OWNER'S MANUAL

TABLE OF CONTENT

1. Introduction

2. EC Documentation a) Certificate of homologation b) Declaration of conformity

3. Description a) Hull identification b) Design category c) Technical data d) Maximum recommended load e) Maximum power

4. Assembly Instructions

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1. Introduction

Congratulations on the purchase of your new one-design OPEN 5.70 from Open Sailing. We offer this manual as a guide to increase safety and enjoyment of your new boat. The purpose of this publication is to provide technical information, accurate instructions on how to assemble, maintain and handle your Open 5.70. If this is your first sailboat of this kind, make sure to get plenty of practice in light air if possible. If you are new to sailing, you may contact local sailing clubs or schools in order to get started.

2. EC Documentation

a)Manufacturer Statement of Origin for the boat.b)Manufacturer Statement of Origin for the trailer.c)Limited Warranty Agreement for boat.

We hereby certify that the boat type OPEN 570 bearing hull identification number [HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER HERE] , is built in accordance with the declaration of conformity no. 6632.0590.AO.9 CE-RCD and in accordance with regulation 94/25/CE and ISO norms mentioned.

Technical specification- Type : sailboat- building category : C- Module type : Aa- Hull length (m) : 18 feet 9 inches- Hull beam : 8 feet 3 inches- Displacement (kg) : 1100 lbs.- maximum motor power (cv) : 3- maximum crew : 5- Maximum capacity (kg) : 880 lbs- Trial certificate n°: 6632.0590.AO.9 CE-RCD

Norms used by the manufacturer

- ISO DIS 10087 hull identification number- ISO 10240 owner's manual- EN ISO 12217-2 stability and buoyancy- EN ISO 14946 Maximum load- EN ISO 11592 maximum propulsion power rating

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3. Description a) [HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER HERE]

b) The Open 570 is a sailboat of the C category, i.e. : - Conception category : C «in coastal waters» - use : sailing along the coast. - Windforce (bft) : up to 6. - waves up to 2 m.

c) Technical data - Length : 18 feet 9 inches - Width (max) : 8 feet 3 inches - Displacement : 1100 lbs - Manufacturer : PHILEAS - Category : C

d) Capacity - 5 persons + material max 880 lbs

e) Maximum power -out board motor max 3 CV

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4. Assembly manual

JIBSHEET SYSTEM

Attach the jib blocks on the jib tracks which are mounted inside the cockpit (port and starboard).

PICTURE

Then attach the two “flying” 20mm carbo blocks to the clew of the jib using the lines supplied with each carbo blocks. If you prefer, you can attach the carbo blocks to a shackle which will allow to remove the blocks (and jib sheets) from the clew of the jib.

PICTURE

Attach the jibsheet to the jib block hooker using a bowline knot. Lead the rope up through one of the carbo blocks on the clew of the jib, down through the jib block inside the cockpit, through the cleat, continue on the other side of the boat through the cleat, through the jib block, up to the second carbo block on the jib’s clew and down to the jib block hooker and attach with a bowline knot.

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PICTURE

You have achieved a 2:1 purchased jibsheet (very appreciated by mixed crew). The jib sheet set up is a loop which avoids searching the sheeting line while jibing or tacking.

SPI SHEET SYSTEM

Mount the two single blocks with spring on the pad-eye at the end of the main sail traveller using the split ring. Position the split ring on the bottom and tape it over to ensure there is no sharp edge.

Fix the ratchet blocks on the rear holes of the chain plates. The shackle pin must be on the internal side of the boat.

PICTURE

To run the spinnaker sheet, follow these steps : start from the starboard side. Run the spinnaker sheet through the rachet block. Make sure you are feeding the sheet the right direction

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(when trimming the spinnaker sheet, the block should «  rachet » and you should be able to hear it). Continue running the spinnaker sheet towards the back of the boat to the block on the pad-eye by the starboard side of the main sail traveler. Then, run the sheet forward, along the starboard side of the boat, outside the shroud, around the headstay and then back, on the port side of the boat, to the clew of the spinnaker. Finally, using the other end of the spinnaker sheet, run it through the rachet block on the chain plate on the port side, then back to the block on the pad-eye by the main sail traveler then forward, outside the shroud and to the clew of the spinnaker.To sail and practice outside jibes, make sure the spinnaker sheet is « behind » the spinnaker luff. In other words, the tack line should be « above the spinnaker sheet.

TOE STRAPSToe straps must be fixed according to the following steps :- attach the middle point of the strap to the middle fairlead using several half key knots.- Insert the two ends of the strap in the small plastic pipe and slide it down to the floor.- Insert the small sandow through the two eyelets and fix it with two simple knots.- Attach one end of the strap at the front padeye and the other end at the rear padeye

using the line as shown on the photo with a bowline knot on the strap and a half key knot at the end.

- Repeat the same thing on the other side. The toe straps can be adjusted with the line, using the length that suits you well.

SPINNAKER BAG

Mount the upper part of the bag: remove the butterfly nut, and insert the screws in the three holes on the left side and ask someone to put the nuts on from inside. Make sure to tight the screws by end. Using a powered screw gun will most likely damage the threads of the plastic nuts.

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Then, in order to adjust the velcro at the bottom of the bag, stretch the bottom of the spinnaker bag against the bulkhead, remove the protecting paper starting from the right (easier) pulling the paper with one hand and progressively sticking the Velcro against the bulkhead with the other hand (leave the velcro strap on the bag, it is easier).To maintain the upper part of the bag open stick the velcro that is on the strap above on top of the bag and on the middle either under the cap for elegancy or on the top of the cabin roof for efficiency.

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MAINSHEET SYSTEM

Fix the triple block with becket and cleat on the main traveller and hang the other triple block on the rear pad-eye of the boom. To run the mainsheet and make the assembly easier, position the two blocks face to face, but with a 90° turn.

Make sure to limit the course of the traveller by doing a simple knot at 1 meter from the end of the mainsheet, then fed it through the cleat of the traveller, through the fairlead, and then in the two-sheave block and finally fix it with a figure eight knot to the middle pad-eye under the traveller.You will use the end of the mainsheet to trim the sails, so the position of the simple knot on the rope must be determined in order to avoid the traveller from hitting too violently the stop at the end of the track.

JIB FURLER

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Using the shackle pin, attach the drum of the jib furler to the headstay chain plates. Tighten strongly with some pliers, and if possible, add some lock glue.

The jib furling line goes as follow: feed the furling line through the fairlead on the deck near the furling drum. Then go inside the v-berth and feed the furling line into the transparent plastic hose. Continue to the bulkead, through the most starboard hole, then to the red cleat, under the cabin roof. Then force the transparent hose into the fairlead by the drum. This avoids water to run inside the boat. From time to time, pull out about 1 inch of the hose and cut the worn part of it.

Mount the jib halyard clam cleat (use as jib halyard down-haul) on the upper part of the drum using the small line (use some left over the 20mm carbo blocks used on the jib’s clew).

SPREADER AND DIAMOND WIRES

Attach the diamond wires on to the mast. Turnbuckles must be released for this operation.

PICTURE

Secure the diamond wires on to the spreader tips using the small wire or a line and tape it over to ensure there is no sharp edge.

How to mount and adjust the spreaders :

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PICTURE

The mast of the Open 570 is equipped with spreader bars that maintain laterally the profile and allows the tuning of the mast’s pre-bend. A middle tuning can be obtained by a measurement of 70 mm. This is the distance btw the leading edge (from the 2 wires) to the groove of the mast. (see the picture)

You will need to adjust the pre-bend by adjusting the tension on the turnbuckles and obtain a longitudinal distance of 30mm between the main halyard and the groove of the mast.

REMARK 1: the pre-bend is measured thanks to the main halyard (part that comes from the mast head sheave and that is put against the mast bolt rope entry.

REMARK 2: The tension of the wires must be equal on both sides. The mast must be perfectly horizontal. Phileas Boat suggest a maximum of 380-400 lbs of tension on each wire. Adjust the tension on the wires carefully and make sure the same tension is applied on both side. The wires are 4mm diameter for the diamond.

Always put the cotter pins to secure the turnbuckles. Tape over any part presenting sharp edge to protect the sails and especially the spinnaker.

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MAIN HALYARD

Attach the halyard to the pad-eye at the top of the mast, run the halyard down the shackle/block (that will be attach to the top of the main sail). Then run the halyard back to the top of the mast, and through the sheave at the mast head and down to the mast foot sheave. A figure eight knot finishes the circuit. The main halyard is a 2:1 purchase.

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Secure with a knot. Especially if you use it to lift up the keel, it is mandatory to attach the rope to the cleat in the state of the art : one round turn, one reverse, one half key knot (see the picture).

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PICTURE

The halyard must also be changed each season if you frequently use your boat, every two seasons if not. Only use 6mm dynema or spectra lines. If you use your main halyard to lift the keel up and down, make sure to inspect the halyard on a regular basis. Also, always secure the halyard properly to the cleat at the base of the mast.

PICTURE

SPINNAKER HALYARD

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The spinnaker halyard begins in the big swivel cam cleat at the bottom of the mast. It then goes through one of the mast foot sheave (the one the most to port), then through the mast gate (plastic rubber of the mast with 2 holes on each side – the spinnaker halyard goes to the front port hole), then through the spreader bar on the left side, then in the spi block and finally to the spi head.Note : check after sailing whether the line that runs from the spi halyard block to the mast head is loose and if so, tighten it again.

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FORESTAY AND UPPER SHROUDS

Mount the swivel between the shackle and the forestay eyelet. Do not forget the washers each side of the eyelet. Tighten strongly.Lead the jib halyard in the swivel (over the forestay eyelet and between the washers).

PICTURE

Attach the forestay and the shrouds on the big shackle that is on the mast toungue, with the shackle pins facing outside.Tighten all shackles strongly with a plier and tape them over to secure them all.When you transport your boat on the road, you can disassemble the forestay and shrouds by removing only the big shackle from the mast.

PICTURE

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If you want to can install a wind indicator on the (metric) thread that is provided at the top of the mast. Be careful when handling the mast, a wind indicator is very fragile on land.

PICTURE

STEPPING THE MASTPrepare the mast and check that the wires are not tangled. Remove the safety pin from the base of the mast. It is a small bolt with a lock nut.

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Put the mast foot on the mast base. The mast must be facing to the right side, must be on the left side of the keel and must be 90 degrees at all time when raising and lowering. Replace the safety pin into the base of the mast.Lift the mast up to its position in the mast gate and secure it with carbon bracket with the 4 pins.

Now attach the forestay (around the 7th hole) and then the shrouds (front hole of the chain plates). Make sure the turnbuckles of the shrouds are loose.Adjust the shrouds tension. Recommended tension should not be over 400 lbs per shroud.Caution : too much tension may cause damages.

Check that the mast is well positioned into the mast gate. It must be slightly leaning towards the front, not on the back of the boat. If it is not the case, modify the position of the forestay in the stay adjuster, one hole back or forth until you find the good tuning.

It is normal that when the shrouds are tensioned, the mast is slightly bent forward. This is due to the fact that the wires are attached on the mast tongue on the front of the profile. A pre-bend of the spreader bar as indicated above will reduce this trend.

INSTALLATION OF THE CUNNINGHAM

The Cunningham is achieved with two lines: the longer one is fed through the smaller of the two clam cleat, then in the flying pulley at the mast foot and then in the flying block with hooker, down in one of the mast foot sheaves and finally up to flying block hooker where it is fixed with a bowline knot.

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The shorter rope is fixed to the flying single block using a bowline knot. Then fed it through one of the holes in the mast gate, then in the tack point of the mainsail, down on the left side in one of the holes of the mast gate. Sheet in and make a half key knot that will determine the fixed point of the cunningham system. The tuning is therefore made with the clam cleat.

Full battened main sails must have a strong tension in the cunningham.

INSTALLATION OF THE JIB

The jib on the Open 5.70 is a furling jib. It is NOT a reefing jib. You should never sail with a jib that is partially rolled or unrolled.

Attach one end of the jib halyard to the head of the jibClose the zip on 10 cm width around the forestay.Lead the halyard down inside.Lead the halyard up along the forestay and fix it on the first bowline knot. You have achieved a closed circuit and your halyard will no more be on your way at the bottom of the sail.Hoist the jib while closing progressively the zip.

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Attach the tack point of the jib to the stay adjuster using the shackle. Once the jib is hoisted, make a loop on the falling halyard. Fix the jib luff tensioning rope to the clam cleat, lead it up through the loop and down to the cleat through the sheave. You have achieved a 2:1 purchased jib luff tensioner. Caution, pulling on the jib halyard will tension the cloth and arch the jib luff.

It is recommended to put some tension. However, too much tension will affect pointing upwind (negatively) and will damage the sail overtime, especially if you do not ease the tension down after sailing.

To set the jib furler correctly the first time, do as follow: pull on the furling line and cleat it the furler cleat, under the cabin roof. By hand, furl the jib on itself, counter clock wise. Once the jib is furled, ease the furling line about 1 foot and half and finish furling the jib. If you have not done so yet, mount the 20mm carbo blocks on the clew, and run the jib sheets as indicated in the manual. Finally, test the system by easing the furling line and pull on one of the jib sheet. The jib will unfurled and the furling line with rap around the drum.

MAIN SAIL INSTALLATION

The main sail is fully battened. It is absolutely necessary to tension all the battens of the main sail (especially the upper ones) before going sailing. Tensioning the battens will avoid to loose them while sailing, will save the shape of the main and will give the main better performances upwind and downwind. In the best of the world, it is good to ease the battens tension if you are not sailing (especially if you are not using the boat for a long period of time). The battens tension is very easy to adjust by screwing / unscrewing the cap of the battens.

PICTURE

You may store the rolled main sail with the battens in the cockpit at the front: slightly bend the main in order to fit the 5 inches and put it on the side of the cockpit, under the deck.

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Attach the boom on the composite gooseneck.

Attach the mainsail clew point to the mainsheet system using the shackle.

RUDDERS

The Open 5.70 is one of the only sportboat with twin rudders. If you have never sailed a boat with twin rudders, you will find the Open 5.70 very neutral at the helm and sometimes have less sensations going upwind. However, downwind, the twin rudders system gives the helsman better control in the puff and great planning sensation.

First, mount the central tiller. Using the double nut system, make sure the tiller can move smoothly. Also make sure to add one or two Teflon washers under the central tiller.Screw the connection bars to the central tiller. Once adjusted to the right length, the lock nuts will have to be moved so you will not have to measure the length again if you remove the connetion bars.Mount the rudders. Be careful not to drop them. Also, when mounting the rudders on the boat while it is on the trailer, we recommend that you tilt the boat bow down with the trailer (lower the front wheel to the minimum height) and therefore lift the stern up. This will avoid any accidental damage of the rudders tip.Adjust the length of the connection bar. Using a tape measurer, make sure you have the same distance on each side. We recommend to toe the rudders in a bit. Toeing the rudders out will definitely create more drag and slow the boat down.

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KEEL SET UP

The Open 5.70 has a lifting keel of 405 Lbs (+/- 5 Lbs). The foil is about 75 lbs. The bulb weights about 330 lbs. Never try to move the keel on your own. Always take precautions when lifting the keel up and down. Regardless of the method used to lift the keel, always make sure that the lifting straps/lines are in good condition.

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There are 3 ways to lift the keel :

1) Using the main halyard and the 6 :1 mainsheet system.

- Attach the top triple block of the mainsheet to the keel (using a line that goes around twice in the middle top hole of the foil).

- Attach the bottom block of the mainsheet to the main sail halyard.- To lift the keel up  : ease the mainsheet about 6 feet in between the 2 triple blocks. Hoist

the main halyard accordingly and safely secure it to the cleat at the bottom of the mast. Pull on the 6 :1 until there is no load on the bolts anymore, remove the nuts and bolts and finish raising the keel.

- To lower the keel : attach the main halyard and mainsheet system blocks together and to the keel. Once the boat is in the water, stable, lower the keel down. Adjust the height of the keel until you can safely put the bolts and nuts.

2) Using the keel lifting mechanism (option offered when buying an Open 5.70)

- Mount the keel lifting mechanism in the black pods that are mounted in front of the keel box.

- Attach the line that goes from the eyepad at the top of the keel lifting mechanism, around the mast and back to eyepad at the top of the keel mechanism.

- Adjust the lenght of the line so the keel is centered (longitudinaly) in the keel box. This will make sure that the trailing and leading edges do not get damaged when lowering or lifting the keel.

- Attach the keel to the 2 :1 purchase of the keel lifting mechanism.- Using the winch, lower or raise the keel.

3) The lifting straps

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- When using a hoist, you can use one of the straps (the short one) to lower and lift the keel. When moving the keel up or down, make sure that you (or you crew) guide the keel correctly in the keel box to avoid any damages of the leading and trailing edges.

CAUTION :

- Never put your fingers or foot in between the foil and the keel box when moving the keel (or at any time actually).

- Do not leave the keel suspended (which ever way you got it up) for more time than necessary.

- Do not leave trailer the boat or do not leave the boat at a mooring with the keel up.- If possible, avoid moving the boat too much when the keel is up. Always manipulate the

keel before the rest of the boat when launching or at the end when taking the boat out of the water.

- When the keel is up, put the bolts in the holes immediately (the bottom holes).- Manipulate the keel with care. Never hurry and be smooth.- Do not put your fingers in or near the winch of the keel lifting mechanism.- If you manipulate the keel using the main halyard, we recommend that you change the

halyard after one year. Do not use pre-stretched or kelvar lines. LAUNCHING

- Regarding the keel :- Make sure the keel is secured and fully HOISTED. The bulb should NOT rest on the trailer

when launching the boat. Your keel, foil and buld will not clear the trailer frame and will be severely damaged if the keel is not all the way up when launching.

- To avoid scratching the foil when lauching, place some line in the front and back of the keel box. You can also stuff some baseball hats on each side to avoid the keel moving in the keel box when taking the boat in and out of the water.

PICTURE

- FROM A RAMP- LAUNCHING

- Make sure the keel is all the way up- Back the trailer in the water until the boat floats.- Pull the boat STRAIGHT out of the trailer.

- TAKING THE BOAT OUT OF THE WATER- Lift the keel all the way up-

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-- Bring the trailer in the water until the forward cradle is in the water.- Guide the boat straight in the trailer.- Secure the boat with the trailer straps on the forward winch.- Bring the boat out of the water.- Make sure the boat is straight on the trailer.- Bring the keel down until the buld rests on the trailer.

- FROM A YACHT CLUB HOIST

- LAUNCHING- Attach the straps to the boat : the long straps go to the chain plates back hole (you

have to remove the spinnaker blocks). The short one goes to the keel and the 4th strap goes around the mast and back to the hook of the hoist.

- Lift the boat up and bring it down to the water.- When the boat floats, STOP the hoist and ask you crew to step aboard. Remove the

strap that goes around the mast and the side ones.- Ask you crew to guide the keel in the keel box when lowering.

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- TAKING THE BOAT OUT OF THE WATER- Attach the straps.- Lift the keel first. Have you crew guide the keel in the keel box.- Pad the keel (front, back and sides) in the keel box.- Ask you crew to step out of the boat- Get tension on the side straps and lift the boat up.- Bring the boat down on the trailer. Make sure it is straight on the trailer.

Rinse your trailer after each contact with salt water especially.The trailer has sealed bearings but it is still recommended to rinse the entire trailer.

GET YOUR BOAT READY FOR THE ROAD.

- Secure the keel :- First, pad the leading edge of the keel inside the keel box. You can use carpet,

camping mattress piece, a t-shir…anything will do as long as it is soft and will not scratch the foil.

- Attach a line under the keel : from the front beam on the trailer, back around the keel an back to the beam. Do not put too much tension yet. The tension will be made when attaching the top part of the keel.

- Attach a line to the u-bolt on the bow of the boat with a bowline knot. Go to the top of the keel in the most forward hole. Using a « trucker knot », create a 2  :1 purchase and tight very firmly the keel. If possible, when standing in the cockpit, push the keel forward as much as possible and pull on your 2  :1 purchase system. Lock the keel in place by securing with a knot.

- When driving and stopping (gas, food), always double check the keel. Make sure there your ropes are still tight and that the padding in btw the foil and the keel box is still in place.

- The Mast

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- The front of the mast sits the fork, on the mast support pole.- The mast sits so the stainless steel tongue is just passed the fork, therefore preventing

the mast to slide back.- The back of the mast is sitting off center (right or left) at the end of the traveler track.- Secure front and back with bungees (supplied with your boat).- Add a line from the chain plate to the middle of the mast and tension it well. The bend

will not damage the mast and will reduce vibration while driving.

- The boom- The boom can be attached to the carbon fiber gooseneck.- The boom is attached off center (opposite side of the mast) and secured with a

bungee to the main traveler track.- The boat

- the bow is tensioned. Too much tension will damage the bow while driving.- forward strap- back strap

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- Do not tension the straps too much.

SIGNALS PLATE- Attach the plate with bungees- Run the wire harness forward, under the straps to your vehicle.- Using the small bungees, attach the beam lights to the chain plates.

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