open skies may 2011
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Open Skies magazine, May 2011TRANSCRIPT
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because youlike it when thingsrun smoothlyThe HTC Desire S smartphone, with the clever, easy to use HTC Sense experience and super-fast web browsing, is designed to be your organiser. So youll always have the things you use most at your ngertips.
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HTC_Desire_S_Emirates Open Skies Full page AD ad.pdf 1 4/21/11 7:33 PM
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EDITORS LETTER
12
as no more than a place to go on safari does it a disservice. Redux means to restore, or to bring back. While Africa, and its treasures, has always been there, the perception of it has often been wrong.
We will show you a different side of the continent; some of the places we have been to, some of the places we will never forget. From Asmaras Art Deco architecture to the continents most fascinating leader, from Namibias Skeleton Coast to the chaos of urban Nigeria. We bring you the late Ryszard Kapuciski, whose piece captures Africas complexities. His brand of literary journalism is often misunderstood, but always compelling, much like Africa itself.
Africa is a continent that has always been a source of fascination. This has often manifested itself in oppression and greed, and Africa has often been misrepresented ironic, given its quite
possibly the most diverse continent on Earth. My own travels have taken me from the stunning rock-hewn churches of northern Ethiopia, to the white-washed medinas of Morocco; from deserted islands off the coast of Djibouti to Khartoums raucous central market. And here, where I sit writing this letter, on the western-most tip of the continent, in Dakar, Senegal, where the atmosphere is almost Latin; the streets buzzing with people, music and smells. Our cover shows the outline of Africa; its there, if you look hard enough. We wanted to illustrate that Africa needs a second glance; that to dismiss it
INTERNATIONAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVESAUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 89 447 2734, [email protected] BENELUX M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, Fax +322 725 1522, [email protected] CHINA Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 FRANCE Intermedia Europe Ltd; Tel +33 15 534 9550, Fax +33 15 534 9549, administration@ intermedia.europe.com GERMANY IMV International Media Service GmbH; Tel +49 89 54 590 738, Fax +49 89 54 590 769, [email protected] INDIA Media Star; Tel +91 22 281 5538, Fax +91 22 283 9619, [email protected] ITALY IMM Italia; Tel +39 023 653 4433, Fax +39 029 998 1376, [email protected] JAPAN Skynet Media, Inc.; Tel/Fax +81 43 278 6977 [email protected] NETHERLANDS GIO Media; Tel +31 6223 8420, [email protected] HONGKONG/MALAYSIA/THAILAND Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 27 230 373, Fax +852 27 391 815, [email protected] SOUTH AFRICA International Media Representatives; Tel +27 11 234 9875, [email protected] SPAIN IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, [email protected] UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, Fax +44 207 906 2022, [email protected] USA Totem Brand Stories; Tel +212 896 3846, Fax +212 896 3848, [email protected]
PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 282 4060Fax:(+971 4) 282 4436 Email: [email protected]
Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact The Editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, nancial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.
Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer GROUP EDITOR & MANAGING PARTNER Ian Fairservice GROUP SENIOR EDITOR (JOB+PIOTPOHJOB!NPUJWBUFBF SENIOR EDITOR .BSL&WBOTNBSLF!NPUJWBUFBF EDITOR$POPS1VSDFMMDPOPS!motivate.ae ART DIRECTOR5JB4FJGFSUUJB!NPUJWBUFBF JUNIOR DESIGNER Roui Francisco CHIEF SUB EDITOR Iain 4NJUIJBJOT!NPUJWBUFBF GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION S Sasidharan PRODUCTION MANAGER C Sudhakar GENERAL MANAGER, GROUP SALES "OUIPOZ .JMOF BOUIPOZ!NPUJWBUFBF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER/JDPMB)VETPOOJDPMB!NPUJWBUFBF SENIOR ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER+BZB#BMBLSJTIOBOKBZB!NPUJWBUFae; DEPUTY ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Murali Narayanan ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Shruti Srivastava EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES: Editor: Siobhan Bardet Arabic Editor: Hatem Omar Deputy Editor: Stephanie Byrne Website emirates.com. CONTRIBUTORS: Simon Page, Clar Ni Chonghaile, Kovas Boguta, Gaby Stadler, Keith Bain, Seun Kuti, Wael Al Sayegh, Gemma Correll, Phil Oh, Eric Lafforgue, Nick Rowlands, Adham Bakry, Michela Wrong, Fran Sandham, Howard W. French, Luis De La Salas, Eve Edelson, Ryszard Kapuciski, Jakob Wagner, Axis Maps, COVER ILLUSTRATION by Simon Page MASTHEAD DESIGNCZ2VJOUXXXRVJOUEVCBJDPN
84,649COPIES
OS03_013-013_EdsLetter.indd 12 4/20/11 4:20:25 PM
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EDITORS LETTER
12
as no more than a place to go on safari does it a disservice. Redux means to restore, or to bring back. While Africa, and its treasures, has always been there, the perception of it has often been wrong.
We will show you a different side of the continent; some of the places we have been to, some of the places we will never forget. From Asmaras Art Deco architecture to the continents most fascinating leader, from Namibias Skeleton Coast to the chaos of urban Nigeria. We bring you the late Ryszard Kapuciski, whose piece captures Africas complexities. His brand of literary journalism is often misunderstood, but always compelling, much like Africa itself.
Africa is a continent that has always been a source of fascination. This has often manifested itself in oppression and greed, and Africa has often been misrepresented ironic, given its quite
possibly the most diverse continent on Earth. My own travels have taken me from the stunning rock-hewn churches of northern Ethiopia, to the white-washed medinas of Morocco; from deserted islands off the coast of Djibouti to Khartoums raucous central market. And here, where I sit writing this letter, on the western-most tip of the continent, in Dakar, Senegal, where the atmosphere is almost Latin; the streets buzzing with people, music and smells. Our cover shows the outline of Africa; its there, if you look hard enough. We wanted to illustrate that Africa needs a second glance; that to dismiss it
INTERNATIONAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVESAUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 89 447 2734, [email protected] BENELUX M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, Fax +322 725 1522, [email protected] CHINA Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 FRANCE Intermedia Europe Ltd; Tel +33 15 534 9550, Fax +33 15 534 9549, administration@ intermedia.europe.com GERMANY IMV International Media Service GmbH; Tel +49 89 54 590 738, Fax +49 89 54 590 769, [email protected] INDIA Media Star; Tel +91 22 281 5538, Fax +91 22 283 9619, [email protected] ITALY IMM Italia; Tel +39 023 653 4433, Fax +39 029 998 1376, [email protected] JAPAN Skynet Media, Inc.; Tel/Fax +81 43 278 6977 [email protected] NETHERLANDS GIO Media; Tel +31 6223 8420, [email protected] HONGKONG/MALAYSIA/THAILAND Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 27 230 373, Fax +852 27 391 815, [email protected] SOUTH AFRICA International Media Representatives; Tel +27 11 234 9875, [email protected] SPAIN IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, [email protected] UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, Fax +44 207 906 2022, [email protected] USA Totem Brand Stories; Tel +212 896 3846, Fax +212 896 3848, [email protected]
PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 282 4060Fax:(+971 4) 282 4436 Email: [email protected]
Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact The Editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, nancial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.
Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer GROUP EDITOR & MANAGING PARTNER Ian Fairservice GROUP SENIOR EDITOR (JOB+PIOTPOHJOB!NPUJWBUFBF SENIOR EDITOR .BSL&WBOTNBSLF!NPUJWBUFBF EDITOR$POPS1VSDFMMDPOPS!motivate.ae ART DIRECTOR5JB4FJGFSUUJB!NPUJWBUFBF JUNIOR DESIGNER Roui Francisco CHIEF SUB EDITOR Iain 4NJUIJBJOT!NPUJWBUFBF GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION S Sasidharan PRODUCTION MANAGER C Sudhakar GENERAL MANAGER, GROUP SALES "OUIPOZ .JMOF BOUIPOZ!NPUJWBUFBF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER/JDPMB)VETPOOJDPMB!NPUJWBUFBF SENIOR ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER+BZB#BMBLSJTIOBOKBZB!NPUJWBUFae; DEPUTY ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Murali Narayanan ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Shruti Srivastava EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES: Editor: Siobhan Bardet Arabic Editor: Hatem Omar Deputy Editor: Stephanie Byrne Website emirates.com. CONTRIBUTORS: Simon Page, Clar Ni Chonghaile, Kovas Boguta, Gaby Stadler, Keith Bain, Seun Kuti, Wael Al Sayegh, Gemma Correll, Phil Oh, Eric Lafforgue, Nick Rowlands, Adham Bakry, Michela Wrong, Fran Sandham, Howard W. French, Luis De La Salas, Eve Edelson, Ryszard Kapuciski, Jakob Wagner, Axis Maps, COVER ILLUSTRATION by Simon Page MASTHEAD DESIGNCZ2VJOUXXXRVJOUEVCBJDPN
84,649COPIES
OS03_013-013_EdsLetter.indd 12 4/20/11 4:20:25 PM
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14
CONTENTS
WE FIND OUT WHY NAIROBI IS QUICKLY BECOMING EAST AFRICAS TECH
HUB (P21) EGYPTS DIGITAL SPHERE OF INFLUENCE IS EXPLAINED (P22)
AFRICAS TOP SAFARI COMPANIES GIVE US THEIR TWITTER PITCHES (P25)
NIGERIAS GREATEST WRITER, CHINUA ACHEBE, GETS THE ONCE OVER
(P27) WE GET THE LOW DOWN ON JOHANNESBURG (P28) AND TAKE A
LOOK AT THE RISE OF AFRICAN CINEMA (P32) SENA KUTI GIVES US HIS
SKYPOD PLAYLIST (P34) BLOOD DIAMOND STAR DJIMON HOUNSOU
TALKS FAME, BENIN AND HIS NIGHTS SPENT HOMELESS (P41) WE
DISCOVER CLASSIC ART DECO ARCHITECTURE IN ERITREA (P44) AND
REVEAL ONE OF CAIROS OLDEST AND MOST INTERESTING SHOPS (P46)
MICHELA WRONG LOOKS AT THE LEGACY OF ETHIOPIAS KING OF KINGS,
HAILE SELASSIE (P54) FRAN SANDHAM TAKES A LONG WALK FROM
NAMIBIA TO KENYA (P62) WHILE WE EXAMINE CHINAS NEW AFRICAN
EMPIRE (P70)NIGERIAS SCAM HAS BECOME INFAMOUS AROUND THE
WORLD.WE INVESTIGATE (P78)LEGENDARY JOURNALIST AND WRITER
RYSZARD KAPUCISKI TAKES A BUS JOURNEY IN GHANA (P86)
WE TAKE A STUNNING AERIAL VIEW OF CAPE TOWN AND BEYOND (P96)
MAY
OS03_014-014_Contents.indd 14 4/18/11 11:29:15 PM
-
14
CONTENTS
WE FIND OUT WHY NAIROBI IS QUICKLY BECOMING EAST AFRICAS TECH
HUB (P21) EGYPTS DIGITAL SPHERE OF INFLUENCE IS EXPLAINED (P22)
AFRICAS TOP SAFARI COMPANIES GIVE US THEIR TWITTER PITCHES (P25)
NIGERIAS GREATEST WRITER, CHINUA ACHEBE, GETS THE ONCE OVER
(P27) WE GET THE LOW DOWN ON JOHANNESBURG (P28) AND TAKE A
LOOK AT THE RISE OF AFRICAN CINEMA (P32) SENA KUTI GIVES US HIS
SKYPOD PLAYLIST (P34) BLOOD DIAMOND STAR DJIMON HOUNSOU
TALKS FAME, BENIN AND HIS NIGHTS SPENT HOMELESS (P41) WE
DISCOVER CLASSIC ART DECO ARCHITECTURE IN ERITREA (P44) AND
REVEAL ONE OF CAIROS OLDEST AND MOST INTERESTING SHOPS (P46)
MICHELA WRONG LOOKS AT THE LEGACY OF ETHIOPIAS KING OF KINGS,
HAILE SELASSIE (P54) FRAN SANDHAM TAKES A LONG WALK FROM
NAMIBIA TO KENYA (P62) WHILE WE EXAMINE CHINAS NEW AFRICAN
EMPIRE (P70)NIGERIAS SCAM HAS BECOME INFAMOUS AROUND THE
WORLD.WE INVESTIGATE (P78)LEGENDARY JOURNALIST AND WRITER
RYSZARD KAPUCISKI TAKES A BUS JOURNEY IN GHANA (P86)
WE TAKE A STUNNING AERIAL VIEW OF CAPE TOWN AND BEYOND (P96)
MAY
OS03_014-014_Contents.indd 14 4/18/11 11:29:15 PM
www.citizen-me.comLEBANON, H.G. Yessayan & Co.: +961 1 335554 / 335559 / 240960 / 240961 MAURITIUS, J. Kalachand & Co Ltd.: +230 2060690 / 2128410 EGYPT, General Commerce Co. Ltd.: +202 24026782 / 22617044 SAUDI ARABIA, Ali Zaid Al Quraishi & Bros, Jeddah: +966 2 6454444, Riyadh: +966 1 2871354, Dammam: +966 3 8283730, Madina: +966 4 8380272 / 8380292, Khamis Mushayt: +966 7 2358282, Makkah: +966 2 5611303, Buraydah: +966 6 3245110 QATAR, Blue Saloon: +974 44466111 BAHRAIN, Yaquby Stores WLL: +973 17210959 / 17210956 UNITED ARAB EMIRATES, Juma Al Majid Establishment, Dubai: +971 4 2281617 / 2231052, Abu Dhabi: +971 2 6444689, Sharjah: +971 6 5680959 MALDIVES, Reefside Co. Pvt. Ltd.: +960 3323545 JORDAN, Time Center: +962 6 5817575 SYRIA, Dummar and Fattal: +963 11 3331619 OMAN, Sarco LLC: +968 24709171 / 73 / 74 KUWAIT, Easa Husain Al Yousifi & Sons Co.: +965 24810246
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16
CONTRIBUTORS
A[doW Where the Nairobi-NaivashaRoad reaches its peak
M>7J?IOEKH
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16
CONTRIBUTORS
A[doW Where the Nairobi-NaivashaRoad reaches its peak
M>7J?IOEKH
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19
INTRO P. 27 chinua achebe P. johannesburg mapped P. dakar booty
WE GO ON THE
ANTIQUES
TRAIL IN CAIRO AND FIND
ONE THE CITYS MOST
INTERESTING SHOPS
P46
OS03_019-019_FOBCover.indd 19 4/18/11 9:18:08 PM
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21
OUR MAN IN
In a bright, airy room above the red roofs of Nairobi, dozens of young people are sitting at laptops, tapping and clicking and
dreaming up the next big thing.
This is the iHub, an open space for
innovators, investors, and anyone
interested in IT. If Nairobi is East
Africas technology hub, this room off
Ngong Road is its bleeping heart.
Erik Hersman, who co-founded iHub,
describes it as a neutral nexus. Every
investor who is interested in tech comes
through here We connect people.
Opened last year, the iHub has
more than 3,000 members already.
To cope with demand, an advisory
board vets potential members who
can use the space for free.
Hersman, who grew up in Sudan
and Kenya, is something of a tech
guru in Nairobi, where young people
are increasingly blogging and
tweeting, creating a kind of parallel,
virtual country. Over the past
year the number of internet users
has more than doubled from three
million to 7.5 million and more
people are using their mobiles to get
online. Hersman says this is the next
frontier. Mobile web is a massive,
massive thing thats coming, he
said. Were about a year out from
real penetration of mobile web data-
enabled stuff and about two years
out from mass penetration with the
public looking to take advantage.
This could be a potential goldmine
for the men and women hunched over
their computers at the iHub. Mobile
web means mobile apps and mobile
ads, and the right one could go global.
There does seem to be something
special about the talent in Nairobi
something that has turned this
brash, confident city into a byword
for tech innovation, not just in the
region, but Africa-wide.
I think its the psyche, the mindset,
said David Owino, co-founder of
HumanIPO, which connects small
investors with entrepreneurs via its
social media platform. We have a lot
of young people who want to take on
the world, and they believe they can
do it You dont get that attitude in a
lot of places.
Part of this comes from Nairobis
standing as a regional hub; the
Kenyan middle classes are wealthy
by regional standards and there is
an unmistakeable confidence about
the Kenyan capital. Hersman says
education and training also count:
there are good universities but also
big corporations who have trained
their staff in IT. Many of the global
behemoths Microsoft, Google,
Nokia, IBM have offices in the city.
To have those international tech
companies here is a real advantage.
You dont have that in Dar es Salaam.
You dont have that in Kampala,
Hersman says.
Another plus is increased and
cheaper bandwidth (1GB costs around
$30 a month) since the arrival of three
undersea, fibre-optic cables in 2009.
Kenya has also been relatively stable
over the past 40 years. And Hersman
says monopolies and innovation-
stunting regulation is being curbed.
What is lacking is enough seed
capital the iHub is trying to lure
foreign investors, who are generally
more willing to take risks, and hopes
this will force local investors to step
up to the plate.
There is a lot of foreign interest
from small investors, says Owino.
[But} we have more investors than
businesses. There are very few
people on the business side. We need
to put a lot of effort into that.
Given the can-do Kenyan attitude,
few would bet against it.
THE KENYAN CAPITAL IS FINDING A NICHE FOR ITSELF AS THE TECHNOLOGY HUB OF EAST AFRICA
Clar Ni Chonghaile is a writer based in Nairobi. You can follow her at http://twitter.com/clarnic
NAIROBI
OS03_029-029_OurMan.indd 21 4/18/11 7:35:52 PM
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PTSOLAR.pdf 4/20/11 9:56:47 AM
-
21
OUR MAN IN
In a bright, airy room above the red roofs of Nairobi, dozens of young people are sitting at laptops, tapping and clicking and
dreaming up the next big thing.
This is the iHub, an open space for
innovators, investors, and anyone
interested in IT. If Nairobi is East
Africas technology hub, this room off
Ngong Road is its bleeping heart.
Erik Hersman, who co-founded iHub,
describes it as a neutral nexus. Every
investor who is interested in tech comes
through here We connect people.
Opened last year, the iHub has
more than 3,000 members already.
To cope with demand, an advisory
board vets potential members who
can use the space for free.
Hersman, who grew up in Sudan
and Kenya, is something of a tech
guru in Nairobi, where young people
are increasingly blogging and
tweeting, creating a kind of parallel,
virtual country. Over the past
year the number of internet users
has more than doubled from three
million to 7.5 million and more
people are using their mobiles to get
online. Hersman says this is the next
frontier. Mobile web is a massive,
massive thing thats coming, he
said. Were about a year out from
real penetration of mobile web data-
enabled stuff and about two years
out from mass penetration with the
public looking to take advantage.
This could be a potential goldmine
for the men and women hunched over
their computers at the iHub. Mobile
web means mobile apps and mobile
ads, and the right one could go global.
There does seem to be something
special about the talent in Nairobi
something that has turned this
brash, confident city into a byword
for tech innovation, not just in the
region, but Africa-wide.
I think its the psyche, the mindset,
said David Owino, co-founder of
HumanIPO, which connects small
investors with entrepreneurs via its
social media platform. We have a lot
of young people who want to take on
the world, and they believe they can
do it You dont get that attitude in a
lot of places.
Part of this comes from Nairobis
standing as a regional hub; the
Kenyan middle classes are wealthy
by regional standards and there is
an unmistakeable confidence about
the Kenyan capital. Hersman says
education and training also count:
there are good universities but also
big corporations who have trained
their staff in IT. Many of the global
behemoths Microsoft, Google,
Nokia, IBM have offices in the city.
To have those international tech
companies here is a real advantage.
You dont have that in Dar es Salaam.
You dont have that in Kampala,
Hersman says.
Another plus is increased and
cheaper bandwidth (1GB costs around
$30 a month) since the arrival of three
undersea, fibre-optic cables in 2009.
Kenya has also been relatively stable
over the past 40 years. And Hersman
says monopolies and innovation-
stunting regulation is being curbed.
What is lacking is enough seed
capital the iHub is trying to lure
foreign investors, who are generally
more willing to take risks, and hopes
this will force local investors to step
up to the plate.
There is a lot of foreign interest
from small investors, says Owino.
[But} we have more investors than
businesses. There are very few
people on the business side. We need
to put a lot of effort into that.
Given the can-do Kenyan attitude,
few would bet against it.
THE KENYAN CAPITAL IS FINDING A NICHE FOR ITSELF AS THE TECHNOLOGY HUB OF EAST AFRICA
Clar Ni Chonghaile is a writer based in Nairobi. You can follow her at http://twitter.com/clarnic
NAIROBI
OS03_029-029_OurMan.indd 21 4/18/11 7:35:52 PM
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PTSOLAR.pdf 4/20/11 9:56:47 AM
-
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ArabRevolution
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arabist
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asteris
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bungdan
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demaghmak
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ecesr
EIPR
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ellozy
elnadeem
emad_mubarak
EngyG
eSocialists
estr4ng3d
evanchill
ezabi
Farfahinne
Firas_Atraqchi
fustat
gamaleid
Ghafari
Ghonim
gr33ndata
Gsquare86
Gue3bara
hackneylad
hadeelalsh
hebalsherif
hebamorayef
ianinegypt
ibnkafkaikra
ircpresident
iRevolt
JanoCharbel
JawazSafar
jilliancyork
jonjensen
JustAmira
justimage
maggieosama
MaiZeiny
MaLek
malekadly
manal
manalfahmi
mand0z
Mariumaz
maxstrasser
moftasa Mohamdaziz
mohamedwaked
MohammedY
monaanismonasosh
moneimpress
nadeen_aboshady
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nashwanasreldin
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norashalaby
N_Pinko
occupiedcairo
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ranwayehia
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salmasaid
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sharifkouddous
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abdome
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ANaje
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Egypreneur
Elakkad
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degner
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ArabObserver
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HerMaeness
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M_ibr
monamahfouz
naglarzk
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Sabrology
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Messrologist
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Katulis
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mardinix
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CivilLizard
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information elegance
graph
22
The egypTian TwiTTerinfluence neTworkTwitter users influence each other if they follow each other, shown here with blue lines. users are placed near the other users they influence the most. user size represents their influence across the entire Twitter network. english users are in Blue and arabic users in red.
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25Egypt
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AhmedAlBaghdadi
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AmrEzzat
ganzeer
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ajtalk
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mbaa
mosaaberizing
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basemfathy
jordantimes
AbdelrahmanAmr
VodafoneEgypt
ashoukry
KimFoxWOSU
mkhawaja
RamyMahrous
salmaeldaly
alfarhan
halmustafa
aelsadek
Ahmed_Adel
AhmedEssawy
AimanTarekDonziii
etharkamal
gimbo
kamelasmar
khadijapatel
MMM
MoatazKotb
MoEltaher
MostafaNageeb
MuhammadAdel
noornet
salemsayed
tickylum
TwitPic
WamdaME
AJCountingCost
AlanFisher
bb_aisha
blakehounshell
donatelladr
EthanZ
habibahamid
khanfarw
mmbilal
Moadow
moeed
mosharrafzaidi
mrayyan
Nabeelrajab
nawaat
nolanjazeera
Riy
safdar
Saudiwoman
slim404
abdulhaykal
aitmit
AlOraibi
ecubeisy
fadig
khalidalkhalifa
Ktabaza
moalkhalifa
nadinetoukan
octavianasr
reemkhouri
shalabi
abedagha
EliasDarwish
LaraABCNews
mdarrab
mebwini
Messrologist
nagisalloum
ritakml
tariqha
abeerallamFT
ahmed
alfagih
elkoshary
erin_pelton
essamz
MahSabbagh
mohalfares
SaudiLawyer
abkamal
afaramawy
ahmedsamih
AP
bataleh
daliaziada
maliksoft
NatashaTynes
NoraYounis
Seldemerdash
TurkiAldakhil
abuaardvark
abumuqawama
AmjadAtallah
DidiRemez
emile_hokayem
FP_Magazine
glcarlstrom
HannahAllam
jeremyscahill
joshmull
joshrogin
Katulis
Kawdess
LeilaFadel
Londonstani
lrozen
Max_Fisher
MiddleEastInst
mwhanna1
shadihamid
stevenacook
themoornextdoor
tweetsintheME
WSJMidEast
AliElBaradei
dinamarrie
EACPE
fatmaemam
hadouta
kareemamer
MohamadOmran
M_Salama86
Radwan_Adam
WalaaEssa
youssef_harrazNaheedMustafa
abzzyyDanyAwad
jennaalawi
mzaher
Pazuzu_hsp
TrellaLB
ubermoe
UxSoup
EgyPress
HusseinGaber
globalvoices
Lujee
afahad Ardroid
DrBaher
khaled
meedan
mnystedt
mskayyali
njarrar
okbah
RobaAssi
samihtoukan
CaireneGirl
HanyMorcos
mostafagamrah
AJEnglish
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ahmadragheb
benmhennilina
bintbattuta
Linaattalah
msameer
OlaShahba
Shad84
ahamzawi
AlisonLehr
mardinix
mzu3bi
amrwaked
kalnaga
statesecurity
maissan
Moznshabab6april
ziad_mohi
ahmadtarek
ArabVoicesSpeak
jalammar
redabanjar
SudaneseThinker
Wa7damasrya
Ramikantari
virtualactivism
mostafasiraj
AlMasryAlYoum_A
GVinarabic
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Arabista
beleidy
CirclesOwner
DannyRamadan
El_Amster
Hebaelcheikh
lubzi
mahagaber
Organica_
tariksalama
ahmednassefibayazidi
itsdgc
laithz
mmahdy78
RBallaa
sereneybeany
bassemsamir
negadelborai
Newsweek
AlMasryAlYoum_E
NazraEgypt
sarahspeakstome
NermineAmer
AmnestyAR
TEDataEgypt
alzaid
ammaribrahim
Sha3teely
ajbreakingnewsAJELive
AymanM
omarkhalifa
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melissakchan
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hamish6PM
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ioerror
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AlaaMubarak
ElAdly
TaherART
jrug
AlecJRoss
eliselabottcnn
emilydparker
ericschmidt
JaredCohen
jpalfrey
onwardcaro
PJCrowley
sarahmckoolking
StateDept
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AliAldari
anasqtiesh
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dutweets
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BreakingNews
bsebti
washingtonpost
OGT29
BabakDehghan
qubadjt
AmyMowa
GayMiddleEast
TheAliNasser
AlyMourad
M_ElMotasem
MostafaMourad
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ghazalairshad
TwiddleEastNews
CIHRS_Alerts
Mahmoud_Ezzat
RamyYaacoub
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andersoncooper
cnnbrk
democracynow
ANN0ULA
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InjiAmr
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nasry
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mikebutcher
SaeedCNN
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IvanCNN
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BBCBreaking
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mashable
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QueenRania
CrisisGroup
CFR_org
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BrookingsFP
CharactersEgypt
camanpour
cdibona
google
ElBaradei
fpleitgenCNN
RaniaAbdallah
demotix
naveenaqvi
omarfk
TechCrunch
jaberm
manikarthik
__yasserimadlahad
TaherElShafei
haaretzonline
hrw
Jan25voices
noaheverettwhitehouse
23
illu
str
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Ko
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-
Dubai / London / New York / Shanghai & Opening Soon: Abu Dhabi / Azerbaijan / Dubai / Frankfurt / Kuwait / Maldives
YOU AR E THE INSPIR ATION
JUMEIR AH HIMALAYAS HOTEL, SHANGHAI. NOW OPEN
STAY DIFFER ENT AT JUMEIR AH HOTELS & R ESORTS
FOR R ESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR TR AVEL PROFESSIONAL OR VISIT JUMEIR AH.COM
You are dif ferent.
Thats why Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts are opening new hotels around the world, inspired by your indiv idualit y.
Maldives Summer 2011
Frankfurt Fall 2011
Abu Dhabi Fall 2011
OPEN SKIES SHANGHAI-FPC.indd 1 4/20/11 10:00 AM
-
25
TWITTER PITCH
Revel in the natural beauty of the
wildlife from your lofty elephant seat
as these gentle giants amble through
the African bush.
www.twitter.com/addo_elephant
Every month we profile a number of venues in a different city. The catch? The companies must be on Twitter and must tell us in their own words what makes them so special. This month we feature Africas best safaris. If you want to get
involved, follow us at: www.twitter.com/openskiesmag
ker & downey
desert delta
Heritage safaris
AFRICAN
SAFARIS
elephantsafaris
Experience ora & fauna, desert
& delta at 7 luxury safari lodges in
Botswana; get up close & personal
with natures biggest personalities.
www.twitter.com/DesertDelta
The continents original safari
outtter takes luxury to a new level with
nostalgic safari experiences in Botswana
the jewel of Africa.
www.twitter.com/KerDowneyB
Offers you an authentic African
safari that will leave you inspired in
the Hluhluwe/Umfolozi reserve and
iSimangaliso Wetland Park.
www.twitter.com/heritagesafaris
Africas specialised safari operator for
game-drives, canoeing, rafting, Zambezi
cruises, lion encounters, elephant rides
& Victoria Falls tours.
www.twitter.com/HASafaris
habitat afrika
safaris
OS03_033-033_TwitterPitch.indd 25 4/18/11 7:38:08 PM
Dubai / London / New York / Shanghai & Opening Soon: Abu Dhabi / Azerbaijan / Dubai / Frankfurt / Kuwait / Maldives
YOU AR E THE INSPIR ATION
JUMEIR AH HIMALAYAS HOTEL, SHANGHAI. NOW OPEN
STAY DIFFER ENT AT JUMEIR AH HOTELS & R ESORTS
FOR R ESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR TR AVEL PROFESSIONAL OR VISIT JUMEIR AH.COM
You are dif ferent.
Thats why Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts are opening new hotels around the world, inspired by your indiv idualit y.
Maldives Summer 2011
Frankfurt Fall 2011
Abu Dhabi Fall 2011
OPEN SKIES SHANGHAI-FPC.indd 1 4/20/11 10:00 AM
-
Australia . . . . . . . . . +61 2 8337 2791Fiji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +679 672 2755Guam. . . . . . . . . . . . +1671 646 6555India . . . . . . . . . . . +91 11 2506 1567Jordan . . . . . . . . . . +962 6 5684 771Kuwait . . . . . . . . . . . +965 2473 5419
Lebanon. . . . . . . . . . . +961 1510 100Libya. . . . . . . . . . . +218 21 3332 230Morocco. . . . . . . . +212 522 540 022New Caledonia . . . . . +687 27 27 30New Zealand . . . . . . +643 359 2721Oman . . . . . . +968 2448 9248/9648
Papua New Guinea +1675 32 32333Qatar. . . . . . . . . . . . . +974 4666 655Seychelles. . . . . . . . . . +248 225 862Turkey. . . . . . . . . . +90 212 465 3156UAE Dubai . . . . . . . +971 4 224 5404UAE Abu Dhabi . . . +971 2 599 8989
For a complete list of worldwide destinations, please visit thrifty.com
2011 A licensee of Thrifty Rent-A-Car System, Inc.. All rights reserved.
Thrifty Locations:
Earn 500 Skywards Miles per rental at all Thrifty locations
17613 Emirates Inflight copy 3/9/11 8:46 AM Page 1
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27
BOOKED
CHINUA ACHEBE A MAN OF THE PEOPLE
Chinua Achebe is one of the greats of African literature, and this is one of his finest moments. Set in an unnamed, newly
independent African country, A Man Of The People tells the tale of a village teacher (Odili) who takes on
a corrupt Culture Minister (Chief
Nanga). Published in 1966, it was
eerily prescient of events in Achebes
Nigeria, yet its the characters he
creates that are compelling. In Chief
Nanga, Achebe projects the ultimate
African Strong Man, a blustering,
corrupt politician who does not
hesitate to use violence to tackle
Odilis attempts to usurp him.
Achebe uses humour to tackle what is
a tragic subject: the inability of post-
colonial African countries to govern
themselves. Odili is the educated
youth who believes in ideals, until he
needs to get even with Chief Nanga.
The message here is bleak, and
although not set in Nigeria, the coup
that saw that countrys ruler ousted
took place only a few months after
A Man Of The People was released. Achebe took no pleasure in this, and,
ultimately, there are no heroes in this
book, but products of an environment
tainted by deceit. Rich and vibrant,
Achebe paints a compelling, if tragic,
picture of an Africa coming to terms
with its independence. Penguin, 1966
THE DADDY LONG LEGS CAPE TOWN
suite
Ninety minutes from Cape Towns
city centre, the Old Mac Daddy
Luxury Trailer Park is a piece of finely-
tuned kitsch. Situated on the edge of a
working apple farm, the hotel consists
of 12 vintage Airstream trailers, each
with its own tongue-in-cheek designer
interior. We stayed in The Dirkie
Sanchez Suite, a wrestling-inspired
room complete with dress-up outfits,
and The Private Life of Plants, a
botany-themed haven for calm
reflection decorated with eco-friendly
paints and natural fabrics. If you get
tired of the view from your hideaway,
you can stroll down to the lake, take
a dip in the pool or rent a mountain
bike. The Elgin area also offers hiking
trails and quad-biking. While the
hipper-than-thou suites and the rural
setting might seem a bit bizarre,
Daddy Long Legs pulls it off just.
INTERNET SPEED: None in room,
100Kbps in common area
PILLOWS: EightENGLISH TV CHANNELS: No TV in room, 94 channels in common area
IPOD DOCK: NoROOM SERVICE: No, rate includes continental breakfast in restaurant
COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS: Tea, instant coffee, milk, sugar
TOILETRY BRAND: MoyaDAILY NEWSPAPER: NoneEXTRAS: Mini-bar, iron and board, babysitting services
BUSINESS CENTRE: NoVIEW: 3.5/5RATE: $98 per night
WWW.DADDYLONGLEGS.CO.ZA
THE DIRKIE SANCHEZ
WO
RD
S: G
AB
Y ST
AD
LER
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WWW.HG2.COM
JOHANNESBURG
MAPPED
28 29
Full to bursting with the spirit of Afropolitanism,
Jozi, as its know locally, is an electric,
multicultural hodgepodge. It once had the
dubious distinction of being one of the worlds
most dangerous places, but today Africas
wealthiest city is transforming rapidly, shedding
its hostile skin and setting the tone for upward
mobility in a country thats growing up fast.
Here youre always aware of the paradoxes and
contrasts: Victorian and Edwardian mansions
in gentrified old money suburbs; shantytowns
and new wealth in sprawling Soweto; slick glass
and chrome high-rises in Sandtons economic
powerhouse; and in the city centre, large-scale
reinvestment is steering the process of urban
rebirth after years of neglect. Hg2s Keith Bain
picks a handful of old, new and buzzworthy
places to sample the effervescent energy of
South Africas financial epicentre.
HOTELS1. Ilali Guesthouse 2. The Peech 3. The Winston 4. The Westcliff
RESTAURANTS. DW Eleven-13 6. Gramdoelas 7. Il Giardino Degli Ulivi 8. Thomas Maxwell Kitchen
OS03_036-038_Mapped2.indd 28 4/21/11 4:59:50 PM
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WWW.HG2.COM
JOHANNESBURG
MAPPED
28 29
Full to bursting with the spirit of Afropolitanism,
Jozi, as its know locally, is an electric,
multicultural hodgepodge. It once had the
dubious distinction of being one of the worlds
most dangerous places, but today Africas
wealthiest city is transforming rapidly, shedding
its hostile skin and setting the tone for upward
mobility in a country thats growing up fast.
Here youre always aware of the paradoxes and
contrasts: Victorian and Edwardian mansions
in gentrified old money suburbs; shantytowns
and new wealth in sprawling Soweto; slick glass
and chrome high-rises in Sandtons economic
powerhouse; and in the city centre, large-scale
reinvestment is steering the process of urban
rebirth after years of neglect. Hg2s Keith Bain
picks a handful of old, new and buzzworthy
places to sample the effervescent energy of
South Africas financial epicentre.
HOTELS1. Ilali Guesthouse 2. The Peech 3. The Winston 4. The Westcliff
RESTAURANTS. DW Eleven-13 6. Gramdoelas 7. Il Giardino Degli Ulivi 8. Thomas Maxwell Kitchen
OS03_036-038_Mapped2.indd 28 4/21/11 4:59:50 PM
JOHANNESBURG
28 29
BARS / CLUBS9. The Circle Bar 10. Randloards 11. Tokyo Star 12. Taboo
GALLERIES13. Arts on Main 14. Goodman Gallery 15. Everard Read Gallery 16. Johannesburg Art Gallery
OS03_036-038_Mapped2.indd 29 4/21/11 4:59:53 PM
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30
HOTELS 1 ILALI GUESTHOUSE
Hidden behind an anonymous wall, this 1940s suburban home has been painstakingly reinvented as a five-bedroom guesthouse showcasing the best of South African design.
2 THE PEECH Urbane, hip and edgy, with a seamless blend of Afro-centric design influence and contemporary smarts. The Peechs location in leafy, upmarket Melrose brings a certain respite from the citys madness.
3 THE WINSTON Heralding a new generation of eye-catching and imaginatively-outtted business lodgings. The themed suites are decked out in nostalgic visual allusions to South Africas chequered past.
4 THE WESTCLIFF Iconic, old school, and handsome, Joburgs elegant grande dame clings to a steep hillside in upmarket Westcliff. The postcolonial savoir faire extends into the plush, expansive suites.
RESTAURANTS
GALLERIES
BARS/CLUBS
30
MAPPEDJOHANNESBURG
5 DW ELEVEN-13 Mercifully sheltered from the dreary parking lot outside, this upmarket bistro excels at taste-centric dining. Snappy, on-the-ball service and a robust clientele create a buzzing atmosphere.
9 THE CIRCLE BAR Spilling off the vast lobby of The Rosebank Crowne Plaza, the circles in question are lounging pods with wraparound walls fashioned from glass beads. Cocktails are extravagant and edgy.
14 GOODMAN GALLERY Here youre privy to a dynamic line-up of works by significant contemporary artists. A veritable whos who of South African creative talent, matched by mind-boggling price tags.
15 EVERARD READ GALLERY A real institution, dating back almost a century, its probably the most established (and biggest) commercial gallery in the country, showing great sculptures and canvases at astronomical prices.
16 JOHANNESBURG ART GALLERY A national monument designed by Sir Edwin Luytens, this was Johannesburgs first gallery and it still manages to impress. Iconic works rub shoulders with international exhibitions of significance.
13 ARTS ON MAIN A mix of galleries and design spaces occupying a converted industrial precinct. World-renowned artist-showman William Kentridge has studios here, and the eatery is haunted by creative types.
10 RANDLORDS This fashionable rooftop bar in Braamfontein is ultra-exclusive. The tapas and cocktails are almost as sublime as the setting. A dedicated elevator takes you from street level to this high-altitude refuge.
11 TOKYO STAR All grown up, but still proffering the same sense of abandon it cultivated in its old Melville location, Tokyo Star harbours a slick crowd amidst dcor (not surprisingly) inspired by Japanese culture.
12 TABOO The sinful side of hedonism is on tap at this upmarket multi-level venue. The laws of conspicuous consumption (and merciless bouncers) demand you dress for success to party here.
6 GRAMADOELAS Set in the Newtown cultural precinct, Gramadoelas offers a chance to sample some of the more exotic tastes of South Africa, including crocodile steaks and mopani worms.
7 IL GIARDINO DEGLI ULIVI Wood-burning ovens churn out ultra-thin, handmade pizzas and pasta for laid-back locals in a courtyard full of olive trees. This is amongst Joburgs most charming dining experiences.
8 THOMAS MAXWELL BISTRO Exposed brick walls and vintage furniture create an unassuming atmosphere at this bistro, bursting with French-inspired culinary excellence. The owner-chef has a loyal fan base and will win you over, too.
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33
CELLULOID DISSECTED
of Egypt, long a dominant force in
African cinema, it was a Hollywood-
style mogul who gave the film
industry its impetus. Talaat Harb
was the closest Africa ever came to a
David O Selznick. The founder of the
Bank Of Egypt, Harbs love of film
led him to dedicate time and, more
importantly, funds to the creation
of an Egyptian studio system. The
upshot of this generosity was a
golden age that spanned the 1940s
and 1950s and produced such
classics as Ana Horra, a picture still celebrated in world cinema circles
for its daring feminist standpoint.
Since the highs of the post-
war period, Egypts cinema has
undergone many changes. At one
point in the hands of the state
(the Nasser regime took control
of the industry after it embraced
socialism), Egyptian films now
tend to be produced by private
individuals. Eras of government
control and entrepreneurial
investment also account for the
ways in which films are financed in
most other parts of the continent. So
if it seems a certain nations turned
its back on cinema, it might have as
much to do with dictatorial whims
as access to adequate funding.
A shortage of money certainly
isnt a problem in modern-day South
Africa. Having produced the most
internationally successful African
movie of the last century, race
comedy The Gods Must Be Crazy, todays new attitudes, together
with the emergence of fresh talent,
has made the country a small but
significant cinematic power. It says
everything for the state of South
African film that any list of great
modern crime and sci-fi movies
would be incomplete without
mention of Bronwen Hughes
Stander and Neill Blomkamps District 9. And as for modern social dramas, few have eclipsed Gavin
Hoods Tsotsi, a film about Soweto slum life that won the 2006 Oscar
for Best Foreign Language Film.
That the success of Hood and co
hasnt gone unnoticed by Hollywood
could, alas, spell trouble for African
film. For having already mined the
continent for its exotic reputation,
the American studio behemoth is
now busy capturing its most vibrant
talent. But as it has with most
everything else, Africa has always
found a way to make films.
And if its best and brightest are
lured overseas, whos to say the
continent mightnt produce a new
generation of film-makers to beguile
us all over again.
toCape Town WHY AFRICAN CINEMA IS
THROWING OFF THE
SHACKLES OF ITS HOLLYWOOD
HISTORY
BY RICHARD LUCK
OS03_032-033_Flick.indd 33 4/21/11 11:17:33 AM
32
FLICKCELLULOID DISSECTED
Dense jungles, man-eating animals, spear-waving natives if all you knew about Africa was what youd seen
in Hollywood films, youd think the
place was as inhospitable as it was
interesting. The home of Tarzan and
his apes, the Dark Continent seems
a place best enjoyed while clutching
a box of popcorn from the comfort
of seat 2K.
Of course, the hardships of
African life meant that many
an old American movie made do
with the studio back lot and stock
footage. And on the rare occasions
productions did venture overseas,
the experiences of the lily-livered
cast and crew members simply
confirmed what Hollywoods
movies had long suggested about
the dangers of Africa. Take
Katharine Hepburn, who like
virtually everyone else involved in
making The African Queen, went down with dysentery when she
ignored warnings about the local
water. If only shed followed co-
star Humphrey Bogarts example
and drunk nothing but whiskey
throughout the shoot.
Come the 21st century, and
American studios were a bit braver
about shooting on African soil. Take
Edward Zwicks Blood Diamond a thriller about a frighteningly real
problem, this Leonardo DiCaprio
vehicle was filmed almost entirely
in South Africa and Mozambique.
For the most part, though, Africa
remains a no-go zone for major
Hollywood productions. Which is
no bad thing, for in the absence of
American investment, an African
film industry has sprung up that is
as vibrant as it is diverse.
From Cairo to Cape Town, Africas
film industry encompasses the
entire continent. Of course, some
nations are more prolific than
others, what with the need to
make ends meet often eclipsing
the desire for entertainment.
However, it would be wrong to think
that African cinema is solely the
province of Westernised nations
such as South Africa.
Djibril Diop Mambtys sublime
Hynes came out of Senegal. A charming comedy-drama about a
wealthy woman who returns to her
impoverished hometown, Hynes accomplishes the amazing feat of
being authentically African while
tapping the spirit of some classic
British comedies.
But how does a continent that can
have trouble feeding itself find the
money to make movies? In the case
From CairotoCape Town
OS03_032-033_Flick.indd 32 4/21/11 11:17:33 AM
-
33
CELLULOID DISSECTED
of Egypt, long a dominant force in
African cinema, it was a Hollywood-
style mogul who gave the film
industry its impetus. Talaat Harb
was the closest Africa ever came to a
David O Selznick. The founder of the
Bank Of Egypt, Harbs love of film
led him to dedicate time and, more
importantly, funds to the creation
of an Egyptian studio system. The
upshot of this generosity was a
golden age that spanned the 1940s
and 1950s and produced such
classics as Ana Horra, a picture still celebrated in world cinema circles
for its daring feminist standpoint.
Since the highs of the post-
war period, Egypts cinema has
undergone many changes. At one
point in the hands of the state
(the Nasser regime took control
of the industry after it embraced
socialism), Egyptian films now
tend to be produced by private
individuals. Eras of government
control and entrepreneurial
investment also account for the
ways in which films are financed in
most other parts of the continent. So
if it seems a certain nations turned
its back on cinema, it might have as
much to do with dictatorial whims
as access to adequate funding.
A shortage of money certainly
isnt a problem in modern-day South
Africa. Having produced the most
internationally successful African
movie of the last century, race
comedy The Gods Must Be Crazy, todays new attitudes, together
with the emergence of fresh talent,
has made the country a small but
significant cinematic power. It says
everything for the state of South
African film that any list of great
modern crime and sci-fi movies
would be incomplete without
mention of Bronwen Hughes
Stander and Neill Blomkamps District 9. And as for modern social dramas, few have eclipsed Gavin
Hoods Tsotsi, a film about Soweto slum life that won the 2006 Oscar
for Best Foreign Language Film.
That the success of Hood and co
hasnt gone unnoticed by Hollywood
could, alas, spell trouble for African
film. For having already mined the
continent for its exotic reputation,
the American studio behemoth is
now busy capturing its most vibrant
talent. But as it has with most
everything else, Africa has always
found a way to make films.
And if its best and brightest are
lured overseas, whos to say the
continent mightnt produce a new
generation of film-makers to beguile
us all over again.
toCape Town WHY AFRICAN CINEMA IS
THROWING OFF THE
SHACKLES OF ITS HOLLYWOOD
HISTORY
BY RICHARD LUCK
OS03_032-033_Flick.indd 33 4/21/11 11:17:33 AM
-
SEUN KUTI, SON OF THE LEGENDARY FELA KUTI, GIVES US HIS PLAYLIST WWW.MYSPACE.COM/SEUNKUTI
SKYPOD
FELA KUTI LOOK & LAUGHEvery time I hear this I quit music
for two weeks its that good.
2PAC ALL EYEZ ON METhats how I am feeling right now.
ALBOROSIE RODIGAI listened to this tune on my flight
to Australia, which was also my first
Emirates flight and my first time on
the Airbus A380.
50 CENT IN DA CLUBWhen I was studying in
Liverpool, I used to hear
this everywhere.
34
OS03_042-043_Skypod.indd 34 4/18/11 8:11:26 PM
-
SEUN KUTI, SON OF THE LEGENDARY FELA KUTI, GIVES US HIS PLAYLIST WWW.MYSPACE.COM/SEUNKUTI
SKYPOD
FELA KUTI LOOK & LAUGHEvery time I hear this I quit music
for two weeks its that good.
2PAC ALL EYEZ ON METhats how I am feeling right now.
ALBOROSIE RODIGAI listened to this tune on my flight
to Australia, which was also my first
Emirates flight and my first time on
the Airbus A380.
50 CENT IN DA CLUBWhen I was studying in
Liverpool, I used to hear
this everywhere.
34
OS03_042-043_Skypod.indd 34 4/18/11 8:11:26 PM
35
SEUN KUTI, SON OF THE LEGENDARY FELA KUTI, GIVES US HIS PLAYLIST WWW.MYSPACE.COM/SEUNKUTI
RANDY NEWMAN ITS A JUNGLE OUT THERE This is the theme from The
Monk TV show. Its also how
I really feel about the West.
PETER TOSH LEGALISE ITA reggae beat that really
chills me out.
THE SUPREMES BABY LOVEFor me, this song is all
about two lovers re-uniting.
SEUN KUTI YOU CAN RUNThe best horn arrangement of
the past 20 years.
STEVIE WONDER SUPERSTITIONThis song typifies
the African mindset.
THE SUPREMES BABY LOVEFor me, this song is all
about two lovers re-uniting. about two lovers re-uniting.
35
OS03_042-043_Skypod.indd 35 4/18/11 8:11:28 PM
-
37
LOCAL VOICES
With a massive 64 per cent of the worlds total Arab population and 45 per cent of the Arab League housed on the African continent, its no surprise how deep the relationship between my ancestral homeland and Africa runs. The traditional dhows of the Persian Gulf, their white curved sails contrasting with the light, bright blue of the Arabian sea, carried sailors, pearl divers and fishermen and were mostly manned by African crews.
In fact, much of the music and folk dances of the Arab world can be traced back to Africa. In the Maghreb region, Stambali and Gnawa music clearly display West African influences. The Liwa performed in the UAE, the Mizmar in Saudi Arabia, the Fann Al Tanbbura heard in Bahrain, Kuwait and Oman these are all
East African contributions to the heritage of the Persian Gulf.
Africa has as far back as pre-Islamic times provided us with many of our pioneering heroes. Long before the world was introduced to Shakespeares Othello there was the great sage Antar Ibn Shaddad, the son of an African mother, who climbed the tribal ladder of society through his brilliance as a fearsome warrior on the battlefield, and off it as a legendary poet. Antar was the first person in the Arab world to render the colour of ones skin irrelevant.
Bilal Bin Rabah was the first black African slave to convert to Islam. His bravery in embracing what was then a dangerous and revolutionary concept made him an easy target for his master, who wished to make an example of him. Abu Baker Al Sidiq, one of the companions of the Prophet
ARABIA HAS LONG LOOKED FOR INSIGHT
OUT OF AFRICA
THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN AFRICA AND THE GULF
IS DEEP AND ENDURING SAYS WAEL AL SAYEGH
ILLU
STRA
TIO
N B
Y VE
SNA
PES
IC
OS03_037-039_Column.indd 37 4/18/11 9:05:15 PM
-
38
Mohammed (PBUH), financed his purchase from this cruel owner and liberated him to become not only Islams first free black African Muslim, but also Islams first ever Muathin.
Al Jahith, a medieval Islamic Afro-Arab scholar, described by the Middle East scholar and historian Bernard Lewis as one of the greatest prose writers of classic literature, is another example. It is said he wrote more than 350 books in his lifetime.
covering topics as diverse as zoology, biology, philosophy, Islamic psychology and literature. Islamic historians often cite Al Jahith as an example of how Islam has contributed to the intellectual development of mankind.
Perhaps the greatest gift Africa ever gave Arabia was the provision of much-needed refuge and shelter to the most important asset to emerge from the Arab world. When the Prophet Mohammed first started spreading his message
to worship only one God, the God of Moses, Abraham and Jesus, the Quarshi tribes of Mecca, who were staunchly pagan at the time, aggressively fought against him and anyone who associated or even sympathised with his cause. They made life for the early Muslims so unbearable that the Prophet Mohammed felt it necessary to send a delegation, led by his cousin, Jaffar Al Tayyer, out of the country. It was in Ethiopia (then Abyssinia), led by
A man of many talents, Imhotep is considered to be the rst architect, engineer and doctor in early history. Which made him quite intelligent, we reckon. Sort of like an ancient Egyptian version of Bill Gates, Frank Gehry and Dr Phil. OK, well the rst two at least.
An easy inclusion, but we make no apologies. A former freedom ghter, Nelson Mandela has matured into one of the worlds great statesmen. He also has to put up with frequent visits from Bono; and for that alone he deserves all our praise. History will judge him well.
Botswanas rst president, Seretse Khama showed it was possible for an African leader to be competent, honest and progressive. Under his tutelage, Botswana emerged as a model post-colonial African state and a beacon of hope to Africans across the continent.
A writer, poet and playwright, Wole Soyinka won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1986. The Nigerians work oozed compassion, wit and intelligence, and paved the way for a generation of writers. He has left a lasting literary legacy. Search out his work and discover a true great.
2655BC 1918 1921 1934
A BRIEF HISTORY OF AFRICAN ICONS
OS03_037-039_Column.indd 38 4/18/11 9:05:27 PM
39
LOCAL VOICES
its Christian king, Negus Ashama Ibn Abjar, that Islam first received a dignified space to be practised freely without persecution. I find the failure of most of todays extreme-minded religious groups to mention this fact in any of their sermons rather interesting.
One need not look only at early history to see the Afro-Arab connection. At the gala evening event of the recently concluded Emirates Airline International Festival of Literature, the Nigerian
poet, playwright and author Wole Soyinka the first ever black African to win the Nobel Prize for Literature described the current unrest spread across the Arab World as irreversible change, and went on to compare the Arab peoples struggle for freedom with what many post-colonial Africans had to go through. It seems that whatever time in history we study, Africa and Arabia seem to understand one another at a level that goes beyond the superficial.
Finally, there is my very own connection to Africa. At a time when my life was at a crossroads between acceptance of a traditional role in society or the choice of an exciting yet arduous path, the blood-red sands of South Africa granted me one of its daughters as a partner. That scion of Africa has borne three children, whose dark eyes display the soul of Arabia and whose hearts beat with the song of strength that will always be Africa.
A musical pioneer (he invented the Afro-Beat genre), a maverick and a committed activist, if anyone embodied the condence of 1970s Africa it was Fela Kuti. Charismatic, vain, trou-bled and brilliant, Kuti is up there with legends such as Marvin Gaye and Bob Marley.
An anti-Apartheid activist who died in police custody in 1977, Stephen Bikos activism and writing inspires millions around the world to this day. His efforts to empower a generation of black Africans largely worked. An uplifting, yet tragic life; a profound legacy.
King of the Road, Haile Gebrselassie is regarded the greatest distance runner in history. As a boy, he ran a daily 20km roundtrip to school, which explains his run-ning posture: he looks as if he is holding an invisible stack of books. A sporting icon and a nice guy to boot.
Seyi Oyesola is the least famous of our icons, but millions may be saved by his invention. This Nigerian doctor invented the Hospital Box, which runs off solar energy and is completely mobile. The face of modern Africa: inventive, smart, brave and compassionate.
1938 1946 1973 1980
OS03_037-039_Column.indd 39 4/18/11 9:05:41 PM
-
38
Mohammed (PBUH), financed his purchase from this cruel owner and liberated him to become not only Islams first free black African Muslim, but also Islams first ever Muathin.
Al Jahith, a medieval Islamic Afro-Arab scholar, described by the Middle East scholar and historian Bernard Lewis as one of the greatest prose writers of classic literature, is another example. It is said he wrote more than 350 books in his lifetime.
covering topics as diverse as zoology, biology, philosophy, Islamic psychology and literature. Islamic historians often cite Al Jahith as an example of how Islam has contributed to the intellectual development of mankind.
Perhaps the greatest gift Africa ever gave Arabia was the provision of much-needed refuge and shelter to the most important asset to emerge from the Arab world. When the Prophet Mohammed first started spreading his message
to worship only one God, the God of Moses, Abraham and Jesus, the Quarshi tribes of Mecca, who were staunchly pagan at the time, aggressively fought against him and anyone who associated or even sympathised with his cause. They made life for the early Muslims so unbearable that the Prophet Mohammed felt it necessary to send a delegation, led by his cousin, Jaffar Al Tayyer, out of the country. It was in Ethiopia (then Abyssinia), led by
A man of many talents, Imhotep is considered to be the rst architect, engineer and doctor in early history. Which made him quite intelligent, we reckon. Sort of like an ancient Egyptian version of Bill Gates, Frank Gehry and Dr Phil. OK, well the rst two at least.
An easy inclusion, but we make no apologies. A former freedom ghter, Nelson Mandela has matured into one of the worlds great statesmen. He also has to put up with frequent visits from Bono; and for that alone he deserves all our praise. History will judge him well.
Botswanas rst president, Seretse Khama showed it was possible for an African leader to be competent, honest and progressive. Under his tutelage, Botswana emerged as a model post-colonial African state and a beacon of hope to Africans across the continent.
A writer, poet and playwright, Wole Soyinka won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1986. The Nigerians work oozed compassion, wit and intelligence, and paved the way for a generation of writers. He has left a lasting literary legacy. Search out his work and discover a true great.
2655BC 1918 1921 1934
A BRIEF HISTORY OF AFRICAN ICONS
OS03_037-039_Column.indd 38 4/18/11 9:05:27 PM
39
LOCAL VOICES
its Christian king, Negus Ashama Ibn Abjar, that Islam first received a dignified space to be practised freely without persecution. I find the failure of most of todays extreme-minded religious groups to mention this fact in any of their sermons rather interesting.
One need not look only at early history to see the Afro-Arab connection. At the gala evening event of the recently concluded Emirates Airline International Festival of Literature, the Nigerian
poet, playwright and author Wole Soyinka the first ever black African to win the Nobel Prize for Literature described the current unrest spread across the Arab World as irreversible change, and went on to compare the Arab peoples struggle for freedom with what many post-colonial Africans had to go through. It seems that whatever time in history we study, Africa and Arabia seem to understand one another at a level that goes beyond the superficial.
Finally, there is my very own connection to Africa. At a time when my life was at a crossroads between acceptance of a traditional role in society or the choice of an exciting yet arduous path, the blood-red sands of South Africa granted me one of its daughters as a partner. That scion of Africa has borne three children, whose dark eyes display the soul of Arabia and whose hearts beat with the song of strength that will always be Africa.
A musical pioneer (he invented the Afro-Beat genre), a maverick and a committed activist, if anyone embodied the condence of 1970s Africa it was Fela Kuti. Charismatic, vain, trou-bled and brilliant, Kuti is up there with legends such as Marvin Gaye and Bob Marley.
An anti-Apartheid activist who died in police custody in 1977, Stephen Bikos activism and writing inspires millions around the world to this day. His efforts to empower a generation of black Africans largely worked. An uplifting, yet tragic life; a profound legacy.
King of the Road, Haile Gebrselassie is regarded the greatest distance runner in history. As a boy, he ran a daily 20km roundtrip to school, which explains his run-ning posture: he looks as if he is holding an invisible stack of books. A sporting icon and a nice guy to boot.
Seyi Oyesola is the least famous of our icons, but millions may be saved by his invention. This Nigerian doctor invented the Hospital Box, which runs off solar energy and is completely mobile. The face of modern Africa: inventive, smart, brave and compassionate.
1938 1946 1973 1980
OS03_037-039_Column.indd 39 4/18/11 9:05:41 PM
-
40
INTERVIEW
MYTRAVELLED LIFE DJIMON HOUNSOU, 47, ACTOR
ON NEW PLACES
Im always on the move that seems to
have been the case ever since I left Benin at
13. I've seen a lot of the world, rst as a model
then later as an actor. Whenever I arrive some-
where I haven't been before I usually visit a
caf near the hotel, where the locals hangout,
and ask them what I should see and where I
should go. Its the best way of familiarising
yourself with a new place.
ON BENIN
Being an American citizen makes life so
much easier, especially when you spend so
much time travelling. But its also something
Im very proud of I love the country and
the life its allowed me to live. But I would
never turn my back on Benin. Im very
proud of being African and have no intention
of giving up my citizenship.
ON EMIGRATING
Moving to Paris when I was 13 was like visiting
another planet. There I was, in this stunningly
beautiful city, but I was sleeping on benches
or under bridges. As for moving to America,
Western cities are alike, or, at least, thats how
it seems to me, so by the time I felt at home
in Paris, I felt I could take the US in my stride.
ON BEING AFRICANI spend less and less time in Benin, but my
memories of the place grow more and more
intense. A friend of mine once said that
Africa is a state of mind you always carry
with you, which I think is true. But the conti-
nent retains an extraordinary pull over those
who are born there, so however long I might
be away, I know I'll always return to Benin.
ON HOLLYWOODHollywoods perspective of Africa is
dominated by bare-chested women, men
in loin cloths, man-eating lions all thats
missing is Tarzan. Things are changing,
though. My dream is to bring to the worlds
attention the great Africans who have made
the continent what it is today and what it
might become in the future.
ON PREPARATIONI never prepare the same way twice. With
The Tempest, where I play Caliban, it was all
about becoming familiar with the text and
intense rehearsal. But with Gladiator, hitting
the gym and getting to know Russell Crowe
were the keys to the part. We became very
good friends, Russell and I. He used to call
me the Chocolate Prince, which always
made me laugh.
OS03_040-040_Skycats.indd 40 4/20/11 5:00:35 PM
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40
INTERVIEW
MYTRAVELLED LIFE DJIMON HOUNSOU, 47, ACTOR
ON NEW PLACES
Im always on the move that seems to
have been the case ever since I left Benin at
13. I've seen a lot of the world, rst as a model
then later as an actor. Whenever I arrive some-
where I haven't been before I usually visit a
caf near the hotel, where the locals hangout,
and ask them what I should see and where I
should go. Its the best way of familiarising
yourself with a new place.
ON BENIN
Being an American citizen makes life so
much easier, especially when you spend so
much time travelling. But its also something
Im very proud of I love the country and
the life its allowed me to live. But I would
never turn my back on Benin. Im very
proud of being African and have no intention
of giving up my citizenship.
ON EMIGRATING
Moving to Paris when I was 13 was like visiting
another planet. There I was, in this stunningly
beautiful city, but I was sleeping on benches
or under bridges. As for moving to America,
Western cities are alike, or, at least, thats how
it seems to me, so by the time I felt at home
in Paris, I felt I could take the US in my stride.
ON BEING AFRICANI spend less and less time in Benin, but my
memories of the place grow more and more
intense. A friend of mine once said that
Africa is a state of mind you always carry
with you, which I think is true. But the conti-
nent retains an extraordinary pull over those
who are born there, so however long I might
be away, I know I'll always return to Benin.
ON HOLLYWOODHollywoods perspective of Africa is
dominated by bare-chested women, men
in loin cloths, man-eating lions all thats
missing is Tarzan. Things are changing,
though. My dream is to bring to the worlds
attention the great Africans who have made
the continent what it is today and what it
might become in the future.
ON PREPARATIONI never prepare the same way twice. With
The Tempest, where I play Caliban, it was all
about becoming familiar with the text and
intense rehearsal. But with Gladiator, hitting
the gym and getting to know Russell Crowe
were the keys to the part. We became very
good friends, Russell and I. He used to call
me the Chocolate Prince, which always
made me laugh.
OS03_040-040_Skycats.indd 40 4/20/11 5:00:35 PM
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42
STREET PEEP ERMILAN WWW.STREETPEEPER.COM
VALENTINA
ILARDI-MARTIN
TV PRESENTER
Isabel Marant boots
Jil Sander bag
PHOTOGRAPHER
WRITER
Christian Dior coat
Prada dress
Azzedine Alaa boots
ELENA SANTARELLI
TV PRESENTER
Missoni dress
Chanel bag
Casadei boots
OS03_042-043_StreetPeeper.indd 42 4/18/11 8:46:37 PM
43
MILAN WWW.STREETPEEPER.COM
UNKNOWN
FASHION EDITOR
VOGUE NIPPON
Jil Sander suit
Jil Sander trousers
Prada shoes
BLOGGER, THE
BLONDE SALAD
Chanel sunglasses
Furla bag
American Apparel skirt
Jeffrey Campbell shoes
ELISA NALIN
JEWELLERY DESIGNER
AND CONSULTANT
Rue du Mail jacket
Vintage blouse
Dries Van Noten trousers
Pierry Hardy shoes
Vintage bag
OS03_042-043_StreetPeeper.indd 43 4/18/11 8:47:20 PM
-
42
STREET PEEP ERMILAN WWW.STREETPEEPER.COM
VALENTINA
ILARDI-MARTIN
TV PRESENTER
Isabel Marant boots
Jil Sander bag
PHOTOGRAPHER
WRITER
Christian Dior coat
Prada dress
Azzedine Alaa boots
ELENA SANTARELLI
TV PRESENTER
Missoni dress
Chanel bag
Casadei boots
OS03_042-043_StreetPeeper.indd 42 4/18/11 8:46:37 PM
43
MILAN WWW.STREETPEEPER.COM
UNKNOWN
FASHION EDITOR
VOGUE NIPPON
Jil Sander suit
Jil Sander trousers
Prada shoes
BLOGGER, THE
BLONDE SALAD
Chanel sunglasses
Furla bag
American Apparel skirt
Jeffrey Campbell shoes
ELISA NALIN
JEWELLERY DESIGNER
AND CONSULTANT
Rue du Mail jacket
Vintage blouse
Dries Van Noten trousers
Pierry Hardy shoes
Vintage bag
OS03_042-043_StreetPeeper.indd 43 4/18/11 8:47:20 PM
-
44
ARCHITECTURE MAPPED FIAT TAGLIERO SERVICE STATION
PLACE
IMA
GE:
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AFF
ORG
UE
WW
W.E
RIC
LAFO
RGU
E.C
OM
OS03_044-045_Place.indd 44 4/18/11 8:55:37 PM
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45
ARCHITECTURE MAPPED FIAT TAGLIERO SERVICE STATION
IMA
GE:
ER
IC L
AFF
ORG
UE
WW
W.E
RIC
LAFO
RGU
E.C
OM
OS03_044-045_Place.indd 45 4/18/11 8:55:53 PM
44
ARCHITECTURE MAPPED FIAT TAGLIERO SERVICE STATION
PLACEIM
AG
E: E
RIC
LA
FFO
RGU
E W
WW
.ER
ICLA
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CO
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OS03_044-045_Place.indd 44 4/18/11 8:55:37 PM
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46
URBAN CARTOGRAPHY LORIENTALISTECAIRO ANTIQUES
STORE
Walking into LOrientaliste antique bookshop in downtown Cairo feels like stepping into the pages of an Egyptian
Harry Potter novel. Spread out over three cramped floors, the shelves are stuffed
with colourful, leather-bound tomes with
such intriguing titles as Arabian Time Machine, The Nile Quest, and La Creation de LHomme. Old drawings of scenes from Egypt are strewn around the walls, and
500-year-old maps chart territories as far
afield as Nubia, Mesopotamia and Spain.
The sh