How to dispose and what to do with the packaging of paints and varnishes that are used in

industry, like thinners (nitro based) and other toxic material that is included in paint and

varnishes.

INTRODUCTION

Paints and varnishes are known to be quick-drying, colorful and abrasion-resistant (i.e. the ability

of a coating to resist degradation due to mechanical wears). These attractive properties

result from the use of a variety of different chemicals in the paints and varnishes during

their manufacturing and packaging. Some of these chemicals used have been found to have

adverse effects or could cause damage to human health and the environment when not

properly used, stored or disposed of.

The paint and varnishes from the manufacturing industry which is one of the major

chemical processing industries in the world have generated a major apprehension to the

environment and the ecosystem. The major environmental effects of paints and varnishes

are concerning their content of solvents and other chemicals. There is a need to encourage

manufacturers to use less of these substances, and to ensure proper environmental

management throughout the manufacturing process. Procurement of paints and varnishes is

classified as having a high environmental profile and some risk of developing world supply

chains.

Hazardous chemicals are used in the production of paints and varnishes mainly in four

key- components. And in the end it makes up a mixture of a wide range of chemicals which might

pose a risk to your health and the environment.

For example chemicals with hazardous properties like white spirit, toluene, and methylbenzene

are commonly used in organic solvents and easily evaporate into the indoor air.

Chlorinated paraffin’s, n-hexane, ethyl methyl ketoxime are used as additives and binders

to improve the performance of paints and varnishes, but besides harmful health effects, once

released into the environment cause harm to the ecosystems.

Hazardous chemicals are used as ingredients in paints and varnishes for the following purposes:

In resins or binders: main component that holds everything together forms the film and

helps to merge it with a surface. Mainly used binders are oils, alkyds, waxes.

In solvents: component which keeps the paint or varnish in liquid form until it is applied,

determines weather paint or varnish is water-based or solvent-based.

In pigments and fillers: determine the color and opacity of the product and its physical

properties.

As additives: different ingredients which are added in small amounts to provide specific

properties; also thickeners and fungicides.

The most important group of chemicals of concern in paints is called volatile organic compounds

(VOCs). They evaporate into the indoor air – you can smell them while painting – and when they

are inhaled may cause health problems. Other possibly hazardous chemicals have functions as

biocides, pigments or provide a specific surface like gloss, structure etc.

PAINTS

Paint is any liquid, liquefiable, or mastic composition which, after application to a substrate in a

thin layer, is converted to a solid film. It is most commonly used to protect color or

provide texture to objects. The figure below shows different paints used.

Generally, there are two types of paints, they include the following:

Water-based paints

Solvent-based paints

As their name indicates, solvent-based paints sometimes referred to as "oil-based" or

"alkyd" paints, contain a significantly higher level of organic solvents than water-based

paints. These solvents are responsible for the strong odour noticeable in buildings and places that

have been freshly painted. They are also potentially hazardous for both human health and

for the environment which is why concerted efforts are being made to reduce or remove their

presence in paints without negatively impacting on paint performance.

Water based paint is fast-drying paint containing pigment suspension in acrylic polymer

emulsion. These paints can be diluted with water, but become water-resistant when dry.

Depending on how much the paint is diluted (with water) or modified with acrylic gels, media, or

pastes, the finished acrylic painting can resemble a watercolor or an oil painting, or have its own

unique characteristics not attainable with other media. Today, due to the high alarm on

the effects of solvent based paints on the environment, water-based paints dominate and account

for roughly 80% of paints sold in the residential market.

Oil-based paints include enamels, varnishes, shellacs lacquers, stains and sealers. Water-based

paints are latex paints. There have been issues distinguishing between the two; however,

the clean up instructions for the paint can provide a major clue. If water can be used for cleanup,

then the paint is a water-based paint. If, however, the cleanup requires the use of solvents such as

paint thinner, then the paint is an oil-based paint. As a general rule, latex paints are identified by

words on the container label such as “Clean with soap and water”, “latex”, “vinyl”, “acrylic” or

“water-based.” Oil-based paints are identified by the use of words on the label such as “alkyd”,

“oil-based”, “urethane”, “epoxy”, “varnish”, “Clean up with mineral spirits or paint

thinners”, “contains petroleum distillates”, or “combustible: keep away from heat and flame.” If

the label has the word “combustible” on it, it is almost certainly an oil-based paint.

Because latex paints are water-based paints, they are not considered to be part of the

larger category of household hazardous waste, and generally do not need special handling

by the consumer or waste or disposal services after they have left their liquid state. Latex paint

should be distinguished from other products that are manufactured with latex that hold potential

allergy problems for some people. Latex paint is not manufactured with latex rubber,

which is the substance that provides the potential for allergic reaction. The word “latex” in

paint is an advertising word rather than a descriptive word. Latex paint is made from

polyvinyl material mixed with acrylic resin and does not contain any natural rubber.

Fifty years ago, virtually all paint was solvent-based. Today, advances in paint technology mean

that modern, water-based paints, often referred to as acrylic emulsions, are increasingly replacing

organic solvents across a broad range of paint applications and surface areas (and account for

80% of architectural paints). Legislation and proper disposal techniques are in place to support

this trend.

COMPONENTS OF PAINTS

Paints have been manufactured since prehistoric times, but until recently they were highly

expensive and thus were mainly used for artwork. It is only since the nineteenth century

that houses have commonly been painted. Today paints are used for coloring and protecting

many surfaces, including houses, cars, road markings and underground storage vessels. Each of

these different applications requires a different sort of paint and it is these differences in

composition that are accompanied by different chemicals used to manufacture them. The function

of organic solvents in paint relates to certain properties it brings – it facilitates the paint’s

application, it’s drying, and the formation of a regular paint film. During application and

drying, the solvent evaporates. Ideally a dry paint film no longer contains solvent. However

when they evaporate, these solvents release Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) into the

atmosphere, with a negative, toxic impact on the environment. These components have been

proven harmful to the environment and human health thus creating a hazardous nature of paints if

not well disposed. Paint is essentially composed of a binder, pigment and solvent.

Pigments

Pigments used in the manufacture of paints provide other properties to paints than just color and

hiding power. These not only give the paint its color and finish, but also serve to protect

the surface underneath from corrosion and weathering as well as helping to hold the paint

together. Both inorganic and organic substances are used, with the inorganic ones being in general

cheaper but with less clear colors. Special pigments can be used to give metallic finishes (for

example for car bodies), to be hard wearing (for road markings) etc. Anti-corrosive

pigments are a very important area of study. Steel is probably the metal most often

requiring protection against corrosion and the development of pigments to inhibit the

corrosion of steel has occupied chemists for many years. The anti-corrosive pigment which has

been used for many years in red lead, Pb3O4. In combination with linseed oil, red lead has

in the past been the standard anti- corrosive primer for iron and steel.

Unfortunately, red lead is toxic and much research has been, and is still being, carried

out worldwide to find anti-corrosive pigments which are as effective as red lead. Anti-

corrosive pigments for iron and steel commonly in use include zinc phosphate, zinc

chromate, zinc molybdate and barium metaborate, although alternatives to chromates are being

sought as they are toxic and environmentally hazardous.

Binders

The binder exists to hold the pigment to the surface. The binder is a polymeric substance, and is

either dissolved in the paint or suspended in it by emulsifiers.

Additives

Additives are ingredients that bring specific properties to the paint, such as mildew resistance,

reduced foaming, good flow, and even leveling. Thickeners control viscosity and how well the

paint flows when applied. They reduce paint spattering when you use a roller to apply it.

Surfactants stabilize the paint so it will not separate or become too thick to use. They also help

wet the surface being painted so the paint won't crawl (move about) when it is applied. Biocides

keep bacteria from growing in the paint, and mildew ides discourage mildew from growing on the

paint after it has been applied. Deformers break bubbles as they are formed in the paint --

especially important when rolling paint. Cosolvents are liquids additional to water that aid the

binder in forming a good film, help the liquid paint resist damage if frozen, and enhance

brushing properties, including flow and open time (the time the paint can be applied and worked

before it sets). Cosolvents are generally volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are

increasingly subject to controls today

Drying oils

These were used until the 1960's, and are natural oils that polymerise as they dry. They take a long

time to dry and have variable properties as the balance of oils varies from crop to crop.

Alkyd resins

Alkyd resins are the most common resins to be used in solvent-based paints. They are basically

polyesters and are used for both air-drying and heat-cured paints.

Vinyl and acrylic emulsions

These are emulsions in water and are the most common water-based binders for use in household

paint.

Epoxy resins

These resins are based on polymers containing the simple organic compound 'oxirane' (ethylene

oxide). A variety of other components are added to give a wide range of

properties. Polyurethanes are polymers of any ester of carbamic acid, H2N—CO2H.

Polyurethane-based paints are tough, durable films that retain their gloss and are easy to clean.

They are often used for painting aircraft.

Solvent

A solvent must be chosen that dries evenly, and in which the binder is soluble but not so soluble

that it won't polymerise. For emulsion paints the solvent is simply water, and for resin-

based paints a variety of organic compounds are used with the most common being mineral

turpentine.

Paints are often formulated with other mineral compounds included, which do not provide any

staining power or opacity. These are known as extenders and are a very important part of the

paint formulator's 'tool kit'. Extenders may be used to improve the application characteristics, as

"flatting agents" to provide flat or semi-gloss finishes, to prevent settlement of pigments

or provide better keying (sticking) properties for subsequent coatings.

Solvents are necessary to ensure an even mixing of the paint components and to make them easy

to apply. The solvents used differ with the way in which the paint will be applied as the drying

rate required differs depending on the manner of application, e.g. the solvents in spray X-

Polymers-D-Paints and Pigments-18 paints need to evaporate much more quickly than those in

brush-applied paints. In general, a blend of solvents is used to produce a paint that will surface

and through dry (i.e. dry throughout) at the correct rate without uneven shrinkage. White spirit

and mineral turpentine are probably the most widely used solvent.

VARNISHES

Varnish is a transparent, hard, protective finish or film primarily used in wood finishing but also

for other materials. Varnish is traditionally a combination of a drying oil, a resin, and a thinner or

solvent. Varnish finishes are usually glossy but may be designed to produce satin or semi-gloss

sheens by the addition of "flatting" agents. Varnish has little or no color, is transparent, and has no

added pigment, as opposed to paints or wood stains, which contain pigment and generally

range from opaque to translucent. Varnishes are also applied over wood stains as a final step to

achieve a film for gloss and protection. Some products are marketed as a combined stain

and varnish. The figure below shows different varnishes used.

After being applied, the film-forming substances in varnishes either harden directly, as soon as the

solvent has fully evaporated, or harden after evaporation of the solvent through certain curing

processes, primarily chemical reaction between oils and oxygen from the air (autoxidation) and

chemical reactions between components of the varnish. Resin varnishes "dry" by evaporation of

the solvent and harden almost immediately upon drying. Acrylic and waterborne varnishes "dry"

upon evaporation of the water but experience an extended curing period. Oil, polyurethane, and

epoxy varnishes remain liquid even after evaporation of the solvent but quickly begin to cure,

undergoing successive stages from liquid or syrupy, to tacky or sticky, to dry gummy, to "dry to

the touch", to hard.

Environmental factors such as heat and humidity play a very large role in the drying and curing

times of varnishes. In classic varnish the cure rate depends on the type of oil used and, to some

extent, on the ratio of oil to resin. The drying and curing time of all varnishes may be sped up by

exposure to an energy source such as sunlight, ultraviolet light, or heat. Many varnishes rely on

organic oils or resins for their binder in combination with organic solvents; these are

highly flammable in their liquid state. In addition, all drying oils, certain alkyds, and

many single- component polyurethanes produce heat during the curing process. Therefore, oil-

soaked rags and paper can smolder and ignite hours after use if they are bunched or piled

together, or, for example, placed in a container where the heat cannot dissipate.

COMPONENTS OF NARNISH

Drying oil

There are many different types of drying oils, including linseed oil, tung oil, and walnut

oil. These contain high levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids.

Resin

Resins that are used in varnishes include amber, kauri gum, dammar, copal, rosin (pine resin),

sandarac, balsam, elemi, mastic, and others. Shellac is also a resin. In the 1900s in Canada, resins

from local trees were used to finish pianos. As a result these now antique pianos are considered

difficult to refinish. However, shellac can be used over the existing resins provided

sufficient time is allowed for thin coats to cure. Thus the original finish can be returned to its

original lustre while preserving the color and age related crackle.

Solvent (traditionally Turpentine)

Traditionally, natural (organic) turpentine was used as the thinner or solvent, but has been

replaced by several mineral based turpentine substitutes such as white spirit or "paint thinner",

also known as "mineral spirit".

TYPES OF VARNISH

Alkyd varnish

Typically, modern commercially produced varnishes employ some form of alkyd for producing a

protective film. Alkyds are chemically modified vegetable oils which operate well in a

wide range of conditions and can be engineered to speed up the cure rate and thus harden faster.

Better (and more expensive) exterior varnishes employ alkyds made from high performance

oils and contain UV-absorbers; this improves gloss-retention and extends the lifetime of the

finish. Various resins may also be combined with alkyds as part of the formula for typical

"oil" Varnishes that are commercially available

Polyurethane varnish

Polyurethane varnishes are typically hard, abrasion-resistant, and durable coatings. They are

popular for hardwood floors but are considered by some wood finishers to be difficult or

unsuitable for finishing furniture or other detailed pieces. Polyurethanes are comparable in

hardness to certain alkyds but generally form a tougher film. Compared to simple oil or shellac

varnishes, polyurethane varnish forms a harder, decidedly tougher and more waterproof

film. However, a thick film of ordinary polyurethane may de-laminate if subjected to heat or

shock, fracturing the film and leaving white patches.

This tendency increases with long exposure to sunlight or when it is applied over soft woods like

pine. This is also in part due to polyurethane's lesser penetration into the wood. Various

priming techniques are employed to overcome this problem, including the use of certain

oil varnishes, specified "dewaxed" shellac, clear penetrating epoxy sealer, or "oil-

modified" polyurethane designed for the purpose. Polyurethane varnish may also lack the

"hand-rubbed" lustre of drying oils such as linseed or tung oil; in contrast, however, it is

capable of a much faster and higher "build" of film, accomplishing in two coats what may

require multiple applications of oil. Polyurethane may also be applied over a straight oil finish,

but because of the relatively slow curing time of oils, the emission of certain chemical byproducts,

and the need for exposure to oxygen from the air, care must be taken that the oils are sufficiently

cured to accept the polyurethane.

Lacquer varnish

The word lacquer refers to quick-drying, solvent-based varnishes or paints. Although their names

may be similarly derived, lacquer is not the same as shellac and is not dissolved in

alcohol. Lacquer is dissolved in lacquer thinner, which is a highly-flammable solvent typically

containing butyl acetate and xylene or toluene. Lacquer is typically sprayed on, within a spray

booth that evacuates overspray and minimizes the risk of combustion.

Outside America, the rule of thumb is that a clear wood finish formulated to be sprayed

is a lacquer but if it is formulated to be brushed on then it is a varnish. Thus, by far most pieces of

wooden furniture are lacquered.

Lacquer may be considered different from varnish because it can be re-dissolved later by

a solvent (such as the one it was dissolved in when it was applied) and does not chemically

change to a solid like other varnishes.

The difference between lacquer varnish and other varnishes

Although the differences between varnish and lacquer are fairly subtle, there are some contrasts

between the two that need to be pointed out. These differences will help you decide what type of

product to apply to a surface in order to achieve the best possible exterior finish.

Varnish is a clear, hard solution that is principally applied to wood to give it a glossy finish while

forming a protective film around it. Varnish consists of a resin, a drying oil and a thinner

or

solvent. Since varnishes have very little color, they can also be applied over a wood stain

to enhance the shine of the wood.

Lacquer varnish is a type of solvent-based product that is made by dissolving

nitrocellulose together with plasticizers and pigments in a mixture of volatile solvents. Lacquer

also contains a solution of shellac in alcohol that creates a synthetic coating, causing it to

form a high gloss surface. The name lacquer derives from the Portuguese name 'lac,'

which is a form of resin expelled from certain insects.

Aesthetic Differences between Varnish and Lacquer

Both other varnishes and lacquer provide shiny and glossy finishes to the surfaces of furniture and

fixtures. While lacquers can -come in clear or a colored coating, other varnishes tend to be

completely transparent and are rarely produced in any other color. Flatting agents are often

added to varnishes, which produce a semi-gloss or satin sheen finish, while lacquers are available

with many different sheen levels, ranging from high gloss to ultra matt. This allows you

to decide on a preferred finish.

Differences in Durability

While both other varnishes and lacquer varnishes produce hard and durable finishes, the

plasticizers put into lacquer give it a more hard-wearing finish than varnish. Some lacquers can

produce extremely hard finishes which not only look beautiful when painted onto woodwork, but

are also highly resistant to damage, particularly from acid, alkali, water and abrasions. Because

varnish is less durable, many people choose to use lacquer than varnish to finish

woodwork projects.

Differences in Application and Drying

Whilst the process of application is similar, varnish is usually brushed on and lacquer is normally

sprayed on. One of the main differences between varnish and lacquer is that the latter is much

quicker to dry. Lacquer, due to its evaporating solvents, will always dry on a surface

much quicker than varnish. As lacquer is naturally glossier than varnish, one coat is usually

sufficient, while varnish may require several coats.

Flammability

When lacquer is processed, it is dissolved in a highly flammable solvent that contains

toluene or butyl acetate and xylene. To minimize the risk of combustion, lacquer is usually

sprayed onto a surface inside a spray booth that vacates any over-spray. Varnish is much less

flammable and is typically brushed on. One way of knowing the difference between varnish and

lacquer is that if the product is prepared to be brushed on, it is usually varnish. If it is formulated

to be sprayed on, it is usually lacquer.

Different Uses

Essentially, both varnish and lacquer can be applied to wooden surfaces to give them a glossy

finish. However, because of the highly durable properties in lacquer, it also makes a good metal

finisher. Consequently, lacquer is often baked onto the inside of food and drink cans.

Acrylic varnish

Acrylic varnishes are typically water-borne varnishes with the lowest refractive index of

all finishes and high transparency. They resist yellowing. Acrylics have the advantage of

water clean-up and lack of solvent fumes, but typically do not penetrate into wood as well as oils.

They sometimes lack the brush ability and self-leveling qualities of solvent-based varnishes.

Generally they have good UV-resistance.

In the art world, varnishes offer dust-resistance and a harder surface than bare paint –

they sometimes have the benefit of ultraviolet light resistors, which help protect artwork from

fading in exposure to light. Acrylic varnish should be applied using an isolation coat (a

permanent, protective barrier between the painting and the varnish, preferably a soft, glossy gel

medium) to make varnish removal and overall conservation easier. Acrylic varnishes used for

such a final removable art protection layer are typically mineral-spirit based acrylic, rather than

water based.

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN WATER BASED AND NITRO BASED VARNISHES.

Water based varnishes have been developed over the last 15 years or so, as a response to

increasing sensitivity to health hazards and pollution. They are essentially a suspension.

They include acrylic (which makes them clear hard and brittle) and urethane (which makes

them tough, scratch resistant, and heat resistant) and use water as a solvent. Other chemicals are

used to improve flow, keep the solids in suspension, slow curing and flatten the surface.

The majority of water-based varnishes act as lacquers, as they cure by solvent evaporation. Like

other lacquers, they are composed of resins and solvents, the main solvent being water. To get the

resins compatible with water, other chemicals are used to create an emulsion, in which water is

essentially the carrier. These are called surfactants. The main one is glycol ether, which is

compatible both with water and the resins. The water evaporates after application, leaving the

resin and solvent (glycol) to fuse or 'cure' on the surface. Once the glycol evaporates, the resin

droplets form a smooth, hard finish.

The following are the major pros and cons of the water based varnishes:

Pros:

high in solid content for quick build up

fast drying

minimal solvent fumes

easy to clean up after use

very scuff resistant

non-yellowing

non fire hazard

less polluting

Cons:

bland appearance

application difficulties in humid weather

raises the wood grain

no better than other finishes in terms of heat, acid, water/humidity resistance

hard to remove if allowed to dry

easy to get 'witness lines' when polishing

finish sensitive to low temperatures when stored

Nitro based varnishes are a type of solvent-based products that are made by dissolving

nitrocellulose together with plasticizers and pigments in a mixture of volatile solvents.

Nitro based varnishes also contains a solution of shellac in alcohol that creates a synthetic

coating, causing it to form a high gloss surface. The name lacquer derives from the Portuguese

name 'lac,' which is a form of resin expelled from certain insects.

Water-based varnishes have four major formulations that determine the primary element in the

finish: (1) Acrylic; (2) Acrylic Urethane; (3) Urethane Acrylic; (4) Urethane. Generally,

the more water-based varnishes have, the more durable and harder the finish is (in contrast to

water- based finishes with high acrylic levels).

However, water-based varnishes with higher urethane levels typically require more

finishing expertise. In terms of visual effect, a water-based varnish generally yields a clear

finish that enhances or brightens the natural variations of hardwood and is normally applied

thinner than oil-based materials.

Oil-based varnishes typically yield hard finishes and have slower drying times than water-based

urethane finishes. They tend to give hardwood a "softer" appearance and lessen the contrast of

hardwood's natural variations. They are normally applied thicker than water-based materials.

EFFECTS OF PAINTS AND VARNISHES TO THE ENVIRONMENT

The paint and varnish manufacturing industry being one of the major chemical processing

industries in the world, a lot of concern has been raised on the packaging and various harmful

materials that are used together with paints that are harmful to both human beings and

the environment. The major environmental impacts of paints and varnishes are concerning

their content of solvents and other chemicals. There is a need to encourage manufacturers to use

less of these substances, and to ensure proper environmental management throughout

the manufacturing process. Procurement of paints and varnishes is classified as having a

high environmental profile and some risk of developing world supply chains.

The following figure shows the statistics of the use of paints and varnishes in various sectors.

Raw materials that are used to manufacture paints and varnishes include solvents,

pigments, dyes, and other chemicals. In addition, other raw materials are used to thin oil-based

paints and stains or to clean up the residues left behind, such as turpentine and mineral

spirits. These substances have been poised to be very harmful to the environment and

have caused various hazards to the environment Some of these paints and varnishes

contain petroleum-based by products of the oil industry these petroleum based chemicals

are also very harmful to the environment. The main uses of paints and varnishes are for

architectural use, industrial use and automotive use. Some paints can emit noxious gases such

as toluene and xylene, which are known carcinogens.

A fresh coat of paint or varnish can transform a drab room or piece of furniture into one that

looks brand new. However, care must be taken when disposing of unwanted or leftover coatings

because in California they are considered hazardous waste and must be disposed of properly.

This fact sheet describes oil-based (also known as solvent-based) coatings, such as paints, stains,

and varnishes, and their potential effects on the environment, and provides some practical ideas on

how to use and handle them properly.

Oil-based coatings contain resins, solvents, pigments, and additives. Some uses for these

coatings are for painting vehicles, furniture, and marine equipment, and for various household

purposes. These coatings are harmful to the environment because they contain petroleum

distillates and pigments.

Water-based (latex) paint is less harmful to the environment and your health than oil-based paint,

and should be used as a substitute whenever possible. Technological improvements to water-

based paints have greatly increased their durability and protection of surfaces.

Oil-based coatings can have adverse effects on your health if not used properly. If used in poorly

ventilated areas, the vapors from product can irritate eyes, skin, and lungs, causing headaches

and nausea. It can also contribute to respiratory problems, muscle weakness, and liver

and kidney damage. Oil-based coatings can also harm the environment if disposed of improperly.

If poured down a storm drain or sewer system, they have the potential to pollute our groundwater,

rivers, and streams.

VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOCs)

Solvent-based paints and varnishes are a source of potentially hazardous emissions called

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), a family of substances that easily evaporate into the air to

form invisible vapours. When evaporating, the solvents contained in paint and varnishes

emit VOCs into the atmosphere. A major source of man-made VOCs is coatings, especially paints

and protective coatings. Solvents are required to spread a protective or decorative

film. Approximately 12 billion liters of paints are produced annually.

The table below shows different percentages of emissions of VOCs from various paints

and varnishes.

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are emitted as gases from certain solids or liquids. VOCs

include a variety of chemicals, some of which may have short- and long-term adverse

health effects. Concentrations of many VOCs are consistently higher indoors (up to ten times

higher) than outdoors. VOCs are emitted by a wide array of products numbering in the

thousands. Examples include: paints and lacquers, paint strippers, cleaning supplies,

pesticides, building materials and furnishings, office equipment such as copiers and

printers, correction fluids and carbonless copy paper, graphics and craft materials including

glues and adhesives, permanent markers, and photographic solutions.

Organic chemicals are widely used as ingredients in household products. Paints, varnishes, and

wax all contain organic solvents, as do many cleaning, disinfecting, cosmetic, degreasing, and

hobby products. Fuels are made up of organic chemicals. All of these products can

release organic compounds while you are using them, and, to some degree, when they are stored.

Typical solvents are aliphatic hydrocarbons, ethyl acetate, glycol ethers, and acetone. Motivated

by cost, environmental concerns, and regulation, the paint and coating industries are increasingly

shifting toward aqueous solvents.VOCs react with oxygen in the presence of sunlight to

form ozone – "bad" ozone. “Good" ozone occurs naturally in the stratosphere about 10-35

kilometers above the ground, which protects the surface of the earth from harmful ultraviolet rays

and acts to protect plants, animals and humans from its various harmful effects. "Bad" ozone

occurs at ground level, forms through the chemical reaction between VOCs, oxygen and sunlight,

and is an irritant for the mucous membranes. It can also cause nose, eye, and throat irritations; and

can lead to shortness of breath, coughing, and asthmatic symptoms.

This "bad" lower-atmosphere ozone can also damage vegetation – plants, trees, bushes –

and such impacts negatively on those dependent on nature for their livelihood. This ozone also has

a corrosive effect on certain man-made materials: for example, it accelerates the deterioration and

fading of certain paints.

A further major consequence of VOC emissions is global warming – VOCs play a significant role

with respect to the creation of the greenhouse effect. Further, some chemically very stable VOCs

participate in the destruction of the stratospheric ozone layer (the "good ozone"): this is the

famous hole in the ozone layer.

HOW TO DSPOSE PAINTS AND VARNISHES USED IN INDUSTRIES

Simply because paint and varnishes are so common does not mean that they are without potential

hazard, however. Paint and varnishes contain many chemicals that can pose a hazard to people,

animals and the environment. However, proper handling, storage and disposal will eliminate any

risks. It is very, very important that paint and varnishes are never simply thrown into the trash or

poured down the drain, sanitary sewer or storm drain. Many of the chemicals that pose potential

hazards cannot be treated by sewage treatment or septic treatment systems. Those

chemicals

could end up in waterways, lakes, streams or the aquifers and cause long term contamination that

could find its way back into the drinking water supplies.

Trash that is picked up by waste haulers gets compacted, and compacting will inevitably damage

the container to the extent that it will no longer hold the paint. Landfills are constructed in such a

way that the paint can leach through the system and into the underlying aquifers. If the aquifer is

hydrologically connected to a stream or body of water, the chemicals will seep into those water

supplies. Waste haulers and landfill operators attempt to spot liquid paints and varnishes as they

service their clients, and will generally not accept liquid paint without special handling

arrangements having been made. It should go without saying that paint should never, never be

poured on the ground or into the street gutters to dispose of it. The following are various

strategies on how to safely store or dispose paints and varnishes:

Using up all the paint and varnish is considered to be the best strategy in disposing paints and

varnishes from industries. The paint and varnish is intended to be used, and if it can be

completely used up there is no disposal problem. Oil and nitro based paints and varnishes are

generally usable for as long as fifteen years. Latex paints, and water based paints and varnishes

can be stored as long as they have not been subjected to freezing and thawing, are

generally usable for up to ten years.

The first step is to purchase only the amount of paint and varnish that can be reasonably needed.

Almost all paint and varnish retailers have formulas for helping in the estimation of the amount of

paint that is reasonably needed for the job. Some people make the decision to buy larger

quantities of paint because gallons are usually cheaper than quarts. However, they do not take into

consideration that the excess paint and varnishes has to be stored efficiently or disposed in a god

manner to reduce effects on the environment.

If all of the paint and varnish cannot be used up, and you do not want to store it for a future use,

look for organizations to which it may be donated. Many civic groups that rehabilitate property

for senior citizens or lower income citizens will accept paint to be used on their projects. Latex

paints may be mixed with each other, and oil-based paints may be mixed with each

other. However, a word to the wise suggests that the colors should be compatible before the

mixing begins! Mixing various colors may provide you with a very soft and mellow color

of beige.

Advice from a paint retailer or manufacturer about what the resulting color will be is easy

to secure. And, it should be obvious that latex and oil-based paints should not be mixed together.

There are other community groups and organizations that might be in need of paint.

Many schools will accept paint for their drama and music departments. Those organizations

are constantly building sets and decorating for their productions. The same is true for

community theater repertoire companies. Many churches will accept donations of unused

paint for their programs and projects. And, please make sure that the paint that you are

donating does not contain lead or mercury that could pose potential hazards to the recipients of

the donation when they use it.

When properly stored, most paints and varnishes can last for several years. It’s only when one is

sure that the lid is sealed well, and then covers it with plastic wrap. The key to successful storage

is to turn the paint can upside down. The paint will create an even tighter seal around the lid,

which will keep it fresh until it is used again. The trick to storing paint so you can use it again is

to keep the air out. Another storage technique is to store leftover paint in a small jar (you don't

need much for touch-ups) and fill it completely to the top, before closing the jar with a tight lid

and covering it with plastic wrap.

Generally, paint that mixes smoothly when stirred can still be used. If it is an oil-based paint and

is thin, watery or contains lumps it may not be usable. If latex paint has been frozen, brush it on a

newspaper. If there are no lumps, it hasn't been damaged and can be used. If the latex paint is

thick and lumpy, it probably just needs some thinning and straining before it is applied.

Paint thinners, turpentine, mineral spirits, solvents, and other chemicals used for cleanup can be

stored and reused. The liquid should be allowed to sit in a closed container. The paint particles

that were introduced as part of the cleanup operations will settle to the bottom of the container.

You can then carefully pour off the clear liquid and use it. The residue left from the settling can

then be disposed of.

Because paint thinner is basically a petroleum-based solvent, it is considered a household

hazardous material. Therefore, the less you use the better. Paint thinner can be used many times

without losing its ability to clean paint from the paint brush. Let the used thinner settle for a few

days (a glass jar works nice for viewing, but handle with care). Pour the clear thinner on top into

a labeled container with a secure lid. This clear portion can be used over again for

cleaning brushes. The sediment that remains then can be dried out in the original container. It is

extremely flammable, however, and must be dried only in a well ventilated area away from open

flames. Make sure the sediment is completely dry and hard before sending it to the landfill.

If the pain and varnish cannot be entirely used up, properly stored or donated to other users, and

needs to be disposed of, there are some steps you should take to make sure that the

paint or varnish is properly prepared before disposal. The essential key to properly disposing of

unused paint and varnish is to get them out of their liquid state and into a solid state. The

rules and regulations for disposing of latex and oil-based paints may vary from community to

community or from state to state. You should verify the proper disposal techniques with

the appropriate regulatory authority for your community.

It should also be noted that these drying and disposal techniques are really intended for small

amounts of unused paints. Let your leftover latex paint air dry away from children and pets. One

method is to pour the latex paint into a paper box or bag that has had absorbent material such as

shredded newspaper or cat litter box filler added to the container to speed drying. Recycle the

empty can, and then throw the dried paint away with your normal trash.

Drying paint or varnish can take a long time, so be patient and diligent about checking it. The

drying process may take several days or weeks, and, in some cases, the drying process may take

up to a year. If the amount of paint or varnish is small, consider painting it on to newspapers or

cardboard to allow it to dry. These newspapers or cardboard can then be disposed of in

the normal manner. For larger amounts, pour a one-half inch to one-inch layer of paint or varnish

into a cardboard box lined with plastic. Allow the paint to dry one layer at a time--thin layers will

speed up drying. Or, mix paint with cat litter, sawdust or sand in a cardboard box lined with

plastic and let it dry.

It is preferable to allow the drying to occur outdoors in the open air (be sure to make it

inaccessible to children or animals). If, however, it is necessary to allow it to dry indoors, be sure

to provide adequate ventilation, and to keep the paint secured from children and pets. Adequate

ventilation is particularly important if the paint to be dried is oil-based. As oil-based paints dry

out, they release fumes from the chemicals and solvents in the paint, and these fumes are

potentially hazardous.

Whether the drying occurs indoors or outdoors, make certain that the paint in not close to any

potential heat or ignition source that could cause a fire.

It is likely that the drying paint or varnish will form a crust. The paint beneath this crust may still

be liquid, so it may be necessary to break the crust, stir the paint and let it continue to dry. Before

disposing of the paint, make certain that it has truly dried into a solid mass. Once the paint is

completely solidified, it can be disposed of in the trash. Waste haulers are trained to look

for liquid paints, so be sure to remove the container lid so that the hauler can verify that the paint

has solidified. As you check the contents to see if they have dried, be sure to remove any

rainwater or snow melt that may have accumulated in the container during the drying process.

If the paint is liquid, do not attempt to place it in the trash. Either allow it to dry or dispose of the

liquid paint through a household hazardous waste collection event that will accept liquid paint.

Some household hazardous waste programs will not accept latex paint because it is generally not

considered to be hazardous. In that case, you will need to revert to the drying techniques.

If the varnish or paint has come in an aerosol can, the best technique is to spray the paint onto

newspaper or cardboard, and allow it to thoroughly dry and then dispose of it with the trash. An

empty aerosol can may be recycled or placed in the trash. However, please do not

attempt to recycle or dispose of an aerosol can that still contains paint. Check with your local

waste hauler or household hazardous waste collection facility for proper disposal instructions.

The rules for disposal are generally the same for special kinds of paints and varnishes. Shellacs,

varnishes and paints with heavy metals may need to have special techniques used for their proper

disposal. Generally, this category of paints would include any paint that contains lead,

cobalt blue, cadmium or cobalt yellow. These ingredients are frequently found in automobile

paints and artist paints. Because they are solvent based, they should be considered

household hazardous material, and should be properly disposed of through a collection center or

event.

Steps to Reduce Exposure of paints and varnishes

Increased ventilation should be ensured when using paints and varnishes since they emit VOCs.

Meet or exceed any label precautions. Do not store opened containers of unused paints andsimilar materials within the school. Formaldehyde, one of the best known VOCs, is one of the few

indoor air pollutants that can be readily measured. Identify, and if possible, remove the

source. If not possible to remove, reduce exposure by using a sealant on all exposed surfaces of

paneling and other furnishings.

The paints and varnishes should be used according to manufacturer's directions.

Make sure there is provision of plenty of fresh air when using paints and varnishes.

Unused or little-used containers should be thrown away safely; and should be bought in

quantities that you will use soon.

Keep out of reach of children and pets.

Never mix paints and varnishes unless directed on the label.

Follow label instructions carefully

Potentially hazardous paints and varnishes often have warnings aimed at reducing exposure of the

user. For example, if a label says to use the product in a well-ventilated area, go outdoors or in

areas equipped with an exhaust fan to use it. Otherwise, windows should be open to provide the

maximum amount of outdoor air possible.

Throw away partially full containers of old or unneeded paints and varnishes safely

Because gases can leak even from closed containers, this single step could help lower

concentrations of organic chemicals in your home. (Be sure that materials you decide to keep are

stored not only in a well-ventilated area but are also safely out of reach of children.) Do

not simply toss these unwanted products in the garbage can. Find out if your local government or

any organization in your community sponsors special days for the collection of toxic household

wastes. If such days are available, use them to dispose of the unwanted containers safely. If no

such collection days are available, think about organizing one.

Keep exposure to emissions from paints and varnishes containing methylene chloride to a

minimum

Consumer products that contain methylene chloride include paints and varnishes.

Methylene chloride is known to cause cancer in animals. Also, methylene chloride is converted to

carbon monoxide in the body and can cause symptoms associated with exposure to carbon

monoxide. Carefully read the labels containing health hazard information and cautions on the

proper use of these products. Use products that contain methylene chloride outdoors when

possible; use indoors only if the area is well ventilated.

Keep exposure to benzene to a minimum

Benzene is a known human carcinogen. The main indoor sources of this chemical are

paint supplies, and varnishes emissions in attached homes and garages. Actions that will

reduce benzene exposure include providing for maximum ventilation during painting, and

discarding paint supplies and varnishes that will not be used immediately.

HOW MANUFACTURING COMPANIES CAN REDUCE THE TOXICITY OF PAINTS

AND VARNISH IN THEIR PACKAGING.

The main components of the manufacture process are synthesis in a reactor, filtration, blending

with other additives and packaging Paint related waste is often categorized as hazardous (special

waste) due to its chemical content.

Due to this the manufacturing companies have done the following to ensure the paint and varnish

produced is not harmful to the environment.

Limiting the amount of VOC allowed in all coating products and reducing these limits

over the coming years.

Introducing new and alternative products with lower VOC levels.

Introducing a labeling system to inform you of the VOC content of each decorative

products with their VOC content, however this is for regulatory purposes and will

not necessarily be obvious to consumers.)

A 5-band classification (often referred to as the 'globe') shows the VOC

content: Minimal; Low; Medium; High and Very high.

Giving advice on how to minimize the amount of waste coating generated, and how to re-

use or dispose of it safely.

Working with local authorities to encourage facilities for waste coatings collection.

CONCLUSION

Paints and varnishes are recognized to be major contributors to indoor air contamination

by volatile organic compounds (VOCs). The improvement of the quality of the environment

within buildings is a topic of increasing research and public interest. Legislation in preparation by

the European Commission may induce, in the near future, European Union Member States to

solicit the industries of paints, varnishes and flooring materials for taking measures, in order to

reduce the VOC emissions resulting from the use of their products.

Therefore, product characterization and information about the influence of environmental

parameters on the VOC emissions are fundamental for providing the basic scientific information

required to allow architects, engineers, builders, and building owners to provide a healthy

environment for building occupants. On the other hand, the producers of varnishes require this

information to introduce technological alterations, when necessary, in order to improve the

ecological quality of their products, and to make them more competitive.

Studies of VOC emissions from wet materials, like paints and varnishes, have usually been

porosity properties. However, in real indoor environments, these materials are applied on

substrates of a different nature. The influence of the substrate (uncoated cork parquet, eucalyptus

parquet without finishing and pine parquet with finishing) on the emissions of VOC from

a water-based varnish was also studied. For comparison purposes, polyester film (an inert

substrate) was used for both wet materials.

There is a pronounced movement worldwide to the development of high quality water thinnable

paints to supersede the current widely used organic solvent thinned paint. In the field of

household paints there are now emulsion paints that provide performance equal to that of

orthodox materials, but in the industrial paint field water thinnable paints are as yet only a minor

percentage of the paints in use. Organic solvents are derived from petroleum.

Many countries are reliant on expensive imported raw materials from which to produce

their solvents. Very few paint manufacturing countries lack water. In addition, organic

solvent vapours are atmospheric pollutants which in some cases can produce smog.