ontrak winter 2016

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WEEKENDER EXPLORE TACOMA’S MUSEUMS 2016 METHOW VALLEY SKI THE NORTH CASCADES WINTER THE PILLARS OF HAPPINESS WHERE TO DROP IN & GET FIT TRAIN TRAVEL IN BLACK AND WHITE PICTURED HERE: Surf’s up! Tofino, BC adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades route R TAKE US WITH YOU Compliments of Amtrak Cascades ® BRITISH COLUMBIA-STYLE Winter Surf SHARE YOUR ADVENTURE P. 68

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Photographer Eric Rose channels train travel nostalgia in black and white. Portland's Ethos Music Center brings music out to kids. A fitness guru finds the top spots to drop in along the Amtrak Cascades Line. OnTrak is the exclusive quarterly lifestyle and adventure magazine in the seatback pocket of trains on the Amtrak Cascades route. Created by Statehood Media, OnTrak brings together stories of creative entrepreneurs, innovative companies, adventurous journeys and intriguing artists across the Pacific Northwest in every seat of Amtrak Cascades. From Eugene to Portland, Tacoma, Seattle and Vancouver BC, this title is the exclusive onboard vehicle for culture and entertainment for nearly one million annual passengers.

TRANSCRIPT

WEEKENDEREXPLORE TACOMA’S MUSEUMS2016

METHOW VALLEYSKI THE NORTH CASCADESWINTER

THE PILLARSOF HAPPINESS

WHERE TO DROP IN & GET FIT

TRAIN TRAVEL INBLACK AND WHITE PICTURED

HERE: Surf’s up! Tofino, BC

adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades routeR

TAKE US WITH YOU

Compliments of

Amtrak Cascades®

BRITISH COLUMBIA-STYLEWinter Surf

SHARE YOUR ADV ENT URE

P. 68

Welcome to your New Jewelry Home Maloy’s Jewelry has been a downtown Portland tradition

for over 30 years, with one of the �nest selections of fully restored

antique jewelry on the West Coast. A glittering jewel box full

treasures from all the most beautiful periods of jewelry

design, you will �nd everything from Edwardian

engagement rings to Art Nouveau pendants,

Victorian lockets to Art Deco earrings. We also

have a full sta� of expert bench jewelers right

on site, and can work our restoration or

redesign magic on your own family heirlooms.

With vintage treasures in every price range,

an exceptional memento of your trip is always

in reach. Come visit with our friendly sta�

and explore. Conveniently located on both

the max and streetcar lines.

M-F 10am to 5:30pmSat 11am to 5pm717 SW 10th Ave

Portland, OR 97205503.223.4720

www.maloys.com

Indulge in �e premier food and wine experience.

March 31 - April 3, 2016Seattle, WA

tastewashington.org

presented by

welcoming sponsor event feature premier sponsors

phot

o: K

rist

en M

arie

Pho

togr

aphy

ontrakmag.com4 | WINTER 2016

FeaturesWINTER 2016

Fitness Drop Ins

A fitness guru finds the top spots to drop in along the

Amtrak Cascades line.

48From the

TrainPhotographer Eric Rose

channels nostalgia in this black and white photojournal.

52Bringing

Music BackPortland’s Ethos Music

Center brings music out to kids and fills budgetary

dead spots.

44

Nina Lee Johnson

ontrakmag.com6 | WINTER 2016

DepartmentsWINTER 2016

OUTDOORS33 Outdoors NW

This winter, think surfing. Think Tofino.

36 Notes from the AdventureSkiing from town to town in Washington’s Methow Valley.

40

42

Museums WeekenderHitting a museum-rich Tacoma with young kids—introduce glass.

Stormwatching WeekenderWhidbey Island is the place to be when storms roll in off the Pacific.

56

68

Oregon

ExposureSubmit a photo for a chance to win the photo contest.

60 Washington64 Vancouver

69 Train Games

73 Special Deals on Amtrak Cascades

70 Route Maps

74 Parting Shot

EXPLORE GUIDEWhere to eat, drink, stay, play and shop.

Jim Henkens

INTRO10 Letter

14 Contributors

16 Digital Go online to see more pho-tos from this issue’s gallery.

BUSINESS19 Green Biz

Hopwords Urban Brewery goes B Corp by cutting water use by half.

20

27 Event CalendarPlan your travel around our calendar of music, art, theater, film, sports and festivals.

24 MusicDelhi 2 Dublin mixes Bhangra, Celtic and dub in a moving synthesis.

25 On StageEugene Ballet Company’s Suzanne Haag brings together movement, ballet and art walks.

CULTURE23 Chef Spotlight

Seattle’s Renee Erickson does it again with French-inspired The Whale Wins.

Q&AHappiness, according to Professor John Helliwell.

ON THE COVER: The cover was shot by Kevin Light, an Olympic gold medalist-turned-photographer living in Victoria, BC. Light specializes in sports and portrait photography. View his work at kevinlight.photoshelter.com

The Whale Wins owner and chef, Renee Erickson.

23 Chef Spotlight

1701 Pacific Avenue Tacoma, WA 98402

253-272-4258 www.TacomaArtMuseum.org

Painted Journeys: The Art of John Mix Stanley January 30 — May 1, 2016

Discover the unstoppable artist-explorer who brilliantly captured the West. Only West Coast Venue. Final Stop.

John Mix Stanley (1814–1872), Young Chief (detail), 1868. Oil on canvas, 20 × 16 inches. Tacoma Art Museum, Haub Family Collection, Gift of Erivan and Helga Haub, 2014.6.128. Organized by the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, Cody, Wyoming. Funding support generously provided by private donations, the National Endowment for the Arts and Wyoming Arts Council. Local support is generously provided by ArtsFund and Tacoma Arts Commission.

Ad_OnTrak_EloqObj_full_d1.indd 3 11/24/2015 4:43:24 PM

ontrakmag.com8 | WINTER 2016

Letter

WELCOME ABOARD!We’re pleased you’ve chosen Amtrak

Cascades for your trip today. Thanks for your patronage and please share your memories with others who might want to experience the Pacific Northwest via a scenic, eco-friendly, cost-effective and stress-free mode of transportation.

While we’re proud of our current Amtrak Cascades service, over the last three years we’ve been hard at work to offer you even better service soon. Twenty different projects throughout the Washington rail corridor will result

in significant improvements for Amtrak Cascades passengers when completed in 2017. The result will be shorter travel times, more frequent trips between Se-attle and Portland, and more reliable on-time performance.

Ten of the projects are already fin-ished. They span from Vancouver, at the southern-most point of Washington, to Blaine, at the northern-most point. More information on all the projects can be found on page 73, or visit our website at wsdot.wa.gov/rail.

Through the investment in these proj-ects, as well as our continued focus on passenger satisfaction, we are advancing our goal to make the Amtrak Cascades service even more popular with residents and visitors. Whether you use our service on a regular basis or are taking your first trip aboard our trains, we hope you have a memorable experience. We invite you to come celebrate with us in 2017, when we launch our expanded service and move closer to our vision for true high-speed rail service in the Pacific Northwest.

Jason BiggsOperations Program Manager WSDOT Rail Division

David SmelserCapital Program Manager WSDOT Rail Division

WINTER 2016

Co-Publisher - Heather Huston JohnsonCo-Publisher - Ross Johnson

Editor - Kevin MaxEditor at Large - Sarah Max

Managing Editor - Megan OliverCross-media Manager - Cathy Carroll

Content Producer - Anna Bird

Lead Designer - Crystal JeffersPhoto Editor - Talia Jean Galvin

Designer & Illustrator - Brendan LoscarSales & Marketing Coordinator - Kelly Alexander

Digital | Social Media - McKenna Dempsey, Bronte Dod, Ryan Manies, Cassondra Schindler

Office Manager - Cindy Cowmeadow

Advertising Account ExecutivesFletcher Beck, Monica Butler, Susan Crow,

Ronnie Harrelson, Kate Knox, Kristie La Chance, Hillary Ross

1859 Media Advertising541.550.7081

1859media.com

PUBLISHED BY1859 Media, LLC

PMB 335, 70 SW Century Dr., Suite 100Bend, Oregon 97702

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any infor-mation storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of 1859 Media. articles and photographs appearing in OnTrak may not be reproduced in whole or in part with-out the express written consent of the publisher. OnTrak and 1859 Media are not responsible for the return of unsolicited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles are not necessarily those of 1859 Media, OnTrak, or its employees, staff or management.

1859 Media sets high standards to ensure forestry is practiced in an environmentally respon-sible, socially beneficial and economically viable way. This issue of OnTrak was printed by American Web on recycled paper using inks containing blend of soy base. Our printer is a certified member of the Forestry Stewardship Council (FSC) and the Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI), and meets or exceeds all federal Resource Conservation Recovery Act (RCRA) standards. When you are finished with this issue, please pass it on to a friend or recycle it. We can have a better world if we choose it together.

facebook.com/OnTrakMagfacebook.com/AmtrakCascades

@OnTrakMag@Amtrak_Cascades

adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades® route

OREGON WINE COUNTRY HALF MARATHONAUGUST 13

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Start your road trip at: bellingham.org

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ontrakmag.com12 | WINTER 2016

Contributors

Eric RosePhotographer - Gallery (p. 48)

Eric and his partner traveled from Portland to Vancouver BC and back and loved every minute. “The scenery was epic, the staff seemed to love their jobs, they had our favorite amenities: coffee, internet and good food. There will surely be more train travel in our future, no more putting it off,” he said. His work is at filmesque.com.

Andes HrubyWriter - Drop In and Stay Fit (p.44)

Andes Hruby is a transplant to Bend, Oregon. Life on the road less traveled inspires her to stay fit. Hruby graduated from Columbia University with an MFA in writing and has spent thirty years as a fitness instructor in five disciplines. Hruby, former NBC Fit Guru of Connecticut and contributor to Glamour, Elle, Allure, Cosmopolitan, and Marie Claire, imparts advice for OnTrak on how to stay fit while traveling but still enjoying life’s indulgences.

Sophia McDonald Writer - Museums Weekender (p. 40)

Sophia McDonald is a freelance writer in Eugene, Oregon. Her work has appeared in more than two dozen publications including TeaTime, All About Beer, Acres USA, Wine Business Monthly, Oregon Business and 1859 Oregon’s Magazine. In her spare time, she enjoys reading, cooking, gardening, DIY projects, and spending time with her husband and twin daughters. See her work at sophiathewriter.com.

Lucy BurninghamWriter - Green Biz (p. 17)

Lucy Burningham is a Portland-based writer who covers craft beer, food, and travel for a variety of publi-cations, including The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Saveur, Bon Appétit and the BBC. She combined two of her favorite things—bikes and beer—when she co-authored Hop in the Sad-dle: A Guide to Portland’s Craft Beer Scene by Bike.

Jim HenkensPhotographer - Chef Spotlight (p. 23)

Jim Henkens is a food and lifestyle photographer who divides his time between Seattle and Lummi Island, Washington. When not on assignment for clients such as Sasquatch Books, Starbucks, Nordstrom or Sur La Table, he can usually be found on Lummi Island cooking for friends or in France searching for vintage kitchen items for Marine Area 7, a kitchen store in Seattle he owns with his wife.

WINTER 2016

Dishing Out Glitz, Glamour & Comedy on the Other Side of the Tracks Since 1967!

Darcelle XV Showplace

America’s longest running female impersonation cabaret Wed-Thur 8:00 pm and Fri-Sat 8:00 pm & 10:30pm

Male Review Fri-Sat @ Midnight

208 NW 3rd., Portland, Oregon ~ 503-222-5338 ~ darcellexv.com

IGNITE YOUR INSPIRATION

chihulygardenandglass .com

located at the base of the space needle, seattle centeR

as you walk through the Galleries, Garden and Glasshouse, Chihuly Garden and Glass immerses you in dale chihuly’s work in a whole new way.

COMMUnITY HOT sHOPnoW until may 2016

chihuly Garden and Glass welcomes back our community hot shop. Guests

visiting between 11 am - 6 pm will be able to view live demos and learn more

about the glassblowing process.

804 10th St Bellingham WA (888) 808-0005 thechrysalisinn.com

*Not available with any other promotions or discounts.Rates valid Oct 1, 2015 – April 30, 2016.

Some restrictions may apply. Must present train ticket.

2 night stay any day of the weekSide view or full view deluxe roomTaxi fare to & from the Amtrak stationFun train-themed amenities

$359 + tax

All aboard the Winter Express to Bellingham!

ontrakmag.com14 | WINTER 2016

Follow us oninstagram:@OnTrakMag

MOBILE

Digital Experience

CONTESTS

Snap a great shot and win cool stuff from OnTrak. Send us your photo at ontrakmag.com/exposure

Photo ContestEXP SURE

Follow us at

facebook.com/OnTrakMagfacebook.com/AmtrakCascades

Follow us on twitter:

@OnTrakMag@Amtrak_Cascades

EXTENDED GALLERY

THE ROMANCE & NOSTALGIA OF TRAIN TRAVEL

BY TRAINPhotographer Eric Rose traveled from Portland to Vancouver, BC,

on a mission to capture the romance of modern train travel. See more of the beautiful images he captured during his journey at:

ontrakmag.com/gallery

Chris Sawtelle

ontrakmag.com

WINTER 2016

Train TracksLet our curated list of Pacific Northwest regional musicians be the soundtrack to

your next PNW adventure

The Littlest BirdsThe Be Good Tanyas - Vancouver, BC

MykonosFleet Foxes - Seattle, WA

Mother MotherTracy Bonham - Eugene, OR

The WindsAlela Diane - Portland, OR

Mind IdeaJeremy Enigk - Mt. Vernon, WA

LISTEN HERE ontrakmag.com/traintracks

seasideOR.com

This Month’s

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BURNABY, BC

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chinese new yearat lan su chinese garden

February 8 - 22

• Lion Dances every Friday, Saturday & Sunday

• Lantern Displays• Children’s Performances• Feng Shui Talks• Kid’s Activities

• Martial Arts Demonstrations

• Plants Talks

and more!

Chinese new year events include

year of the monkey

year of the monkeyJust steps from Union Station in Portland’s

Old Town Chinatown Neighborhood!

www.lansugarden.org/Chinesenewyear

Presented in part by grants from:

The Jackson Foundation

Rose E. Tucker Charitable Trust

Walter Clay Hill & Family

FoundationAutzen

Foundation

Chinese New Year is Sponsored by:

ontrakmag.com WINTER 2016 | 17

Business17. Green Biz | 20. Q&A

AT HOPWORKS URBAN BREWERY, there are plenty of reasons to feel good about drinking a pint. The brewpub is built with sustainable mate-rials, and the beer is made from 100 percent or-ganic ingredients. In addition, Hopworks recently became a Certified B Corp, an achievement that affirms the brewery’s sustainability practices.

Hopworks brewmaster and founder Christian Ettinger said all those factors make the beer taste better. “The attitude of the whole experience is what you’re tasting,” he said.

Eight years ago, Ettinger launched the eco-friendly brewery in Southeast Portland, and in 2011, Hop-works opened the BikeBar pub in North Portland. Since then, the brewery has become carbon neutral by using green power and purchasing offsets. When it received B Corp certification in 2015, the proof was in the pudding that its practices meet rigorous standards of social and environmental performance, accountability and transparency.

Hopworks recently became the world’s first Salm-on-Safe certified brewery site, which means it meets high standards for protecting watersheds. As part of its push to reduce water use, the brewery recently in-stalled a system that can reuse water for tank cleaning up to five times, along with a centrifuge that filters beer using significantly less water. Today Hopworks uses 3.4 barrels of water for every barrel of beer it produces, compared to the industry average of seven barrels of water for every barrel of beer.

In 2013, the USDA began requiring that beers labeled “organic” include only organic hops. Hop-works rose to the challenge. Further, nearly all of the organic grains used in Hopworks beers are grown less than 300 miles away in the Klamath Falls area.

The brewery has an ambitious goal of sending zero waste to the landfill. Right now, Hopworks diverts nearly all of its waste from the landfill, a majority of which is spent grains that goes to a local dairy farm.

Ettinger believes that running a sustainable business means looking at what’s possible. “There’s an opportunity every day to make incre-mental changes for the better,” he said.

A Pint Half FullBY LUCY BURNINGHAM

Tim LaBarge

PURVEYOR TO THOSE

SEEKING THE FINER THINGS

IN LIFE.

ontrakmag.com20 | WINTER 2016

Of all the data you compiled in the UN report, what surprised you most? What struck me most was how important trust is in the work-place. In one study, employees were asked to rate where they place trust on a scale of one to ten, and it rated one point higher than their home life. The importance of trusting those in authority and in our neighbor-hoods also has a huge impact on how we reach out and engage in our communities.

Does money really bring true happiness? Yes, economic freedom is cru-cial. Money is one of six happi-ness indicators. Yet, it is hard to determine at what income level you reach the tipping point. More powerful than money, though, is the freedom to make choices and take charge of our lives—positive social interac-tions and good quality personal and mental health.

What countries appear to have the happiest citizens?The happiest residents live in Denmark, Norway, Switzer-land, Sweden and the Neth-erlands. We also discovered that people in small towns are significantly happier overall. That’s because they take time to create genuine human connec-tions—neighbors smile at each other on the street, they chat and they help each other.

How can we find true happiness?Learn to invest more time in the people around you. We know that compassion, altruism and a good marriage boost happiness levels. In one study, we found huge health benefits when cancer survivors helped support others in their fight against cancer.

The Science of Happiness

A SIT DOWN Q ABY MICHELLE HOPKINS

AN OCEANFRONT HOME. An expensive car. First class airline tickets. Are those the luxuries that lead to Nirvana?

University of BC Professor John F. Helliwell has spent decades trying to solve the mystery behind happiness. The leading happiness researcher and internationally renowned economist first began exploring the topic as a visiting professor at Harvard in the 1990s. In 2010, the United Nations called upon him to take part in the first World Happiness Report, released in March of 2012.

Martin Guhn

John HelliwellProfessor, University of British Columbia and the Canadian Institute for Advanced Research

OREGONThe Benson*, Portland

WASHINGTONThe Governor, a Coast Hotel, Olympia

Coast Gateway Hotel, Seattle

Coast Bellevue Hotel, Bellevue

Coast Wenatchee Center, Wenatchee

ALASKA Coast International Inn, Anchorage

HAWAII Waimea Plantation Cottages, Kauai

COASTHOTELS.COM / 1.800.663.1144

We are also proud to offer 34 distinct properties in Western Canada and the U.S.

*photo - The Benson Hotel lobby in downtown Portland

ontrakmag.com WINTER 2016 | 23

Culture

Jim Henkens

23. Culinary | 24. Music | 25. On Stage | 27. Events

IF YOU DINE AT ANY one of Renee Erick-son’s runaway hit restaurants in Seattle, the influence of the chef ’s Pacific Northwest roots is apparent.

“My favorite childhood memories are almost all on the beach at Spee-Bi-Dah,” Erickson shared. “We spent our summers crabbing and fishing there and were able to enjoy the beauty and simplicity of cabin life in the Puget Sound.”

At the age of 25, she bought Boat Street Café, which she ran from 1998 to 2015. Now, the James Beard-nominated chef has two restau-rants (The Walrus and the Carpenter and The Whale Wins), an aperitivo bar (Barnacle Bar), a 1960 Divco dairy van that doubles as a catering truck (Narwhal) and a pickle business, Boat Street Pickles.

The latest addition, The Whale Wins, is bustling and convivial with an emphasis on small plates and sharing. Bon Appétit called the restaurant one of the ten most important new restaurants in the country. Here, almost everything is cooked in an applewood-burning oven—from a roasted half-chicken to season-al vegetables. Erickson describes The Whale Wins’ cuisine as worldly and simple.

“It’s French in spirit and execution, but like much contemporary American cooking, bor-rows freely from many cultures,” she said. Still, the menu weaves local foodstuffs throughout, including Hama Hama clams, Painted Hills beef, and yes, housemade pickles.

Like Erickson’s other spots, seafood reigns su-preme. “Every week it is different, but nothing is quite as lovely as a well-cooked piece of fish that is simply prepared,” said Erickson. As we settle into winter, the chef looks to more rustic dishes. “From wild mushrooms to oysters, the cooler months make me excited to really dig into the classics.” Who could disagree?

BY CHARYN PFEUFFER

Chef Spotlight

SEATTLE’S MUSEUM OF WIDE EYES AND DROPPED JAWS

MOHAI.org

Plan your Eugene getaway at EugeneCascadesCoast.org/Arts | 800.547.5445

JOB AICCORM12017

TITLE Help a Student FY15

CLIENT AICF

FILE AICCORM12017_4x4.9375_Allen

OFFICE USA–Portland

ECD Susan Hoffman/Mark Fitzloff

CD David Kennedy / Dan Wieden

AD Patty Orlando

CW Casey Hall

SA Cathy Ormerod

SM Corey Ingrasin

PM Jane Monaghan

AE Gina Keough

AB Kimberly Wilder

PHOTO Anna Menke

ILLUS n/a

DESIGN n/a

COLOR Peter Lindman

PUB OnTrak

ISSUE n/a

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USAGE Five Years (starts Jan 2012), North America, consumer + trade print, collateral, brochure, direct mail, industrial, video, retail, outdoor, POP, PR, events and internet.

One student can help an entire tribe.tribalcollege.org

AMERICAN INDIANCOLLEGE FUND

ontrakmag.com ontrakmag.com24 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 25

“DOES THAT MAKE SENSE? I’m mov-ing a lot when I’m talking to you, but you can’t see me,” Suzanne Haag said via phone. “In my line of work, speaking isn’t, like, a thing.”

Her line of work is professional ballet, so her most trusted form of expression is movement. Elegant movement, at that. Haag, has been with the Eugene Ballet Company since 2003, performing as the title role in multiple productions, touring the Northwest and teaching at the Eugene Ballet Academy.

“When I was little, I was like, ‘Oh, I’ll be a ballerina, of course,’” Haag said. Growing up in Connecticut, her inter-est in ballet piqued when she went to see The Nutcracker at age 2. “After that, of course, the road was definitely not so straight and easy.”

She trained at the School of the Hart-ford City Ballet before attending Butler University and studying arts administra-tion, just in case the ballerina thing didn’t work out. But then it did.

Haag’s dancing career started in Ken-tucky right after graduation and took a detour in Las Vegas before ending up in Eugene. Thirteen years later, she is work-ing on her first choreographed piece to be performed by the Eugene Ballet Compa-ny in April. It is in describing her chore-ography that Haag said she gets verbally tripped up. Though as a part-time teacher for the past nine years, her communication skills are perfectly suited for the layperson.

Three years ago, Haag co-created the interactive performance group, #insta-ballet, during which the audience cre-ates the choreography. The group was born from a desire to have ballet per-formances in the summer, during the company’s off-season. Staged in various venues during Eugene’s First Friday Art Walk, #instaballet integrated dancers and audience.

“It’s been really interesting for me as a choreographer, and a dancer, to see what the audience thinks and what they would prefer to see,” Haag said. The group quickly became a success and has since expanded into classrooms.

At 35, Haag is the oldest dancer in the Eugene Ballet Company. “If you make it to forty, you’re really, really lucky,” she said.

Speaking Through Movement

On Stage

AS MUSIC HISTORY has shown, bring-ing together different cultural influences can have revolutionary results. The Beatles brought in Ravi Shankar’s Indian classical music sensibilities, making the sitar a house-hold sound in the West. Aerosmith released their iconic song “Walk This Way” with Run DMC. Combining different genres turns music as we know it on its head. The Van-couver, BC-based ensemble Delhi 2 Dublin is successfully reinventing music fusion. Much like a good recipe, they combine many ingredients, creating a balance that lets each influence’s flavor shine. The band’s Indian Bhangra, Celtic, dub and electronic sounds result in something altogether for-eign, yet intriguing to the ear. The current iteration of the Canadian group is made up of touring members Serena Eades on violin and James Hussain on guitar, and found-ing members Sanjay Seran (vocals), Tarun

Nayar (tabla and electronics), and Ravi Bin-ning (dhol and dholak). The band’s self-titled debut in 2008 hit number three in Canadian world music charts. With its most recent al-

bum, We’re All Desi, this troupe continues to explore the fringes of the musical landscape and presents something we can all gravitate toward—good, high-energy music.

Album Review

Keeping with its signature sound of Bhangra and Celtic music, the band’s album We’re All Desi adds a hyp-notic element of hard-hitting EDM (electronic dance music) into the mix. While each of the eleven tracks has a pristine and produced sheen, there’s a raw, earnest nature in the vocal delivery that helps the instrumenta-tion soar.

WE’RE ALL DESI

Delhi 2 DublinBY STIRLING MYLES

CENTER STAGE & UP 'N' COMINGMusicians

Train TracksA few music tracks from regional

artists for your journeyLISTEN HERE:

ontrakmag.com/traintracks

The Littlest BirdsThe Be Good Tanyas - Vancouver, BC

MykonosFleet Foxes - Seattle, WA

Mother MotherTracy Bonham - Eugene, OR

The WindsAlela Diane - Portland, OR

Mind IdeaJeremy Enigk - Mt. Vernon, WA

Read Myles’ extended interview with Sanjay Seran at ontrakmag.com/delhi2dublin

SHAPE & FORM

BY ANNA BIRD

Suzanne Haag performing in Toni Pimble’s Dark Side of the Moon on the Hult Center stage in Eugene.

ontrakmag.com WINTER 2016 | 27

OREGONEVENTS CALENDAR

GOLDEN STATE WARRIORS VS. PORTLAND TRAILBLAZERS Moda CenterFebruary 19PRICES VARYnba.com/blazers2015 MVP Stephen Curry squares off against Damian Lillard in a battle of the West’s best point guards. It’s the last time the reigning champion Warriors visit Portland this season, and the Moda Center is an ideal spot to take in pro basketball in the Northwest.

POLAR PLUNGEBroughton BeachFebruary 27plungeoregon.comPlungers compete to raise the most money, with the proceeds going to Special Olympics Oregon. Watch good Samaritans flirt with hypothermia in the frigid Columbia, all in the name of charity.

MARVEL UNIVERSE LIVE!Moda CenterMarch 3-6PRICES VARYrosequarter.comAll your favorite Marvel superhe-roes jump off the pages of comic books and theater screens to thwart villains in real life.

PORTLAND TIMBERS HOME SEASON OPENERProvidence ParkMarch PRICES VARYtimbers.comPortland soccer fanatics have bought up every seat in the house since the team was founded in 2009. Consider yourself the bear-er of the golden ticket if you’re lucky enough to be joining the Timbers Army for this one.

60TH ANNUAL PORTLAND ROADSTER SHOWPortland Expo CenterMarch 16-20$16, children 12 and under freeportlandroadstershow.comCelebrating its diamond anniver-sary, this classic car show is older than some of the classic cars on display.

IAAF World Indoor Track and Field ChampionshipsOregon Convention CenterMarch 17-20PRICES VARYportland2016.com

WILL CENTRAL OREGON’S HOMETOWN hero Ashton Eaton, “The Greatest Athlete on Earth,” repeat as heptathlon champion? Will he better his world-record per-formance? You can find out in person this March as Portland plays host to the biannual Super Bowl of international indoor track and field. It’s the first time in nearly three decades that the meet is being held on U.S. soil. The venue is just a short train ride north of Track Town USA, home of Hayward Field and the Oregon Ducks’ historic track and field program. Ducks travel in flocks and that will probably be the case at the 2016 World Indoors as Eaton, his wife, Brianne Theisen-Eaton, Galen Rupp (all U of O alumni) and newcomer Jenna Prandini (a current Duck) are favorites to qualify and compete against the world for gold in Portland.

EUGENEZWICKELMANIAEugene, Salem, Portlandoregoncraftbeer.orgFebruary 13FREEOtherwise known simply as Beer Day, this is an annual tradition where breweries host meet-the-brewer events, pour generous samples and celebrate the state’s number one libation.

OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVALEugene and NewbergJanuary 16-31$450-$575oregontrufflefestival.com

In its eleventh year, the Oregon Truffle Festival will add the Joriad North American Truffle Dog Championship and an exploration of the terroir of Yamhill Valley to spread the revered event over three weekends. Truffle fanciers can delight in the culinary event of the season with dinners, tastings, seminars and more.

EUGENE BALLET COMPANY PRESENTS THE GREAT GATSBYHult Center for the Performing ArtsApril 9-10$32-$65eugeneballet.orgToni Pimble’s glamorour and stylish ballet vision of F. Scott

Fitzgerald’s classic American Novel is sure to dazzle you.

SALEMWILLAMETTE VALLEY WINE & JAZZ FESTIVAL The Oregon Garden, Silvertonoregongarden.orgMarch 27-28FREEJazz music, wine and other ac-tivities will spill over the town of Silverton for two days in March.

PORTLANDCHOCOLATEFESTOregon Convention CenterJanuary 22-24TICKET PRICE TBAchocolatefest.orgTaste chocolates made by more than sixty of the world’s top vendors to support the World For-estry Foundation. Dream turned reality for every Oregonian with a sweet tooth.

FERTILE GROUND FESTIVALCitywideJanuary 21-31SINGLE DAY TICKETS VARY, FESTIVAL PASSES $50fertilegroundpdx.orgA celebration of new artistic work created by the minds of Portlanders. The festival, which sprawls the city, showcases world premiers of theatrical, dance, and comedic performances, as well as visual art and film.

PORTLAND SEAFOOD & WINE FESTIVALOregon Convention CenterFebruary 5-6TICKET PRICE TBApdxseafoodandwinefestival.comHeld in the middle of Dunge-ness crab season, this festival combines two Oregon favorites: seafood and local wines.

26TH CASCADE FESTIVAL OF AFRICAN FILMSVarious venuesFebruary 5-March 5TICKET PRICE TBAafricanfilmfestival.orgShooting for the silver screen reaches far beyond Hollywood. View one or all of the films produced by African filmmakers at this month-long event.

HAGG LAKE MUD RUN-ULTRA 50K AND 25KHagg Lake, GastonFebruary 13-14 $65-$80orrc.netTell your friend who’s still bragging about finishing that 10k that you’re training for a 50k. In the mud. This ultra is a whole new level.

PORTLAND JAZZ FESTIVALMultiple venuesFebruary 18-28PRICES VARYportlandjazzfestival.org This year’s festival will be full of tributes to Coltrane, and touts a lineup of more than 150 jazz acts from across the globe.

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WashingtonEVENTS CALENDAR

VANCOUVERVANCOUVER SPRING BREWFESTEsther Short ParkMarch 18-19TICKETS TBAvancouverbrewfest.comYou don’t have to wait until summer for the onslaught of beer festivals. Vancouver Spring Brewfest allows you to sample local beers while watching March Madness games.

OLYMPIA-LACEYCAPITAL FOOD & WINE FESTIVALSaint Martin’s UniversityMarch 19 $10-$15, CHILDREN UNDER 12 FREEcapitalfoodandwinefestival.comThis family-friendly event combines favorite foods from the local dining scene with music and more. Adults can sample from forty microbrews and more than 100 varietals from Washington wineries.

TACOMAMUSEUM OF GLASS PRESENTS HEALING IN THE FLAMESMuseum of GlassThrough MarchADMISSION PRICES VARYmuseumofglass.orgAdmire the breathtaking and thought-provoking work of veter-ans of the Iraq and Afghanistan wars, who choose art to deal with the effects of war.

SEATTLEAC2 AN INTIMATE NIGHT WITH ANDERSON COOPER & ANDY COHENParamount TheatreJanuary 16 $60-$102, $375 VIPstgpresents.orgThe Emmy award-winning late-night talk show host and CNN anchor exchange questions in a news and pop culture discussion without the commercial breaks.

MODEL RAILROAD SHOWPacific Science CenterJanuary 16-18ADMISSION $11.75-$19.75pacificsciencecenter.orgA forty-two-year tradition in Se-attle, this exhibit has an elaborate display of countless trains just like the one you’re riding, only shrunk down about 300,000 times.

CHILDREN’S FILM FESTIVAL SEATTLENorthwest Film ForumJanuary 21-31TICKET PRICE TBAnwfilmforum.orgThe largest film festival on the West Coast dedicated to fami-ly-friendly movies for the kids.

30TH SEATTLE IMPROVISED MUSIC FESTIVAL Good Shepherd CenterFebruary 4-6$5-$15 DONATIONwaywardmusic.orgLike nothing you’ve heard before; all the performances are purely free-form music.

FREE PARK DAYSMount Rainier & Olympic national parksFebruary 13-15FREEnps.govCelebrate Presidents’ Day week-end at the highest mountain in the Pacific Northwest. Mount Rainier was once visited by Theodore Roosevelt, William Taft and Harry

Truman. Also explore the coastal rainforest at Olympic Nation-al Park, originally created by Theodore Roosevelt and officially designated as a national park by Franklin Roosevelt in 1938.

CUPID’S UNDIE RUNArt Marble 21February 20January 16-February 5 EARLY REGISTRATION $45, FEBRU-ARY 6-FEBRUARY 13, $55cupidsundierun.comRelive college for a day. And don’t worry about being ticketed for indecency; this run’s for charity.

CHILLY HILLY Bainbridge Island Ferry RampFebruary 28TICKET PRICE TBA

cascade.orgThis annual kick-off to the cycling season, named “one of four clas-sic rides in the nation” by Bicycling Magazine, loops thirty-three miles around the perimeter of the island, and offers plenty of Puget Sound views.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGIONAL YO-YO CHAMPIONSHIPSSeattle CenterFebruary 20FREEseattlecenter.comGive your eyeballs a workout trying to keep up with the best yo-yoers in the region as they perform tricks that make walking the dog look like child’s play.

CULTURAL CROSSROADS FESTIVALBellevue Shopping CenterMarch 11-13FREEredtri.comYou’ll feel far from Washington at this festival, which includes an international bazaar, handmade crafts, and thirty-five different ethnic music and dance perfor-mances

IRISH FESTIVALSeattle CenterMarch 12-13FREEseattlecenter.comCatch the parade and then head into the festival for some jigging, Gaelic gaming, or if you’re curious about how you got to the branch you’re sitting on in your family tree, you can trace your own Irish heritage during a session with a genealogist.

AUTHORS, PUBLISHERS, AND READERS OF INDEPENDENT LITERATURE FESTIVALCapitol HillMarch 14-20FREEaprilfestival.comThe name might be a little misleading, but the APRIL festival is happening in March, and it’s an opportunity to get exposed to small press publishers and writers in the Northwest.

HOP SCOTCH BEER & SCOTCH FESTIVALFremont StudiosMarch 25-26TICKET PRICES TBAhopscotchtasting.comThere are too many beer festivals in the Northwest to count, but not many are also dedicated to Winston Churchill and Humphrey Bogart’s spirit of choice, so you’ll want to attend this one.

BELLINGHAMDR. STEPHEN ROBINSON: THIS SIDE OF IMPOSSIBLE —ACHIEVING THE DREAM OF SPACEFLIGHTMount Baker TheatreFebruary 6$10-$29mountbakertheatre.comIf you were blown away by Grav-ity, or you ever wanted to be an astronaut as a kid, you won’t want to miss this dynamic presenta-tion. Dr. Stephen Robinson, a thir-ty-six year veteran of NASA, will give a rare insider’s look into the space program as he talks about four of his missions into space.

Itzhak PerlmanBenaroya HallFebruary 29TICKET PRICES VARYseattle-theatre.com

HE PERFORMED ON THE “Ed Sullivan Show” at age 13, at President Barack Obama’s in-auguration and guest-starred on “Sesame Street.” Perlman is considered one of the greatest violinists to ever rosin a bow. Aside from headlining acts across the world with names such as Yo-Yo Ma, Placido Domingo and Emmanuel Ax, he’s also reached legendary status for his work in films. Perlman’s solo performance in the theme of Schindler’s List went on to win the Academy Award for Best Original Score at the 66th Oscars. He’s also won several Emmy’s and more Grammy’s than The Beatles. Naturally, the best only performs with the best instruments. Perlman plays the Sauret Guarneri del Gesu and Soil Stradivarius violin, crafted by the world’s greatest violin makers in 1743 and 1714 respectively.

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Vancouver, BCEVENTS CALENDAR

VANCOUVERDINE OUT VANCOUVER FESTIVALCitywideJanuary 15-31TICKET PRICES TBAdineoutvancouver.comCanada’s largest food and drink festival offers a taste of Western Canada’s finest cuisine at restau-rants throughout the city and events such as chef-led dining explorations, brunch crawls and street food markets.

PUSH INTERNATIONAL PERFORMING ARTS FESTIVAL110-750 Hamilton St.January 19-February 7 CA$60-$208 FOR PUSH PASSES, SINGLE TICKET PRICES VARYpushfestival.caAcclaimed international, Cana-dian, and local stars converge on stage to perform contemporary dance.

VANCOUVER HOT CHOCOLATE FESTIVALCitywideLate January-early FebruaryPRICES VARYcityfood.comCafés, wine bars and bakeries across the metropolitan area con-jure and serve their most creative nontraditional hot chocolate fla-vors, such as past year’s favorites Barry Callebaut White Chocolate, Mountain Berry Marshmallow and Five Spice Dragon.

WINTERRUPTIONGranville IslandThird week in FebruaryFREEgranvilleisland.comWinter can become bleary, but this art, music and dance festival will brighten the season.

FESTIVAL DU BOISMackin ParkMarch 4-6$12 FOR ADULTS, $5 FOR CHILDREN 12 AND UNDER, $30 FOR FAMILIES OF 4vancouversbestplaces.comCalling all burley boys: If you’ve got a beard, you’re eligible to compete for the title of 2016 lum-berjack at the largest francophone festival on the West Coast.

VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL DANCE FESTIVALVarious venuesMarch dates TBATICKET PRICES TBAvidf.caSee some of the top acts from Canada and beyond perform styles of multicultural dance.

CELTICFEST Granville StreetMarch 10-17SOME EVENTS ARE FREEcelticfestvancouver.comWhatever you do, don’t forget to wear green.

PLAYDOMEBC PlaceMarch 14-22$29bcplacestadium.comKids can get restless during the cold, rainy months. Take them to Canada’s largest indoor carnival and they’ll have plenty to keep them occupied with more than forty-five rides and attractions.

VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL AUTO SHOWVancouver Convention CentreMarch 23-27WEEKEND PRICES: $18 ADULTS, FREE FOR CHILDREN 6 AND UNDERvancouverinternationalautoshow.comWhether you’re looking for a new self-driving car (yep, those exist now), or a diesel-guzzling pickup with a hemi under the hood, this is the place to find your next automobile.

SHEN YUN SYMPHONY ORCHESTRAQueen Elizabeth TheatreJanuary 22-24CA$60-$170shenyun.comUnlike your typical symphonic performance in the United States, the Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra incorporates classic Chinese instruments such as the two-stringed, high pitched erhus and Chinese lutes known as pipas.

CALGARY FLAMES VS. VANCOUVER CANUCKSRogers ArenaFebruary 6CA$60-$334.25canucks.nhl.comLast year was the first time the bitter rivals faced off in the playoffs in more than a decade. In game two alone, both sides spent 132 minutes in the penalty box. If you want to see Canadian hockey with tensions at their highest, this is the game to attend.

CHINESE NEW YEAR PARADEChinatownFebruary 7 FREEvancouversbestplaces.comWith the second-highest Chinese population in Canada, Vancouver always puts on an authentic and jubilant New Year’s celebration.

VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVALVarious venuesFebruary 12-20$17 IN ADVANCE, $19 AT DOORviff.orgOne of the largest film festivals in North America, VIFF showcases movies from some of the top-ris-ing filmmakers.

JFL NORTHWESTVarious venuesFebruary 18-27TICKET PRICES TBAjflnorthwest.comNorthWest Comedy Fest part-nered up with Just For Laughs, the biggest comedy brand in the world, to present this ten-day event of sketch, standup and improv comedy.

VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVALCitywideFebruary 20-28TICKET PRICES TBAvanwinefest.ca156 wineries from fourteen countries across the world will be on hand at the event. This year’s theme is Italy, so there should be plenty of Piedmont vintages to go around.

HSBC World Rugby Sevens Series - Round Six

BC PlaceMarch 12-13TICKET PRICES VARYcanadasevens.com

THE WORLD’S TOP SEVEN-MAN rugby squads are making a stop in Vancouver this March. It’s the first chance for rugby fans to see national powerhouses such as the All Blacks, Springboks and Wallabies playing in Canada. The World Sevens Series consists of ten tournaments in ten countries, with the title awarded at the end of the season to the team accumulates the most points based on tournament placing. All Blacks rugby is followed like a religion in New Zealand and the Kiwis owned the Series in its early years, winning the first six titles. Now, other teams such as South Africa, Fiji and Samoa are emerging to international prominence. Rugby is making its Olympic debut this summer in Rio de Janie-ro and this is one of the last opportunities to see these athletes on the pitch before they head to Brazil.

Ontrak Spring Issue.indd 1 2/4/2015 12:08:32 PM

ontrakmag.com WINTER 2016 | 33

AHH, THE REMOTE SURF mecca of Tofino! Though it sounds as if it could be a tropical island in a Mediterranean ar-chipelago, Tofino is situated at the south end of Clayoquot Sound on the western coast of Vancouver Island. Nevertheless, this small town (population 1,876) has more than twenty miles of beach break, and a strong, consistent swell during winter months making it a prime Pacific Northwest surf destination. If it weren’t for the weather, Tofino beaches would feel much like Hawaii—rugged, exotic and surrounded by wilderness. Unlike Hawaii, water temperatures stay a con-stant 50°F, so a 4/3 wetsuit is de rigueur.

Though it lacks in tropical tempera-tures, Tofino’s warmth comes from its communal vibe, especially for women. While many surfing communities are male dominant, Tofino is extraordinary in that you’ll find nearly as many wom-en in the water as men. There’s also an annual all-women Queen of the Peak surf competition that celebrates West Coast female talent.

For beginners, “Tofino is one of the best places to learn how to surf,” said Krissy Montgomery, owner of Surf Sister. Huge tides create mellow waves; there’s plenty of room for all surfers to learn or advance their skills in the postcard-perfect surroundings.

Winter Surfing in Tofino

Outdoors

BY CHARYN PFEUFFER

33. Outdoors | 34. Gear Up | 36. Notes from the Adventure | 40. Weekenders

PHOTOS BY KEVIN LIGHT

ontrakmag.com34 | WINTER 2016

Outdoors

GEAR

AFTANAS SURFBOARDS1024 Campbell Street | Tofino, BC | 250.725.2211 | aftanas.caOwner Stefan Aftanas has been designing and shaping custom surfboards for more than sixteen years. He also runs Board-Medic, a business that repairs damaged surfboards.

SLINGSHOT SPORTS1218 Wasco Street Hood River, OR 509.427.4950 slingshotsports.comFor paddlers who want something between a rigid and inflatable SUP board, Slingshot’s hybrid soft top Cross-breed is the answer.

MOMENT SURF COMPANY33260 Cape Kiwanda Drive Pacific City, OR | 503.483.1025 momentsurfco.comStock up on surf gear essentials, plus locally-made surfboards by North Pacific Surfboards, Russo Surfboards and Northwest Surf Design.

KIALOA PADDLES747 SE Business Way Bend, OR | kialoa.com Hawaiian Dave Chun made Bend, Oregon his home and, from there, makes the industry’s best stand-up paddles.

Where to go Cox Bay, named in

honor of British Mer-chant John Henry Cox, has the most consistent beach break in the area. It can get big and rippy in the winter, but its flat, sandy bottom is a thing of surfers’ dreams.

Locals go to Florencia Bay (aka Wreck Beach or “Flo” for short), located at the south end of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Hugged by old-growth forests, the picturesque beach is a twenty-five-minute drive south of Tofino, but uncrowded waves make it well worth the trek.

In 2010, Outside Maga-zine declared Chester-man Beach “one of the best beginner breaks in North America.” It’s Can-ada’s most popular beach for learning how to surf.

Feeling adventurous?

Try your hand at stand-up paddle surfing with T’ashii Paddle School (tofinopaddle.com), a First Nations-owned and -operated business. Owner and instruc-tor Emre Bosut leads experiential courses that combine local culture with basic theory.

For an even wilder experience, check out Bruhwiler Surf School’s (bruhwilersurf.com) remote surf tours that

take enthusiasts to difficult-to-access surf locales via boat.

Places to rent in TofinoSEPP BRUHWILER’S WESTSIDE SURF 150 4 St. 250.725.2404

LIVE TO SURF1184 Pacific Rim Hwy. 250.725.4464

STORM SURF SHOP444 Campbell St. 250.725.3344

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ontrakmag.com36 | WINTER 2016

ALONG THE EASTERN watershed of Washington’s North Cascades, just south of the Canadian border, small hiccups of towns pop along the Methow River. There is (north to south) Mazama, Winthrop and Twisp. In winter, this is the setting of the Nordic skiing mecca of the Pacific Northwest.

With more than 120 miles of trails perfectly groomed for Nordic skiing, the Methow Valley feels like a local version of the Austrian Tirol region, where towns are connected by flawlessly groomed ski trails.

There are many ways to do the Methow Valley right. One is to book a hut or

huts through the Rendez-vous Huts system (rendez-voushuts.com), about ten miles north of Winthrop. During peak season, the five huts cost around $200 per night and sleep eight to ten people. Ski in with packs on your back or get snowmobile

transport for your gear. We had an agenda that

included junior ski races and opted for the more acces-sible Sun Mountain Lodge, a classic ski lodge on the edge of rustic and chic, and with views of the Methow Valley and the Okano-

gan-Wenatchee National Forest. Walk out the door and onto sixty kilometers of groomed trails right from the lodge. You can rent skis and snowshoes at the lodge, too. Rooms run $200 to $300 per night during the height of ski season. About six miles up Patterson Lake Road and away from Winthrop, Sun Mountain Lodge has a range of dining options, from fine dining with table cloths and wine to a casual grill with a split pine bar and craft beer taps.

The first day, we hit the Methow Valley Nordic Festival, an event that brings in Nordic

Notes FromThe AdventureTRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN

BY KEVIN MAX

Skiing town to town with family in tow James Harnois

The Nordic Mecca of Methow Valley

James Harnois ABOVE Skiing Methow Valley’s more than 120 miles of trails. LEFT A Rendezvous Hut sleeps eight to ten.

Meet. Eat. Sleep.

Minutes from the Salem, Oregon Amtrak StationComplimentary shuttle to and from The Grand Hotel

503-540-7800 201 Liberty St. SE Salem, OR 97301

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EDWARD CURTIS LEGACYFEBRUARY 6 – MAY 8

Zig Jackson Wendy Red Star Will Wilson

TOP: Edward Sheri� Curtis, Assiniboin Mother and Child (detail), 1926, plate 632 from the portfolio The North American Indian, volume 10, The Kwakiutl, photogravure; BOTTOM: Wendy Red Star, Untitled, 2015, Courtesy of artist.

ontrakmag.com38 | WINTER 2016

Outdoorsskiers of all levels, but mostly at the higher levels. There are citizen

races for the people more serious about competition aversion, like me. Sight-ski-ing, I call it. If that sounds too aggressive, bring a cam-era and stop to use it often.

The next day, we jumped on the trails surrounding Sun Mountain Lodge. These hills are alive with the sound of music. We were gone for hours and lost in beauty be-fore heading back to the lodge for a hot tub, a change of clothes and drinks by the fire.

We had dinner in the lodge bar and grill, then read books under thick down blankets in our room. “Ner-dic” skiers at rest.

The next day, we drove back into picture-perfect Winthrop and plundered the literary riches of Trail’s End Bookstore, avoiding any titles with “The So and So’s Son” or “The So and So’s Daugh-ter.” A few doors down was a leavened heaven of pastries—Rocking Horse Bakery.

Winthrop is a former gold mining town along the Methow River of no more than 2,000 people and storefronts that have been built or re-stored to turn-of-the-century Western-style. The town was named for Theodore Win-throp, an 1848 Yale University graduate who came west to enjoy the open air before fight-ing in and dying for the Union Army in the American Civil War. The officer reportedly got up on a stump and bravely offered, “One more charge boys, and the day is ours.” Just then, he took a musket ball to the heart.

Our ski outing on this day was a point-to-point

that began in Winthrop and winded thirty kilometers north to Mazama. While my wife and kids made that trek, I shuttled the car to Maza-ma. “Thirty more kilometers, ladies, and this trail is yours!” I thought as I drove away. In the lee of the towering Goat Wall in Mazama, I clipped into my skis and departed on a three-hour ski through for-ested woodlands, past farms and along the valley floor as sunlight increasingly burned off the mist of morning fog.

All trails lead to the Maza-ma Store, which is billed as “a little bit of everything good.” This made for a good ren-dezvous point for lunch. The bustling general store has local gourmet cheese, wine, soups, sandwiches, a deli counter and a small eating area. We grabbed a bottle of locally made Lost River cabernet sau-vignon for later that night.

Back in Winthrop, while Sarah and the girls alienated me with light, indiscrimi-nant shopping (as they often do), I took a detour to the brewery (as I often do). The Old Schoolhouse Brewery

should play some prominent role in any trip to this area. Backing up to the crystal clear Methow River, Old Schoolhouse makes really good beer from this local water. I tried on the nation-al award-winning imperial stout, which fit me well.

That night, we lit out for Twisp, about nine miles south, a small town of 900 people, where an Italian restaurant, Tappi, is its cultural center. Discovering Tappi, a tiny restaurant built around an open kitchen and wood-fired oven, is like a collector stumbling upon a signed rare book at a garage sale—unexpected and thrill-ing. It brings together pizza and pasta traditions of the owner’s heritage in northern and southern Italy.

Though we kicked and glided and strode for three days straight, we managed to skim only the surface of the vast trail network of the Methow Valley. As we departed for Oregon, I won-dered what the winter trails would look like for running in summer.

EatTappiWood-fired Italian goodness and house-made pasta that takes you back to small-town Italy.201 Glover Street, Twisp509.997.3345tappitwisp.com

Rocking Horse BakeryA killer bakery in the heart of Winthrop. Breads, pastries, soup and sandwiches are Rocking Horse specialties.265 Riverside Avenue, Winthrop509.996.4241rockinghorsebakery.com

StaySun Mountain LodgeA beautiful property well-sit-uated for skiers. It has rooms with hand-crafted furniture, a dining room, a bar and grill, a spa and 60 kilometers of skiing out the door.604 Patterson Lake Road, Winthrop509.996.2211sunmountainlodge.com

Rendezvous HutsFive cozy huts spaced in 8K intervals along groomed trails outside of Mazama. Huts come with a full kitchen and sleeping pads for eight to ten people.Winthrop509.996.8100rendezvoushuts.com

PlayMethow Trails Expect 200 kilometers of groomed trails through the scenic Methow Valley. An adult day pass is $24. Kids 17 and young ski free.309 Riverside Avenue, Winthrop509.996.3287methowtrails.org

ontrakmag.com ontrakmag.com40 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 41

WHEN MY HUSBAND and I decided to spend a week-end exploring Tacoma’s mu-seums with our 2-year-old twins, we were apprehensive about finding enough to keep everyone busy.

Tacoma may have a rep-utation as playing second fiddle to Seattle, but it is first rate when it comes to family entertainment. Our museum experience seemed to start as soon as we reached the Hotel Murano. Each floor features glass sculptures from a different artist. It was a good preface for a visit to the Museum of Glass the following morning. The highlight for me was watch-ing artists shape glass in the hot shop. Dad and the kids enjoyed the Dale Chihuly sculptures.

While the girls begged for

pizza for lunch, my husband was itching for televised football, so we walked to Harmon Brewing Company. We weren’t brave enough to try the PB&B burger (a beef patty topped with peanut butter and bacon jam). Nonetheless, the burgers, pies and beer we did con-sume were delicious.

My husband took nap duty so I could check out the Tacoma Art Museum. The current special exhibit is Art AIDS America, which explores the role art played in raising awareness and spurring action during the AIDS crisis in the 1980s. It was an educational, deeply moving look into our coun-

Breakfast at Shakabrah Java

Art glass and luxury at Hotel Murano

Jellyfish at Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium

The Museums of TacomaBY SOPHIA MCDONALD

EATHarmon Brewing Company

harmonbrewingco.com

Over the Moon Café overthemooncafe.net

Shakabrah Java facebook.com/shakabrahjava

STAYHotel Murano

hotelmuranotacoma.com

PLAYMuseum of Glass

Permanent Chihuly collection; live glass-blowing demonstra-tions, and DIY fused glass tile

museumofglass.org

Tacoma Art Museum Permanent and changing

exhibits, including Art AIDS America through January 10

tacomaartmuseum.org

LeMay – America’s Car Museum

Cars old and new, plus fun activities for kids

americascarmuseum.org

Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium

The 700-acre Point Defiance park also has walking trails,

beaches with tide pools, picnic areas and a playground.

pdza.org metroparkstacoma.org

Harold LeMay amassed one of the largest private car

collections in the world prior to his death in 2000. Harold LeMay Enterprises was once

the 10th largest refuse disposal company in the country. LeMay also invested in real estate and

owned several other car-re-lated businesses. His family continues to collect vintage

cars today.

The Washington State Histo-rical Society sells a Tacoma

Museum Pass, which entitles bearers to discounts at four

Tacoma museums. Purchase one at

washingtonhistory.org

Dale Chihuly, one of the wor-ld’s most famous glass artists, was born in Tacoma in 1941. He

studied art at the University of Washington. In 1971, he

co-founded the Pilchuck Glass School in Stanwood, a small

town north of Seattle.

Among the sweet treats that got their start in Tacoma: Baskin-Robbins ice cream,

Milky Way bars and Almond Roca (the latter’s production

facility is still here).

A bridge between Pacific Ave-nue and the Museum of Glass

has large display cases with dozens of Chihuly sculptures.

View his art there if you’re short on time or cash.

Weekender

try’s not-so-distant past. Fully rested, the kids dove

headlong into the activities at the LeMay Car Museum. Besides admiring dozens of vehicles built over the past 100 years, they loved build-ing and racing pinewood cars and climbing behind the wheel of a 1920s Dodge in the Family Zone. Older kids would enjoy driving one of the racing simulators.

My sister came down from Seattle to spend the after-noon with us, and babysat for us so my husband and I could have dinner out. We’d heard good things

about Over the Moon Café in the historic St. Helens area. With an emphasis on Italian and French cuisine, a highlight was the wild Pacific Coho salmon with warm ba-con jam and duck breast in a port reduction. The wine list focused on Washington and Italian bottles, with a measure of Oregon and California, too. On the way back, we made a decadent detour to Hello, Cupcake for French toast and salted caramel cupcakes.

Our plan was to spend Sunday morning at the Point Defiance Zoo and Aquari-um. On the way there, we

found Shakabrah Java on 6th Avenue, one of Tacoma’s best breakfast spots. This bakery and café is famous for its outsized and delicious omelets and pancakes. The coffee was good, too.

At the zoo, we stayed in-doors to ogle the jellyfish and touch sharks and stingrays in the aquarium. In the sum-mer, there are more options outdoors, playing in the Kids’ Zone or going to the park for a picnic by the water.

While we headed back to the train station on a wet November day, we plotted a warm-weather return.

WeekenderMAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND

Did You Know?D.Y.K.

OPPOSITE The hot shop at the Museum of Glass. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Classic cars on display at LeMay Car Museum. Indoor exhibits at the Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium. One of Dale Chi-luly’s Venetian pieces on display at the Museum of Glass. The Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium carousel.

Museum of Glass

George R. Stroemple Collection

John Froschauer

Stephen Cridland

ontrakmag.com ontrakmag.com42 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 43

SIRENS PUB

INN AT LANGLEY

SARATOGA INN

IN SUMMER MONTHS, ferry queues stretch enor-mously long with is-land-bound cars. Excited, sunglass-wielding folks clam-or as they snap ferry deck selfies, soaking up the Pacific Northwest summer. In win-ter, however, these crowds dwindle, and only those in the know cross over to the is-

lands. Winter travelers—clad in warmer and waterproof clothing—realize that, across these steely gray waters, a divine secret awaits.

Envision curling up in a soft chair—wool blanket on lap, steaming latte (or Irish coffee) in hand—gazing out at nature’s tempestuous tantrums from the comfort

of your accommodations. From November through March, winter storms pummel the Pacific Coast. Moody skies swirl, clouds race, winds howl, and swells spray, churning up a specta-cle you won’t soon forget. For prime storm watching from all sides, head to Whidbey Island in Washington.

Although the fifty-mile-long island can be expe-rienced sans car, having a vehicle proves much easier. Consider making

StormwatchingA luxurious refuge

where you can escape the weather without leaving the natural

beauty of the outdoors.

A comfortable atmosphere with

refreshing vistas. Curl up next to the fireplace or

rock the afternoon away on the porch.

In the state of Washington, Whidbey is the largest island (followed by Orcas).

ON WHIDBEY

MORE

BY CORINNE WHITING

WeekenderMAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND

A warm place to grab a hearty bite and a

stiff drink. Opt for the Puget Sound cioppino

and a local beer from Port Townsend

Brewery.

VISIT WHIDBEY’S GREENBANK FARM

A one-stop-shopping hub for all things delicious; pick up some local cheese and wine

for later, and enjoy a slice of seasonal pie accompanied by a cup of Whidbey Coffee.

A strait separating Whidbey Island and Fidalgo Island. Afterward, pop into local

favorite, the Shrimp Shack.

EXPLORE WHIDBEY’S DECEPTION PASS

In Port Townsend, this former military base that starred in the 1982 blockbuster hit An Officer and a Gentleman, featuring Richard

Gere and Debra Winger. Point Wilson is the best spot for watching storms.

WANDER THE LOVELY GROUNDS OF FORT WORDEN

A thunderstorm rolls over Port Townsend.

Edmund Lowe

Weekender

the charming Langley your storm-watching headquar-ters, traveling to the island via a twenty-minute ferry that shuttles to Clinton from Mukilteo on the mainland. Note: The Everett Amtrak station is a fifteen-minute drive from the Mukilteo ferry dock. Once on Whid-bey, a free weekday bus runs between the Clinton ferry and Langley.

On terra firma in Whid-bey, travel about eight miles from Clinton to the Inn at Langley, a decadent refuge where rooms come with a private, waterfront deck and a fireplace. “It’s great sitting in the window seats with a drink and a fire,” said Matt Costello, the Inn’s award-winning chef and general manager. “The view is really expansive, so you can see the great reach of the clouds … makes you feel

small. The waves can really build, and you get these great crashes against the bulkhead below your room.”

In a layout designed to complement the outdoor marvels, you can relax in a soaking tub while simultane-ously watching the fire and the sea, or savor a spa treat-ment in a room from which you can hear the crashing waves outside. “Our motto is that the Inn at Langley is a retreat, not a resort,” said Costello. “It’s where the forest meets the sea. At those inter-sections is where the greatest transformations take place, so the design tries to provide the best vantage point to witness this.”

If you dare to brave the ele-ments, Costello recommends driftwood-dotted Double Bluff Beach in South Whid-bey as “without a doubt, the best storm-watching spot on

the island.” Other fantastic swell-spotting hangouts in Langley include waterfront venues Village Pizzeria, Portico Latin Bistro, the Primo Bistro and the Ott and Murphy winery.

Elsewhere on the island, adventurous people bundle up to brave the weather at Fort Casey (with old bunkers to explore), Fort Ebey and Deception Pass. Consider a detour off the island via the Coupeville ferry, which lands you in the heart of downtown Port Townsend, another welcoming gem anchored by history, the arts, small-town charm and a mellow, modern-day buzz. When storms blow in, grab a warm seat at one of Port Townsend’s waterfront spots—Sirens Pub and Bel-mont Restaurant. Get cozy, order something tasty and enjoy the show.

EATPrimo BistroEnjoy French-inspired Pacific Northwest cuisine and an extensive wine list featuring a bounty of local varietals (plus live music every Thursday).201 1/2 1st St., Langley360.221.4060primabistro.com

Alchemy Bistro & Wine BarIn Port Townsend, savor Med-iterranean food and wine in a delightful space created by the owners of Sirens pub, another local favorite.842 Washington St., Port Townsend360.385.5225alchemybistroandwinebar.com

STAYThe Inn at LangleyAn island retreat perched above the Saratoga Passage, this luxury hotel and spa offers coastal and mountain views from every room as well as de-lectable, seasonal fare prepared by award-winning Chef Matt Costello.400 First St., Langley360.221.3033innatlangley.com

Saratoga InnEnjoy beauty and charm in this venue that has water views, fireplaces, homemade breakfast, hot beverages throughout the day and an afternoon treat of wine and cheese.201 Cascade Ave., Langley360.221.5801saratogainnwhidbeyisland.com

PLAYFort Ebey State Park While on Whidbey, be sure to explore Fort Ebey State Park, a 645-acre camping park that has three miles of saltwater shoreline on the Strait of Juan de Fuca, a freshwater lake and miles of hiking and biking trails.400 Hill Valley Dr., Coupeville360.678.4636parks.state.wa.us

The passing of a storm on Whidbey Island.

Wyat Taylor

ontrakmag.com ontrakmag.com44 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 45

DROP INDROP INDROP INThe Best Fitness Stops

on the Amtrak Cascades JourneyBY ANDES HRUBY

ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRENDAN LOSCAR

Travel is an invitation to indulge.

Here are some secrets to successful travel fitness that still allow you to embrace every beer and bite—without losing tone or being terrorized by your calorie counter or Fitbit.

ontrakmag.com ontrakmag.com46 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 47

6 OF OUR FAVORITE DROP-INS ALONG THE AMTRAK CASCADES ROUTE

EUGENE

Hard Core Yoga2734 Shadow View Dr.541.729.5031yogaeugene.com

Why we like Hard Core Yoga:GI Jane meets the Dali Lama. Balance of physical exercise, stretching and peace-fulness. Beautiful bamboo floors. Not too touchy-feely for those who are just visiting. Hands-on adjustments are on a need basis, while help modifying is de rigueur.

ALBANY

Willamette Valley Power Yoga208 SW 5th Ave.541.971.1046willamettevalleypoweryoga.com

Why we like Willamette Power Yoga: They focus on the big picture by supporting causes. They also have a sense of humor, community classes, Baptiste-style vinyasa flow with warm (but not hot) rooms. They host yoga nights for dudes and for couples, and yoga parties with live DJs. “Our focus here is about community and that includes anyone traveling through town," said co-owner Melinda Cotner. "We are all about walk ins and drop ins and encourage spon-taneity ... When we (the owners) are on the road, we are always looking for great places to drop in for yoga and from the beginning, wanted our studio to be a place of rest and rejuvenation for the traveler in all of us.”

SALEM

Courthouse Fitness300 Glen Creek Rd. NW503.588.2582courthousefit.com

Why we like Courthousefit:Clean, with a pool, courts and an updated cardio room with some free weights that are old school. Rocking “club” style dance class. Talented Zumba instructors with moves like Jagger. “Our main focus is warm welcome,” said marketing manager Michael Miller, “Our goal is to have something for everyone: (from a) quick swim to shooting hoops, a steam or sweaty group training class like Club Dance. Courthouse has it and we love drop-ins!"

PORTLAND

BurnCycle 910 NW 10th Ave.(Pearl District)503.946.8618burncyclepdx.com

Why we like Burncycle:Slick, powerful, proud, shiny and free from self-worship. Limited kitsch and focus on the flywheel. If you didn’t pack your cycling shoes, you can rent some. Awesome energy. You can burn a few calories just talking to studio visionary, Jessi Duley. “BurnCycle em-braces the energy visitors and travelers bring to classes, and we love expending our Burn Army!" said Duley. BurnCycle classes can fill up quickly. Check the schedule a few days in advance to ensure there will be room in the class. New riders need to make an online profile in order to sign up for classes. Don't forget socks and a water bottle.

Yoga Union2305 SE 50th Ave. #100503.235.9642yogaunioncwc.com

Why we like Yoga Union:No snarky snobbery if you are not a yoga bikini babe. Support for all levels. Less woo-woo and a lot of focus on anatomy. Extensive classes for every weird work schedule. Bas-kets of washcloths if you forget a towel. You often see teachers in classes and workshops.

BAR METHOD: 3 LOCATIONS ALONG THE CASCADES ROUTE

Vancouver837 Beatty St. vancouver.barmethod.com

Seattle124 Westlake Ave. N seattle.barmethod.com

Portland904 Northwest Hoyt St. portland.barmethod.com

Why we like the Bar Method:Burning thighs come alive! Posture perfect. Endurance without crazy cardio. Caring and not condescending. Excellent quality instructors. Spotless, modern and well maintained. The Bar Method is a series of isometric workouts that target specific muscle groups. Motto: strengthen, tone and lengthen. "The Bar Method conditions you from head to toe, using your own body resistance and small weights,” said Denise Buchard, a Portland studio owner and in-structor. “The Bar Method appeals to a wide variety of ages and abilities because it is low impact yet intense.” There is no choreogra-phy. Two left feet work just fine.

SCHEDULE ITSchedule your fitness the same way you schedule the best restaurants, zoos, brew-eries and wineries. A great way to under-stand and immerse in a city is to get sweaty with locals. Forget Yelping. The best app to make sure you hightail it to class is Yoga-panda in Seattle. The creator and inventor, Rahmouni Othmane, is a product-manag-ing madman in touch with technology who spends eighteen hours a day on his com-puter. To save his body and serve his soul, he created Yogapanda. It allows the user to sign up for classes and pre-pay directly from the phone.

No membership is needed, drop-ins are encouraged, diversity is assured, and it’s as green as bamboo using only a barcode with no paper trail. “I wanted to do more yoga because it helped my body, but due to my international business demands, I needed classes all over Seattle at strange hours, with a different style or focus,” Othmane said. “At Yogapanda, we help you find and book yoga classes at local yoga studios on a drop-in basis directly from your phone. The bonus is the pricing is set based on how busy each class is.”

The app will also notify you of upcoming events such as: The Wake Morning Yoga and Dance party, which kicks off at 6 a.m. and is followed by raging local DJs. Talk about a new way to get psyched for a meeting.

SIP ITBe it a pint of IPA at Breakside Brewery or a glass at Enso Winery in Portland, embrace your oenophile, but every time you see the bottom of your glass, drink eight ounces of water. To balance metabolic function with consumption, you need to take time in be-tween each empty glass to hydrate. Water is the key to our electrolyte balance, man-aging sodium and calcium to keep mus-cles contracting and reacting. Forget hand sanitizer. Water is the first defense against infection.

EAT ITGoing out on an empty belly leads to se-vere indigestion when stomach acids and enzymes clash, causing reflux. Nibble on a salad in the train’s dining car. If the body’s hunger alarm is ringing when you arrive in Olympia, you might enjoy the delights at La Petite Masion, but order a cup instead of a bowl when you decide to gorge on the lobster porridge.

ATTACK ITIt is important to know what foods are your weakness, and when and how to avoid them. Make a conscious effort to aggressively nav-igate away from the downfalls of popcorn balls or chicken wings. Bugs Bunny had it right—munch on raw vegetables from the farmers’ market in Kelso. By the time you are ready for Tukwila and Westfield South-center Mall, you can eat something substan-tial from Dukes Chowder House without guilt or overdoing it. Duke’s specializes in bringing Alaska to your plate and palette with Smart Catch—a 100 percent support system for environmentally sustainable fish-ing practices. Feel the karma.

CUT ITRevere the toothpick and the mini fork. Little tastings or samples keep you on track because eating slowly, savoring one bite at a time, is better than consuming calories that will stick on your waist. It takes twenty minutes for your stomach to tell your brain it is full. Eating small bites at Pike Place Market in Seattle is a marvelous way to in-dulge in organic moments or farm-to-table chefs. Nine acres of snacking will fill your belly slowly without sabotage.

SLURP ITSipping on soup as an appetizer or be-tween meals is a great way to cut back on consumption. Soups encourage easy pas-sage from the small to large intestine and enhance mineral absorption. You can’t get a bigger bowl of nutrients than the famous tomato bisque at Chanterelle’s in Edmonds.

MOVE ITSitting is the new shadow of fatality. On the road, the body is forced to sit. The train al-lows us the best possible way to travel for a healthy body and back. We can twist, stretch, throw our arms up in the air, practice numer-ous chair yoga poses, and even stand safely. (It is recommended to stand at least twenty minutes out of each hour to offset varicose veins and blood clots.) Chairs recline to keep the discs in our back from compressing. Still take time on your next stop to sweat it out.

START FRESHThe mind has a self-imposed cycle. If it gets high off success, like a Pavlovian dog it repeats that behavior. It can also quick-ly become addicted to failure. The people who put on an average three to five pounds when traveling are the ones who feel guilty about their indulgent behavior and decide it can’t be fixed. Every day is an opportu-nity to be better balanced. Even the most disciplined person slips, but what they suc-ceed at doing is getting back on track.

EUGENESTATION

6mi

.4mi

ALBANY STATION

2.5miSALEM

STATION

UNIONSTATION

.5mi

UNIONSTATION

4.6mi

PACIFIC CENTRALSTATION

1.2mi

KING STREETSTATION

1.8mi

UNIONSTATION

.3mi

GO BY TRAINPHOTOS BY ERIC ROSE

In the shadows and reflections of boarding platforms, the ornate architecture of century-old stations, the sense of freedom on the faces of vacationers, and even in the

minutiae of an everyday commute, train travel invokes a certain romance. It can be a chance to slow down, dream and reconnect, if you choose to allow it. For more photos

of this adventure, go to ontrakmag.com/gallery

ontrakmag.com ontrakmag.com52 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 53

BRINGING MUSIC BACK

CADA GERRANS IS ONLY 13, but she’s faced challenges that would break most adults. She lost seven family mem-bers in three years. Her single mom struggled to cover household bills with a grocery store job, so Cada qualified for free lunch at Portland Public Schools during elementary school.

Through these rough patches, Cada’s love of music has helped her persevere. For more than half of her life, she’s stud-ied voice, piano and bass guitar at non-profit Ethos Music Center in Portland, performing in local venues every chance she gets. She recently covered “Dog Days Are Over” by Florence + The Machine at a Portland performance, nailing the tricky runs and pulling the crowd to its feet. As it has with thousands of other kids, Ethos has given Cada a chance to heal, and to shine.

“When I’m singing, I can forget ev-erything else,” she said. “The teachers, my bandmates, the audience—they’re so loving and supportive. They’re the com-plete opposite of those mean teachers you see on ‘Glee.’”

Cada got hooked on music when she was seven and took a free Ethos music class at Vernon Elementary in North Portland. Once too shy to raise her hand in class, she’s now a magnetic perform-

er who counts Adele, Amy Winehouse, Led Zeppelin, The Beatles and Janis Jo-plin among her influences. When she’s not singing solo, she fronts a band called Death By Thumb, which recently opened for The Dandy Warhols at The Crystal Ballroom in Portland.

Cada’s mother, Margaret Gerrans, calls Ethos “a lifeline” for her family.

“It’s hard for me to talk about Ethos without sounding sappy,” she said. “The state of music funding is pitiful, but ev-ery child in Oregon should have music in their lives like Cada does.”

Ethos is working toward that goal. The nonprofit has come a long way since its founding in 1998, when it first started offering a handful of music classes in a University of Portland basement.

Founder Charles Lewis got the idea for Ethos while researching his thesis at Harvard’s graduate school of Public Policy. He had grown up in poverty and attended the University of Portland as an undergraduate, graduating magna cum laude. He credits his academic success to early music exposure. But he grew up before the flurry of arts cutbacks in the 1990s. Crunching numbers for his thesis, Lewis was shocked to realize that music was fast becoming something available only to the affluent.

Lewis started Ethos on his credit card while sleeping on a friend’s couch. He and a dedicated group of volunteers chose the organization’s name in hom-age to the ancient Greek “Doctrine of Ethos,” which holds that music can change thoughts, moods and actions.

Things started modestly, with only a few classes. But Ethos built up a network of donors, reached out to underserved schools, recruited passionate young music teachers and converted an aban-doned North Portland building into its headquarters.

Today, Ethos reaches 7,000 children per year and has a statewide reach. It offers free and reduced-rate private les-sons, group classes and camps to kids ages two and up, many of whom would otherwise have no art—performing or visual—in their lives. With a budget of $1.3 million a year and seventy-one staff members, Ethos is now Oregon’s largest music school.

“We believe music is a fundamental right, something that benefits not just the whole child but the whole commu-nity,” said executive director Jedidiah Chavez, who took the helm from Lewis in 2011. Lewis is still an Ethos adviser.

Ethos also continues to expand its mission into rural communities. Its Mu-

Ethos fills the musical void in underserved communities.

BY AMY DOANPHOTOS BY NINA LEE JOHNSON

Ethos student Cada Gerrans (far left) and her Death by Thumb bandmates.

ontrakmag.com54 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 55

sic Across Oregon program launched in 2001, with a few teachers traveling to small towns in a bus, trying to reach communities of people who hadn’t had music instruction in decades. When the bus broke down, Ethos started looking for more reliable methods of outreach. Today Music Across Oregon places music teachers in underserved rural communities across the state, including Condon, Falls City, Fossil, Kings Valley, Madras, Metolius and the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs.

Teachers are recruited through a long-term partnership with AmeriCorps—the first federal music-based AmeriCorps program in the U.S. They are typically young, fresh out of music or teaching programs, and sign on for a one-year commitment in towns with populations less than 6,000. In addition to teaching music in schools full time, these music instructors offer after-school lessons and organize performances by students and visiting musical groups.

Most rural communities pay around $7,000 per year per music teacher, much less than what it would cost to hire a reg-ular music instructor. For housing and a modest $18,000 in wages and stipends, teachers spend a year not just leading lessons then clocking out, but integrat-ing into the community.

One of the most dramatic success sto-ries comes out of Fossil. A student who had been in and out of juvenile detention picked up guitar in a class from Music Across Oregon. His teacher encouraged him to stick with it and, years later, urged him to apply to the prestigious Berklee College of Music in Boston. He got in.

In 2011, the Ethos program in Warm Springs marked the first time an Ameri-Corps volunteer was placed on an Indian reservation in Oregon.

“The Ethos teachers are wonderful,” said Ellen Ames, an administrator with the K through 8 Academy at the Warm Springs Indian Reservation. “They real-ly inject themselves into the communi-ty in a positive way—hanging out at the community center and skate park, con-necting with the kids and their families. They do a good job incorporating Native American culture into the lessons while

exposing the kids to other music.”Last year, Warm Springs students

studied American Indian drumming and performed at the annual Warm Springs Craft Fair. They also got opportunities to study other instruments, including uku-lele and violin. This is characteristic of the Ethos approach.

“Our teachers are encouraged to tailor instruction around the culture and inter-ests of the communities, as well as individ-ual kids,” said Chavez. “At Warm Springs, we might incorporate drumming. With a rural program in Fossil, we might start with bluegrass and country. In other class-es, we’ll start with Beyonce or Jay-Z.”

Ethos now offers classes in everything from hip hop to classical piano and op-era. Its rock band program helps kids hone not just their musicianship and performance skills, but also teaches teamwork. Members plan everything themselves—divvying up parts, choos-ing costumes and deciding on set lists. None of this is easy, if the number of professional bands that break up over creative differences is any indicator.

“But the kids rise to the challenge,” said Chavez. “They could teach a thing or two to the grownups.”

Ethos’ Music Corps artist-in-residence program, founded in 2011, provides a safe, structured place for kids in low-in-come urban locations to go after school. About 75 percent of the kids who take after-school Music Corps lessons live below the poverty level.

“Some of these kids are not ‘at risk,’” said Chavez. “They’re no-risk—they lit-erally have nothing to lose.”

All of the Ethos programs allow stu-dents to rent instruments at no or mini-mal cost. This tangible investment in the kids is a way to connect with the home environment and a statement of trust.

Chavez is concerned that school arts programs have been slashed for so long that people now view music classes as “optional extras.” Study after study from schools such as Johns Hopkins Univer-sity, the University of Toronto, and the Yale School of Medicine, have shown that music instruction improves early brain development and academic performance.

Cada Gerrans endorses this research with an example from her middle-school math class. “Fractions came totally easy to me,” she said, “because I’ve studied time signatures.”

Chavez said it’s harder to quantify an-other important benefit—joy. “We want to see that spark, that fire in the kids’ eyes,” he said. “When people come to our galas, they witness it. And then they want to help however they can.”

Funding for the program comes large-ly through donations and grants. Oregon Cultural Trust is one major donor. The local blues community has been espe-cially supportive. Longtime donor Paul Delay, who died in 2007, established an Ethos scholarship in his name, one of which funds Cada Gerrans. The Decem-berists’ Colin Meloy, Bonnie Raitt and other artists also support the program.

But that doesn’t mean dollars flow in without tremendous effort. The organi-zation always needs donations—money, instruments, cases and volunteer time. Recently, an Oregon casino donated a blue carpet to replace the threadbare rugs in Ethos’ Portland performance space.

Ethos wants to reach even more chil-dren throughout the state, and that won’t come cheap.

In front of Ethos headquarters in North Portland is a fourteen-foot-tall copper treble clef designed jointly by founder Lewis and Art of Rain. It’s part sculpture, part downspout. When it rains, it plays “Somewhere Over the Rainbow.”

“The song captures our mission very well,” said Chavez. “We are a group of idealists. We want to bring the joy and magic of music to every child.”

The ancient Greek “Doctrine of Ethos”

holds that music canchange thoughts,

moods and actions.

More than 7,000 kids across Oregon benefit from Ethos programs every year.

ontrakmag.com ontrakmag.com56 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 57

Eat + Stay + Play Eat + Stay + Play Guide

McMinnville38.7 MILES FROM STATION866.472.8614rstuartandco.com

PORTLAND

Caffe Mingo$$, Italian1.1 MILES FROM STATION503.226.4646caffemingonw.com

Chennai Masala$$, IndianHillsboro12 MILES FROM STATION503.531.9500chennaimasala.net

Decarli$$, ItalianBeaverton8.6 MILES FROM STATION503.641.3223decarlirestaurant.com

Elephant’s Delicatessen$$, DeliMULTIPLE LOCATIONSelephantsdeli.com

The Garden Bar$$, VegetarianMULTIPLE LOCATIONSgardenbarpdx.com

Gloria’s Secret Café$$, Latin AmericanBeaverton8.1 MILES FROM STATION503.268.2124

Imperial Restaurant$$, American0.6 MILE FROM STATION503.228.7222imperialpdx.com

Laurelhurst Market$$$, Steakhouse2.6 MILES FROM STATION503.206.3097

laurelhurstmarket.com

Le Bouchon$$$, French0.5 MILE FROM STATION503.248.2193bouchon-portland.com

Oven & Shaker$$, Pizza, Italian0.5 MILE FROM STATION503.241.1600ovenandshaker.com

The Parish$$, Seafood, Southern0.5 MILE FROM STATION503.227.2421theparishpdx.com

Ruth’s Chris Steak House$$$, Steakhouse0.8 MILE FROM STATION503.221.4518ruthschris.com

Serratto Restaurant & Bar$$, Italian, Mediterranean, Modern European1 MILE FROM STATION503.221.1195serratto.com

Syun Izakaya$$, JapaneseHillsboro16.8 MILES FROM STATION503.640.3131syun-izakaya.com

Trader Vic’s$$, Hawaiian0.5 MILE FROM STATION503.467.2277tradervicspdx.com

Wilf’s$$$, American226 FEET FROM STATION503.223.0070wilfsrestaurant.com

Wild Pear$$, Cafe1.5 MILES FROM STATION503.378.7515wildpearcatering.com

Willamette Valley Vineyards$$, WineryTurner9.2 MILES FROM STATION503.588.9463wvv.com

OREGON CITY

Adelsheim Vineyard$$$, WineryNewberg29 MILES FROM STATION503.538.3652adelsheim.com

ArborBrook Vineyards$$, WineryNewberg29.4 MILES FROM STATION503.538.0959arborbrookwines.com

Cana’s Feast Winery$$, WineryCarlton37.3 MILES FROM STATION503.852.0002canasfeastwinery.com

Rivershore Bar & Grill$$, American, seafood0.9 MILES FROM STATION503.655.5155rivershorerestaurant.com

R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar$$, Wine

Sushi Pure$$, Sushi0.3 MILE FROM STATION541.654.0608sushipureeugene.com

Tacovore$$, Mexican0.8 MILE FROM STATION541.735.3518tacovorepnw.com

Ta Ra Rin Thai Cuisine$$, Thai0.7 MILE FROM STATION541.343.1230tararinthai.com

ALBANY

Calapooia Brewing$$, Brewpub1.4 MILES FROM STATION541.928.1931calapooiabrewing.com

Sybaris Bistro$$$, New American 0.8 MILE FROM STATION541.248.3666sybarisbistro.com

SALEM

Christos Pizzeria & Lounge$$, Pizza1.6 MILES FROM STATION503.371.2892christospizzasalem.com

Gamberetti’s$$, Italian0.7 MILE FROM STATION503.399.7446gamberettis.com

Oregon Guide

EUGENE

Ax Billy Grill & Sports Bar $$$, Sports Bar0.4 MILE FROM STATION541.484.4011downtownac.net

Belly Taquería$$, Mexican69 FEET FROM STATION541.687.8226eatbelly.com

The Bier Stein$$, American, Pub0.9 MILE FROM STATION541.485.2437thebierstein.com

La Perla Pizzeria$$ Pizza0.8 MILE FROM STATION541.686.1313laperlapizzeria.com

Marché$$, French0.3 MILE FROM STATION541.342.3612marcherestaurant.com

McMenamins High Street Brewery & Café$$, Brewpub0.8 MILE FROM STATION541.345.4905mcmenamins.com

Oregon Electric Station$$$, Steakhouse, Italian, Seafood374 FEET FROM STATION541.485.4444oesrestaurant.com

Oregon Electric Station, Eugene

Wilf’s, Portland

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

Grand Hotel at BridgeportTigard11.7 MILES FROM STATION503.968.5757grandhotelbridgeport.com

Lakeshore InnLake Oswego6.2 MILES FROM STATION503.636.9679thelakeshoreinn.com

PORTLAND

Ace Hotel0.7 MILES FROM STATION503.228.2277acehotel.com

The Benson0.5 MILES FROM STATION503.228.2000coasthotels.com

Caravan: The Tiny House Hotel2.3 MILES FROM STATION503.489.7645tinyhousehotel.com

Embassy Suites Portland- Washington SquareTigard11.3 MILES FROM STATION

Holiday Inn Express & Suites1.9 MILES FROM STATION541.342.1243ihg.com

Inn at the 5th0.3 MILES FROM STATION541.743.0869innat5th.com

Oval Door Bed & Breakfast Inn0.7 MILES FROM STATION541.683.3160ovaldoor.com

The Secret Garden1.9 MILES FROM STATION541.484.6755secretgardenbbinn.com

Valley River Inn2 MILES FROM STATION541.743.1000valleyriverinn.com

ALBANY

Best Western Plus Prairie Inn2.9 MILES FROM STATION541.928.5050book.bestwestern.com

Comfort Suites2.9 MILES FROM STATION541.928.2053comfortsuites.com

Phoenix Inn Suites2.1 MILES FROM STATION541.926.5696phoenixinn.com

SALEM

The Grand Hotel0.8 MILES FROM STATION503.540.7800grandhotelsalem.com

Hampton Inn & Suites503.362.1300hamptoninn3.hilton.com

Red Lion2.6 MILES FROM STATION503.370.7888redlion.com

OREGON CITY

Best Western Plus Rivershore Hotel0.9 MILES FROM STATION503.655.1927book.bestwestern.com

EUGENE

Best Western New Oregon Motel1.6 MILES FROM STATION 541.683.3669 book.bestwestern.com

C’est La Vie Inn1.5 MILES FROM STATION541.302.6963cestlavieinn.com

Campbell House Inn0.4 MILES FROM STATION541.343.2258campbellhouse.com Courtyard Eugene Spring-field4.8 MILES FROM STATION541.726.2121 marriott.com

Excelsior Inn1.1 MILES FROM STATION541.342.1991excelsiorinn.com

Hilton0.2 MILES FROM STATION541.342.2000hilton.com

503.644.4400portlandembassysuites.com

Friendly Bike Guest House2.1 MILES FROM STATION503.799.2615friendlybikeguesthouse.com

Hotel Eastlund1.5 MILES FROM STATION503.235.2100 hoteleastlund.com

Hotel Modera1.1 MILES FROM STATION877.484.1084hotelmodera.com

Inn @ Northrup Station0.9 MILE FROM STATION503.224.0543northrupstation.com

Jupiter Hotel1.4 MILES FROM STATION503.230.9200jupiterhotel.com

McMenamins EdgefieldTroutdale13.6 MILES FROM STATION503.669.8610mcmenamins.com

McMenamins Grand LodgeForest Grove25.4 MILES FROM STATION503.992.9533mcmenamins.com

The Nines0.7 MILE FROM STATION877.229.9995thenines.com

Resort at the MountainMt. Hood Village45.2 MILES FROM STATION503.622.3101theresort.com

River’s Edge Hotel & Spa4.3 MILES FROM STATION503.802.5800riversedgehotel.com

Shift Vacation Rentals3.3 MILES FROM STATION503.208.2581shiftvacationrentals.com

Tierra Soul Urban Farm & Guesthouse2.3 MILES FROM STATION503.489.7645tierrasoulpdx.com

The Westin0.7 MILE FROM STATION503.294.9000westinportland.com

Shift Vacation Rentals, Portland

ontrakmag.com58 | WINTER 2016

garnishapparel.com

Mabel & Zora0.4 MILE FROM STATION 503.241.5696mabelandzora.com

McMenamins Crystal Ballroom0.8 MILE FROM STATION503.225.0047mcmenamins.com

Mercantile0.7 MILE FROM STATION503.223.6649mercantileportland.com

Mt. Hood Meadows Ski ResortMt. Hood75 MILES FROM STATION503.337.2222skihood.com

Oregon Museum of Sci-ence and Industry1.9 MILES FROM STATION800.955.6674omsi.edu

Oregon Zoo3.4 MILES FROM STATION503.226.1561oregonzoo.org

Physical Element0.5 MILE FROM STATION503.224.5425physicalelement.com

bridgeport-village.com

Clackamas Repertory Theater3.8 MILES FROM STATION503.594.6047clackamasrep.org

End of the Oregon Trail1.2 MILES FROM STATION503.657.9336historicoregoncity.org

PORTLAND

Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall0.9 MILE FROM STATION503.248.4335portland5.com

Bella Casa0.5 MILE FROM STATION503.222.5337bellacasa.net

Bonnet0.5 MILE FROM STATION503.954.2271shop.bonnetboutique.com

Boys Fort0.8 MILE FROM STATION503.567.1015boysfort.com

Ellington Handbags1.4 MILES FROM STATION503.223.7457ellingtonhandbags.com

Garnish Apparel0.5 MILE FROM STATION503.954.2292

EUGENE

Bijou Metro0.4 MILE FROM STATION541.686.2458bijou-cinemas.com

Cascade Raptor Center5.7 MILES FROM STATION541.485.1320eraptors.org

Eugene Cascades & Coast Travel Lane County0.3 MILE FROM STATION541.484.5307eugenecascadescoast.org

Fifth Street Public Market0.3 MILE FROM STATION541.484.03805stmarket.com

Heritage Dry Goods0.3 MILE FROM STATION541.393.6710heritagedrygoods.com

Hult Center0.2 MILE FROM STATION541.682.5087hultcenter.org

Museum of Natural & Cultural History1.7 MILES FROM STATION541.346.3024 natural-history.uoregon.edu

Oakway Center1.3 MILES FROM STATION541.485.4711oakwaycenter.com

Pittock Mansion2.8 MILES FROM STATION503.823.3623pittockmansion.org

Portland Art Museum1 MILE FROM STATION503.553.5400portlandartmuseum.org

Rachelle M. Rustic House of Fashion0.7 MILE FROM STATION971.319.6934rachellem.com

Rice Museum of Rocks & MineralsHillsboro17.1 MILES FROM STATION503.647.2418ricenorthwestmuseum.org

Twist1.4 MILES FROM STATION503.224.0334twistonline.com

US Outdoor Store0.7 MILE FROM STATION503.223.5937usoutdoor.com

Washington SquareTigard8.6 MILES FROM STATION503.639.8860shopwashingtonsquare.com

ALBANY

Albany Antique Mall0.5 MILE FROM STATION541.704.0109albanyantiquemall.com

Gallery Calapooia0.6 MILE FROM STATION503.971.5701gallerycalapooia.com

Oregon Coast AquariumNewport65 MILES FROM STATION541.867.3474aquarium.org

SALEM

Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum + Water-parkMcMinnville27 MILES FROM STATION503.434.4180evergreenmuseum.org

Historic Elsinore Theatre0.8 MILE FROM STATION503.375.3574elsinoretheatre.com

Salem Center1.1 MILES FROM STATION503.399.9676salemcenter.com

OREGON CITY

Bridgeport VillageTigard11.6 MILES FROM STATION503.968.1704

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

Heritage Dry Goods, Eugene

McMenamins Crystal Ballroom, Portland

Guide Eat + Stay + Play

Seaside Outlets-On THE nOrTH OrEgOn COAST-

JANUARY-MARCH SUNdAY-THURSdAY:

10 A.M.-6 P.M. FRidAY-SATURdAY:

10 A.M.-8 P.M.

book warehouse • bruce’s candy kitchen • carter’s • christoPher & banks • claire’s • daisy may’s sandwich shoP • dress barn & dress barn women • eddie bauer • famous footwear outlet • gnc • kitchen collection • l’eggs hanes bali Playtex exPress • nike factory store • osh kosh b’gosh • Pendleton • rack room shoes • rue 21 • seaside shiPPing

center • the wine & beer haus • tokyo teriyaki • TOYS “R” US • Van heusen • ZumieZ

www.seasideoutlets.comHwy 101 & 12th Ave., Seaside, Oregon • 503.717.1603

aPril-decemberMONdAY-SATURdAY: 10 A.M.-8 P.M. SUNdAY: 10 A.M.-6 P.M.

Free coupon book special events

515 SW Clay St || Portland, OR 97201

877-484-1084 || www.hotelmodera.com

DISCOVER PORTLAND Hotel Modera is YOUR full

service boutique hotel in the heart of downtown Portland. Located on the Portland Mall between SW 5th and 6th Avenues, Hotel Modera is

just steps away from the best of Portland’s shopping, restaurants,

and cultural venues.

The courtyard features an innovative Living Wall and

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Enjoy complimentary in-room WiFi and daily passes to

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Use the code below to receive 15% off our Best Available Rate!

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ontrakmag.com ontrakmag.com60 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 61

Eat + Stay + Play Eat + Stay + Play Guide

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

Loula Kitchen & Bar$$, French, Breakfast1.1 MILES FROM STATION206.402.4588thechefinthehat.com

Revel$$, Asian Fusion, Korean5.9 MILES FROM STATION206.547.2040revelseattle.com

Salumi Artisan Cured Meats$$ Meat Shops0.2 MILE FROM STATION206.621.8772salumicuredmeats.com

Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar$$$, American, SeafoodBellevue10.7 MILES FROM STATION425.456.0010seastarrestaurant.com

TanakaSan$$, Asian Fusion1.8 MILES FROM STATION206.812.8412tanakasanseattle.com

Westward$$, Mediterranean, Breakfast, American5.8 MILES FROM STATION206.552.8215

westwardseattle.com

EDMONDS

The Herbfarm$$$$, Modern EuropeanWoodinville19.7 MILES FROM STATION425.485.5300theherbfarm.com

The Maltby Café$$, American, Breakfast, CoffeeSnohomish14.5 MILES FROM STATION425.483.3123maltbycafe.com

EVERETT

Anthony’s Restaurant$$, Seafood1726 W. Marine View Drive2.4 MILES FROM STATION425.252.3333anthonys.com

STANWOOD

Stanwood Grill$$, American289 FEET FROM STATION360.629.5253stanwoodgrill.com

MOUNT VERNON

Olde Towne Grainery Tea Room & Galleria$$, British0.2 MILE FROM STATION360.419.9090facebook.com/oldetowne grainery

Skagit River Brewery$$, Brewpub0.2 MILE FROM STATION360.336.2884

BELLINGHAM

Ambo Ethiopian Cuisine$$, Ethiopian3.4 MILES FROM STATIONamboethiopiancuisine. wordpress.com

Leaf & Ladle$$, Soup, Sandwiches3.1 MILES FROM STATION360.319.9718facebook.com/leafandladle

1.4 MILES FROM STATION206.575.6815miyabisushi.com

SEATTLE

Assaggio Ristorante$$$, Italian1.3 MILES FROM STATION206.441.1399assaggioseattle.com

Copperworks Distilling$$, Distilleries0.8 MILE FROM STATION206.504.7604copperworksdistilling.com

Frolik Kitchen & Cocktails$$, American, Breakfast1.1 MILES FROM STATION206.971.8015frolik.motifseattle.com

John Howie Steak$$$$, American, SteakhouseBellevue10 MILES FROM STATION425.440.0880johnhowiesteak.com

Little Water Cantina$$, Mexican4 MILES FROM STATION206.397.4940delaurenti.com

OLYMPIA/LACEY

Fish Tale Brew Pub$$, Brewpub7.8 MILES FROM STATION360.943.6480fishbrewing.com

The Mark$$, Italian8.1 MILES FROM STATION360.754.4414themarkolympia.com

TACOMA

Asado$$$, Argentine4.8 MILES FROM STATION253.272.7770asadotacoma.com

Odd Otter Brewery$, Brewery2.7 MILES FROM STATION253.209.7064oddotterbrewing.com

Pacific Grill$$, American, Seafood1.4 MILES FROM STATION253.627.3535pacificgrilltacoma.com

TUKWILA

Miyabi Sushi$$, Japanese

Washington Guide

VANCOUVER

Farrar’s Bistro$$, American6.7 MILES FROM STATION360.571.7005farrarsbistro.com

McMenamins East Vancouver$$, Brewpub9.8 MILES FROM STATION360.254.3950mcmenamins.com

KELSO/LONGVIEW

Ashtown Brewing Company$$, Brewery2 MILES FROM STATION360.353.5286ashtownbrewing.com

The Office 842$$, Coffee, Cocktails, Tapas1.1 MILES FROM STATION360.442.4647theoffice842.com

CENTRALIA

McMenamins Olympic Club Pub$$, Brewpub0.1 MILE FROM STATION360.736.5164mcmenamins.com

Pacific Grill, Tacoma Coast Bellevue12.1 MILES FROM STATION206.248.8200coasthotels.com

Coast Gateway12.1 MILES FROM STATION206.248.8200coasthotels.com

Greenlake Guesthouse7.1 MILES FROM STATION206.729.8700greenlakeguesthouse.com

Hotel 10000.7 MILE FROM STATION206.957.1000hotel1000seattle.com

Hotel Andra1.4 MILES FROM STATION206.448.8600hotelandra.com

Hyatt Regency Bellevue9.9 MILES FROM STATION425.462.1234bellevue.hyatt.com

The Inn at El Gaucho1.6 MILES FROM STATION206.728.1133elgaucho.com

Inn at the Market1.2 MILES FROM STATION206.448.0631innatthemarket.com

The Maxwell Hotel2.5 MILES FROM STATION206.286.0629themaxwellhotel.com

The Moore Hotel1.3 MILES FROM STATION

Little Creek Casino Resort20.6 MILES FROM STATION360.427.7711little-creek.com

Swantown Inn & Spa7.3 MILES FROM STATION360.753.9123swantowninn.com

TACOMA

Hotel Murano1.5 MILES FROM STATION253.238.8000hotelmuranotacoma.com

Silver Cloud Inn - Tacoma Waterfront3.9 MILES FROM STATION253.272.1300silvercloud.com

TUKWILA

Cedarbrook Lodge4.3 MILES FROM STATION206.901.9268cedarbrooklodge.com

Springhill Suites1.8 MILES FROM STATION425.226.4100marriott.com

SEATTLE

Alexis Hotel0.8 MILE FROM STATION206.624.4844alexishotel.com

Belltown Inn1.5 MILES FROM STATION206.529.3700belltown-inn.com

VANCOUVER

Heathman Lodge6.6 MILES FROM STATION360.254.3100heathmanlodge.com

Red Lion at the Quay1.1 MILES FROM STATION360.694.8341redlion.com

KELSO/LONGVIEW

Monticello Hotel2.1 MILES FROM STATION360.425.9900themonticello.net

CENTRALIA

Centralia Square Hotel0.3 MILE FROM STATION360.807.1212centraliasquare.com

McMenamins - Olympic Club Hotel & Theater0.1 MILE FROM STATION360.736.5164mcmenamins.com

OLYMPIA/LACEY

The Governor Hotel7.9 MILES FROM STATION360.943.9349coasthotels.com

Red Lion Hotel8 MILES FROM STATION360.943.4000redlion.com

206.448.4851moorehotel.com

The Paramount Hotel1.3 MILES FROM STATION206.292.9500paramounthotelseattle.com

Seattle Sheraton1.2 MILES FROM STATION206.621.9000sheratonseattle.com

Sorrento Hotel1.1 MILES FROM STATION206.622.6400hotelsorrento.com

EDMONDS

Best Western Plus Edmonds Harbor Inn0.2 MILE FROM STATION425.771.5021book.bestwestern.com

EVERETT

Holiday Inn Downtown Everett0.4 MILE FROM STATION425.339.2000 ihg.com

Inn at Port Gardner2.4 MILES FROM STATION425.252.6779innatportgardner.com

STANWOOD

Cedar Bluff Cottage5.2 MILES FROM STATION360.445.3333

cedarbluffcottage.com

Hotel Stanwood1.4 MILES FROM STATION360.629.2888stanwoodhotelsaloon.com

MOUNT VERNON

Best Western Plus Skagit Valley Inn1.9 MILES FROM STATION360.428.5678book.bestwestern.com

Tulip Inn1.8 MILES FROM STATION360.428.5969tulipinn.net

BELLINGHAM

Chrysalis Inn & Spa0.8 MILE FROM STATION360.756.1005thechrysalisinn.com

Fairhaven Village Inn0.3 MILE FROM STATION360.733.1311fairhavenvillageinn.com

Hotel Bellwether4 MILES FROM STATION360.392.3100 hotelbellwether.com

McMenamins - Olympic Club Hotel, Centralia

Heathman Lodge, Vancouver

ontrakmag.com62 | WINTER 2016

stgpresents.org

Northwest Outdoor Center3.7 MILES FROM STATION206.281.9694nwoc.com

Olympic Sculpture Park2 MILES FROM STATION206.654.3100seattleartmuseum.org

Pike Place Market206.682.7453pikeplacemarket.org

Seattle Aquarium1 MILE FROM STATION206.386.4300seattleaquarium.org

Seattle Art Museum0.8 MILE FROM STATION206.654.3100seattleartmuseum.org

Seattle Space Needle2 MILES FROM STATION206.905.2100spaceneedle.com

Stevens PassSkykomish85 MILES FROM STATION206.812.4510stevenspass.com

Woodland Park Zoo5.3 MILES FROM STATION206.548.2500zoo.org

EDMONDS

Cascadia Art Museum0.3 MILE FROM STATION425.336.4809cascadiaartmuseum.org

Edmonds Center for the Arts0.6 MILE FROM STATION425.275.9595edmondscenterforthearts.com

Visit Edmonds0.5 MILE FROM STATION1.877.775.6935visitedmonds.com

EVERETT

Future of Flight AviationCenter & Boeing Tour8 MILES FROM STATION425.467.4777futureofflight.org

XFINITY Arena at Everett0.5 MILE FROM STATION425.322.2600xfinityarenaeverett.com

STANWOOD

Stanwood Cinemas1.5 MILES FROM STATION360.629.0514farawayentertainment.com

MOUNT VERNON

Downtown Mount Vernon360.336.3801mountvernondowntown.org

BELLINGHAM

Bellingham Railway Museum3.1 MILES FROM STATION360.393.7540bellinghamrailwaymuseum.org

The Green Frog2.8 MILES FROM STATION360.961.1438acoustictavern.com

Mount Baker Theatre3.2 MILES FROM STATION360.734.6080mountbakertheatre.com

Mt. Baker Ski Area52 MILES FROM STATION360.734.6771mtbaker.us

Washington State History Museum1.8 MILES FROM STATION253.272.3500washingtonhistory.org

TUKWILA

Museum of Flight5.7 MILES FROM STATION206.764.5720museumofflight.org

SEATTLE

Bellevue Arts MuseumBellevue10.7 MILES FROM STATION425.519.0770bellevuearts.org

Chihuly Garden & Glass2.5 MILES FROM STATION206.753.4940chihulygardenandglass.com

Experience Music Project Museum2 MILES FROM STATION206.770.2700empmuseum.org

Museum of History and Industry2.7 MILES FROM STATION206.324.1126mohai.org

Neptune Theatre4.2 MILES FROM STATION206.682.1414

OLYMPIA/LACEY

Capitol Tours7.5 MILES FROM STATION360.902.8880des.wa.gov

Little Creek Casino ResortShelton20.6 MILES FROM STATION360.427.7711little-creek.com

Rhythm & Rye7.8 MILES FROM STATION360.705.0760

TACOMA

LeMay—America’s Car Museum0.7 MILE FROM STATION253.779.8490americascarmuseum.org

Museum of Glass0.9 MILE FROM STATION253.284.4750museumofglass.org

Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium7.4 MILES FROM STATION253.591.5337pdza.org

Tacoma Art Museum1.2 MILES FROM STATION253.272.4258tacomaartmuseum.org

VANCOUVER

Clark County Historical Museum1 MILE FROM STATION360.993.5679cchmuseum.org

Kiggins Theatre0.8 MILE FROM STATION360.816.0352kigginstheatre.net

Visit Vancouver USA0.8 MILE FROM STATION360.816.6230visitvancouverusa.com

KELSO/LONGVIEW

Cowlitz County Tourism - Visit Mount St. Helens360.577.3137visitmtsthelens.com

Kelso Theater Pub0.1 MILE FROM STATION360.414.9451ktpub.com

CENTRALIA

Centralia Factory Outlets2.8 MILES FROM STATION360.736.3327centraliafactoryoutlet.com

Centralia Fox Theatre0.2 MILE FROM STATION360.623.1103centraliafoxtheatre.com

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium, Tacoma

Guide Eat + Stay + Play

ontrakmag.com ontrakmag.com64 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 65

Eat + Stay + Play Eat + Stay + Play Guide

Octopus’ Garden$$$, Japanese, Sushi4.5 KM FROM STATION604.734.8971octopusgardensada.com

Opus Bar$$, Cocktails, Small Plates, Breakfast2.2 KM FROM STATION604.642.6787opushotel.com

Salt Tasting Room$$, Wine, Tapas, Small Plates1.5 KM FROM STATION604.633.1912salttastingroom.com

Sal y Limon$, Mexican2.4 KM FROM STATION604.677.4247salylimon.ca

Savary Island Pie Company$$, Bakery, Coffee10.6 KM FROM STATION604.926.4021savaryislandpiecompany.com

Wildebeest$$$, Gastropub, Canadian1.5 KM FROM STATION604.687.6880wildebeest.ca

Yaletown Brewing Co.$$, Brewpub2.1 KM FROM STATION604.681.2739mjg.ca

Zeitoon Restaurant$$, Middle Eastern4.8 KM FROM STATION604.899.0700zeitoonrestaurant.ca

Jules$$, French1.7 KM FROM STATION604.669.0033julesbistro.ca

The Keefer Bar$$$, Cocktails, Asian Small Plates850 METERS FROM STATION604.688.1961thekeeferbar.com

Kintaro Ramen$, Asian3.8 KM FROM STATION604.682.7568

Kirin$$, Seafood, Dim SumVarious locationskirinrestaurants.com

L’Abattoir$$$, French, Canadian1.4 KM FROM STATION604.568.1701labattoir.ca

The Liberty Distillery$$, Distillery, Cocktails3 KM FROM STATION604.558.1998thelibertydistillery.com

Marutama Ramen$$, Asian3.6 KM FROM STATION604.688.8837marutamaramen.com

Cuchillo$$, Latin American1.2 KM FROM STATION604.559.7585cuchillo.ca

The Diamond$$, Mexican1.5 KM FROM STATION604.568.8272di6mond.com

Fable Kitchen$$, Canadian4.4 KM FROM STATION604.732.1322fablekitchen.ca

The Fat Badger$$, British3.4 KM FROM STATION604.336.5577fatbadger.ca

The Flying Pig Gastown$$, Canadian1.7 KM FROM STATION604.559.7968theflyingpigvan.com

Forty Ninth Parallel Café & Lucky’s Doughnuts$, Coffee, Donuts1.8 KM FROM STATION604.872.490149thparallelroasters.comluckysdoughnuts.com

Vancouver Guide

Ask for Luigi$$, Italian1.4 KM FROM STATIONaskforluigi.com

Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie$$$, Chinese850 METERS FROM STATION604.688.0876bao-bei.ca

Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar$$$, Seafood, Steakhouse2.6 KM FROM STATIONboulevardvancouver.ca

Burdock & Co.$$, French, Tapas 1.5 KM FROM STATIONburdockandco.com

Chambar$$$, Belgian, Breakfast1.4 KM FROM STATIONchambar.com

Cinara$$$, Modern European1.7 KM FROM STATIONcinara.ca

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill & Enoteca$$$$, Mediterranean, Italian2.3 KM FROM STATION604.688.7466cioppinosyaletown.com

Matchstick Coffee Roasters$, Cafe650 METERS FROM STATION604.336.0213matchstickcoffee.com

Novo Pizzeria & Wine Bar$$, Italian, Wine4 KM FROM STATION604.736.2220novopizzeria.com

The Oakwood Canadian Bistro$$, Gastropub, Canadian5.6 KM FROM STATION604.558.1965 theoakwood.ca

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

49th Parallel Cafe, Vancouver

The Fat Badger, Vancouver

The Kingston Hotel2.1 KM FROM STATION604.684.9024kingstonhotelvancouver.com

The Landis Hotel & Suites3 KM FROM STATION604.681.3555landissuitesvancouver.com

L’Hermitage Hotel2 KM FROM STATION778.327.4100lhermitagevancouver.com

The Listel Hotel3.1 KM FROM STATION604.684.7092thelistelhotel.com

Loden Hotel3.4 KM FROM STATION877.225.6336theloden.com

Moda Hotel2.2 KM FROM STATION604.683.4251modahotel.ca

OPUS Vancouver2.2 KM FROM STATION604.642.6787opushotel.com

Pan Pacific Vancouver2.8 KM FROM STATION604.662.8111panpacific.com

Auberge Vancouver Hotel2.6 KM FROM STATION604.678.8899aubergevancouver.com

Barclay House3.5 KM FROM STATION604.605.1351barclayhouse.com

Bee & Thistle Guest House3.3 KM FROM STATION604.669.0715beeandthistle.ca

The Burrard2.9 KM FROM STATION604.681.2331theburrard.com

Coast Coal Harbour Hotel2.7 KM FROM STATION604.697.0202coasthotels.com

Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites 4.2 KM FROM STATION604.688.7711coasthotels.com

Coast Vancouver Airport Hotel9.3 KM FROM STATION604.263.1555coasthotels.com

English Bay Inn5 KM FROM STATION604.683.8002englishbayinn.com

The Riviera on Robson Suites Hotel3.2 KM FROM STATION604.685.1301rivieravancouver.com

Rosewood Hotel Georgia2.1 KM FROM STATION604.682.5566rosewoodhotels.com

St. Clair Hotel - Hostel1.8 KM FROM STATION604.648.3713stclairvancouver.com

Summit Lodge & Spa WhistlerWhistler132 KM FROM STATION604.932.2778summitlodge.com

The Sylvia Hotel4.3 KM FROM STATION604.681.9321sylviahotel.com

Victorian Hotel1.7 KM FROM STATION604.681.6369victorianhotel.ca

Wedgewood Hotel & Spa2.4 KM FROM STATION604.689.7777wedgewoodhotel.com

Patricia Hotel1.2 KM FROM STATION604.255.4301patriciahotel.ca

Pinnacle Hotel Harbourfront3.1 KM FROM STATION604.689.9211pinnacleharbourfronthotel.com

Executive Hotel LeSoleil2.2 KM FROM STATION604.632.3000hotellesoleil.com

Executive Hotel Vintage Park2.9 KM FROM STATION1.800.570.EXECexecutivehotels.net

Fairmont Chateau Whistler124 KM FROM STATION604.938.8000fairmont.com

Georgian Court Hotel1.5 KM FROM STATION604.682.5555georgiancourthotelvancouver.com

Granville House B&B6.3 KM FROM STATION604.733.2963granvillebb.com

Granville Island Hotel4.4 KM FROM STATION604.683.7373granvilleislandhotel.com

Hotel at the Waldorf3.1 KM FROM STATION604.253.7141hotelatthewaldorf.ca

Hotel Blue Horizon2.9 KM FROM STATION604.688.1411bluehorizonhotel.com

Fairmont Chateau Whistler

Fairmont Chateau Whistler

ontrakmag.com66 | WINTER 2016

River Rock Casino ResortRichmond12.2 KM FROM STATION877.473.2818riverrock.com

Robson Street2.8 KM FROM STATION604.669.8132robsonstreet.ca

Rockwood Adventures7.4 KM FROM STATION604.913.1621rockwoodadventures.com

Rogers Arena2 KM FROM STATION604.899.7400rogersarena.com

Science World at TELUS World of Science400 METERS FROM STATION604.443.7440scienceworld.ca

Squamish Lil’Wat Cultural CentreWhistler1.866.441.7522124 KM FROM STATIONslcc.ca

Stanley Park5 KM FROM STATION604.681.6728vancouver.ca

Vancouver Art Gallery2.3 KM FROM STATION604.662.4700vanartgallery.bc.ca

Vancouver Aquarium6.3 KM FROM STATION604.659.3400vanaqua.org

Vancouver Maritime Museum4.8 KM FROM STATION604.257.8300vancouvermaritimemuseum.com

Vancouver Symphony Orchestra2.1 KM FROM STATION604.876.3434vancouversymphony.ca

Whistler BlackcombWhistler124 KM FROM STATION1.800.766.0449whistlerblackcomb.com

boatcruises.com

Ian Tan Gallery4 KM FROM STATION604.738.1077iantangallery.com

Kids Market4.3 KM FROM STATION604.689.8447kidsmarket.ca

Kurbatoff Gallery4.2 KM FROM STATION604.736.5444kurbatoffgallery.com

Museum of Anthropology13 KM FROM STATION604.822.5087moa.ubc.ca

Museum of Vancouver4.8 KM FROM STATION604.736.4431museumofvancouver.ca

The Orpheum 2.8 KM FROM STATION604.665.3050vancouver.ca

Peak 2 Peak GondolaWhistler124 KM FROM STATION1.800.944.7853whistlerblackcomb.com

Pirate Adventures4.1 KM FROM STATION604.754.7535pirateadventures.ca

Queen Elizabeth Theatre1.6 KM FROM STATION604.665.3050vancouver.ca

Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden1.2 KM FROM STATION604.662.3207vancouverchinesegarden.com

Granville Island4.1 KM FROM STATION604.666.6655granvilleisland.com

Granville Island Toy Company4.3 KM FROM STATION604.684.0076toycompany.ca

Greater Vancouver Zoo53.3 KM FROM STATION604.856.6825gvzoo.com

Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-MaraParksville111 KM FROM STATION250.248.1838grottospa.com

Grouse Mountain14.4 FROM STATION604.980.9311grousemountain.com

Gulf of Georgia CanneryRichmond21 KM FROM STATION604.664.9009gulfofgeorgiacannery.org

H.R. MacMillan Space Museum4.9 KM FROM STATION604.738.2855spacecentre.ca

Harbour Cruises & Events3.7 KM FROM STATION604.688.7246

Bau-Xi Gallery4.3 KM FROM STREET604.733.7011bau-xi.com

BC Place Stadium1.3 KM FROM STATION604.669.2300bcplacestadium.com

Beaty Biodiversity Museum14.2 KM FROM STATION604.827.4955beatymuseum.ubc.ca

Bloedel Floral Conservatory5.9 KM FROM STATION604.873.7000vancouver.ca

Capilano Suspension Bridge Park10.7 KM FROM STATION604.985.7474capbridge.com

Commodore Ballroom2.7 KM FROM STATION604.739.4550commodoreballroom.com

Contemporary Art Gallery2.4 KM FROM STATION604.681.2700contempoaryartgallery.ca

Craigdarroch CastleVictoria115 KM FROM STATION250.592.5323thecastle.ca

Cypress Mountain20.1 KM FROM STATION604.926.5612cypressmountain.com

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081

Guide Eat + Stay + Play

Science World at TELUS World of Science, Vancouver

Peak 2 Peak Gondola, Whistler

Book now at AmtrakCascades.com

Take the train, take the whole family!On Amtrak Cascades,® Seniors save 15% and Kids ages 2-12travel for 50% off the adult fare.Travel by train and experience the Pacific Northwest's stunning views like never before.Relax in spacious seats and enjoy delicious local food and beverages with friends and familyas you visit such cities as Seattle, Portland, Eugene and Vancouver, B.C.

Fares, routes and schedules are subject to change without notice. Travelers 62 years of age and over are eligible to receive a 15% discount off the best available adult rail fare on most Amtrak trains. Children ages 2 through 12 receive a50% discount on most Amtrak rail fares, all year long, when accompanied by at least one person paying a regular adult rail fare. Up to two children's discounts are permitted in conjunction with each adult traveler. Discounts cannot becombined. Other restrictions may apply. On cross-border services operated jointly by Amtrak and VIA Rail Canada, a 10% Senior discount is applicable to travelers aged 60 and over. Amtrak and Amtrak Cascades are registered trademarksof the National Railroad Passenger Corporation.

ontrakmag.com68 | WINTER 2016

Photo ContestEXP SURE

I wasn’t going on a trip, but I live nearby and was just wandering around town taking photos. The Puyallup Station is for our local commuter line, and I have taken similar train photos before, but never in the daytime. My goal was to capture the speed of the train as it came through.

photo by Chris Sawtelle

Send us your rail travel photo at ontrakmag.com/exposure for achance to have your photo published.

ontrakmag.com ontrakmag.com70 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 71

PORTLAND

EUGENE

SALEM

Vancouver, BC

Bellingham

Mount Vernon

Stanwood

EverettEdmonds

SeattleTukwila

Tacoma

Olympia/Lacey

Centralia

Kelso/Longview

Vancouver, WA

PortlandOregon City

Salem

Albany

Eugene

AMTRAK CASCADES STOPS

StormWatchingpage 42

Ballerina Suzanne Haag

page 25

Winter Surfingpage 33

Kevin Li

ght

Edmun

d Lo

we

4 Reads for the RailBY ANNA BIRD

SELECTED BY THE Pacific Northwest Booksellers Association as four of the best of the Northwest in 2015, these books tell the stories of four distinct journeys. Follow these characters as they confront their past, set out on the open road or train to be a professional ballet dancer. Kick back in your seat and witness these characters transform with each turn of a page.

This is your life, Harriet Chance! by Jonathan EvisonTwo years after her husband Bernard dies, 79-year-old Harriet Chance discovers Bernard won a trip for two on an Alaskan cruise. Uneasy about escaping her mundane routine but hoping the trip would be a much-needed boost, Harriet boards the cruise ship alone and sets sail. Greeted by a series of brutal revelations, Harriet’s trip is one of acceptance, retrospect and forgiveness. Inspired by the 1950s show “This is Your Life,” Evison’s narration pinballs among pivotal events in Harriet’s life, unfolding sixty years of false assumptions.

Last Bus to Wisdom by Ivan DoigThis coming-of-age story is centered on Donal Cameron, growing up in Montana’s Two Medicine Country in the 1950s. Eleven-year-old Donal lives with his grandmother, but when she goes in for a big surgery she sends him on a Greyhound to Manitowoc, Wisconsin to stay with a tyrannical great-aunt and the

aunt’s good-natured husband, Herman. It’s not long before Aunt Kate sends Donal back to Montana, and Uncle Herman decides to fly the coop and go with him. Their adventure west is complete with Doig’s usual ensemble of characters and a few rollicking mishaps. Last Bus to Wisdom is a charming and memorable finale to the late Ivan Doig’s literary legacy.

Crossing the Plains with Bruno by Annick SmithIn the summer of 2003, An-nick Smith and her 95-pound chocolate labrador, Bruno, embark on a two-week road trip across the Great Plains. Traveling from rural Montana

to Chicago’s north side and eventually Lake Michigan, Smith and Bruno’s journey tells a story of companion-ship, aging, romance and loss. This memoir weaves to-gether a tale of travel, history, personal meditation and the present reality of a dog.

Raising the Barre by Lauren KesslerWhen Lauren Kessler was a young girl, she dreamt of becoming a great ballerina. As an award-winning author in her adult life, Kessler was weary of libraries and archives, so she decided to become an immersive jour-nalist and revisit her child-hood dream. Raising the Barre recalls her experience joining the Eugene Ballet Company to perform in The Nutcracker. More than that, it’s a story of taking risks and facing fears, and blithely ignoring how you’re “supposed” to act at a certain age.

ontrakmag.com72 | WINTER 2016 WINTER 2016 | 73

SEATTLE

OLYMPIA

TACOMA

Major improvements for Amtrak CascadesThe Washington State Department of Transportation is investing nearly $800 million in federal grant funds to deliver critical rail infrastructure improvements that will expand travel choices for Amtrak Cascades pas-sengers by 2017. Ten of the 20 projects are already completed, including:

Advanced wayside signal systems create more efficient and safe train movements by upgrading control points, sidings, and turnouts in the 300-mile long Washington corridor

A second 1,300-foot track in Vancouver eases congestion

Improvements at the Port of Van-couver relieves congestion with a new rail trench that separates passenger and rail traffic

A new connection between D to M Streets in Tacoma adds 1.4 miles of new track and allows trains to stop at the new Tacoma Dome Station

A new Tukwila Station replaces a temporary structure with a multimodal hub

Improvements to King Street Sta-tion in Seattle include significant seismic retrofits for safety and restores the lobby to its majestic grandeur

New receiving/departure tracks in Everett eases congestion

Slide management projects stabilize slopes at four vulnerable landslide sites near Mukilteo and Everett to limit rail service disrup-tions (2 others were completed in 2013-14)

A siding extension in Mount Ver-non provides more room for trains to pass each other

A new customs facility in Blaine/Swift creates a second siding for customs inspections

Over the next 18 months you’ll see the completion of the remain-ing projects, including:

A brand-new Tacoma Amtrak Cascades station and a bypass be-tween Tacoma and Nisqually that will result in shorter travel time between Seattle and Portland

Eight new Siemens Charger locomotives will be delivered in fall 2016 to improve reliability, be more fuel efficient, and position us for faster train speeds in the future

King Street Station track improve-ments in Seattle to reconfigure connections and increase capacity for all trains operating at the sta-tion

Two corridor reliability upgrade projects adding state-of-the-art technology and equipment along the entire Washington corridor

Three projects in the Kelso/Kalama/Longview region to improve rail capacity and reduce congestion

A bypass at the Vancouver Rail Yard to separate passenger and freight traffic and reduce congestion

More information on all of the projects can be found on our web-site at www.wsdot.wa.gov/rail

Talia Galvin

See whAtCouLd HapPEnON yOur nExt

TraInAdvEnTUre.

Prices reflect one-way fares. Valid online only and only on Amtrak Cascades. Valid for discounted one-way Coach fares; no upgrades permitted. Other restrictions apply. Amtrak and Amtrak Cascades are service marks of the National Railroad Passenger Corporation.

POrtLanD To EUgeNe

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ontrakmag.com74 | WINTER 2016

Parting Shot

TAKEN ALONG THE SUMPTER VALLEY RAILWAY IN McEWEN, OREGON.

Sumpter Valley Railway’s American Locomotive Company train pulls freight east toward Baker City with the Elkhorn mountains in the distance.

Kevin Madore

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