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A trek to the Baltoro glacier in Pakistan Ever considered travelling to northern Pakistan? Go on a trek to the Karakoram (K2) Base Camp and take in the sights of the stunning Baltoro glacier After eight days of wiping sweat off my brows, I finally reached Concordia, a bleak collection of tents in the Karakoram. I was hoping for a life-defining view of K2, the remote, savage, second highest peak on the planet. Instead I encountered an uncaring, enveloping cloud and a frosty wind. The rocks on the glacier were too cold to sit on, but neither our porters nor our tents were visible. So, with the crack and rumble from avalanches on 8,000m peaks hidden by clouds, I waited. The odds were against a trek to K2 Base Camp. As a US citizen, I expected to circumvent Pakistan’s mortal fear of an Indian walking around on the wrong side of the Siachen Glacier. However, after SEAL Team Six dispatched Abbottabad’s infamous resident in 2011, US citizens applying for visas were being treated with even more suspicion. There were logistical deterrents to the trip too—a notoriously unpredictable 45-minute flight from Islamabad to Skardu, having a jeep on standby for the 20-hour road journey instead, and finding a trustworthy team of porters who would be our only source of food, water and safety for two weeks. There were also crucial psychological deterrents: was it safe to travel to northern Pakistan? Could I really

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A trek to the Baltoro glacier in PakistanEver considered travelling to northern Pakistan? Go on a trek to the Karakoram (K2) Base Camp and take in the sights of the stunning Baltoro glacierAfter eight das of !iping s!eat off m "ro!s# $ finall reached Concordia# a "leak collection of tents in the Karakoram% $ !as hoping for a life&defining vie! of K2# the remote# savage# second highest peak on the planet% $nstead $ encountered an uncaring# enveloping cloud and a frost !ind% 'he rocks on the glacier !ere too cold to sit on# "ut neither our porters nor our tents !ere visi"le% (o# !ith the crack and rum"le from avalanches on )#***m peaks hidden " clouds# $ !aited%'he odds !ere against a trek to K2 Base Camp% As a +( citi,en# $ e-pected to circumvent Pakistan.s mortal fear of an $ndian !alking around on the !rong side of the (iachen Glacier% /o!ever# after (EA0 'eam (i- dispatched A""otta"ad.s infamous resident in 2*11# +( citi,ens appling for visas !ere "eing treated !ith even more suspicion%'here !ere logistical deterrents to the trip too2a notoriousl unpredicta"le 34&minute flight from $slama"ad to (kardu# having a 5eep on stand" for the 2*&hour road 5ourne instead# and finding a trust!orth team of porters !ho !ould "e our onl source of food# !ater and safet for t!o !eeks% 'here !ere also crucial pschological deterrents6 !as it safe to travel to northern Pakistan? Could $ reall take three !eeks off from !ork?Could $ even do it? 7ho !ould 5oin me on m decades&long dream to see K2?Earl e-plorations in the 7estern Ghats had led to treks in the /imalaa# !alking through rhododendron forests along !ell&trodden trails% 8ue to its inaccessi"ilit# fierce reputation# and the landmark&studded route# K2 Base Camp had al!as felt like the pinnacle of trekking achievement%After a 5eep&trek to /un,a in northern Pakistan# /illa (m !ife) thre! me a challenge6 9$f ou.re serious a"out training# and $ don.t mean 5ust ling in a s!imming pool# $.ll come !ith ou%:7ith this conditional green light# plans "egan to creak into realit% $ "egan to run up and do!n thestairs% (omeho!# the Pakistani consulate in ;e!