PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to the South Pacifi c ......... 2Map .................................. 415 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 14If You Like... ..................... 16Month by Month ............. 19Itineraries ........................ 22Which Island? ................. 26South Pacifi c Diving ....... 31Travel with Children ....... 37Countries at a Glance .... 39

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND SOUTH PACIFIC

South Pacifi c Today ....... 536History ............................. 538Environmental Issues .... 552Culture, Lifestyle & Religion ......................... 556Island Life ........................ 561Art & Infl uence ............... 567Coconuts & Kava ............ 571

South Paci c Today Mumblings Around the Kava Bowl The Paci c Islands are a varied bunch and in the ocean’s not all kava and cocktails. This region has a mindset all of iat once sleepy, stubborn and ingenious. Despite the is anlittle violence or danger, corruption is rife. Old customs conis an ers face a rapidly modernising world.

ou’ll hear mumblings about Fiji and the Solomon Is

SOLOMONISLANDS

SOUTHPACIFIC

population per

≈ 20 people

History The Great Polynesian Migration is one of the world’s yet mysterious historical events. Imagine families anchickens, dogs, pigs, vegies and the kids into canoes anunknown, empty blue. Then they found islands, lots of thtial navigation as well as now-forgotten methods of readtions, wave formations and bird ight patterns.

More than 3000 years after the people we now knsians and Polynesians dominated the Paci c, European achieved the marine technology to ‘discover’ these tro ithe late 1700s, explorer’s tales of the idyllic way of lifeof the landscapes turned the region into a dream desro e that, in many ways, retains the same allure todathe majority of Europeans who reached the South Pac1800s were sailors and traders who brou ht disease, al

The Dream The South Paci c is synonymous with paradise. This lofty reputation began when the rst European explorers re-turned to their home shores with tales of a heaven on earth, where the soil was fertile, life was simple and people were beauti-ful. And while these island nations have modernised since that time, their allure hasn’t changed. You’ll still nd the bluest waters, smiling bronzed locals in owery fabrics and humid, gardenia-scented air. But what’s most amazing is how refresh-ingly untainted by tourism most regions are. Blame it on their remoteness or the price of getting here but few people who fantasise about the South Paci c ever

actually go. This is a great gift to those who book a ticket to this magical place that generations have dreamed about.

Diversity Even the biggest geography bu s crinkle their brows when it comes to this many islands. On a map all those little dots look the same and their many-vowelled names get lost on the tongue. But get to know these places and you’ll nd diversity that would be tting for any expanse of this size. Yes, there are Polynesian nations and Melanesian nations but within these headings are myriad languages, customs, histories and landscapes that make each island unique. No, it’s not just a homog-

Remote, beautiful and culturally hospitable, these oft-dreamed-of islands are the place to enjoy the world’s whitest sands between your toes and its clearest waters at your doorstep.

Welcome to the South Paci c

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

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535GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see

It would take a lifetime to visit all of the vast South Pacific so chances are you’ll have to pick and choose. Most countries have regions that are ideal for families, romance, diving and culture so the trick is to see what else sparks your fancy. Like history? Try Easter Island or the Marquesas Islands of French Polynesia. Want to swim with whales? Head to Tonga or French Polynesia. Vegetarians and spicy food lovers will enjoy Fiji while meat eaters will revel in the South American beef on Easter

Easter Island History Outdoors Scenery

Open-Air Museum Easter Island is a mind-boggling open-air museum, with a wealth of pre-European archaeological re-mains, all shrouded with a palpable historical aura.

Outdoor Adventures Outdoorsy types will be in seventh heaven, with hik-ing, diving, cycling, snorkelling and horse riding widely available.

Dramatic Landscapes Hold on to your hat and lift your jaw o the oor as you stand on the

countries at a glance

and Welcomesgarland of owers is one of the most

imple yet beautiful o erings on the t and no one gives out more of these he people of the Paci c. Loudness rashness are out, subtle hospitality enuine goodwill are in. If they could ou the moon they would, so please ask for it. There’s a sel ess beauty

and welcomes that feels untainted by odern world. It doesn’t pour out with

re but rather comes out slowly and ally in return for a smile. Women from a m village on Tanna, Vanuatu, right

Archaeology & History Palm thatch doesn’t pre-serve well and missionaries destroyed anything Pagan or naughty, so archaeological remains are the exception rather than the rule. What’s left, however, is straight out of an Indiana Jones adven-ture. WWII bu s will also nd some happiness.

Marquesas Islands (French Polynesia) Giant moss-covered tiki ( d t t ) ( 406)

Hiking, Caves & Volcanoes Lava and limestone form conical or jagged peaks, caves of stalactites and stalagmites and other-worldly lava tubes cut by sub terranean rivers...and then there’s Vanuatu’s volcanoes. Hiking all of this is as taxing as it is thrilling. Tanna, Ambae, Ambrym (Vanuatu) Head to Tanna’s active volcano by 4WD, explore A b ’ t l k hik

Luxurious Retreats Opulence is hard wSouth Paci c. Evneeds to be imporcontrol and wee constant attention cyclone can wipe oof work in minuwhen it’s done riluxury can’t be bett St Régis (French PolyAn exclusive bubble welegance that lets the

k ( 389

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» Coconut palms overhang an AitCook Islands ( 222 )

I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -774 -9

9 781741 797749

99825

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south-pacific-5-cover.indd 2south-pacific-5-cover.indd 2 5/07/2012 10:39:41 AM5/07/2012 10:39:41 AM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Celeste Brash, Brett Atkinson, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Jayne D’Arcy,

Virginia Jealous, Craig McLachlan

S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A Np44

p346p196

p250

p60

p295

p145

p472

p316

CaledoniaNew

Easter Island(Rapa Nui)

Rarotonga & the Cook Islands

Samoa

Tahiti & FrenchPolynesiaFiji

SolomonIslands

Vanuatu

SamoaAmerican

Equator

Tropic of Capricorn

p430Tonga

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 576Transport ........................ 582Health .............................. 589Language ........................ 591Index ................................ 602Map Legend .................... 614

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

e health risk to travellers to e Paci c region is low. The lomon Islands and Vanuatu are the one serious health zard: malaria. Elsewhere

main danger is from mos-o-borne dengue fever.

ORE YOU GOning before depar-

arly for preexist-save trouble

ated letter b

in France, but remember to obtain the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) before leaving home.New Zealand Travellers You may have free access to public but not private facili-ties in the Cook Islands.

Required Vaccinations For all countries vaccina

taDavoma bor b

EoMeRiPoS

Health

PAGE

42

PAGE

575

526Other Pacifi c Islands

Look out for these icons:

Our author’s top recommendation

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

A green or sustainable option No payment

required

EASTER ISLAND(RAPA NUI) . . . . . . . . .44HANGA ROA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46PARQUE NACIONALRAPA NUI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

FIJI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60VITI LEVU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Nadi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Lautoka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77Southern Viti Levu & the Coral Coast . . . . . . . . .79Suva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Viti Levu’s Kings Road . . . . 96MAMANUCA GROUP . . . . . . 99South Sea Island . . . . . . . . 99Bounty Island . . . . . . . . . . . 99Beachcomber Island . . . . . 99Treasure Island . . . . . . . . . 100Vomo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Navini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Malololailai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Malolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102Castaway Island . . . . . . . . .103Mana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103Matamanoa . . . . . . . . . . . . .104Monuriki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104Tokoriki. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104Namotu & Tavarua . . . . . . .104YASAWA GROUP . . . . . . . . 105Kuata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105Wayasewa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105Waya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Naviti & Around . . . . . . . . .107Tavewa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108

Nacula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Nanuya Lailai . . . . . . . . . . .108Matacawalevu & Yaqeta . . 110Sawa-i-Lau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110OVALAU & THELOMAIVITI ISLANDS . . . . . .111Ovalau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Caqalai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Leleuvia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114VANUA LEVU . . . . . . . . . . . 115Savusavu & Around . . . . . . 115Namenalala . . . . . . . . . . . . .122Labasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122TAVEUNI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Waiyevo, Somosomo & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125Matei. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128KADAVU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132LAU GROUP . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Vanua Balavu . . . . . . . . . . .135ROTUMA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135

NEW CALEDONIA . . . 145GRANDE TERRE . . . . . . . . . 147Noumea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148Boulouparis . . . . . . . . . . . . .164La Foa & Around . . . . . . . . .164Bourail & Around . . . . . . . .166LOYALTY ISLANDS . . . . . . 172Maré . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173Lifou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Ouvéa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178ÎLE DES PINS . . . . . . . . . . . 181Vao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183

Kuto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184Baie d’Oro & Around . . . . .185

RAROTONGA & THE COOK ISLANDS . . . . 196RAROTONGA . . . . . . . . . . . 199Avarua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203AITUTAKI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221PALMERSTON . . . . . . . . . . 227’ATIU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228MA’UKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232MITIARO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234MANGAIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237NORTHERN GROUP . . . . .240Manihiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240Rakahanga . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240Penrhyn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240Pukapuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241Suwarrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241

SAMOA . . . . . . . . . . . 250’UPOLU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Apia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253Manono . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .273Apolima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .274SAVAI’I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Salelologa & the East Coast . . . . . . . .275

AMERICANSAMOA . . . . . . . . . . . .295TUTUILA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297MANU’A ISLANDS . . . . . . .308Ofu & Olosega . . . . . . . . . . 308Ta’u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

SOLOMON ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . 316GUADALCANAL . . . . . . . . .320Honiara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320CENTRAL PROVINCE . . . . 327Florida (Nggela) Islands . .327Savo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328WESTERN PROVINCE . . . . 328Marovo Lagoon . . . . . . . . . 328Munda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332Around WestNew Georgia . . . . . . . . . . . 333Gizo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333MALAITA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338Auki & Around . . . . . . . . . . 338Langa Langa Lagoon . . . . 340

TAHITI & FRENCH POLYNESIA . . . . . . . 346TAHITI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350Pape’ete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350Tahiti Iti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360MO’OREA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362HUAHINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371RA’IATEA & TAHA’A . . . . . . 376BORA BORA . . . . . . . . . . . .384MAUPITI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392TUAMOTU ISLANDS . . . . . 395Rangiroa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397Fakarava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .401Tikehau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403Manihi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405MARQUESAS ISLANDS . .406Nuku Hiva . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407

’Ua Huka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411’Ua Pou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .412Hiva Oa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .413Fatu Hiva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417THE AUSTRAL ISLANDS . . 417Rurutu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .418Tubuai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .418Raivavae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .418THE GAMBIER ARCHIPELAGO . . . . . . . . . . 418

TONGA . . . . . . . . . . . 430TONGATAPU . . . . . . . . . . . . 433Nuku’alofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434’EUA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .443HA’APAI GROUP . . . . . . . . .445Lifuka Group . . . . . . . . . . . 447VAVA’U GROUP . . . . . . . . . 451Neiafu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452Southern Vava’u Islands . . 459Eastern Vava’u Islands . . 460NIUA GROUP . . . . . . . . . . .460Niuatoputapu . . . . . . . . . . .461Tafahi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .461Niuafo’ou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .461

VANUATU . . . . . . . . . .472EFATE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476Port Vila & Around . . . . . . 476White Sands Beach . . . . . 486Eton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486Takara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487Siviri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487Havannah Harbour . . . . . . 487Nguna & Pele . . . . . . . . . . 488

EPI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .489TANNA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .490Mt Yasur & East Tanna . . 492MALEKULA . . . . . . . . . . . . .496The Dog’s Head . . . . . . . . 498Lakatoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 499Uripiv & Uri . . . . . . . . . . . . 499Lamap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500The Maskelynes . . . . . . . . 500AMBRYM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 501SANTO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .504Luganville & Around . . . . 505Ambae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .513REMOTE NORTHERN ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514Maewo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .514Gaua (Santa Maria) . . . . . .514Vanua Lava . . . . . . . . . . . . .514Motalava & Rah . . . . . . . . .514Torres Islands . . . . . . . . . . .514PENTECOST . . . . . . . . . . . . 515

OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . .526Niue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526Pitcairn Island . . . . . . . . . . .527Tokelau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529Tuvalu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530Wallis & Futuna . . . . . . . . . 532

S E A

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AtollFunafuti

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GROUP

Tongatapu

NorthIsland

KADAVU

SANTACRUZ

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Malaita

Tanna

Efate

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Bellona

Malekula

Espiritu Santo

Makira ISLANDS

ChoiseulBougainville

RennellGuadalcanal

Santa Isabel

ISLANDS

Grande Terre

LOYALTY

IslandNorfolk

IslandLord Howe

Erromango

GILBERTISLANDS

IslandSouth

Tropic of Capricorn

TUVALU

FIJI

FUTUNAWALLIS & SAMOA

TONGA

NAURU

ISLANDSSOLOMON

VANUATU

NEW

AUSTRALIA

CALEDONIA

ZEALANDNEW

KIRIBATI

New Caledonia

Fiji

Solomon IslandsDive on WWII ships

(p326)

Melanesian chic inNoumea (p148)

VanuatuClimb Mt Yasur, an

active volcano (p492)

Eat curry withyour kava (p61)

SamoaSleep in a traditional

(p269)

TongaSwim with humpback

whales (p452)

fale

› South Pacific

See Inset

O C E A NN O R T H P A C I F I C

S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N

S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N

(France)

A(USA)

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(Chile)

(UK)

(France)

E

PAPE'ETE

PAGOPAGO

HANGA ROA

AVARUA

APIA

this map are approximate.They are only to be used as a general

The external boundaries on

guide to the political boundaries.

International Date Line

moai

Same Scale as Main Map

140ºW150ºW

10ºS

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20ºN

30ºS

110ºW120ºW

140ºW150ºW

130ºW

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Easter Island

RarotongaCOOK ISLANDS

SOUTHERN

Island

ARCHIPELAGOGAMBIER

Mangareva

PitcairnIsland

Henderson

ISLANDSAUSTRAL

Rurutu

Equator

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Tropic of Capricorn

FRENCH POLYNESIA

COOKISLANDS

TOKELAU

SAMOAAMERICAN

KIRIBATI

POLYNESIAFRENCH ISLAND GROUP

PITCAIRN

NIUE

Easter IslandMajestic (p56)moai

American SamoaPaddle Pago Pago

Harbor (p303)

Tahiti & FrenchPolynesia

Uber-fast hip shaking (p357)

Rarotonga &the Cook Islands

Magical outer islands (p240)

500 miles1000 km0

0

Top Experiences ›

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERS

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9835th edition – October 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 774 9© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Celeste Brash Coordinating Author, Fiji, Samoa, American Samoa, Other Pacifi c Islands Celeste fi rst visited French Polynesia in 1991 and moved there in 1995. Her fi rst fi ve years were on a remote atoll and the next 10 on Tahiti. Throughout this time she’s travelled as far as New Zealand to the west, Easter Island and Pitcairn Island to the east and many places in between. Her award-winning travel stories have appeared in Travelers’ Tales books and her travel articles have appeared in

publications including the LA Times and Islands magazine. She’s written over 30 Lonely Planet guides but considers the South Pacifi c her speciality. She recently moved to Portland, Oregon, and often complains of the cold.

Brett Atkinson Rarotonga & the Cook Islands From his home in Auckland, Brett’s travelled to many of the island nations in his South Pacifi c backyard. For this extended research trip to the Cook Islands, he explored the underground caves of ’Atiu, scootered and snorkelled around Aitutaki, and uncovered local foodie treats at Rarotonga’s weekly market. Venturing to far-fl ung and friendly Ma’uke and Mitiaro were other absolute highlights. See www.brettt-atkinson.net for the

latest details of his travels and freelance writing.

Jean-Bernard Carillet Diving, Easter Island, Solomon Islands, Tahiti & French Polynesia Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a die-hard Polynesia lover and diving instructor. He has explored 28 islands in the fi ve archipelagos. On this trip he searched for the most idyllic motu, the best manta ray encounters, the most thrilling lagoon tours, the tastiest poisson cru, the most romantic spots and the best-value accommodation. Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely

Planet titles and writes for travel and dive magazines.

Jayne D’Arcy New Caledonia, Vanuatu Jayne started her travels with overland Asia trips, but has discovered that overland in the South Pacifi c can off er up similar diversity and excitement (with more French imports). Aside from the French infl uence, Jayne digs the coral reefs, astounding lagoons and serious Survivor opportu-nities that the area has in abundance. When she’s not researching for Lonely Planet (this is her 17th guide), Jayne writes for the Age in Victoria, Australia.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

Virginia Jealous Fiji Virginia lived, worked and travelled widely in the Pacifi c from 2004 to 2006, and contributed to Lonely Planet’s previous Fiji and South Pacific guides. Since then she’s been looking for a reason to go back, and was very happy to share a few kava sessions with old friends while shamelessly picking their brains about the current Fiji scene. She was also reassured to fi nd that, despite the vagaries of politics and economics, Fiji welcomes travellers as warmly as ever.

Craig McLachlan Tonga An island addict from way back, Craig has covered the islands of Greece to Okinawa to Tonga for Lonely Planet. His fi rst foray to Tonga was as a teenager when his father, an architect, designed a resort island in the kingdom and Craig experi-enced his fi rst kava session. He’s never looked back. A Kiwi who markets himself as a ‘freelance anything’, Craig has an MBA from the University of Hawai’i, speaks Japanese and has written several books. Check out www.craigmclachlan.com.

Itiner-ariesItineraries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

#•Yasawas

#•Mamanucas#•

NausoriHighlands

#_ SuvaPort Vila

#_Mt Yasur

Noumea

#_Pape'ete

#•Mo'orea

#•Bora Bora

#•Rarotonga

#•Aitutaki

FRENCHPOLYNESIAFIJIVANUATU

NEWCALEDONIA

NEW ZEALAND

COOKISLANDS

S O U T H P A C I F I C

O C E A N

É

É

É

É#•

#_

Two MonthsLe Grande TourItineraries/Le Grande Tour

Fly to Fiji, the South Pacifi c’s biggest hub and catch a boat to the Yasawas or Mamanucas where countless islets off er fantastic digs and brilliant beaches. Back on Viti Levu, take a bus to the Nausori Highlands to experience traditional Fiji and then go onto Suva, where shopping malls and markets coexist in a distinctly Pacifi c style.

Fly to Vanuatu to join a kava session in a nakamal (men’s clubhouse) around Port Vila and see Mt Yasur glow in the dark on a night visit to one of the world’s most accessible volcanoes. Your next stop will be Noumea, fronting the world’s second largest coral reef lagoon. Pacifi c cultures are showcased at the wonderful Tjibaou Cultural Centre and don’t miss an outrigger canoe (pirogue) trip around Île des Pins.

Keep saying bonjour for French Polynesia. Start with some hip-shaking nightlife in Pape’ete. Take the ferry to Mo’orea for hiking, snorkelling with stingrays and dolphin watching or fl y to Bora Bora to live it up with the jet-setters in an over-the-water bungalow.

Finish your trip with the fun nightlife and restaurants on Rarotonga and unwind by Aitutaki’s idyllic lagoon.

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FRENCHPOLYNESIA

NEW ZEALAND

FIJI

VANUATU

NEWCALEDONIA

GrandeTerre

SOLOMONISLANDS

SAMOA

AMERCIANSAMOA

COOKISLANDS

MarquesasIslands

Tuamotus

Pape'ete

Huahine;Raiatea;

Bora Bora

Suwarrow

RarotongaTONGA

Savusavu

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É

É

É

AUSTRALIA

#•

#•

#_#•

#_ #•Apia

Pago PagoHarbour

É

#•

#•#•

#•

#• Vava'uGroup

SOUTH PACIF IC OCEAN

SOUTH PACIF IC OCEAN

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#•

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Six MonthsSailing The South Pacifi cItineraries/Sailing The South Pacifi c

The southeast trade wind makes this trip fairly predictable if sailed westward out-side the December-to-March cyclone season. In fact the route is considered so easy by cruising standards that it’s been dubbed the ‘coconut milk run’. The Marquesas Islands are the targets after a stop at the Galapagos Islands or Hawai’i.

After the majestic peaks of the Marquesas where you can hopefully fi ll the coff ers with fruit, the barren but beautiful Tuamotus, the largest group of atolls in the world, are next. This is the time to put down your daiquiri and pay attention – this is known as the Dangerous Archipelago and it has wrecks on the reefs to prove it.

Pape’ete in Tahiti becomes the natural hub to switch crew, stock up on Hinano beer and get a fi x of civilisation. Cruising the Society Islands from here to the lagoons of Huahine, Raiatea and Bora Bora is a highlight, but an expensive one. Leaving Bora Bora, drop in on Suwarrow before deciding on Samoa, Rarotonga or Tonga.

Rarotonga is the closest stop from French Polynesia and the sailors who do stop here often cite it as one of their favourite stops. Pago Pago Harbor in American Samoa is a good place to restock and run errands in scenic surrounds while Apia in nearby Samoa is less organised but has a bit more soul. The jewel-like islands of the Vava’u Group in Tonga are hard to pass up.

Depending on your choice of hiding place during the cyclone season (many yachts head to New Zealand), you could extend the trip by exploring Fiji, including the favourite yachty anchorages at Savusavu, or casting off for French Melanesia and the never-ending lagoon around Grande Terre in New Caledonia. Vanuatu gets you to wilder terrain, including volcanoes and the culture that invented bungee jumping, which is only mild preparation for the numerous adventurous islands of the Solomon Islands.

23PLAN

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Huahine

#•

#_Apia

#_Pape'ete#•

#•Rarotonga

#•Aitutaki

FRENCHPOLYNESIA

SAMOA

NEW ZEALAND

COOKISLANDS

SOUTH PACIF IC

OCEAN

SOUTH PACIF IC

OCEAN

FIJI

TONGA

AMERICANSAMOA

Nuku'alofa

#•

Vava'uGroup

#•

#•

Ma'uke;'Atiu

Mangaia

#•Taveuni

UepiIsland

VonavonaLagoon

SuvaPort Vila

Noumea

VANUATU

NEW CALEDONIA

SOLOMONISLANDS

GizoMalaita

Nadi

GrandeTerre

#•

#•Mt Yasur

#_

#_

#•#•#•

#•#_

ÉÉ

É

É

ÉÉ

Polynesian OdysseyMelanesian Meander

One MonthPolynesian OdysseyItineraries/Polynesian Odyssey

Start in Apia, Samoa, to visit the dreamy Robert Louis Stevenson Museum before taking the bus or a car around ’Upolu and spend at least

one night on the beach in a traditional fale. Take the ferry to Savai’i to visit underground cave tunnels, lava fi elds and glowing white beaches before trying to fi nd the forest-engulfed and forgotten Pulemelei Mound, Polynesia’s largest ancient monument.

Fly to Nuku’alofa in the Kingdom of Tonga, via Fiji. See the Royal Palace (not open to commoners) on the way to lively Talamahu Market. Mu’a (Lapaha) is rich in archaeological ruins. Head to the Ha’apai Group for beachside living in a thatched fale or the Vava’u Group for active adventures like sea kayaking, surfi ng, caving and cycling.

You’ll also have to reach the Cook Islands’ capital Rarotonga via Fiji. Once in the Cooks, walk the cross-island track and snor-kel at sublime Muri Beach. Catch a plane to Aitutaki to see its exquisite lagoon. Explore the caves of the makatea islands of ’Atiu, Mangaia and Ma’uke.

Fly to Pape’ete, the chic capital of the French Pacifi c, and lastly squeeze in a visit to sleepy Huahine and the Polynesian spiritual capital of Raiatea.

One MonthMelanesian MeanderItineraries/Melanesian Meander

Start in Nadi and fl y to Taveuni for Fiji’s best hiking along the coast at Lavena then dive walls of willowing soft corals at the Rainbow Reef. Go

back to Viti Levu via cosmopolitan Suva and chow down at an Indo-Fijian curry house.

Next fl y to New Caledonia’s capital Noumea, which blends Melanesia with French chic. Classy restaurants and boutique shopping aside, don’t miss exploring the vast main island, Grande Terre, with its mangroves, silent forests and barren vistas.

Fly to Vanuatu’s colourful Port Vila with its rich English and French colonial history. Swim in the pools of Mele-Maat Cascades and have a few shells of kava before trying some of Port Vila’s restaurants and night-life. Go to see the active Mt Yasur volcano and take the two-day trek across Malekula’s Dog’s Head, past the cannibal site, caves and traditional villages. On to Pentecost where yam farmers invented bungee jumping. Then Espiritu Santo for world-class diving.

Ride a boat through the Solomon Islands’ stunning Vonavona Lagoon, snorkel or dive off Uepi Island and chill out in Gizo. Travel to Malaita where people summon sharks and live on artifi cial islands.

24

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UR TRIP ITIN

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RIES

TuamotuArchipelago

Apia

Pape'ete

Rarotonga

Aitutaki

FRENCHPOLYNESIA

SAMOA

COOKISLANDS

TONGA

AMERICANSAMOA

Kadavu

Yasawas

É

'Atiu

Mangaia

Vava'uIslands

Nuku'alofa

'Upolu;Aunu'u

RurutuRaivavae

S O U T H P A C I F I C

O C E A N

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#•

#•

#•

#•

#•#_Pago PagoHarbor

#•

#•

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Westside Island HopThe Wild East

Three weeksWestside Island Hop Itineraries/

It’s ridiculously easy to island hop the western central region of the South Pacifi c from Australia or New Zealand. Start with a week to

10 days in Fiji exploring the blissful small islands and beaches of the Yasawas before heading off the beaten path a few days to dive, hike and relax in an eco-responsible resort on Kadavu.

Fly to Tonga for the next fi ve days to a week, with a short stop in Nuku’alofa before heading for the Vava’u Islands for whale watching (between June and November) and kayaking to deserted beaches.

Spend the fi nal week or more in the Samoas, driving around ’Upolu for a few days to fi nd empty white-sand beaches and enjoying the friendly bustle of Apia. Spend the last two to three days around the glorious Pago Pago Harbor in Ameri-can Samoa, where tall mountains plunge to a mix of colonial architecture and fi shing industry humbleness. While here, make sure to visit the spectacularly placed traditional villages of remote north bays of the island as well as walking around the relaxing and near car-free isle of Aunu’u.

Three weeksThe Wild East Itineraries/The Wild East

This is an island galaxy far, far away, even from the rest of the South Pacifi c so while you’re here, make the most of it. First fl y to Rarotonga to swim

in the dreamy lagoon and hike the island’s many inland trails. Take a side trip either to kayak the nooks and crannies of Aitutaki’s turquoise lagoon, go birdwatching on ’Atiu or visit the mysterious limestone burial caves on Mangaia.

Take the short Air Tahiti fl ight to Pape’ete and quickly fl y out to either the Tuamotu Archipelago for diving, snorkel-ling and la vida coral atoll or to the Austral Islands: Rurutu for whale watching and cave exploration or Raivavae for traditional island culture, hiking and scenery to rival Bora Bora’s.

If you’re not ready for the adventure to end yet, continue your journey eastward with a long fl ight to Easter Island.

25PLAN

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