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WINE& TAPAS

October 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 3

ContentsOctober 2013

08 FeatureThe best places to pair wines with tapas.

14 Food & drinkThe renaissance of the old-school bodega.

20 ShoppingLocal and international designers at Autentic.

22 Around townStreet art takes over BCN.

24 ArtsSÂLMON<: Talent going against the current.

26 NightlifeForty years of flamenco.

29 Listings

TIME OUT BARCELONAVia Laietana, 20932955400www.timeout.cat

Publisher Eduard VoltasFinance Manager Judit SansEditor-in-chief Andreu GomilaArt director Diego PiccininnoFeatures and web editor Maria José Gómez

TIME OUT BCN [email protected] Andreu Gomila Design IrisnegroProducer Jan FleischerDesigner Eduard ForrollWriters Josep Lambies, Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia SendraTranslations Nick Chapman

Advertising Executives Nuria Gómez ([email protected]), Mercè Llubera([email protected])Edited by 80 + 4 Publicacions & Turisme de BarcelonaPrinted by Bigsa Indústria GràficaDL B.21656-2012ISSN 2014-7546Supported by

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14 CellersThe rebirth of a classic

4 Time Out BCN Guide October 2013

Monthly plannerGet out your diaries! We present just a handful of the cultural highlights of the month ahead.

Thursday 03 Friday 04

Wednesday 00Tuesday 22Saturday 19

Sunday 06

Sunday 13Thursday 10

Thursday 31Saturday 26

MIDNIGHT CALLA bit of seventies funk and a dash of eighties pop to keep you up late on a Thursday night.See p.39

VERDI BICENTENARYMorsels from ‘La Traviata’ and ‘Il Trovatore’ are on tonight’s menu at the Liceu. See p.41

SÂLMON<: European Talents Upstream<La Veronal and Lali Ayguadé join forces to present ‘Portland.’See p.37

SARRIÀ’S FESTA MAJORThe first day of Sarrià’s annual festivities, with concerts and street parties. See p.40.

LA LLUNA D’EN JOAN (JOAN’S MOON)Family theatre company Nu welcomes you to the Poble EspanyolSee p.43.

LANG LANGThe gifted and ebullient pianist plays selections of Mozart and Chopin at L’Auditori. See p.42.

45th VOLL-DAMM BARCELONA JAZZ FESTIVALRavi Coltrane in concert, a glass of wine in your hand, ahhhh. See p.47

POLISH NATIONAL BALLETThe Polish ballet company dances to Bach at the Liceu.See p.37

BEFORE THE HORIZONPainted horizons fill the walls of the Miró FoundationSee p.32


The Hot Seat

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Pablo SchvarzmanSeward make visceral, unclassifi able music. Meet their soul and lead guitarist. By Jordi Bianciotto

You landed in BCN at 23. Were you already a professional musician?I started out as an electronics engineer in Argentina. I’d heard a lot about the USA and Spain and I wanted to see for myself. In 1993 I joined Doctor No, with Dani Macaco, and decided to stay.But you didn’t become part of the city’s budding ‘mestizaje’ scene – which linked artists like Ojos de Brujo, Manu Chao and Macaco.I got interested in contemporary music and improvisation. Playing with Agustí Fernandez’s orchestra with 23 musicians was addictive. Then I played electronic music with Llibert Fortuny, Raynald Colom… and pop with Shuarma.Would you say that different styles of music are too segregated here? Yes, and some styles don’t have a big enough audience to justify it. Pop musicians are scared of jazz, but there are plenty of jazz musicians who listen to Radiohead.

There’s a long tradition of Argentinean rock. Was that an infl uence?Yes, over there rock is almost our national folk music. But what fi rst got me hooked was The Police and Andy Summers, and from there David Byrne, Peter Gabriel, Robert Fripp. Trying out weird things and creating atmospheres attracted me more than playing the guitar hero.Seward play rock songs that are also very open. Are you a group for people who know their music?We all have different musical backgrounds. We’ve played the Vic Jazz Festival and Primavera Sound. We don’t have any limits.You don’t have a website or a Twitter account either. Do you think silence is the new loud?We think our job is to make music, and others should sell the records.

46 years old. Guitarist in Seward. Moved to BCN 23 years ago.


Restaurant GUTInternational Mediterranean and

vegetarian cuisine with organic products.Speciality: Thai mussels

Perill, 13 Tel. 931 866 360Closed Sunday lunchtime

www.restaurantgut.com


WINE & TAPAS

We’ve scoured Barcelona for bars and restaurants that excel at pairing top-notch wines by the glass with the most enticing examples of gastronomy in miniature. A feast for all the senses. By Montse Virgili Photos Cristina Reche

BAR LA TIETATraditional tapasPrawns with chickpeas, potato omelette, mushrooms with garlic and parsley, competition-standard olives – it’s all good. The only difficulty is choosing what to order. There’s not much more to La Tieta than a length of marble bar, but it’s crammed with great wines, vermouth and draught beer, You won’t find the usual suspects on the wine list: one week they fall in love with Majorcan wines and the next it’s all about Galicia. No experimental cuisine here: they stick to serving well-made traditional tapas, with a nose for fine wines.Blai, 1 (Poble-sec)600 742 532

CELLER CAL MARINOKings of Poble-secIn 2009 Eduard Burrull converted a mechanic’s workshop into Cal Marino, a tavern where you can buy wine by the bottle or straight from the barrel. Even their tapas are available to take away – and locals queue for

their croquettes. Their star dish? No hesitation: mushrooms stuffed with goat’s cheese and parsley. The shelves are groaning with bottles, but for this tapa Eduard recommends a wine from Le Pedrenyeres d’Ulldemolins, his home village in Montsant. In short, these are the reigning kings of Poble-sec.Margarit, 54 (Poble-sec)93 329 45 92www.cellercalmarino.com

CUCUT BIZ BAR Hostafrancs’ best-kept secretIt looks like an ordinary local bar with a terrace, like so many others in Barcelona, but one nibble of their tapas and you know you’re onto something special. Salt cod carpaccios paired with wine from the Rueda DO, Rioja wines by the glass and Catalan cooking the way grandma used to make it – all at reasonable prices.Vilardell, 23 (Hostafrancs)93 421 97 35cucutbizbar.wordpress.com


CLOS MONTBLANCWine cellar with larderIn the Conca de Barberà, inland from Tarragona in the south of Catalonia, Clos Montblanc make wines that are the envy of their neighbours. That wasn’t enough for them, so they decided to open a bar round the corner from the Pedrera, where they put on wine tastings and small concerts, and serve great wines paired with excellent tapas. Their Sureda anchovies deserve their own monument, the foie tapa is superb, but the best part is the staff, who know their products inside out.Pau Claris, 169 (Dreta de l’Eixample) 93 487 19 43closmontblanc.com

D.O. VINS I PLATILLOSSmall-format treatsOne of the first bars in Barcelona to offer a wine list and raise their tapas and tasting dishes to delicatessen level. Next door to the Verdi cinema, you’ll need a miracle to get a table just before or after a film. They serve

wines by the glass and elaborate tapas, such as their courgette flower tempura with cheese, or their cod loins with tomato confit. It might not be the cheapest eatery in Barcelona, but the delicacies on offer will take your mind off your wallet.Verdi, 36 (Gràcia)93 218 96 73

KOSKA TAVERNAThe Basque connectionA Basque-run restaurant on Poble-sec’s popular C/ Blai. With an unfussy look and only a few hard-to-come-by tables, they serve specialities from north-west Spain, including bacalao al ajoarriero (cod in pepper sauce), chorizo in cider and piquillo peppers, alongside Catalan products like secallona sausage from Osona. The excellent wine list is based on their own selection. And if you want a change, they have txacolí – slightly sparkling white wine – and Spanish cider all year round.Blai, 8 (Poble-sec)93 127 03 13

TOPIK RESTAURANT The lap of luxury Topik is a magnificent exception. Offering one of the best set lunch menus in Barcelona, it’s also a fantastic place to sample exquisite bite-sized delicacies in the evening. Head chef Adelf must spend his days dreaming up spectacular new tapas. And when he gets his hands on oysters, his imagination runs riot, with dozens of combinations. Just stunning.València, 199 93 451 09 23www.topikrestaurant.es

We recommend: Oysters and scallops with guacamole and seaweed salad (€6.20) paired with a glass of Llopart Leopardi cava (€6.50).


MOSCAROLACheese heavenJust off Plaça Molina you’ll find Moscarola, but steer clear if you’re not keen on cheese. They have some sausages and cured meats, but here cheese reigns supreme, with an impressive menu that reads like a textbook of European cheese-making geography. These are all craft cheeses, served with conserves, dried fruit and nuts. Fancy pairing a wine with these magnificent products? Just ask the staff for advice. Although you’d think it wasn’t so, the best wines to accompany cheese are whites – they refresh both palate and appetite, so you can move on to the next.Sant Elies, 11 (Sant Gervasi-Galvany)93 200 54 94www.moscarola.com

O LUSITANOPortugal in BarcelonaNext door to the market in Poble Nou, where Barcelona almost feels like a seaside village, you’ll find O Lusitano,

a bar devoted to Portuguese gastronomy and culture. Try an azeitao cheese paired with one of the fantastic wines that have been coming out of Portugal for some time now. And don’t miss their choriço, or the paté of ginja (sour cherries) with sesame seeds and fig essence. Castanys, 23 (Poblenou)93 224 75 28www.olusitano.com

LA PALMAHigh standardsSome still hesitate about La Palma. The wall of blue tiles, like the swimming pool in a five-star hotel, the row of single malts: it all looks a little forbidding, but it would be a pity to walk on by. As well as malt whiskies and cognacs – the house speciality – they serve tapas in generous portions, including roast beef with mustard, cheeses strong enough to smell as you walk through the door, and an unforgettable pickled quail salad. There’s always one wine available by the glass, which changes every week,

PAPPA SVEN Swedish delicaciesIf you’re wondering what a Swedish chef can teach Spaniards about making tapas, that’s because you haven’t tasted Nina Olsson’s delicious creations at Pappa Sven. From simple ingredients like salmon, potatoes and cheese, Nina creates miniature miracles at only a euro a pop. One day every week is dedicated to the huge variety of Nina’s tapas, paired with Spanish wines.Villarroel, 22

93 292 82 39www.pappasven.es

We recommend: Smoked salmon with cream of salsify (€1) paired with a glass of Faino xarel·lo 2010 (€3).


and is selected with a keen nose. The owners aren’t wine snobs – they serve what they like themselves, which guarantees that you’ll like them too.Espaseria, 3 (Born)

QUIMET I QUIMETSuperlativeIt would be hard to find a guide to Barcelona that doesn’t mention Quimet i Quimet, but leaving out this legendary temple to tapas in Poble-sec would be a crime. The tapas that have made them famous are their unique montaditos, crunchy round bread bases piled them with towers of mouth-watering flavours – such as salmon with yoghurt sauce and balsamic vinegar, or mojama (cured tuna) with sundried tomatoes. There are outrageously inventive and tasty combinations for every palate. And don’t worry about the wine list – with shelves of bottles up to the ceiling, it would take a lifetime to do them justice.Poeta Cabanyes, 25 (Poble-sec)93 442 31 42

CASA LUCIO IncomparableIt bears the same name, but this Casa Lucio is no relation of the restaurant in Madrid. Lucio is from Barcelona and adheres to old-fashioned standards of elegance in waistcoat and tie. Inside, the restaurant feels a little like a rustic larder, with its shelves stocked with conserves, mouth-watering sausages and vintage wines. But the magic happens backstage, where Maribel produces incomparable tapas and main dishes. If they’re available, her artichokes with ham are not to be missed. Viladomat, 59 93 424 44 01

We recommend: Potato cakes with botifarra sausages and black horn of plenty mushrooms (€6) paired with a glass of Habla el Silencio, DO Extremadura (€2.50).


LA TECA DE VILA VINITECAHomage to gastronomyInside La Teca, this delicatessen you’ll find in the Born, there’s a bar area with four tiny tables and a small cellar for wine tastings. The fact that one of Barcelona’s best wine shops is just across the street is no coincidence – they’re sister establishments, and behind the bar at La Teca you’ll always find a sommelier who can suggest the perfect match for what’s on your plate. Wondering whether the best pairing for an unpasteurized cheese (from a selection of over 350 varieties!) is anchovies or tuna belly? Ask and ye shall receive the answer, and they’ll quickly serve it up in glasses that are probably worth more than the wine itself. And if you’re interested in taking your tasting skills up to the next level, ask about their courses on cheeses, hams and wine pairing. Agullers, 9 (Born) 93 310 19 56www.vilaviniteca.es

VIBLIOTECAAn encyclopaedia of good tasteThe name of this bar – mixing vin (wine) with biblioteca (library) – is more than a mere play on words. The shelves are a veritable encyclopaedia of Catalan wines, with more than 150 vintages on offer, in a tiny space that can barely accommodate four tables and a few bar stools. Reservations are essential. To accompany the extensive wine list, they serve amazing carpaccios (including one with artichokes and pine nuts), raw-milk cheeses and two simple but delicious tapas: sundried tomatoes with mozzarella di bufala, and a toasted cheese sandwich (known here as a biquini) with truffle oil. You’ll find the wines of the week on the board, and a menu of wines by the glasses which changes every fortnight. And when in doubt, ask the staff: they know their stuff.Vallfogona, 12 (Gràcia)93 284 42 02www. viblioteca.com

BAR DEL PLAImpeccablePla is one of those places where just stepping inside is enough to make your mouth water. The marble bar laden with good food is a constant enticement to over ordering, and their tapas and tasting dishes are impeccable. The squid in ink is almost obligatory as are the house cannelloni and the crispy oxtail with foie. Wines from Catalonia and beyond include vintages that are hard to find elsewhere.Montcada, 2 93 268 30 03www.bardelpla.cat

We recommend: Chicken cannelloni with wild mushrooms and truffle oil (€9.50) paired with a glass of ‘S’ de Saó dels Costers (€3.50).


Trad taverns: reloadedThe fashion for restoring old-school bodegas and taverns shows no sign of abating, with the reopening of two classics, Can Cisa and Bar Amigó. By Ricard Martín

At Can Cisa / Bar Brutal, the wine is flowing again. Italian twins Stefano and Max Colombo, whose past projects include Venetian restaurant Xemei and beachfront bar Santa Marta, have joined forces with wine impresario Joan Valencià to mark a turning point in the way Barcelona’s vintage bodegas are restored. In the pleasantly cool, shadowy interior of Can Cisa, you can appreciate the care that’s gone into the restoration of a neighbourhood bar. Their reverence for the tradition of buying wine from the barrel, plus some local pressure, persuaded them to combine a classic bodega at the

entrance, with a wine bar at the back. They stock 300 wines, all from organic or biodynamic producers around the world, without chemicals or additives, at accessible prices. ‘We want older people from the neighbourhood to socialise here the way they used to, so we don’t lose that essential feeling – an old-style tavern that sells vermouth by the litre.’ Bodega up front, Brutal at the backAt the end of the L-shaped tavern, you step into part two of their plan, Bar Brutal, a dining room with tables and plenty of bar space. The idea is to

Food & DrinkEdited by Ricard Martín [email protected]


buy a bottle of wine for €10, pay a €6 corkage charge, and drink it at your leisure. The menu ranges from the good to the fantastic. ‘We went out looking for small producers who would make us small quantities of very specific products.’ There are cured meats, cheeses, and high-quality tinned seafood. ‘If you want a banquet, we can oblige, but for only €20 you can have a great meal.’

The Delta on the griddleAnother old-school hostelry making a comeback under a new guise is Bar Amigó. Always a popular spot for menus and tapas, it has reopened as Amigó Cascarilles, with two new proprietors who are time-served veterans behind the bar, and are both called Pere. The formerly cramped interior of Amigó now boasts a single bar and a planxa – a hot griddle where they cook fresh seafood and shellfish from the Ebro Delta. They also have draught beer, and a vermouth from the region – both excellent.

The idea is ‘to turn the clock back to an older style of bar, but to serve fresh products as well as tinned shellfish.’ Their raison d’être, according to one of the Peres, is ‘to promote products from a struggling region that you don’t find here, and which deserve to be reconsidered’. And to offer a more informal seafood dining experience, with bar stools and toothpicks instead of maitre d’s and linen napkins. Specials chalked up on the board include a half kilo of mussels (a snip at €5.95), razor clams, frogs’ legs, and xapadillo (fried eel – delicious). As one of the Peres says, the planxa doesn’t lie: this kind of cooking is all about the quality of the ingredients.

CAN CISA/BAR BRUTALPrincesa, 14 / Barra de Ferro, 1. T. 93 319 98 81. P: € 20 (incl wine). 9.30am-2am.

AMIGÓ CASCARILLESTamarit, 181. T. 93 325 30 91. Tue-Sun. 12pm-12am. €20

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Pl. del Dr. Andreu, s/n T. 93 212 62 00. Around €35.

With a history that goes back almost 40 years, an enviable and singular location at the foot of the Tibidabo funicular, and panoramic views of the city, La Venta is a Barcelona institution. Chefs Lluís Vinyes and Josep Vilella stepped in to save the restaurant from near-certain closure, and now the impressive views and the glamorous aura of mid-1970s Barcelona are matched by cooking of the highest quality. We started out with a dish of delicious yellow and red tomatoes, grown down the coast in Gavà. After that we found it impossible to resist the tuna belly with samfaina (a vegetable sauce similar to ratatouille), tasty and incredibly creamy. The menu offers a judicious selection of fried dishes – as in their classic lluç a la romana (hake in batter) with mayonnaise. The experience is rounded out by excellent desserts by chef Josep, a great wine list and the impeccable attention from the maitre d’, Rafa. –Marcelo Aparicio

La Venta

Salt cod with garlic mousseline

LA VENTA (FOR 2)1 tomato plate 7.731 summer salad 101 salt cod with samfaina 14.551 tuna belly 15.452 glasses cava 6.361 water 1.95TOTAL (incl VAT) €64.83

Salt cod with a garlic mousseline – a hollandaise sauce with whipped cream – is one of the outstanding dishes that justify a visit to La Masia del Born. Don’t miss their rice dishes or the escalivada timbal. –M.A.

LA MASIA DEL BORNGrunyi, 5. T. 93 310 07 09. Price: €13.90

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Traditional CatalanAlba GranadosAlba París’s younger sister is all elegant simplicity: food with Basque roots and a focus on quality meat and fresh fish. It’s not cheap, but it’s worth every cent.Enric Granados, 34. 93 454 61 16. Provença (FGC). €30-€35.

Can CulleretesBarcelona’s oldest restaurant is still going strong. The Agut-Manubens family serve good Catalan cuisine at reasonable prices. Try their cannelloni with cod, roast gilt-head bream and escudella (a hearty Catalan stew). Quintana, 5. 93 317 64 85. Liceu (L3). €20-€35.

Lluís de les MolesA set lunch menu with a difference, on a side street off Plaça Catalunya. With so many dishes to choose from it feels like eating à la carte. Warning: it’s only available at midday, and drinks are not included. The potato and botifarra negra (black pudding) timbal is a classic.De les oles, 25. 93 317 58 66. Catalunya (L1, L3), Urquinaona (L4). €20-€25.

Pa i OliA traditional tavern offering great value for money. Always packed, with friendly staff. if you want traditional Catalan fare – including more intimidating offal dishes – this is the spot.Riera de Sant Miquel, 21. 93 218 96 33. Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). €15-€20.

Maritime flavoursCavamarOne of the few restaurants with a terrace right on Barceloneta beach. Outstanding fish and rice dishes – especially those with lobster – and fantastic tataki, from Ibizan chef Jordi Mancheño.(Vila Joiosa, 52). M: Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 225 71 64. €25-€30

Cervecería Brasería GallegaA pleasant surprise this far from the sea: quality seafood at reasonable prices, in a relaxed atmosphere. A down-to-earth Galcian tavern, always filled to the rafters. Reservations essential.Casanova, 238. 93 439 41 28/ 93 419 94 77. Hospital Clínic (L5), Provença (FGC). €20-€35.

CheriffIn the battle for title of ‘best paella in town’, Cheriff is a heavyweight contender: if not the best then among the top10, which is high praise indeed. A Barceloneta institution.Ginebra, 15. 93 319 69 84. Barceloneta (L4). €20-€35

El BisauraIf you’re shopping at Les Corts market, this is the place to eat: a bar that specialises in seafood, run by fish stall owners, where you’ll find superlative grilled fish, prawns and langoustines. Their calamares a la romana (battered squid rings) are the best in the city.Travessera de Les Corts, 215. 93 330 70 01. Les Corts (L3). €20-€35

El Nou RamonetThe little brother of Can Ramonet, a long-established Barcelona classic, serves traditional seafood with contemporary touches. The fish and seafood are always fresh, all the produce is local and in season, and the wine list focuses on quality vintages. If there’s someone you need to impress – a business client, your partner or your in-laws – this is the place to bring them.Carbonell, 5. 93 268 33 13. Barceloneta (L4). €20-€35.

Hot tables!Edited by Marcelo Aparicio

Our themed selection of the city’s best restaurants. By Marcelo Aparicio

Menjar i beure


What’s authentic?Fashion from international labels and accessories from local designers: that’s Ieva Balke’s winning formula at Autentic. By Laia Beltran

Ieva Balke grew up in a country that didn’t have its own edition of Vogue, but she nevertheless developed a passion for fashion from an early age. When it came time to choose a university course of study, she disregarded her creative side and went with business administration. But when creativity’s in your blood, it’s sure to resurface sooner or later. And so fi ve years ago, Ieva left her native Lithuania to settle in Barcelona, and fi nally to open her own shop. It’s called Autentic and it occupies a tiny corner premises in the Born, a place where clothes from international labels sit side by side with accessories made by local designers. This is what makes Ieva’s project special: labels like Chalayan, By Zoë and Mark Thomas Taylor share the space with Deux

Souliers and Gonzalo Cutrina, and backpacks by The Henten Bag. You’ll also come across the architectural dresses of Barcelona label Juanma by El Cuco.

Eclectic is the word that best defi nes the spirit of Autentic. There’s extravagant excess in Domingo Ayala’s explosive necklaces and also in Hussein Chayalan’s designs, at once organic and futuristic – there’s also seductiveness, exuberance and plenty of unexpected surprises.

But the best of Autentic is Ieva’s determination to seek out labels that are truly diff erent, unique and original. ‘My shop isn’t for people looking for wardrobe basics.’

AUTENTIC Esparteria, 17. T. 93 268 27 11.

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Shopping Edited by Eugenia [email protected]


Wood-framed sunglasses don’t just come in natural tones these days. Ribot’s range is tinted in explosive colours. (€110)

Backpacks are in, no doubt about it. This handcrafted design is from The Henten Bag. (€90)

The Seeker has reinvented the traditional Catalan espadrille, and by covering the esparto grass sole with rubber, has also extended its lifespan. (€40)

Designer Gonzalo Cutrina brings a magical touch to his jewellery range. We love the elaborate, evocative pieces in his latest collection, like this striking necklace. (€150)

Shopping


Spray cans held highGraffi ti is fi nding a legally recognised place on the city’s walls, thanks to initiatives such as Murs Lliures. By Eugènia Sendra

A stretch of wall in the Tres Xemenies park in Poble-sec is now home to Murs Lliures (Free Walls), a project that allows graffi ti artists to work in public spaces without the risk of being fi ned, through the cession of walls and façades for street art. ‘Street art shouldn’t have any stigma attached to it – it’s part of the urban environment,’ says Marc García, who represents RebobinART, the association behind the project. In collaboration with Barcelona’s city council they’ve turned something ‘illegal and highly personal’ into an offi cially sanctioned public activity.

The area delimited by three streets, Veneçuala, Agricultura and Pallars, in Poblenou, is another oasis for street artists. ‘The artist decides where to paint within the space,’ says García, ‘so they’re responsible for what they paint and what they paint over.’ The

organisation’s website, where participants sign up for the scheme, is also a photographic archive of projects and artists who have left their mark on the city.

Outside the systemAleix Gordo Hostau and Gustavo López Lacalle are making BCN Rise & Fall, a documentary that traces the history of graffi ti in the city, and suggests alternatives that will allow it to continue.

The problem, according to graffi ti artists like Balü, is the ambiguity of the offi cial response. ‘This is an art form that has been around for over 40 years, but no one here seriously supports it. Galleries and foundations should get behind it, and the city council shouldn’t support it only because it shows the city in a good light.’

Around TownEdited by Eugènia [email protected]


Against the currentThe Mercat de les Flors welcomes talent from across Europe, as the SÂLMON< festival returns for a second year. By Maria Junyent

In October a school of young talents from all over Europe converges on the Mercat de les Flors for the SÂLMON<: European Talents Upstream< festival of body and movement. The stars of the festival aren’t silver-scaled fi sh, but young European artists, and the festival’s name refl ects the fact the artists and dancers who take part are all swimming against the current, in societies that don’t always make it easy for them to develop their talents. The festival is a platform for this generation’s most exciting artists, and also a showcase for the things that intrigue, interest and concern them.

This year, SÂLMON<: European Talents Upstream< takes place between 19 Oct and 3 Nov. It features

local and international artists, within the framework of the artistic residences off ered by the El Graner centre for dance creation and the European-wide modul-dance project, which is led by the Mercat de les Flors, with the participation of 19 other dance houses. The packed programme extends over two weeks, encompassing diff erent formats and diverse approaches to the body and movement.

The festival’s goal is to enable audiences to discover international creators linked to the modul-dance project. The project supports some 50 choreographers and involves around 500 artists, who take part in international exchange programmes

ArtsEdited by Josep [email protected]


OperaTwo centuries of Verdi

Exactly 200 years ago this October, Giuseppe Verdi was born in Le Roncole, in the modern Italian province of Parma. He was to become one of the greatest operatic composers in history, revered as the pioneering creator of ‘Nabucco’, ‘Il Trovatore’ and ‘La Traviata’; his operas based on Shakespearian texts such as ‘Macbeth’, ‘Othello’ and ‘Falstaff ’; as well as scores of pieces that are familiar to millions of opera lovers today. It’s no surprise that Barcelona’s opera house will pay a special homage to the Italian maestro to mark the bicentenary of his birth, opening its 2013-2014 season with a veritable feast of Verdiana that reviews the whole of his operatic oeuvre. Rather than a chronological journey through the best-known works, the concerts explore forgotten, rejected or alternative versions. The celebrations are spread over four concerts, beginning with fragments from ‘Rigoletto’, ‘Nabucco’, ‘Oberto’ and others (30 Sep - 3 Oct), and continuing with concerts featuring excerpts from ‘La Traviata’, ‘Il Trovatore’ and ‘Stiff elio’, followed by ‘Aida’, ‘Macbeth’ and ‘Ernani’, and in the closing concerts, ‘Don Carlos’, ‘Otello ‘and ‘Falstaff ’. A chance to discover – or rediscover – the magnitude of Verdi’s talent.

and are involved in more than 400 shows around Europe.

Festival highlightsAustrian company The Loose Collective open the festival with a concert-performance about the Old Testament, drawing on a range of contemporary modes of representation. Artists who have been in residence at El Graner will perform the shows they created there, including Italian performer Alessandro Sciarroni’s piece ‘I will be there when you die’, and the innovative work of Eugénie Revetz, who presents her second show ‘Encore’, after the success of ‘Gina’ in 2010.

We will also have the chance to see some of the artists who took part in last year’s festival. Umma Umma Dance present a preview of their new show ‘Stuntman’, a meditation on identity and our need to be refl ected in the eyes of others. One of the highlights is sure to be the collaboration between Lali Ayguadé and Marcos Morau / La Veronal, who have worked together to create ‘Portland’, a show that forms part of a series of small-format pieces, solos and duets that reproduce the American landscape, and refl ect on contemplation and indiff erence.

Making a splashSÂLMON< also aims to encourage new artists. During October the Mercat will host some fascinating new projects, including El Conde de Torrefi el, who present ‘La chica de la agencia de viajes nos dijo que había piscina en el apartamento’ (‘The girl at the travel agency told us there was swimming pool in the apartment’), exploring the trivialisation of culture, leisure and pleasure. Diego Anido presents ‘Symon Pédícrí’, a fable of ventriloquism that veers between comic and the sinister, and in ‘Impasse#2’, Sebastián García Ferro draws on the tragic myth of the Echo and Narcissus to explore the continuous unfolding of our beings at each step of our lives.

Arts


Flamenco RamblasIf there’s one place in Barcelona that is synonymous with the best flamenco singers, dancers and guitarists, it’s El Cordobés. By Maria Junyent

Since 1970, El Cordobés has been one of Barcelona’s most respected flamenco tablaos. It has all the necessary ingredients: the Moorish décor, a venue right on the Ramblas, and a programme that has included some of the greatest names in flamenco, from the legendary cantaor Cameron de la Isla to the inspired dancer Farruco. The venue has served to launch the careers of many a promising young artist, and most of all, it has stayed true to its essential character despite the passing of time. More than 40 years on, El Cordobés is still as relevant as ever, and a glance at October’s programme is enough to confirm it. One of the most hotly anticipated visitors will be El Farru, brother of Farruquito and one of the most accomplished dancers of the moment, who will be accompanied by Juan de

Juan. They will share the stage with three of today’s most renowned bailaoras: Pastora Galván, Karime Amaya (niece of the great Carmen Amaya and the subject of Eva Vila’s recent doucmentary Bajarí) and Paloma Fantoya.

Music to matchThis permanent festival of flamenco would not be complete without the best guitarists and most spectacular voices, which is why El Cordobés will be welcoming artists of the stature of La Tana, El Morenito de Illora, and El Coco. The venue also continues to stage its flagship shows, ‘Pure Flamenco’ and ‘In memory of Carmen Amaya’.

EL CORDOBÉS La Rambla, 35. www.tablaocordobes.com

NightlifeEdited by Ricard Martín [email protected]

October 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 29October 2013 Time Out BCN Guide | 29

ListingsOctober [email protected]

Verdi Bicentenary

SÂLMON< Portland

45th Voll-Damm Jazz Festival

SUNDAY 06Part one of the Liceu’s celebration of Verdi’s legacy : ‘Il Troavtore’, ‘La Traviata’ and more.

SATURDAY 19SÂLMON<: European Talents Upstream< brings together La Veronal and dancer Lali Ayguadé.

TUESDAY 22Ravi Coltrane’s sax paired with fi ne wines – a match made in heaven.


Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona

(Pl. Pons & Clerch, 2). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 34 20. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Closed Sun and public holidays.

FREE Postwar Barcelona: A photographic chronicle, 1939-1945. Until 28 Sep. More than 100 images that depict daily life during Barcelona’s first years under the Franco dictatorship.

Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de Barcelona

(Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume I (L4) & Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 31 81 195. Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm; Sat 9am-1pm.

FREE Dipping into the Archive: Postwar Barcelona, 1939-1945. Until 31 Oct. The official culture of Franco’s Barcelona.

CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer & Guàrdia, 6-8).

M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 476 86 00. Mon-Fri 10am-8pm. Wed 10am-11pm; Sat, Sun 10am-9pm. Adults €4. Under 16s free.

Pissarro 16 Oct - 26 Jan. Sixty oil paintings, from museums and private collections, follow the artistic career of Camille Pissarro, one of the founders of Impressionism.

Art, two points. Barcelona’s contemporary art collections Until 29 Sep. Barcelona hosts a major exhibition of works from the collections of the ”la Caixa” Foundation and the city’s contemporary art museum (MACBA), which examines the relationships between different artworks, historical periods and themes.

Inventions. Ideas that change lives. 9 Oct - 23 Feb. Some of the most revolutionary new inventions find real world applications in Africa, Asia and Latin America.

Art fiction. Comisart: new perspectives on the “la Caixa” Foundation’s collection Until 22 Dec.

Can Framis. Fundació Vila Casas

(Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries (L1), Poblenou (L4) & Llacuna (L4). T. 93 320 87 36. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun 11am-2pm. €5 adults. €2 students and pensioners.

Permanent exhibition. Housed in a former cotton mill in Poble Nou’s 22@ district, Can Framis showcases contemporary painting from the Vila Casas Foundation’s collection,

Finalists in the 2013 Painting Prize Until 15 Dec. See new works selected for the 2013 Painting Prize.

Bodies and things. Javier Garcés, 2012 Sculpture Prize Until 15 Dec.

Castell de Montjuïc (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya

(L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. Apr-Sep 9am–9pm.

FREE Montjuïc, the construction of a castle. Permanent exhibition, telling the story of Montjuïc and its castle.

FREE Doble Creu. Sculpture by Carles Berga. Permanent exhibition.

FREE Catalonia in transition. Until 28 Feb.

Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona

(Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun & public hols 11am-8pm; closed Mon. CCCB will be closed for building work until 28 Oct. €6. Reduced entry for pensioners and students on Wed (except public holidays): €4. Free for under 16s & unemployed.

Espriu: I have looked at this land 30 Oct - 24 Feb. The life and work of Catalan writer Salvador Espriu, and his relevance to contemporary Catalan culture.

CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo

(FGC). T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. €4 (permanent and temporary exhibitions). Under 16s free; first Sun of month: free.

Permanent exhibition. The city’s science museum with over 50,000 m2 of exhibition and activity space: the Flooded Forest, the Geological Wall, the

Exhibitions Information and sales:

Tourist Information Points and www.barcelonaturisme.cat


Hall of Matter, the Planetarium, the Bubble Planetarium, the Science Plaza, the Touch, touch! exhibition, and more.

Microvida. Beyond the human eye. An journey into the hidden world of microscopic life forms, focusing on the scientific and technological advances that have made it possible to explore these miniature worlds.

Disseny Hub Barcelona(Plaça de les Glòries, 37-38). M:

Glòries (L1). T. 93 256 34 63. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. More information: www.museudeldisseny.bcn.cat.

Disseny Hub Barcelona Guided tour in Catalan, Spanish and English, Sun., 11am & 12.30am. €3. Visit the Disseny Hub Barcelona, future location of Barcelona’s design museum.

FREE The best design of the year Until 31Oct.

FREE Materialism European Tour Until 30 Sep.

FREE The Swap Show Until 30 Sep.

El Born Centre Cultural(Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I (L4)

& Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 256 68 51. Tues-Sun and public hols, 10am-8pm. Mon closed except public hols. Free until 29 Sep. From 1 Oct: €6 (exhibitions and archaeological remains). Reduced: €4. Under 16s free. Sun 3pm-8pm free. First Sun every month free, 10am-8pm. More info: www.elborncentrecultural.com.

El Born Centre Cultural Under one of the city’s most striking markets lie remains from the early 1700s. The market, the archaeological remains of the siege and fall of the city in 1714, and the accompanying exhibitions make up this new institution that looks back on three centuries of history.

Sala Villarroel Barcelona 1700. From stones to people. Permanent exhibition. 18th-century Barcelona society was dynamic and forward-thinking, but also scarred by wars between 1691 and 1714.

Sala Casanova Until it is achieved. The siege of 1714 12 Sep 2013 - 11 Sep 2014. Exhibition on the Catalan War of 1713-1714, the epilogue to the War of Spanish Succession, and a re-creation of the final battle of 11 September 1714.

Espais VolART-Fundació Vila Casas

(Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona

(L1, L4). T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri 5-8.30pm; Sat 11am-2pm, 5-8.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm. €1; reduced: 50¢.

Espai Volart 2 Luís Marsans. The apparent image 19 Sep-15 Dec. Sketches, drawings and paintings by this Catalan artist.

Espai Volart 2 Xavier Valls. Sotto Voce 19 Sep-15 Dec. Major works by Xavier Valls, a Catalan painter resident in Paris.

Espai Volart Carla Tarruella. They call me solitude 19 Sep-15 Dec. Twenty works by the artist including hitherto unseen work.

Fundació Antoni Tàpies (Aragó, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia

(L2, L3, L4). T. 93 487 03 15. Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. €7. Students and pensioners, €5.60.

Tàpies from within Until 3 Nov. Almost 140 works from Antoni Tàpies’s own studio and the Tàpies Foundation’s collection, covering a period from 1945 until 2011.

Fundació Francisco Godia

(Diputació, 250). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) & Provença (FGC). T. 93 272 31 80. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm; closed Tue. €7. Reduced €4.

Permanent exhibition. Specialising in Medieval art, ceramics, modern and contemporary painting, with works by Ramon Casas, Santiago Rusiñol, Isidre Nonell, Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró and Miquel Barceló.

Fundació Joan Miró (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya

(L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. Tue-Sat 10am-8pm; Thu 10am-9.30pm; Sun & public holidays 10am-2.30pm. Closed Mondays. €11. Temporary exhibition: €7. Espai 13: €2.50.

Permanent exhibition The most significant public collection of Joan Miró’s work, housed in Josep Lluís Sert’s Mediterranean-inspired building.

Before the horizon 24 Oct - 16 Feb. An exhibition that explores the horizon as a recurring element in the history of modern painting from the 19th century to the present day. Including works by Monet, Ruscha, Andre, Hockney, Chagall, Chillida, Klee, Tàpies, Miró and Magritte.

Espai 13 ‘She corrects habits


laughing.’ Oriol Vilanova Until 8 Dec.Vestibule. Pere Formiguera Until

19 Jan.

Fundació Suñol (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: Diagonal

(L3, L5). T. 93 496 10 32. Mon-Fri 11am-2pm & 4-8pm; Sat 4-8pm. €6. Reduced: €3.

Continuum. The fifth anniversary of the Josep Suñol collection Until 11 Jan 2014. 30 works by artists including Miquel Barceló, Andy Warhol, Robert Llimós, Isidre Manils and Zush.

Joan Rom E.R.T. Until 25 Jan. Overview of Joan Rom’s artistic praxis, with a selection of works in 2 and 3 dimensions made in organic materials.

Jardí Botànic (Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: Espanya

(L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 256 41 60. Every day, 10am-8pm.

Jardí Botànic (MCNB) Permanent collection of plants from Mediterranean climate zones all over the world.

The vegetable kingdom. Paul den Hollander Mon-Sat 11am-2pm; Sun, 11am-2pm, 4pm-6pm. Until 2 Feb. Photographer Paul den Hollander finds inspiration in the world of nature, museum collections and gardens.

MACBA. Museu d’Art Contemporani

(Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat (L1, L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 412 08 10. Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-9pm; Sun, public hols 10am-3pm. 25 Jun-24 Sep: Mon-Fri 11am-8pm; Fri, 11am-10pm; Sat 10am-10pm; Sun, public hols, 10am-3pm. Closed Tue, except public hols. Whole museum ticket: €9 (reduced €7). Single exhibition ticket: €6.50 (reduced €5).

Art, two points. Until 6 Jan. More than 350 works by 80 artists in this joint exhibition examining the dialogue between modernity and the avant-garde and drawing on the contemporary art collections of the MACBA and the ”La Caixa” Foundation that takes visitors on a journey through the history of art from the late 19th century to the present day.

MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern

(Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. 7 €. Reduced 5 €.

Permanent exhibition. 21st-century contemporary art. The Palau Gomis has a collection of over 200 paintings and 30 sculptures by figurative artists.

MIBA. Museu d’Idees i Invents de Barcelona

(Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 332 79 30. Tue-Fri 10am-2pm, 4-7pm; Sat, Sun 11am-7pm; Sun, public holidays 10am-2pm. €8. Reduced €6.

Permanent exhibition The fascinating world of creativity and inventing.

MUHBA El Call (Placeta de Manuel Ribé). M: Liceu (L3) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 21

22. Tue-Fri 10am-2pm, 4-7pm. Sat, Sun 11am-7pm. Public

holidays and Mondays before a public holiday (10am-2pm). Otherwise closed Mon. €2.20.

Salomó ben Adret (1235-1310). The Triumph of an

Orthodoxy. Permanent exhibition. Salomó ben

Adret, also known as the Rashba, was a Catalan Jewish

leader and Rabbi at the main synagogue of Barcelona, and served three kings as adviser on Jewish Affairs.

MUHBA Museu d’Història de Barcelona

(Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 21 22. Tues-Sat 10–7pm; Sun 10am-8pm (Sun free after 3pm). Sun and Mon before public holidays 10am-2pm. Otherwise closed Mon. €7. Under-16s free. Sunday afternoon, free.

Permanent exhibition Located beneath the Plaça del Rei, in the Gothic quarter, an archaeological tour allows visitors to discover the Roman colony of Barcino.

Casa Padellàs MUHBA Laboratory: Collecting the city Until Dec 31.

As a global city,

Barcelona puts a

plenty of importance

on art as an engine of

evolution. For proof,

don’t miss Art,

two points at the

MACBA.


MUHBA Park Güell (Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). T. 93

256 21 22. 1 Apr-30 Sep: Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. €2.20. (Sun free after 3pm.) 5 Aug-30 Sep: special promotion, two tickets for the price of one.

Permanent exhibition.

MUHBA Refugi 307 (Nou de la Rambla, 169). M: Paral·lel

(L2, L3). T. 93 256 21 22. Sat & Sun 10am-2pm, by appointment. Public holidays, closed. €3.40.

Permanent exhibition. In 400 metres of underground passageways, visitors can relive the experience of city which, during the Civil War, was subjected to a new form of warfare: indiscriminate aerial bombardment of the civilian population.

MUHBA Santa Caterina (Pl. de Joan Capri). T. 93 256 21 22.

Mon-Sat 10am-2pm Closed Sun and public holidays.

FREE Permanent collection. Inside the renovated Santa Caterina Market, this exhibition revisits the most significant events in Barcelona’s history, from the bronze age to the most recent examples of contemporary architecture.

MUHBA Vil·la Joana. Casa Verdaguer

(Carretera de l’Església, 104. Vallvidrera). T. 93 256 21 22. Sat, Sun 10am-2pm. Tue-Fri, groups by appt only. Closed Mon.

FREE MUHBA Vil·la Joana. Casa Verdaguer Permanent exhibition, The poet Jacint Verdaguer, one of the key figures in the revival of Catalan as a literary language, spent the last years of his life in this 19th-century villa.

Museu Blau (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc

del Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 256 60 02. Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm. Sat & Sun, 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. 6 €. Reduced: €2.70. Museum & Botanical Gardens €7. Reduced: €5.

Planeta Vida Permanent exhibition. The Museu Blau is Barcelona’s natural sciences museum and this exhibition traces the history of life and its evolution on our planet, from its first origins down to the present day.

Museu de Badalona (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1).

Badalona. M: Pep Ventura (L2). T. 93 384 17 50. Tue-Sat 10am-2pm, 5-8pm; Sun & public holidays 10am-2pm. €6.

Baetulo, a Roman City Permanent exhibition. Visit the underground remains of the Roman baths and the Decumanus Maximus.

Museu de Montserrat (Abadia de Montserrat. 08199

Montserrat). Monistrol de Montserrat. T. 93 877 77 45. Mon-Sun 10am-5.30pm. €7. Reduced: €4.

Permanent Exhibition. Paintings by El Greco, Caravaggio, Tiepolo, Monet, Sisley, Degas, Pissarro, Miró, Dalí, Picasso, Le Corbusier, Chagall and Braque.

Francesc Esteve, ‘Looking back on memory.’ Until 1 Oct. Neorealist photography from the 1950s and 60s in Catalonia: portraits of ordinary people and their daily lives.

Joan Furriols, ‘The meaning of a vacuum’ Until 1 Oct. 100 sculptures that explore the territory between figuration and abstraction.

Museu de l’Eròtica(La Rambla, 96). M: Catalunya (L1,

L3). T. 93 318 98 65. Mon-Sun 10am-10pm. Adults €9. Reduced: €8.

Permanent exhibition The world of eroticism and its representation in art is explored through the 800 pieces that make up the museum’s collection.

Sculptures by Antonio “Totó” Sibio Exhibition of erotic sculptures.

Museu de la Moto de Barcelona

(Carrer de la Palla, 10). T. 933 186 584. Tue-Sat 10am-2pm, 4pm-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. Closed Mon. €6. Reduced: €4.

The history of the motorbike in Catalonia. Permanent exhibition. The story of motorbikes in Catalonia, told using 36 of the most representative models, from the earliest examples to those ridden by champions.

Unique and unusual motorbikes. Very special motorbikes: prototypes that were never mass-produced, the earliest motorbikes for urban use, and specialised models


designed for little-known sporting disciplines.

Museu de la Música (L’Auditori. Lepant, 150). M: Glòries

(L1) & Marina (L1). T. 93 256 36 50. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Tues. €4. Reduced: €3. Free admission Sun afternoon.

Permanent exhibition A journey through different periods in the history of music in different cultures.

Classical guitar. The greatest collection in the world Until 31 Dec. Tue-Sun, 3.30pm & 4pm. €15. Reduced: €13. With examples from the 17th century to today, the museum’s collection of classical guitars is unique. The guided tour includes a concert with works by Albéniz and Tàrrega.

Museu de la Xocolata(Comerç, 36 - Antic Convent de Sant

Agustí). M: Arc de Triomf (L1). T.93 268 78 78 . Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-3pm. €5. Group ticket: € 4.

Permanent exhibition. The story of chocolate, from its earliest origins to its arrival in Europe in the 19th century, with a special focus on its use in Barcelona and Catalonia.

Museu del Futbol Club Barcelona

(Aristides Maillol, s/n. Estadi FCB. Gates 7 or 9). M: Les Corts (L3). T. 902 18 99 00. 2 Apr-7 Oct: Mon-Sat 10am–8pm; Sun, public holidays 10am-2.30pm. 8 Oct–1 Apr: Mon-Sat 10am–6.30pm; Sun, public holidays 10am–2.30pm. Camp Nou Tour available until one hour before museum closing time. €23. Children: €17. Under 6 and FCB members, free.

Camp Nou Experience Permanent exhibition. Discover 100 years of the club’s history, visit different areas of the Camp Nou and relive the club’s greatest achievements in the multimedia zone.

Museu del Mamut (C/ Montcada, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). T.

93 268 85 20. Mon-Sun 10am-9pm. €7.50. Reduced: €5. Children (6-15 years old): €3.50.

Permanent exhibition See the remains of mammoths and other Ice Age animals.

Museu del Modernisme Català

(Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 272 28 96. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun, public holidays 10am-2pm. €10.

Permanent exhibition 350 works by 42 of the most important artists of the Catalan modernisme movement, located in a one-time textile factory in the heart of Barcelona.

Museu Egipci (València, 284). M: Passeig de Gràcia

(L2, L3, L4). T. 93 488 01 88. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. 8 Jan-21 Jun, 12 Sept-30 Nov: closed 2-4pm. (except Easter week and public holidays). Adults €11. Reduced €8.

Permanent exhibition Almost a thousand exhibits that provide an insight into daily life and customs in Ancient Egypt.

Museu Frederic Marès (Plaça de Sant Iu, 5). M: Liceu (L3) &

Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun, public hols 11am-8pm. Closed Mon except public hols. €4.20.

Permanent exhibition Located in what was once the Royal Palace of the Counts of Barcelona, the Marès museum houses an extraordinary collection of the day-to-day objects and artworks that Frederic Marès collected over his lifetime.

Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya

(Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun, public holidays 10am-3pm. €12. Sat afternoon, from 3pm: free. Temporary exhibitions: consult museum website.

Permanent exhibition: The world’s most important collections of Romanesque art and the unique Catalan modernista style.

Tàpies. From within. Until 3 Nov. 100 works from the artistís own studio and the Antoni Tàpies Foundationís collection, from works painted in the 1940s to others finished months before his death.

Modernista interiors and furniture: Gaspar Homar and Juan Busquets Until 31 Dec.

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Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport Joan Antoni Samaranch

(Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 292 53 79. Apr- Sep. Tues-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun, public holidays 10am-2.30pm. Oct-Mar: Tues-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun, public hols 10am-2.30pm; €5.10. Students: €2.60. Under-14s and over-65s: free.

Permanent exhibition Olympic sport as never before.

Museu Picasso (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4).

T. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm; closed Mon (except public holidays). 11 € (combined ticket for museum + temporary exhibition). Temporary exhibition only: € 6.

Permanent exhibition The collection comprises nearly 4,000 works from different periods in Picasso’s life, most from his student years and youth.

The Museu Picasso, 50 years in Barcelona. The collection. Until 24 Nov. Exhibition to mark the 50th anniversary of the Museu Picasso.

A jounrey through the blue. “La Vida” 11 Oct - 19 Jan. An exhibition that traces the connections between the key work of Picasso’s blue period, ‘La Vida,’ the drawings that relate to this work, and the image hidden under the painting ‘Terrats de Barcelona.’

Palau Robert (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal (L3,

L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat 10am–7pm. Sun, public hols 10am-2.30pm.

FREE Sala 1 & 2: Pencils... and action. Roser Capdevila at the drawing board Until 23 Mar. A Catalan illustrator with an international reputation.

FREE Sala 3: Barcelona Prêt-à-Porter, 1958-2008. 50 years of the fashion industry. Until 30 Mar 2014. More than 250 garments from Antoni de Montpalau’s collection.

FREE Sala 4: Closer Until 17 Nov. Problems and possible solutions, all involving cooperation, in areas such as drinking water, education, health or food.

Pis-museu Casa Bloc (DHUB-Casa Bloc. C. d’Almirall

Pròixida, 1-3-5). M: Torras i Bages (L1).

Guided visit by appt. T. 93 256 34 63. Tue-Fri 10am-1pm; Sat, Sun 3-5.30pm.

Permanent exhibition Casa Bloc (1932-1939) is an outstanding example of worker’s accommodation built during the Second Spanish Republic.

Reial Monestir de Santa Maria de Pedralbes

(Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: Reina Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 34 34. Tues-Fri, public holidays 10am-2pm; Sat & Sun, 10am-5pm. €7. Reduced: €4.

Monastery of Pedralbes Permanent exhibition. A top example of Catalan Gothic, the monastery visit includes the church and the monastery, the paintings from the Sant Miquel chapel and more.

Murals under the magnifying glass. Paintings from the Sant Miquel Chapel. Until 31 Dec.

TheatreEl Molino

(Vilà i Vilà, 99). www.elmolinobcn.com. M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Advance: www.elmolinobcn.com.

Life is a cabaret Thu, 9.30pm. Fri, Sat 6.30 & 9.30pm. €33 . It’s cabaret time at El Molino.

Teatre Gaudí Barcelona(Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). T.

93 603 51 52. www.teatregaudibarcelona.com. M: Sagrada Família (L2, L5) & Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5). Ticket offices open one hour before performances start. Advance: www.ticketmaster.es

Totes les parelles ho fan (Every couple does it) 21 Aug-29 Sep. Wed-Sun 8.30pm €20. In Catalan. Hilarious farce, in which four very different characters discover that the problem isn’t that people don’t speak to each other – it’s that they don’t listen.

Teatre Lliure: Montjuïc (Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46). T. 93

289 27 70. www.bcn.cat/grec. M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC) & Poble Sec (L3). Ticket offices on Plaça Margarida Xirgu: weekdays 9am-8pm. Ticket offices in Sala Fabià Puigserver: 3 hours before performances start. Advance: www.teatrelliure.cat.


À la ville de... Barcelona Dir: Joan Ollé. Wed - Fri 8.30pm, Sat 5.30pm & 9pm, Sun 6pm. 10 Oct - 3 Nov. €22 - €29. In Catalan. Homage to Barcelona, that re-creates its many incarnations.

De quan somiava Written and dir. by Jordi Prat i Coll, w/ the Lady Lady Co. Mon -Wed & Sun 9pm, Thu 9.30pm, Fri 6.30pm. 11 - 27 Oct. Prices: see web. In Catalan. Tragicomic tale of a single actress nobody calls - not even to work.

El intérprete by Álvaro Tato. 28 Oct. 9pm. €15. In Spanish. The music of performers from Chavela Vargas and Gardel to Talking Heads, David Bowie and the Rolling Stones.

Afterplay by Brian Friel. Dir: Imma Colomer. For ticket prices and times see website. 30 Oct - 17 Nov. In Catalan.

Teatre Lliure: Gràcia (Montseny, 47). T. 93 238 76 25.

www.teatrelliure.com. M: Fontana (L3) & Joanic (L4). Ticket offices open Mon-Fri 5-8pm. Weekends and public holidays, from 5pm. Advance: 902 106 369 or www.teatrelliure.cat

The revolution will not be tweeted by Jordi Casanovas, Pau Miró & Guillem Clua. Wed - Fri 8.30pm, Sat 5.30pm & 9pm. Sun 6pm. 3 - 27 Oct. €22 - €29. In Catalan. The revolution still requires a mental click, rather than that of a mouse.

Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). T. 93 317 75 99.

www.bcn.cat/grec. M: Catalunya (L1, L3). Ticket offices: Tue- Fri from 5pm, Sat & Sun from 4pm, until performance starts. Advance: 902 33 22 11 & www.ticketmaster.es.

Siglo de Oro, siglo de ahora (Folía) Wed – Fri 9pm, Sat 6.30pm & 9pm Sun 6.30pm. Until 13 Oct. €18-€27. Musical in Spanish.

Tricicle. BITS Wed - Fri 9pm, Sat, Sun 6.30pm. 16 Oct - March. €20 - €32. A new show that takes a humorous look at our IT-dependent society.

Teatre Victòria(Avinguda Paral·lel, 65-67). T. 93 329

91 89. www.teatrevitoria.com. M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Ticket offices open Wed–Fri from 5pm, Sat, Sun from 4pm until performance starts. Advance: 902 33 22 11 & www.ticketmaster.es.

La família irreal. The musical by Minoria Absoluta & Dagoll Dagom Company. Wed & Thu 8.30pm, Fri 9.30pm, Sat 6pm & 9.30pm, Sun 6pm.

17 Oct - 6 Jan. €23-€37. In Catalan. Irony mixed with with musical numbers.

DanceGran Teatre del Liceu

(La Rambla, 51-59). T. 93 485 99 00. www.liceubarcelona.cat. M: Liceu (L3).

Polish National Ballet / “Bach dances” Thu, Fri 8pm, Sat 5pm & 9.30pm. 24 - 26 Oct. €17.50 - €101.25. Showing four ways of translating the work of Bach into movement.

Mercat de les Flors(Lleida, 59). T. 93 426 18 75. www.

bcn.cat/grec.. M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC) & Poble Sec (L3). Ticket offices open one hour before performance starts. Advance: www.mercatflors.cat

“Cédric Andrieux” by Jérôme Bel 4 & 5 Oct, 8.30pm. €16. .

Session 1 Irregular Section “Monique” by Alix Eynaudi & Andrea Murer / “For a seated audience” by Thomas Brandstätter 16 & 17 Oct. 8.30pm. €12. .

Sâlmon Festival 2013. The Loose Collective / “The Old Testament” 19 & 20 Oct. 9pm. €6.

Sâlmon Festival 2013. “Portland” by La Veronal & Lali Ayguadé + “Stuntman” by Umma Dance 19 & 20 Oct. 7pm.€6.

Sâlmon Festival 2013. “The girl at the travel agency told us there was swimming pool in the apartment” / El Conde de Torrefiel 23 & 24 Oct. 9pm. €6.

Sâlmon Festival 2013. Alejandro Sciarroni / “Untitled” 26 i 27 Oct. 21 h. 6 €.

Sâlmon Festival 2013. Guy Nader & Maria Campos / Guy Nader & Mickael Marso / “Zenith!Extract” 26 & 27 Oct. 9pm. €6.

Sâlmon Festival 2013. Jurij Konkar & Marti Kilvady / “Still” 30 & 31 Oct. 9pm. €6.

INFORMATION AND SALES



Tuesday 1 Classical music

Classical guitar at the Museu de la Música. The greatest collection in the world. Museu de la Música (L’Auditori. Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1) & Marina (L1). Tue-Sun 3.30 & 4pm. Guided visit and concert. €15. Reduced €13. Discover all the secrets of the classical guitar and enjoy live music by Albéniz and Tàrrega.

The art of the guitar: “Flamenco and Classical” Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm. €21. The Spanish guitar in concert with music by Albéniz, Granados, Rodrigo and Tàrrega.

Flamenco Show at the Palacio del

Flamenco Palacio del Flamenco (Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) 7.15, 8.30 & 10.40pm.

IndieCrappy Tuesdays Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 12am. €14 (on the door). €13 (advance). Indie pop and electronic club night with a young and up-for-it crowd.

JazzJazz concerts Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8 & 10pm. Full programme: www.masimas.com/jamboree. Concerts in the basement jazz club which has hosted legendary names from every epoch in jazz history.

Tour The Gaudí Crypt at the Colònia

Güell (Claudi Güell, 6 - Santa Coloma de Cervelló). M: Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat from Pl. Espanya (FGC: S33, S8, S4). 10am-7pm. Sun, 10am-3pm. €9 (includes audio guide). €7.50 (reduced). Discover Gaudí’s hidden treasure, a UNESCO World Heritage site just 20 minutes from Barcelona.

Wednesday 2Classical musicKhatia Buniatishvili, piano Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €14-€60. Works by Ravel & Mussorgski

“Our neighbours, Rusiñol and Picasso” El Born Centre Cultural. Sala Moragues (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I (L4) & Barceloneta (L4). 9pm. €5. A repertoire of works by Satie, Morera, Claude Debussy, Casagemas, Albéniz and Granados.

Festa MajorFREE Festa Major d’Esquerra de l’Eixample Various streets. M: Hospital Clínic (L5). 2-12 Oct. More information: www.bcn.cat/agenda. District-wide street festival with a range of activities.

Flamenco Great Flamenco Gala Teatre

Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 7pm. €30-€45. The exhilarating world of flamenco in an atmospheric show that combines music, rhythm and movement.

JazzJazz concerts Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8 & 10pm. Full programme: www.masimas.com/jamboree. See 1 Oct.

ReggaeSteel Pulse Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 8pm. €24 (on the door). €20 (advance). The legendary British roots reggae outfit.

World musicCaníbal Sound System Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Wed 12.30am. €12 incl. one drink (on the door). €10.80 (advance). World music club night with live acts and DJs.

Thursday 3 Classical musicGerhard Quartet Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M:

Day by day Information and sales:



Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7.30pm. €13. Performance by finalists in the “El Primer Palau” competition.

The art of the guitar: “Flamenco and Classical” Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm. €21. See 1 Oct.

Electronic musicNoisia + Foreign Beggars present I Am Legion: Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 8.30pm. €23 (on the door). €18 (advance). Rap meets electronica in this collaborative project.

Festa MajorFREE Festa Major de Les Corts Various streets. M: Les Corts (L3). 5-13 Oct. More information: www.bcn.cat/agenda. District-wide street festival with a range of activities.


Flamenco Palacio del Flamenco

(Balmes, 139). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) 7.15, 8.30 & 10.40pm.


OperaVerdi Bicentenary: “Rigoletto,” “Nabucco,” “Oberto” and other fragments Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. €8.50-€133.55. A celebration of Verdi’s greatest work to mark the bicentenary of his birth.

PopRevólver BARTS (Barcelona Arts on Stage) (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 9pm. €25 & €30. Veteran Spanish rocker Carlos Goñi and his band Révolver, with new album Enjoy.

Midnight Call Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Wed


12.30am. €14 (on the door). €13 (advance). ’70s & ’80s disco club night, with a hint of ’80s pop.

Friday 4 Blues

Friday Blues & Boogie-Woogie Piano Meeting at Palau Gomis MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm. €11. Reduced: €9. Enjoy a night of blues and a visit to the MEAM museum, located in a striking 18th-century palace.

Classical musicOBC Season Opening Concert L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Fri 4, 8.30pm. Sat 5, 7pm. Sun 6, 11am. €23-€51. The Barcelona Symphony and Catalan National Orchestra (OBC) opens their season with performances of Tchaikovsky’s “Romeo and Juliet” and Shostakovich’s cello concerto no. 1, among other works.

Masters of the Spanish Guitar. Manuel González Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €28-€32. Works by J. S. Bach, I. Albéniz, Paganini, J. Rodrigo and F. Tarrèga, among others.

Festa MajorFREE Festa Major de Sarrià Various streets. FGC: Sarrià (L6-L7). 4 – 10 Oct. More information: www.bcn.cat/agenda. FREE Festa Major d’Esquerra de l’Eixample Various streets. M: Hospital Clínic (L5). 2 - 12 Oct. More information: www.bcn.cat/agenda.

Flamenco Opera and Flamenco Teatre

Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 7pm. €30-€45. Innovative concept that brings together the Spanish traditions of opera, zarzuela and flamenco in a single show.

Tour The rooftops of Santa Maria del

Mar (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Mon-Sun, 1pm. Sat & Sun, 11am, 12am, 6pm & 7pm (Catalan, Spanish, English) Mon- Sun: 2pm, 3pm, 4pm & 5pm (English). €5 (general). €4 (reduced). More

information and reservations: Itinera Plus. Tel. 93 343 56 33. Discover a spectacular perspective on the medieval city from the roof of Santa Maria del Mar.

Saturday 5 Classical musicVallès Symphonic Orchestra Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7pm. €16-€65. Works by Morera, Toldrà and Beethoven.

OBC Season Opening Concert L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Fri 4, 8.30pm. Sat 5, 7pm. Sun 6, 11am. €23-€51. See 4 Oct.

Classical Saturdays at Palau Gomis MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm. €16. (includes museum entrance). Works by Bach, Handel, Mozart and Purcell.

Festa MajorFREE Festa Major d’Esquerra de l’Eixample Various streets. M: Hospital Clínic (L5). 2-12 Oct. More information: www.bcn.cat/agenda. FREE Festa Major de Sarrià Various streets. FGC: Sarrià (L6-L7). 4-10 Oct. More information: www.bcn.cat/agenda.


KidsNoah’s Ark CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). Sat 5.30pm & Sun 12pm. €6. (In Spanish) Theatre for the family, with animals taking centre stage, in a version of the Bible story. 4 years and older.

Pulcinella / Gaspare Nasuto Company El Born Centre Cultural (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I (L4) & Barceloneta (L4). 6pm. €5. Puppet show.

RockNeuman La [2]d’Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 111). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3).


8.30pm. €14 (on the door). €10 (advance). Spanish post-rockers present their latest EP “Bye Fear / Hi Love,” a collaboration with Ken Stringfellow (The Posies, R.E.M., Big Star).

Folk traditionsFREE Sardanas (Plaça de la Catedral). M: Jaume I (L4). Sat 6pm. Traditional Catalan dance.

Sunday 6 Classical musicOBC Season Opening Concert L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Fri 4, 8.30pm. Sat 5, 7pm. Sun 6, 11am. €23-€51. See 4 Oct.

Classical guitar at the Museu de la Música. The greatest collection in the world. Museu de la Música (L’Auditori. Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1) & Marina (L1). Tue-Sun 3.30 & 4pm. Guided visit and concert. €15. Reduced €13. See 1 Oct.

SportGarmin Barcelona Triathlon Platja de la Nova Icària (Pg. Marítim de la Nova Icària, 60). Times and info: www.garminbarcelonatriathlon.com. M: Llacuna (L4). One of the biggest triathlon events in Europe.

Football League fixture. FC Barcelona -

Valladolid Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). Time tbc.

KidsJoan’s moon / Nu theatre company Poble Espanyol (Av. de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). 12.30am. €12. Reduced: €7 More information: www.poble-espanyol.com. Theatre for all the family.

Teatime concert: chocolate El Born Centre Cultural (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I (L4) & Barceloneta (L4). 6pm. €5. A concert, conference and workshop for families.

OperaVerdi Bicentenary: “La Traviata,” “Il Trovatore,” “Stiffelio” and other

fragments Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. Sun 6 Oct, 6pm, Wed 9 Oct, 8pm. €8.50-€133.55. Excerpts from “La Traviata”, “Il Trovatore” and “Stiffelio,” among other works.

Folk traditionsFREE Sardanas (Plaça de la Catedral). M: Jaume I (L4). Sun 11.15am. Traditional Catalan dance. FREE Castellers (Pl. Comas). M: Les Corts (L3). Times: www.bcn.cat/agenda. Spectacular human towers, a Catalan tradition.

TourFREE Guided tour of Poble Nou Cemetery Cementiri de Poblenou (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). First Sunday of the month. 10.30am (Catalan) & 12.30pm (Spanish).

Monday 7Al fresco

Barcelona Urban Forest Barcelona Bosc Urbà (Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). €8 - €19 (prices vary depending on age and circuit chosen). Get some high-adrenaline exercise in an urban adventure park.



RockNasty Mondays Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Midnight until late. €15 (on the door). €14 (advance). In case you needed one, here’s your excuse to dance, sing and shout on a Monday night at the club night that mixes rock, pop, indie, garage, ’80s music and electro rock.

Tour The Gaudí Crypt at the Colònia

Güell (Claudi Güell, 6 - Santa Coloma de Cervelló). M: Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat from Pl. Espanya (FGC: S33, S8, S4). 10am-7pm. Sun, 10am-3pm. €9 (ticket price includes audio guide). €7.50 (reduced). See 1 Oct.


Tuesday 8Classical music


Festa MajorFREE Festa Major de Les Corts Various streets. M: Les Corts (L3). 5-13 Oct. More information: www.bcn.cat/agenda. See 3 Oct.



IndieCrappy Tuesdays Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 12am. €14 (on the door). €13 (advance). See 1 Oct.


Mar (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). See 4 Oct.

Wednesday 9 Classical musicOrquestra da Camera Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20-€82.Works by Bach, Schönberg and Mozart.

Festa MajorFREE Festa Major d’Esquerra de l’Eixample Various streets. 2-12 Oct. More information: www.bcn.cat/agenda.

Flamenco Opera and Flamenco Teatre

Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 7pm. €30-€45. See 4 Oct.

OperaVerdi Bicentenary: “La Traviata,” “Il Trovatore,” “Stiffelio” and other fragments Gran Teatre del Liceu (La

Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. Sun 6 Oct, 6pm, Wed 9 Oct, 8pm. €8.50-€133.55. See 6 Oct.

World musicCaníbal Sound System Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Wed 12.30am. €12 incl. one drink (on the door). €10.80 (advance). See 2 Oct.

Thursday 10Classical musicGerhard Quartet Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7.30pm. €13. See 3 Oct.

Lang Lang, piano L’Auditori Sala 1 Pau Casals (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 9pm. Star pianist Lang Lang plays works by Mozart and Chopin.

Indie-popShout Out Louds Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 20 h. €20 (on the door). €18 (advance). The Sweidsh indie-pop five piece.


PopMidnight Call Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 12.30am. €14 (on the door). 13 € (advance). See 3 Oct.

Friday 11 Classical musicThe OBC and the pines of Rome L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries

FREE!DOWNLOAD THE TIME OUT BCN GUIDE


(L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Fri 11, 8.30pm. Sat 12, 7pm. Sun. 13, 11 am. €23-€51 Works by Respigui and Saint-Saëns.

Musical tasting menu: Youkalis El Born Centre Cultural. Sala Moragues (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I (L4) & Barceloneta (L4). 9pm. €5. Live music in a historic setting.

Barcelona Percussion and the Cobla Sant Jordi L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 9pm. €20. The later works of composer Albert Carbonell.

Flamenco Gran gala de Flamenco Teatre

Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 7pm. €30-€45. See 2 Oct.

PopPablo Alborán Palau Sant Jordi (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). M: Espanya (L1, L3). 9pm. €20-€120. The Spanish singer-songwriter from Malaga in concert.

Saturday 12 BoogieBoogie with the Lluís Coloma Trio Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm & 9.30pm (double session). Cover: €8.

Classical music Morning concerts at the Palau.

Catalan and Spanish music Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 12pm. €25. The music of Falla, Albéniz, Granados, Toldrà and other composers in this unique setting.

Ensemble Concertanti Barcelona. Baroque music Església de Santa Maria del Pi (Cardenal Casañas, 16). M: Liceu (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 12, 18, 25 & 26 Oct. 9pm. €20. The best-known Baroque music: Vivaldi, Haendel, Corelli and Telemann.

Barcelona 4 Guitars Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €28-€32. Works by Albéniz, Bach, Tchaikovsky and Schubert, among others.


PopPablo Alborán Palau Sant Jordi (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). M: Espanya (L1-L3). 9pm. €20-€120. See 11 Oct.

Folk traditionsFREE Sardanas (Plaça de la Catedral). M: Jaume I (L4). Sat 6pm. See 6 Oct.

Sunday 13 Classical musicPalau Chamber Choir Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7pm. €13. Works by Schütz and Shostakovich.

Casals Quartet L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 7.30pm. €15. Works by Schubert.

OperaVerdi Bicentenary: “Aida,” “Macbeth,” “Ernani” and others Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. €8.50-€133.55. Third concert to mark the bicentenary of Verdi’s birth.


Flamenco Opera and Flamenco Palau de la

Música Catalana Petit Palau (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). 9.30pm. €30-€45. See 4 Oct.

KidsJoan’s moon / Nu theatre company Poble Espanyol (Av. de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). 12.30am. €12. Reduced: €7 More information: www.poble-espanyol.com. Theatre for all the family.


Folk traditionsFREE Sardanas (Plaça de la Catedral). M: Jaume I (L4). Sun 11.15 am. See 6 Oct.FREE Castellers (Pl. Comas). M: Les Corts (L3). Times: www.bcn.cat/agenda. See 6 Oct.

TourFREE Guided tour of Montjuïc Cemetery Cementiri de Montjuïc (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). 11am (Catalan) & 11.15am (Spanish). Guided tour of this huge cemetery on Montjuïc to discover the stories of some of the famous names buried here, as well as striking works of funerary art.

Monday 14 Flamenco

“Flamenco stars at El Cordobés” Tablao Flamenco Cordobés (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). 6.45, 8.15 & 11.30pm. €41 (show + one drink).

JazzWTF Jam Session Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Mon, 8pm. €5 (on the door). €4 (website). See 7 Oct.

PopMiguel Bosé Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 9pm. €28-€110. The veteran singer offers a recital with some new arrangements of his greatest hits in this lavish setting for this end-of-tour show.

RockNasty Mondays Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Midnight until late. €15 (on the door). €14 (advance). See 7 Oct.


Mar (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). Mon-Sun, 1pm. Sat & Sun, 11am, 12am, 6pm & 7pm (Catalan, Spanish, English) Mon- Sun: 2pm, 3pm, 4pm & 5pm (English). €5 (general). €4 (reduced). More info and reservations: Itinera Plus. Tel. 93 343 56 33. See 4 Oct.



Flamenco “Flamenco stars at El Cordobés”

Tablao Flamenco Cordobés (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). 6.45, 8.15 & 11.30pm. €41 (show + one drink).

JazzDoc Scanlon’s Cats Combo Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm & 9.30pm (double session). Cover charge: €8. Live jazz in a cocktail bar at the centre of Barcelona.

Tour The Gaudí Crypt at

the Colònia Güell (Claudi Güell, 6 - Santa Coloma de Cervelló). M: Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat from Pl.

Espanya (FGC: S33, S8, S4). 10am-7pm. Sun,

10am-3pm. €9 (ticket price includes audio guide). €7.50

(reduced). See 1 Oct.

Wednesday 16 Classical music


Flamenco Great Flamenco Gala Palau de la

Música Catalana Petit Palau (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9.30pm. €20-€48. See 6 Oct.

Jazz Jazz concerts Jamboree (Pl. Reial,

17). M: Liceu (L3). 8 & 10pm. Full programme: www.masimas.com/

Every October

Sunday in Poble

Espanyol you have a

chance to meet Joan

and his dad thanks

to the Nu theatre

company. A story of

growing up.


jamboree. Concerts in the legendary basement jazz club.


Mar (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). See 4 Oct.

Thursday 17 Classical Gerhard Quartet Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7.30pm. €13. See 3 Oct.

The art of the guitar: “Bcn Guitar Duo. Carmen” Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm. €21. With music by Albéniz, Granados, Rodrigo & Tàrrega.


OperaVerdi Bicentenary: “Aida,” “Macbeth,” “Ernani” and others Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. €8.50-€133.55. See 13 Oct.

PopMidnight Call Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 12.30am. €14 (on the door). €13 (advance). See 3 Oct.

Friday 18 Blues

Friday Blues & Boogie-Woogie Piano Meeting at the Palau Gomis MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm €11. Reduced: €9. See 4 Oct.

Classical musicThe OBC and the genius of Schubert L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1).


Fri 18, 8.30pm. Sat 19, 7pm. Sun 20, 11am. €23-€51. Schubert’s symphony in C major – known as the Great.

Barcelona 4 Guitars Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €28-€32. Works by Albéniz, Bach, Tchaikovsky and Schubert, among others.

Ensemble Concertanti Barcelona. Baroque music Església de Santa Maria del Pi (Cardenal Casañas, 16). M: Liceu (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 12, 18, 25 & 26 Oct. 9pm. €20. The best-known Baroque music: Vivaldi, Haendel, Corelli and Telemann.



PopMelendi Palau Sant Jordi (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). M: Espanya (L1,L3). 9pm. €22-€38. Hugely popular Spanish pop artist whose style mixes rock, rumba and romance ends his current tour in spectacular style.

SoulSinead Savage Trio Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm & 9.30pm (double session). Cover charge: €8. Live soul in a cocktail bar at the centre of Barcelona.

Saturday 19 FoodGastropop: communal Barbecue Poble Espanyol (Av. de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). 11am-6pm. More infoand prices: www.poble-espanyol.com. Food festival.

Indie-RockThe Mountain Goats La [2]d’Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 111). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 8pm. €20 (on the door). €15 (advance). Legendary US indie rockers led by frontman John Dannielle present their latest album “Transcendental Youth”.

Jazz45th Voll-Damm Barcelona Jazz Festival: Saxophone Summit Teatre-Auditori Sant Cugat (Pl. de la Victòria dels Àngels, 1. Sant Cugat del Vallès (Barcelona). FGC: Sant Cugat. 9pm. €24. Joe Lovano, Dave Liebman and Ravi Coltrane show why they’re three of the most free-spirited and creative saxophonists of the 21st century.

KidsNoah’s Ark CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). Sat 5.30pm & Sun 12pm. €6. (In Spanish) See 5 Oct.

OperaVerdi Bicentenary: “Don Carlos,” “Otello,” “Falstaff” and others Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. €8.50-€133.55. Final concert to mark the bicentenary of the birth of Verdi with fragments of some of his best-known works.

Sunday 20 Classical music


Wagner with wind instruments L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 6pm. €14. Works by Wagner, Rimski-Korsakov and Ferrer Ferran.

Monday 21 Al fresco

Barcelona Urban Forest Barcelona Bosc Urbà (Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). €8 - €19 (prices vary depending on age and circuit chosen). See 7 Oct.

OperaVerdi Bicentenary: “Don Carlos,” “Otello,” “Falstaff” and others Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. €8.50-€133.55. See 19 Oct.



The art of the guitar: “Bcn Guitar Duo. Carmen” Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm. €21. With music by Albéniz, Granados, Rodrigo and Tàrrega.



Jazz45th Voll-Damm Barcelona Jazz Festival: the Monvínic Experience with Ravi Coltrane Monvínic (Diputació, 249). M: Pg. de Gràcia (L2-L3-L4). 8.30pm. Saxophonist Ravi Coltrane stars in a unique experience that blends jazz with the best wines at Monvínic, a temple to the products of the vine.

Wednesday 23JazzJazz concerts Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8 & 10pm. Full programme: www.masimas.com/jamboree. See 1 Oct.

Thursday 24BluesRhythm & blues with Dani Nel·lo & Mario Cobo Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm & 9.30pm (double session). Cover charge: €8.

Classical musicGerhard Quartet Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7.30pm. €13. See 3 Oct.


Tablao Flamenco Cordobés (La Rambla,


35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). 6.45, 8.15 & 11.30pm. €41 (show + one drink).

PopMidnight Call Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 12.30am. €14 (on the door). 13 € (advance). See 3 Oct.

Friday 25Blues

Friday Blues & Boogie-Woogie Piano Meeting at the Palau Gomis MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm €11. Reduced: €9. See 4 Oct.

ClassicalThe OBC and Mozart’s clarinet concerto L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Fri 25, 8.30pm. Sat. 26: 7pm. Sun 27, 11am. €23-€51. Works by Mozart & Schubert.

Electronic musicDNIT at CaixaForum: Korelss + DJ Rashad & Spinn CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). 10pm. €6. New sounds in electronic music.

Indie-Rock!!! (Chk Chk Chk) Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 8pm. €25 (on the door). €22 (advance). US dance-punk groovers !!! (pronounced “chk chk chk”) present new disc Thr!!!er.

Jazz45th Voll-Damm Barcelona Jazz Festival: Dianne Reeves Teatre-Auditori Sant Cugat (Pl. de la Victòria dels Àngels, 1. Sant Cugat del Vallès (Barcelona). FGC: Sant Cugat. 9pm. €40. Considered one of the most exquisite vocalists in modern jazz.

Pop-rockEls Pets BARTS (Barcelona Arts on Stage) (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 9pm. €18 & €24. After a two-year sabbatical, one of the biggest bands in Catalan rock is back with a new album and a new tour.

Saturday 26BoogieBoogie with Lluís Coloma Trio Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm & 9.30pm (double session). Cover charge: €8.

Classical music Classical Saturdays at Palau

Gomis MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm. €16. (includes museum entrance). Piano arrangements of great film scores.

Masters of the Spanish Guitar. Ekaterina Záytseva Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €28-€32. Works by J. S. Bach, I. Albéniz, Paganini, J. Rodrigo and F. Tarrèga, among others.



FolkSenyors tranquil El Born Centre Cultural (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I (L4) & Barceloneta (L4). 9pm. €5. The Catalan singer-songwriter duo perform folk and pop songs.

Sunday 27Classical musicBarcelona Municipal Band. Swan Lake L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 11.30am. €14. Works by Tchaikovsky, Bretón, Appermont, Johan de Meij and Gaos.

Philippe Jaroussky in Concert Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 5pm. €8.50-€101.25. The countertenor accompanied by the Venice Baroque Orchestra.

Football League fixture. FC Barcelona -

Real Madrid Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). Time tbc. The eternal rivals


clash in one of the most hotly anticipated spectacles in Spanish football.

Indie-RockFoals Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 8pm. €25. British indie rockers present their critically-acclaimed third release, “Holy Fire”.

Monday 28Jazz45th Voll-Damm Barcelona Jazz Festival: Michael Feinstein Conservatori del Liceu (Nou de la Rambla, 88). M: Liceu (L3). 8.30pm. €30. The ultimate ambassador of the Great American Songbook, where jazz meets Broadway and film scores, debuts in Barcelona with new album “Change of Heart”.

Rock65DaysOfStatic La [2]d’Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 111). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 20 h. €19 (on the door). €15 (advance). Post-rock band 65DaysOfStatic presents their new album, “Silent Running”.

Tuesday 29Flamenco

“Flamenco stars at El Cordobés” Tablao Flamenco Cordobés (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). 6.45, 8.15 & 11.30pm. €41 (show + one drink).


Wednesday 30Classical music


Jazz45th Voll-Damm Barcelona Jazz Festival: Chucho Valdés & The Afro-Cuban Messengers Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1-L4). 9pm. €18-€48. Chucho Valdés digs deep into the roots of Cuban music, linking its African heritage with Native American traditions.

Thursday 31Classical musicThe art of the guitar: “Bcn Guitar Duo. Carmen” Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, 29). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). 9pm. €21. With music by Albéniz, Granados, Rodrigo and Tàrrega.

Indie45th Voll-Damm Barcelona Jazz Festival: Tindersticks BARTS (Barcelona Arts on Stage) (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 9pm. €25-€36. With a 21-year career behind them, the orchestral, soulful indie veterans present new album. “Across Six Leap Years”.

Jazz45th Voll-Damm Barcelona Jazz Festival: Joan Chamorro presents Eva Fernández Luz de Gas (Muntaner, 244). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) & FGC: Gràcia (L6-L7). 9pm. €15-€20. Chamorro presents the debut as a soloist of one of the rising stars of the Sant Andreu Jazz Band, saxophonist Eva Fernández.

PopMidnight Call Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 12.30am. €14 (on the door). 13 € (advance). ’70s & ’80s disco club night, with a hint of ’80s pop.

INFORMATION AND SALES



SightsArchitectureBasílica de la Sagrada Familia The Basilica of the Holy Family (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5). 93 20 804 14. Oct-Mar 9am-6pm. €13.50. Guided tour/audio guide, €18. Barcelona’s most iconic architectural monument, began by Antoni Gaudí in 1891 and remains unfinished. Ticket sales help fund ongoing construction of Spain’s most visited tourist attraction.

Casa Batlló (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L3,L4). 93 216 03 06. 9am-9pm. €20.35. Late-night visit, €29. Last admission: 8pm. One of Gaudí’s most emblematic works. Tours include the first floor, originally the Batlló family residence, the roof terrace with its decorated chimneys (and scaly spine of the dragon St George defeated), the light well, and the stunning entrance hall and the main staircase.

La Pedrera (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3,L5). 902 400 973. 1 Mar-4 Nov, 9am-8pm. Last admission: 7.30pm. €16.50. Reduced: €14.85. Many Barcelona residents consider this Gaudí’s masterpiece. Some of its apartments are still private homes, and the roof terrace is one of Catalan Modernisme’s hidden gems.

Palau Güell (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). 93 472 57 75. Tue-Sun 10am-5,30pm. Last admission: 4.30pm. €10. Reduced: €8. Built by Gaudí in the late 19th century, this palace belonged to his principal patron. As at the Pedrera, a visit to the roof terrace is highly recommended. The whole house is a fascinating introduction to Gaudí’s revolutionary use of materials and space.

Leisure Poble Espanyol

(Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya L1-L3). T. 935 086 300. Mon 9am-8pm; Tue-Thu 9am-2am; Fri 9am-4am; Sat 9am-5am; Sun 9am-

midnight. €11. €6.25. Open-air museum on Montjuïc that features reproductions of streets, squares and buildings found around Spain.

Imax Port Vell (Moll d’Espanya). M: Drassanes (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). 93 225 11 11. Times & programme; www.imaxportvell.com. €9.75. Put on your glasses and take a seat for the most exciting virtual reality experience that the latest 3-D technology can provide, in Barcelona’s best-equipped large-format cinema.

Gaudí Experiència (Larrard, 41). M: Lesseps (L3). 93 285 44 40. 10am-6pm. €9. Reduced: €7.50. An interactive voyage with 4-D technology through the creative universe of the genius of Modernist architecture, Antoni Gaudí. A new way to discover Gaudí and his work.

Tibidabo Funfair (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). T. 93 211 79 42. Until 3 Mar, open weekends and public hols. Times and info: www.tibidabo.cat. €28.50 (under 120cm, €10.50). With over 100 years of history, Tibidabo is one of the oldest funfairs in the world, featuring classic rides, old favourites and brand-new attractions to guarantee an exciting day out.

PortAventura theme park (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Km. 2. Vila Seca (Tarragona)). Train: Port Aventura. T. 977 779 000. Times and prices: www.portaventura.es. Located south of Barcelona, between Vila-seca and Salou, PortAventura boasts six themed zones (Mediterranean, Far West, Mexico, China, Polynesia & SésamoAventura) that occupy 119 hectares, with 30 attractions, 100 live processions every day, 75 places to eat and 27 craft and souvenir shops.

Barcelona Zoo (Parc de la Ciutadella, s/n). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 93 225 67 80. 30 Sep - 31 Dec 10am-5pm. €19.60. Children (3-12): €11.80. Barcelona Zoo has a 100-year history and is one of the city’s best-loved attractions. It currently houses 315 species and over 2,000 animals.

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