Why Go?Nearly 500 years ago, the Spanish were lured here by the region’s natural beauty, with robust rivers, stunning peaks and the promises of vast gold reserves. Though the gold ran out and colonies failed, the essence of Columbus’ first im-pression remains.

The Galápagos of Central America, the wildlife-rich Unesco World Heritage Site of Isla Coiba draws divers, bird-watchers and paradise seekers. Surf village Santa Catalina has become a destination in its own right. Hikes to water-falls and swimming holes around the highland village of Santa Fé offer an off-the-beaten-path retreat.

The isolated Caribbean coast of Veraguas will soon be ac-cessible by the Carretera de Caribe, a now half-constructed cross-peninsula road bound to change the future of the region and places on the way, like Santa Fé. In short, this deforested region of ranchers and subsistence farmers is re-defining itself. Tourism may help recast its fragile fortunes.

When to Go¨¨ Feb–Mar The best months to hit the world-class surf

breaks in Santa Catalina and along the Veraguas coast.

¨¨ Dec–Feb Three species of turtle nest on the beaches of Malena in Western Azuero Península; community volunteers guide these very off-the-beaten-path trips.

¨¨ Dec–Apr Dry season means the the best weather for the beach, but the May–Nov rainy season means waterfalls near highland Santa Fé are big – though trails may be muddy. In October many services are closed.

Veraguas ProvincePOP 227,00 / ELEV SEA LEVEL TO 3478M / AREA 10,050 SQ KM

Best Places to Eat¨¨ Anachoreo (p140)

¨¨ Chano’s Point (p145)

¨¨ La Panaderia (p145)

¨¨ Los Pibes (p145)

¨¨ La Buena Vida (p145)

Best Places to Stay¨¨ Hostal La Qhia (p140)

¨¨ Hibiscus Garden (p142)

¨¨ La Buena Vida (p143)

¨¨ Time Out (p144)

¨¨ Oasis Surf Camp (p144)

Santiago......................136San.Francisco..............137Santa.Fé.......................137las.Palmas.................. 141Santa.Catalina............. 141Parque.Nacional..Coiba...........................145Parque.Nacional..Cerro.Hoya.................. 151

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Veraguas Province Highlights1.Explore.the.astounding.natural.beauty.of.Parque Nacional Coiba.(p145),.above.or.below.the.water.line

2.Surf.some.seriously.sick.waves.at.Playa Santa Catalina (p141),.Panama’s.legendary.surf.spot

3.Retreat.to.the.highland.village.of.Santa Fé (p137),.famous.for.its.waterfalls,.steep.hills.and.lush.forests

4.visit.the.Iglesia San Francisco de Veraguas (p136),.one.of.the.best.examples.of.baroque.religious.art.and.architecture.in.the.Americas

5.get.inspired.off.the.beaten.path.with.a.retreat.to.the.crowd-free.Isla Gobernadora (p147)6.Adventure.to.the.Western Azuero Península (p148),.with.remote.coastal.appeal.and.community.turtle.tours.