IntroductionUp until the introduction of the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 there was neither a reliable Product label for consumers to asses the human ecological quality of textiles nor a uniform safety standard for companies within the textile and clothing industry which enabled a practical assessment of potential harmful substances in textile products. The Österreichische Textil-Forschungsinstitut (ÖTI) and the German Forschungsinstitut Hohenstein therefore jointly developed the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 on the basis of their existing test standards.

The Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 was introduced at the beginning of the 1990s as a response to the needs of the general public for textiles which posed no risk to health. "Poison in textiles" and other negative headlines were widespread at this time and indiscriminately branded all chemical across the board used in textile manufacturing as negative and dangerous to health.The demands we make of modern textile products cannot be realized without the use of specific chemical substances, however. Fashionable colors, easy-care properties, a long life span and many other functional properties are now demanded of textiles, and are essential in some cases, depending on the intended use (e.g. for work wear).The Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 is a globally uniform testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production.

The tests for harmful substances comprise substances which are prohibited or regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be harmful to health and parameters which are included as a precautionary measure to safeguard health. ObjectivesThe testing and certification system of the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 satisfies the many and varied requirements consumers make of modern textile products and at the same time take into account the complex production conditions in the textile industry: global organization, a strong tendency towards the international division of labor, different mentalities with respect to the use of potentially harmful substances.The main objectives of Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 are as follows:

Manufacturing textile products of all types, ecologically harmless for humans. Simplifying and accelerating terms of delivery for manufacturers and retailers who wish to offer their

customers textile products which pose no risk whatsoever to health. A reliable product label for consumers who specifically aim to buy textiles which are harmless to health.

Textile ecologyTextile ecology can be subdivided into four areas: production ecology, human ecology, performance ecology & disposal ecology.1) Production Ecology

Production ecology involves the effect of production processes on man and the environment, e.g. operational safety, material, water and energy consumption, wastewater treatment, as well as the formation of dust and noise generation.2) Human Ecology

Human ecology is concerned with the effects of textiles and the chemicals contained in them on the health and well being of the consumer.

("What is Human Ecology?” By “Environmental Change Institute, Oxford University”)Human ecology explores not only the influence of humans on their environment but also the influence of the environment on human behavior and their adaptive strategies as they come to understand those influences better. For us, human ecology is a methodology as much as an area of research. It is a way of thinking about the world, and a context in which we define our questions and ways to answer those questions.3) Performance ecology

Performance ecology deals with the issues concerning textiles when in use. It looks into the effects of washing, dry cleaning and care cycles on the environment.4) Disposal ecology

Disposal ecology tackles problems relating to the disposal of textiles; recovery, recycling and disposal (thermal elimination and dumping)Oeko-Tex® Standard 100The Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 is a globally uniform testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production.

The tests for harmful substances comprise substances which are prohibited or regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be harmful to health and parameters which are included as a precautionary measure to safeguard health. A tested textile product is allocated to one of the four Oeko-Tex® product classes based on its intended use. The more intensively a product comes into contact with the skin, the stricter the human ecological requirements it must fulfill. Manufacturers are entitled to mark successfully tested products or article groups with the Oeko-Tex® label and to advertise in other forms as long as it has been proven within the extensive laboratory tests that all components, including accessories, comply with the specified test criteria without exception. A certificate which is issued applies for one year and can be renewed as often as required.ComponentsTo implement the objectives of a reliable product label for consumers and a uniform safety standard for the assessment of harmful substances for textile and clothing manufacturers, the Oeko-Tex® system provides the following components:

globally uniform and scientifically-based (textile and human ecologically relevant) test criteria annual re-evaluation and development of the stipulated limit values and criteria testing and certification of textile products by independent test institutes with relevant expertise testing of textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of processing (modular

principle) use of Oeko-Tex® certified source materials leads to synergetic effects in testing, incl. reduced costs of

testing product conformity thanks to internal quality management within the companies product monitoring by means of regular control tests on the market and site inspections by independent

auditors from the Oeko-Tex® Association Advantages Certification according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 offers companies in the textile and clothing industry who wish to offer their customers products which are safe to their health a range of advantages:

1. The modular principle of the standard ensures that textile products at all stages of the processing chain can be tested and certified. By using certificates for the preliminary sector, duplicate tests can be avoided.

2. Responsibility for the human ecological quality of the products always remains with the party who has made qualitative or chemical changes to the product in the manufacturing process. This means that manufacturers of ready-made clothing, as the final link in the production chain, are also able to have their collections certified at a manageable cost.

3. The Oeko-Tex® criteria catalogue which is uniform throughout the world, offers a standardized requirements profile for terms of purchase and delivery which simplifies and accelerates the flow of information.

This added transparency provides significantly improved product security and time savings, in particular for companies with extremely short production cycles and complex internal quality assurance systems.Historical overview of the development of the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100The Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 evolved from the independently developed test standards of the Austrian Textile Research Institute (ÖTI) and the Hohenstein Research Institute in 1992. Just one year later, the Swiss Textile Testing Institute TESTEX joined the founder members. The majority of other European textile testing institutes then also joined the International Oeko-Tex® Association in rapid succession. Today there are 14 authorized test institutes in Europe and Japan with 29 representative agencies in all key textile production regions.

(Authorized institutes & their representatives in the world)As far as the constant development of the limit values, test criteria and test methods is concerned, the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 has already proven to be a pioneer on several occasions since its introduction with respect to the evaluation of potentially harmful substances in textiles. This is where the independent testing and certification system has been shown to save time when compared with national and international regulations. The latest findings from research are implemented at the latest on 1 January of the following year following joint discussion between the Oeko-Tex® test institutes. If the market situation requires, the criteria catalogue can be adapted even more quickly. Following the discovery of tributyl tin in sportswear, tin-organic compounds

were incorporated in the test program as a precautionary measure at the beginning of 2000, only two months later.Product classes1) ClassificationThe tests for harmful substances according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 are always based on the intended use of the textile. The following principle therefore applies:The more intensively a textile comes into contact with the skin (and the more sensitive the skin), the higher the human ecological requirements which must be met.Accordingly, successfully tested textile products are allocated to four different product classes:

Product class I

Textiles and textile toys for babies and small children up to the age of three, e.g. underwear, romper suits, bed linen, bedding, soft toys etc

Product class II

Textiles which, when used as intended, have a large part of their surface in direct contact with the skin, e.g. underwear, bed linen, terry goods, shirts, blouses etc.

Product class III

Textiles which, when used as intended, do not come into contact with the skin, or only have a small part of their surface in contact with the skin, e.g. jackets, coats, interlining materials etc.

Product class IV

Furnishing materials for decorative purposes such as table linen and curtains, but also textile wall and floor coverings etc

Fig. (Percentage distribution of Oeko-Tex® certificates issued by product class (as of   June 2008)

2) Practical assessmentThe aim of the comprehensive Oeko-Tex® laboratory tests is a realistic, practice-based assessment of the human ecological optimization of the products. It is not the total quantity of substances potentially contained in a textile which represents a risk for the consumer, but simply the bioavailability portion of chemicals present, in other words, only those substances or quantities of substances which could actually reach the body when using a textile.

The Oeko-Tex® test methodology is therefore based on simulation tests, amongst other things, which take into account the potential ways via which chemicals may be absorbed into the body:

Absorption via the skin: Tests are carried out using an artificial perspiration solution to ascertain whether and to what extent substances present could be released from the textile whilst perspiring.

Ingestion: The ingestion of harmful chemicals plays an important role in particular with baby products. It is simulated using tests with an artificial saliva solution.

Inhalation of harmful substances: The possibility of inhaling potentially harmful substances from the air is covered by the Oeko-Tex® laboratory tests using olfactometry and emission measurements.

The stringency of the limit values defined is always based on the degree of contact with the human skin.TestingThe test methods to be used for the Oeko-Tex® tests for harmful substances by the authorized member institutes are summarized in the normative document "Oeko-Tex® Standard 200 – testing procedures". The laboratory tests currently comprise around 100 test parameters and are based on international test standards and other recognized testing procedures. These also include simulation tests, which take into account all possible ways by which harmful substances could be absorbed into the human body (orally, via the skin, by inhalation).The tests involved on a textile depend on the chemicals used at each stage of processing which result in a qualitative change to the textile. The scope of the human ecological requirements is based on the intended use of the textile. In principle, the more intensively a textile comes into contact with the skin, the stricter the limit values it must fulfill.Tests for harmful substancesThe internationally binding test catalogue according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 is based on scientifically proven parameters and is revised annually in line with the latest legislation and research.

It includes: substances which are prohibited by law, such as carcinogenic dyestuffs substances which are regulated by law, such as formaldehyde, softeners, heavy metals or

pentachlorophenol substances which according to current knowledge are harmful to health, but which are not yet regulated

or prohibited by law, such as pesticides, allergy-inducing dyestuffs or tin-organic compounds parameters such as colorfastness and a skin-friendly pH-value, which are precautionary measures to

safeguard consumers heathA comprehensive overview of all test parameters and limit values can be found under "limit values".Limit ValuesTest reportFollowing the laboratory testing of the samples submitted by the applicant, the relevant test institute draws up an individual test report which demonstrates that the test samples are representative of the article group to be certified.

The report documents the test results in detail and identifies deviations and improvements in particular. In compliance with the company's application, tests are carried out according to the requirements of the product class selected. The relevant limit values for the product class in question are used as the assessment criteria.

A note from the institute is attached to the test report recommending the award of a certificate for the desired article group on the basis of the test results, with details of the common product class. The costs for the tests carried out and for drawing up the test report are invoiced by the institute.Success storyIssue of certificatesThe Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 was presented to the textile and clothing industry for the first time in 1992 at the Interstoff trade fair. The first companies with Oeko-Tex® certification included manufacturers of underwear, baby wear and home textiles in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Just one year after the launch of the product label, there were 214 companies involved in Oeko-Tex® certification at all stages of the manufacturing process in these countries.

There are currently over 8,000 textile and clothing manufacturers throughout the textile processing chain in more than 80 countries certified according to the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100. With over 73,000 certificates issued and millions of labeled articles in almost all product sectors, the "Confidence in textiles" label is the best known and most widespread test label for textiles tested for harmful substances in the world.

46.6% of all Oeko-Tex® certificates are found in countries within the European market, 50.2% come from Asia. The remainder is spread between the Americas, Africa and Australia. The country with the most certificates is Germany, followed by China and Turkey. Whilst the number of certificates in Germany has leveled off now for a number of years at a high level (approx. 1,700 certificates), involvement in the Oeko-Tex® system on an international level continues to rise. Japan and the USA currently represent particularly interesting new sales markets.Oeko-Tex® certificates issued internationally (cumulative) Oeko-Tex® certificates issued internationally (annually)(As of December 2008) (As of December 2008)

Percentage distribution of Oeko-Tex® certificates issued by product class(As of June 2008)

CertificationThe Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 provides the textile and clothing industry with a globally uniform standard for the objective assessment of harmful substances for the first time. Raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of processing throughout the manufacturing chain, including accessories, are tested and certified.

The Oeko-Tex® system permits the use of source materials which already have certification, thus simplifying the flow of information between the companies involved regarding the human ecological quality of the products supplied.

Textile products may be certified according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 only if all components meet the required criteria without exception. Certification is obtained by application in writing from the manufacturer to one of the authorized test institutes or official offices around the globe. The samples submitted are tested exclusively in the member institutes in Europe and Japan in order to ensure a consistently high level of testing.

A prerequisite for the award of certification by the relevant test institute or the responsible certification centre is a declaration of conformity by the manufacturer, stating that the successfully tested textile samples shall correspond at all times with the quality of the products manufactured or sold throughout the twelve month license period.

Another integral part of Oeko-Tex® certification is the regular product controls which the Oeko-Tex® institutes carry out regularly on the market to ensure compliance with the required criteria.Initial certificationThe certification of textile products (including accessories) according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 follows a set procedure to which all authorized Oeko-Tex® test institutes are bound.The financial cost of Oeko-Tex® certification is made up of a license fee and the laboratory costs (which vary depending on the tests involved). A preliminary estimate can be obtained from the appropriate institute at any time.(In Germany and France, certificates are awarded by the Oeko-Tex® Association’s authorized certification centers.)Renewal of certificatesOn expiry of the twelve-month period of validity, an Oeko-Tex® certificate can be renewed on application for a further year.The cost incurred for the renewal of certificates is also made up of a license fee and the laboratory costs (which vary depending on the tests involved).Extensions to existing certificatesExisting Oeko-Tex® certificates can be extended at any time by the manufacturer making an informal application to the relevant test institute.Certificates are extended for a processing fee. The costs for the laboratory tests depend on the tests required for the products which have been added.Summary about certificationIt is essential that a fully-completed initial application or application for renewal contains the following information from the textile or clothing manufacturer:

Description of the products to be tested Description of the stages of processing carried out when manufacturing the textile List of all dyestuffs and auxiliaries used Safety data sheets for finishing agents Copies of certificates for already certified source materials Declaration of commitment by the applicant Indication as to whether inclusion in the shopping guide on the Oeko-Tex® website is required Representative test samples from current production are to be submitted to the test institute along with

the application for certification. On successful testing of the products listed in the application for certification, the company agrees in a declaration of conformity that the Oeko-Tex® Association is authorized to carry out control tests on its labeled products throughout the period of validity of the certificate, and that it will allow its production sites to be monitored by unannounced visits by auditors.Oeko-Tex® certificateThe Oeko-Tex® certificate issued by the relevant institute or responsible certification centre is valid for 12 months.It verifies that the articles listed have been successfully tested according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 and satisfy the requirements of a common product class. A ready-made product may only be vaunted following receipt of the certificate, and only with a license number. This is the test number of the initial certification. The test report number then provides evidence of the latest test carried out.As the Oeko-Tex® label on the product does not in itself constitute sufficient evidence of successful testing for harmful substances; manufacturers, importers, retailers and mail-order companies must insist when purchasing

their product range or components, that their suppliers present a valid Oeko-Tex® certificate. It is essential that the details on the test label (test number and test institute) correspond to those on the accompanying certificate. Products not listed on the certificate may not be marked with the Oeko-Tex® label.Missing certificates or data relating to the products supplied which deviates from that on the certificate indicate improper use of the Oeko-Tex® test label. As well as having legal implications, this can also seriously damage the image of the manufacturers and retailers involved should this become known.FunctionsThe prerequisite for product labeling and other use of the Oeko-Tex® label in advertising is always the current certificate to which the test label refers.The certificate fulfils three basic tasks:

Evidence of successful testing of textile products for harmful substances according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100For source materials in particular such as yarns, twisted yarns, textile fabrics and in finishing, a copy of the existing Oeko-Tex® certificate is the usual way for manufacturers to document the human ecological optimization of their products to subsequent stages of processing. However, it is also possible to mark the product in question with the Oeko-Tex® label, e.g. by attaching a test label to the yarn reel or a length of fabric etc.

Simplifying uniform product labeling within a companyLicense holders who have several individual Oeko-Tex® certificates for different product lines can apply to the responsible Oeko-Tex® institute for a combined certificate. This makes it possible to simplify the logistical processes involved in product labeling, as it enables different product lines to be labeled with a single test number.

Simplifying the process of preparing advertising materials for sales and marketingWith the approval of their suppliers, retailers can use the license holders' certificates to advertise products with Oeko-Tex® certification. It is also possible for retailers and mail-order companies to be actively involved in the Oeko-Tex® certification system themselves with their own certificate, however. This means they are allowed to mark advertised products with a uniform Oeko-Tex® test label in catalogues, adverts, leaflets etc. - the products for sale keep the original certificate number from the supplier, however.

Quality Management for standardOeko-Tex® auditorsIn addition to product controls on the market, the International Oeko-Tex® Association also employs two independent auditors who carry out unannounced site inspections at companies with Oeko-Tex® certification throughout the world.They check on site whether the production conditions satisfy the requirements of the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 and if necessary provide companies with advice on how to optimize their existing quality assurance system. Protection of trademark rightsAs the label "Confidence in textiles - Tested for harmful substances according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100“ is so prevalent and well-known, effective protection of the registered trademark rights is necessary. In the event that irregularities are found with the certified products during control tests, site inspections and market observations by the authorized Oeko-Tex® member institutes, this can result in the withdrawal of the existing certificate. This applies in particular in the following cases:

The information given by the manufacturer relating to the quality of the randomly tested goods does not correspond to the test samples.

The manufacturer has not informed the relevant test institute of the International Oeko-Tex® Association, or has not informed the relevant institute in good time, of a technical change to his certified products.

The labeling of the certified textile product does not correspond to the requirements of the standard.Forgery and misuse of the trademark represent an offence and will be pursued by the Oeko-Tex® Association under civil and criminal law.You will find a list of all currently invalid Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 certificates under "Withdrawn certificates".

Withdrawn certificates

Below you will find a current overview of Oeko-Tex® certificates which the International Oeko-Tex® Association found fault with during the regular product controls and were therefore withdrawn. Other Oeko-Tex StandardsA) Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000To complement the product-related Oeko-Tex® Standard 100, the Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000 is a testing, auditing and certification system for environmentally-friendly production sites throughout the textile processing chain.

To qualify for certification according to the Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000, companies must meet stipulated criteria in terms of their environmentally-friendly manufacturing processes and provide evidence that at least 30% of total production is already certified under Oeko-Tex® Standard 100.The required criteria include:

use of environmentally-damaging auxiliaries and dyestuffs prohibited compliance with standard values for waste water and exhaust air treatment optimization of energy consumption avoidance of noise and dust pollution defined measures to ensure safety at the workplace use of child labor prohibited introduction of basic elements of an environmental management system

The company is monitored by an independent auditor from one of the member institutes of the "Oeko-Tex® International - Association for the Assessment of Environmentally Friendly Textiles". The certificate is valid for three years.Advantages The additional cost of certifying and production process according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000 offers textile and clothing companies the following advantages:

effective public relations documentation of the objectively stipulated ecological measures in place at a production site 

increased production efficiency and thus reduced costs

waste minimization

increased acceptance of a company's products on the market

B) Oeko-Tex® 100plusThe Oeko-Tex® Standard 100plus product label provides textile and clothing manufacturers with the opportunity to highlight the human-ecological optimization of their products as well as their efforts in production ecology to consumers.

Companies can receive this award if their manufactured products have been successfully certified according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 and they are also able to provide evidence that the entire production chain - in other words, all production sites involved in manufacturing a product - seamlessly comply with the requirements of the Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000.