape endemic. A 1m multistemmed shrub with fleshy leaves and umbels of bright salmon pink flowers in Spring to Summer. Handsome Pelargoni-um with large soft salmon flowers for most of the year. Requires a sandy well drained medium and sunny or dry, semi shade position. Remove dead and diseased leaves and flowers as often as possible for optimum health and feed with slow release 3:1:5 or organic fertilizer in autumn and spring for lush growth and flowers.

8. Salvia africana- caerulea: Blue Sage: 1.2 x 1.5 m. Another outstanding grey-leaved shrub with pale blue to white flowers and scented foliage, the Blue Sage does well in windy, coastal and hot, inland gardens. This multi-stemmed shrub blooms from late winter to late summer. Though growing in fynbos, it performs well around the country if planted in full sun and freely-draining soils – roots must not get water logged.

2222

6

7

8

© Michael Wolf via Wiki Commons

© Exotic Plants

2222

23

Neat, small to medium in size (1.2 – 2 m, area dependent), it is drought and frost hardy. An excellent shrub to support the urban bee population.

9. Podalyria sericea: Satin Bush. Size: 1 x 1. Tiny, silky hairs cover the grey leaves giving them a silvery sheen, hence the common name. It forms a neat, rounded shrub of moder-ate growth rate that needs little attention once established; in summer rainfall gardens ensure soils are acidic and water well through autumn and winter. Pale mauve- pink flowers with a magenta throat, tuck into the leaves along the stems from May to August, followed by unusual inflated pods from October to January. Plant in full sun, in well-drained acid soils. Grey foli-age provides a lovely contrast to the universal shades of green, and the Satin Bush would look stunning alongside Anisodontea scabrosa.

10. Anisodontea scabrosa: Pink Mallow: Between 1.5 and 1.8 m x 1.2 m. Bright pink Hibiscus-like flowers cover this shrub in spring and summer, and off and on year-round. It has a rather short lifespan, but the beautiful flower displays and speed of growth makes it worth- while and quick to replace. Plant in full sun where the soil drains well, and trimming lightly through the year keeps foliage neat and bushy. As with all heavy flowering plants, feed regularly. This lovely shrub grows well in both Western and Eastern Cape coastal conditions and inland frosty gardens, but does not in gardens of the humid Eastern KZN Coast. Prune back by a third in autumn.«10

9

24

OUR AIM

The Flora & Fauna Publications Trust was established to raise sponsorship for the publication of popular, authoritative and

affordable books on the indigenous plants of the Eastern Region of South Africa, with the object of stimulating greater awareness of our

rich and unique Flora and Fauna and the undeniably integral relationship of one to the other.

To view and/or purchase the most informative Field Guides and nature books, visit our website.

www.floratrust.co.za

To help you keep South Africa as pure as nature intended

Jenny Dean Wildflowers

We create indigenous wildlife-friendly gardens that are peaceful, waterwise sanctuaries filled with colour.

• Residential gardens big and small • Housing developments/ Office parks• Structured to suit needs and budget• Hourly consultations

PLANT NURSERY CONSULTATIONSLANDSCAPINGCONTACT: Jenny Dean | 082 4694686 | jennydeanwildflowers@gmail.com

A6 flyer aloe xylotheca.indd 3 2015/03/26 10:38:27 AM

Sunday 31 January

2016

ADVANCE BOOKINGS ONLY DUE TO LIMITED TRANSPORT!

SANI PASS (and Lesotho!) WILD FLOWER WALK Sunday 31 January 2016

LAST CHANCE? The upgrading of Sani Pass has finally been approved, despite our fight against the idea of a hard surface, and work is likely to start soon. This may be your last opportunity to walk to Pass before road works take over!

Add a short walk through the botanical wonderland of the Lesotho plateau to your exciting day on the Sani Pass!

Cost: R400 per person includes: Transport up Sani Pass; 90 minutes walking around Sani Top exploring different flowers in a different botanical niche accompanying botanical experts; Transport back from SA border post to Giant’s Cup Café from 3pm onwards (not earlier); GOOD VALUE! NOTE that a day tour with a tour operator in Underberg now costs R720pp! YOU NEED TO BRING: PASSPORT essential! You will be exiting SA at an official border and crossing into Lesotho. Also: hiking boots; lunch; lots of water to drink; hiking stick; hat; warm clothing; raingear. Flower books/binoculars/cameras optional

Meet 06h30 sharp at the Giant’s Cup Cafe, 10.5km down the (tarred) SANI PASS ROAD on the left hand side. Sales (before and/or after the walk): Hats; bottled water; snacks; Elsa Pooley wild flower field guide books; Sani Pass flowers, mammals, birds and reptiles posters; WESSA publications; local books and maps; indigenous plant species; Beth Fey cards; work by local artists BOOKINGS: for the walk – contact Sani Lodge Backpackers 033 7020330 / 0839873071 OR email info@sanilodge.co.za Accommodation: for the night before is also available at Sani Lodge Backpackers, on the same property as the Giant’s Cup Café (www.sanilodge.co.za)

25

I bought this at The Witness Garden Show last month and I love it! Small enough to tuck alongside the potting table when not in use, this sturdy but light-weight and attractive multi-purpose cart makes quick work of many gardening tasks. Collect a week’s leaf-fall from the patio, use it to carry bags of compost or potting soil, or keep hand tools, water bottle and other gardening nick-knacks clean, safe and easy-to-find! Line it with a black bag to collects weeds and prunings. I have even used it as a ‘bucket’ of water in which to soak plants before planting out. Easy to pull along with one hand, it is the perfect cart for those who do light gardening but battle to use a heavy wheelbarrow. Made from recycled materials.

Available at most hardware stores around the country. 50 litre carrying capacity.

Waterwise gardening need not mean planting a garden of gravel and succulents. In this invaluable guide for South African garden-ers, Ernst van Jaarsveld explains how installing gardens natural to your area will lower your water bill, save time in the garden, and benefit the environment. The secret to waterwise gardening, he argues, is to know what vegetation region we live in and to choose plant species suited to that region.

This book is aimed at gardeners wanting to follow sustainable principles, whether creating a new garden or convert and exist-ing one. Content covers general horticultural practises; part two examines our nine botanical biomes, or vegetation regions: Fyn-bos, Strandveld-fynbos and Succulent Karoo for the winter rainfall areas; Highveld, Bushveld, Thicket, Karoo, forests and coastal belt for the summer rainfall regions, and the Namib and adja-cent desert areas. There is also a chapter on Indigenous indoor plants. Plant lists are given for each region with notes on plant form, height and growth rate, flower colour, months in flower and whether they prefer sun or shade.

Waterwise Gardening in South Africa and NamibiaErnst van Jaarsveld

GOOD READS

Favourite buy of the monthEasy Go Breeze - by Keter

ISBN: 9781770072176 Format: Hardcover Release Date: September 2010 Pages: 368 Publisher: www.randomstruik.co.za

2525

26

A Sumptuous Summer-time Feast

Selago sp. and Hypoxis hemerocallidea

27

Take a small to medium sized shrub of pastel blue; add a smidgen of soft mauve wildflower, and a dash of orange or yellow -spiced groundcover. Mix together to create a sump-

tuous summer-time feast.

Salvia africana- caerulea is in full bloom, the grey-green leaves a subtle backdrop to the lovely blue and white flowers. It fits neatly into the mid to back section of a garden bed, a mature size of 1.2 – 1.5 m x 1m. Plant a few close together for impact. Judicious pruning through the year keeps foliage bushy from ground up. Drift a soft mauve Selago (Bitterbush species) in front; try S. glomerata (Blouaarbossie), with needle-like textured leaves and small dollops of pale mauve. Stems are thin and the entire plant seems to move with the wind. A 30 – 80 cm high perennial for full sun, S. glomerata has a rather sprawling growth habit that needs pruning to keep neat. Selago canes-cens is endemic to the Western Cape but has similar growth habits and requirements.

A choice now awaits the gardener - burnt orange Arctotis at their feet? Perhaps the classic yellow/ purple/ blue combination calls to you.

The spicy orange Arctotis arctotoides groundcover needs a bit of spreading room get the full effect of the beautiful turmeric/ co-riander coloured flowers set above felt-like grey leaves. As with the Salvia, light pruning through the flowering season prevents the centre from becoming woody and prolongs the flowering season. The Arctotis will need replacing after 2 – 3 years. For a more unusual combination add clumps of yellow flowering African Potato, Hypoxis hemerocallidea. Bright yellow star-shaped flowers dance on thin stems above long-tapering leaves;

2727272727

Arctotis arctotoides

Salvia africana- caerulea

28

this grassland forb is seasonal, leaf and flower disappearing in winter, but the spring and summer show is worth the wait. Flowers do close in the afternoon though for those who prefer a day-long show. Drought tolerant and frost hardy, it is a tough and beautiful garden plant. Height: 40 cm.The well-known Gazania rigens var. uniflora offers sunny faces of egg-yolk yellow held on short stalks above furry grey leaves. This is a delightful groundcover, easy to grow, drought and frost hardy, and a lovely choice at the feet of the Salvia and Selago. Given the space to spread it will act as the draw card to this combination. Height: 40 cm. Provincial distribution: Eastern Cape, KwaZulu-Natal, And Western Cape.

For the flora specialist able to source lesser-known plants, try a variety of grassland forbs. Many Helichrysum species will mix beautifully at a similar height as the Selago. Coastal gardeners can try H. longifolium (try Jenny Dean’s Wildflower Nursery in Assegai or Izinyoni Nursery at Crocworld in Scottburgh). Closely related to H. cephaloideum, open flowerheads are composed of many tiny golden yellow flowers and form quite a loose effect above soft grey-green leaves. Cotula sericea, Silky Cotula or Buttons, is a delightful, herbaceous perennial from the winter rainfall region. Little yel-low buttons bounce above lacy light grey-green leaves forming a silky yellow carpet from spring to early summer, and often intermittently through the year. While it can grow to 40 cm high, it commonly has a low spreading growth form. The yellow But-tons grows fast and can become rather woody at the base after a couple of years. They root readily though, where stems touch the ground, providing many fresh plants for filling any gaps. Silky Cotula needs regular watering and feeding to grow and flower well. Wanting a wilder look? Add any of the seasonal wild grasses; Eragrostis capensis (Heart -seed love grass or Hartjiesgras) has wheat-coloured seed heads above low-growing tufts of slender green leaves. It prefers some moisture, though. A more drought-hardy grass is the glorious red/purple flowering Melinis nerviglu-mis, Bristle-leaved red top. It does get quite untidy as the season progresses, but it shouldn’t overpower the wildflowers. Plant in a drift rather than dotting them amongst the flowers; the fine-textured flowers make a great impact in groups, and it will be easier to cut back to ground level at the end of winter. «

Selago and Helichrysum longifolium intermingle

Cotula sericea

29

Eragrostis capensis Melinis nerviglumis

Gazania rigens var. uniflora

Flowers of Helichrysum longifolium

292929

Above: Pavonia praemorsa; Below: Monarch caterpillar on Milkweed ball. Left: Double-collared sunbird on Leono-tus intermedia. Images Vic Bonsor. Bottom image © Vic Bonsor

Plant a selection of easy-care, pamper-free bulbs for a re-warding display that will look good for years to come. The Albuca and Ledebouria species are happiest with most

of the swollen bulb sitting above ground, anchored by the roots, with the outer scales visible. They require no special pampering other than some protection in areas where mole rats are numerous.

Three Albuca species attracted the attention of many gardeners at the recent Witness Garden Show in Pietermaritzburg.

Albuca batteniana: This Albuca species is an evergreen bulb growing on moist cliffs on the Eastern Cape coast, with an unusual growth habit. Flowers open along an almost horizontally reclining stem, typically white with a pale green stripe, and only the outer parts open. Flowering is from September to December. Mature plants form large clumps with most of the swollen bulb growing above ground with the dry outer scales covering the bulb clearly visible. Long, slender, tapering leaves grow between 40 and 60 cm, and flowering stalk can extend up to a metre. Position in full sun and mass plant this species for best effect. This coastal species is frost sensitive.

Albuca nelsonii: Nelson’s Albuca is a large evergreen bulb, between 80 cm – 1 m in flower that eventually forms large clumps. Fast growing, the Albuca is unfussy about soil type, is water-wise and thrives in both sun and shade, though in my garden it seems to flower better in a sunny situation. The bright green soft and strap-

3030

Easy-care Bulbs

Albuca nelsonii

Albuca batteniana

shaped leaves forming an attractive cover year round. Flowers resemble those of A. batteniana but grow on erect stems from September to November with many flower stalks growing from one leaf clump. This is a summer rainfall species found in grassland and on coastal cliffs, in partial shade, from KZN to the Eastern Cape at altitudes from 30 – 170 m. It is not frost hardy. Mole rats are rather partial to Albuca bulbs, but, luckily, I find the Lily borer caterpillar tends to leave them alone.

Albuca bracteata (= Ornithogalum longibracteatum) Pregnant Onion. Resembling the flowers of the Chincherinchee family, they carry the familiar central green strip of many in the Albuca genus. Spring flowers are supported by sturdy stems that often grow to 1.5 m high. Inflorescence taper to an narrow droop-ing tip with 6 petalled flowers opening at intervals. Growing on shady slopes, forest margins and woodland, it is a wide-spread species from the Southeastern Cape, to KZN and the foothills of the Drakensburg, and up into East Africa. Long, thick flower stems grow from the neck of the bulb and flowers stand 1,5 m high above strap-like leaves. Plant with most of the bulb resting on the soil surface.

31

Albuca nelsonii

A. bracteata

Papery scales cover the surface of the A. bracteata bulbs

Dried seed heads of Albuca bracteata

Albuca nelsonii

Albuca batteniana

313131

Ornithogalum juncifolium: Grass-leaved Chincherinchee. juncifolium – leaves like rushes. This is a favourite plant in my garden dressing the front of a grassy bed. Narrow leaves reach 20 cm and mature plants form thick grass-like clumps of bright green. Flowers are small, 10 – 20 mm in diameter, on short stalks. They are white and star-like, with a central green stripe. Flowering is from September to February. Occurring in damp grasslands and on cliffs, from the southeastern Cape to Mpumalanga, so plant it in a damp, sunny area of the garden, or in normal soil where it receives good rains.

Ledebouria species: Possibly L. maxima (=Resnova maxima; = Drimiopsis maxima) Found in grassland among rocks in the Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal. It grows to 40 cm. The small bulbs are slightly flattened at the top, and leaves narrow gradually to the base, ranging in size from 80-150 x 30-50 mm. Inflorescens are long and slim, with individual flowers hang off short, thin stems alongits length. They are greyish, striped pink, white, green or brown from September to December. This is a good garden and container plant for shade.

Ledebouria floribunda: A delightful, abundantly flowering plant for full, light to partial shade, bright green leaves are glossy with many dark blotches. These are long and tapering, ranging in size from 200-35- x 40-50 mm and green to purple at the base. Flowers are tiny forming on fairly long inflorescence, green to pink with a green keel and purple/ white stamens. Scented flowers cover the plant from October through to January. In nature this species grows in seasonally damp places but plants do very well in ordinary garden soil and are successful container plants. «

32

Ornithogalum juncifolium

Ledebouria maxima

Ledebouria floribunda

Ledebouria maxima

Ledebouria floribunda

33

Pathway edges separate path material, soil and plants, helping to keep each within its space, and provide well-defined lines for those wanting a finished look. These

beautiful lengths of Strelitzia nicolai trunk have a beautiful pol-ished look, lovely texture, and their slight curve makes them an excellent choice for meandering paths. Strelitzia nicolai is a fast growing large shrub with a spreading habit, and outside branches often need to be removed to control its spread.

These nature-grown edging logs have many advantages: • They are long -lasting as they are dense and fibrous• Being heavy they are not easily moved out of position• Have lovely colour, texture and patterns• Work well in informal designs• You can choose where to cut the lengths to get the perfect

degree of bend• They provide habitats for garden decomposers and will

enrich the soil as they gradually decompose

Monitor the logs for decomposition; when well advanced, remove the log, place in the compost heap to complete the process and recycle the nutrients, and replace with a new piece.

If a higher edge is needed, place two or three on top of each other and secure in place with vertical pins. Bear in mind that the logs are heavy, so the pins need to be well secured.«

Natural Pathway Edging

34

BATHING BEAUTIESAs the season heats up garden birds will be on the look-out for a source of clean water for drinking and bathing. When it comes to bird baths one size does not fit all, and bird size and natural behaviour influences the style various species favour.

Traditional pedestal baths tucked close to protective cover provides form smaller species; at mid-height they can scan the area for threats, and the adjacent cover gives them quick refuge. Small species prefer shallow basin of between 2.5 and 3.5 cm deep; water up to 5.5 cm deep will have larger species splashing about.

Ground-based baths entice ground-foraging birds as they scratch about among the fallen leaves, like the shy robins and thrushes. Anything less than 50 cm in diameter provides enough space for a single large bird (a dove for instance), two or three robin-sized birds, or a small group of mannikins and white-eyes. Of course, if it feels safe enough, a large Turaco is quite willing to spoil the pool party for the littlies – but all are welcome in this garden, and the small birds can wait for space in the relative safety of adjacent shrubs.

A textured surface gives bird claws some traction, much like the bark of a tree; clay and cement being the most commonly used material. This old metal bowl, though, is proving popular with small birds and insects. Placed at an angle thin layers of sand provides a beach for small creatures and secure footing with a wide enough landing area for a comfortable bathe. Containers work best if the lip is thick enough for claws to grip if there is no flat standing room.

Provide drinking and bathing water in Summer’s heat

Greater Double-collared Sunbird drinks from a pedestal bird bath © Andrea Abbott

A weaver appreciates the running water in this wildlife pond

3434

353535

Birds love moving water, either dripping from the top level down, a light spray fountain or a gently bubbling spring. Think of how much a multi – species party enjoys the water sprinkler on a hot day.

A few of these 3-tier water fountains in Jenny’s garden bring in the sunbirds among many. Moving water prevents algae bloom, keeping water clean and surfaces slip-free. A few copper-plated coins thrown into the water is said to keep the water cleaner for longer although a through scrub of the container every few weeks is necessary. I have yet to try this little trick, but it is worth a try.

Birds bathe and drink from the same source, so clean the bird bath frequently to prevent any diseases spreading. Refresh the water every couple of days; if possible, empty the container of the old water before re-filling rather than simply adding to it. I find a jet spray from the garden hosepipe cuts any slimy growth. Bird baths in full sun heat up water quickly, increasing evaporation and encouraging algae growth; a shady position limits this problem, but you will need to keep the water free of leaf fall. When a thorough clean is needed, use a weak chlorine/ water mix (one part chlorine to 9 parts water) and scrub the basin and lip surface with a wire brush. Rinse several times with running water. «

35Tall stones bird baths beneath a trees, surrounded by shrubs

Even a Turaco will make use of a basin of water on a hot day, no matter how small © Andrea Abbott

A water fountain providing tumbling water amidst dense foliage is popular with birds.

Tucked close to a group of plants this small grinding stone will be used by ground foraging birds

A 2013 poll conducted among homeowners in the UK pitched common gardening chores against each other in the search for the most hated one of all. Number one on the list? Raking up leaves!

Maintenance-free, water-wise, easy-care; these phrases are all variations on a theme – how to design a garden that requires little upkeep! Frequently, the end result is a

‘plastic’ garden with a narrow range of commonly used species, a regimented time-table of spraying and feeding, and a garden maintenance team that sweeps through an hour a week, blow-ing and cutting everything in sight. We work our gardens using decades- old techniques that were based on an entirely different set of knowledge and needs; but, with new awareness, must come new methods. A maintenance -free garden? Strive for a self-sustaining one instead!

So, in order from most to least hated, we have looked for envi-ronmentally friendly ways to reduce the work load.

Raking up leaves. Raking up leaves anywhere other than off hard surfaces is a waste of time. It doesn’t take long for leaves trampled underfoot to break down and disappear into the grass, and don’t you love kicking through fallen leaves? Heavy seasonal leaf fall though should be removed as it can prevent light and moisture reaching the leaves. Those that fall on flowerbeds act as living mulch and really ought to be left there. This is what creates the rich humus in natural woodlands and forests, building up the habitats that attract the nunu’s and birds that eat garden pests!

General tidying. Edge your beds: Edging garden beds makes it easier to control the grass stolons that creep so quickly in-between the plants. Use your imagina-tion and try wild grasses, thick matting groundcovers, natural

gravel and the odd rock - anything but those little channels and raised mounds to create a gap between the beds and the lawn! Whatever you choose, please do not use a weed eater to trim the grass. Communities of little creatures like Chameleons are killed in this way!

Leave dead wood. While the gardeners of old kept their areas clear of ‘rotten’ wood for fear it brought in garden pests, it is a vital component of all eco-systems. It is where decomposers and insect predators live that rid the world of dead and decaying materials, and keep the pest population in balance. So, unless branches pose a danger to life and property, or if it is diseased, retain as much dead wood as you can.

Plant long- flowering perennials and groundcovers rather than exotic annuals. These are labour intensive as they complete their lifecycles in one season, needing frequent watering, feeding and dead heading. Plant a diverse mix of indigenous species for seasonal punch. See last month’s Spring Barrow Bouquet for inspiration.

Weeding.We’ve covered this in the article on page 18.

Pruning. Do you spend a lot of time trimming or cutting back shrubs that have outgrown their space? To limit your pruning chores to only seasonal requirements, make sure you plant the right sized shrub for your available space, especially in areas that are difficult to access, like steep banks. If this is already a problem, consider getting rid of the problem shrub and replacing it with

36

Getting around those hated chores!

3737

a more size-suitable species. Not only is frequent pruning time consuming, but it disturbs, and can harm, visiting wildlife.

Use the correct size plant for the area: When choosing species, not taking the width of a plant into ac-count can result in a tangled mess without shape or form, that requires trimming monthly! Allowing plants to mingle without rigidly enforc their boundaries can produce charming combina-tions, but sooner or later, one will dominate the space. Also, look at a plant’s growth habit; a rampant or vigorous ground-cover, commonly one that roots where growing stems touch the ground, is a bad choice for a small space – a narrow bed or rockery, for example. In these areas, rather choose plants with a clumping rather than a spreading form.

Tired of trimming hedges? Plant an informal wildlife screen instead. Yes, as simple as that!

Mowing the lawn.Gardens need lawn where children and pets play, and grass is effective in slowing runoff from sloping ground, but we usu-ally have far more than we need. Too much grass also creates a sterile environment that takes away potential habitats so needed in our cities. Save time by reducing the size of this area and plant locally indigenous lawn species; their water needs will coincide with your regions rain season and shouldn’t need extra watering. The small section of lawn can now be frequently mown, preferably on a high level setting - longer grass shades the roots, making it more drought- hardy. To reduce weed growth, keep it in good condition with an annual spread of com-post and aerate with a fork if necessary, to prevent compaction.

Watering; yes, this was on the list of hated chores, but keep that hose pipe tucked up. If you choose plants local to your area, and water-wise species out of area, a natural water regime (a.k.a. your regions’ rainfall cycle) will be sufficient. Local species are adapted to cope with the odd dry spell dur-ing the rainy season, so don’t feel tempted to water; rather wait to see how well they fare. Plants require a dormant phase to gather food and energy for the growing season, and energetic and healthy plants are better equipped to fight off diseases and insect attacks than pampered specimens.

Reduce the size of hard landscaping. Expanses of paving create small heat islands, increasing water evaporation from plants and soils; so use sun-loving, water-wise

species here as they can cope with the reflective heat. Non-porous surfaces prevent rainwater from seeping into the ground limiting its availability to plants. Limit paving to essential areas; space to fit an outside table and chairs comfortably, and heavy foot traffic areas, for example. Replace the rest with easy- care groundcovers and porous surface materials like gravel and bark mulch. While weeds germinate very successfully in gravel, the loose structure makes new seedlings fairly easy to dislodge. Direct the runoff from paving into beds and onto the lawn which should also reduce the need for watering.

Mulch. A thick mulch layer helps soils to retain moisture, smothers weed growth, and blocks the light essential to seed germination. Providing a thick layer of at least 5 cm and top it up a couple of times a year.

Forgotten when you last fed your plants? A layer of organic mulch replenishes humus levels returning nutrients to the soil as it decomposes. Humus is a natural food from which plants access the nutrients as they need them, reducing their reliance on your feeding regime. Humus-rich soils can also absorb and retain considerable quantities of water, releasing it to the plants as needed. So, changing how we garden and allowing the natural process-es to work for us, will reduce time spent working in the garden to time spent enjoying it. Keep the neat and tidy areas close to the house and let a little of Nature’s exuberance beautify the rest! «

www.theindigenousgardener.co.za