official newsletter of the german wirehaired pointer club ... · german shorthaired pointer club of...
TRANSCRIPT
Officers & Board Members 1
Informational Web Sites 1
Membership/Members 2-6
Rescue 7-12
The Haven Kennel 13
Upcoming Field Events 14
Upcoming Show Events 15
The Forced Retrieve 16-18
Health Care Tips 19
Whelping Management 20-22
To Crush or Not to Crush 23
How Contagious is Parvo 24
Food Foes 25-26
Official Newsletter of the German Wirehaired Pointer Club of Northern California
Warm Weather Training 27
Thunder Storm Phobias 28
Toot Your Dog's Horn 29-39
The Drentsche Patrijshond 39-42
Get Well 43
A Good Read 44
Keeping Your Dog Cool 45
Litter Announcements 46-48
Cooking with Cindy 49
Picture Humor 50
Funny Bones 51
The End 52
July/August 2011 Edition
What's Inside
They are our friends, our partners, our defenders, our dogs.
We are their lives, their loves, their leaders.
They will be ours, faithful and true, to the last beat of their hearts.
We owe it to them to be worthy of such devotion.
1
Informational Web Sites
AKC American Kennel Club www.akc.org
GWPA German Wirehaired Pointer Club of America www.gwpca.com
GWPCNC German Wirehaired Pointer Club of N. California www.gwpcnc.9f.com
NAVHDA N. American Versatile Hunting Dog Association www.navhda.org
OFA Orthopedic Foundation For Animals www.offa.org
VHDF Versatile Hunting Dog Federation www.vhdf.org
2011 Club Officers
President Dr. Cindy Heiller, DVM
(707) 528-2725/2627
Vice President
Randy Berry
(707) 344-1230
Secretary
Debbie Lewis
(707) 447-1172
Treasurer
Diane Marsh
(916) 774-0770
2011 Board Members Silke Alberts
(707) 644-8068
Theresa Bonini
(650) 207-8365
Kathi Boyd
925-980-0864
Rob Lewis
(707) 447-1172
Francis Marsh
916-774-0770
Club Website:
www.gwpcnc.9f.com
Kathy Kimberlin
Web Master
Club Newsletter:
Wire Tails
Diane Marsh
Editor
2
Welcome
New Members:
Fawn Adams and her handsome man Whiskey. Fawn says that Whiskey is gun
shy, so his toy duck is the only bird he will be bringing back. He might
surprise her one day!!!
3
Rose, Henry, Gilly & Norman Bonini
(AKA "The Rats"
Official Quail flushing bird dogs!!!
Gunner Padilla after puppy class (sleepy boy) Gunner's first point!!
His mom, Debbie was handling. Way to go Debbie & Gunner!
4
George Juarez and his grandson, Anthony, out for a training session. Oh yes, Rueger
came along to "fetch up" the birds. Anthony is a fantastic shot. A very promising young gun-
ner for hunt tests and field trials. Anthony is only 16, but with a few lessons from Gary Bonini
he was knocking all of the live birds and clay ones out of the sky!
5
We did splash dogs again this year at the Sonoma County Fair. Sorry these pictures are so great and I lost my
flash drive with the remaining pictures. However Flirt, on the left, took a 1st place and Hope, on the right, took
a second place. We will all get better next year. Maybe more dogs and members can join us. Scott Heiller and
his friends, Joe and Mel, along with several of Cindy's church members came to cheer us on!
Rylee with her mom, Aimee, were out with Pierre Urrutia for a handling lesson. Rylee, Deb and
Rob Lewis' granddaughter, whose first word was "dog," is only two, but she is ready to run
those dogs.
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I dont' know how Ann Duffin had the time to teach her puppies that when they are bad they
need to go to the corner for a "Time Out".
They next time a get a puppy, I am really going to consider sending it to Ann for "corner"
time out training.
Puppies were born on June 13, 2011
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Please check back frequently for GWP's in need of re-homing. You may also wish to check www.petfinder.com and the National site, www.gwpca.com for available (and appreciative) GWP's
GWPCNC Rescue places Wirehairs who find themselves in need of a new forever home. Prior to being released for adoption, these GWP's will have been examined by a Veterinarian, had any necessary medical treatment, spayed or neutered, and, if over 6 months old, tested for Heartworm. All vaccinations will have been updated and all Res-cues, puppies included, are micro-chipped prior to adoption.
Each will be assessed to determine the best possible opportunities for a successful placement.
Many of our dogs have had basic obedience training and have been family members. Their age ranges from puppy to senior. They come with all manner of life experiences and levels of training, from lonely isolated back yard dogs to finished show champions and personal hunting companions, and everything in between.
Dr. Cindy Heiller, DVM, is the GWPCNC Rescue Chairman. She may be reached via email: [email protected] or by phone at The Haven Kennel: (707) 528-2627.
GWPCNC RESCUE
They may not always need to be rescued from a burning build-
ing, but they do need to be rescued.
These are not throwaway dogs. Most are turned into shelters
because their humans love them but can no longer care for
them. There are many remarkable, loving GWP's just waiting
for someone like you to give them a chance.
Please look into your heart and checkbook to help us give them
that chance.
Thank You
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GWP's in need of re-homing may also be viewed at:
www.gwpcnc.9f.com (German Wirehaired Pointer Club of Northern CA Club)
www.thehavenkennel.8m.com (Dr. Heiller's Kennel in Santa Rosa, CA)
www.gwpca.com (National GWP Organization; the GWP Parent Club)
www.petfinder.com (A national animal rescue group)
PILOTS and PAWS
PILOTS and PAWS is an organization with a mission of mercy--to save animals in shelters from death
row. Pilots donate their time, planes, and fuel to transport animals from overcrowded shelters to rescue
g PILOTS and PAWS works entirely on volunteerism and donations via its website:
http://pilotsnpaws.org/ More rescue tales, videos, maps, and news articles may be viewed on the site.
2011 ADOPTEES Our Rescue dogs have had a second chance at a "forever" home, thanks to the wonderful
families who have taken the time and the opportunity to adopt them! In turn, the families
receive boundless appreciation from the adoptees! What a great combination!
FEBRUARY, 2011: SIMON, a 2 year old male picked up as a stray in Lassen County and turned over to the GWPCNC
Rescue, flew by private jet to his new home in Southern CA.
LITTLE JACK, a 2 year old male, also found his new home!
BIG JACK, as a new home in Reno, Nevada with a playmate named Jill!
MARCH, 2011 Sherry (renamed Sami ) as a wonderful new home in Reno with a play mate named Chico.
Shelby, now lives in Santa Maria with a retired couple that love her
APRIL, 2011 Scout the toy-loving one year old female, has been adopted! She accumulated 7 applications dur
ing her 10 days in Rescue! CHEWY, sister to Nikki, was adopted as a welcome family companion.
LUKE, the 11 year old GSP/GWP mix, was adopted by his foster family!
JUNE 2011: DAKOTA, the 5 year old neutered male who lost his home to foreclosure found a companion!
MAX, a 6 year old altered well-socialized family dog whose family could not take him with them
when they moved, found his new home in Washington.
JULY 2011: NIKKI, has found a loving home in Southern California
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STILL LOOKING FOR A FOREVER HOME:
MARCH, 2011: KITTY is a spayed 2 year old female looking
for a family of her own.
MAY 1, 2011: CASEY, a 10 year old well-socialized spayed
GWP female, is seeking a comfortable home and loving
companionship, and possibly a bit of hunting, as well.
JUNE, 2011: LOGAN is a 6 year old neutered male seeking
just the right home.
see pictures of these loving animals below:
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Still Looking for a Forever Home
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Still Looking for a Forever Home
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Still Looking for a Forever Home
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3953 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95401.
Phone: (707) 528-2627
The Haven is also the headquarters for the Northern California German Wire-
haired Pointer Rescue Program
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Upcoming Field Events
Sutter Buttes Pointing Dog Club Event Number: 2011230206
Event Status: Pended
Smartsville, CA FT Sep 16, 2011
Field Trial Opening Date: No Date Available Closing Date: No Date Available Time Zone: No Time Zone Available Number of Days:
California Brittany Club Event Number: 2011147205
Event Status: Approved
New Cuyama, CA FT Oct 28, 2011
Field Trial Opening Date: Sep 6, 2011 12:00:00 AM Closing Date: Oct 19, 2011 02:00:00 PM Time Zone: PACIFIC Number of Days: 3
Golden Gate Gordon Setter Club Event Number: 2011310404
Event Status: Pended
Santa Nella, CA FT Nov 5, 2011
Field Trial Opening Date: Oct 1, 2011 12:00:00 Closing Date: Oct 29, 2011 05:00:00 Time Zone: PACIFIC Number of Days: 2
German Wirehaired Pointer Club of Southern California
Event Number: 2011152303
Event Status: Pended
California City, CA FT Nov 11, 2011
Field Trial Opening Date: Sep 1, 2011 12:00:00 Closing Date: Nov 4, 2011 06:00:00 Number of Days: 3
San Francisco Bay Weimaraner Club Event Number: 2011296806
Event Status: Approved
Rio Vista, CA HT Sep 3, 2011
Hunting Test Opening Date: No Date Available Closing Date: Aug 25, 2011 08:00:00
San Francisco Bay Weimaraner Club Event Number: 2011296807
Event Status: Approved
Rio Vista, CA HT Sep 4, 2011
Hunting Test Opening Date: No Date Available Closing Date: Aug 25, 2011 08:00:00
German Shorthaired Pointer Club of San Diego
Event Number: 2011150901 Event Status: Approved
San Diego , CA HT Oct 22, 2011
Hunting Test Opening Date: No Date Available Closing Date: Oct 17, 2011 07:00:00
German Shorthaired Pointer Club of San Diego
Event Number: 2011150902 Event Status: Approved
San Diego , CA HT Oct 23, 2011 Hunting Test Opening Date: No Date Available Closing Date: Oct 17, 2011 07:00:00
German Shorthaired Pointer Club of Southern California
Event Number: 2011072503 Event Status: Approved
Rosamond, CA HT Oct 29, 2011 Oct. 30, 2011
Hunting Test Opening Date: No Date Available Closing Date: Oct 24, 2011 12:00:00
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Upcoming Dog Shows
Gold Country Kennel Club
Event Number: 2011504201
Event Status: Approved
Grass Valley,
CA
AB / O / JSHW
Sep 3, 2011 & Sep. 4, 2011
Aug 17, 2011
Redwood Empire Kennel Club Event Number: 2011164801
Event Status: Approved
Petaluma, CA
AB / O / JSHW
Sep 10, 2011 & Sep. 11, 2011
Aug 24, 2011
Sir Francis Drake Kennel Club, Inc Event Number: 2011044601
Event Status: Approved
Vallejo, CA
AB / JSHW
Sep 17, 2011 & Sep. 18. 2011
Aug 31, 2011
Santa Ana Valley Kennel Club, Inc. Event Number: 2011046801
Event Status: Approved
Cerritos, CA
AB / O / JSHW
Sep 24, 2011 & Sep. 25, 2011
Sep 7, 2011
Burbank Kennel Club
Event Number: 2011467401
Event Status: Approved
Van Nuys, CA
AB / JSHW
Oct 1, 2011 & Oct. 2, 2011
Sep 14, 2011
Donner Trail Kennel Club, Inc.
Event Number: 2011001001
Event Status: Approved
Roseville,
CA AB / JSHW
Oct 8, 2011 & October 9, 2011
Sep 21, 2011
Two Cities Kennel Club Event Number: 2011059801
Event Status: Approved
Yuba City, CA
AB / O / JSHW Oct 15, 2011 & Oct. 16, 2011
Sep 28, 2011
Skyline Dog Fanciers of San Mateo County
Event Number: 2011255501 Event Status: Approved
Pleasanton, CA
AB / O / JSHW Oct 20, 2011 Sep 28, 2011
Sacramento Valley Dog Fanciers Assoc. Inc.
Event Number: 2011223202
Dixon, CA AB / O / JSHW Oct 29, 2011 & Oct. 30, 2011
Oct 12, 2011
For additional information on Conformation Shows, go to the American
Kennel Club Website, www.AKC.org and search the Events section.
16
The Forced Retrieve
by Dave Carty - Gun Dog Magazine
Force breaking isn’t always fun, but it works.
Do you really need to force break your dog? I don‘t have an easy answer to that question. What I do
have, however, are situations. There was a time when I thought all pointing dogs should be force broken. (The
politically correct term these days is ―conditioned retrieve,‖ but I‘m a crotchety geezer, so ―force breaking‖ it
will be.) After all, virtually every pro Lab trainer in the country force breaks his dogs, and Labs are a breed with
more drive to retrieve per cubic inch than any other animal on earth.
The Lab guys‘ rationale is control. Lab guys know that sooner or later their dog will either refuse a re-
trieve or concoct some weird variation of a retrieve that requires a correction, and force breaking allows them to
do that. Proponents of natural retrieving, on the other hand, claim that force breaking can ruin a dog‘s drive. But
among the pointing dogs I‘ve force broken and all the dogs I‘ve seen other competent trainers force break, I‘ve
yet to see that happen.
That isn‘t the whole story, though. This summer, two of the dogs I trained were natural retrievers. This
was a pleasant surprise after training dogs for years that had no desire to retrieve at all. I didn‘t have sufficient
time to force break the first, a Brittany. The second, an English pointer I own, was retrieving so well I decided
to run with it. Both are now in their first season, and both seem to be developing into fairly reliable, natural re-
trievers. But during my annual trip to Wisconsin this past autumn, Tango, my pointer, began refusing wood-
cock. That‘s not unusual–many dogs seem to dislike the quirky bird‘s taste–but if I‘d force broken her, I could
have corrected that minor flaw then and there. As it was, I was out of luck.
Still, if force breaking almost always works, why not do it with every dog you train, regardless of natu-
ral ability? By and large, that‘s what I do. But consider this: Force breaking is simply not much fun. The dog
hates it, most trainers hate it and it takes a long time. If you have a dog that retrieves naturally, it may be worth
an occasional refused retrieve to save yourself the hassle. But only you can make that decision.
If you decide to go the force-breaking route, here‘s how I do it. My way is by no means the last word on
the subject; I‘ve borrowed techniques from a number of different sources.
Start with a wooden dowel. Note the ear pinch
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How To:
Here‘s what you‘ll need: a one-inch wooden dowel six or eight inches long; a couple retrieving bum-
pers, one small and one large; several dead, frozen pigeons; and a supply of live birds. A bench or table that
raises the dog off the ground is handy but not absolutely necessary. Most important, you‘ll need time. Figure six
weeks minimum; two months or even longer is likely.
Start with your dog on the bench, if you have one. I‘ve got a pair of vertical two-by-fours screwed to
either end of my bench, one of which I use to secure the dog‘s head with a short lead. Tying his head isn‘t man-
datory, but it will sure make your job easier.
First, get him used to the idea of holding the dowel in his mouth. Pry open his mouth with your thumb,
insert the dowel and command ―hold it.‖ Then stroke him under the chin to keep his head up while you repeat
the command. After a few seconds, let him spit it into your hand on the command ―give.‖ He‘ll be happy to get
rid of it. Do this for several days, stroking his chin until he starts to relax. Don‘t let him lower his head or spit
out the dowel before you ask for it, and don‘t let him sit. After returning the dog to the bench, introduce differ-
ent objects, including dead birds.
Now comes the hard part. Hold the dowel in front of the dog‘s mouth, grasp his collar and ear with
one hand, lay his ear over the buckle on his collar and press his ear into the buckle with your thumb. Then say
―fetch.‖ He‘s not going to like this and will probably fight you; that‘s why you have his head tied to the post.
When he finally opens his mouth to complain, push the dowel in and immediately release the pressure on his
ear. Follow that with the ―hold it‖ command while you stroke his chin, and follow that with the ―give‖ com-
mand when he spits the bumper into your hand.
Some dogs won‘t open their mouths no matter how hard you pinch their ear, and others will scream
bloody murder. If so, you‘ll have to ratchet up the pressure. Try pressing your thumbnail, rather than the pad of
your thumb, into the dog‘s ear (again, against the collar buckle). The minute the dog opens its mouth to howl, I
shove the dowel in. Congratulations; you‘re now over the worst of it. Unfortunately, the rest of the process isn‘t
exactly a bed of roses, either.
Once your pup is voluntarily grabbing the dowel without ear pressure, hold it a few inches from his nose
and make him reach for it. If that flies, lower the dowel a few inches; your eventual goal is to get him to pick it
up off the bench. Apply ear pressure as needed, but he should now understand that refusing to open his mouth
results in ear pressure, so give him the option to do it without pressure first. When he‘ll pick up the dowel off
the bench on command, you‘re halfway home.
Put your pup on a check cord, take him off the bench, place the dowel on the ground in front of him and
grab his ear. Give him the command to ―fetch.‖ He‘ll refuse, so pinch his ear and force his head to the dowel.
For some reason, it usually helps to keep your fingers on the dowel, perhaps lifting one end off the ground so he
can grab it easily. Eventually, you‘ll be able to remove your hand and toss the dowel a few feet in front of him,
increasing the distance until he‘s making retrieves at 20 or 30 feet. Keep him on the check cord, and if he refus-
es, haul him in, pinch his ear and lead him to the bird. Don‘t be surprised if your pup retrieves nicely for a few
days and then quits. They all do that. Keep after it until he‘s retrieving more often than not.
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Transition from dowels to small retrieving dummies. Touch the dummy or lift it slightly when first tran-
sitioning from the bench to the ground.
Follow Up: Now is the time to go back to the bench and introduce bumpers and birds. You‘ll go through exactly the
same process with each new item: the ear pinch followed by the ―fetch,‖ ―hold it‖ and ―give‖ commands. Start
with a small plastic or canvas bumper, then transition to a large plastic or canvas bumper and finally to a frozen
pigeon.
Expect the dog to refuse both the large bumper and frozen pigeon, but don‘t quit now. When he‘ll hold
any object you present to him, it‘s time to take him back off the bench and into the yard. Start with a large bum-
per and finish with a frozen pigeon. Throw the bumper or dead pigeon, give him the ―fetch‖ command, and be
ready to reinforce a refusal with an ear pinch. Note: Most dead pigeons are good for only a few days in hot
weather, so you‘ll probably need at least a half dozen of them. Don‘t use a bloody, chewed-up bird. The dog
will be much more amenable to retrieving if the bird is reasonably fresh.
Somewhere around this time you may discover that your dog has actually begun to enjoy the process–
retrieving birds is fun! Either way, once he‘s reliably fetching dead pigeons, capitalize on your momentum by
shooting some live birds over him–I typically shoot 10 to 15 birds to finish the process. If you‘re lucky he‘ll
retrieve them all without an ear pinch; but it‘s more likely he won‘t, so keep your thumb loaded and resting
lightly in your holster.
You‘ve made it! But before you crack open a celebratory beer, you‘ve still got some work ahead of you.
In the field, most force-broken dogs refuse their first few freshly killed gamebirds, so be ready to apply a quick,
remedial ear pinch. Never, ever give your pup the option of not retrieving and he‘ll eventually accept it as part
of his job.
And that, in my opinion, is exactly as it should be.
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Health Care Tips for Older Gun Dogs by Dave Carty•July 27, 2011• Gun Dog Magazine
Your best friend is getting older and whines terribly each time you leave home without him. But do you really
need to retire a hunting dog at age nine, 10 or 11? Assuming he‘s physically sound, there‘s no reason a dog
can‘t hunt through most of his golden years. But for his safety and your peace of mind, you have to make sure
he‘s as healthy as he can be. Here are some health care tips for older gun dogs.
The first thing to do is get his weight under control. Like
people, dogs tend to pack on a few pounds later in life and, also like people, that extra weight slows them down
and can lead to all kinds of physical problems.
You‘ll need to do two things to get him to lose weight. The first, and most important, is to continue to
exercise him. Take him for runs every other day during the off season, let him play an exhausting game of fetch
or take him for a swim. Physical activity will keep him happy and his joints functioning.
Then, if he‘s overweight, monitor his diet. Senior formulas are high in protein, low in fat and have other
additives that promote joint flexibility and overall health in older animals. But whether you feed him a senior
formula or continue his regular food, cut back his portions. He‘ll beg for more, but you‘re not doing him any
favors by feeding him until he waddles.
Another important health issue in dogs, and one many overlook, is good oral health. This is true with all
dogs, but particularly true with older animals. Bacteria from tartar on their teeth can cause all kinds of prob-
lems, including gum disease, painful chewing and even heart problems. Buy a dental scraper and learn to clean
your dog‘s teeth yourself, or have your vet do it once or twice a year. When you see a yellow-brown buildup on
your dog‘s teeth, or his breath starts to sour, you‘ll know it‘s time for another cleaning.
Finally, use care when you hunt him. Many older dogs still have the drive they had when they were
puppies, but their bodies can no longer stand the pounding they get from a day spent in the uplands or on a
marsh. Hunt him a couple hours, then rest him for a day or two before you hunt him again. You‘ll both be hap-
pier, and he‘ll be raring to go on your next trip.
20
Whelping Management
by Melinda Fleming, DVM
Even for experienced breeders, whelping can be a very stressful experience, especially when dealing with a new
mother-to-be. Concerns can escalate when the anticipated event seems to be late in starting or past due. The im-
portance of knowing the time of ovulation, as closely as possible, is essential to have a predictable date for
when whelping might occur. This is even more vital when planning cesarean sections for certain breeds.
The duration of gestation is an average of 63 days in all breeds. However, if breeders begin calculating the date
of whelping based on the time of actual mating there can be a variable of up to 10 days! This timing is referred
to as ―apparent‖ duration of gestation, and does not correlate to the ―actual‖ duration, which will be approx-
imately 63 days from the date when fertilization of the eggs occurred. To have a more accurate idea of when
whelping may occur, it is important to work with a veterinarian to discuss appropriate diagnostics. These will
most likely include blood tests such as progesterone and luteinizing hormone assays to help predict ovulation,
and ultrasound to detect embryos early in the pregnancy.
The apparent duration of pregnancy can vary consi-
derably, depending on the mating date in relation to
ovulation. The actual duration however is 62 to 64
days after ovulation.
Physical Indicators
There are a number of signs exhibited by the mother that whelping is imminent. It is a good idea to carefully
trim the hair from around the nipples and the perineum to aid in monitoring some of these signs. Milk appearing
in the teats usually occurs one week prior to whelping but this is not a reliable indicator. Dogs that have had
previous litters may develop milk sooner than a first-time mother whose milk may not appear until after deli-
very. The breeder may also notice that the dog‘s vulva is distended, and within 24 hours of whelping there may
be a clear to milky discharge that stems from the release of the cervical mucus plug. The latter sign may not be
noticeable so is not very reliable. However, the appearance of dark green discharge from the vulva, due to the
beginning of placental detachment, warrants careful observation for the start of whelping.
21
When the predicted date of whelping is near, it is helpful to know that the mother‘s rectal temperature will drop
one to two degrees Fahrenheit within 12 to 48 hours of the start of the process. Normal temperature for a dog is
approximately 100°F to 102°F. It is recommended that the breeder monitor the dog‘s rectal temperature twice
daily for at least four days prior to the expected delivery date to allow ample opportunity to observe the de-
crease in temperature.
Behavioral Indicators
Other indicators of the approach of whelping are related to the mother‘s behavior. Some dogs may seem con-
stantly hungry, but it is more common for them to refuse food as whelping nears. The inclination for the mother
to demonstrate nesting behavior is another indicator of the onset of whelping. It is critical that she has been giv-
en a quiet space and provided with a whelping box of the appropriate size and away from other activity where
she can feel safe, comfortable, and undisturbed. On the other hand, she may insist on being with her owner so
the breeder may need to stay with her in the whelping area and provide reassurance. It is probably a good idea
to provide for the owner‘s comfort in the delivery area since he or she may be spending some time there!
Stages of Whelping
It is important for breeders to be aware of their own behavior. They should remain calm and reassuring. This
helps to relieve stress and soothe the whelping mother. One of the most frequently asked questions is, ―How
long is it supposed to last?‖ While the duration of whelping is affected by variables such as breed, litter size,
and parity (how often the mother has given birth), most whelping is completed in four to eight hours. Most of
the time puppies are born within 20 to 30 minutes of each other but this is not an indisputable rule. At the end of
parturition, the length of time between the births of puppies can increase. It is advisable that a veterinarian be
consulted for intervals longer than three to four hours between puppies, or if there are no contractions. If the
mother is having contractions but no puppies are being born this condition should also receive veterinary atten-
tion.
Rectal temperature must be checked twice a day to observe the drop of
1ºC, which occurs 12 to 48 hours before parturition.
22
Stage One
Labor does not occur spontaneously but is a gradual occurrence. At the onset, the expectant mother will appear
anxious and start to pant, pace, shiver, or vomit. Uterine contractions may or may not be outwardly visible. This
is referred to as Stage One of whelping. The uterus is contracting and the cervix is relaxing to allow for passage
of the puppies into the birth canal.
The first structure to appear in the vulva after labor has begun is the fetal membrane called the chorion, which
has formed around the fetus. Fluid called the allantois, which is sometimes present in this sac, is usually clear
with a slight amber or reddish color. The next phase will be marked by the mother‘s vigorous contractions, fol-
lowed by the appearance of the second fetal membrane called the amnion. This sac may still contain amniotic
fluid which protected the fetus in the womb.
Stage Two
The birth of the puppy is Stage Two of whelping. It is important to note that if
the sac is intact and the mother does not break it, then the breeder must do so
immediately. Otherwise, the puppy‘s first attempts to breathe air will not be
possible.
Stage Three
The placenta is usually passed within 15 minutes of the puppy‘s birth. This is
Stage Three of whelping. Some breeders allow the mother to eat one or more
placentas. While this is instinctual for some dogs, it is not necessarily an ideal
practice. Ingestion of placentas can cause vomiting and diarrhea which lead to
anorexia and dehydration. Also, saving the placentas and counting them is an
excellent way to ensure that all of them have been delivered. There will be one
placenta per puppy. A retained placenta can cause serious medical problems for the mother which in turn affects
the puppies.
Clearly, having a predictable whelping date provides an advantage in planning for the whelping event. The
mother dog should have had appropriate veterinary care (including physical exams, vaccinations, regular de-
worming, and heartworm prevention) to ensure she was healthy enough for breeding. Additionally, she should
have received ideal nutrition between breedings and throughout the reproductive cycle, lactation, and weaning.
These basic health care provisions will give her and her puppies a good head start on a successful pregnancy
and whelping.
Copyright Royal Canin USA® 2011
Appearance of the amniotic
sac at the vulval fold.
23
To Crush or Not to Crush Medication
Taken From the AKC -Bark Bark ~
From a Reader:
Dear Lisa: I just wanted to give you a little info about crushing pills for your readers. As a
formulator for a pharmaceutical company, I know that some medicines cannot be crushed or
removed from the capsule. Sometimes, the tablet contains a special coating or may contain a
component that influences the release of the drug. Sometimes even a capsule plays an integral
part in the delivery of the medicine. Before crushing a tablet or removing the components of a
capsule, the owner should check with their vet or ask their local pharmacist (a pharmacist can
best answer these types of questions, since most animal medicines are developed for humans first). - A proud Keeshond owner and chemist
Dear Chemist: Thanks for the great perspective and advice! All dog owners should work in
concert with their veterinarians (and in this case their pharmacist) when administering medica-tion to their dogs!
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by Aaron Decker•May 24, 2011• Gun Dog Magizine
Q (Question): We had a German wirehaired pointer puppy 15 months ago that died of parvovirus within a
week after we got her. We bleached the area she used outside, bleached the carrier, burnt the bedding, and
cleaned the carpet and furniture.
Although we have the chance to get another bird dog, we are afraid. Is it safe? This pup is three months old and
has had three series of the 7-in-1 puppy shots, and is happy and healthy with her littermates. Just as a little
more info, we also have three adult dogs living at the same place, all vaccinated and healthy. –NM
A (Answer): Getting and maintaining a healthy puppy is a major problem for any dog owner and must be han-
dled as a cooperative venture among the new pup owner, the breeder and their veterinarians. While parvo is not
caused by parasites, it is important that the pup be as free of intestinal parasites as possible so the gut is healthy
and able to ward off the parvovirus. Also, good nutrition is important not only for the growth of the pup, but
also for the development of the immune system, again to ward off the parvovirus.
Cleaning and disinfection are OK, but for the most part they are ―feel good‖ exercises. A cup of Clorox to a gal-
lon of water is a good viracidal agent, but it only works on nonporous surfaces free of organic matter. You can-
not do much about the yard except let time take care of it. Your older dogs can carry the virus and shed it with-
out showing symptoms, but again, time should take care of that.
I would concentrate more on the pup‘s immune status. I‘m not a believer in these multivalent vaccines that you
mentioned. I think they really overload the young dog‘s immune system, and I like to concentrate on the two
diseases that can kill your dog: parvo and distemper.
To accomplish this, I give a distemper/parvo vaccination at six weeks, a parvo booster at nine weeks, a distem-
per/parvo booster at 12 weeks and, finally, a distemper/parvo booster at 16 weeks of age. Part of the basis for
this schedule is that the immune system of the pup is not able to respond to its maximum until 16 weeks of age.
Now that you are looking at a 13-week-old pup, you need a plan that will get it into your house with the best
chance of surviving. I would do the following: Have the breeder take the pup into their veterinarian and draw a
blood sample to send in to Cornell University‘s Animal Health Diagnostic Lab for titers on both distemper and
parvovirus. This will help clarify the pup‘s risk level.
Also consider leaving the pup with the breeder until it is vaccinated at 16 weeks, and then give it another 10
days to develop an immune response to the vaccine. I don‘t like the latter suggestion very well, however, be-
cause I feel puppies should go to their new homes when they are seven to eight weeks of age.
The obvious question that this last comment brings is, doesn‘t such a young pup have even more vulnerability?
Probably not. The young pup is protected by the passive immunity it receives from its mother‘s milk, and this
immunity can last up to 10 to 12 weeks of age.
25
From: AKC Barking Bulletin - August 2011 This article first appeared in the June, 2011 AKC Gazette and is reprinted with permission.
He‘s scratching and licking, keeping you awake, ruining his show coat, and giving himself a handy excuse for
breaking that stay. It‘s driving you crazy—imagine how he must feel.
We most often associate allergies with sneezing and respiratory problems in people, but in dogs, allergies are
most often associated with the skin and gastrointestinal (GI) tract. About 10 to 15 percent of dogs with food al-
lergies will have both skin and GI signs, and about 20 to 30 percent of dogs with food allergies will also have
itchy skin from other non-food allergies. GI signs are most often loose stools, with an average of three a day.
Vomiting and belching can also be signs. A skin sign is usually itchiness, and it appears the same as itchiness
due to other allergies.
According to one recent study, nearly 8 percent of dogs presented to a referral dermatology practice had food
allergies, which represented about a third of all the dogs presented there with allergic skin disease. ―Ears and
rears‖ is sometimes used to refer to the characteristic location of itchiness, though it‘s actually a little more
widespread than just those regions. In one study, dogs with food allergies suffered from itchy ears in 80 percent
of the cases (and in fact, only the ear was affected in a quarter of all cases); itchy feet in 61 percent; itchy groin
region in 53 percent; and itchy armpits, anterior foreleg, or eye regions in about 35 percent of cases. Secondary
ear- and skin infections often arise from self-inflicted trauma from scratching and chewing. These infections
must be treated along with removal of the offending food.
Some breeds, such as Cocker Spaniels, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherd Dogs,
Poodles, and Chinese Shar-Pei, may be at greater risk for food allergies, though they can appear in any breed.
Allergies can appear at any age, but most dogs have been eating the offending food for two years before signs
of allergy appear. Some develop signs as early as two months of eating the offending food, but allergic reactions
are not something that normally appear immediately after introducing a new food. But once symptoms appear,
their onset is often sudden and serious.
Trial Diets After ruling out other possible causes (such as flea allergies, scabies, ringworm, and demodex), trial diets can be
undertaken. Blood tests exist but are unreliable to the point of uselessness. Three-quarters of non-allergic dogs
in one study tested positive for multiple food ingredients, none of which caused any allergic signs in the dogs in
real life.
Trial diets consist of foods with unique proteins and limited ingredients. Commercial veterinary diets with novel
protein sources have made home cooking unnecessary, but you could prepare your dog‘s food following various
veterinary-approved recipes. The important thing to remember is that novel-protein diets must have protein
sources that the dog hasn‘t been exposed to beforehand. Possible protein sources include tuna, salmon, rabbit,
game meats, pinto beans, and garbanzo beans; possible carbohydrate sources include yams, pumpkin, oats, bar-
ley, and quinoa. Because home-prepared trial diets usually use only two ingredients (one protein and one carbo-
hydrate), they‘re not adequate for long-term feeding.
Finding The Food Foe - Identifying Food Allergies in Dogs
26
Commercial veterinary diets include fish, duck, venison, rabbit, kangaroo, modified soy, or modified chicken
livers as protein sources. Many years ago lamb and rice–based foods were introduced to dogs who developed
allergies to the more common dog-food protein sources, such as beef and chicken. Because most dogs had not
been exposed to lamb in their diets, they had not yet developed allergies to it and often remained allergy-free for
months to years. Lamb-and-rice diets gained the reputation of being hypoallergenic and increased in popularity.
But there is nothing inherently hypoallergenic in these foods; their success lies in the fact that dogs had not ea-
ten them before. Now their popularity as staple diets has negated their efficacy as a fallback or trial diet for dogs
with food allergies. Make a list of every food your dog has eaten in the past, and make sure it‘s not one of the
ingredients of the novel diet. For dogs who eat a lot of variety, this can be challenging.
An alternative is to feed a food containing hydrolyzed proteins—conventional proteins broken down into mole-
cules too small to stimulate the immune system. Hills Z/D, Purina HA, and Royal Canin Hypoallergenic all
make use of hydrolyzed proteins. Commercial hypoallergenic foods often contain increased levels of omega 3
fatty acids or decreased omega 6 to omega 3 fatty-acid ratios to decrease skin inflammation and itching.
Tracking Results During the trial, the dog must eat only the trial food—no treats, table scraps, chewies, or even chewable pills
unless they contain only the same ingredient sources as the trial diet. Read the ingredients of any treat or human
food you may wish to feed; for example, rice cakes often contain wheat as well. You must be diligent about the
dog‘s self-feeding habits; no foraging in the garbage pail or under the baby‘s high chair. If you have more than
one pet, feed them separated or crated. Make sure your dog has no access to cat or dog feces he might eat, or
even another pet‘s vomit. Many owners find sticking to the diet is difficult, and some dogs rebel at the limited
variety and lack of customary treats. You can try putting pieces of the dry trial-diet kibble in a food-delivery toy
to break the monotony. Or if feeding a canned trial food, slice it up and bake it to make dog cookies. Family and
friends must understand that breaking the diet will only prolong the trial.
In past years the trial lasted for four weeks, but some recent studies have found that only a quarter of dogs with
food allergy will respond in this time. About 80 percent will respond in six weeks. Generally if a dog has not
responded in nine weeks he probably won‘t, but trials may still be conducted for 10 to 12 weeks. Cocker Spa-
niels and Labrador Retrievers tend to take longer to respond than other breeds.
Consider taking weekly photos of your dog or keeping a journal so you‘ll have a better idea of how he‘s im-
proving. Some dogs have such terrible itching at the beginning of the trial that a corticosteroid may be given to
provide temporary relief. If so, you must wait long enough for the effects of the steroid to wear off before attri-
buting any improvement to the food.
At the end of the trial, the dog is presented with his former suspect diet to make sure the symptoms didn‘t go
away for some other non–diet related reason. If the dog is allergic to that diet, symptoms should reappear from a
few hours up to a week afterward. At this point the dog can be placed back on the trial diet as a regular diet, or
suspected ingredients can be added to the diet one at a time, waiting at least two weeks after the dog is asymp-
tomatic before adding another.Most dogs react to one or two allergens; about 20 percent react to more. There‘s
a greater chance that dogs react to animal products from the same species (milk and meat from cattle, for exam-
ple) or from related species (cattle, sheep, and deer, for example).
Diet trials are inconvenient and tedious. But compared to your dog‘s discomfort, they‘re a small price to pay to
identify the culprit. Unfortunately there is no cure for food allergies—except to avoid the offending foods.
27
by James Spencer•August 2, 2011
POINTING BREEDS ―When the temperature gets above about 65 degrees,‖ Roger Buddin of Big Country Kennel said, ―you should
start watching for signs of overheating in your dog, even if you‘re quite comfortable. In training, your dog
works harder than you do. He runs while you walk, and he covers a lot more ground than you do. Then, too, be-
ing a bird dog, he just doesn‘t know when to quit. So it‘s up to you to keep him from overheating. Be especially
careful if he‘s out of shape.‖
Roger stressed that an overheated dog can die very quickly if not cooled down.
Thus you should watch for the early symptoms and take immediate action if they appear. Initially, your dog will
start panting more and more profusely. If not cooled down, he will next start wobbling around in circles. Then
he‘ll have a seizure and collapse, after which he will die within minutes.
If your dog starts panting noticeably, you should get him into a shady area right away and give him water to
drink. You shouldn‘t put him in a crate until he has stopped panting. If your dog should ever suffer the later
stages (staggering and so forth), you should get him into water, a pond or stock tank, immediately. Lacking a
pond or stock tank, you should pour water over his head and chest.“I’ve found that rubbing a little alcohol in
his ears,” Roger said, “also helps cool him down.”
When traveling to and from the training grounds in warm weather, you should keep your dog in a well-
ventilated crate in a well-ventilated place in your vehicle, preferably with drinking water available for him. You
shouldn‘t put more than one dog in a crate. Ideally, you should travel only in the early morning and late even-
ing.
While on the training grounds but not running your dog, you should keep him staked out in a shady area with
drinking water available. When he‘s staked out and you are helping someone else run his dog, you should check
on your dog frequently.Before running your dog, you should wet down his head and chest. You should always
carry a squirt bottle full of water so you can give him occasional drinks while he‘s running.―In warm weather,‖
Roger said, ―don‘t run your dog very long. Watch him closely for signs of tiring. Try to pick him up just before
he starts to tire. For that, you have to know your dog.‖
Roger pointed out that, in warm weather, scenting conditions are usually rather poor. Wind and humidity help,
but finding birds on hot, dry, windless days can be impossible, so don‘t expect too much of your dog. Mornings
and evenings are the best times to train under such conditions.
As a final thought, Roger added this: ―If the weather‘s too warm for you, it‘s way too warm for your dog, so
don‘t take any chances on harming him. He loves to run and hunt, and he depends on you to keep him from
overheating. It‘s also your responsibility to keep him in proper condition for the work you expect of him.‖
Warm Weather Training for Gun Dogs
28
Dealing with Thunderstorm Phobias
For many dogs, thunderstorm phobias are a big problem. Changes in the barometric pressure,
the loud crack of thunder, the sounds of wind and hard rain, and flashes of lightening can all
cause fearful reactions. Panting, pacing, drooling, quivering, and trying to hide are some of the
signs your dog has developed a fear of storms. In some cases, dogs who have no issues with
storms develop a fear later in life.
There are some things you can do if your dog is thunderstorm phobic.
1. Maintain a cool and level head yourself. Use a cheerful voice, don‘t act afraid, and don‘t
baby the dog.
2. Even though you may not like your dog drooling on you and shedding large amounts of
hair from stress, don‘t show any signs of being upset with your dog.
3. Reduce the sound of the storm by turning on the television or radio and moving to a room
that is quiet.
4. Try an activity that can distract your dog such as ball play or another favorite indoor ac-
tivity.
5. For many dogs who are afraid of storms, offering a safe ―den like‖ place is a great solu-
tion. Cover the dog‘s crate with a sheet, or give your dog access to a room with no win-
dows such as a bathroom.
You can also use a CD of thunderstorm noises to desensitize your dog to storm sounds. Finally,
in extreme cases where the dog can actually get hurt, it may be necessary to talk to your veteri-
narian about the possibility of medication.
29
POINTERS (GERMAN WIREHAIRED) Bred by Exhibitor
Bred By Exhibitor Bitches.
1/W (3 Points) 22
WEIDENHUGEL HOPE V JOEY JH. SR
50836801. 06-07-08
"HOPE"
By DC NAFC Tumalo Joe - Ch Weidenhugel Becca
V Blitz JH.
Handled by: Kathi Boyd
Owner: C Heiller DVM & Kathy Boyd., Santa Ro-
sa, CA 954013832. Breeder: C Heiller DVM & Ka-
thy Boyd.
NEW CHAMPION
30
POINTERS (GERMAN WIREHAIRED Puppy,
6 & Under 9 Months Bitches.
1/BP 16
WEIDENHUGEL JETTA V TREFF. SR
65865801. 12-12-10
By FC AFC Weidenhugel Impulse V Xero MH RN
- Weidenhugel Ida V Yankee.
Handled by: Sharon Jahn
Owner: Sharon Jahn., Dixon, CA 956203200.
Breeder: Mildred L Revell.
The past two weekends have been fun with Weidenhugel Jetta v Treff (Jetta) (see below):
Weidenhugel Jetta v Treff (Jetta) first time out in a field trial took a 3rd place in Open Puppy a the Ned
Castillo Memorial Field Trial on August 13th;
Then followed that up with a 2nd in Open Puppy; 2nd in Amateur Walking Puppy and a 4th in Amateur
Walking Derby on August 20/21 at the German Shorthair Pointer Club of Northern Sacramento Valley
Walking Field Trial.
Dad, Treff, and grandmother, Lexi, were definitely proud of the kid.
Best Puppy
31
POINTERS
(GERMAN
WIREHAIRED)
12 & Under 18
Months Dogs.
1/W/BW (3
Points) 17 AMIN HI TIMO'S BIG BOY. SR 61717305. 03-12-10
By Ch Timo II V.Bockenhagen - Ch Devata Rip It Up At Scotia.
Owner: Shirley A Hoskins., San Francisco, CA 941312524. Breeder: Amin Hi Kennel.
(A Ghione, Agent).
Major Win
32
SEL
18
GCH WEIDENHUGEL ABBY V JESSIE. SR 33205502. 03-18-06
BOS
18 By Ch RLB's Jessie The Body MH - Ch Weidenhugel Xtra Spcl V Bama MH. Bitch.
Owner: Cynthia Heiller DVM & Kathy Boyd., Oakley, CA 94561. Breeder: Cynthia Heil-
ler DVM & Kathy Boyd.
Winner's Bitch from the Bred By Class
Chukar Ridge's Meant To BE (Kelly)
Bred by Chuck & Becki Ramage - Handled by Cuck Ramage
Best Opposite and Select
33
POINTERS (GERMAN SHORT-
HAIRED). Puppy, 6 & Under 9 Months
Dogs.
1/W/BW (4 Points) 15
ROBIN CREST DOUBLEEE SHOOT TO
THRILL. SR 65655006. 11-21-10
By GCH Robin Crest Spectacular Bid JH - Ch Edel-
marke Heart Of Dixee JH.
Owner: Preston & Aimee Wales & Debbie Lewis.,
Vacaville, CA 956876404. Breeder: Debbie Lewis &
Robin Remondi.
(Jean Gauchat-Hargis, Agent).
CH. Robin Crest Doubleee Shoot To Thrill, JH
Buddee/Shooter earned his conformation title at 8 months and his Junior Hunt Title at 8
½ months. So, he is not just a pretty face but he can also hunt.
NEW CHAMPION
34
New Dual Champion
CH. Edelmark Heart of Dixee, JH
Owned by: Rob & Deb Lewis
Handled By: Pierre Urrutia
35
Well, where do I start, with last year actually! It’s been a busy couple of years for us. Show: We finished three more bitches in the ring in 2010. Due to my knees recouping again
from second replacements, I was on the sidelines to watch my granddaughter Tiffany
Owens, finish CH. Winter Creek’s Closer, JH, (Kyra) from Bred Bye, Joaquin Fernandez
finished CH. Winter Creek’s Cha Ching, JH, (Bling) and Josh Hargis finished CH. Winter
Creek’s Eloise, both from Open Bitch. This brings our total to 21 Champions in sixteen
years of showing
Field: Our youngster, Winter Creek’s Manhattan On The Rocks, “Rocky”, was the 2010 National
GSP Futurity Winner in Eureka, Kansas. It was a field of 72 young dogs. Rocky ran the first
day of a three day stake. Needless to say, we were on pins and needles to see if he did
something, as his trainer/teacher, Scott Azevedo said “ Blue Will Do”!
2011 got off to a not so great start with a very bad fall from my horse and I’m still recoup-
ing from that. But to bring a very happy smile to my face is the fact the Rocky’s older
brother FC. Winter Creek’s Ace In The Hole, JH completed his FC in the tough Northwest
competition.
As of July, Ace is the #1 All Age GSP in the US. Our thanks to Scott Azevedo who is Ace’s
teacher and made this possible for us.
Whelping Box: Ace and our Audrey, CH./BIS. Intl. CH. Winter Creek’s My Fair Lady, JH. (World Famous
Marz granddaughter) presented us with a new litter on Sept.1. All the pups are a pound or
over and doing great. I think they take after their dad as at 2 days old, they are motoring
all over the box…hum, must be All Age!
I want to thank everyone who has kept calling me to check up on my progress and wish
me well.
Best of luck to everyone with new and continued pursuits for the rest of this year.
Pam and Al Brann
36
CH. Surefire's Imbibed Little Secret JH
POINTERS (GERMAN
WIREHAIRED Bred by
Exhibitor Bitches.
1/W 3 points 12
SUREFIRE'S IMBIBED LITTLE SECRET JH. SR
56797901. 05-26-09
"BB"
By DC Nyramskov's H. Hector - Ch Surefire's Secret Moon-
shine JH RN.
Owner: Joan & Andy Payton., Bakersfield, CA 93312. Breeder:
A & J Payton.
NEW CHAMPION
37
CH. Surefire's Secret Little Spot
Owned by: Joan & Andy Paton
Handled by: Joan Payton
POINTERS (GERMAN WIREHAIRED).
Bred by Exhibitor Dogs.
1/W/BW (3 Points) 11
SUREFIRE'S SECRET LITTLE SPOT. SR
56797905. 05-26-09
"SPOT"
By DC Nyramskov's H. Hector - Ch Surefire's Se-
cret Moonshine RN JH.
Owner: Joan & Andy Payton., Bakersfield, CA
93312. Breeder: A & J Payton.
NEW CHAMPION
38
RALLY PAIRS
LD and Shine on their 6th birthday
4th place
Joan Payton handler
39
Junior - Honorary Wirehair
Rally Advanced Title
owned by: Joan and Andy Payton
40
The Drentsche Patrijshond:
Rarest Pointing Dog Breed In America? by Dave Carty
Originating in 16th century Netherlands and recognized by the UKC in 1996, Drents
were bred to be all-around family, farm and hunting dogs and are related to the Small Munsterlander. If you‘ve
never heard of Drentsche Patrijshonds — don‘t even think about trying to pronounce the name — no need to get
yourself all riled up and lonesome. The dogs: Drents look a lot like Small Munsterlanders, another rare breed
some of you may not be familiar with.―Most people confuse them with springers,‖ Marsha Lambregts told me.
―You get a lot of strange looks. And nobody knows what a Munsterlander looks like, either.‖ In fact, they have
the Munsterlander‘s same spaniel-like liver and white markings on the face and back, same long tails, although
perhaps a bit stockier and bigger boned. Lambregts, a native of the Netherlands, says that the Munsterlanders
just across the border in Germany are indeed closely related, although many of the Dutch claim the dogs origi-
nated in Spain.With something like 75 of them in the U.S., these dogs need all the PR they can get. Luckily for
them, they‘ve got Brian O‘Connor and John Lambregts working their corner. Between the two of them, they
have enough enthusiasm to start their own breed club.
I wanted a chance to see the dogs work before writing a profile, so most of the current American con-
tingent of Drent owners met me in a local coffee shop: Lambregts and his wife, Marsha, and O‘Connor and his
wife, Nikki. There were four of the handsome dogs among them: Bowi, Clio, Paxson and little Booker, a drop-
dead cute, six-month-old puppy with a tail as long as a broom handle.
Unfortunately for us, the Arizona mountains weren‘t in a receptive mood. It hadn‘t rained in weeks, and
each step lifted little puffs of talc-like dust, which slowly drifted back down, coating the sere and dead grass
around us and turning our boots a light, chalky brown. Worse, there were bird hunters in every coulee, and the
coveys I‘d hunted for years had been shot to hell and Sunday. Lacking other alternatives, I jabbed my finger
more or less at random onto a map.―We‘ll hunt here,‖ I said, silently praying the drainage I‘d chosen would
hold at least a covey or two. Mearns quail live on steep, rocky hillsides as well as in the flat and sandy washes
below them. Naturally, the drainage I‘d picked was long on steep and short on flat,
Drents may also suffer the same German territoriality. The minute we turned the dogs loose, the
two biggest, Bowi and Paxson, immediately started a feud. But it was all snarling and posturing, and the mo-
ment Lambregts pulled the dogs apart they went their ways with no apparent hard feelings. With the tempera-
ture rising by the minute, we decided to run all four dogs at once, including Booker, the puppy. Before long the
dogs were clambering over the rocky slopes above. All five of us — the Lambregts, the O‘Connors, and me —
plodded along behind.
41
With any number of other breeds, it would have been a far more difficult task to keep up. Drents — at
least the ones I saw — are emphatically not big-running dogs. They‘re content to stay within a few dozen yards
of the gun, although from time to time one of them would punch out to 60 or 70 yards. But then, without fail,
they‘d turn, and, looking for John or Brian, amble back to within a couple dozen yards. They often run with low
heads, pausing to work out puzzling scent, then lope off in search of more. The four of them, romping and
weaving in and out, looked like a slow-moving brown and white cascade: never fast or abrupt, but pressing for-
ward at a stately trot. And happy. It was obvious they were enjoying themselves, although my sense was that
they had not yet figured out just what kind of bird they were looking for.Because of their extremely close range,
Drents may not be the best choice for wide open country, the kind of stuff best suited to big-running pointers
and setters (although John Lambregts is a serious sharptailed grouse hunter back home in Idaho, so what do I
know?) But for close-in birds like pheasants and grouse, close-ranging dogs are exactly what the majority of
American bird hunters want.
Regrettably, although the Mearns should have been ideally suited to our contingent of Drents that day,
the Mearns, like the weather, just weren‘t in the mood to play. Time and again one of the dogs would stop, snuf-
fle around, and then, finding nothing, move on. It had to have been frustrating for their owners. We were an
hour into the hunt before I cut fresh sign. Neither the O‘Connors nor the Lambregts had hunted Mearns before,
so I decided a brief tutorial was in order. I pointed dramatically at the circular ring of droppings, then the dig-
gings nearby, where the birds had been excavating topsoil with their huge, clawed feet, looking for oxalis bulbs.
―Quail!‖ I announced proudly, for lo, even the blind hog occasionally findeth the acorn. But it was Marsha, be-
hind me with one of the dogs, who actually found the birds, stepping squarely into the middle of the covey.
Working in draws with multiple dogs, the Drents made a quality team.
They flew over a hill into a steep-walled cirque, where I suspected we‘d be able to pick up some
singles. And for once I was right. I grabbed my camera and clambered up the ridge overlooking the canyon be-
low while Brian, Marsha and Brian‘s two Drents, Paxson and little Booker, worked their way up the middle of
it. I was certain we‘d get a point at last. But it was not to be. Halfway through, singles began going up one by
one, one of the endearing — and exasperating — characteristics of the birds.
The dogs, meanwhile, seemed a bit puzzled by it all. When they were ahead the birds flushed from be-
hind; when they dropped behind the birds squirted out ahead. I watched the tableau unfold from my hawks-eye
view a hundred feet above, frustrated that we couldn‘t quite get the dogs, the birds and the gunners on the same
theater of operations.But that‘s the way bird hunting is. An experienced Mearns dog might have pointed, per-
haps, two or three of the singles Brian and Marsha walked up, but neither Drent had yet to see or scent a Mearns
quail, and in the bone dry dust under a blazing winter sun, even my dogs, who have been hunting Mearns for
years, had of late been out of position and blowing by coveys.
42
Finally, Brian kicked up a bird at his feet, shouldered his gun, and at long last, found the shot he was
looking for and, not surprising for a Senior Master Sergeant in the Air Force, promptly put the little bird‘s beak
in the dirt. We were on the scoreboard. My luck, however, was drying up faster than the Arizona topsoil, and
we simply couldn‘t get a point on my watch. That afternoon, though, while I sat nursing a glass of wine in my
camper, the Lambregts and O‘Connors went back out on their own. Despite the heat, they found another covey
and had several solid points. Without my expert help, if you can believe that.
The following morning was more of the same. When Bowi began making game, I heard Lambregts an-
nounce, ―Bird tail! Bird tail!‖ I swapped directions and charged toward the dog, who was hidden in the trees
somewhere above me, hoping that, finally, I‘d get a picture of a Drent on point. But a moment later the covey
took off. With the kind of hunting pressure the birds had been under, the survivors were getting goosey. John
had shot his first Mearns earlier that morning, and I dropped a handsome little rooster at the tail end of the day,
which Nikki cradled in her hands all the way back to the truck. But we finished the hunt with a lot of miles un-
der the dogs and precious little action. The birds just weren‘t around.
Bowi, John and Marsha Lambregts‘ dog, was bought from a breeder who, due to a divorce, had got the
dog back from its first owner. Lambregts says he knew he had something the first day he took him afield. ―I
went and put him out with three other dogs,‖ he recalls, laughing. ―He went out and blew through three coveys
of birds on the other side of the field. I said, ‗Yeah, I like this.‘ He just had so much talent. He was a keeper.‖
The O‘Connors had several other dogs before getting their first Drent, including a Brittany, which they
got from a rescue organization. ―We finally decided we wanted to screw up our own dogs,‖ he jokes. ―The rea-
son we picked this dog was that it had the personality and the right size…it was just love at first sight,‖ Nikki
O‘Connor told me. ―Their character really interests me — I just love it.‖ But Drents, she says, ―will try to take
you over. You have to be the boss.‖ Lambregts, in his flawless English, agreed, telling me that the dogs take a
―firm but gentle hand.‖ Sounds like good advice for any breed. I wonder if it works on quail?
Although their dogs‘ hunting background may be a bit more casual than a typical American field-bred
breed, there‘s nothing casual about Brian or John‘s love of sport. O‘Connor chases scaled quail on a regular ba-
sis on his Alamagordo military base, and John and Marsha Lambregts root out pheasants and sharptailed grouse
in Idaho. Both tell me their dogs have become proficient at pinning these notoriously hard to pin gamebirds.
Drents have a utilitarian past, and one not devoted strictly to hunting. ―In Holland,‖ John told me, ―hunt-
ing was reserved for blue bloods, except for the province of Drenthe (where Van Gogh spent his idle time lop-
ping off his ears). ―Their background is being a farm dog. If there was a fox around, they (the owner‘s Drent)
were supposed to take it out. Sometimes, they were even used for pulling carts.‖Everyone was in agreement that
the dogs were family dogs first and hunters second, exactly opposite, I suspect, of the prevailing American
mindset. Brian nodded. ―There‘s a super heavy emphasis on family,‖ he told me.
When all was said and done, it was hard not to like the Drents. They‘re friendly and handsome, clearly dogs
better suited to living inside with their owners than outside in a kennel.
43
Get Well Soon
Gracie Marsh wanted to wish her mom, Zuni, a speedy recovery from recent
eye surgery.
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Good GSP Dog Friends Elaine and Jerry Last are now pub-lished authors. Their combined first effort is titled Empana-da Affair can be downloaded from Amazon and your Kindle for the huge price of 99 cents. Amazon provides a "critique" space.
They would love to have as many of us read it as like to read. It is based on Elaine's journal of their time living in South America. What great fun! Enjoy!
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10 Tips For Keeping Your Dog Cool by Jerry Thoms
1. Always carry plenty of dog water in your vehicle and in your hunting vest, no matter what the apparent tem-
perature. Haul water in one-gallon jugs and five-gallon cans for on the road and in a smaller, portable container
for in the field. Also carry several pounds of ice in a chest-type cooler for emergency canine cool down.
Water on the outside of a dog is a key factor in avoiding heat stress because a wet canine is usually a cool
canine. Thoroughly soak the fur and rub water into and through the
coat to ensure skin contact. For dogs on the edge of heat stress, pour
water on its tongue (especially if the dog won’t or can’t drink), ears,
throat, belly, groin, and back.
2.Never assume that natural supplies of water (cattle dugouts, ponds, or
creeks) will be in the field (in hot weather these sources can dry up) or that
the water found in these places is good (in dry spells, toxic farm chemicals
can concentrate there or poisonous algae can grow there).
3. Get water into and onto a gun dog at every opportunity. Wet down all dogs before, during, and after an exer-
cise or training session. And of course, follow this same procedure on a hunt.
4. When the breeze seems cool on your face, assume that on the ground where your dog is the temperature may
be much hotter with little air circulation. So, keep your hot gun dog well hydrated on the inside and outside all
day.
5. When the weather is hot, hunt, exercise, and train your gun dog early or late in the day to avoid high tempera-
tures. Usually the hunting is better then anyhow and your dog will always perform better in cooler conditions.
6. Recognize the signs of canine heat stress, such as excessive panting, glazed eyes, ignoring commands, stag-
gering, and falling down without an ability to get up.
7. Treat all heat stress as a serious condition that can disable and may kill any dog no matter what breed, general
health, or age. Assume that a heat stressed dog may need medical attention which includes an immediate trip to
a veterinarian for an examination and treatment.
8. A heat stressed dog needs to be immediately cooled off with water in its mouth (don‘t force a dog to drink if
it doesn‘t want to or can‘t), on its ears, neck, belly, back and groin area. Squeeze water into the hair and down
to the skin to assure that cooling contact occurs.
9. When transporting a heat stressed dog in a crate or a dog trailer, make sure plenty of ventilation is available
to keep the canine container from turning into a deadly sauna. Best of all, put a hot dog in the vehicle in front of
the air conditioner.
10. Put ice cubes in your dog‘s crate as an insurance policy that cool water will always be available when trav-
eling down the road or sitting still on a hot day. Consider the use of commercially-made products specially de-
signed to replenish lost liquid, minerals, and vitamins—sort of like Gatorade for dogs.
46
Up Coming Litter Announcement
Due Date: 8/29/11
Sire: DC Wildwings Shameless “Gus” [ NFC FC Sure Shot’s Slick Nickel “Nick” x DC
AFC Wildwings Party Girl JH “T”]
Dam: CH Sure Shot’s Reckless “Ricki Lee” [CH Sure Shot’s Rock On JH “Dillon” x FC
AFC Sure Shot’s White Shadow “Shades”]
Owner/Contact: Penny Ljungren
253-631-6232
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Litter born on Sunday, July 17, 2011 4 boys and 2 girls
Sire: DC Nyramskov's H. Hector
Dam: CH. Scotian Extra Time (Timex)
Breeder: Cynthia Heiller, DVM and Kathleen Boyd
Luca on point at 7 weeks Proud papa, Sep, with pups Lenny on point
Whiskey & Lenny Finding chukar in the field coming out of the field with Becki
Chuck with Lenny (isn't he cute) Rylee looking for shoes Cindy & Gary with grand-puppies
Mel & puppies Can you tell she works with them a lot
48
49
Ingredients
2 pounds ground chicken, coarsely ground preferred
3 tablespoons chili powder, plus 2 teaspoons
1 (15-ounce) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 (15-ounce) can white beans, drained and rinsed
2 (28-ounce) cans diced fire roasted tomatoes
1 medium sweet potato (about 10 ounces), peeled and shredded
1 (15-ounce) can low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup instant tapioca (recommended: Minute tapioca)
1 to 2 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce with seeds, chopped
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon onion powder
2 teaspoons granulated garlic
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch ground cloves
1/2 to 3/4 cup lager-style beer, optional
Toppings: Sour cream, shredded Cheddar or Jack cheese, chopped scallions, and chopped pickled jalapenos
Directions
Put the chicken in the slow cooker. Add 3 tablespoons of the chili powder and all the rest of the ingredients, except the beer. Stir everything together, cover, and cook on LOW for 6 to 8 hours.
Just before serving, stir in the remaining 2 teaspoons of chili powder, the beer, if using, and season with more salt and pepper, to taste, if desired. Divide the chili among warm bowls. Serve with the topping of your choice.
Know-How: Stirring in chili powder right before serving brightens the flavor of the chili.
Copyright (c) 2007 Television Food Network, G.P., All Rights Reserved.
SLOW COOKER CHICKEN CHILI
50
This picture was submitted by Tank, my English Bulldog. He really thought that this was one really "COOL"
dog!
Helpful "Hank" "Payton Landscaping Crew"
submitted by: Cory Johnson
Picture Humor
51
A guy is driving around the back woods of Montana and he sees a sign in
front of a broken down shanty-style house: 'Talking Dog For Sale ' He rings the
bell and the owner appears and tells him the dog is in the backyard.
The guy goes into the backyard and sees a nice looking Labrador retriever
sitting there.'You talk?' he asks. 'Yep,' the Lab replies. After the guy recovers
from the shock of hearing a dog talk, he says 'So, what's your story?'
The Lab looks up and says, 'Well, I discovered that I could talk when I was
pretty young. I wanted to help the government, so I told the CIA. In no time at all
they had me jetting from country to country, sitting in rooms with spies and world
leaders, because no one figured a dog would be eavesdropping.' 'I was one of their
most valuable spies for eight years running. But the jetting around really tired me
out, and I knew I wasn't getting any younger so I decided to settle down.
I signed up for a job at the airport to do some undercover security, wander-
ing near suspicious characters and listening in. I uncovered some incredible deal-
ings and was awarded a batch of medals.''I got married, had a mess of puppies,
and now I'm just retired."
The guy is amazed. He goes back in and asks the owner what he wants for
the dog. 'Ten dollars,' the guy says. Ten dollars? This dog is amazing! Why on
earth are you selling him so cheap? "Because he's a liar. He's never been out of
the yard!"
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The End